THE LUXURY MAGAZINE FOR WORLD TRAVELERS

BESPOKE

best of summer

top villaswith a BEaCh viEw

20

TA N Z A N I A p O R T U G A L T U R k E Y S O U T H A F R I c A T H E c A U c A S U S

a-list

NEW WAYS TO SEE WINE COUNTRY:

WHERE TO GO NEXT

paRaDisE FoUND: REDIScOVERING RUBONDO ISLAND

what’s hot Now

t O g E t h E r w E c a n S t O P t h E S t i n g O f m O S q u i t O B i t E S

malaria KillS mOrE than one m ill i on people Each yEar,

with 9 0% Of thEm Occurring in SuB-Saharan africa. 75%

Of thESE dEathS Occur in ch ildren under 5 .

o u r g o a l

d o n a t efOr EvEry nEt PurchaSEd KEr & dOwnEy will dOnatE a nEt.

dOnatE SEcurEly On Our wEBSitE at www.KErdOwnEy.cOm and

tyPE “nets for Afr i c A” undEr add SPEcial inStructiOnS

tO thE SEllEr.

tO PrOvidE 1 8 , 0 0 0 nets tO cOmmunitiES tO hElP rEducE thE

riSK Of lifE-thrEatEning diSEaSES

A letter from the president

With this issue of Bespoke Magazine, we are introducing a few new sections: in the A-List, we hand pick the must-have experiences of the season; our Arrivals section brings you all that’s new in the travel world; while our friends and readers share a magical, photographic moment from a recent trip with The Shot.

In our expanded features section, dig deep into Rubondo Island, the largest island national park in Africa and home to many plants and animals including elephants, giraffes and chimpanzees. Its “new beginning” started when Asilia, our partner in East Africa, began developing a camp there in 2012. Rubondo Island has always allowed the hard-core safari traveler to breathe the fresh air of this isolated gem, but now luxury travelers can also partake in this beauty. Our own Marketing Manager and Contributing Writer Katy Heerssen traveled there recently and writes about her adventures in this issue. “The Caucasus” . . . what comes to mind when you read those words? Did you have to pull up a map or has this destination been simmering in your traveling mind for some time? Travel to this region has been something luxury travelers would not have considered until recently. Its colorful history has been marked by conquest after conquest. The Caucasus “new beginning” started with the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991. Ker & Downey has been sending select clients to the region for some time. Our own Vice President David Jones’ recent visit to the region reignited our hot button to continue to push this timeless destination. Check out a perfect itinerary in this issue and on our website. This month we also continue our efforts to create “new beginnings,” setting a goal to send 18,000 mosquito nets to the children of Uganda. Once again, Ker & Downey will match your donation. Just $7 will provide protection from mosquito bites for four children. Help us create a fresh, safe start for the children of Uganda. Donate securely on our website. What are you waiting for? It’s GO time!

David MarekPresident

4 KER & DOWNEY

SUMMER 2013explorations

a-list

20

58

c O n t E n t S

40

8

13

74

78

46

30

arriVals

tHe itinerarY

tHe sHot

Wild World portugal uncorked

sHoppingistanbul

a perfectpairing

great beacH retreats

Katy Heerssen previews the paradise on Rubondo Island

ThE FOOD & WiNE LOvER’s GuiDE

Find hidden culinary treasure with this must-have guide

High and low, haute and hip, the ancient city is a

shopper’s paradise

Martine Bury tours South Africa's modern

art and wine scenes

In search of the perfect, waterfront hideaway

for your next relaxing escape? We’ve found

the best 20 for you

14 Days in The Caucasus

This season’s must-have experiences

Openings, revamps and the latest travel news

One picture worth a thousand words,

captured this issue by writer-photographer

David Swanson

c o n t r i b u t o r s

BESPOKE

lEt’S cOnnEct

EditOr

Martine Bury

cOntriButing EditOrS

Katy HeerSSen

david joneS

david MareK

Leanne MatuLa

PuBliShErS

david MareK

david joneS

art dirEctiOn & dESign

aMy WiLLiS

PhOtO EditOr

Lauren MareK

cOntEnt writErS

HaLey BeHaM

MereditH MoHr

cOntriButing PhOtOgraPhErS

ryan CroSBy

david SWanSon

ON ThE cOvER: VAMIzI ISlAnD, MOzAMBIqUE

lauren marek

PhOtO EditOr

katy heerssen

cOntriButing

EditOr

haleybeham

writEr

amywillis

graPhic dESignEr

meredithmohrwritEr

Life mantra in 4 words: “ Work hard. Be kind.”“I geek out about…”: televi-sion shows. I am absolutely obsessed.Two weeks + an unlimited budget – where are you go-ing? I would love to go on an epic road trip all across America! Beach or mountains? I can’t think of anything better than living in a se-cluded log cabin deep in the mountains.

What’s inspiring you lately? Painting and repurposing junk I’ve collected over the years—everything from trinkets to jewelry to cloth-ing, and most of it from my grandparents’ garage.“I geek out about…” finding new music. When I discover something I like, I will make it my soundtrack for weeks.At the top of your travel bucket list: The Festival Fringe in Edinburgh, the Pushkar Camel Fair and running away to Trancoso, Brazil.Favorite plane ride activity: Uninterrupted hours of reading.

What’s inspiring you lately? Browsing Architectural Digest with a really great cup of coffee.On your nightstand now: The Things That Matter by Nate Berkus, In the Garden of Beasts by Erik Larson and Death on the Nile by Agatha Christie.At the top of your travel bucket list: People watching from a street café in Paris and visiting the Petra Trea-sury in Jordan.Favorite plane ride activity: When I’m returning home, writing about my journey and looking through all of my photos.

On your nightstand now: Bossypants by Tina Fey and the Power of one by Bryce Courtenay.Life mantra in four words: “I’ll try anything once.”At the top of your travel bucket list: I would love to go to Thailand. Riding an elephant along the beach is on my list.“If I could instantly learn a new language, I would learn…” French! I love the sophistication of the language.

What’s inspiring you lately? Trips to the Blue Moon, one of my favorite quirky plant farms and classic black and white movies—I love their style! On your nightstand now: a tree Grows in Brooklyn by Betty Smith, Summer at tiffany by Marjorie Hart and the Fault in our Stars by John Green. Two weeks + an unlimited budget – where are you going? England. I want to explore all things Jane Austen and have a good cup of tea while I’m at it! Beach or mountains? Moun-tains, definitely. Cool air and sunshine, reminds me of life on the East Coast.

