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Forum Automotive Forum Step-By-Step Guide for Repair, How-To Automotive 4.3 5.0 5.7 Vortec Intake gasket replacement guide pictures directions and pic Thread: 4.3 5.0 5.7 Vortec Intake gasket replacement guide pictures directions and pic Today's Posts FAQ Calendar Community Forum Actions Quick Links Advanced Search Blown Head Gasket Repair The Strongest Repair Available Watch A Repair in Real Time www.Rxauto.com Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Get High Zinc Protection with VR1. Save $15 - Limited Time Only! valvolinevr1racingoil.com/Save$15 $30 Head Gasket Repair? Coolant compatible! Permanent Seal. Easy 3-Steps No flush, leave-it-in. www.Seal-A-Head.com/On-Sa Results 1 to 10 of 23 Page 1 of 3 2 3 Last 4.3 5.0 5.7 Vortec Intake gasket replacement guide pictures directions and pic If you need new or used automatic, manual and transfer case parts. Feel free to give me a shout. Send me a pm or email with questions on availability, price and shipping. Please include as much info as you can give about the part needed and its vehicle application. Along with your address for shipping. I can also line you up with rebuild units as well as rebuilt manuals and transfer cases. Autos are a build as needed only but many manuals and transfer cases are ready to ship. I except cash on pick up, pay pal, money order and postal check only. No personal or business checks. Thank you, Troy If you own a Vortec or know someone who does, chances are you have already dealt with the leaky plastic gaskets or will be dealing with them. The Vortec is an outstanding motor, but like everything else in the world, it does have some weak points. The plastic intake gaskets and crappy coolant quick connectors are some. I thought I would throw this on to help someone out if they plan to do their own repairs. I do two to three of these a month now. Although replacing them with the factory type plastic gaskets again will normally last the rest of the serviceable life of the vehicle, I always replace the gaskets with the upgraded Felpro pro pack. They are a rubber and steel combination and will insure a leak free repair and no unhappy returns. It also gives the customer a great peace of mind when they are shown what their gaskets are replaced with. Many get very worried about the plastic gaskets and the chance of them leaking again. Most of the pictures are taken from reassembly but should show a pretty good path of what is needed to be done. Join Date: Location: Posts: Thanked 272 Times in 172 Posts May 2010 {Mayberry} Kenyon, MN 1,280 twistedwrench XXX 4.3 5.0 5.7 Vortec Intake gasket replacement guide pictures directions and pic http://helpwrench.com/forums/showthread.php?6-4.3-5.0-5.7-Vortec-Intak... 1 of 37 7/25/2011 8:27 PM

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Forum Automotive Forum Step-By-Step Guide for Repair, How-To Automotive 4.3 5.0 5.7 Vortec Intake gasket replacement guide pictures directions and pic

Thread: 4.3 5.0 5.7 Vortec Intake gasket replacement guide pictures directions and pic

Today's Posts FAQ Calendar Community Forum Actions Quick Links Advanced Search

Blown Head Gasket Repair The Strongest Repair Available Watch A Repair in Real Time www.Rxauto.com

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil Get High Zinc Protection with VR1. Save $15 - Limited Time Only! valvolinevr1racingoil.com/Save$15

$30 Head Gasket Repair? Coolant compatible! Permanent Seal. Easy 3-Steps No flush, leave-it-in. www.Seal-A-Head.com/On-Sa

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4.3 5.0 5.7 Vortec Intake gasket replacement guide pictures directions and pic

If you need new or used automatic, manual and transfer case parts. Feel free to give me a shout. Send me apm or email with questions on availability, price and shipping. Please include as much info as you can giveabout the part needed and its vehicle application. Along with your address for shipping.I can also line you up with rebuild units as well as rebuilt manuals and transfer cases.Autos are a build as needed only but many manuals and transfer cases are ready to ship.I except cash on pick up, pay pal, money order and postal check only. No personal or business checks.Thank you, Troy

If you own a Vortec or know someone who does, chances are you have already dealt with the leaky plastic gaskets or will bedealing with them. The Vortec is an outstanding motor, but like everything else in the world, it does have some weak points. Theplastic intake gaskets and crappy coolant quick connectors are some. I thought I would throw this on to help someone out if theyplan to do their own repairs. I do two to three of these a month now. Although replacing them with the factory type plasticgaskets again will normally last the rest of the serviceable life of the vehicle, I always replace the gaskets with the upgradedFelpro pro pack. They are a rubber and steel combination and will insure a leak free repair and no unhappy returns. It also givesthe customer a great peace of mind when they are shown what their gaskets are replaced with. Many get very worried about theplastic gaskets and the chance of them leaking again. Most of the pictures are taken from reassembly but should show a prettygood path of what is needed to be done.

