20th Century Era

8/13/2019 20th Century Era

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Edwardian era..

The period between1901-1910 is often calledthe Edwardian Era afterQueen Victoria's

successor, King EdwardVII. Sophisticates and theFrench also refer to thistime as La Belle Epoque,or "Beautiful Age.

It was an era of beautifulclothes and the peak ofluxury living.


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Social impact

world war I

In the early part of the decade, fashion was fairlysedate, but in 1914, World War I broke out. Theworld changed and by the end of the decade, sodid fashion.

The Great War (1914 to 1918) changed people'slives in dramatic ways. Men went off to fight inEurope and women were left at home to run thefactories.

As women's independence increased, so too didtheir levels of activity


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Inter-War Industrial Problems 1920 - 1940

Between 1920 and 1940 Britain was faced with industrialproblems. 19th century industrial techniques had alreadypeaked and were no longer appropriate in a competitiveworld.

British technology had been in decline since well before1914.

Post war Europe was in chaos and a return to theEmpire days of before simply did not happen.

The basic industries of ship building, coal and textilesnever recovered from the slump they were in at the endof 1920.


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Events.. and movements

San Francisco was devastated by an earthquakein 1906.

Events like the women's suffrage movement, the

roots of Prohibition, and the Great Influenzaepidemic of 1918 fundamentally changedAmerican society.

The RMS Titanic sank on her maiden voyage in

1912


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Influence on art..

Picasso was in his blue and pink period.

Fauvism, cubism, and other art movementsand renewed interest in Slavic / traditionalRussian folk art .

Frank Lloyd Wright's Arts & Crafts movementbegan to take hold.

Artists such as Mariano Fortunyin Italy and theWiener Werkstaettegroup in Austria continued

to design Aesthetic reform costumes such asFortuny's Delphos Dress, and dress becameprogressively more comfortable, practical andaesthetically pleasing in this whole era.
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Technological changes

Wright brothers were making aviation history.

The function of clothing was becoming more practicalespecially with the motorcar coming into vogue.

U.S. Rubber developed the first sneaker, called Keds, in

1917. The word "sneaker" was coined quite literallybecause the rubber sole made the shoe stealthy.

the first American plant began production of artificialsilk new fabric in 1910. In 1924 this fiber became knownas rayon.

Mass marketing meant that the wireless andgramophone soon reached ordinary households. Peoplebegan to make their own judgments listening toentertainment, music, news and current affairs.


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Theatre

During the years prior to World War 1, the theater wasa strong influence on fashion. The theater was alsoclosely linked with the art world. Many artists,including Picaso and Matisse, also designed costumesand sets for Diaghilev's ballets.

Photography reached a heyday and the first narrativefilm, 'The Great Train Robbery'(1903) was released.

silent films featuring stars such as Charlie Chaplin andMary Pickford were adored.

Ballets Russes - In 1909 the Ballets Russes, directedby Serge Diaghilev was established in Paris.

Cleopatre(Cleopatra) was the first ballet produced inParis by the Ballets Russes.

Scheherazadewas performed a year later and hadan instantaneous effect on haute couture.


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DRESSES..

By 1900 tailored and tailor madesuits were firmly established.Women entering a changing, morecommercial workplace found it auseful all purpose outfit.

Dresses took on a whole newdimension. Gone was the corsetedwaist and in its place was thehobble skirt that mimicked the"harem" skirts of the Middle East.

The vertical line became sopronounced after 1910 that highlyfashionable dresses tended tohobble the wearer.


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Clothes Styles during the First World War

1914-1918

All the changes that were forced on a rigid society were a direct result ofthe war. Women stopped wearing jewellery and lavish clothes.

The effect of war on fashion styles was that military braiding, belts withbuckles and shorter skirts were seen everywhere. Fashion history showsthat clothes got shorter during the First World War out of practical

necessity. In 1915 the hemline rose dramatically to mid calf, a height never beforereached. Waistlines were still quite high following the Directoire style. Butthe double layered skirts as if to compensate for the length had a fullertop skirt often like a mini crinoline, worn over a slimmer under skirt alsomade of the top skirt fabric. Such garments were often fur trimmed.

Bright colours faded from sight and only sober colours were worn as the

war dragged on. Everyone was affected by the death of a loved one and so subdued

dresses were simply a matter of good taste showing patriotism. By 1918the fuller top skirt had gone and the calf length long skirt remained.


