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Jules Hudson travels the Severn Valley Railway, winner of BBC Countryfile Magazine’s Heritage Site of the Year, for a trip back in time to the golden age of steam

ALL ABOARD THE SEVERN WONDERPhotos: Oliver Edwards & Lewis Maddox

No 4566, a Great Western Railway locomotive built in

1924, crosses Oldbury Viaduct at the head of a

Severn Valley dining train, which runs most Sundays.

RIGHT Jules Hudson at Arley station ABOVE

INSET Volunteer Martin McKenzie blows the

whistle at Kidderminster

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Highley station in Shropshire,

where the Engine House is located; apprentice engineer

Emma Harrison loves the hands-on experience; vintage

leather travel trunks at Kidderminster; Jules enjoys

the air streaming past

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From its source in the Cambrian mountains around Plynlimon near Aberystwyth, to its end, 220 miles later, in the tidal reaches at Maisemore, the river Severn

traces a route through some of the most spectacular scenery in the British Isles. There are, of course, myriad ways in which to explore it, either on foot, by boat, or by bike, but few can rival the unique perspective of gently rolling through some 16 miles of its more inaccessible reaches by railway.

Since it was completed back in 1862, the Severn Valley Railway has played an important role in the economic development of both Worcestershire and Shropshire. Originally designed to connect a 40-mile stretch between Kidderminster and Shrewsbury, today it survives as one of the oldest, busiest and most comprehensive heritage railways in the UK.

Its connections to the rest of the mainline network have helped it to establish a commanding position as a vital hub in the infrastructure that maintains many more of the nation’s historic railways. Specialist engineering and repair facilities and a growing apprentice scheme, along with acres of workshops and expert knowledge, have preserved and revived many old skills. These elements have helped the SVR lead the way in the business of creating and curating an increasing number of historic railways since the preservation charity was formed back in 1965 – which means, this year, it proudly celebrates its 50th anniversary.

GOD’S WONDERFUL RAILWAYSince I was a boy, I’ve made no apology for being captivated by the age of steam and the great engines that continue to harness its power and project its magic. The majesty of a locomotive hauling its train across a timeless landscape has helped give the SVR an envious edge over its rivals in the business of railway revival. For much of its life it was run by the Great Western Railway, or GWR. Viewed by many of its advocates both past and present as God’s Wonderful Railway, the GWR and its role in opening up much of the country to trade and travel is

one of the great tales of 19th-century engineering and innovation. Its chief engineer, Brunel, has come to embody that can-do approach that underlined the Great in Great Britain. British factories exported the best locomotives in the world, around the world, locomotives whose designs were honed across thousands of miles of the home railway network.

Getting me onto a steam train is like asking a five year old if they fancy some work experience in Santa’s grotto. For the past five years or so, the SVR has, in effect,

become my local line since moving to the borders and Herefordshire, and over that time, either through work or play, I’ve been a regular visitor. My several filming forays, including for Countryfile, have often focused upon the specifics of an engine or

the role of a department. Curiously, the one thing I’ve not yet been able to do freely is simply to enjoy the ride and take in the unique perspective the line’s route provides of this lovely part of the world, often undisturbed by roads and pathways.

PUFFING PAST RHINOSJoined by Lewis Maddox, the SVR’s events coordinator, I was in good company for my trip. For Lewis, almost every view that the UK has to offer is encapsulated in the 16 miles of track that the SVR has made its own. And, as he says, what better way to experience it than with the soundtrack of a steam locomotive gently puffing its way across the landscape. The Railway’s motto, “every

TOP LEFT No 5164 steams over the Severn Valley via the spectacular Victoria Bridge

1SOUTH DEVON RAILWAYThis journey is an exciting taster

of the classic holiday county of Devon. Shortly after Exeter, you’ll find the train line is hugging the sea wall so closely that you can see the froth on individual waves. while sandy beaches and brightly coloured boats dot the water. Of course, such a dramatic line is prone to wear and tear from weather, but £9million has been invested towards maintaining the cliff faces, tunnels and sea wall.www.southdevonrailway.co.uk

2WEST HIGHLAND LINEThis five and a half hour trip

from Glasgow to Mallaig runs through consistently jaw-dropping landscapes. Rushing from the inner city into greenery, the line passes towering hills, calm lochs, stunning glens, and welcoming towns and villages. After Fort William rises the grand Glenfinnan Viaduct, known to many from the Harry Potter films. It’s then a short stretch to Mallaig, with idyllic views to the Isle of Skye (see page 20). www.scotrail.co.uk

“ALMOST EVERY VIEW THE UK HAS

TO OFFER IS ENCAPSULATED IN

16 MILES OF TRACK”

FIVE MORE GREAT TRAIN JOURNEYS

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journey ends with a memory” is a just one, as I look forward to capturing a few of my own.

Our journey starts in the industrial town of Kidderminster, which earned its past fortunes making carpets. Today the carpet factories have largely gone, but the ever-changing scenery is a trip into yesteryear, notwithstanding the Safari Park that greets you as the train emerges from the tunnel that separates townscape from countryside. What the rhinos – happily wandering about a reconstruction of an Indian palace – make of the railway I don’t know, but it helps add to the exoticism, and offers a gentle reminder that British-built trains opened up the farthest reaches of the Empire.