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Parts used in this procedure are:- Felpro Pro pack upper and lower install kit. The kit comes with one valve cover gasket, this is all that is needed to be removedto gain access but whenever I do these I always replace the second cover anyways. It just makes sense to do the other side aslong as you are already down in there. So another single valve cover gasket is purchased and added to the parts list.- Egr gasket. Not needed but helps speed things up to gain access to coolant hose clamps and allows you to submerge the intakewhen cleaning,- New t-stat and gasket, again not needed but cheap insurance and better cleaning.- New water pump to heater hose formed hose and water pump to intake formed hose. Again not needed but cheap insurance andI have found that they are prone to future leaking when disturbed from original.- New distributor cap and rotor. Sometimes not needed as long as they are in good condition and are removed without damage.DO NOT buy a cheap cap to replace it with. The vortec computer timing is extremely touchy and cheap caps are prone tononadjustable timing limits, misfiring and cracking.- New coolant quick connector or a standard water outlet to replace it with.- Shop towels- Brake cleaner or some other fast drying no residue parts cleaner.- Pipe dope, liquid pipe sealer NOT pipe tape- Penetrating oil. I prefer blaster.- Coolant.The way I do things is the way I do things. Some may have a different way and that’s fine. Many will have their own way ofrepairing or tricks that work for them. I am showing the way I do it and have worked very successful for me time and time again.Feel free to ask any questions and I will try and help the best I can, when I can. If you know anything that should be added alsoplease feel free to chime in.

Start by removing the negative battery cable. Remove the upper fan shroud, three bolts on top and 4 more on the lower lip halfway down the shroud on both sides. This repair can be done with the shroud left on but I like to have room and get it out of myway.

Place a drain pan or two…lol seems the coolant likes to drain in a couple of places as it finds its way out. If you are working on anewer vortec like 2001 you find a nice little drain hose attached that you just turn down and aim. The older ones are a pain toget to sometimes and no room to add a drain hose, just open and play catch. If you hate neighbor’s dog make sure to show itwhere the coolant is draining. Lol j/k

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Before going any father, grab an air nozzle if you have one available and blow off the sides, front and back of the intake well toremove any crap that may want to fall in when the intake is pulled. I have found that Mickey and his family love to build theirnest behind the intake and under the distributor. About 50% of the intakes I do have mouse nests on the back side not tomention under the filter in the air box.Remove the belt, remove the idler pulley. Removing the pulley will allow better access to the hoses.

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Start disconnecting all the wiring connectors to sensors, ect. Unsnap the wiring harness clampsRemove the wiring from the alternator, one main wire at the back and one connector on the side. Unbolt the two alternatorretaining bolts and set the alternator to the side. Most of the time it will be necessary to pry the alternator out of the bracket.Spray the alternator bushing with penetrating oil and let them soak. Before reinstalling again, carefully tap the bushings back a

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little ways to allow the alternator to go back in easily. DO NOT hit them hard or without penetrating oil. Trust me; they will snapthe bracket right off. (At least I hear they will…lol)

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Remove the four retaining bolts from the AC compressor and one bolt down next to thecompressor that holds the throttle cable bracket. Remove the throttle cable ends from thethrottle body. Remove the one bolt and one nut that retain the throttle cable to throttlebody bracket. Set the throttle cable off to the side. Carefully lift the AC compressor andlines off to the passenger side inner fender and secure with a strap or something to hold itin place. If you don’t get in a hurry you will not break the seals or lose any Freon. Theonly times I drain the system and remove the hoses are on the 2000 and up 4.3 vortec.The hoses do not like to bend out of the way.

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#3

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Remove the AC and power steering bracket retaining bolts from the front. 2 bolts on top,one nut and one bolt down low. Take a pry bar and gently pry the bracket out just farenough to allow access to the front intake bolt and enough room to remove and installintake. If you don’t feel comfortable dong this, remove the AC and pump bracket alltogether. I have done too many to remember by just prying the bracket forward a little,far enough to just clear and have never had a problem.

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Carefully push in the white plastic snap connector on the evap line and remove fromfitting. The line can be set aside when you lift the harness up. If you do end up breakingthe connector for the evap line. You will have to replace the entire line from the dealer orreplace or patch it with a good hose. Just make sure it is clamped good and vacuum tight.

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It will trip a service code if not. I have replaced them entirely with rubber hose before.Place two bungee straps, one hooked to each side of the hood and attach them as shownin other pictures to hold your harness up and out of the way. Take it easy when doing this.The wiring has spent years of service and you want it to continue that way. Don’t juststart yanking on them. Treat them with care.

Remove the egr to intake tube and one retaining bolt at the back side of intake holdingtube in place. A little penetrating oil will help with the fitting. Most come out easily.Carefully bend the tube over just enough to clear the intake.

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Remove the two wiring support brackets from the drivers side if intake.

