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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

    History of Fashion.. World

    Byzantine middle ages

    300-1400 AD

    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda

    Associate Professor

    NIFT, Bangalore

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    Historians use the term "middle ages" to identify the periodbetween ancient times and modern times, a thousand years fromapproximately 500 AD to 1500 AD.

    Although civilization was in decline at the beginning of this period,a powerful new Islamic civilization was about to arise in the MiddleEast, and older civilizations would eventually revive.

    The first few centuries of the middle ages in Europe are oftencalled the Dark Ages because civilization had collapsed after the

    Fall of Rome, and Europe was torn by widespread fighting amongbarbarian tribes.

    Christianity took hold in the Roman Empire as the empire wasfalling apart Later, the Roman Empire adopted Christianity as itsofficial religion, which spread Christianity over a large area andmade Christianity a major world religion.

    Christianity was so central to life during the middle ages in Europethat Western Europe was called Christendom.

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    One of the world's great civilizations was next door to Europe in

    the eastern part of the Roman Empire, the part that did not fall to

    barbarians. The eastern Roman Empire survived for another

    thousand years under a new name, the Byzantine Empire with

    its capital at Constantinople. The size of the empire fluctuated

    over the centuries, but it generally included Greece and AsiaMinor. Byzantine culture extended into Russia.

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    As the Romans declined, on their ashes grew the

    late Romans or the Byzantines,by the walls of

    the East Roman and the West Roman Empires

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    Emperor Justinian (482-565), Empress Theodora

    Byzantine emperors served as a

    head of both the Christian church and

    the state.

    The aristocracy was based on wealth

    rather than blood.

    Women held a prominent place in

    this aristocracy until ideas from the

    Islamic Near East began to infiltrate.

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    The best-known example of Byzantine architecture is the

    church of Saint Sophia constructed by emperor Justinian

    in Constantinople. Built as the largest Christian church in

    the world, it became the model for later Eastern Orthodox

    churches.

    Church of Saint Sophia

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    Mosaic at the Hagia Sophia

    Byzantine emperors promoted a style of art

    that featured beautiful mosaics.

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    Justinian also brought together all of the laws of the RomanEmpire into a single legal code that became the basis for modern

    legal systems in Europe.

    Rules and customs in the Byzantine court became so complex

    that the term "byzantine" is now used to indicate any set ofcomplicated laws or procedures.

    As in the Roman Empire, labour was supplied by a slave class of

    foreign captives and the poor.

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    Fourth to the Sixth Centuries

    Christians Arabs

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    Textile & Costume..

    Wool and linenpredominated until the 6th century.

    Silkwas being produced by the Byzantines as early as the 6th

    century, and they continued to supply the Western world until the

    9th century. it was a lucrative trade;

    Byzantine brocade with Persian designs was sought after.

    Garments were appliqud or embroidered, or adorned with

    precious stones

    Byzantine costume merges the styles and ideas of both east and

    west. A gradual evolution of Roman styles incorporated more and

    more ornate eastern elements, producing a rigidity and formality in

    dress that reflected the court life of the Emperor and the landed

    nobility.

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    Byzantine dress changed considerably over the thousand years of

    the Empire, but was essentially conservative. The Byzantines liked

    colour and pattern, and made and exported very richly patterned

    cloth, woven and embroidered for the upper classes, and resist-dyed

    and printed for the lower.

    Unlike the earlier

    period which leftfabric largely

    undecorated, thepeople of the

    Byzantine/Romanian Empire used all

    manner of woven,embroidered andbeaded surfaceembellishment,particularly on

    Church vestmentsand court dress.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Meister_der_Kahriye-Cami-Kirche_in_Istanbul_002.jpg
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    Sixth Century - Byzantine Empire

    Attendants and Empress Theodora

    If one color would to chosenfor Byzantium it would begoldbecause it seemed themost prevalent color in artfrom that time.

    Other colors associated withthis court would be violet,purple, brown, blue, redblack, white gray and plum.

    The Western colors weremuch deeper and earthy.

