A WINE LOVER’S TOUR de FRANCE

BARRY JOHNS

Copyright © Barry Johns 2014

Cover Design by Aries Design, Christchurch, New Zealand

Cover image from a photograph identified in Chapter 2

Edited by Macmillan & Prebble, RD3, Akaroa 7583, New Zealand

All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this book may be reproduced, in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner and the eBook publisher.

Published in eBook format by eBookIt.comhttp://www.eBookIt.com

ISBN-13: 978-1-4566-2183-4

Based on a true story.

For those travellers who value the journey before all else.

I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move. ( Robert Louis

Stevenson )

Table of Contents

1. Preparations - Arrival in Paris

2. Paris to Blois – Nante (Loire valley)

3. Nante to Bordeaux – Salat – Bordeaux - Médoc - Bordeaux

4. Bordeaux to Pomerol – St.Émilion – Bergerac – Luzech – Cahors – Caussade – Albi – Gaillac – Toulouse

5. Toulouse to Carcassone - Montpellier – Nimes – Avignon

6. Avignon to Pont-St-Esprit – Valence – Lyon – Macon – Chalon-sur -Saône – Beaune – Dijon

7. Dijon to Reims

8. Paris revisited

9. End of Tour – observations and impressions

1. Preparations - Arrival in Paris

To get away from one’s working environment is, in a sense, to get away from one’s self; and this is often the chief

advantage of travel and change. (Charles Horton Cooley)

It was in late 1988 when Bede Jamieson was informed by his then law partners that it would be his turn to take two months’ extended leave, euphemistically called ‘sabbatical’, the following year. It was left to him to decide at what time of the year he would be away and his actual destination. With a background in French language studies, a recently discovered joy for road cycling and a well-established love of fine wines, his thoughts were that he should undertake a cycling tour of the main wine regions of France – a tour des vignobles, pour ainsi dire ( a tour of the vineyards, so to speak). Bede also had it in mind that should too much cycling prove a hardship, France was a country likely to offer compensations.

At the time he was caught up in the grind of corporate client work in a busy office environment. No matter how hard he worked – and the law is a demanding mistress – he always seemed to be only just staying afloat, both emotionally and professionally. Bede needed an extended period of time out, a change of scene and a bit of adventure. This was his main motivation, coupled with the desire to more fully acquaint himself with things French: the people, the language, the countryside, the food and, of course, the wine.

Back then, Bede could be described as being of medium height and wiry build, he has dark hair, an olive complexion and hazel eyes. He is in his early forties. He has a reputation for his sporting skills, particularly tennis and squash. A man for challenges and not given to failure, Bede is keen to test himself

in every sense as a lone traveller in a country he perceives to be both romantic and culturally significant.

He set about planning his intended journey by reading up on the main wine regions of France and poring over Michelin maps. He drew inspiration from reading a book written by Michael Busselle, The Wine Lover’s Guide to France, published in 1986. Busselle had spent some five months in the two years to 1986, driving almost 50,000 kilometres in and through the vineyards of France, taking photographs and collecting information for his book. Bede wanted to follow at least some of Busselle’s footsteps, though his preferred mode of transport was a bicycle rather than a car. He had recently become actively involved in road cycling and was full of enthusiasm for it. He saw cycling as a great way of maintaining general fitness while allowing him to range far and wide. Travelling by bicycle also had the advantage of considerable cost savings compared with hiring a car for such a journey.

Bede sought the advice of a bicycle retailer as to how best he could set up his 12-speed yellow framed ‘ Greg LeMond ‘ racing bike, fitted with Italian Campagnolo componentry, for such a long and potentially punishing journey. It was decided that he would not carry a backpack when cycling, and that his possessions and gear would be stored in two panniers attached to a lightweight metal carrier fitted over the rear wheel. He had already decided to take his own bicycle rather than buy one in France. It was light but strong, and his correct frame size. It was, and still is, a familiar and reliable friend.

To transport his bike, Bede purchased a sac à vélo ( cycle bag ) made of lightweight synthetic fabric measuring some 1.2 metres by 0.9 metres and with shoulder straps. By releasing the front wheel and removing one pedal shaft he would be able to pack the complete bicycle in the carry bag and take it as accompanying baggage when the time came to take to the skies.

He also compiled a list of clothing and equipment he would need on such a journey and that could be squeezed into two panniers. In the end this list came down to the following items:

• Michelin maps

• Michael Busselle’s The Wine Lover’s Guide to France

• the Berlitz French for Travellers (a phrase book)

• a Swiss pocketknife

• a lightweight shower-proof windjacket (K-Way)

• a cycling top, pants and shoes

• one pair of casual-wear shoes

• one pair of cotton, long-legged trousers

• one casual, cotton, long-sleeved shirt

• T-shirts (assorted)

• socks and underwear

• a woollen jersey

• toiletries, including a battery-operated shaver

• Carrera sunglasses

• a first aid kit

• two replacement tubeless tyres

• a cycle security lock

• a Collins pocket diary

• a Nikon RF 35mm camera.

