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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
History of Fashion.. World
Byzantine middle ages
300-1400 AD
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda
Associate Professor
NIFT, Bangalore
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Historians use the term "middle ages" to identify the periodbetween ancient times and modern times, a thousand years fromapproximately 500 AD to 1500 AD.
Although civilization was in decline at the beginning of this period,a powerful new Islamic civilization was about to arise in the MiddleEast, and older civilizations would eventually revive.
The first few centuries of the middle ages in Europe are oftencalled the Dark Ages because civilization had collapsed after the
Fall of Rome, and Europe was torn by widespread fighting amongbarbarian tribes.
Christianity took hold in the Roman Empire as the empire wasfalling apart Later, the Roman Empire adopted Christianity as itsofficial religion, which spread Christianity over a large area andmade Christianity a major world religion.
Christianity was so central to life during the middle ages in Europethat Western Europe was called Christendom.
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One of the world's great civilizations was next door to Europe in
the eastern part of the Roman Empire, the part that did not fall to
barbarians. The eastern Roman Empire survived for another
thousand years under a new name, the Byzantine Empire with
its capital at Constantinople. The size of the empire fluctuated
over the centuries, but it generally included Greece and AsiaMinor. Byzantine culture extended into Russia.
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As the Romans declined, on their ashes grew the
late Romans or the Byzantines,by the walls of
the East Roman and the West Roman Empires
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Emperor Justinian (482-565), Empress Theodora
Byzantine emperors served as a
head of both the Christian church and
the state.
The aristocracy was based on wealth
rather than blood.
Women held a prominent place in
this aristocracy until ideas from the
Islamic Near East began to infiltrate.
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The best-known example of Byzantine architecture is the
church of Saint Sophia constructed by emperor Justinian
in Constantinople. Built as the largest Christian church in
the world, it became the model for later Eastern Orthodox
churches.
Church of Saint Sophia
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Mosaic at the Hagia Sophia
Byzantine emperors promoted a style of art
that featured beautiful mosaics.
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Justinian also brought together all of the laws of the RomanEmpire into a single legal code that became the basis for modern
legal systems in Europe.
Rules and customs in the Byzantine court became so complex
that the term "byzantine" is now used to indicate any set ofcomplicated laws or procedures.
As in the Roman Empire, labour was supplied by a slave class of
foreign captives and the poor.
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Fourth to the Sixth Centuries
Christians Arabs
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Textile & Costume..
Wool and linenpredominated until the 6th century.
Silkwas being produced by the Byzantines as early as the 6th
century, and they continued to supply the Western world until the
9th century. it was a lucrative trade;
Byzantine brocade with Persian designs was sought after.
Garments were appliqud or embroidered, or adorned with
precious stones
Byzantine costume merges the styles and ideas of both east and
west. A gradual evolution of Roman styles incorporated more and
more ornate eastern elements, producing a rigidity and formality in
dress that reflected the court life of the Emperor and the landed
nobility.
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Byzantine dress changed considerably over the thousand years of
the Empire, but was essentially conservative. The Byzantines liked
colour and pattern, and made and exported very richly patterned
cloth, woven and embroidered for the upper classes, and resist-dyed
and printed for the lower.
Unlike the earlier
period which leftfabric largely
undecorated, thepeople of the
Byzantine/Romanian Empire used all
manner of woven,embroidered andbeaded surfaceembellishment,particularly on
Church vestmentsand court dress.
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Sixth Century - Byzantine Empire
Attendants and Empress Theodora
If one color would to chosenfor Byzantium it would begoldbecause it seemed themost prevalent color in artfrom that time.
Other colors associated withthis court would be violet,purple, brown, blue, redblack, white gray and plum.
The Western colors weremuch deeper and earthy.
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Byzantine" dress is more body covering than earlier Roman costume,
usually including long sleeves and long hems. This is generally
assumed to be a reaction to the growing Christian view that the body
was not beautiful, but a pit of vice.