On thE wEBwww.kerdowney.com

facEBOOKfacebook.com/keranddowney

twittErtwitter.com/kerdowney

Emailinfo@kerdowney.com

PhOnE800.423.4236

Photography credits include: PROPERTiEs: Tsitouras Collection - The TC Private Villa, Christos Drazos,Hôtel Cap Estel Eze Côte d’’Azur France, Amanruya Villas - Bodrum Peninsula, Azura Retreat, Buzios Villa, Dos lagos lodge, Grootbos Villa, laucala Island Resort, Mukul Resort, north Island, Pezula Castle, qualia Beach House, Royal Mansour Villas, Six Senses zighy, Soneva Fushi Maldives, Soneva Kiri, Song Saa Private Island Resort, Vamizi Island, Villa at Red Bridge, Villa Tre Ville, Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Villas, Kubatana Camp, Sal Salis,Sanctuary, le quartier Français’,Royal Malewane, Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Emirates, l’Hôtel Mont-Blanc / T. Shu, F. Ducout, l. Di Orio & DR, Rubondo Island, Taylor’s Wine Cellars, Vila Vita Parc, Bacalhau de Molho, Pastéis de Belém, Casa de linhares, Tasquinha do Oliveira, Dom Tonho, The Yeatman, quinta do Panascal, quinta da Ervamoira, quinta de Sant’Ana, lokanta Maya,Tapasuma, Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts, Juno, Ellerman House , Stevenson, Buchanan Building, The Steenberg Hotel, Grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate, is art Gallery, la Residence, Birkenhead House, Singita lembombo lodge, Singita Sweni, Saxon Boutique Hotel, lizard Island sTOcK: Thinkstock, Dreamstime, Shutterstock cONTRibuTiNG PhOTOGRaPhERs: Bob Poole, Silvia Garza, Bruce Yeung, Ralph lauren, Yeung Photography, Antone Crone

6 KER & DOWNEY

JJ watt charity claSSic

larry fitZgErald dOuBlE Play cElEBrity SOftBall gamE

at Ker & Downey, we are driven to “give back” at home and to the wide array of countries we help our clients discover. Whether it is assisting aiDs communities in southern africa, providing mosquito nets to some of africa’s most impoverished communities, supporting orphans through high school or helping to replant forests in south af-rica . . . providing the bEsT in luxury travel is what we do, but helping the less fortunate is who we are.

Ker & Downey was proud to sponsor the Home Run Derby during the inaugural JJ Watt Charity Classic on April 27. Hometown fans were treated to a display of softball skills from the Houston Texans players, and Ker & Downey President David Marek grabbed a photo with JJ Watt himself (below) after the game. The event raised over $300,000 for the Justin J. Watt Foundation which helps fund after-school athletics programs in Houston and Watt’s home state of Wisconsin.

For the second straight year, Ker & Downey teamed up with well-traveled client Larry Fitzgerald of the Arizona Cardinals to present the Double Play Celebrity Softball Game on April 27. The event benefitted Fitzgerald’s First Down Fund which provides funding to a variety of worthy causes including breast cancer research and children’s health and wellness organizations. Celebrities Snoop Lion, Jordin Sparks and Gary Payton were among the special guests competing in the friendly game while Ker & Downey Vice President David Jones watched from the field.

eVents

in this photo: Labryant Friend, David Jones, Larry Fitzgerald. uFc fighter, benson henderson.

KER & DOWNEY 7

b y H a l e y b e H a m & m e r e d i t H m o H r

THIS SEASOn’S MUST-HAVE ExPERIEnCES

a-list

Dive among the intricate coral reef systems and over 1,000 species of marine life that inhabit them in the Red sea while staying at the Four seasons sharm el sheikh in Egypt.

DivE

CliMB

S h a r m E l S h E i K h EGPYT

h u ay n a P i c c h u PERu

climb 8,920 feet above sea level to the peak of huayna Picchu in Peru for breathtaking views of Machu Picchu, the lost city of the incas, and the surrounding urubamba River valley below.

hikEg O r O n g O S a n at i O n a l Pa r K MOzaMbiquE

hike through dense rainforest to the revitalizing pools at the base of Murombodzi Waterfall, discovering the diverse flora and variety of wildlife in Gorongosa National Park along the way.

tastE

sip

ENCoUNtER

t E a ta S t i n g chiNa

Taste one of china’s most prized green teas Longjing, renowned for its high quality, complex aromas and smooth, refreshing taste among the terraced hillsides of a hangzhou tea plantation.

K i l c h O m a n d i S t i l l E r yscOTLaND

sip a dram of whisky crafted from house-grown barley at scotland’s landmark Kilchoman Distillery, while taking in the view of islay and the sea lochs of the scottish coast.

r Oya l m a l E wa n EsOuTh aFRica

Encounter an abundance of leopard and the rest of the big Five with the expert guides at Royal Malewane in the heart of the Kruger.

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S a l S a l i S ausTRaLia

F O U R S E A S O N S R E S O R T c H I A N G M A I , ThaiLaND

T H E TA S T I N G R O O M sOuTh aFRica

G U L F O F G ö kO VATuRKEY

T H E G O L D E N T E M p L E iNDia

D A D E S VA L L E YMOROccO

s N o R k E l

R E l a x

D i N E

sw i M

s E E

D R i v E

snorkel at sal salis off the western coast of australia with turtles and manta rays in the turquoise waters of Ningaloo Reef, the world’s largest fringing reef system.

Treat yourself to the new spa 101 sessions at Four seasons Resort chiang Mai. With options like the romantic couple’s Thai Massage Lesson, guests get versed in the techniques needed to recreate blissful relaxation at home. Dig deeper and learn the benefits of Thai herbs such as lemongrass, prai root and ginger by signing up for a DiY Thai herbal Wrap and Rice and spice body scrub.

Dine without rules at Le quartier Français’ The Tasting Room in Franschhoek, south africa. Executive chef Margot Janse’s surprise Tasting Menu is designed to delight in the spirit of african storytelling, with courses revealed one by one, transforming regional ingredients into foodie theatre.

swim in the tranquil, turquoise waters of a secluded cove in the Gulf of Gökova, the narrow gulf of the aegean sea between southwest Turkey’s beach-lined bodrum and Datça peninsulas.

