A previous visit to the Canaries, as a keen, at best unrefined surfer, left rather a big impression. The island’s exposed westerly shores

kicked up huge Atlantic swells with winds to match. When an opportunity arose to take a week out of the office to do my five day RYA Practical course in tidal waters, I immediately, like any sun loving, vitamin D denied Brit, looked south and found my old friend the Canary Islands. Could the sailing match the excitement previously found off the beaches?

With bags packed I left home in the early hours with Emily, my girlfriend, who kindly drove me to Southampton train station for the 0540 to Gatwick. I’ve always found it funny how, and this only happens in airports, you manage to bump into the same people throughout the journey, check-in, Gate, baggage reclaim, hotel. I know this all seems fairly predictable to a point, but it never fails to entertain. On this particular outward journey, one such person was a gent with Sebago deckshoes and a red Musto Snugg. I had my suspicions at this stage as to where he might be going.

We landed at Tenerife South airport and, counting the pennies, I hopped on the local Titsa bus service to Los Cristianos where a short, five minute walk towards the quay would lead me to the Fast Catamaran service that blasted back and forth to San Sebastian, my destination on La Gomera. Sitting outside on the sundeck, reading my book, I finally relaxed, it was an intensely hot day and the cool sea winds soothed all but one trouble, a need for beer.

Leaving the ferry I couldn’t help but chuckle to myself as I again spotted my friend. Neil, his name turned out to be, and we would be boat buddies for the next six days. We were both greeted by Darrin, a friendly member of the Canary Sail team who helped with bags and took us to our berth on the other side of the marina. There she was, Zuleika, a Bavaria 39c, looking not at all like some of the tired school boats I’d been on previously. We stepped aboard and on down to the saloon, which was incredibly roomy and, more surprisingly, colourful with vibrant scatter cushions lavishly positioned around the cabin table. A head appeared from behind a door to one of the quarter berths that turned out to be

September 2011 Sailing Today 9594 Sailing Today September 2011

CRUISING LA GOMERAMain:

Stretching her legs, Zuleika hits the wind acceleration

zone, leaving La Gomera in her

wake.

RIGHT:Leaving the

marina at Puerto De Los

Gigantes.

RIGHT:Clive, our

instructor, going through

the MOB drills.

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After a successful completion of the RYA Day Skipper theory, ST’s Guy Foan hits the sunny climes of La Gomera with Canary Sail to obtain his practical qualification and gets a little more than expected! The wind acceleration zone between Tenerife and La Gomera didn’t disappoint.Words & Pics: Guy Foan

IN THE ZONE? IN THE ZONE?IN THE ZONE?Accelerated learning

>>

shipmate number three, Ciara, a London girl of similar age to myself. That completed the class minus our instructor, Clive, who we would meet in the local watering hole later that evening. I was offered the forecabin, which included en-suite with shower and enough drawers to place one item of clothing in each. With time to relax before venturing out into San Sebastian, we delved into the fridge and pulled out three ice cold beers and toasted the prospect of an exciting six days aboard Zuleika. As we unwound,

we explained how we had ended up on the course.

Neil was the owner of Cable Call, a Najad 380 berthed in Poole Harbour. He was here to pass the RYA Coastal Skipper and qualify for the ICC. Future intentions were to retire, taking Cable Call bluewater. Ciara, pronounced ‘Kira’, hence her new nickname Shakira,

was fairly novice and had booked to do the Comp Crew course, combining it with a holiday on the islands. I was surprised by the mix of abilities, but it is something Canary Sail likes to do, because they believe it stretches the learning of the beginners and highlights the need for good communication and understanding

when skippering with an inexperienced crew.

With the heat of day being replaced by a cool evening breeze, we jumpered up and briskly walked the short distance into town to meet Jim, the owner of Canary Sail, Clive, our instructor, and as it turned out virtually the whole Canary Sail team, family and friends included. We also met two couples who would be out sailing with us on Alexandra, a Bavaria 36.

