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18

HOW TODiagram No.of the outside.

REPAIR SHOESof the in-

2

shows the length

side of the divisions as

compared with those

Notice the long shank andof the

short ball.

Diagram No. 3 shows the outside

XD^V-g.

divisions

shape of

and the effect they have upon the Notice the short shank the shoe.ball.

and the long

19

HOW TOAlways remember

REPAIR SHOESthat the ball of a shoea shortis

longer on the outside having

shank.

The

ball

is

shorter on the inside having a

long shank.

Compare3.

outside

and inside

Diagrams 2 and

THE FRENCH HAMMER, WELTKNIFE

AND RHAN-FILEhas a round ball face.forit

The French hammer

Whenit is

heavy,

is

used

beating

andlight,

moulding thesuch

soles

in shape.

When

used for hammering in rounded placesas the

shank.is

The

Welt-knife

used for trimming thealong the welt (or,

upper surfacethe same

of the sole

the part next to the upper)

.

It is

sharpened

way

as the lip-knife.is

The

Rhan-file

used for smoothing sur-

face after the Welt-knife has

been used.

20

REPAIRINGTheheel, beingfirst

A

HEELunder theground,the

moreto

directlystrike

body and thegenerally wearsreason,

out

first.

For the above

much

care must be taken to see that

good leather and solid work is put into it. Pull oH the worn top-piece and see that what is left is hammered down solidly. NextI,

l(L.

3

yc^V^V

Y-^

46

HOW TO

REPAIR SHOES

THE BACKBONE STITCH

To make

the job strong and

at

the

same

time neat, the parts should be stitchedwith the Backbone Stitch.stitchfirst

downis

In making this2)

(See

Diagramthelining

No.of

the

place

whipped together, catching the materialto

through

upper.

This

is

done with one end and the stabbing-awl.

The

stitch

is

made

just

as

the

back

stitch

is

made, only

it is

put in across the broken place.

Be sure and keep the stitches straight across the place on the outside and the same length.After the place has been whipped together,the stitching

down is done. With the same end sew down the stitches. This is donethrough to the lining and pullingin the joint ofit

with the back stitch catching every otherstitch

down

broken placestitch

as

thoughasta-

you were driving theple. After pulling

down withthe

downtheoff

every other stitch gorest

back

and

catch

same way.

Whenplace

through cutlightly.

thread and beat the

down

47

48

SHOE LEATHERSwhich are most commonly made into leather for the purpose of making boots and shoes are taken from the steer, calf, horse, colt, goat, sheep, lamb and kangaroo.skins

The

Thesesuch

skins are called "hides," "kips" and

"skins."as

Thethe

skinssteer

from the larger animalsand horse, are called

"hides."

Skins which

come from

the half

grown

steer or

cow

are called "kips."as the

The

skins

from smaller animals suchand kid are simply called

goat, sheep

skins.

The skin of the steer is most generally made into sole leather. Whenever it is usedforit

upper

leather,

it is

split.

Splitting causes

to lose

muchis

of

its

durability.it

Calf skinrability.

not

split;

is

noted for

its

du-

Nothing better could be wished.is

This skin

tanned whole. used for soletexture

Skins from the horse and colt are also verystrong.leather.

Neither of these

is

Goat skins

are

uniform

in

and

strength, and are very generally used.49

For

HOW TOreal finefinest grained skinis

REPAIR SHOESis

work, the kid skin

used.

The

gotten from the kid be-

fore the animal has

had any food except that

gotten from

its

mother.is

Sheep skin

quite

spongy and pHable.a

This does not make such

strong leather.

Cheap gradessheep skin.

of soft shoes are

made from

makes a very fine grained leather if it is taken from the animal before After this age the skin it is one month old.skin

The lamb

begins to get coarse.

The kangarooalthoughit is

skin

makesIt

a

very toughbutlittle

and durable leather.

stretches

quite pliable.

Themostfor

animal

which

is

exposedto

to

theitself

weather most and which hasits

exert

living always

produces

a skin

of

superior quality.

50

PUTTING ONAsa

A CEMENT PATCHjob

rule,a

shoemakers consider cement andtryto

patching

hard

avoid

it.

Most

of the time they

would rather sew

a

patch and spoil the looks of the shoe thantake pains to prepare the patch properly for

cementing.

"^^Theveryfirst

step

is

to select a patchis

fromof so

the same material that the shoethat the fibers will cohere.

made

Next

see that the

part to be patched

is

clean and dry.

Tighten

the place with stretchers.

Now

proceed ac-

cording to diagrams.51

52

HOW TODiagram2.1.

REPAIR SHOES

Skive patch in shape desired,

bringing outer edges to

Lay patch over the

Diagram hole and mark placea feather.

with crayon;pencil.

make3.

cross

guide lines withoff

Diagram

Take

the

patch

and skive the shoe.