Gaze at The Golden Temple, amritsar, india’s impressive two-story marble, gold-plated house of sikh culture before crossing the bridge over amrit sarovar, the pool surrounding it, to enter into one of the ancient city’s most sacred religious centers.

Drive through Morocco’s scenic Dades valley, with semi-desert on one side and the snow-capped atlas Mountains on the other, to the dramatic, carved-out canyons of the spectacular Todra Gorge.

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For the fifth straight year, Ker & Downey has been named to

Travel + Leisure Magazine’s World’s Best Awards. We count on

you, our traveled clients, to nominate and vote for us each year,

and we cannot thank you enough for helping tell the world how

much Ker & Downey has impacted you through experiential

world travel. We are dedicated to bringing more of the big,

beautiful world to you with custom journeys that marry the

luxurious with the authentic, and we can’t wait to see where

you want to go next.

T H A N K Y O UT R A V E L + L E I S U R E M A G A Z I N E ’ S W O R L D ‘ S B E S T A W A R D S 2 0 1 3

Singita Lebombo Lodge, Sou th Afric A

FIVE YEARS IN A ROW

OPEnInGS, REVAMPS AnD THE lATEST TRAVEl nEWS

arriVals

Mandarin Oriental Pudong Lobby.Singita Lebombo Lodge, South Af r icA KER & DOWNEY 13

four seasons Hotel lion palaceSt. PeterSburg

With opulent High Classical architectural design and a rich, storied past, the Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace in St. Petersburg makes its grand entrance as a 177 room-and-suite hotel. Two restored marble lions by Italian sculptor Paolo Triscorni stand guard at the base of an imposing stone staircase leading to the main entrance of the palace, just as they have for two centuries. “The House with Lions”, as city residents know it, was given by Prince Alexey Lobanov-Rostovsky, 19th-century diplomat, writer, art collector and nobleman of Tsar Alexander I, to his wife for use as an elite apartment house. It evolved into the city’s cultural center, later into the Ministry of War and housed a hostel, school and state architectural bureau during the Soviet era. While guests are sure to enjoy the building’s splendor and original details such as moldings, bespoke ivory-colored wardrobes and gilt features of the guest rooms, the amenities are all modern from mirrors with built in televisions to terraces with heated marble floors. Located a stone’s throw from legendary St. Isaac’s Cathedral in the city center, the hotel maintains its influence with two signature restaurants, an all-day dining lounge and the impressive Xander Bar with its walnut-paneled walls and double-sided fireplace. Here, guests can experience the royal treatment while sipping on handcrafted cocktails served with a Baltic twist.

Mandarin oriental pudong Shanghai

Located on the east bank of the Huangpu River, the sleek modern structure draws the eye. Just as the hotel’s carefully curated Contemporary Chinese art collection—the most extensive in Shanghai—is bound to attract visitors in search of a luxe stay and cultural immersion. Inspired by the city’s futuristic skyline, the movement of the river, carved Chinese window frames and Shanghai’s plane trees, the interior engulfs guests in serenity and intimacy with a soft color palette and warm, reflective bronze tones. Rooms with waterfront views, a butterfly-themed spa, signature Chinese restaurant Yong Yi Ting and the sparkling Qi Bar further that certain sense of place.

Photo courtesy of Four seasons hotels & Resorts.

Photo courtesy of Mandarin Oriental hotel Group.14 KER & DOWNEY

aMan canal grandeVenice

Aman raises the bar in the iconic Italian city with a new location in the historic district of San Polo flecked with palaces, churches and legendary markets. Launched in June with the opening of the Venetian Biennale, the 24-suite resort is housed in a palazzo and consists of two five-story buildings and private gardens. Fittingly, guests arrive by canal and are instantly transported to another world when the soaring ceilings, historic frescoes and reliefs and sweeping staircase of the Reception Hall greet them. Beautifully detailed suites decked with spacious living rooms, a king-sized bed, personal bar and haute furnishings ensure the inhabitants are awash in comfort. Many offer views of the fabled Grand Canal.

Photos courtesy of amanresorts

Big REvEal

Nipped, tucked and fully modernized for the travelers that pass through its gates annually, the new, sustainable Tom Bradley International Terminal at LAX unveils 18 roomier gates with plush waiting areas, a Great Hall for upscale dining and luxury retail shopping. Of the 36 boutiques, 27 are new to the airport and 9 are total exclusives. All amount to the biggest public works project in Los Angeles’ history.

Photo courtesy of WestfieldatLaX.

sWeet retreats

Banyan Tree Hotels and Resorts has two distinct new outposts, Banyan Tree Chongqing Beibei and Banyan Tree Tianjin Riverside. The first is an innovative 48-suite and 59-villa resort in the healing north hot springs of Chongqing, all featuring private hot spring pools. Its spa offers unique and restorative wellness treatments as well as seven indoor and outdoor hot spring pools. Five culinary venues offer Chinese

delicacies from Sichuan cuisine to tea in the lobby and cigar bar. Away from the flora and fauna of Chongqing, the Tianjin locale is in the center of the action, with 159 tranquil rooms designed to complement forays into the vibrant city. Guests get a taste of the country at the property’s River Café and Grill, which serves farm-to-table specialties utilizing seasonal, home-grown, organic produce from Banyan Tree Tianjin Riverside’s “Happy Farm” in the Xiqing district.

Photo courtesy of Regent hotels & Resorts.

Photos courtesy of banyan Tree hotels & Resorts.

regent bali

The “Island of the Gods” is now home to Regent Hotels & Resorts only Indonesian property. Tucked into ten acres of lush, tropical gardens spanning the pristine golden beach, the 120-room all-suite and residence-style resort offers classic, family-friendly, Balinese-style indoor/outdoor living. From early morning to evening, traditional gamelan musicians create a hypnotic and soothing environment. And treatments such as Balinese therapeutic massage entice guests to go native at the onsite spa.

cHinzoMbo sustainable busH caMpZambia

The wildly luxurious brainchild of Norman Carr Safaris situated in the game-rich Luangwa, valley of the leopard, elevates the global standard of eco luxury tourism. South African architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens—the visionary designers behind North Island Resort in the Seychelles and Little Vumbura Camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta—have created a low impact yet cutting edge design that also employs the skills and creativity of local craftsmen and artisans using local building methods. Six spacious, WiFi-equipped villas are built into a thicket of ancient trees and seem to float over the landscape. Activities abound for every guest’s passion from yoga and fitness lovers to those who delight in the thrill of the bush.