As well as gathering together his belongings, he had a weekly session with his French tutor to help prepare him linguistically for the journey.

Bede flew Singapore Airlines on Monday 1 May 1989 bound for Paris. His partner, Jane, had given her ‘little darkie’ an

affectionate send-off, overlaid with expressions such as ‘bonne chance’ and ‘bon voyage’ as he proceeded to international departures and the first of many customs and security checks along the way. His air travels were to take him to Singapore for a brief stopover at Changi Airport, to Dubai in the Arab Emirates, then to Rome and Paris. He eventually touched down at Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle Airport in Paris at 9.45 am local time on 2 May, after 30 hours’ flying time. The airport was crowded and noisy at that time of day, but the passengers were processed through the immigration counters efficiently and then left to find their own way through the milling crowds of similarly bewildered tourists and travellers spread out over a number of levels of the airport facilities. Many had friends or contacts waiting for them, who could be seen holding up cards with names written on them to attract their attention. The mood was one of unrestrained excitement and activity – with shouted welcomes and joyful responses.

Bede was to put the locals’ goodwill towards les étrangers ( foreigners ) to the test within minutes of his arrival when he had difficulty finding his way out of the airport buildings and getting to the metro connection to the city. A Monsieur Salot, who worked as a security officer at the airport and who had finished his shift for the day, came to his aid and accompanied Bede to his hotel in the Rue de Chabrol, close to the Gare de l’Est. This trip took him out of his way and left Bede with a very positive feeling towards the French people from the outset.

This positive feeling was further enhanced when Bede checked in to the Hôtel Parisiana and receiving the warmest of welcomes from Veronique, la réceptionniste. Before he could finish saying “Je m’appelle Bede Jamieson, j’ai réservé pour deux nuits”, Veronique was summoning a porter to help him with his baggage and giving him directions to his room on the second floor overlooking the street. He was to spend two days and

nights in this somewhat jaded but hospitable place. Veronique was petite and slight of build. Her appearance was that of a well-groomed, smartly dressed young woman. Her manner was quiet and serene. Veronique was able to provide much good advice about getting around Paris and the attractions of the 10th arrondissement, in which the hotel is located.

Bede’s first impressions of Paris were of a place full of life and dynamism. The crowded footpaths and roadways busy with vehicles provided a sea of constant movement, colour and sound. For Bede, the most immediate and obvious symbols of Paris’ peculiar brand of dynamism were to be found in the buildings. Even the rooftops, many fashioned in the characteristic double-pitched mansard style, had a special charm and appeal of their own.

His second night in Paris was spent eating out at L’Enchotte, a café in the Rue de Chabrol. He enjoyed a simple but well-prepared meal consisting of a noisette of beef fillet, fired in butter and served with Anna potatoes, artichoke hearts and French green beans, washed down with a pichet ( jug ) of red wine. Bede was in bed early and jet lag was not a problem after that.

He woke at 5.00 am the next morning, excited and ready for the journey proper to begin. He had to hold himself in check until petit déjeuner at 7.00 am. This consisted of the usual light, fluffy croissant, jam, and a large cup of café noir. By 8.00 am Bede was on the road cycling his way through the quiet streets of Paris towards the Gare d’Austerlitz. It was a bank holiday.

As he neared the Gare d’Austerlitz he came upon an area of heavily cobbled roadway. It was at this point that one of the panniers fell off. There he was, stranded in the middle of the road with cars racing around him as he scrambled to recover the fallen bag and his composure. In the process his bicycle, which was by now unbalanced and awkward to manoeuvre, reared up,

with the result that the chainwheel gouged into his right calf, causing a nasty flesh wound.

He eventually managed to retrieve the situation and limped to the side of the road. Throughout this whole episode a gendarme had been quietly observing the incident but without making any effort to intervene or come to his aid. When he initiated conversation with the gendarme in his best French and lightly spoke of being on a tour des vignobles and a lover of rugby, the gendarme lightened up a little, uncrossed his arms from across his chest and wished Bede a bonne journée. Clearly not the same interest in his welfare as shown by M. Salot, but not unexpected given the face of the French enforcement authorities.

What a way to start. There he was not even out of Paris, yet already injured and somewhat chastened by the whole experience. The wound to his right leg was not to completely heal and disappear for about eight days, by which time he had completed his tour of the Loire Valley.