Diagram

4.

Put ce-

ment on patch and shoe; distribute evenly with small wooden paddle. (Note: Be sure and keep cement well corked. The thumb should be held over the mouth of the bottle while cement is being used.) Let the cement Diagram 5. turn white on shoe and patch.53

HOW TOWarmplace

REPAIR SHOES

patch and shoe with an even heat andtogether

Press firmly

making guide Unes meet. together all over and smooth

WJ

well with

warm

heel-burnisher.set well,

Diagram

6.

After patch has

sew

it

down

to sole

well back and trim off surplus leather.54

HALFSOLINGCutoff

A

SEWED SHOEpick out the old

old

soleoff all

and

stitches.

Cut

double soles next to the

welt and pull the middle sole from the outersole.

This

will leave the stitches out of the

middle

sole.

Test the weltat

all

around.it

If

found

to

be weak

any place,

should be

re-sewed.First,fit

on the

sole as

usual, having the

sole wellin.

moulded

to the shoe

and theit

filling

Trim

the sole, leaving

a little

widerthea

than the welt so that the edge can be worked

on without cutting the welt closershoe.

to

After trimmingfor

the

sole,

make

guide-line

cutting

the

channel

close

enough to the edge bed of the channelhole in the welt.that the channelstitches.is

of the sole to

throw the

directly

under the old

See

Diagram.to

Be surehide theis

deep enough

(Half the thickness of the sole

deep enough.)

When

the

bed

of the

channel

is

too far inin

and not directly under the old hole55

the

c/)

^

03

5!

6

HOW TOsite side of that

REPAIR SHOES

welt, the sole will be

drawn from the oppoon which you are sewing,

consequently, to sew the opposite side, thewelt will be drawn down, causing the shoe to

much narrower, and in most cases, to become much tighter. This one point has caused many shoemakers to lose customers. The work was neatly done by them, but thelookshoe wasleft

with a narrow welt and a very

uncomfortable feeling.

The

channel,

when

cut, generally

is

aboutsole.

1-8 inch

from the outer edge

of

the

This space between the edge and the channel will be covered by the guard of the edgeiron.

This guard

will

make an impression

whichto

will hide the channel.is

See that the weltsew.

moist before beginningstitches

When

sewing see that the

on the welt do not pull through, by pullingharder on the right-hand thread (the stitch

on the

sole)

.

See to

it

that the awl

is

smaller

than the two threads put together so thatthere will be a resistance

when

pulling

them

through.57

HOW TO

REPAIR SHOES

down the channel while the leather is yet moist. Some shoemakers use the bone to rub down theAfter the shoe has been sewed, rubstitchesin

the

channel before closingcausestheit

it.

This

operation

channel to bewill

forced so wide open thatclose.If

be hard to

the stitches are put directly in the

bed

of the

channel,

there will be no needclosing channel.

to rub

them down beforejob will notset

Theline

be complete until thethe shank-

edges are

up, shanks blacked;

and the

joint of the soles fudged.

Thestitch

stitches

must

also

be divided with thethe

divider or fudged to give the finish.

Black-

ing the shankspair job.

is

last

thing to do on a re-

It is

better to use a gloss polish.

Put

it

on

after everything else has

been done

sothatto dry.

youfar

will not

have to wait on the shoeof joint should the

Hownails

from the edge

be put?

How

long should an end be

for

sewing on the average halfsole?it is

Why

is

leather put in case before

used?

58

PREPARING AN INSOLE FOR SEWED SHOETheinsoleis

A

the

foundation of the shoe.forit,

When

selecting leatherin

much

careis

must be takenlight, firm

order to get material that

and

flexible.is

Light, because noit

surplus leather

wanted; firm, because

holds the whole shoe together,

and

flexible,

because the foot must haveas possible

as little resistance

whenit

a

person

is

walking.to the last

The

insole

is first

moulded

andat

fastened to

withit

as

many

nails as are neces-

sary to hold

properly in place.the ball, oneat

Two

the toe, two

at

the shank and

one

at

the heel.

(Some shoemakersat

use one

at the toe,

onethe

the

ball,

one

at

the

shank

and one

at

heel.)

Trim

the sole well in

shape by the outline of the bottom of thelast.

The width

of the

shank

will

be deter-

mined by the best judgment of the workman. Under the ball on the inside is always a placewhere much care must be taken.Itis

hereinsole

where one

is

most

likely to leave the

59

y^ .

,-'

'

'.

.1

Cv^Vo^V- V^^

;

,>,...,/,. r

/

^

.

^

/

',

^^

Qwctj-v- %\\o\>ydj^r-

60

HOW TOtoo wide.