Fly even friendlier skies and spruce up miles high in Emirates A380 First Class Shower Spa. The first-scheduled-first served showers are tidy and luxuriously stocked with premium bath and body products.

yo Picasso. self PortraitswhErE: Museu Picasso, BarcelonawhEn: Now till Sept. 1why: Get face to face with the first major monographic exhibition of the master’s self portraits.

fête de la GastronomieFrench cuIsIne FesTIvAL

whErE: Roanne, Avignon and throughout FrancewhEn: Sept. 20-22why: Head to the streets and indulge in food inspired by the country’s iconic terroirs.

semana musical llao llao XXiwhErE: Llao Llao Hotel Bariloche, ArgentinawhEn: Oct. 12-20why: Fill your soul with classical music in the idyllic foothills of the Andes.

Photos courtesy Norman carr safaris.

Photo courtesy Norman carr safaris

Photo courtesy of Museu Picasso, barcelona.

Pablo Picasso self Portrait, 1907Oil on canvas 56 x 46 cmNational Gallery in Prague© National Gallery in Prague 2013© sucesión Pablo Picasso, vEGaP, Madrid 2013]

FREsh Flights

MaiN EvENts

KER & DOWNEY 17

THE FINEST WAY IN THE WORLD TO DISCOVERINDIA?Acclaimed among the finest hotels, the Palaces of The Leela have redefined grandeur and Indian luxury, with their emphasis on soulful hospitality. Today, they are the benchmark around the world for travelling connoisseurs. Come, savor a richness that transcends the tangible.

Undoubtably, A Leela Palace.

The Leela Reservations Worldwide: 855 670 3444 (U.S. Toll Free), +91 124 4425 444 (Private lines), Email: reservations@theleela.comThe Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts: New Delhi, Bangalore, Chennai, Mumbai, Gurgaon, Udaipur, Goa and Kovalam. Future developments: Jaipur; Agra; Lake Ashtamudi (Kerala); Bhartiya City, Bangalore and Supernova, Noida.

explorations“In WISDOM GATHERED OVER TIME I HAVE FOUnD THAT EVERY

ExPERIEnCE IS A FORM OF ExPlORATIOn.” – AnSEl ADAMS

KER & DOWNEY 19

Photo caption

Rubondo island’s wild main road.

wild worldKaty heerssen previews the paradise on rubondo island, a secret gem on lake Victoria that proves as unpredictable as it is peaceful.

the island home of Asilia Africa’s newest addition, Rubondo Island Camp, is a bit of an enigma to me. One-part relaxed waterfront retreat and one-part field day for active adventurers, I found it so different from the traditional safari, jungle or island experience. Still, all three are a part of its identity. Uninhabited and unexplored for decades, Tanzania’s Rubondo Island is the largest island national park in Africa, and Rubondo Island Camp is the only property on some 170 square miles in Lake Victoria’s southwestern corner. Nearly all of that area is forested with sub-tropical flora, which is what attracted the attention of Professor Bernhard Grzimek of the Frankfurt Zoological Society and set the scene for the island’s unique population today.

KER & DOWNEY 21

In 1966 Grzimek released the first of four cohorts of chimpanzees onto the island, all having been liberated from captivity in European zoos and circuses. In the years that followed, Rubondo became a sort of experimental wildlife refuge with antelope, elephant, giraffe and black-and-white colobus monkeys joining the wild-born chimps and being left to their own devices in the protected jungle. Over time the relocated conglomeration has thrived, with elephant numbers now estimated in the 70s and the chimpanzee population having grown to around 40 from the original 17. Any habituation these animals may have had at one time has been forgotten as decades without the company of human neighbors or tourists has let their instincts take control.

Nature has literally let loose on Rubondo, from the species released by Grzimek to the thick forest left unbothered under national park protection to the seemingly impenetrable tangles of vines, logs and mossy trunks. All add to the wild mystery of the place.

The unpaved road that snakes across the island can be a challenge to navigate. On my jaunt through this jungle, guide Victoria fittingly called the bumpy ride a “Rubondo Massage”. The drive was

serene and green on all sides, transporting me through a tunnel of plant life. When passing from the cover of trees into sunny clearings, I felt it on my skin just as much as if I was on the open savannah, but without the smothering humidity of Tanzania’s Indian Ocean coast. As we drove we spotted countless groups of butterflies wicking moisture from animal dung in the road, each exploding in a cloud of color as we passed. The occasional bushbuck was interrupted on its warm patch beside the road and bolted back into that impossible knot of foliage after staring at our truck for a moment. But the real stars of the show on a drive through Rubondo are the masses of birds. Over 200 species have been recorded within the national park including grey African parrots, whose ancestors were released on the island in the 1970s after being confiscated from the illegal animal trade.

Wildlife has the right of way on this island and can interfere with commuting. For me, elephants and an immovable downed tree lead to an unexpected jungle trek in flip flops. The same gentle giants from the Serengeti that delighted me with their play are the overzealous landscape architects of Rubondo. Native fruit trees descending from groves planted by the pre-1960s island settlers are irresistible to the elephants. Their appetite for sweet fruit, plus their massive size in such close quarters, leaves a path of felled timber that often crosses the island’s narrow roads.

tHe driVe Was serene and green on all sides, transporting Me tHrougH a

tunnel of plant life.

Opposite Page: a cruise at Lake victoria at sunrise.

Right: butterflies are a colorful roadblock.

22 KER & DOWNEY

Lake victoria is deceiving in i ts serenity . . . crocodi les and hippos can regularly be seen patrol l ing offshore.

KER & DOWNEY 25

clockwise from top left: Nile perch are an angler’s delight; the lakeside

main lodge; inviting nooks are found throughout camp.

Main lodge’s private deck; spot an african Grey parrot; camp lighting incorporates recycled glass and bottles.

Sometimes a machete will take care of the problem, but when it doesn’t, the choices are either to turn around or to walk ahead. Forward we went on foot to one of the highest points on the island, and back down to the waiting boat, surrounded by the hum of the jungle. Yes, it was unplanned, but if not for this hike I would have missed hearing the calls of a troop of black-and-white colobus and catching a glimpse of one of them from a distance. As on a traditional safari, exploring by foot on Rubondo is often a completely different experience from a drive.

