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Automatic Coil Winder This is my build of the: High Stepping Automatic Coil Winder project that was featured in the June 2005 issue of Nuts & Volts magazine and authored by Robert Lang. The idea behind the coil winder project was to create an automatic coil winder that the author could set up, walk away from, and return to a finished coil. He also intended it to be an introductory learning tool for his readers in precision object positioning and I happen to be one of his readers. I have no affiliation with Nuts & Volts magazine or the author of the original article so if you are interested in reading the original article or building the High Stepping Automatic Coil Winder a print copy or digital version of the June 2005 issue of The Nuts & Volts magazine can be ordered from the Nuts & Volts website. The completed coil winder is up and running. Click on above photo to view larger image. To run the winder you need a copy of the "Coil Winder" software program (you can download from the Nuts & Volts website) running on a pc with a parallel port, a parallel port printer extension cable, and a power supply to power the driver board and stepper motors. The Coil Winder program will run in MS Windows 98, but to run in newer operating systems such as, NT, 2000 or XP you will need to download and install a driver named INPOUT32.DLL from LOGIX4U.NET otherwise you will get an error when the Coil Winder software tries to access the parallel port. A screen shot of the Coil Winder program. The white fields are filled in by the user and the green fields are the calculated results output by the program based on the user inputs. For the wood parts of the coil winder I was able to use wood I had leftover from other projects. The plywood I used for the sides and bottom of the winder have a 1/2 inch nominal thickness. The sides are cut to 8" X 8", and the bottom is 8" X 18". The side supports are 3/4" X 2 1/2" X Automatic Coil Winder http://www.theprojectasylum.com/electronicsprojects/automaticcoi ... 1 of 5 27-Apr-13 22:56

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Automatic Coil Winder

This is my build of the:High Stepping Automatic Coil Winderproject that was featured in the June2005 issue of Nuts & Volts magazineand authored by Robert Lang.

The idea behind the coil winder projectwas to create an automatic coil winderthat the author could set up, walkaway from, and return to a finishedcoil. He also intended it to be anintroductory learning tool for hisreaders in precision object positioningand I happen to be one of his readers.

I have no affiliation with Nuts & Voltsmagazine or the author of the originalarticle so if you are interested inreading the original article or buildingthe High Stepping Automatic CoilWinder a print copy or digital version ofthe June 2005 issue of The Nuts &Volts magazine can be ordered fromthe Nuts & Volts website.

The completed coil winder is up and running.Click on above photo to view larger image.

To run the winder you need a copy ofthe "Coil Winder" software program(you can download from the Nuts &Volts website) running on a pc with aparallel port, a parallel port printerextension cable, and a power supply topower the driver board and steppermotors.

The Coil Winder program will run inMS Windows 98, but to run in neweroperating systems such as, NT, 2000or XP you will need to download andinstall a driver named INPOUT32.DLLfrom LOGIX4U.NET otherwise you willget an error when the Coil Windersoftware tries to access the parallelport.

A screen shot of the Coil Winder program. Thewhite fields are filled in by the user and the greenfields are the calculated results output by theprogram based on the user inputs.

For the wood parts of the coil winder Iwas able to use wood I had leftoverfrom other projects.

The plywood I used for the sides andbottom of the winder have a 1/2 inchnominal thickness. The sides are cut to8" X 8", and the bottom is 8" X 18".The side supports are 3/4" X 2 1/2" X

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8", and the channels cut into thesupports are 3/8" deep and the widthof the plywood.

I had a difficult time understanding theplacement of some of the coil windercomponents while referencing theoriginal coil winder mechanicaldrawing, so I studied it and made myown drawing to locate the positions ofthe motors, and threaded and brassrods.

Click on mechanical drawing below tosee full size image.

The side panels are glued into the side supports,and the side supports are fastened to base withscrews from the underside of the base.

The side support screws can be loosened so youcan adjust the sides of the winder. If the sides arenot parallel to each other the rotating rods will bindup. Cardboard shims can be placed under the sidesupports as needed to make the sides vertical.

Top Left: Cutting threads in analuminum spacer to be used as thebearing surface for the threadedrod.

Top Center: and Right: Drillingholes in winder components withdremel drill press.