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A different border or trimminground the edges was very common, and many
single stripesdown the body or around the upper arm are seen, often
denoting class or rank. Taste for the middle and upper classes followed the
latest fashions at the Imperial Court. .
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The most
notable
feature of the
EasternEmpire's
dress is it's
surface
decoration.
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Byzantine Royal Costume..
Dalmatica; long unbeltedrobe outer garment forrulers
Paludamentum; Cloakfastend with clasp on rightshoulder
TablionThe veryelaborate, oblongdecoration embroidered inred and gold on the backand front of the imperial
Byzantine mantle. For otherhigh officials it varied incolor. Protects fabric fromexcessive wear.
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Foliated Crowncrown with a
decorative and pointed upper
edgedecorations were
commonly leaf or scallop patterns.
PalliumThe pallium was a circle
dropped over the head with tabs
hanging front and back, often
encrusted with decoration.
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MantleHuge square piece of fabric
tied around the body as a wrap andrelated to the himation.
CoteA long tunic with the sleeve cutin one piece with the garment. Thelength varied from the calf to theinstep.
Surcote- A loose, lightweight garmentoriginally worn by the Crusader overhis armor as a protection against thesun. It soon became and over-tunicworn over the cote,sometimes un-seamed, sometimes sleeveless,
sometimes with wide open sleeveslike a dalmatic. It could be belted orunbelted, and the length varied fromknee to the ankle.
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The cote and surcote are simply new terms in the 13th century for
what are essentially the undertunic and an outer tunic. Upper-class
men wore long sleeved, full-length cotes, with a shorter surcote. The
surcote could be sleeveless with low armholes, called the sidelesssurcote. It could also have wide, elbow-length sleeves.
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MitreThe first miters were only low caps, with the points at the
sides instead of front and back. By the end of the tenth century the
low miter was customary and worn, as the miter is now, by a bishop
as part of his ceremonial costume.
9th-10th Century Byzantines from Stibbert
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Cope: was a voluminous half-circle cape, remnant of a hooded
cloak, that was often elaborately embroidered. . This is sewn to one
edge and is hooked or pinned by a jeweled brooch to the other.
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Deacon, Bishop, Levite - Church Official,
Long half circle capeswere
part of male court dress,
worn in place of the old
toga over the new long
sleeved tunica or
dalmatica.
This style of decoration,
and many of the garment
shapes, survive to this day
in the priestly vestments of
Orthodox churches in
Greece, Eastern Europe
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Early 6th Century.. trousers
When the tunic is shorter (only
on men) the lower limbs are
encased in trousers, a
"barbarian" invention first
adopted by the Roman army and
lower classes, and eventually by
all men.
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Women..
TunicIt was like the late Roman
tunica, the sleeves in one with the
garment, or pieced on with a
straight seam. The neckline was
high and slit down a little distance
to admit the head. The length of
the tunic varied from a little belowthe knees to the instep.
ChemiseAn undergarment with
long sleeves that showed beneath
the sleeves and some lower
necklines of the outer garment forwomen..
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WimpleA shaped kerchief
for the head. Comes invarious lengths from shoulderto floor
KirtleAnglo-Saxon for tunic.Usually female garment, long
sleeve fit at waist and fullbottom at the floor.
ChatelaineCord wornaround the woman's waistthat a house-hold items, such
as scissors or keys, wereattached.
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Bliaut
In the 12th century a new tunic appeared - the
bliaut - with a long, flared skirt that was joined to
the bodice at a low waist seam. An inset bias or
diagonal piece was set in at the hip to assure
better fit.
The bliaut, in its more complex pattern shapes,
shows progress in clothing construction.
The bodice was now fitted closely, and laced
shut at the sides. This type of closure applied to
the women's bliaut as well, as garments became
more body-revealing.
New attitudes toward modesty were evidentinthese garments. Sleeves were funnel-shaped,
revealing the tight-fitting undertunic.
