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Eco labels
R.B.Chavan Department of Textile Technology
Indian Institute of TechnologyHauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
THE NEED FOR AN ECO-LABEL
Consumers concern for adverse impacts of industrial pollution on the environment health.
Mounting pressure on industry to adopt “eco-friendly” chemicals and manufacturing processes particularly in the textile sector.
Eco-labels that certify the “eco-friendliness” of the textile product are now increasingly demanded by consumers.
Currently, these are required mainly in Western Europe, with Germany being the most demanding
Removal of tariff barriers under the World Trade Organisation Agreement on Tariff and Trade in 2005,
Exporters facing more stringent environmental standards in the international marketplace.
Manufacturers wishing to protect their existing markets and expand into new ones may well be required to obtain an eco-label that is acceptable to their client.
Experience in developing country has shown that without an eco-label:
· some buyer preferences were being directed elsewhere;
· where this was not the case then the lack of an eco-label was used as leverage to negotiate prices down.
WHAT IS AN ECO-LABEL?
provides brief information on environment related product qualities. enables consumers to identify products that are • environmentally safe; • manufactured using eco-friendly materials and • do not contain chemicals that are harmful to the user. • “eco-friendliness” is an additional product quality, used for marketing and advertising purposes.
Generally these labels are voluntary and mostly used for the promotion of the products on the basis of their environmentally friendly characteristics.
In the case of textiles and clothing there are for the time being no labels which have been enforced by mandatory rules.
Criteria for eco labels
The criteria for the use of eco-labels is mostly based on the "cradle-to-grave" approach, i.e. the life-cycle analysis of the product.
1. Production of raw materials
2. Production of the end product
3. Packaging and transport of raw materials and the finished product
4. Use of the product by consumers
5. Disposal of the product
cradle-to-grave assessment of for example a T-shirt starts in the cotton field and ends in incinerator or natural biodegradation
In practice there are big differences between various eco-labelling schemes,
some of which are based on detailed analysis of the environmental impacts
some other systems may analyse only certain stages of the life-cycle.
Eco parameters
Eco labels are awarded on the basis of compliance of certain eco parameters by the product.
pH Formaldehyde Heavy metals (As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni, Hg) Pesticides Chlorinated phenols Dyestuffs (specific classifications) Chlorinated organic carriers Boicidal finishes Flame retardent finishes Colour fastness Emission of volatiles Odours
Different agencies will set their limit values for various eco parameters before awarding the license to the manufacturer to use their eco label on the product
comparison of norms/criteria stipulated for eco-lebelling of textiles
Eco-parameter
M.S.T
OTNOKOTEX 100
Clean Fashion
Steilmann Comitextil Indian eco-lable
Formaldehyde
Baby clothing 20 20 20 50 20 20
Close to skin 75 75 75 300 75 75
Outer Wear 300 300 300 300 300 300
Toxic pesticides
1 5 1 1 0.1-1 1
Pentachloro phenol
0.5 - 0.5 Ban 0.05-0.5 0.5
Heavy metals
Arsenic 0.1-0.2
0.1-0.2 0.1-0.2 0.1-0.2 0.1-0.2
Lead 0.04-0.8
0.04-0.8 0.04-0.8 0.04-0.8 0.04-0.8
Eco-parameter
M.S.T OTNOKOTEX 100
Clean Fashion
Steilmann
Comitextil
Indian eco-lable
Cadmium 0.005-0.1 0.005-0.1 0.005-0.1 0.005-0.1 0.005-0.1
Mercury 0.001-0.1 0.001-0.1 0.001-0.1 0.001-0.1 0.001-0.1
Copper 3-100 3-100 3-100 3-100 3-100
Cobalt 0.2-20 0.2-20 0.2-20 0.2-20 0.2-20
Zinc 5-100 5-100 5-100 5-100 5-100
Nickel 0.2-10 0.2-10 0.2-10 0.2-10 0.2-10
Azo dyes containing carcinogenic amine
Ban Ban Ban Ban Ban 50
Halogen carriers
Ban - - Ban Ban 200
Chlorine bleaching
- - - To avoid Ban -
BENEFITS OF ECO-LABELLING
Enhanced export market opportunities –
manufacturers and retailers of textile goods will come under increasing pressure to comply with the international eco-labels.
open worldwide competition beyond 2005, securing of an eco-label will greatly assist the manufacturers and retailers in enhancing the export market opportunities.