Bottom: 3/16" solid brass rods to beused for the various coil windershafts. A 10-32 threaded steel rodused as the carriage lead screwand other miscellaneous parts.

Photo bottom left: There are two spacers insertedbetween the nylon couplers and rods that are notshown in the above photograph.

The stepper motors the author usedwere surplus units from All Electronics

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and are no longer available.

Here is the information from theoriginal stepper motor listing. I got thisfrom The Wayback Machine.

New stepper motors are generallyexpensive to use for hobby projects.I bought new old stock stepper motorsthrough the Internet.

It can be difficult to find specificationsfor old stepper motors. I gathered asmuch information as I could, took achance on these motors and I am quitesatisfied with their performance.

The coil winder 28BB-H151-11 steppermotor wiring diagram & information.

28BB-H151-11 Minebea Astrosyn 7.5 deg/stepstepper motors mounted. Top: Coil winder motor,Bottom: Carriage motor.

Minebea Stepper Motor part numberdecoding & specifications, Circa 1999.

The underside of the carriage basewith polystyrene slide tube andthreaded #10-32 hex nut fitted intochannels and epoxied into place.

I formed the channels in the base witha miter saw, wood chisel and a roundfile.

Pilot holes were drilled into the topedge of the winder carriage beforeinserting the wire guides to prevent thewood from splitting.

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I used a large sewing needle and small eye hooksas wire guides for the carriage.

The polystyrene material waspurchased from a local hobby shop.

A 1.25 inch hole saw was used to cutthe sheet material. The hole saw pilotbit cut the center hole just right for the.25 inch tubing.

I glued the spool together with gelsuper glue, but have since purchaseda solvent to weld future spoolstogether.

The foam cylinder in the photo was asewing thread spool that I cut andsanded to use as a form to make thecoil winder spools.

Coil winder spool made from polystyrene .25outside diameter tubing, and sheet material.

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Coil winder and carriage rod nylon bearingsepoxied into side panel. Aluminum spacer epoxiedon threaded rod as inner bearing surface.

When I first started running the coilwinder I noticed the stepper motorswere randomly miss stepping.

After checking into the problem Idiscovered that my computer's parallelport could not properly drive theIRF510 mosfets specified in theoriginal Nuts & Volts article.

The parallel printer ports uses 5 voltlogic so I replaced the mosfets withIRL540 logic level mosfets and iteliminated the random miss stepping.

Winder and carriage stepper motor driver board.Click on the driver board link to see pictures of theboard making process.

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Coil Winder Electronics

The board layout was done by theauthor Robert Lang using free softwarefrom board manufacturer ExpressPCB.The pcb board file is available fromNuts & Volts magazine online.

Since I intended to make the boardmyself. I downloaded ExpressPCB,and installed it. Opened the board.pcbfile, and printed the board layout toPDF Creator which allowed me tocreate a pdf file.

I opened the board layout pdf file inPaint Shop Pro, and modified thelayout to shorten the jumper lengthsbecause, I was making a single layerboard that required jumpers, andincreased the size of the through holepads to make them more robust.

Using Paint Shop Pro the board layout was printedonto Techniks transfer material with my HP4L laserprinter.

A Steel square clamped down to the pcb materialto use as a straight edge for scoring, and a piece ofscrap wood is placed under the pcb to protect thework bench.

The board scoring process requires abit of effort, and I generally go througha few utility knife blades in theprocess.

The circuit boards should be separated

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by aligning the score line of the boardwith the edge of a piece of wood or theedge of the work bench, and bendingthe board.

After separating the boards I file theboard edge to smooth it and removeany copper burrs.

The board is scored on both sides beforeseparating. Copper side is scored first so scorelines are visible on other side when board is turnedover.

Before transferring the toner to thecircuit board. I use a scotch bright padto clean and ruff up the coppersurface. Than clean the board with anisopropyl alcohol dampened papertowel.

The toner is transfered to the boardusing a clothes iron with thetemperature set just below the steamlevel.

I remove the transfer paper after theboard has cooled.

I drill the corner mounting holes of theboard being careful not to scratch thetoner off the board.

Laser printer toner circuit pattern transfered ontopcb board using a clothes iron.