REPAIR SHOES

In order to get this particular

place right, the sole will have to be

trimmed

underof the

just

a

little;

trim with the pointknife.

square-pointif

This particularlittle, will,

place,

not trimmed under just a

after the

shoe

is

finished, stand out

from un-

der the ball of the foot too much.

By

trim-

ming

it

under, the foot

is

thrown directlyThis

over the inside bottom of the shoe.particular pointis

explained more clearly into

the next book,

How

Bottom

a

Welted1-4

Shoe by Hand.

The

bar on the average shoeis

is

inch

wide; the shouldershank, whereit

the same except in the

is

madetheit

gradually wider inpoint might beleaves

order that the stitcheshidden.

at this

When

shoulder

theit

shank and

ball line

begins to widen untilit

reaches the middle of the shank, thengins to blend back toits

be-

1-4 inch width, end-

ing just 1-8 inch beyond the heel line.

See

diagrams

for

cutting the

bar and

shoulder.

After making the line for shoulabove,61

der

as instructed

make

a

horizontal

Cuv CD^

y

Q.D'\-

OUT

I'ieuel

./^~

J

.'-

SI

\^v

62

HOW TOcut in linehalf

REPAIR SHOESthicknessofa

the

the

sole;

make nexttaken out.lip-knife

a slanting cut so that

V

can bethe

This

V

will allow

the

lip of

to

run freely along the bar

when

taking out the shoulder.is

After the shoulder

cut out,

make

line for

your bar 1-4 inch

back.

Make

cut half the thickness of the sole;

make second

cut to take outto

V

and cut out

long enough bevel

allow the inseaming-

awl to pass through the bar easily andoutflat

come

on the shoulder.

After the bar and

shoulder are cut, punch the holes with the

inseaming-awl 1-4 inch apartginat

all

around.holesa

Belittle

the tip line to slant the

toward the center

(of toe) so that there

will

be plenty of room between the stitchespoint,

at this

and allow the holes on the outside

of

the bar to be 1-4 inch apart.

63

PATCHING

A

SHOE

AT THE

TIP

Often the desire tohastily causes the

mend the place broken workman to lose sight ofhis

the fact that the

wearer wantsit.

shoe to

look neat

when he wears

^V.

Patchingtipis

a

shoe whichif

is

broken

just at the

quite easily done

the

right steps are

taken.

The same

process

is

used generally

when

putting on cement patches.64

Before putting

a$

HOW TO

REPAIR SHOES

in the stretchers to tighten the place (in this

case) rip the tip loose so that

one end of thein

patch can be put under

as

shownas

Diagramin

No.

3.it

Fit the patch, cutting

shown

Dia-

gram No.andletit

1.

In this case, put on the patchafter

set,

which take outis

the

stretcher and push the part that

left to

go

under the

tip in its place.

See dotted linestip

showing patch stuck under

in

Diagramagain

No.

3.is

After this

done sew downto

tip

and

fasten patch to the sole.

Another wayfirst,

put on

cut the patch as

same patch shown in Diagramthis

is:

1.

Skive the edges.

Second,

ripas

the tip loosein

and push the piece under

shown

Diaat tip.

gramplace.

3.

Third, sew the patchputin

down

Fourth,

the

stretcher

and tightenpatch and

Lay patch back down over the upperlift

and rub crayon over it. Fifth, Apply cement. skive shoe.

66

HALFSOLINGShoemakers

A TURNEDdread

SHOEto

generally

attemptof

halfsoling turned sole shoes.

Many

them

know howtheir

but do not care to concentratedetails of fittingit

minds on the few smallsoles.

on thedoit

Others could do

and wouldbeingdis-

easily

if it

were not

for their

couraged by some other workman.ing turned sole shoescalls

Repair-

for accuracyat

andright

doing the righttime.

thing always

the

Leather thatbe firm andcase.

is

used for turned shoes shouldIt

flexible.

should be well instarted

The workis

should beto

whenand

there

ample time

sew on both

soles

turn the shoe back toit

its

right shape and put

on

a last before stopping.1

Diagram No.

shows the shoe with holesit is

in old soles before

repaired.

If

the shoeeither

has a cap, notches should beside of the old sole

made on

and the places marked onto getit

the

new

sole to

show how

(the cap)

straight

when

lasting the upper.67

Rip the old

HOW TOsole

REPAIR SHOESas far

from the upper

back

in the

shank

as the

new

sole

is

to

come; cut the threadsyet.

towards the old sole to avoid cutting the upper.

Donew

not cut off old solessole

Cutin

the

(which

is

to

be put on)Place

rough shape (Diagrampart in

2);

have the shank

the shape desired.

new

sole

on old

sole

and fastensole,

it

temporarily to old3.

sole as in

Diagram No.