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Remove the two nuts holding the wiring support that is next to the coil on the passengerside rear of the intake. Bend the support up and back to gain access to the coil retailingbolts. Remove the coil bolts and coil wire and remove the coil and set aside. Remove theplug wires from the distributor cap. If you turn them while pulling they will come off. Ifyou pull at an angle they will snap the cap towers and the cap will have to be replaced.The broken parts can be removed from the coil wires with pliers.Using torx driver, remove the two distributor cap screws. If one screw won’t come outand is damaged, pick up a wrench and throw it at someone walking past. LolDon’t worry, pry the cap up and towards the side that is stuck and snap the cap off. Whenthe distributor is out you can crack the rest of the plastic around the screw and remove itwith a small vice grips. If both screws are junk, throw another wrench, remember if youhit someone just right with your flying wrench, you will knock them out cold for a fewseconds, allowing you time to retrieve your wrench and go back to work before theywake up and realize what hit them. LolNo really if both are junk, drill a few holes in the top of the cap until you can break it upinto pieces. Be careful drilling so that you just drill into the cap and nothing else. Whenthe distributor is out, you can continue to crack the plastic around the screws and turnthem out with a vice grips. I have had to do this many times from someone working onthe vehicle before and not using the correct size torx.

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#5

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Once the cap is off, take a marker and mark on the firewall where the center of the pluginfor the distributor is facing. Also notice where the front screw retainer is located inlinewith the rear intake bolt. Mark on the intake or firewall also exactly where the rotor isfacing. You will need this when reinstalling. It also doesn’t hurt to rotate the engine byhand into tdc before pulling the distributor.Loosen the distributor lock blot and remove the distributor from the engine and place tothe side.Relieve the fuel pressure from the test port on the fuel line. Remove the rear lineretaining bolt located down between the lines at the back of the intake as shown in thepicture. Remove the two line holding nuts from the injection unit and pull up on the lines.Watch for the little plastic retainers and fuel O rings to come out with the lines. Most ofthe time they will remain seated in the intake but I have had them come out with the linesand not notice them before. They are a real pain in the ars to try and find replacements ifyou lose them. If they do come out just set them aside for when you reinstall. If they stayin, leave them in and do not tip the intake over without watching for them or removethem for safe keeping.Remove the two bolts retaining the egr valve and set aside.Remove the clamps and hoses from water pump to heater hose and water pump to intake.

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Now that you have cleared everything. Remove the eight intake bolts from the intake,vortecs do not have center bolts.Remove the intake from the engine.I immediately create a nest in the valley with shop towels to keep out debris. I also coverthe valve train and plug the ports.Run a shop vac across the heads and remove as much crud as you can or wipe it awaywith a rag before it can drop in anywhere.

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#6

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Clean the sealing surfaces and prepare for reinstall. If the valley is full of sludge, removethe lifter retainer and use a shop vac while you break the sludge loose and suck it away. Ifyou don’t have a shop vac to do this, leave it alone. If you break the sludge and have noway of making sure you can get it all out it is sure death to the engine and will find itsway to plugging the oil pick up screen. I have seen many of these engines look like theyshouldn’t be running with all the sludge built up but they just keep on going.Now that the intake is off and you have the block prepped you can remove the upperplastic premium and clean and replace the seals.As you can see, the coolant quick connector is snapped off. Like I said, this is verycommon.

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Remove the air box post from the back side of the throttle body. Then remove all thebolts retaining the throttle body. Remove the old seal below.Remove the coolant sensor and map sensor from the top of the intake.Remove all the upper intake retaining bolts.Remove the upper intake and set aside.

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Now you can see the injector unit or spider.Carefully squeeze each injector, and pull them out of their holes. Turn all the injectortubes out to the sides. Unlock the spider unit from its retainer from both sides and removethe injection unit from lower intake. Each injector can be replaced one at a time if needed.

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If you break one of the retained tabs holding the injectors in the lower intake parts, it’s ok.They will hold fine and stay in place with one. If you break both off, replace the injector.I have several of these spiders lying around so get a hold of me if you need an injector.

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Be careful when cleaning the spider. Do not submerge. And if you tip it upside down,watch for or hold your hand over the fuel injector holes so that you do not lose the smallplastic retainers or O rings inside

Normally heat and an easy out would be the first thing I would grab but on these GMintakes, I have never had any luck with either. Just a good sharp small chisel is what getsthe job done fast and good. The threads go deep in the intake so if you chew up the firstcouple of threads you will be Ok once the tap is run through, it will seal very well again.The new fitting is steel and comes out much easier if needed in the future. I have replacedthe quick connect with just standard hose fittings when customers request.Using a small sharp chisel, start cutting away the broken quick connector. It will breakout in pieces if you just take your time. When you have it completely removed, run a ½14 NPT tap through the threads. Clean your upper and lower intake. Be careful not togouge the sealing surface on the intake when cleaning. Do not use a wiz wheel like in thepictures unless you are very confident you are not going to cut deep or disturb thestraightness. They will wreck the sealing surface in a big hurry.