Improved product quality –
through the removal of substances in the fabric that may be harmful to the customer.
Financial savings – process optimisation and improvements that result in
saving of water, chemicals and energy. processing time RFT (Right First Time)
These benefits generally offset the incremental costs of using ecofriendly chemicals or of adopting a modified process
Improved environmental performance –
phasing out of toxic and hazardous substances conservation in water, energy and raw material usage.
This leads to a reduction in the quantities and pollution potential of various emissions.
Step towards ISO 14000 and ISO 9000 –
quality control procedures are an integral part of product eco-labelling,
easier to implement the ISO 14000 and ISO 9000 systems
Selection of appropriate Eco-label
Buyer requirements –
vary from country to country, influenced by
buyer preferenceconsumer preferences.Major export products –
eco-label certificates generally apply to specific product lines only. manufacturers first wish to focus on their main export product as any loss in market share, as a result of not having an eco-label, may lead to adverse financial impacts.
Ease of implementation –
select eco-labels where the criteria can be more readily achieved and sustained. Eco-labels based on final product quality may be easier to gain than those based on the full life cycle analysis,
which takes into consideration raw material use, environmental impacts of every stage of the manufacturing process (including wastewater characteristics, air pollution and solid waste disposal), worker health, use of child labour, packaging,
ECO-LABELLING SCHEMES
Organisations involved in Ecolabelling Schemes
Non-Governmental Organisations (NGOs) Good Environmental Choice (Sweden)
Institution RelatedÖko-Tex (EcoTex) 100 (Germany)
Öko -Tex (EcoTex) 1000 (Germany)
Company related Steilmann
Otto VersandHess Natur
Green Cotton
Government National
EKO-Seal (Holland)Environmental Choice (Canada)
Eco-Mark (Japan)Green Mark (China-Taiwan)
Eco-Mark (Korea),Environmental Labelling (China)
Eco-Mark (India).
National eco-labels are generally established by the respective National Standards Organisation or Ministry of Environment.
Multinational schemes are intended to facilitate trade within their common markets
Multinational EU-label
Nordic Eco-label
Blauer Engel – Germany (eco-label "Blue Angel"
Organization: UmweltbundesamtContact: Umweltbundesamt FG III 1.3Postfach 33 00 22D - 14191 Berlinnational label of Germany (1978); first national eco-label as product label in the world; responsibility: German Federal Environment Ministry; eco-label awarded by jury eco-label; product groups: consumer products, textiles and apparel: web: http://www.blauer-engel.de
Miljöval - Sweden (Falcon Mark - label of NGO)
Swedish Society for Nature Conservation,Good Environmental ChoiceBox 7005S – 402 31 Göteborgweb: http://www.snf.se/english.cfm
Coop Naturaline - Switzerland
company: Coop Naturelinecompany-owned label; entire textile chain; additional pollution testing by external labs and Coop quality safetytextiles made from cotton by controlled biological cultivation web: http://www5.coop.ch/naturaline/
AENOR-Medio Ambiente - Spain
Organization: Asociación Española de Normalización y Certificación (AENOR)Contact: AENORFernández de la Hoz, 52E- 28010 Madrid, Spain web: http://www.aenor.es
eco (Migros) - Switzerland company-owned label of Migros for health, environment and fair trade;products: eco-textiles, shoes and leather ware web: www.miosphere.ch
eco-tex - Germany contact: eco-tex – Institute for Applied Ecology GmbHGleueler Str. 373aD – 50935 Köln, Germany web: http://www.eco-tex.com
Green Cotton - Danmark company: Novotex A/s Ikast, Danmarkcompany-owned label earned six environment safety awards for products and production web: http://www.green-cotton.dk