The evening was a real success and we were surrounded by people that clearly loved sailing and the way of life on this, the second smallest of seven islands in the archipelago. We had escaped Tenerife’s neon glow and found ourselves a little treasure of an island – and in more ways than one with bottled beer at €1.30.

Waking up the following morning to the soothing sound of water lapping against

the hull and bright sunshine piercing through the forehatch, I was more than keen to get on with the day’s adventures. We were joined by Clive at 10am, all 6ft 5in of the man, giving us generous time for a lie in after the previous day’s travel.

PONTOON BASHINGBefore we could go anywhere, there was the necessary but unexciting safety briefing. Once lifejackets were allocated and fire extinguishers pointed out amongst other safety items, Clive lifted off the companionway steps and went through the engine check list or ‘WOBBLE’: water, oil, battery, belt, leaks and finally exhaust. On deck it was more of a familiarisation exercise for Neil and me, while Clive went through naming sails, fittings, ropes and basic knots.

After a short lunch break, it was all hands on deck. There was talk the previous night of a passage to Tenerife, but due to a less than favourable wind direction it was postponed and replaced with bumper cars in the marina. We all managed pretty well at the wheel, but details like deciding on which lines to leave till last when leaving the mooring was basic but immensely challenging under pressure. On this particular occasion, the best exit plan was to initiate tick-over in ahead and release previously slipped lines one by one until left with just the stern line, which was working the hardest. The boat was kept steady with

the rudder, so we were happily balanced until all were aboard and ready for the off. For much of the afternoon we practiced manoeuvring between pontoons and alongside a vacant berth. The big man was very happy with our progress and by the end of the day it was a job well done and Zuleika’s topsides came out unscathed.

GOAT’S HEAD STEWFor dinner, we decided on trying a local family run establishment, Breñusca. When I say family run, Grandma did the cooking, daughter ran front of house, husband farmed the meat and Grandpa produced the wine and it had been run that way for several decades. I bravely selected the Goat Puchero, a local speciality stew with grilled vegetables and meat. Tasty though the sauce was, I won’t be running back for more Billy.

By now we were all settled into the >>

September 2011 Sailing Today 97

LA GOMERA

BELOW LEFT:Anchoring explained.

BELOW:Champagne sailing, Guy at the helm of Zuleika.

ABOVE:Alexandra spotted outside the marina at Puerto De Los Gigantes.

LEFT:Picking up the day’s rations before leaving Playa de Santiago.

LEFT:Guy struggles to pick out his waypoint through the blinding sunset and haze.

Las Galletas

Playa de LasAmericas

MountTeide

Puerto delos Gigantes

Santiago del Teide

LA GOMERA TENERIFE

A T L A N T I C

O C E A N

SOUTHAMERICA

E U R O P E

CanariesAtlanticOcean A F R I C A

NORTHAMERICA

San SebastianPuerto deVueltas

La DamaPlaya de Santiago

Playa de la Guncha

CRUISING

“The true wind went from 6kn to 23kn as we entered the wind acceleration zone.”

“THIS OCCURS WHEN THE PREVAILING NORTHERLIES ARE RAPIDLY SQUEEZED BETWEEN THE HIGH VOLCANIC ISLANDS”

CHARTS AND PILOTS

Imray Chart: E2 Islas Canarias

Admiralty Chart: Gran Canaria to Hierro

Spanish Charts617, 614, 6150 and 61A

Instituto Hidrográfico de la Marina

Imray Atlantic IslandsAzores, Madeira, Canary

Islands & Cape VerdesAnne Hammick,

4th Edition, 2004ISBN 085288 761 2

BOOK OFFER 10% off for ST readers

who quote this article when ordering the Atlantic Islands

from Imray on 01480 462114

www.imray.com

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LOG BOOKDate From To Distance 21/5/11 San Sebastian – local waters 1022/5/11 San Sebastian Puerto de los Gigantes 1823/5/11 Puerto de los Gigantes Puerto de Vueltas 35.524/5/11 Puerto de Vueltas Playa de Santiago 21.825/5/11 Playa de Santiago San Sebastian 1826/5/11 San Sebastian – local waters 4.7

TOTAL 108

ABOVE:Zuleika’s forecabin.