I agitate the etching solution bymanually moving the board around inthe solution to speed up the etchingprocess, periodically removing it fromthe solution to check the progress.

The etching process typically takesless than 10 minutes to complete.

Board being etched with ferric chloride. I warm theechant with an aquarium to speed up the etchingprocess.

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When the etching process is finished, the board issubmerged in two different containers of water, andthen rinsed off under the faucet.

The dremel drill, and drill press workwell for drilling component holes incircuit boards. I leave the toner on theboard till I am finished drilling becauseit keeps the drill bit centered in thepad.

Also the toner keeps the copper fromoxidizing so leave it on till your ready toinstall the components.

I remove the toner from the board witha lacquer thinner dampened papertowel.

I prefer to drill the circuit boards outdoors becauseof the fiberglass dust.

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Underside of completed stepper motor driver board.

The coil winder 28BB-H151-11 steppermotor wiring diagram & information.

Completed stepper motor driver board.

The standard parallel port printer cablewith a 36 pin centronics connectorwon't interface to the driver board.

A parallel port printer extension cablehas the correct connectors to interfacethe parallel port of your computer tothe male DB 25 connector on thestepper motor driver board.

I replaced the centronics connector onan existing parallel port printer cablewith a female DB 25 connector tointerface with the winder because I hadthe parts on hand.

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Coil Winder Stepper Motor Wiring Diagram & Information

Wiring connections for the Minebea Astrosyn28BB-H151-11 and the high stepping automatic coilwinder. Other wiring configurations will also work.

The stepper motor above is configuredas a unipolar motor. The red and blackleads of all 4 phases (coils) are tied to+5 volts.The other lead of each of the phases istied to a mosfet on the circuit board. Aseach mosfet on the board is energizedit pulls the corresponding motor leadto ground potential and powers thatphase of the stepper motor.

I bought a 5 volt, 4 amp switchingpower adapter for the coil winder at alocal surplus dealer for a few dollars.

I tested the power adapter with the coilwinder. The output voltage of the

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adapter was stable with the minimumload of the winder at idle to themaximum load with the coil winderrunning.

The coil winder power supply loadusing the two 28BB-H151-11 steppermotors peaks at about 2.1 ampereswhile running with the winder softwareset to wave mode and 3.6 ampereswith the winder software set tohi-torque mode.

ACBEL model AD8048 switching power adapter.

The stepper above is a 4 phase (8 wire) permanentmagnet motor. It can be configured for unipolar orbipolar use.

The approximate dimensions of theMinebea 28BB-H151-11 in inches are:

Diameter 2 11/16"

Mounting plate 2 3/4" square

Motor depth 1 5/8" (excl. shaft)

Mounting holes 2 9/32" on center

Shaft 3/4" long

Shaft diameter 1/4"

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Inside view of a Minebea Astrosyn 28BB-H151-11 stepper motor.

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Coil Winder Motor Couplings

Here are the first couplings I madeusing 1/4" I.D. brass tubing and twopart epoxy to attach them to thestepper motor shafts.

The motors had round shafts ( no flats) and I applied the epoxy and rotatedthe sleeves while holding the motorshaft stationary to evenly spread theepoxy between the shaft and sleeve.These are the type of couplings usedin the original Nut & Volts AutomaticCoil Winder article.

The epoxied on sleeves are on reallystraight, but I really didn't like the ideaof permanently mounting the sleevesto the motors so I started looking forother inexpensive solutions that I couldmake from materials that I could buylocally.

The stepper motor to the right is one oftwo small and under powered steppermotors that I bought from a localsurplus store to use temporarily whilebuilding the coil winder.

I made my first removable couplingsfrom nylon spacers but the spacershave a loose fit to begin with anddeform when you tighten the setscrew.

The second coupling I made from analuminum spacer I had is better but Ican't buy them locally.

The bronze couplings I made frombronze bearings have the best fit of theremovable couplings and are madefrom materials that can be purchasedfrom a local home center or hardwarestore.

A negative of the bronze couplers isthe wall thickness of 1/16". Very littlewall thickness to tap threads into forthe set screws, although I have putquite a bit of torque on the small hexkey wrench tightening the set screwsseveral times without having anyissues with them stripping. At this pointI don't know if it will become a problemin the future.

