Documenta

University of the Philippines

Ermita, Manila

SPANISH AND AMERICAN ARCHITECTURE IN MANILA

Submitted by: Gerald P. Santos

Submitted to: Ms. Regatta Antonio

Spanish and American Architecture in Manila2

Function, permanence and aesthetics: these define the aspects of architecture. At first, it only

existed to have function; but with the advent of man’s intellectual evolution and longing for

beauty, there existed permanence and aesthetics.

Architecture provides a basic shelter for man. In the Philippines, for that matter, it started on

simple bahay kubo until we came up to the magnificent National Art Gallery building. It was a

celebrated success of colonial architectural movements but temporarily interfered by a series of

unfortunate events.

The city of Manila, the capital of the Philippines, was said to be ravaged by colonization,

bombings, earthquakes, bombings again, another occupation and another bombings. These may

be the reason of tragic history of Manila and mixed cultural and social influences. But still,

Manila managed to handle and stand through guns and fires.

But Manila of today is

way different from

yesterday’s Manila.

Intramuros (inside the

walls) was the Spanish

Manila. It occupied a

piece of land with an

area of 64 hectares and resembled an irregular pentagon. The city was also known as Ciudad

Murada or Ciudad de Manila. On the other hand, Extramuros (outside the walls ) , consisted of

araballes or suburbs. This portion is referred to as Provincia de Manila.


Intramuros, being the country’s center of government and religion, was greatly influenced by

changes brought by Spanish colonizers. One of the elements that had changed was the

architectural tradition.

The structures built under this period could be classified into four main groups: ecclesiastical,

military, social and civil.

Churches were the most widespread structures built. These of course were to help Spanish

colonizers in proclaiming the word of God and to

take in charge in converting unpacified places.

Intramuros had seven churches, excluding the ones

demolished under Spanish regime.

The seven churches were: Manila Cathedral, San

Agustin Church, Santo Domingo Church, San

Francisco Church, Church of Recollects, San

Ignacio and Lourdes Church.

Churches were either designed following

Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. For example, the Manila Cathedral was in

Romanesque, San Agustin in Baroque and Santo Domingo in Gothic style.

These buildings were arranged according to a plan. Atypical church in this time had the

following parts: (1) A nave or central aisle, (2) An apse, which houses the altar, (3) A choir loft

which occupies the space above the main entrance behind the façade. It often spans just like the

width of the church. (4) A bell tower, (5) transepts and (6) baptistry.


Even before the arrival of Spaniards, city fortifications had been made by Rajah Soliman. This

fort is located on the delta at the mouth of the Pasig River. The delta was protected by lantakas

or small brass cannons and fortified by palisade of earth and coconut logs.

Soliman, realizing the superiority of the conquistadores, left his fort. Thus, Legazpi had a

bloodless conquest and easy claiming of Manila in 1571.

June 24 of the same year marked the declaration of Legazpi designating Manila as the capital

of the newly conquered land. King Philipp II granted the city’s coat of arms and a title of

“ Insigne y siempre leal ciudad” ( Distinguished and Ever Loyal City) . The king also entitled

Legazpi to as being an Adelantado.

Under the orders of Governor General Gomez Perez Dasmarinas in 1590’s, they replaced the

ruins of Soliman’s fortifications a new military defense station. The constructed fort guarded the

mouth of the Pasig River. This fort was named after Spain’s patron saint, Santiago. Together

with this is the start of building the walls enclosing Manila. The construction of walls almost

took 250 years (1590 to 1830) under successive governor generals.

Aside from forts, additional defenses were also made for the safety of the newly established

acropolis. These were the Casamatas or a platform where cannons and other artillery were aimed

outwards. Also, bastions and revelins were built. A foso or a moat surrounded the entire

fortification.

Being the country’s center of political, educational and religious orders, many buildings for

civil purposes were built in Intramuros. Civil structures could be for government or

administrative offices, social purposes or commercial use.


Just beside the Plaza Mayor, two of the most important government buildings of the land

could be found. One was the Casa del Ayuntamiento, the seat of Manila’s administration. Facing

the Ayuntamiento was the residence of the highest ranking official of the central government, the

Palacio del Gobernador.

The Ayuntamiento served for social and administrative functions. Its grand hall was often used

for festive occasions and other public activities. The elegance of the city hall was testified by its

grand escalera and portal.