98 Sailing Today September 2011 September 2011 Sailing Today 99

boat and morning chores were a smooth operation. Kettle on was number one priority for whoever was first to rise, breakfast was a ‘grab it yourself’ and we alternated who took the boat kitty (€100, which is allocated to each boat) and ventured off to provide lunch for the day.

We had a full day’s sailing ahead and before leaving San Sebastian, Neil and I had to sharpen pencils and take to the charts. He was to do the pilotage for leaving the marina and I to prepare the passage plan for the later sail to Puerto De Los Gigantes, a small town on the west coast of Tenerife, which the previous week had apparently been overrun with film crew on a location shoot for Clash of the Titans II. Another near miss with stardom!

We motored out away from La Gomera to pick up the breeze and it wasn’t long before a wind line could be seen on the water. The true wind went from 6kn to 23kn as we entered the wind acceleration zone. This occurs when the prevailing northerlies are rapidly squeezed between the high volcanic islands of Tenerife and La Gomera, causing the air to accelerate and increase up to three forces on the Beaufort scale.

With three reefs already in place, I clambered onto the coachroof to sweat the main halyard up when ordered: “Halyard up, ease the topping lift, centre the sheet and finally get that kicker on.”

The different points of sail were practised for a good couple of hours before our hunger told us it might be a good time to spot an anchorage in one of the many nearby bays. We decided on Playa De La Guancha, which lies just a couple of cables south of San Sebastian. The bay sat at the bottom of a steep valley, very picturesque perhaps, but not so ideal for a quiet lunch, great however for practising calling gusts. The katabatic winds, or drainage winds if we’re less technical, were falling down the slopes and hitting us at up to 40kn. There was a strange sense of excitement on contact and one’s survival instincts reacted with lightning effect when it came to shielding the day’s rations.

Time: 1425, Log: 93.6, CTS 065ºM, waypoint programmed in for the west cardinal just off the marina at Los Gigantes.

We were pinching up on port tack at a steady 7kn with 22kn of true wind from the NNE. The sea was moderate, but lumpy enough for a proper soaking in the cockpit. I was, for the first time, in charge of the boat and crew and it felt pretty darn good. We were making fast progress and I encouraged everyone to get weight up. At this stage it was politely pointed out that my navigation was being watched, not my ability to reach the boat’s hull speed. Fair point, I thought. After an hour or so I asked Shakira to take

the helm and carefully manoeuvred down to the chart table to check our location and grab a handbearing compass. Neil had been out of sight and curiously cleaning the heads, galley and just about everything else that gathered dust. Questioning his actions and apparent ability to be immune from seasickness, his reply was, which took us all by surprise, “I don’t like being out in the sun or getting wet.” Nothing else was said, but you could see thoughts turning to, “You chose the Canaries to do your course in the heat of May!”

Two miles off the coast, our bearing to waypoint and course steered were 10º out, resulting in a crosstrack error of one mile. Thanks to a generous wind shift though, we were now able to point higher and steer to the waypoint. Through the bins I spotted my ‘yellow, black, yellow’ post and then the green channel mark. As long as this was kept to port of the cardinal it would give a safe route to the marina entrance. I headed into the wind and called for the sails to be dropped, then fenders and warps to be readied. Clive radioed ahead in some funny language to the marina on Ch 09 to get berthing instructions and we were given a stern-to mooring that, on approach, looked incredibly tight between two bigger commercial vessels. Somehow my line was looking good and with positive throttle control kissed the wall with our stern fender ball. I think the smile on my face was obvious and Clive congratulated us all on a fine effort, just the lazy line to pick up and secure to the bow cleat. One happy chap and with the warm glow of evening sun bouncing off our faces thoughts turned again to beer and sun cream – oops!