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    Byzantine" dress is more body covering than earlier Roman costume,

    usually including long sleeves and long hems. This is generally

    assumed to be a reaction to the growing Christian view that the body

    was not beautiful, but a pit of vice.

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    A different border or trimminground the edges was very common, and many

    single stripesdown the body or around the upper arm are seen, often

    denoting class or rank. Taste for the middle and upper classes followed the

    latest fashions at the Imperial Court. .

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    The most

    notable

    feature of the

    EasternEmpire's

    dress is it's

    surface

    decoration.

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    Byzantine Royal Costume..

    Dalmatica; long unbeltedrobe outer garment forrulers

    Paludamentum; Cloakfastend with clasp on rightshoulder

    TablionThe veryelaborate, oblongdecoration embroidered inred and gold on the backand front of the imperial

    Byzantine mantle. For otherhigh officials it varied incolor. Protects fabric fromexcessive wear.

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    Foliated Crowncrown with a

    decorative and pointed upper

    edgedecorations were

    commonly leaf or scallop patterns.

    PalliumThe pallium was a circle

    dropped over the head with tabs

    hanging front and back, often

    encrusted with decoration.

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    MantleHuge square piece of fabric

    tied around the body as a wrap andrelated to the himation.

    CoteA long tunic with the sleeve cutin one piece with the garment. Thelength varied from the calf to theinstep.

    Surcote- A loose, lightweight garmentoriginally worn by the Crusader overhis armor as a protection against thesun. It soon became and over-tunicworn over the cote,sometimes un-seamed, sometimes sleeveless,

    sometimes with wide open sleeveslike a dalmatic. It could be belted orunbelted, and the length varied fromknee to the ankle.

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    The cote and surcote are simply new terms in the 13th century for

    what are essentially the undertunic and an outer tunic. Upper-class

    men wore long sleeved, full-length cotes, with a shorter surcote. The

    surcote could be sleeveless with low armholes, called the sidelesssurcote. It could also have wide, elbow-length sleeves.

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    MitreThe first miters were only low caps, with the points at the

    sides instead of front and back. By the end of the tenth century the

    low miter was customary and worn, as the miter is now, by a bishop

    as part of his ceremonial costume.

    9th-10th Century Byzantines from Stibbert

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    Cope: was a voluminous half-circle cape, remnant of a hooded

    cloak, that was often elaborately embroidered. . This is sewn to one

    edge and is hooked or pinned by a jeweled brooch to the other.

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    Deacon, Bishop, Levite - Church Official,

    Long half circle capeswere

    part of male court dress,

    worn in place of the old

    toga over the new long

    sleeved tunica or

    dalmatica.

    This style of decoration,

    and many of the garment

    shapes, survive to this day

    in the priestly vestments of

    Orthodox churches in

    Greece, Eastern Europe

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    Early 6th Century.. trousers

    When the tunic is shorter (only

    on men) the lower limbs are

    encased in trousers, a

    "barbarian" invention first

    adopted by the Roman army and

    lower classes, and eventually by

    all men.

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    Women..

    TunicIt was like the late Roman

    tunica, the sleeves in one with the

    garment, or pieced on with a

    straight seam. The neckline was

    high and slit down a little distance

    to admit the head. The length of

    the tunic varied from a little belowthe knees to the instep.

    ChemiseAn undergarment with

    long sleeves that showed beneath

    the sleeves and some lower

    necklines of the outer garment forwomen..

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    WimpleA shaped kerchief

    for the head. Comes invarious lengths from shoulderto floor

    KirtleAnglo-Saxon for tunic.Usually female garment, long

    sleeve fit at waist and fullbottom at the floor.

    ChatelaineCord wornaround the woman's waistthat a house-hold items, such

    as scissors or keys, wereattached.

    http://www.culture.gr/2/21/215/21505/215052/00/leb054.jpg
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    Bliaut

    In the 12th century a new tunic appeared - the

    bliaut - with a long, flared skirt that was joined to

    the bodice at a low waist seam. An inset bias or

    diagonal piece was set in at the hip to assure

    better fit.

    The bliaut, in its more complex pattern shapes,

    shows progress in clothing construction.