The nylon coupling on the left is made from a nylonbushing but because of the excessive insidediameter and the fact that the nylon deformssomewhat when the set screw is tightened the fitwas not optimal. The middle coupling made from aaluminum spacer an is better than the nyloncoupling but I can't find them locally. My latestcouplings are made of bronze.

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My latest couplings are made using1/4" x 3/8" x 1" bronze bearings(bushings) and are attached to themotor shafts with #8 - 32 x 3/16" setscrews.

I also used #18 x 3/4" brassescutcheon pins to secure the coilwinder threaded and brass rods to thecouplings.

I cut the brass pins to size and filedthe end smooth than used vinyl tubingwith a 3/8" inside diameter (1/2" O.D.)and cut the tubing to about 1/4" widthto hold the shaft pins in place.

I heated the vinyl tubing with a hot airgun to straighten it and to make iteasier to cut through the tubing with autility knife.

In the images to the right you can seethe 1/4" O.D. polystyrene tubing beingused as a bushing between the 1/4"I.D. coupling and the 3/16" O.D. brassrod. The polystyrene tubing I used ismade by evergreen scale models, Itemno. 228 .250 diam (6.3mm). I bought itfrom a local hobby shop.

The rods are not rigidly held inside thepolystyrene tubing. There is still somespace between the rods plastic tubingallowing tolerance for alignmentissues.

These bronze bushings have a betterfit than the nylon or aluminum spacersI used for the 1/4" stepper motor shaftsand the 1/16" wall thickness doesn'tseem like it will be an issue for thiswinder but it may be an issue for moredemanding applications.

The cost of the bronze bushingslocally are about $2.50 each. You canover sleeve them with another bronzebushing or a cheaper steel spacer todouble the wall thickness.

Since making the bronze couplings Ihave since added nylon bearings tothe motor coupling side of the coilwinder so the construction of the motorcouplings are less critical.

Coil Winder Updates Page

These particular bushings are porous andimpregnated with oil so the first thing I did wassubmerse them in isopropyl alcohol for at least acouple of days or more to degrease them because Iam using them as couplings not as bearings.

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Automatic Coil Winder Updates and Ideas

Changes To The Coil WinderI added nylon bearings to the motorcoupling side of the rotating shafts toreduce shaft wobble.This will also make the construction ofthe motor couplings less critical.

Because of the large existing holes inthe wood I used nylon spacers aroundthe nylon bearings. I roughed up thenylon surfaces to be glued and used a5 minute two part epoxy to bond theparts together and then to theplywood.

I put the rotating shafts in place beforethe epoxy set to make sure thealignment and position of the bearingswere correct.

In the left image above is one of the new coupling side nylon bearings. To theright is the old setup using the motor coupling to support the rotating shaft.

The spacer for the coupling waslocked in place on the threaded rodwith a brass pin. Now I am using analuminum threaded spacer further inon the threaded rod to use it as abearing surface inside the nylonbearing instead of using it as a spacerinside of the motor coupling.

I wrapped plumbers Teflon tapearound the threaded rod than rotatedthe aluminum spacer over the tapeand into position. The Teflon tapehelps to center the spacer on thethreaded rod and holds the aluminumspacer in place. Some epoxy or otheradhesive can also be applied to securethe spacer.

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With the new bearings I mounted themotors on 1 1/2" standoffs to allowroom for the couplings between themotors and the newly added nylonbearings.

I also moved the plywood winder sidein by about 1 1/2" to adjust for the newmotor mounting so I could continue touse my existing threaded and brassrotating shafts.

The bronze couplings to the right werethe latest change I made to the coilwinder right before adding the motorcoupling side bearings.These couplings are pretty good butafter adding them I realized thatadding bearings to the motor side wasthe way to go as opposed tocontinuing the try to perfectinexpensive homemade couplings.

The remaining wobble in the rotatingshafts is caused by the brass andthreaded rods not being straight.Improving the couplings and addingbearings (bushings) to both sides hasmade this obvious.

Coil Winder Construction IdeasUse two stationary guides for themoving stage as opposed to one guideand the rotating threaded rod. Theguide rail(s) from an old ink jet printeror scanner would probably work well.