Trim newit

sole

the shape of old

leaving

about one-

sixteenth of an inch larger so that there will

be something to work on

when

finishing

up the edge.

Diagram No. 3 shows new68

HOW TOsole fastened to old.

REPAIR SHOES

Make

guide lines across

the shank end of

new

sole,

extending them

equal distance on the old soles.

Makesole.

a line

on old

sole at

bottomjust

of

newto

These

lines will

show

where

place the

newcut.

sole after the bar

and channel have been

Diagram No.old sole cut off.

4.

shows the shoe with theold soleis

The

cut off oval

shaped oras

left

longer

in the

center of the lap

shownjust

in

is left

Diagram 4. The lap at the sides long enough to allow one stitch tobar of the old sole.

be made

in the

CUTTING THE BAR

AND CHANNELnewsole

Markshoulder.

the line around

for

the

Makeis, if

allowance for the one-sixallowed

teenth inch which wassole, that

on the newis

the shoulder on the old sole

three-sixteenths of an inch

wide;

make

the

new sole one-fourth of an inch wide. Do not make shoulder on new sole wider unless the new sole is wider thanshoulder of thethe old sole.

To

cut the shoulder see lesson on prepara69

HOW TOtion of an insole

REPAIR SHOES61.

on page

On

the turn soleis

after cutting the shoulder the

Va

not cut out

behind the bar; instead, maketurnit

channel and

back

so that

it

can be rubbed

downas

over the stitches.in the

Do

not punch the holes

new

soles;

these will be

madewill

you

sew; the old holes in the

upper

guide

you.

In some cases

it is

best not to use old

holes; the desire to

do an honest job andthatpart.

conditions will

govern

Underbe

normal conditions the

stitches

should

about one-fourth of an inch long.70

HOW TOSKIVING

REPAIR SHOESSOLEthe

AND FASTENING ON NEWcut on

After the bar has beensole, skive the old sole

new

not cut out theacross old sole at

down to a feather; do mark which was made the shank. The close linesthat

on lap

in

Diagram No. 4 show

the

lap

is

skived thin.its

Next, place the new sole on

old sole in

proper place, using the guide

lines to help;

mark

the outline of the lap of

old sole on the inside of the

gram No. gram No.

6 shows old sole7

new sole. on new sole.

DiaDiaof

shows new71

sole with outline

HOW TOlap of old sole

REPAIR SHOES

on

it.

The newis

sole

is

then

skived from the lines to the shank.

Skive asleft

much from newon old

sole as there

material

sole so that ato leave the

neat joint will be made.

Be sureat

newthe

sole thicknails

enoughto

the joint to holdit

which are

fasten

on.

After this place thesole

new

sole

back on the oldfastenit

(by guide lines) andthree nails.

at

the shank with9.

See

Diagram No.bar of

Fasten the bar of old sole to

new

sole

where they

join with a short

tack from the inside.

LASTING

AND SEWINGupper on the wrong

Pull the sole through the bottom of upperthatside.at toeis

loose and turn the

Pull the center of upper over the sole

and fasten with tack.pull the

Diagram No.at

10.tip

Nextlines

upper overit.

side

or

at

and fastenportions

Pull

it

over next betweenit.

the tip line and the joint and fasten

The

of

upper which are notstitches

fas-

tened must be evenly distributed while sewing.

Begin sewing about twothe upperis

below wherebackto-

ripped; bend the sole72

HOW TOwards the heelto

REPAIR SHOEStighten the

upper.

Benotget

very careful in crossing thepull stitch at this point tight

joint.

Doto

enough

upper out

of shape.

The bar determinesawl mustthe bar

the

shape of the shoe, therefore the upper mustlay close toit.

The

come

out

di-

rectly in the angle of

and shoulder.

After the shoesole

is

sewedItit

fasten the lap of old

down withNo.

the short flat-head tack.10.is

Seeaside

Diagramto dry,

then turned and

straightened.after

Put

on

a last

and

set

which the edges are prepared

and

set

up.73

LIST Of1 11

TOOLS NECESSARY TO HAVEHammer-

French HeavyPlain

$ .50.30.15 .15 .25

11

Square-Point Knife -----Lip Knife Eight-inch Rasp ------.

Hammer No.

-

-

-

-

.

1 1

Pair of Nippers

.25.25 .25

Welt-KnifePrier

111 11

Rhan-File --------Heel ------Bone -----SharpenerScratchBuffer

.10

.10

.10.15 .10 .10

Knife

11

Half Dozen Plain

Awl Handles

-

-

Pegging Awl Handle

$2.75

The

prices of these tools

addition of a set of good edge-irons

the above

list

will

make

a

change but h'ttle. With the and heel-burnishers, good kit for a shoemaker whostart

works

as a

journeyman.

To

a business,

lasts

and

jacks are necessary.

74