The bliaut was made of luxurious fabrics such as
silk, satin or velvet, and embroidered with gold
thread.
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B ti C t D f th 6th C t f
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Byzantine Court Dress of the 6th Century from
Stibbert
Women of Byzantium wore their hair up like the women of ImperialRoman with elaborate coiffures. They sometimes concealed theirhair with turban-wrappings borrowed from the Orient.
Women of the West also wore turbans however they did not weartheir hair up like Roman women, they adopted the hair style of thebarbarians and let their hair grow very long. They braided it intobraids that reached below their knees.
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The Empress, wears aStemmajeweled crown with pendants of
beads or pearls and other precious materials hanging down from the
crown on the side of the head seen primarily hanging by the ears
called Perpendula and maniakis- the wide jeweled collar.
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Church garment as evolution of Byzantine costume
This image also shows the mitre, a
double pointed cap with tabs hanging
down the back, a headdress
reserved for bishops.
The pallium, developed from the Greek
himation and was a feature of Byzantinedress. The original was folded into a narrow
strip, and then reduced to a circle with tabs
hanging front and back. It featured
embroidered crosses
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Saints in the dress of 6th Century Patricians /A saint depicted in the
dress of a princess of the 5th Century
C C f
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Chora Churchin Istanbul gives an excellent view of a
range of costume from the late period
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The Byzantines are believed to have invented the face-veil for
women,though some sources ascribe its invention to the
Persians. Among the Byzantines, it was worn only in the street
by the upper classes.
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Not many shoes are seen clearly in Byzantine Art because of the
long robes of the rich. Red shoes marked the Emperor; blue
shoes, a sebastokrator and green shoes a protovestiarios.
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Military costume
This stayed close to the Romanpattern, especially for officers. Abreastplate of armour, underwhich the bottom of a short tunicappeared as a skirt, oftenoverlaid with a fringe of leatherstraps, the pteruges.
Similar strips covered the upper
arms, below round armourshoulder-pieces.
Bootscame to the calf, orsandals were strapped high onthe legs.
A rather flimsy-looking cloth belt
is tied high under the ribs as abadge of rank rather than apractical item.
Pteruges
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pterugeshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pterugeshttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/96/Pteruges_on_byzantine_helm.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Basilios_II.jpg8/13/2019 6, 7 Middle Ages For
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9th-13th Century European armor
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9th-13th Century European armor
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Summary ..
An important distinction between Roman and Byzantine dress is
the contrast between the loose, draped Roman style and the semi-fitted, rigid Byzantine silhouette. This change reflected the newChristian concern with concealing the human body, as it wasconsidered an object of shame in Christian doctrine.
Necklines were high and sleeves long. The stiff fabrics took their
own form, totally unlike the drape and flow of Classical garments.The new silhouette was flat, rigid and static.
Dress in the Byzantine period is considered to be among the mostornate and complex in history, competing with the Elizabethanperiod in richness and artificiality.
Other than the development of sericulture - the manufacturing ofsilk - no great changes were seen from the end of the Empire tothe 11thcentury, with costume adhering to pseudo-Roman forms.
Between the 10thand 13thcenturies, an evolution occurred,transforming the unfitted tunic to the complex, fitted bliaut.
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The Eastern Roman, or Byzantine Empire flourished, building a
strong commercial economy. Expansion ended in the 7th century,
when Arab armies invaded.
the Empire finally collapsed under the weight of the powerful new
Arabic forces that had been united under Islam.
The city of Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Turks in 1453.
The disappearance of civil government in the west opened the
door for the Germanic invaders to form new kingdoms. Here too anew culture developed, based on a fusion of Roman and
Germanic traditions.
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
900-1200 Romanesque
Carolingian period
Frankish costume..
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
The cultural period of this period wascharacterized by a strong display ofpower by the ruling nobility andstruggle for power between Churchand State.
Romanesque style developed with thefusion of Teutonic elements and arts ofRoman.