With bearings on the coupling side ofthe rotating shafts, couplings can bemade from something as simple asrubber hose, such as automotive orlawn equipment fuel line.

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Test Bench Power Supply

I recently updated my test benchpower supply with new circuit boards,a robust recycled power transformer,fine voltage control adjustments,output switches with indicator leds,floating outputs, earth grounded jacks,and a power cord jack.

The inspiration for my power supplyupdates came from an article in theMarch 2007 issue of Nuts & Voltsmagazine titled "A Test Bench PowerSupply".

I used my existing power supply caseso I had to be somewhat creative withthe front control panel layout becauseof the existing holes in the case.

The completed power supply with two adjustable 0to 20 volt floating supplies @ 1.5 amps each.

This power supply uses the corevoltage regulation circuit (withmodifications) and some of the otherfeatures that were used in the originalmagazine article.

Each supply has separate coarse andfine voltage adjustment potentiometersand are adjustable down to a minimumof about zero volts through the use ofLM385BZ voltage reference ics.

The power supplies are electricallyisolated so you have flexibility in howthey are configured with reference toeach other and earth ground. View of the back of the power supply with LM317K

regulators in TO-3 packages mounted on a heatsink recycled from an old 1960s electronic organ.

After finishing the updated powersupply and using it a few times Idiscovered the voltage reference icwould get fried if a power supplyoutput was accidentally overloaded.

I fixed that problem and some otherissues by adding a few componentsand a relay delay circuit.

The relay delay circuit allows time forthe power supply to stabilize beforethe outputs become active and moreimportantly shuts them down as soonas the line power (120VAC) isremoved.

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I have each of the two power supply circuit boardsmounted to the back of the case. The startup delay/ shutdown relay circuit board mounted to thebottom of the case. I am using the largetransformer to provide the primary output power forboth power supplies and the negative referencevoltage of one of the supplies. I also have a smalltransformer mounted to the back of the enclosureto provide the negative reference voltage for thesecond supply.

To the right is the modified powersupply circuit with components addedto resolve the previously cited issues.The added components are in red withthe exception of the C5 capacitor that Ichanged from 100uf to 470uf.

I added the C7 capacitor in parallelwith the voltage reference ic to preventthe C6 capacitor from beingdischarged through the voltagereference ic if the output is abruptlyoverloaded.

I also added the D4 Schottky diode inparallel with the voltage reference icthat prevents the ic from being forwardbiased more than .3 volts and preventsthe 470uf and 100uf capacitors frombeing subjected to a reverse polaritygreater than .3 volts during line powershutdown.

I added the R4 2.2K resistor to speedthe discharge of the C1 4700uf mainfilter capacitor. This was more of anearlier effort to reduce output voltagerise problem during line powershutdown but also helps to reduce thetime that the voltage referencecapacitors are reverse biased.

The power supply has two resistors that have to becalculated. I used a value of 1.5K for resistor R3 toprovide a current flow of 10ma through the voltagereference ic. The effective current flow through thereference ic will actually about 5ma because of anopposing current through the voltage adjust circuit.

The R2 resistor value(s) will be chosen to to set themaximum voltage output for the power supply.My actual values are 11K and 13K.

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To resolve the output voltage swingproblem that occurs when the linepower is shutdown, I added a relaydelay circuit.

I was going through my electronicsparts and discovered that I had aPotter & Brumfied KHU-17D11-12 relaywith a 12VDC coil and four sets ofcontacts rated at 28VDC, 3A thatwould be a perfect fit for this project.

Than I did a search for circuit ideasand found a great circuit to try out.I found the Handy Time Delay withRelay Output. circuit atExtremeCircuits.

Updated power supply board with componentsadded to protect voltage reference ic and reducevoltage overshoot but I have since changed theregulator ics and mounted them on the back of theenclosure.

For the relay circuit I used a DF06bridge rectifier package fed from oneof the power transformer secondarywindings to power the circuit.Substituted a 2N2222A transistor inplace of the BC549 specified and usedan old discontinued Radio Shack276-1020 because it was the only SCRI had in my parts inventory.