The only way to get close to the secretive chimps that live on the northern end of the island is by foot. Currently it is very rare to see them out and about, but international researchers are in the early stages of the habituation process with hopes of making them more visible to visitors in the future. Walking through their habitat with one of the researchers to see the signs of their activity is a testament to the success story of Rubondo as a conservation island.

The attitude of conservation translates into Rubondo Island Camp’s physical structures, all constructed with materials sourced on the mainland to protect the integrity of the island forest. Just eight chalets, all with lake views, are a part of this paradise. Here I not only have running water fed by the lake, but I also have the luxury of three solid walls and a roof. The fourth wall is canvas and mesh, the perfect floor-to-ceiling window to the lake and a reminder of the wild surroundings.

Baths are fitted with rain showers, double sinks with handmade soaps and refillable pump bottles of shampoo, conditioner and body wash. I yearn to replicate the modular concrete built-ins of the bath in my suburbia closet back home. The bed itself is built into the wall too, and the switches for the over-bed lights and wall sconces are right next to my head as I sleep. Through the windows at night I hear the waves of the lake crashing, tricking me into thinking I am in an ocean-side cabana.

Anyone who’s been to Africa knows the sun does some incredible things to the sky. New colors are on display each dawn and dusk, never in the same combination and never failing to make one stop and look out at an expanse of land rarely seen in such splendor. On Rubondo it’s no different. The camp’s main lounge and dining area have the privilege of overlooking the lake on two sides, making it the perfect place to watch the sunrise and sunset paint the sky with vibrant purple, orange, pink and gold. I live for watching the reflecting lake light up each day.

Lake Victoria is deceiving in its serenity. The beach at camp is beautiful, but it is not for swimming—crocodiles and hippos have claimed the waters for their own and can regularly be seen patrolling offshore. There are a number of nooks and marshy coves around the island and on surrounding islets where crocodiles and monitor lizards like to relax. One spot in particular is populated entirely by birds. Here I see trees brimming with cormorants, fish eagles, sacred ibis and a variety of stork species. Boat rides through the national park are full of these little vignettes of shore activity. There is also a fair amount of World War I history in the area, including German trenches and tunnels that we accessed by boat. Anglers are at home here too, of course. The lake is stuffed with Nile perch, with some of the largest on record topping 220 pounds. Hence, our catch of the day is considerably easier to handle.

Rubondo Island Camp includes a family suite that sleeps up to five. A honeymoon suite is set on the far end of the beach to take full advantage of the panorama, enhanced by an additional outdoor shower. Honeymooners on the island get first dibs on the dhow and the private dining deck at the main lodge. A pool surrounded by a wooden deck overlooks the lake for those who simply must take a dip, and a massage set to the waves from the lake is an ideal way to fill the afternoon hours between excursions.

As difficult as it is to put my finger on Rubondo Island, I fell in love with this place. Its residents are an unlikely combination of animals that have somehow coexisted on their own for decades, and its atmosphere is the definition of wild. A stay at Rubondo Island Camp is the perfect continuation of a Tanzanian safari experience. Rubondo is in a category all its own, speaking honestly, to the adventurer within.

KER & DOWNEY 29

neW colors are on displaY eacH daWn and dusk, neVer in tHe saMe coMbination and neVer failing to Make one stop and look out at an expanse of land rarelY seen in sucH splendor.

Porto’s coastal view.

PortugAl u nc o r K e dthE fOOd & winE lOvEr’S guidE

BY KATY HEERSSEN

ortugal’s history is enriched by generations of trade and seafaring. This epic past has evolved its food

into an eclectic art and the act of eating into an experience. Tracing the country’s culinary prowess from coast to countryside features encounters with vintners and chefs who pride themselves in putting the traditions and trends of its native cuisine on display.

P

KER & DOWNEY 31

indulge riverside at Dom Tonho.

indulge riverside at Dom Tonho.

Port wine is as famous as any other monument in the city, and you will get a taste of some of the best at Taylor’s Wine Cellars. Now in its fourth century, the House of Taylor’s is one of the oldest Port companies and the only place to taste a rare 150-year-old tawny port, which was discovered in 2008 in a wine lodge in the Corgo Valley, still perfectly preserved in an oak barrel.

Porto SiP and SaVor Vinho do Porto in the oldeSt defined

wine region in the world.

the Yeatman, a wine hotel in the Historic Port Wine Cellar District in Porto, makes a perfect launching point as the city’s address of choice for discerning travelers and wine lovers. Under the guidance of Executive Chef Ricardo Costa, The Yeatman Restaurant features imaginative cuisine that interprets the traditional Portuguese ingredients of fresh fish and produce, presenting them in a modern style. The selection of more than 1,000 Portuguese and international wines are perfectly paired by Chef Costa and Wine Director Beatriz Machado. A seasonal menu keeps diners intrigued, and this summer’s favorite—a slowly cooked, glazed veal cheek pairs nicely with the Douro Valley’s own Quinta do Crasto Tinta Roriz 2009 vintage. At The Yeatman’s award-winning Caudalie

Vinothérapie® Spa, guests can also indulge in wine in a unique way with vineyard-inspired treatments such as a bath of red wine in a bubbling barrel-inspired tub.

To indulge in a slice of history, head to the city’s historic center and local favorite Dom tonho. Its UNESCO-protected structures range from 200 to 400 years in age. Its closest neighbor is the Douro River, the very channel by which wine barrels were once transported from the wine country to the city’s thirsty citizens. From the exposed stone in the dining room and bar to the spooky tunnel in the wine cellar, visitors find plenty beyond the stellar menu to satisfy their curiosity. Don’t miss barbecued octopus or the Iberian pork paired with Mediterranean clams, two hearty dishes from a menu that showcases the best of the region’s varied delights from land and sea.

house of Taylor’s and the Yeatman showcase the best in food and wine. below: Dine alongside historic walls at Dom Tonho.

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On a privately-chauffeured tour, stop in the shadow of Jerónimos Monastery to sample a sweet treat from the Pastéis de Belém pastry boutique. Born in 1837 in a former sugar cane refinery attached to the monastery, this shop became famous thanks to a secret recipe that originated from the cloister’s residents. The ingredients remain unaltered and guarded by the master confectioners who craft arguably the most decadent custard tarts in Portugal.

LISBoN taKe a culinary journey along the eSPlanadeS and

through the StreetS of Portugal’S moSt Storied city.