    The bodice was now fitted closely, and laced

    shut at the sides. This type of closure applied to

    the women's bliaut as well, as garments became

    more body-revealing.

    New attitudes toward modesty were evidentinthese garments. Sleeves were funnel-shaped,

    revealing the tight-fitting undertunic.

    The bliaut was made of luxurious fabrics such as

    silk, satin or velvet, and embroidered with gold

    thread.

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    B ti C t D f th 6th C t f

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    Byzantine Court Dress of the 6th Century from

    Stibbert

    Women of Byzantium wore their hair up like the women of ImperialRoman with elaborate coiffures. They sometimes concealed theirhair with turban-wrappings borrowed from the Orient.

    Women of the West also wore turbans however they did not weartheir hair up like Roman women, they adopted the hair style of thebarbarians and let their hair grow very long. They braided it intobraids that reached below their knees.

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    The Empress, wears aStemmajeweled crown with pendants of

    beads or pearls and other precious materials hanging down from the

    crown on the side of the head seen primarily hanging by the ears

    called Perpendula and maniakis- the wide jeweled collar.

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    Church garment as evolution of Byzantine costume

    This image also shows the mitre, a

    double pointed cap with tabs hanging

    down the back, a headdress

    reserved for bishops.

    The pallium, developed from the Greek

    himation and was a feature of Byzantinedress. The original was folded into a narrow

    strip, and then reduced to a circle with tabs

    hanging front and back. It featured

    embroidered crosses

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    Saints in the dress of 6th Century Patricians /A saint depicted in the

    dress of a princess of the 5th Century

    C C f

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    Chora Churchin Istanbul gives an excellent view of a

    range of costume from the late period

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a6/Meister_der_Kahriye-Cami-Kirche_in_Istanbul_005.jpg
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    The Byzantines are believed to have invented the face-veil for

    women,though some sources ascribe its invention to the

    Persians. Among the Byzantines, it was worn only in the street

    by the upper classes.

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2c/Slaves,_carrying_a_noble_woman_from_the_Chronicle_of_John_Skylitzes.jpg
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    Not many shoes are seen clearly in Byzantine Art because of the

    long robes of the rich. Red shoes marked the Emperor; blue

    shoes, a sebastokrator and green shoes a protovestiarios.

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    Military costume

    This stayed close to the Romanpattern, especially for officers. Abreastplate of armour, underwhich the bottom of a short tunicappeared as a skirt, oftenoverlaid with a fringe of leatherstraps, the pteruges.

    Similar strips covered the upper

    arms, below round armourshoulder-pieces.

    Bootscame to the calf, orsandals were strapped high onthe legs.

    A rather flimsy-looking cloth belt

    is tied high under the ribs as abadge of rank rather than apractical item.

    Pteruges

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pterugeshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pterugeshttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/96/Pteruges_on_byzantine_helm.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Basilios_II.jpg
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    9th-13th Century European armor

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    9th-13th Century European armor

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    Summary ..

    An important distinction between Roman and Byzantine dress is

    the contrast between the loose, draped Roman style and the semi-fitted, rigid Byzantine silhouette. This change reflected the newChristian concern with concealing the human body, as it wasconsidered an object of shame in Christian doctrine.

    Necklines were high and sleeves long. The stiff fabrics took their

    own form, totally unlike the drape and flow of Classical garments.The new silhouette was flat, rigid and static.

    Dress in the Byzantine period is considered to be among the mostornate and complex in history, competing with the Elizabethanperiod in richness and artificiality.

    Other than the development of sericulture - the manufacturing ofsilk - no great changes were seen from the end of the Empire tothe 11thcentury, with costume adhering to pseudo-Roman forms.

    Between the 10thand 13thcenturies, an evolution occurred,transforming the unfitted tunic to the complex, fitted bliaut.

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    The Eastern Roman, or Byzantine Empire flourished, building a

    strong commercial economy. Expansion ended in the 7th century,

    when Arab armies invaded.

    the Empire finally collapsed under the weight of the powerful new

    Arabic forces that had been united under Islam.

    The city of Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Turks in 1453.

    The disappearance of civil government in the west opened the

    door for the Germanic invaders to form new kingdoms. Here too anew culture developed, based on a fusion of Roman and

    Germanic traditions.