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
During the Carolingian periodFrance under Charlemagne(Christian King of Germanic
people, called theFranksgave France itsname) gained supremacyover central Europe.
After his armies defended thePope, the pope crownedCharlemagne the newRoman emperor on theChristmas day 800AD.
Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne, by Albrecht Drer
After Charlemagnes death his empire was divided amongst three
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
After Charlemagne s death his empire was divided amongst three
sonsformed geographical outline of Germany and France.
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
Feudalism.. The social and economic system which
characterized most European societies in the Middle
Ages
In most of medieval Europe, society was dependent onthe "feudal" system, which was based on allocation ofland in return for service. The king would give outgrants of land to his most important noblemen (barons
and bishops),
At the beginning of the Middle Ages a knight wasoriginally a person of noble birth who was trained in arange of weapons, horsemanship and chivalry.
A Knights Armor in the Middle Ages was extremelyexpensive to produce. It had to be tailor-made to fit theKnight exactly or the Knight ran the risk of an ill-fittingsuit of armor hampering him in battle
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A Viking the explorers, warriors, merchants, and pirates who raided and
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
A Vikingthe explorers, warriors, merchants, and pirates who raided and
colonized wide areas of Europe from the late eighth to the early eleventh
century.
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
Eleventh Century; Knights and Soldiers - First Crusade
Roman Catholic popes
encouraged Christian Kingsand knights to undertakemilitary expedition or crusadeto capture holy landfrom theMuslims land at the easternend of the Mediterranean seawhere Jesus lived. also holyto Jews and Muslims.
Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries - Military and Religious Orders
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries - Military and Religious OrdersThe great military orders had their origin in the crusades, from which
they retain the common badge of every order of knighthood -- thecross worn on the breast.
Order of St. John of Jerusalem
(Hospitallers) - Females
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
Crusaders conquered much of holy landand Jerusalem in 1099.
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From : Kingdom of Heaven
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The elegance of the Orient, with its silks, tapestries, precious stones, perfumes,
spices, pearls, and ivory, was so enchanting that an enthusiastic crusader called it"the vestibule of Paradise.
The Crusades were therefore one of the principal fostering influences of Chivalry.
Contact with the culture of the East provided a general refining influence.
In addition to the effects of the crusades on material development various arts,
manufactures, and inventions before unknown in Europe, were introduced from
Asia. This enrichment of the civilization of the West with the "spoils of the East"can be seen in the artefacts displayed in modern European museums.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore
Socialknighthood
The Knights Templar were a
monastic military orderformed at the end of the FirstCrusade with the mandate ofprotecting Christian pilgrimson route to the Holy Land.
After the crusades were over,
the knights returned to theirChapters throughout Europeand became known asmoneylenders to themonarchs.
In the process manyhistorians believe theyinvented the Banking System.
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
Clothing
The clothing of this period was Frankish costume was derived from Teutonic
or Roman clothing
As in the previous centuries, two styles of dress existed side-by-side formen:
A short (knee-length) costume deriving from a melding of theeveryday dress of the later Roman Empire
The short tunics worn by the invading barbarians,
long (ankle-length) costume descended from the clothing of theRoman upper classes and influenced by Byzantine dress
The differences in the Byzantine and Western dress in the years between
the sixth and eleventh centuries are the differences in ornament, headdress,and length of particular garments.
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
Men costume
Newly fashionable were short, fitted garments
for the upper body, worn under the tunic: the
doublet, made of two layers of linen, and an
early form of quilted and paddedjupeor gipon.
The sleeveless surcoat or cyclaswas
introduced during this period as protectivecovering for armour (especially against the
sun) during the Crusades.
Fur was worn as an inside lining for warmth.
Vair, the fur of the squirrel, was particularly
popular and can be seen as a white and blue-
grey softly striped or checkered pattern lining
the mantles of the wealthy
Richard the Lion heart is portrayed in a long
tunic with tight sleeves and a mantle, late 12th
century.