When the sun goes down the wistful sounds of Fado fill the winding streets in Alfama, the city’s oldest district east of its center. The haunting folk music of Lisbon mingles beautifully with the scene and cuisine at the Bacalhau de Molho restaurant within the 16th-century walls of Casa de Linhares. Performers of all ages flock to Alfama to play this gig. Travelers can easily get lost in their mournful ballads while indulging in à la carte and prix fixe menus that celebrate the region’s seafaring heritage. Try a shrimp cocktail served in a fresh papaya, grouper sprinkled with fried banana and pineapple and finish the evening with the traditional Barriga de Freira breadcrumb desert. Delicious adventures can be found beyond the seven hills of Portugal’s capital.

North of Lisbon lies Mafra and a countryside peppered with farms and vineyards, like hundreds of years old Quinta de Sant’Ana. Just outside of the charming village of Gradil, owners James and Ann Frost are aided by their international team in the crafting of boutique reds and whites, six out of the ten being single grape varietals. Varied soils and elevations found throughout the 24 acres of vineyards allow for very different growth and ripening conditions vine to vine, and ultimately, a catalog of vintages that run the gamut from crisp Rieslings to rich Touriga Nacional blends. A private tour of this unique wine estate pairs perfectly with a lunch in the shade of the property’s old growth olive and fruit orchards, just as their carefully crafted menu of regional delights complements their cherished wines.

West of Lisbon, the coastal community of Cascais has been simpatico with the culinary treasures of the sea since the Middle Ages. Local favorite Porto de Santa Maria is the best place to taste the tradition. The menu features a section dedicated solely to shellfish, and the chefs serve local, market-fresh standards like cod, hake and flounder with authentic flair. A sweeping view of the Atlantic completes the already inspired dining experience.

The famous Fado echos through the casa de Linhares (left) and Pastéis de belém satisfies a sweet tooth.

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A sweeping view of the At lantic c o mple te s

the already inspired dining e x pe rie nc e .

ALgArvE

Vacationers flock to the southernmost region of Portugal for the sun and the sand. Ideally situated, the stunning vILA vItA Parc resort delivers plenty of both, and its exceptional cuisine is a memorable part of the experience. Helmed by Austrian-born Chef Hans Neuner, the two Michelin Star restaurant Ocean is the crown jewel of the six gourmet eateries on property. His inventive menu includes selections that explore the whole of Portuguese cuisine from the farm to the sea, including tempting dishes such as avocado-crab cannelloni with prawns and black pork with mustard leaves and wild asparagus. Venture into the Cave de Vinhos, which is 26 feet below the ground and stocked with over 11,000 bottles from cellars across Portugal, Europe and the world. Culinary experiences are widely diverse across the resort. Enjoy premium grilled specialties for dinner and a show from the open kitchen of the Aladin Grill. Or dine at the Bavarian-inspired Biergarten, complete with a butcher and gourmet shop offering homemade sausages and wines produced at the VILA VITA’s Alentejo estate, Herdade dos Grous.

AwAken the gourmet within At PortugAl’s

fAvorite resort destinAtion.

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ALENtEjo

Far from Portugal’s larger cities, agriculture-rich Alentejo values a life lived slowly. While the quaint atmosphere of tiny restaurant tasquinha do oliveira fits with this region, its charm masks its gastronomic adeptness. Located in the historic town of Évora, originally a Roman settlement, the restaurant with just over a dozen seats showcases the typical Alentejo flavors. The selections here include more meat and game dishes than found on the menus in the coastal locales. Still, the breaded prawns with garlic are counted among the most popular bites. Generously seasoned with coriander and chorizo, migas with pork, roasted goat or lamb stew all satisfy. In fact, every item on the extensive menu incorporates plenty of fresh spices. Be prepared for generous portions. Wise epicureans would do well to reserve an ample amount of time to fully experience the offerings of this intimate eatery.

taKe a tiP from the localS and indulge in an unhurried

exPerience in thiS rural ProVince.

Évora icons: stunning monuments and culinary delights at Tasquinha do Oliveira.

Douro vALLEY maKe a Pilgrimage to the

birthPlace of Port.

The Douro River flows to Porto. It is the gateway to Portugal’s wine country, where the industry stretches back to biblical times. Among the scores of wineries in this UNESCO-recognized landscape, two stand out for their unique history and excellent vintages.

The Ramos-Pinto family is a clan synonymous with outstanding wine production and their legacy continues at Quinta da Ervamoira in the Douro Valley. Getting to the winery is an adventure in itself, requiring a foray by Jeep onto an unpaved road. The beautiful home sits at the center of the estate, surrounded by a pioneering collection of vineyards which have set a new standard for planting and growing sustainably within the industry. Among their liquid treasures is the Duas Quintas Reserve Red which ages for two and a half years before it is ready to be savored.

Located on the Távora River, a tributary of the Douro, Quinta do Panascal was one of the first wine estates to open its doors to the public in 1922. Since then the winery has achieved Level A status by the Port Wine Institute thanks to its award-winning offerings, most notably the 1994 Vintage of Fonseca. This selection and many others can be sampled at the estate—ideally experienced at a private picnic on the grounds overlooking the vineyards, accompanied by Portuguese deli favorites such as deep-fried cod cakes and Douro almonds.

Though among Europe’s smaller countries, Portugal packs a delicious punch for travelers in search of unforgettable gastronomy. Its borders contain a wealth of history, fantastic scenery and the ideal blend of old and new. For foodies and culture enthusiasts alike the country is truly one of the world’s best-kept secrets, and it’s ripe for a visit.

creative wine barrel furniture is part of the tasting experience at quinta do Panascal.

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bY MaRTiNE buRY

High and low, haute and hip, the ancient city on the shores of the Bosphorus is a shopper’s paradise.

shopping spree in Istanbul takes time. Storeowners often offer chocolates, tea and Turkish delights, tell engaging stories and

invite customers to participate in an age-old dance of buyer and seller. With a rich tradition as a center for trade and retail that dates back 2,000 years, Istanbul is the ideal destination for modern day hunters and gatherers up for adventure. First, visit the illustrious city’s greatest albeit essential hits— legendary Topkapi Palace, Basilica Cistern, Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque. Then experience Istanbul like a local, exploring the Old City’s labyrinthine Grand Bazaar and stylish neighborhoods, like the enchanting Nisantasi, with its luxury boutiques and sidewalk cafes.

