Alka Panchal

PORTFOLIOALKA PANCHALDiploma 1st YearFASHION TECHNOLOGY

Project Report on

Women's Western Wear

Submitted to

Dezyne E’cole College

Towards the Partial Fulfillment for

Award of Diploma in Fashion Technology

As Technical Knowledge Development to

Women’s Wear

Included With Diploma Program Of

Fashion Technology

By

ALKA PANCHAL

Dezyne E’cole College Ajmer

Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer

Tel. no.0145 2624679

www.dezyneecole.com

2014-2015

http://www.dezyneecole.com/

The Project of Ms. Alka Panchal has been Checked & has been graded as

Dezyne E’cole College Civil Lines, Ajmer

www.dezyneecole.com

Thank youPrincipal(Seal &Signature)

http://www.dezyneecole.com/

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of tremendous value and enabled me to complete this project successfully.

I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’ cole who gave me an opportunity to show my abilities by working on this project on the esteem organization.

ALKA PANCHAL1ST Year diploma in Fashion Technology

1. Fashion as a Person’s Image

2. Fashion Industry

3. Learning Experience

4. Foundation Design

5. Corel Draw

6. Fashion illustration

7. Pattern Engineering

8. Measurement techniques

9. Draping

10.Fabric Manipulation

11.Element and Principle of Design

12.Trible Art

CONTENT

Fashion is a more then wearing good clothes it is about presenting a

person’s image in Society , we generally see people accepting fashion

due to pee pressure, Image in the society and when a person wants a

change to brighten his life. There are many reasons behind what we wear.

• Protection from cold ,rain and snow :- Mountain climbers wear high –

tech outwear to avoid frostbite and over – exposure.

• Physical attention :- Many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.

• Emotions :- we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when we’re

upset.

• Religious expression :- Orthodox Jewish men wear long part of their

body except their eyes.

• Identification and tradition :- Judges wear robes ,people in the military

wear uniform, brides wear long white dresses.

Fashion as a Person’s Image

Within the sphere of Technology Industries , design technology is

perhaps the fastest growing today. with new technologies emerging

rapidly and industries changing complexion, more and more job

opportunities are up for the taking .It is estimated that India will have

a shortfall of five lakh people in the design sector by 2010-11 but not all

gradates will be employable .Thus bringing the gap between talent and

the skills required by the industry is important. only Today, one in every

four designers is employable and only 10% of the design graduates

manage to get employment in the design industry. Hence the student

should understand the basic requirement of the industry and exhibit

that ability .

Fashion Industry

Learning Experience

This is what I learn here at Dezyne E’cole college creating fashion

doesn’t entail a vivid imagination and instinct for creativity. It also

involve many decisions and myriad techniques , focus on a central

idea. Dezyne E’cole Fashion design made me build a strong

foundation in terms of design sence, Conceptualisation

independent research ,creative application and artistic experience

As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through formal

education in Diploma programme in build with this study. During

the course duration of diploma programme I had an exposure

towards practical working in fashion design.

FOUNDATION DESIGN

COLOR INPACT IN DESIGN

Colour is a most vital tool in the hands of fashion designer. It is the most perceptible and hence is a central to success and failure of a designer scheme.it is therefore very important designer that a designer has a full knowledge and understanding of its tool

Warm and cool colors

Variation in Cool Color Blue

Variation in Cool Color Yellow

Variation in Cool Color Red

Comparing Value of Colors

The Yellow is lighter value then Red

The Blue is Darker value then Orange

The Green is lighter value then

Brown

The Dark Green is equal in the value to

the Brown

Compare the Blue and Red Rectangles to the Grey

Rectangles or either side of each color. Which Grey is equal

in value to the color ? It may be helpful to stand at a distance

and blur your eyes. If the edge between the two area

disappears, the values are equal.

Simultaneous Contrast

Corel Draw

GRADATION

MOVEMENTTHICKNESS

SPACING

MOVEMENT

ILLUSTRATION

COLLARS

Bertha deep neckline Bertha Tie

Bertha Buster Brown Style

Bertha Knotted Ends

Bertha Yoke style

Bertha - Braid Edge Trim

POCKETS

Bellow Cargo

Cargo front

KangarooFlap Shape Stitched

Patch Button Flap

SLEEVES

Layered Sleeve

Layered Sleeve

Tulip Sleeve

Bushirt Sleeve

Puff Sleeve

PATTERN ENGINEERING

Garment Construction

Fashion Designing runs the garment from eveningwear to sportswear,

Women’s wear to Men’s wear and Kids wear to knitwear. Garment

Construction is popularly called Pattern Engineering has a great

importance in fashion design industry. The Companies like van

heuson,dockers levis, adidas etc. are the providers of perfect fit and

this is what we learn at Dezyne E’cole through the art of pattern

making.

A slop pattern [ home sewing ] and block pattern [ industrial

production ] is custom – fitted basic pattern from which pattern for

many different styles can be developed.

The Draping method involves creating a Maslin mock up by pinning

fabric directly on a form then transferring the muslin outline and

makings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern it self.