The Governor General’s

residence housed the Real

Audiencia or Tribunal. The

governor lived here with his

family but not until the

earthquake of 1863. This

earthquake was so powerful

that it had change the whole Manila. It destructed many buildings including the Palacio del

Gobernador. The Palacio was never built; instead the Governor General’s residence was

transferred to Malacanang just across the Pasig River.

The two administrative buildings were both made of stone, had two levels and spacious inner

courtyards.

The Hospital San Juan de Dios was considered the first hospital in Manila. It was under the

Franciscans before it was handled by the Order of San Juan de Dios.


Religious orders administered not only in the

religious aspect but also in the educational

field. Churches may have a beaterio for

young girls who chose to live secluded lives

or a seminary for boys.

At least six schools were established inside

the walls. All were handled by religious

orders. These were: Beaterio- Colegio de

Santa Catalina, Colegio de Santa Isabel, Colegio de Santa Potenciana and Colegio de Santa

Rosa. These were all for girls. For boys, there were: Colegio de San Juan de Letran, Colegio de

San Jose which later became the Ateneo Municipal and Letran’s rival, and Universidad de Santo

Tomas.

Aside from churches, Spanish architectural style was greatly seen on houses. Houses were of

two stories, a box-like structure partly made of wood and stone. This style was developed by the

combination of Filipino-Hispanic styles and later known as Arquitectura Mestiza.This structure

was so-called as “bahay na bato” (house of stone). It was said that it resembles Antillan houses

or others say it was Mediterranean. This type of houses is characterized by their volada, a

protruding balcony overhanging the ground floor.

Spaniards brought and developed the practice of partitioning. Thus, every part of the house

had its own use. Entry to house was permitted through the zaguan, a hall on the ground floor.

Horses were housed in a cuadra or stable. It was in bodega or storage room where palay bins

were stored. Just a meter above the ground was the entresuelo. Access in this mezzanine was


only done by the master of the house. This served as his or her office, vault for jewelries and

money or bedroom. Walking on the steps of the escalera or staircase would lead you to caida or

antesala. Informal entertaining of guests held here. Larger than the caida was the sala, which

occupied the largest room inside the house. At one end of sala was the comedor, the dining

room, which led to cocina or kitchen. Adjacent to kitchen was the dispensa, a room for food

storage. Latrina (toilet) was separated from baño or paliguan. Extending the baño was the

azotea. It is a flat terrace usually used as a drying area for laundry or service area for servants.

Bedrooms back then were referred to as a cuarto, alcoba or dormitorio.

Going out through on of the gates of Intramuros would lead you to an entirely different world.

Here, in Extramuros, ordinary people inhabited the arraballes. This larger piece of land once had

a series of settlements along the moat and the shoreline that surrounded the walls. It covered an

area from today’s Luneta to Liwasang Bonifacio.

Originally, Extramuros consisted of at least six suburbs. The identified ones were:

Bagumbayan, Santiago which became part of the larger Bagumbayan now, San Juan, which

occupied the rest of Rizal Park and extending to National Museum. The San Fernando de Dilao

covered the present Manila City Hall up to Philippine Normal University. Adamson University,

the Sweepstakes Office and Hotel Mirador were once a part of San Miguel. Lastly, the Parian, at

the banks of Pasig (Post Office Building, Plaza Lawton, Metropolitan Theatre and Jardin

Botanico).

Binondo, Quiapo and Santa Cruz churches were examples of extramural churches. These

religious structures made the identity of its respective districts. It unified the community and

taught the people of independence. The start of Filipino nation began in this setting.


For added security, San Antonio Abad was installed. It was built after the British trial of

conquest. This fort was also known as La Polvorista Abad for it was used as a powder

storehouse.

Hospicio de San Jose and Asilo de San Vicente de Paul were both charitable institutions for

the disabled. It had spacious buildings, wide inner courtyards and a central chapel. Hospicio,

stood on an island on Pasig River.

Hospitals were also established outside the walls. Hospital de San Gabriel was for the Chinese

in Binondo. This was one of the results of segregation attempts of Spanish government to the

Chinese people. Another was the Hospital de San Lazaro in Santa Cruz. It was a home for lepers

back then.