Charlemagne wore the traditional inconspicuous and distinctly non-
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Charlemagne wore the traditional, inconspicuous and distinctly non-
aristocratic costume of the Frankish people
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
Charlemagne and Pope Adrian I
He used to wear the Frank
dress: next to his skin a linen
shirt and linen breeches, and
above these a tunic fringed
with silk; while hose fastened
by bands covered his lower
limbs, and shoes his feet,
and he protected his
shoulders and chest in winter
by a close-fitting coat of otteror marten skins.
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Underclothes consisted of an inner tunic
(French chemise) or shirt with long, tight
sleeves, and drawers or braies,usuallyof linen.
Tailored cloth leggings called chausses
or hosemade as separate garments for
each leg, were often worn with the tunic;
striped hose were popular
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Men wore knee-length tunicsfor most activities,
Men of the upper classes wore long tunics with hose and
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Men of the upper classes wore long tunics, with hoseand
mantles or cloaks.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
long and short tunics and hose or leggings,. The king wears a
l li d i i ( i l f ) f d h ld
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
mantle linedin vair(squirrel fur) fastened on one shoulder, c.
1180.
Th F k h d h t i ti h t ll d " i " hi h b l
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The Franks had a characteristic short cape called a "saie",which barely
came to the waist.
Shoes, not alwaysworn by the poor,were mostly thesimple turnshoe-typically a cowhide
sole and softerleather upper, whichwere sewn together,and then turnedinside out.
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
short tunics and chausses/hose.
The "cappa"or chaperon, a one-piece hood and cape over theshoulders was worn for cold weather, The man on the left wears a hoodover a linen coif, Normandy
Women clothing
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
Women's clothing consistedof an undertunic called achemise, chainseor smock,usually of linen, over whichwas worn one or more ankle-to-floor length tunics (alsocalled gowns or kirtles).
A new fashion, the bliautgiron, arose in mid-century:this gown is cut in two pieces,a fitted upper portion with afinely pleated skirt attached to
a low waistband.
Women clothing..
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
With the coming of Christianity, women were expected tocover their hair, at least in public, with a loose shoulder cape,
mantle or kerchief.
It appears that fur was mostly worn out of sight, as a lining,or perhaps like the fur waistcoats known from the later
Middle Ages.
Figure showing the trumpet-sleeved bliaut characteristic of
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
Figure showing the trumpet-sleeved bliaut characteristic of
the later 12th century,
Women of the French courtwore a loosely fitted tuniccalled a cotteor the form-fitting bliaut over a fullchemise with tight sleeves.
The bliaut had a flaring skirtand sleeves tight to theelbow and then widening towrist in a trumpet shape.
A bliaut apparently cut inone piece from neckline to
hem has visible side-lacingand is belted at the naturalwaistline.
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
Joan of Arc Death at the
Stake.
Carolingians 700 800
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Carolingians - 700-800
Tenth Century/ Eleventh Century France Frankish King and Queen
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Tenth Century/ Eleventh Century - France Frankish King and Queen
Frankish Noblewomen/ Emperor Henry II Frankish Bishop
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Frankish Noblewomen/ Emperor Henry II, Frankish Bishop
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English Armor and Lady of
the 13th Century
Summary..
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Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
The main feature of the period was the meeting of late Roman
costume with the invading peoples who moved into Europe over thisperiod.
For a period of several centuries, people in many countries dresseddifferently depending on whether they identified with the oldRomanized population, or the new populations such as Franks,
Anglo-Saxons Visigoths.
The most easily recognizable difference between the two groupswas in male costume, where the invading peoples generally woreshort tunics, with belts, and visible trousers, hose or leggings.
The Romanized populations, and the Church, remained faithful tothe longer tunics of Roman formal costume, coming below the knee,and often to the ankles.
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1300-1500 Gothic Chivalry
Burgundian fashion
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The Gothic period, ranging from the 12th century to the 15th
century is characterized by idealism and naturalism, where for
example, sculptures in France of the gothic period show a dynamic
variety of poise, detail, and articulation.