I built the time delay with relay circuiton a breadboard trying different partsuntil I got the delay time right. I alsochanged the specified 1N4001 D1diode to a 11DQ06 Schottky diode toimprove timing circuit's capacitordischarge. This tightened the delaytiming repeatability.

I used a 680K resistor for R1 and a47uf capacitor for the C1 timingcomponents. The delay time is about2.6 seconds for the initial power onand 1.6 seconds for repeated startups.

Here is the completed relay delay circuit boardready to install. The delay time shortened quite abit on the final grid board build as compared to thebreadboard build but not so much that I had toadjust the timing.

I didn't want to put too much time intothe relay board project so I built it on aRadio Shack 276-149A circuit board.

I marked the locations on the circuitboard where the relay contacts wouldpass through and cut slots in theboard with my Dremel rotary tool thanremoved the copper lands around theboard slots with a small X-acto knife.

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I mounted the relay and thenpositioned the rest of the parts aroundthe board bending the leads intoposition. After I had all the partspositioned I soldered them into place.

Bottom view of the completed relay delay circuitboard ready to install in my power supply.

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Test Bench Power Supply Schematic Circuit Drawings

Warning!This power supply circuit uses 120 volts household mains andshould only be attempted by someone that has the knowledgeand skills to safely construct such a project. Otherwise personalinjury and or property damage could result.

Page Under Construction!

Test Bench Power Supply Schematic Complete.The left side outlined in yellow is one of two powersupply circuits. On the right is the relay delaycircuit.

Power Supply Parts List

BR1 - KBL405 Bridge Rectifier or equivalent

C1 - 4700uf Electrolytic CapacitorC2 - 0.22uf CapacitorC3 - 22uf 35V Electrolytic CapacitorC4 - 0.1uf 35V Capacitor

D1, D2, D3 - 1N4002 DiodeD4 - 11DQ06 Schottky Diode

IC1 - LM 317K Regulator IC

R1 - 240 (All resistors 1/4 watt)R2 - 12K*R3 - 1.5K*R4, R5 - 2.2KR6 - 1K (2 watt)

BR101 - DF06

C101 - 1 nfC102 - 47ufC103 - 100uf

D101 - 1N4002D102 - 11DQ06

Q1 - 2N2222 Transistor

R101 - 680KR102 - 100R103 - 2.2K

RLA101 - Potter & Brumfied KHU-17D11-12

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VREF - LM385BZ - 1.2

AC Receptacle and or Power CordBanana Jacks F1 - 2A FuseIndicator Lamp - Line Power (120VAC)

SCR101** - 276 - 1020 (Obsolete Part)

S1 - Toggle Switch SPSTS2 - Toggle Switch DPDT

T1 - Power Transformer(s)

LED1 - LED Output Indicator

** The NTE5465 is listed as a replacement for the RS 276-1020 in the NTE cross reference.

Other SCRs with lower current handling capabilities could be substituted to drive the relay usedfor this power supply project. The 276-1020 was the only SCR I had in my parts inventory.

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Solid State Triac Relay

This Solid state relay was designed tooperate a 120VAC inline duct booster.The required input signal to the relay isthe standard 24VAC from aconventional heating and airconditioning system.

I built this solid state relay to replace afailing mechanical relay that waspowering an inline duct booster.

Solid State Relay Schematic & CircuitBoard Drawings

I used an optical isolator and input resistors used toprotect the control voltage source in the air handler.

I laid out the board with Eagle Layout software.

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Solid State Triac Relay Schematic & Board Layout

Warning!This solid state relay circuit uses 120 volts household mains andshould only be attempted by someone that has the knowledgeand skills to safely construct such a project. Otherwise personalinjury and or property damage could result.

Solid State Relay Parts List

B1 - DF02 Bridge Rectifier

C1 - 220uf, 50V Electrolytic CapacitorC2 - .01uf Suppression Capacitor

Class X2 AC 275VC3 - .1uf, 25V Ceramic Capacitor

IC1 - 7812 Voltage Regulator

OK1 - MOC3041 Zero-Cross Optoisolator TriacDriver Output

R1, R6 - 47R2 - 390R3 - 180R4 - 1kR5 - 100

T1 - BTB16-800CWRG Triac

Note: All resistors 1/2 watt, except R5 - 2 watt carbon composition.

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