Parian was the commercial nucleus of Manila for two centuries. It reflected the creativity of

the Chinese people in Manila. This was also a result of segregation attempts. According to

Bishop Domingo Salazar, it is at first a marsh land near Santo Domingo in Intramuros. Then, it

consequently changed into a silk market, porcelain factories, tool shops and hardware stores. He

said that he found the finest imitations here.

The Chinese quarters had four rows of buildings and houses. Each building was separated by

streets. The buildings were quadrangle in shape.

Across the river, the Alacaiceria de San Fernando once stood. This had shops for Chinese

merchants. The edifice was described to be octagonal in shape.


At the half of the 19th century, a new commercial district flourished. In this time, Escolta is the

most important business district in Manila. Here, prestigious and large companies stood. It is the

shopping capital of those who are in the alta de sociedad.

Fine dining and luxurious stay were offered by Hotel de Oriente, the finest hotel in Manila.

Rizal used to stay here.

La Insular Cigar and Cigarette Factory was described to exhibit intricate Moorish motifs.

Aduana, the customs office was built along the banks of Pasig. Banks like Banco Español-

Filipino de Isabel II and

Monte de Piedad moved from

their original offices.

These architectural

developments started from the

lowly bahay kubo (nipa hut)

which was the basic form of shelter for ordinary Filipinos. Huts were lined along the moat and

bay. It was a room dwelling supported by posts on each side. It was intended to be built above

the ground for protection against snakes. The floor was made up of bamboo slats with spaces for

ventilation and cooling.

The plan for a bahay kubo includes: a bulwagan, a receiving room, a silid or bedroom.

Cooking area or kitchen is called paglutuan or gilir. Silong is used for storage. Usually, the

kitchen is at the rear of the house with following features: a dapogan or stove, bangahan for

drying and storing kitchen utensils and a batalan where water jars were kept.


The Europeans developed and introduced the idea of planning. The house had different rooms,

partitioned from one another. Each had its own use for each house works. Monumentality is

visible as exemplified by the grand escalera which signifies the social status of the house

masters.

The windows used hinges and partitions. Instead of glass, capiz shells were utilized to serve as

ornaments for windows. Tiles were used for roofing. Masonry revolutionized the pre-Hispanic

architectural traditions. The use of cement and bricks made architecture in a real sense for it

already had permanence. Buildings were not limited only to dwelling but also to ecclesiastical,

military and civil purposes.

They also introduced the idea of town

planning. Buildings were put together in a

square or box like manner as if it were a

chess board. Streets were perpendicular to

each other. Reduccion or resettlements made

churches, administrative offices and schools

surround around a plaza. Residences were put under the church bells. Households nearer the

plaza show that they are included in the high order of society while moving farther is the

opposite.

After many series of events, the Americans started occupying the Philippines. Architecture is

not on the priority list but they still managed to leave us something that we could be proud of.


The Legislative building is one of our happiest moments. It symbolized our readiness to

embrace new ideas. The beauty of this edifice marked the separation between the Spanish

architectural scene and the upcoming new styles.

These achievements were made possible by Daniel Burnham and through his “City Beautiful”

movement.

Burnham’s plan for Manila contained the government center which occupied the Wallace

field. The center will include government offices neighbouring each other for easy access. The

Manila Capitol was also planned to rise up facing the Manila Bay.

Burnham chose William Parsons to

execute the plan. It was funded at 2 million

pesos each year. But Quezon is more

concerned on the irrigation processes and

decided not to continue constructing this

monumental buildings. Thus, only three

units of the proposed plan were built: The Legislative building, which is originally to house the

National Library, and the twin buildings of Finance and Agriculture.

Parsons founded the Bureau of Public Works. The bureau consisted of American and Filipino

architects. Their first project was the Manila Hotel. It was considered as their finest project.

The bureau was also responsible for the erection of The Philippine General Hospital Complex,

The Philippine Normal College and The University of the Philippines.


The University of the Philippines occupied a block at Padre Faura. Most of its buildings were

designed by Filipinos Juan Arellano and Antonio Toledo. The Villamor Hall, which housed the

Fine Arts and Music School, was designed by Juan Arellano. Unlike other buildings designed in

neo-classical style, the Villamor Hall adapted the Renaissance style.