The gothic style succeeded the Romanesque as the most popular
contemporary art form in Europe, and prevailed in most countries.
The word 'gothic' is very old, and was used from the Renaissance
on to signify the art style of the Middle Ages. It was named after the
German tribe of the Goths, who once had invaded Italy and so had
broken up the Roman Empire
The Gothic style succeeded the Romanesque period and was in turn
succeeded by the Renaissance It reached its highest artistic
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succeeded by the Renaissance. It reached its highest artistic
achievements in Northern and Western Europe from the mid-12th
century until as late as the end of the 15th century.
Salisbury Cathedral hasthe tallest spire in England
Interior of San Zanipolo,VeniceThe western faade of
Reims Cathedral, France
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The costumes of Gothic time are usually divided into two periods:
Early Gothic and
Late Gothic.
Necklines were lower, a little at first and trimming was not so heavy asbefore. The heavy double-sleeve went out by 1200 and the forearm wasrevealed because sleeves became tight.
Shorter tunics emerged and the cote reached to the knee and a little above
it but women's clothing was invariably long.
The period changed from the earlier flowing draperies thatmetamorphosed, finally, into fabrics that became more and more stiff.
In the fifteenth century the extremes were in mostly the upper silhouette.
There were crisp pleats, tight belts, padded doublets, and increasinglypopular leg-o-mutton sleeve, all the items foreshadowing the squareness ofthe next hundred years.
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Colors for this period arejewel like huesmuch like painting from Jan van Eyke'swork.
The colors were reds, greens, blues andgolds, soft but intense.Interspersed withthese colors were brown gray and tan ofhumbler garments.
One particular color that could associatewith the earlier period would bevermillion.
Material
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Although woolwas used for the outer layers of clothing, linen, made from the flax
plant, was generally used for clothing that was directly in contact with the skin, as it
was not as coarse as wool and therefore much more pleasant. Unlike wool, linen
could also be laundered and bleached in the sun. Cotton,imported raw from Egypt
and elsewhere, was used for padding and quilting, and cloths such as buckram and
fustian.
The well-off could afford woven brocadesfrom Italy or even further. Fashionable
Italian silks of this period featured repeating patterns of roundels and animals,
deriving from Ottoman silk-weaving centres in Bursa, and ultimately from Yuan
Dynasty China via the Silk Road.
Material..
13th century clothing features long, belted tunics
ith t tl i i t l
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with surcoats or mantles in various styles.
ChaperonA caped hood with long tail,or liripipe, worn with the face opening
around the head
Cote-hardieA shaped garment, tight-fitting around the shoulder, waist andhips.
PourpointA short jacket with tightsleeves buttoned from elbow to wrist,worn under the cote-hardie
DoubletA short jacket worn under aclosefitting pour point, when used as anouter garment it was padded and had a
short skirt. TippetA band sewn around the elbow
of the cote-hardie sleeve with the endhanging as a streamer
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HouppelandeA loose and
comfortable gown of greatsize
One style worn by men had
long, flowing , bell shaped
sleeves, a long fitted waist,
and floor length or long skirt
slit to the knees; another
style, known as the bastard
houppelandewas only to
calf length.
A high standing collar was
usually a part of this
flamboyant costume.
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Young Merlin wears a short
tunic with a rectangular cloak
or mantle and hose.
King Vortigern wears a
mantle draped over both
shoulders over along gown
or tunic and shoes with
straps at the instep.
Blond hairwas popular so
many people bleached their
hair. Men in the late Gothic
period wore hair bobbed also
with neatly curled ends and
more men began wearing
beards that were neatlytrimmed accompanied by a
small mustache.
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Late Gothic Men..
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The innermost layer of clothing
were the breeches, a looseundergarment, usually made of
linen, which was held up by a belt.
Next came the shirt, which was
generally also made of linen, and
which was considered an
undergarment, like the breeches.