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

    900-1200 Romanesque

    Carolingian period

    Frankish costume..

    http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/quicherat/Roidudixieme.JPGhttp://www.bc.edu/bc_org/avp/cas/fnart/arch/romanesque/paray02.jpg
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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    The cultural period of this period wascharacterized by a strong display ofpower by the ruling nobility andstruggle for power between Churchand State.

    Romanesque style developed with thefusion of Teutonic elements and arts ofRoman.

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/27/Rolandfealty.jpg
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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    During the Carolingian periodFrance under Charlemagne(Christian King of Germanic

    people, called theFranksgave France itsname) gained supremacyover central Europe.

    After his armies defended thePope, the pope crownedCharlemagne the newRoman emperor on theChristmas day 800AD.

    Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne, by Albrecht Drer

    After Charlemagnes death his empire was divided amongst three

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    After Charlemagne s death his empire was divided amongst three

    sonsformed geographical outline of Germany and France.

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

    Feudalism.. The social and economic system which

    characterized most European societies in the Middle

    Ages

    In most of medieval Europe, society was dependent onthe "feudal" system, which was based on allocation ofland in return for service. The king would give outgrants of land to his most important noblemen (barons

    and bishops),

    At the beginning of the Middle Ages a knight wasoriginally a person of noble birth who was trained in arange of weapons, horsemanship and chivalry.

    A Knights Armor in the Middle Ages was extremelyexpensive to produce. It had to be tailor-made to fit theKnight exactly or the Knight ran the risk of an ill-fittingsuit of armor hampering him in battle

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    A Viking the explorers, warriors, merchants, and pirates who raided and

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

    A Vikingthe explorers, warriors, merchants, and pirates who raided and

    colonized wide areas of Europe from the late eighth to the early eleventh

    century.

    http://images.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://www.eteamz.com/NorthVikings/images/VikingsHeadShadow.JPG&imgrefurl=http://www.eteamz.com/NorthVikings/news/index.cfm?cat=257400&usg=__Bn_l1_dkbgyVNt0V4KSD_KapEzU=&h=368&w=360&sz=15&hl=en&start=2&um=1&tbnid=30VXhTz20IVlsM:&tbnh=122&tbnw=119&prev=/images?q=Vikings&hl=en&sa=N&um=1
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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

    Eleventh Century; Knights and Soldiers - First Crusade

    Roman Catholic popes

    encouraged Christian Kingsand knights to undertakemilitary expedition or crusadeto capture holy landfrom theMuslims land at the easternend of the Mediterranean seawhere Jesus lived. also holyto Jews and Muslims.

    Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries - Military and Religious Orders

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

    Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries - Military and Religious OrdersThe great military orders had their origin in the crusades, from which

    they retain the common badge of every order of knighthood -- thecross worn on the breast.

    Order of St. John of Jerusalem

    (Hospitallers) - Females

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    Crusaders conquered much of holy landand Jerusalem in 1099.

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    From : Kingdom of Heaven

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    The elegance of the Orient, with its silks, tapestries, precious stones, perfumes,

    spices, pearls, and ivory, was so enchanting that an enthusiastic crusader called it"the vestibule of Paradise.

    The Crusades were therefore one of the principal fostering influences of Chivalry.

    Contact with the culture of the East provided a general refining influence.

    In addition to the effects of the crusades on material development various arts,

    manufactures, and inventions before unknown in Europe, were introduced from

    Asia. This enrichment of the civilization of the West with the "spoils of the East"can be seen in the artefacts displayed in modern European museums.

    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

    Socialknighthood

    The Knights Templar were a

    monastic military orderformed at the end of the FirstCrusade with the mandate ofprotecting Christian pilgrimson route to the Holy Land.

    After the crusades were over,

    the knights returned to theirChapters throughout Europeand became known asmoneylenders to themonarchs.

    In the process manyhistorians believe theyinvented the Banking System.