Other government buildings were the Manila City Hall, designed by Antonio Toledo and the

Post Office Building, also by Arellano and considered by some as his masterpiece. Its tall Ionic

colonnade dominated the facade which adds beauty to the whole edifice.

The Intramuros was untouched by the Burnham plan. This is to preserve the historical

significance within its walls. But this preservation failed. The ancient city was bombarded

instead.

It was the feast of the

Immaculate Concepcion but

holy masses were forgotten. The

headlines astonished the

community. The war has

started.

Evacuation drills were held.

Almost one hundred thousand people from Manila moved to province of Rizal for refuge.

Commotion was everywhere.


On December 26, 1941, it was declared that Manila was now an open city. In spite of the

declaration, bombings still happened. The Japanese destroyed the Santo Domingo Church, Santa

Catalina College and other government offices.

The entry happened on the starting day of 1942. At the same time Quezon designated his

executive secretary, Jorge Vargas as the mayor of Greater Manila.

Intramuros was widely destructed. The life had become so tough for the people inside that

they even butchered dogs to make both ends meet. The walled city became a vast torture and

prison cell. Cries could be heard in the silence of the night.

In short, Manila turned into dust.

The once “distinguished and ever loyal city” is

now unidentifiable. Blood and tears flowed over

the devastated land of Manila. The grandiosity of

Manila was gone. No doubt that it is the second

most destroyed city after the World War II

(Warsaw being the most destroyed).

Of all of these, only San Agustin Church was

intact. Almost all other buildings, bridges and churches were in ruins.

Years passed by and most of destructed buildings were reconstructed. Others change their

usage. The former Legislative and Finance buildings became the National Museums. Finance’s

twin, the Agriculture building housed the Department of Tourism. Many buildings in Intramuros

changed into educational and commercial structures. The University of the Manila was once the


site of the Jesuit compound. Lyceum stood on the Hospicio de San Jose’s ruins. The buildings of

UP at Padre Faura became the Justice complex including: NBI, DOJ, Court of Appeals and

Supreme Court. Only the Rizal Hall was left and used.

Others changed their sites. The Ateneo and Manila Observatory also at Padre Faura moved to

Loyola Heights and Quezon City. The Administration office of UP was transferred to 493

hectares of land in Diliman, Quezon City.

Others remained to where they came from. Their beauty still reflected their younger years as if

war did not break out. These

edifices lined across the historic

Manila, the once distinguished

and ever loyal city. The city

which was occupied, struck by an

earthquake, bombed, occupied,

bombed and occupied. It was a

long course of history under

different governments.

Manila is still beautiful. It is a city to be proud of. Appreciating its charm is far more than

exemplified by its architectural treasures. The history told by its walls, pillars, churches tells us

to find our national identity and love what we have. There is no place like Manila. Manila is our

home.


Bibliography

Agoncillo, T. (1990). History of the Filipino People. Quezon City: Garotech Publishing.

Alarcon, N. (1998). Philippine Architecture During the Pre-Spanish and Spanish Periods. Manila: UST

Publishing House.

Aluit, A. (1995). By Sword and Fire: The Destruction of Manila in World War II. Makati: Bookmark.

Concepcion, L. (1967). Architecture in the Philippines. Manila:The National Museum.

Dalton, D. (2007). The Rough Guide to the Philippines. London: Rough Guides.

Joaquin, N. (1999). Manila, My Manila. Manila: Republic of the Philippines.

Jose, R. T. (1992). ARKITEKTURA: An Essay on the Spanish Influence on Philippine Architecture.

Manila: Cultural Center of the Philippines.

Klassen, W. (1986). Architecture in the Philippines: Filipino Building in a Cross-Cultural Context. Cebu:

University of San Carlos.

Salazar, D. (1990). The Chinese and the Parian of Manila. In G. Zaide, Documentary Sources of

Philippine History (Vol. III, pp. 162-168). Manila: Navotas Press.

Tiongson, N. (1994). CCP Encyclopedia of Philippine Art (Vol. III). Manila: Cultural Center of The

Philippines.

Torres, C. (2010). The Americanization of Manila. Quezon City: The University of the Philippines Press.


Torres, J. V. (2005). Ciudad Murada. Manila: Intramuros Administration.

__________ (2009, January-March). Wartime Manila. Gaceta de Intramuros 2(1), pp. 9-10.

Documents

Documenta