Medi Ambient - Spain (Catalonia) (regional environmental label)
Organization: Regionale Regierung Katalonien/SpanienSeccció de Qualificació EcolňgicaServei de Recerca i Informació de Technologies NetesDirecció General de Qualitat AmbientalDepartment de Medi AmbientAv. Diagonal, 523-52508029 Barcelonaweb: http://www.upc.es/mediambient/indexeng.html
NF Environnement - France Contact:Association Francaise de Normalisation (AFNOR)NF-EnvironnementTour Europe, Cedex 7F 92049 Paris La Defense national label of France,founded by the French government and AFNOR (French standardisation organisation) in 1991;
textile and apparel: other product groups like washing and chemist´s articles; web: http://www.marque-nf.com/
Nordischer Rat "Weißer Schwan" – Scandinavia
Countries: Sweden, Norway, Finland, DenmarkContact: Swedish Standards Institution Finish Standards AssociationSIS Environmental Labelling SFSP.O. Box 6455 P.O. Box 116S – 11382 Stockholm FIN – 00241 HelsinkiStiftelesen Miljomerking i Norge Ministry of the EnvironmentKristian August Gate 5 P.O. Box 8080
Öko-Tex Standard 100 & 1000 Germany contact: Forschungsinstitut HohensteinSchloss HohensteinD 74357 Bönnigheim Öko-Tex standard 100 describes the human ecology of a product i.e. pieces of clothing are examined after strict requirements and limit values for pollutant quantities, skin compatibility or pH value. Öko-Tex standard 1000 examines production conditions according to environmental careful criteria as, energy, waste water, packaging, transport, conditions of work, environmental policy, protection of individuals, storekeeping etc . web: http://www.hohenstein.de
Produkt-Label "Körperverträgliche Textilien" - Germany (product label "body-wholesome textiles")
Contact: Fördergemeinschaft körperverträgliche Textilien e.V., DenkendorfKörschtalstraße 2673770 Denkendorf the German product label was established by an initative of Fördergemeinschaft körperverträgliche Textilien e.V. in July 2000; the Institute of Textile Technology and Process Engineering Denkendorf and the Dermatological Clinic of the University Hospital of Heidelberg developed a special test investigating the influence of textiles on human skin; this is a product label only for textiles web: http://www.koerpervertraegliche-textilien.de
Stichting Milieukeur - The Netherlands
Contact: The Stichting MilieukeurEisenhowerlaan 150 PO Box 17186 NL-2502 CD The Hagueweb: http://www.milieukeur.nl
Umweltzeichen "Bäume" - Austria (eco-Label - "Trees" )
Contact: UmweltministeriumSektion II Abt. 11/3 Stubenbastei 2A A- 1010 Wien national label of Austria, founded by the Ministry of Environment in 1991; textiles and apparel: , other product groups like wood and paper; web: http://www.umweltzeichen.at/
Cleaner and Greener - South Korea
Organization: Korean GovernmentContact:Korea Environmental Labelling Association (KELA)Paek, Young-Min, 1307 Leader’s Bldg. 1599-11Seocho-Dong, Seocho-Ku, Seoul, 137-070, Korea email: [email protected] web: http://www.kela.or.kr/english/
Eco Mark – India Organization: Minístry of Environment and Forests Contact: Central Pollution Control BoardParivesh Bhawan, CBD-cum-Office Complex, East Arjun NagarDelhi 110032IndiaTel.: 91-11-2224812Fax: 91-11-2511539national label of India, founded by the Minístry of Environment and Forests in 1991. textiles and apparel: certification of textiles is under process; homepage: English; short summary in German - click on SEETEX-Server, email: [email protected] web: http://envfor.nic.in/cpcb/ecomark/ecomark.html
Eco Mark - Japan Contact: Japan Environment AssociationOffice - Tranomon 1 Bldg. (5F), 1 - 5 - 8Totanomon, Minato-kuTokyo 105 Japan national label of Japan; founded by the Japanese Department for Environment in 1989;textile and apparel: unbleached clothing, towels and bedlinen, textiles from waste materials, shopping bags from fabric, textiles from used resins, nappies from fabric; web: http://www.eic.or.jp/jea/index-e.htmlweb: http://www.jeas.or.jp/ecomark/english/index.html
