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INTRODUCTION

TO

FASHION &

APPAREL

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ESSENTIALGARMENT

CONSTRUCTION

STITCH TYPES

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STITCH TYPES- Definition

One unit of conformation of

thread resulting fromrepeatedly passing a strand

or strands and/or loops ofthread into or through a

material.

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STITCH TYPES:

BS3870: Part I: 1991,

Stitches are catalogued into SIXclasses.

The International Organisation for

Standardisation uses the identical

numbering (ISO 4915:1991: Textiles-Stitchtypes Classification and Terminology).

CLASSIFICATION

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STITCH TYPES: terms

Intralooping - Passing of a loop

of thread through another loop

formed by the same thread, e.g.stitch type 101.

Interlooping - Passing of a loop

of thread through another loopformed by a different thread, e.g.stitch type 401.

Interlacing - Passing of a

thread over or around another

thread or loop of another thread,e.g. stitch type 301.

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STITCH TYPES: formed

Without material

Inside Material

Through Material

On material

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Stitch classes are designated and

identified by the first digit of a "3- digit numerals system".

Types of stitch within each class

are designated and identified by:2nd and 3rd digit

STITCH TYPES: Designation

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STITCH TYPES:

Formed with one or more needle

threads introduced from one side ofthe material only.

Loop/loops of thread is/are passed

through the material and secured

by intralooping with succeeding

loop/loops at the underside of the

material.

Class 100 - Chain Stitches

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STITCH TYPES:


Component - Needle thread.

Property - Chain stitch is elastic, and

thicker than lockstitch. It can easily be

ravelled; particular care is required toprevent runback from the last stitch.

Application - Temporary stitching (e.g.

basting) or for blind stitching.

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STITCH TYPES:


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STITCH TYPES:

Class 200 - Hand StitchesFormed by single thread passed from one side

of the material to the other in successive needle

penetrations.

Thread passes through the material as a single

line and the stitch is secured by the succeedingformation of thread which passing in and out of

the material or intralooping of the threads with

themselves.

When more than one thread is used, the threads

pass through the same perforations in thematerial.

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STITCH TYPES:

Class 200 - Hand Stitches

Component - Needle (hand) thread.Application - Handwork.

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Formed by a needle thread or

threads, introduced from oneside of the material, interlacing

with an under thread suppliedfrom a bobbin on the other side.

Class 300 Lockstitches

STITCH TYPES:

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STITCH TYPES:

Class 300 Lockstitches

Components: Needle thread.

Bobbin thread.

Property - Low bulk and thin, good

strength & abrasion resistance. Poor

elasticity, non-ravel.

Disadvantage- Limited sewing length, need

to replace the bobbin.

Applications - For seams requiring stretch.

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Formed with two/more groups of

threads having for a generalcharacteristic the interlacing &

interlooping of the loops of the two

groups.Loops of the 1st group of threads are

passed through the material & aresecured by interlacing & interloping

with loops of the succeeding group ofthread to form a stitch.

Class 400 - Multi-thread Chain stitches

STITCH TYPES:

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STITCH TYPES:

Class 400 - Multi-thread Chain stitchesDiffer from Class 100 stitch types.

Component: 1.Needle thread.

2.Looper thread.

Property: Non-ravel; strong, good elasticity,less likely to cause seam pucker due tostructural jamming; good seam stretch;

does not need to wind bobbin.

Disadvantages: lower resistance to runback

and have increased bulk under the seam.

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Formed with one/more needle and/or

looper threads with at least one thread

passing round the edge of the material

being sewn.

Loops of one group of thread are passed

through the material & are secured, by

interlooping with loops of one/moreinterlooped groups of threads before

succeeding threads loops of the first groupare again passed through the material.

Class 500, Overlock/Overedge Stitches

STITCH TYPES:

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STITCH TYPES:

Class 500, Overlock/Overedge StitchesComponent: Needle thread must

Looper thread shouldCover thread could

Property: Excellent stretchable,good recovery.

Application:

Seam neatening/edge neatening, suitable formany types of fabric, subject tofraying/slippage.

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STITCH TYPES:

Class 600 Covering chain

Formed with two/more groups of threads

and has for a general characteristic that twogroups of thread cover both surfaces of the

material.

There are the utilise between two & fourneedle threads, generally one looper thread

& one/two cover threads. Loops of the 3rd

group cast on the fabric surface & helddown by the needle thread(s) interloped with

loops of the 2nd group of thread on the

underside of the material.

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STITCH TYPES:

Class 600 Covering chainComponent:1. Needle thread must

2. Looper thread must3. Cover thread - should

Property:1. Highly elasticity.2. Seam neatening/flat seam stitch.3. Bulk.4. Fast M/C speed.5. No need to wind bobbin.

6. Greater thread consumption.

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STITCH TYPES:

Class 600 Covering chainApplication:

1. Covering stitches for decorativepurpose.

2. Can be used to joint of 2 raw edges.

3. Suitable for knitted garment.

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STITCH TYPES:

Combination of stitch type:

Formed two or more rows of

stitches of different classes areformed simultaneously in one

operation.

Denoted by using the two individual

stitch type designations, joined with

a dot ".", example: (401.504).

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STITCH TYPES:

Combination of stitch type:Component:

1. Needle thread (must)2. Looper thread.

3. Cover thread (should)

Property: 1. Save time.

2. Save labour.

3. Save cost.

4. More investment.

STITCH TYPES

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STITCH TYPES:MEASUREMENT OF STITCHING QUALITY

The operation of sewing product

must meet certain degrees in termsof quality, for each of these threeareas: -

1. Styles, dimensions for emotional appeal.

2. Utility, dimensions for function.3. Durability,dimensions for the life &

utility aspects.

STITCH TYPES

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STITCH TYPES:

Stitching Quality is measured with:Stitch size:

a. Stitch length- Distance from one stitchjuncture to the next successive stitch juncture inthe sewing line.

b. Stitch width- Distance between theoutermost stitch juncture or distance between

the outermost edges of the lateral threadplacement.

c. Stitch depth- Distance between theupper and lower surfaces of the stitch.

STITCH TYPES

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STITCH TYPES:

Stitching Quality is measured with:

1. Stitch size

2. Stitch tension3. Stitch sequence

4. Elongation

5. Elasticity

6. Resilience

7. Fabric distortion8. Yarn severance

9. Abrasive strength

STITCH TYPES

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STITCH TYPES:

STITCH TYPES

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STITCH TYPES:

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