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    Clothing

    The clothing of this period was Frankish costume was derived from Teutonic

    or Roman clothing

    As in the previous centuries, two styles of dress existed side-by-side formen:

    A short (knee-length) costume deriving from a melding of theeveryday dress of the later Roman Empire

    The short tunics worn by the invading barbarians,

    long (ankle-length) costume descended from the clothing of theRoman upper classes and influenced by Byzantine dress

    The differences in the Byzantine and Western dress in the years between

    the sixth and eleventh centuries are the differences in ornament, headdress,and length of particular garments.

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    Men costume

    Newly fashionable were short, fitted garments

    for the upper body, worn under the tunic: the

    doublet, made of two layers of linen, and an

    early form of quilted and paddedjupeor gipon.

    The sleeveless surcoat or cyclaswas

    introduced during this period as protectivecovering for armour (especially against the

    sun) during the Crusades.

    Fur was worn as an inside lining for warmth.

    Vair, the fur of the squirrel, was particularly

    popular and can be seen as a white and blue-

    grey softly striped or checkered pattern lining

    the mantles of the wealthy

    Richard the Lion heart is portrayed in a long

    tunic with tight sleeves and a mantle, late 12th

    century.

    Charlemagne wore the traditional inconspicuous and distinctly non-

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/49/Richard_coeurdelion_g.jpg
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    Charlemagne wore the traditional, inconspicuous and distinctly non-

    aristocratic costume of the Frankish people

    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    Charlemagne and Pope Adrian I

    He used to wear the Frank

    dress: next to his skin a linen

    shirt and linen breeches, and

    above these a tunic fringed

    with silk; while hose fastened

    by bands covered his lower

    limbs, and shoes his feet,

    and he protected his

    shoulders and chest in winter

    by a close-fitting coat of otteror marten skins.

    http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d6/Charlemagne_and_Pope_Adrian_I.jpg
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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    Underclothes consisted of an inner tunic

    (French chemise) or shirt with long, tight

    sleeves, and drawers or braies,usuallyof linen.

    Tailored cloth leggings called chausses

    or hosemade as separate garments for

    each leg, were often worn with the tunic;

    striped hose were popular

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Hunterian_Psalter_c._1170_Gemini.jpg
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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    Men wore knee-length tunicsfor most activities,

    Men of the upper classes wore long tunics with hose and

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    Men of the upper classes wore long tunics, with hoseand

    mantles or cloaks.

    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    long and short tunics and hose or leggings,. The king wears a

    l li d i i ( i l f ) f d h ld

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    mantle linedin vair(squirrel fur) fastened on one shoulder, c.

    1180.

    Th F k h d h t i ti h t ll d " i " hi h b l

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/Hortus_Deliciarum_-_Antichrist.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:New_Minster_Charter_966_detail_Edgar.jpg
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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    The Franks had a characteristic short cape called a "saie",which barely

    came to the waist.

    Shoes, not alwaysworn by the poor,were mostly thesimple turnshoe-typically a cowhide

    sole and softerleather upper, whichwere sewn together,and then turnedinside out.

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5f/Weinbau_-_Psalter_1180_March_2.jpg
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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    short tunics and chausses/hose.

    The "cappa"or chaperon, a one-piece hood and cape over theshoulders was worn for cold weather, The man on the left wears a hoodover a linen coif, Normandy

    Women clothing

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5f/Weinbau_-_Psalter_1180_March_2.jpg
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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    Women's clothing consistedof an undertunic called achemise, chainseor smock,usually of linen, over whichwas worn one or more ankle-to-floor length tunics (alsocalled gowns or kirtles).

    A new fashion, the bliautgiron, arose in mid-century:this gown is cut in two pieces,a fitted upper portion with afinely pleated skirt attached to

    a low waistband.

    Women clothing..

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    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    With the coming of Christianity, women were expected tocover their hair, at least in public, with a loose shoulder cape,

    mantle or kerchief.

    It appears that fur was mostly worn out of sight, as a lining,or perhaps like the fur waistcoats known from the later

    Middle Ages.

    Figure showing the trumpet-sleeved bliaut characteristic of

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    Figure showing the trumpet-sleeved bliaut characteristic of

    the later 12th century,

    Women of the French courtwore a loosely fitted tuniccalled a cotteor the form-fitting bliaut over a fullchemise with tight sleeves.