A doubletwas a buttoned jacket
that was generally of hip length.
Similar garments were called ,
pourpoint,jaquetaorjubn., These
garments were worn over the shirt
and the hose.
CrackowsA long-tipped hose andshoe
.
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Hoseor chaussesmade out of
wool were used to cover the
legs, and were generallybrightly colored,, and often had
leather soles, so that they did
not have to be worn with shoes
Hose were generally tied to the
breech belt, or to the breechesthemselves, or to a doublet
Fourteenth Century
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y
Bridegroom wears a red cotehardie, hose, and hood, Italy, 1350s,
Huntsman wears side lacing boots late 14th century
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Huntsman wears side-lacing boots, late 14th century
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Italian fashion of the 1470s features short
gowns worn over doublets, and hats of
many shapes.
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WOMEN..
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor
Dress for women was restrained.A floor length, loosely-
fitted gown with long tight sleeves and a narrow belt was
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fitted gown, with long, tight sleeves and a narrow belt, was
uniform.
Over this was worn the cyclasor sleeveless surcoat(also
worn by men).
Women wear linen headdresses or wimples and veils,
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Women raking hay
work barefoot and
wear their kirtles
looped up over long-
sleeved linen
smocks,
Full bodied houppelandes with
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Full-bodied houppelandes with
voluminous sleeves worn with
elaborate headdresses are
characteristic of the earlier 15thcentury.
Gown kirtle and chemise
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Gown, kirtle, and chemise
The tight
slashed
sleeves reveal
the fullchemise
sleeves
beneath
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Fur-trimmed Burgundian
gown of mid-century has
a V-neck that displays
the black kirtle and a
band of the chemise.
Hair is pulled back in an
embroidered hennin andcovered by a short veil.
Long gowns of the
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Long gowns of the
1480s are carried
looped up to allow
walking,
displaying the
kirtle beneath.
royal ermine-trimmed
sideless surcoat and a
symbolic mantle
Parti-coloringA multi-colored garment, often with one
side embroidered based on the colors and the emblems
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side embroidered based on the colors and the emblems
in a coat of arms.
DiaperingPuttingprecious gems
and stones ona garment insimple orelaboratepatterns mostoftenrecognized by
a diamondpattern.
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Woman wears a
pink sleeveless
gown (Surcoat)
over a green
kirtle, with a linen
veil and white
gloves
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EscoffinAs tall, richly
brocaded headdress,
sometimes shaped like two
horns, sometimes like a narrow,tall turban; usually had a veil of
fine lawn about a yard wide.
Burgundian Court Dress: HenninA truncated cone or steeple
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headdress with a veil completely covering the female hairdo.
wear heart shaped
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wear heart-shaped
headdresses with veils and
belted, fur-lined gowns open at
the front to display thechemises beneath, Burgundy,
144550.
d l h dd d f h k
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PomanderA ball or hollow
ornament often made of filigree,containing a sponge of perfume,suspended from a necklace orgirdle.
RoundelA headdress made of a thickroll of material with a scarf or liripipehanging down one side and draped overthe shoulder.
Later in the period women's necks
were exposed but their hair was
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covered by netting or reticulations
like round cages.
No hair was visible and was
plucked to have a high hairlineand thin eyebrows.
Many Italian women wear their
hair twisted with cord or ribbon
and bound around their heads
In the earily period women would wear many types of hair pieces to
it h i l d t Th t ld t ll
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cover it, such as wimple and gorget. The gorget would actually cover
the neck while the wimple would cover the head.
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liripipe
Maria Portinari wears a truncated cone
hennin with a veil draped over the back.
The black loop on her forehead is thought
to be part of the wire frame that balances
the hennin.
Women..1450 Germany In this period The Dukes of Burgundy,
members of the French Royal House of Valois
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Houppelande:The woman's version of this robe had
a soft, open collar, a short waist, a full skirt, and a
long flowing sleeves.
y
Houppelande
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Women spinning
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