A

IstanbulShopping

KER & DOWNEY 41

T h e G r a n d B a z a a rSixty city streets, 22 doors, four main gates and over 3,500 shops make up one of the world’s oldest and largest covered markets. Although the hordes of tourists, tacky souvenirs and endless invitations to bargain can be daunting, it would be a shame to disregard serious exploration of this massive monument to retail. Not only is it the headquarters for buying gold in Istanbul, it is also one of the few places on earth one can embark on a true treasure hunt for all types of luxurious bounty—from rare Byzantine antiques to exquisite, colorful Turkish textiles. Think of it this way, the Grand Bazaar is the perfect excuse to travel with an extra, empty suitcase.

carve out a few hours to shop and explore the Grand bazaar in the heart of the Old city.

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CASHMERE HOUSE BY ÍLYAS AKSUThe cheerful and well-reputed boutique is neatly packed from floor to ceiling with a dizzying selection of sumptuous, authentic pashmina wraps, delicate silk scarves and hand-loomed cashmere items. The friendly owners proudly display a photo of Uma Thurman shopping there. KESECILER CAD.NO: 49-51 www.cashmerehouse.com.tr

whERE to shop

MUHLIS GUNBATTIDreamy and intricate Suzani pillows, hand-woven tapestries, ornate vintage clothes and traditional Ottoman and Central Asian textiles fill this arch-ceilinged, generations-owned boutique, wall to wall. PERDAHCILAR CADDESI NO: 48 www.muhlisgunbatti.com.tr

DERVISA dimly lit, exotic little outpost, Dervis boasts a tightly curated selection of home accessories from vintage textiles and cotton towels to jewel-toned mohair blankets and rich, ethnic handiworks from artisans all over Turkey. KESECILER CAD. NO: 33-35 www.dervis.com

LALE STERLINGHard to miss, legendary Lale Sterling sparkles with treasure made by Turkey’s master silversmiths. The family trade dates back to 1936, with the Grand Bazaar store open since 1959. From picture frames to opulent tea sets, Lale specializes in reproductions of 17th and 18th century silver arts designs. KAPALI CARSI CEVAHIR BEDESTAN NO: 254-257 www.gumuslale.com

DHOKUFor lovers of contemporary rug design inspired by the Anatolian heritage, dhoku appeals to modern tastes with handcrafted floor coverings in minimalist patterns and high quality wools worthy of chic design magazines. KAPALI CARSI TAKKECILER SOKAK NO: 58-60 www.dhoku.com

MOURATH PASHAStocked with a wide array of beach-ready pestemals—thin, often striped and versatile Turkish towels—at every price point, this tiny store also offers hand towels and pretty, patterned scarves in pure cotton and high quality organic linen. RESSAM BASMACILAR SOKAK. NO: 34-36

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BEYMENIstanbul’s answer to Barneys New York, this luxury department store offers fine chocolate, homewares, bespoke fragrances, independent Turkish designers and trendsetting global brands such as Lanvin, Marc Jacobs, Paul Smith and Jimmy Choo. www.beymen.com

ARMAGGANLocated on Abdi Ipekci Caddesi, Nisantasi’s most desirable address, the seven-story store stocks exclusive collections of to-die-for caftans, hand dyed textiles, jewelry and luxury leather goods. An onsite art and design gallery makes this a must-stop for discerning shoppers. www.armaggan.com/en

GASIAA truly unique and decadent jewelry store from a designer worn by Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex and the City 2, the items here are true statement pieces featuring precious stones and 24-karat gold. www.gasiajewelry.com

ARZU KAPROLFashion designer Arzu Kaprol has made a name for herself on the runways of the world, at renowned retail destinations such as Harrods of London, and on the much-photographed bodies of celebrities such as model Gisele Bundchen and actress Meg Ryan. Her Nisantasi flagship speaks to her reputation for refinement and attention to detail. www.arzukaprol.net

VAKKO 75Affluent locals with old school tastes for custom men’s suits, preppy women’s wear and more formal attire revere this fashion retailer. The interior’s sleek, customized seating offers welcome respite for weary shoppers. www.vakko.com

n i s a n Ta s idrop into nisantası’s bustling streets for high-end retail therapy, trendy restaurants and the city’s most fashionable people watching. As the affluent residential district and haute retail hub of Istanbul’s European side, it’s the place beautiful locals flock to for power lunches on weekdays and chic dining on weekends. In Turkish, the word Nisantasi means ‘marking stone’. Also, it is the place where celebrated Turkish journalist Abdi Ipekci was assassinated in 1979. Despite the grim history, today the area is home to Chanel, Jo Malone, Prada and scores of international luxury brands.

MagiC CaRpEts Awe-inspiring craftsmanship sets Nakkas Fine Oriental Rugs & Textiles apart. With a breathtaking location in the Sultanahmet area near the Blue Mosque, this multi-storied rug emporium is run by three generations of Turkish rug purveyors. A stop here is as educational as it is one of the very best places to purchase the country’s most famous handicraft. From antique to contemporary, every piece tells a story. Visitors are even given a turn at the loom. For those who take the plunge, Nakkas offers world wide door-to-door delivery at a nice price. All of this sits atop a 16th Century Byzantine Cistern Nakkas has transformed into a gallery with seasonal exhibitions. www.nakkasrug.com

whERE to shop

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EtC.What to do with the rest of the day

The city offers many modern diversions to punctuate a day of shopping. Not to be missed, Istanbul Modern museum is a refreshing juxtaposition to ancient ruins, gilded mosques and mind-bending traffic. The tightly- edited Past and Future permanent collection is a succinct journey through Turkey’s art history. Wide, crystal-clear windows boast stunning views of the Bosphorus. www.istanbulmodern.org

eatFor foodies, Istanbul serves up glamorous dining venues that often evolve into a sophisticated nightlife scene. Here’s a short list.

staYThe perfect home base for exploring Istanbul, Four Season’s Bosphorus is luxury lodging at its finest. Awash in natural sunlight by day, the hotel is a calm, heavenly scented oasis in the storm of a vibrant city. From the lavish spread for breakfast each morning, decidedly Turkish style, at Aqua restaurant to what is reputed to be Istanbul’s best spa, the contemporary decor is visible throughout what was once a 19th Century Ottoman Palace. Gastronomic excellence, an elegant bar scene and flawless service and amenities are de rigueur, true to brand. Be sure to request a Bosphorus facing room in the Palace Building.