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Women and War Work

Many women gave up domestic service work andworked. They drove trams and collected the fares, didadministrative tasks, lamp lighting, postal work, workedas chimney sweeps and nursed. Women did farm workworking as Land Girls.

They also served in the WAAC, the Navy, the RedCross and the Police began admitting women.

By 1917 over 700,000 women were employed to makemunitions, wearing a working uniform of blouse andpeg top trousers accessorised by scarves and fashion

items. As a recognition of their efforts it was laterreplaced by a uniform of khaki overalls and caps.

They had gained a new freedom working outside ofhomes with set hours and a comradeship and respectthat they relished.


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changes after world war I

Sportswear was increasing in popularity andsuch fashions were soon incorporated intoeveryday dress.

The fashionable man in the early 1910s wasseen wearing a one or three button cutawayfrock coat or the double breasted sack which is astraight lined jacket.

Boys and younger men wore three piece suitsfor dress, consisting of a coat, vest and kneepants which were tight fitting and usually madewith 'double knees'.


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cosmetics became a major industry. Glamourwas now an important fashion trend.

Women wore suits with long hemlines and

somewhat full skirts, often with belts at the waistof the jackets.

In 1927 when short skirts were all the rage,young women strove to show off their knees with

increasing abandon.


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Egyptian themes appeared in everything fromfurniture to clothing.

The late 1920s saw the adoption of two-toned

spectators for men, perfect with the popularknickers.

Travelling suits were also necessary since motorcars had come into vogue

Along with the ladies' traveling suits, loosetopcoats in leather were worn, or specialmotoring coats from Burberry or Aquascutum.


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Hats and gloves

By 1910 the enormous hat was fashionable.

Men's fashions continued a trend towardscasualness. The hat virtually disappeared in the

United States by 1960. Ties and trouser legswidened and narrowed, cuffs came and went,but men's clothing remained loose.

Although a variety of hats replaced the cloche of

the 1920s, both hats and gloves, at least in theUnited States, went completely out of fashion


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Hats and gloves

Washable kid gloves were always worn

with outdoor garments both in the winter

and the summer.

Fancy gloves were also made in suede

and silk and covered with fine embroidery.


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Shoes

Day shoes were typically boots. Evening shoes were

more diverse, with the popular style for women a court

shoe with a small, Louis heel. These were often

embellished with embroidery or metallic thread and glassor jet beading on the toes.

Evening boots were often made from soft kid or satin,

with rows of beaded straps embellishing the shin.

During 1910to 1920 ,Shoes and hosiery also becamemore exotic and colorful

Poiret commissioned the Perugia shoemakers to create

a line of Eastern-style jeweled slippers.


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Shoes..

Shoes and clothing were collected as part of the

war effort and people were encouraged to be

less frivolous.

Lace-up boots came back into fashion, valuednow for their practicality.

A variety of materials were used in shoe

construction, including leathers mixed with

colored canvas


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Hair

Many women had begun to cut their hair when doing war

work for practical reasons.

A compromise between long and short tresses was'Curtain' hair and was favoured by the genteel. Worn

with a band it could be dressed more prettily with a

feather at night.

Colouring the hair with Henna was popular as it was

less risky than using the unreliable chemical dyes of the

time, and it looked well with the oriental fashions.


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Fashion periodicals

The 1920s saw the emergence of three major

women's fashion magazines: Vogue, The

Queen, and Harper's Bazaar. Vogue was first

published in 1892, but its up-to-date fashioninformation did not have a marked impact on

women's desires for fashionable garments until

the 20's. These magazines provided mass

exposure for popular styles and fashions.


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Jazz

Prohibition, the proliferation of jazz, and thedevelopment of mass media were thehallmarks of the 1920s.

Evening dresses of the 1920s perfectly suitedfashionable dance such as the Shimmy, theCharleston and the Black Bottom.

The Rumba, Samba and Conga were all

popular dances in this period.


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Tango craze

Dancing was very popular and had a

great influence on 1920s fashion.

A famous American dancing couple

called the Castles helped spread the new

dance crazes and magazines showed

the steps of the latest dance, with a

graphic for each new movement.


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DESIGNERS

Paul Poiret, a popular designer of the time, is creditedwith this fashion movement heavily influenced byEastern design and colors.

The great fashion designer Gabrielle Chanel 1883-

1971self styled herself to be known as CocoChanel. By 1920 the silhouette of her clothing designshave come to be the epitome of 20's style. The workof other famous designers beside hers seemed oldfashioned and outmoded belonging as they did to the

pre World War One era.
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20th Century Era