DAY SICKERDay three on the water was largely spent decorating the sugar scoop with partially digested breakfast followed by showering it clean again. The 30 mile trip was sailed mainly on a broad reach in fairly big rolling seas and it was only after rounding the northwest tip of La Gomera, that we changed course and my state of illness was relieved. Spotting a school of bottlenose dolphins might have contributed to my miraculous recovery too.

By the time I’d fully recovered, school was over for another day and we were cruising in near perfect conditions to Puerto �

ABOVE:Thirsty shipmates toasting another successful day.

ABOVE:Lunch with gusts at Playa de la Guancha.

COSTSFlights with Monarch from Gatwick to Tenerife South were £235, including luggage and taxes.www.monarch.co.uk

On arrival at Tenerife South airport, you can take a Taxi or bus to the ferry port at Los Cristianos. A taxi should cost no more than €25 and take no longer than 15 minutes.Bus Servicewww.titsa.comLine 111 – Playa Las Americas.

Fred Olsen Ferry to San Sebastien was €33.46 one way.

Cost of course with Canary SailRYA Day Skipper practical, 6 days on board €750To book call Canary sail on: 01438 880 890 www.canarysail.com

RIGHT:Hello Sailor... Guy scouting

for buoys prior to his night

sail.

BELOW:Bottlenose

dolphins off Puerto de

Vueltas.

De Vueltas and a night rafted with Alexandra on the marina wall.

I was determined there’d be no more letting the side down and the following morning set about planning a safe passage out of the marina, which now, thanks to our instructor, had all sorts of imaginary obstacles thrown in. Neil and I were starting to get a little more confident with the pilotage and at the chart table, not that I always had the stomach for it mind, and were looking forward to the next challenge, MOBs.

Under engine, we steered away from the island where we’d hoped to again pick up more wind. With 18kn of apparent found we hoisted sails. Clive went through the various scenarios and then let each of us loose at the wheel. Sailing on a beam reach, the fender was thrown overboard: “Man overboard,” we shouted, perhaps slightly over enthusiastically. At three boat’s lengths, tack round and heave to, then slowly drift onto the fender, keeping it within the ‘V’ of the shrouds. With the engine now on, it was a case of using ahead

and astern gears to keep our line. If the target was

missed we furled the jib, tacked, pulled the mainsheet in tight and motored to the MOB.

Next stop, Playa de Santiago and a rather poorly timed arrival at the marina entrance. Nearing our waypoint, the red channel marker was not a problem; seeing

it was. The evening sun was directly over the town and a haze blanketed the bay; I was completely blinded and by the time it came into sight, steering back and forth within my clearing bearings, our distance was metres from it. Useful lesson learnt! Time had run away,

as had the light, and once safely secured and debriefed, it was a sprint to the local fish restaurant. Conversation that night faded as we all looked forward to a good sleep and thoughts turned to the night sail.

THE FINAL SPLASHLeaving Santiago in the distance, we sailed 16 miles to our anchorage, a secluded bay just outside Barranco de la Guncha. This

was to be our resting point before heading out under the night sky for the return to San Sebastian. An opportunity perhaps for a bit of fun and a quiz, your chosen subject is – lights and shapes! For the fi rst time in the week, my newly bought swimmers got a taste of the Atlantic as I launched myself from the pulpit, a reminder perhaps of why I chose the Canaries over the Solent. Shakira and I then took to the foredeck for a bit of reading and sun worshipping while Neil planned the night sail.

Darkness fell at 2130 and this was our call to raise the anchor and start out for our fi nal test, lifejacket and harnesses securely fastened. My task was to get us to waypoint 28º 00’.0N, 17º 00’.0W, thankfully nothing too challenging and I had time to soak up the experience. Neil, on the other hand, doing his Coastal Skipper, had the harder task of getting us back into the marina.

We arrived at Zuleika’s home mooring at 0240 and Gareth, skipper of Alexandra, was on hand to take our lines. Round the saloon table we gave in to a long awaited thirst and Clive broke the great news that we had all passed our respective courses. What better way to end our great sailing adventure?

De Vueltas and a night rafted with on the marina wall.

and astern gears to keep our line. If the target was

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CRUISING LA GOMERA