The flat pattern Draping method is the most commonly used method in

Menswear.

Women’s basic bodices Block

Women’s Basic Sleeve Block

Saree Blouse

Kurrta

Belted Kalidar Salwar

Four Panel Petticoat

Six Panel Petticoat

Women’s Basic Bodice Block

Saree Blouse

Kameez

Churidar Payjama

Belted Kalidar Salwar

Patiyala Salwar

Four Panel Petticoat

Tools & Equipments

The Flat pattern method where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat

surface from measurements ,using the ruler and curve and straight

Edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools and measuring

devices to create a toil pattern on dummy.

Measuring Tape Seam Ripper Scissor

Drafting Scale Tailoring Chalk French curve

Pattern Making

Symbols

Various signs & symbol of Pattern Making Which I Generally use on pattern :-


Pattern Making

Symbols

Pattern Making

Symbols


Notches

Notches :- •Seam allowance •Center Line •Ease $ Gather Control •Dart Legs •Identification of Front & Back •Identification of Joining Parts •Zipper Placement •Facing •Hemline •Waistline •Shoulder Tip •Sleeve Cap

Punch / Circle :- •Dart intake •Corners •Buttons / Buttonholes •Trimmings •Pocket placement

Jog Seam :- A jog seam is used to indicate a change in the seam allowance. ¼ inch : •All faced areas •Narrow spacing •Extreme curve •Sleeveless armhole ½ inch : •Side seam •Waist line •Center line •Styline 1 inch : •Shoulder 2 inch : •Straight Hemline

LANDMARKS

Number refers to both front & back

wherever indicated :-

1. Center Front Neck

Center Back Neck

2. Center Front Waist

Center Back Waist

3. Bust Point

4. Center Bus Level

5. Center Front [Princess line]

Center Back [Princess line

6. Mid Armhole front

Mid Armhole Back

7. Shoulder Tip

8. Shoulder at Neck

9. Armhole Ridged or Roll Line

10.Plate Screw

11.Armhole Plate

Measurements

The flat- pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on the

flat surface measurement . Under garment construction we learn about

the measuring techniques on the dress form. That can be seen here:-

Different ways to taking measurements:-

• Circumference measurements

• Horizontal measurements

• Vertical measurements

Circumference measurements

Circumference Measurements

SIZE = 34

Round Bust measurement

Round Waist measurement

Round Abdomen measurement

Vertical Measurements

SIZE = 34

Front length Measurement

Shoulder Slope Measurement

Full length Measurement

Vertical Measurements

Horizontal Measurement

Horizontal Measurement

SIZE = 34

Across shoulder Measurement

Across Chest Measurement

Abdomen Arc Measurement

Dart Manipulation

Dart Manipulation is a slash spread and pivotal transfer making technique to transfer dart excess to one location to another for design variation .It is a beginning of pattern manipulation for generating design patterns. It require both artistic and technical skills to manage and control the pattern.

PRINCIPLE 1 One Dart Series Two Dart Series

A Dart may be transfer to any location around the pattern outlines from the designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit of the garment.

PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullnessTo increase garment to an amount greater then that provided by the dart excess of working pattern. The length and the width within the pattern’s outline must be increased.

PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring To fit the contour of the upper torso closer then the basic garment the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of the body above, below and between the bust mounds and shoulder blades.

SINGLE DART SERIES

French Dart

Front view

Side View

Back view

SINGLE DART SERIES

Mid Shoulder Dart

Front view Back view

Side View

Mid Armhole Dart


Side View

SINGLE DART SERIES

DOUBLE DART SERIES

Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart


Side View

DOUBLE DART SERIES

Mid Armhole and Waist Dart


Side View

DOUBLE DART SERIES

Side and Waist Dart


Side View

Tuck Dart


Side View

Pleat Dart


Side View

RADIATING DART

Neck Radiating Dart

Front view

Back view

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (Torso)


Side View

PRINCESS PANEL

Mid Armhole Princess Panel (Torso)


Side View

GATHERS

Gathers at Neck


Side View


Side View

FABRIC MANIPULATION

The Art of Manipulating

Fabric

For any Fashion Designer fabric first needs to be

prepared with textures and then used for style and

design development.

Style requires plain textures and sometimes textured

Fabric to be create better style.

Presenting few best ideas of textures which I learnt at

My study of Fashion Design at Dezyne E’cole College.

Fabric manipulation

Fabric manipulation

Fabric manipulation

Fabric manipulation

Fabric manipulation

Fabric manipulation

Fabric manipulation

Fabric manipulation

Fabric manipulation

Fabric manipulation

TRIBAL ART

Figures of African tribal dancersColours:- Warm coloursShapes:- Geometric shapes are used to create human figures

Lines:- Straight line curved lineShape:-Geometric shapesTribal peoples used those types motifs in there fabric pattern , Accessories, walls, Tattoos.

Portrait of a African women Tribal peoples wear heavy and colourful accessories for looks attractive.In there accessories mostly used straight lines and geometric shapes.