    The bliaut had a flaring skirtand sleeves tight to theelbow and then widening towrist in a trumpet shape.

    A bliaut apparently cut inone piece from neckline to

    hem has visible side-lacingand is belted at the naturalwaistline.

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f6/Hortus_Deliciarum_Grammatica.jpg
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    Joan of Arc Death at the

    Stake.

    Carolingians 700 800

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    Carolingians - 700-800

    Tenth Century/ Eleventh Century France Frankish King and Queen

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    Tenth Century/ Eleventh Century - France Frankish King and Queen

    Frankish Noblewomen/ Emperor Henry II Frankish Bishop

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    Frankish Noblewomen/ Emperor Henry II, Frankish Bishop

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    English Armor and Lady of

    the 13th Century

    Summary..

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    The main feature of the period was the meeting of late Roman

    costume with the invading peoples who moved into Europe over thisperiod.

    For a period of several centuries, people in many countries dresseddifferently depending on whether they identified with the oldRomanized population, or the new populations such as Franks,

    Anglo-Saxons Visigoths.

    The most easily recognizable difference between the two groupswas in male costume, where the invading peoples generally woreshort tunics, with belts, and visible trousers, hose or leggings.

    The Romanized populations, and the Church, remained faithful tothe longer tunics of Roman formal costume, coming below the knee,and often to the ankles.

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    1300-1500 Gothic Chivalry

    Burgundian fashion

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    The Gothic period, ranging from the 12th century to the 15th

    century is characterized by idealism and naturalism, where for

    example, sculptures in France of the gothic period show a dynamic

    variety of poise, detail, and articulation.

    The gothic style succeeded the Romanesque as the most popular

    contemporary art form in Europe, and prevailed in most countries.

    The word 'gothic' is very old, and was used from the Renaissance

    on to signify the art style of the Middle Ages. It was named after the

    German tribe of the Goths, who once had invaded Italy and so had

    broken up the Roman Empire

    The Gothic style succeeded the Romanesque period and was in turn

    succeeded by the Renaissance It reached its highest artistic

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    succeeded by the Renaissance. It reached its highest artistic

    achievements in Northern and Western Europe from the mid-12th

    century until as late as the end of the 15th century.

    Salisbury Cathedral hasthe tallest spire in England

    Interior of San Zanipolo,VeniceThe western faade of

    Reims Cathedral, France

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Salisbury_Cathedral_exterior.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Venezia_Chiesa_Zanipolo_int_a.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Reims_Kathedrale.jpg
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    The costumes of Gothic time are usually divided into two periods:

    Early Gothic and

    Late Gothic.

    Necklines were lower, a little at first and trimming was not so heavy asbefore. The heavy double-sleeve went out by 1200 and the forearm wasrevealed because sleeves became tight.

    Shorter tunics emerged and the cote reached to the knee and a little above

    it but women's clothing was invariably long.

    The period changed from the earlier flowing draperies thatmetamorphosed, finally, into fabrics that became more and more stiff.

    In the fifteenth century the extremes were in mostly the upper silhouette.

    There were crisp pleats, tight belts, padded doublets, and increasinglypopular leg-o-mutton sleeve, all the items foreshadowing the squareness ofthe next hundred years.

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    Colors for this period arejewel like huesmuch like painting from Jan van Eyke'swork.

    The colors were reds, greens, blues andgolds, soft but intense.Interspersed withthese colors were brown gray and tan ofhumbler garments.

    One particular color that could associatewith the earlier period would bevermillion.

    Material

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    Although woolwas used for the outer layers of clothing, linen, made from the flax

    plant, was generally used for clothing that was directly in contact with the skin, as it

    was not as coarse as wool and therefore much more pleasant. Unlike wool, linen

    could also be laundered and bleached in the sun. Cotton,imported raw from Egypt

    and elsewhere, was used for padding and quilting, and cloths such as buckram and

    fustian.

    The well-off could afford woven brocadesfrom Italy or even further. Fashionable

    Italian silks of this period featured repeating patterns of roundels and animals,

    deriving from Ottoman silk-weaving centres in Bursa, and ultimately from Yuan

    Dynasty China via the Silk Road.