Environment 2000 - Simbabwe (label of NGO)
Organization:Environment 2000 FoundationContact: Environment 2000P.O. Box A639Avondale, HarareZimbabweemail: [email protected]
Environmental Choice - Australia
Contact: ANZECC SecretariatEnvironment AustraliaGPO Box 787CANBERRA ACT 2601web: http://www.ea.gov.au/index.html
Environmental Choice – Canada
Contact: Terra Choice Environmental Services2197 Riverside Drive, Suite 300Ottawa, Ontario, Canada K1H 7X3 national label of Canada; founded in 1988 by an initiative of the Ministry of Environment as the second national label of the world. "Terra Choice" is a privat organisation, who is responsible for carrying out and administration by order of the Ministry of environment. web: http://www.environmentalchoice.com/web: http://www.terrachoice.ca/
Environmental Choice - New Zealand
Organization: Environmental Choice New Zealand / Telarc NZContact: International Accreditation New Zealand (IANZ)Private Bag 28 908Remuera Auckland 1136Neuseeland web: http://www.mfe.govt.nz/web: http://www.ianz.govt.nz/ianz/index.htm
Global Ecolabelling Network – Canada country: ecolabelling organizationscontact: GEN Secretariat Terra Choice Environmental Services Inc.2781 Lancaster Road, Suite 400Ottawa, ON Canada K1B 1A7 e-mail [email protected]
or GEN General Affairs Office Japan Environment Association (JEA)Cosmos Aoyama 5-53-67, Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0001, Japanphone +81 3 3406 5155fax +81 3 3406 5190 email: [email protected]: http://www.gen.gr.jp/
Green Label - Hong Kong (Special Administrative Region) Organization:Green Council;Program: Green Labelemail: [email protected]: http://www.greencouncil.org/
Green Label – Israel Organization:Ministry of the Environment
Program:Green Label Programemail: [email protected] web: http://english.sviva.gov.il/Eng-site/About/about_frame.htm
Green Label – Singapur Organization: Government of SingaporeContact: Secretariat c/o Waste Minimisation Department40 scotts Road Environment Building#20-00 Singapore 0922SingaporeTel.: 65-731 9434Fax: 65-731 9749 email: [email protected] web: http://www.sec.org.sg/greenlabel_htm/greenlable_frameset.htm
Green Label – Thailand Organization: Thailand Business Council for Sustainable Development (TBCSD)Institution: GREEN LABEL BOARD (GLB)Thailand Environment Institute 210 Sukumvit 64, Bangchak Refinery Building 4 Prakanong, Bangkok 10260 Thailand email: [email protected]: http://www.tei.or.th/main.htm
Green Mark – Taiwan Organization: UMWELTSCHUTZBEHÖRDE (USB)Program: GREEN MARK PROGRAMMGCPCT/Industrial Technology Research Institute (ITRI)Bldg. 9 #195, Section 4, Chung Hsing RoadChutung, Hsinchu Taiwan, R.O.C.email: [email protected] web: http://www.greenmark.itri.org.tw/
Green Seal - United States (private environmental label)
Contact: Green Seal1730 Rhode Island Ave, NW Suite 1050Washington DC 20036 3101 USA private label of the United States; founded by a private organisation in 1989; textile and apparel: no certified product, but other product groups like wooden and paper products; homepage: English; short summary in German - click on SEETEX-Server email: [email protected] web: http://www.greenseal.org
Qualidade Ambiental - Brazil (environmental quality)
Organization: Associacao Brasileira de Normas Tecnicas (ABNT) email: [email protected]: http://www.abnt.org.br
Eco labels and products covered
Eco labels and products covered
Criteria and limit values of oko -Tex standard 100
Acid black 94 30336 Acid black 24 26370
List of institutions authorized to grant Oko-Tex 1000 certificate
Steps to achieve an eco label: Textile manufacture
A OR B
Simplified process flow diagram for Textile wet processing
Mill A
Mill B
Mill A
Mill B
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