VAULTING AMBITIONOur first stop, Bewdley, is a Georgian gem, its rooftops and spires clustering around a beautifully preserved station that has appeared in many a period drama. As we pull out northwards, we enter the Severn Valley itself. Passing over the Élan Valley aqueduct, yet another reminder of 19th-century engineering ambition reveals itself. Stretching back some 80 miles to the

mountains of mid-Wales, the aqueduct and the reservoirs that supply it still do what they were designed to do, bringing millions of gallons of water to Birmingham every day.

Our carriages are packed with tourists and enthusiasts. Without a doubt the jewel in the SVR’s crown is the Victoria Bridge. Built in 1861, it’s a younger cousin of that in Ironbridge. Designed by John Fowler, its 61m (200 feet) span was the longest in the world when it was completed, and marks the only place where the railway crosses the river from which it takes its name.

At Arley we pause again, just long enough to take in the vintage beauty of this small and pretty station. As our engine begins to draw out, it bellows huge deliberate gasps of steam as the wheels gently drive us forward. From

here on, the Severn Valley casts a spell all its own as we cross the border from Worcestershire to Shropshire. Few, if any, roads are visible from the windows, creating the feeling that these are views reserved just for us. At Highley, one of the main nodes on the line, the SVR has positioned its Engine House and museum. We stop long enough to enjoy a station that

“THE ENGINE BELLOWS HUGE GASPS OF STEAM AS THE WHEELS GENTLY DRIVE US FORWARD”

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› FOR MORE INFORMATION: Severn Valley Railway, Kidderminster (01562 757900; www.svr.co.uk)

many may recognise from the opening sequence of The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, all adding to that otherworldliness that the railway takes you into. In the past, Highley and the surrounding area prospered thanks to numerous coal mines. They have now gone, replaced and obscured by a landscape that’s green and verdant, awash with the aroma of wild garlic and swathes of deciduous trees.

DREAMS OF STEAMAt Hampton Lode, I joined volunteer driver Steve Jones and fireman Carl Jones for the last leg of my journey. Standing on the footplate, I was immersed in that wonderful feeling of power and energy as our engine, affectionately known as the Flying Pig, bumped and bucked its way along the line while I shovelled coal into the great firebox that burnt all I could pour into it at temperatures up to 1500°C.

Ten minutes later, we pulled into Bridgnorth, the end of the line but for many the unquestioned spiritual home of the SVR. It was here, 50 years ago, that a handful of passionate enthusiasts launched the idea of preserving a railway on the brink of closure.

3FFESTINIOG RAILWAYThis steam railway has a long,

proud heritage. It’s over 150 years old and travels nearly 14 miles from Porthmadog harbour along the narrow gauge line and up into the heart of Snowdonia. It passes woodland and lakes and through tunnels to climb 213m (700 feet) from sea level. The slate-mining town of Blaenau Ffestiniog is your destination – the line was originally built so that the quarry’s slate could be quickly exported. www.festrail.co.uk

4CRAVEN ARMS TO LLANELLI

Perhaps less well-known than some of its more famous cousins, this charming little line deserves its place here. Known as the Heart of Wales railway, the line passes through 43 remote stations among beautiful, wild Welsh countryside. The 90 miles between Craven Arms and Llanelli are travelled in three hours, giving travellers plenty of time to soak in the gorgeous views at a gentler pace.www.heart-of-wales.co.uk

5SETTLE TO CARLISLEThis beautiful line across the

Eden Valley and Yorkshire Dales runs through 14 tunnels and crosses 20 viaducts. It originally opened in 1876, and is so well loved that two attempts to close it failed due to public outcry. Millions of pounds have now been spent on upgrading lines and stations over its 72 miles. There are several charter steam train trips over the summer, if you fancy travelling this award-winning line in style. www.settle-carlisle.co.uk

Over the past five decades it has gone from strength to strength and its future looks assured. Today, the railway’s engineering workshops at Bridgnorth seem busier than ever, the ranks of its team swelled by some seven apprentices, of whom Max Green and Emma Harrison are but two.

For Emma, a life in steam as a modern-day engineer represents a way of life she always wanted to follow. Her blackened face surrounds a broad smile that says it all. “I just love steam engines,” she beams, and it’s easy to see why. Thanks to the SVR and its determination and success in preserving not just the machines but the skills that are needed to keep them alive, it’s clear that this wonderful railway will keep on rolling long into the future. My latest visit over, I have no doubt that its many advocates over the years are right, and while it may have changed its name, its spirit remains true to its GWR origins. Perhaps it is God’s Wonderful Railway after all. CF

Look out for Jules on Countryfile on BBC One and Escape to the Country on BBC Two.

JOURNEYS

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Lush greenery frames the ride; the pressure gauge in the engine room; Jules on the footplate, shovelling coal into the firebox of No 43106 (‘The Flying Pig’); relaxing in a first class carriage

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Jules Hudson travels the Severn Valley Railway, winner of BBC Countryfile Magazine’s Heritage Site of the Year, for a trip back in time to the golden age of steam

ALL ABOARD THE SEVERN WONDERPhotos: Oliver Edwards & Lewis Maddox

Highlights

from the

latest issue

97

No 4566, a Great Western Railway locomotive built in

1924, crosses Oldbury Viaduct at the head of a

Severn Valley dining train, which runs most Sundays.

RIGHT Jules Hudson at Arley station ABOVE

INSET Volunteer Martin McKenzie blows the

whistle at Kidderminster

97www.countryfile.com

J O U R N E Y S