    Material..

    13th century clothing features long, belted tunics

    ith t tl i i t l

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    with surcoats or mantles in various styles.

    ChaperonA caped hood with long tail,or liripipe, worn with the face opening

    around the head

    Cote-hardieA shaped garment, tight-fitting around the shoulder, waist andhips.

    PourpointA short jacket with tightsleeves buttoned from elbow to wrist,worn under the cote-hardie

    DoubletA short jacket worn under aclosefitting pour point, when used as anouter garment it was padded and had a

    short skirt. TippetA band sewn around the elbow

    of the cote-hardie sleeve with the endhanging as a streamer

    http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/images/chaperon.jpghttp://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/garments/Charles_blois/pourpoint.jpg
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    HouppelandeA loose and

    comfortable gown of greatsize

    One style worn by men had

    long, flowing , bell shaped

    sleeves, a long fitted waist,

    and floor length or long skirt

    slit to the knees; another

    style, known as the bastard

    houppelandewas only to

    calf length.

    A high standing collar was

    usually a part of this

    flamboyant costume.

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/43/Cotton_Claudius_B_VII_f.224_Merlin_Vortigern.jpg
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    Young Merlin wears a short

    tunic with a rectangular cloak

    or mantle and hose.

    King Vortigern wears a

    mantle draped over both

    shoulders over along gown

    or tunic and shoes with

    straps at the instep.

    Blond hairwas popular so

    many people bleached their

    hair. Men in the late Gothic

    period wore hair bobbed also

    with neatly curled ends and

    more men began wearing

    beards that were neatlytrimmed accompanied by a

    small mustache.

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/43/Cotton_Claudius_B_VII_f.224_Merlin_Vortigern.jpg
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    Late Gothic Men..

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    The innermost layer of clothing

    were the breeches, a looseundergarment, usually made of

    linen, which was held up by a belt.

    Next came the shirt, which was

    generally also made of linen, and

    which was considered an

    undergarment, like the breeches.

    A doubletwas a buttoned jacket

    that was generally of hip length.

    Similar garments were called ,

    pourpoint,jaquetaorjubn., These

    garments were worn over the shirt

    and the hose.

    CrackowsA long-tipped hose andshoe

    .

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    Hoseor chaussesmade out of

    wool were used to cover the

    legs, and were generallybrightly colored,, and often had

    leather soles, so that they did

    not have to be worn with shoes

    Hose were generally tied to the

    breech belt, or to the breechesthemselves, or to a doublet

    Fourteenth Century

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    y

    Bridegroom wears a red cotehardie, hose, and hood, Italy, 1350s,

    Huntsman wears side lacing boots late 14th century

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    Huntsman wears side-lacing boots, late 14th century

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/33/37-svaghi_cacciaTaccuino_Sanitatis_Casanatense_4182_cacciatore..jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f5/Bologna_marriage_men.jpg
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    Italian fashion of the 1470s features short

    gowns worn over doublets, and hats of

    many shapes.

    http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/Botticelli_magi_detail.jpg
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    WOMEN..

    Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalor

    Dress for women was restrained.A floor length, loosely-

    fitted gown with long tight sleeves and a narrow belt was

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9f/Maciejowski_Bible_Woman.jpg
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    fitted gown, with long, tight sleeves and a narrow belt, was

    uniform.

    Over this was worn the cyclasor sleeveless surcoat(also

    worn by men).

    Women wear linen headdresses or wimples and veils,

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/af/Peterborough_Psalter_c_1220-25_Mercy_and_Truth_detail_.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/af/Peterborough_Psalter_c_1220-25_Mercy_and_Truth_detail_.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9f/Maciejowski_Bible_Woman.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/21/Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_juin_haymaking.jpg
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    Women raking hay

    work barefoot and

    wear their kirtles

    looped up over long-

    sleeved linen

    smocks,

    Full bodied houppelandes with

    http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/21/Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_juin_haymaking.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d3/Les_Tres_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_avril_detail.jpg
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    Full-bodied houppelandes with

    voluminous sleeves worn with

    elaborate headdresses are

    characteristic of the earlier 15thcentury.