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Clean the intake threads in the block with a tap. Clean the intake bolts with a wire wheel!You are now ready to reinstall.Place the lower intake on the bench after cleaning. Reinstall your injector spider. Youwill notice on the sides of the spider the cylinder numbers formed into the plastic. The

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cylinder numbers are also formed into the intake itself.Make sure the injectors are placed into their correct holes.Install a new seal into the upper intake and around the injector spider. Lube the seal withVaseline, grease, oil or just something to help it slide into position.Make sure the inner surface where the spider slides into is very clean and lube thatsurface also.Place the upper intake onto the lower intake and push it down into place. It should fitsnug around the spider unit. You can carefully pry up a little to help it into place.Reinstall the upper intake retaining bolts.Install the thermostat housing with a new stat and gasket.Clean the threads on the coolant sensor and coat with pipe dope. Do NOT use tape onthese sensors ever, Always liquid. Coat the new quick connect with sealant and install.Notice the difference here between the stock plastic gaskets and the Felpro Pro Series.

Clean the intake threads in the block with a tap. Clean the intake bolts with a wire wheel!You are now ready to reinstall.Notice the difference here between the stock plastic gaskets and the Felpro Pro Series.Nice!Use brake cleaner and a rag and wipe down the sealing surfaces of the heads and block.Place a small line of RTV sealant in each of the 4 corners where the intake side gasketsmeet the block.Place the intake gaskets into position, pushing the hold in tabs on each end into the heads.No sealant is necessary on these gaskets, they will seal just fine.Place small beads of sealant along the block rails from gasket to gasket.Wipe the intake sealing surface with brake cleaner with a clean rag or towel.Carefully position your intake into place under the wiring harness and over the engine.Slowly lower the intake into position and set in place. Place a small amount of locktite onthe intake bolts and torque to Felpro specs.

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#10

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You can now reverse order of removal and reinstall everything. Make sure yourdistributor is placed down correctly. If the oil pump shaft turned use a long screwdriverand reposition it or continue to move the distributor up and down turning it a tooth at atime until it finds the correct position again. Take your time and it will go for you. Everytime you pull the distributor back up and push it back down a tooth ahead it will turn thepump shaft a little at a time until back to where you need it. I pull it up and turn the rotor180 and put it back down, up again and turn 180 continue until it hits home.After everything is assembled and drain plug closed, change the oil asap to make sureyou remove cleaner, and antifreeze, etc. Fill with fresh coolant. Bring engine to operatingtemp, burp coolant system. Plug a scanner into the truck and scroll to cam retard. Youwant to bring this value into the + or – at 2° of zero. This one started and ran at -12.Every time you make a turn on the distributor, snap the throttle and check the camretarded. As seen in the picture on my solus it is now set at 0°. Check for any codes.Remove scanner and you are done. Nice job! If you don’t have access to a scanner, take itto a shop or someone that does and have the timing set right away.

Adding some more information from frequently asked questions I get.First one is about realigning the distributor if you forget to mark its position or themarkings are lost. Don’t worry, it happens and its not that hard to get it back in alignmentagain.You will need to get the engine set to TDC top dead center on the firing stroke. Thefastest way to do this is by removing the valve cover from the driver side and the number1 spark plug.Turn the engine over by hand until the intake valve goes down and then just closes. Pokea piece of wire in the number one plug hole and feel while turning the engine over byhand until the piston is as far up as it will go just after the intake valve closes.Then stab the distributor into its hole and line the electrical towards the rear between12:00-3:00 position facing it. The cap screw hole should be pointing towards the veryrear upper plenum intake bolt. The rotor should be facing directly at the number plugtower from the cap. This will get you as close as it’s going to get by hand and allow youto start it.Some of the Vortecs do have a v notch in the timing cover above the front crank balancerto use as a number one reference instead of the wire in the plug hole. They didn’t all havethose.

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4.3 5.0 5.7 Vortec Intake gasket replacement guide pictures directions and pic http://helpwrench.com/forums/showthread.php?6-4.3-5.0-5.7-Vortec-Intak...

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I have also got many questions as to troubles getting the spider into the upper intake.I can’t stress enough with this that the inside of the intake where the spider slides intoneeds to be very clean. Also lube it with Vaseline or something. Also lube the o-ringaround the spider.You can apply some up pressure by prying against the lock tab holders and the screws forthe fuel inlet. Do not force or you will break this stuff. If you cleaned it and lubed it, itwill go into place with little effort and allow you to lock the tabs back down.

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