    Gown kirtle and chemise

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d3/Les_Tres_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_avril_detail.jpg
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    Gown, kirtle, and chemise

    The tight

    slashed

    sleeves reveal

    the fullchemise

    sleeves

    beneath

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b3/Gallegocatholicmonarchs_isabella.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ca/Giovanna_Tornabuoni_full_length.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a4/Petrus_Christus_004_detail.jpg
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    Fur-trimmed Burgundian

    gown of mid-century has

    a V-neck that displays

    the black kirtle and a

    band of the chemise.

    Hair is pulled back in an

    embroidered hennin andcovered by a short veil.

    Long gowns of the

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a4/Petrus_Christus_004_detail.jpghttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/33/Juanalaloca.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/08/Meister_der_tiburtinischen_Sibylle_001_detail.jpg
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    Long gowns of the

    1480s are carried

    looped up to allow

    walking,

    displaying the

    kirtle beneath.

    royal ermine-trimmed

    sideless surcoat and a

    symbolic mantle

    Parti-coloringA multi-colored garment, often with one

    side embroidered based on the colors and the emblems

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/33/Juanalaloca.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/08/Meister_der_tiburtinischen_Sibylle_001_detail.jpg
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    side embroidered based on the colors and the emblems

    in a coat of arms.

    DiaperingPuttingprecious gems

    and stones ona garment insimple orelaboratepatterns mostoftenrecognized by

    a diamondpattern.

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/30/Codex_manesse_hawking.jpg
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    Woman wears a

    pink sleeveless

    gown (Surcoat)

    over a green

    kirtle, with a linen

    veil and white

    gloves

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/30/Codex_manesse_hawking.jpg
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    EscoffinAs tall, richly

    brocaded headdress,

    sometimes shaped like two

    horns, sometimes like a narrow,tall turban; usually had a veil of

    fine lawn about a yard wide.

    Burgundian Court Dress: HenninA truncated cone or steeple

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    headdress with a veil completely covering the female hairdo.

    wear heart shaped

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f2/Isabella_of_portugal.jpg
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    wear heart-shaped

    headdresses with veils and

    belted, fur-lined gowns open at

    the front to display thechemises beneath, Burgundy,

    144550.

    d l h dd d f h k

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f2/Isabella_of_portugal.jpg
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    PomanderA ball or hollow

    ornament often made of filigree,containing a sponge of perfume,suspended from a necklace orgirdle.

    RoundelA headdress made of a thickroll of material with a scarf or liripipehanging down one side and draped overthe shoulder.

    Later in the period women's necks

    were exposed but their hair was

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    covered by netting or reticulations

    like round cages.

    No hair was visible and was

    plucked to have a high hairlineand thin eyebrows.

    Many Italian women wear their

    hair twisted with cord or ribbon

    and bound around their heads

    In the earily period women would wear many types of hair pieces to

    it h i l d t Th t ld t ll

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/40/Giotto_joachim_detail.jpg
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    cover it, such as wimple and gorget. The gorget would actually cover

    the neck while the wimple would cover the head.

    http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e9/Meister_des_Jouvenel_des_Ursins_001_detail_2.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/37/Hugo_van_der_Goes_004_detail1.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c6/Meister_des_Jouvenel_des_Ursins_001_detail_1.jpg
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    liripipe

    Maria Portinari wears a truncated cone

    hennin with a veil draped over the back.

    The black loop on her forehead is thought

    to be part of the wire frame that balances

    the hennin.

    Women..1450 Germany In this period The Dukes of Burgundy,

    members of the French Royal House of Valois

    http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e9/Meister_des_Jouvenel_des_Ursins_001_detail_2.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/37/Hugo_van_der_Goes_004_detail1.jpghttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_2//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c6/Meister_des_Jouvenel_des_Ursins_001_detail_1.jpg
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    Houppelande:The woman's version of this robe had

    a soft, open collar, a short waist, a full skirt, and a

    long flowing sleeves.

    y

    Houppelande

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    Women spinning

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