lokaNta MaYaA clean, candlelit aesthetic and tapas style shared plates are perfection at this low-key venue off the beaten path. Kick things off with a dry Turkish rosé and the light zucchini-feta fritters. www.lokantamaya.com

tapasUMaAnother great expression of the city’s tapas trend, this modern resto on the Bosphorus with crisp white walls and soaring ceilings is a feast for the eyes and the appetite. Seafood and traditional mezzes are served with a modern twist. www.tapasuma.com

MiklaOne of Istanbul’s most exclusive restaurants and happening nightspots, Mikla is the brainchild of renowned Turco-Finnish Chef Mehmet Gürs. For a taste of his beautiful interpretations of seasonal fare, try the Tasting Menu with drink pairings from the ideal perch of this rooftop eatery. www.miklarestaurant.com

gilEAn exclusive collection of carefully curated Turasan wines from Cappadocia is just a sampling of this hip venue’s culinary offerings. Opened in May, the hotspot is an ideal place to tuck into an inventive, elegant dinner or casual lunch, topped off with a sweet Turkish coffee. www.gilerestaurant.com

JUNoGreat any time of the day or night, Nisantasi’s upscale-casual café serves expertly crafted crowd pleasers such as thin crust pizza with locally made cheese curd and generous charcuterie as well as inspired, seasonal cocktails by the house mixologist. www.junojuno.com

Photos courtesy of Lokanta Maya.

Photo courtesy of Tapasuma.

Photos courtesy of Four seasons hotels & Resorts.

whERE to shop

artist: Wayne barker Great African postcard

Martine Bury Tours South Africa’s Modern Art & Wine Scenes.

Already home to one of the world’s most captivating and most affordable wine regions, South Africa is fast becoming an exciting place to collect fine art. The eyes of the world are fixing their gaze on the continent’s largest economy, in search of something new.

Woefully underfunded by government entities, the biggest benefactors of South Africa’s creative output, until recently, have been wealthy local collectors and South African expats living abroad. In the last decade, this has been changing with the participation of the country’s artists and influential galleries at big international art fairs, such as Art Basel in Miami. For the layperson and the connoisseur wanting to see what’s taking root in South Africa, the hotels, resorts and winding vineyard routes provide the best entrée to a unique way of exploring the country’s visual artworks. Armed with this knowledge, I embark on a journey that pairs wine and art. Which, unexpectedly, reveals the soul of the country.

A Perfect pairing

KER & DOWNEY 47

C A P E T O W Nliving with art is far different from contemplating it. At Cape Town’s landmark Ellerman House in Bantry Bay, I begin my initiation on a routine trip from my suite through a hallway lined with paintings that span the 19th and early 20th centuries, including some of the earliest depictions of the then undeveloped Bantry Bay by South African artist Jan Ernst Abraham Volschenk. Elegant and sumptuous, this nine-suite and two-villa boutique hotel houses one of the most important and extensive private collections of South African art in the country, as well as a 9,000-bottle wine cellar. Yet there isn’t a stitch of pretention or stiffness. Beneath the neatly manicured lawn of the terrace, Ellerman Contemporary Gallery shows an impressive rotating roster of the country’s blue chip masters, like Jean Welz, an emerging talent. One would never assume such a formidable collection of modern art rumbles beneath the relaxed lounge chairs that face the stunning expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. There are no secret service-style security guards lurking and no groups of people competing for a view. In fact, there is no formal tour, and it is suggested that guests explore on their leisure. I appreciate the one-on-one time with the art but, mostly, appreciate that it’s merely there for our enjoyment.

Eatthe test kitchen, the old biscuit mill375 albert roadWoodstock

Cape Town is a standout in the contemporary art world, attracting international collectors. Innovative galleries are the pioneers of up-and-coming neighborhoods like Woodstock and the powerhouses of the thriving city center.

sEEeverard read3 Portswood road Cape Town

brundyn + gonsalves71 Loop StreetCape Town

the ava gallery35 Church Street Cape Town

worldart54 Church StreetCape Town

Stevenson, buchanan building160 Sir Lowry roadWoodstock

shopashanti design133-135 Sir Lowry roadWoodstock

clementina ceramics, the old biscuit mill375 albert roadWoodstock

Odili Donald Odita installations stevenson, buchanan building.

To Andy, Those Pictures On The Walls, Guy Peppin

s h o R t l i s t : C A P E T O W N A r T C r AW l

a swank villa at Ellerman house.

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Odili Donald Odita installations stevenson, buchanan building.

C A P E W I N E l A N D Sthe thread that connects Ellerman House to the Cape Winelands intertwines art and wine, most tangibly through the artists like sculptor Dylan Lewis, whose work is exhibited at the hotel. South African born Lewis is one of the world’s most renowned sculptors of the animal form. His imposing bronze figures are born out of his years of exploration of how humans coexist with the wilderness both existentially and physically. The concierge can arrange a visit to his studio, aptly located in Stellenbosch in the wine country of the Western Cape.

We break for lunch at The Steenberg Hotel’s Bistro Sixteen82 in the Constantia Winelands. A 20-minute drive from the city through bucolic country eases me into the scene. With sweeping views of False Bay, an emerald golf course and a pristine farmhouse in sight, the entrance to Steenberg Estate is a grand one. It’s the Cape’s oldest farm, a storied place founded by a farmer named Catharina in 1682. She had five husbands, one of whom was killed by a lion. Legend has it she summarily shot the murderous feline, and this is depicted in artworks around the hotel. We have two tastings, Graham Beck bubbly followed by the estate wines. Steenberg’s Catharina Red 2009 and Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2009 are revelations, taut and modern in this historic place. Bistro Sixteen82’s sleek, open-floor design and origami-inspired hanging art marries the nature outside through floor-to-ceiling windows. Farm-to-table standouts such as the Sweetcorn Velouté with Charred Corn and Truffle and sustainable fish are only topped by the best sticky toffee pudding I have ever had. A serious collector of fine art, Steenberg’s owner Graham Beck selected to feature the captivating, brutally modernist works of South African sculptor Edoardo Villa throughout the estate grounds.

The steenberg hotel’s wine tasting lounge.

The steenberg hotel.

KER & DOWNEY 49

At La Residence the skillful mix of natural light and mood lighting lends an air of epic romance as it

bounces off ornate mirrors and silk cushions.

On the road to Franschhoek, we enjoy a custom wine tasting at prestigious Anthonij Rupert Wine Estate. In this genteel country flanked by rolling green vineyards and misty mountains, the first sights that make an impression on me are two of Lewis’ towering bronze cheetahs at the entrance—a representation that is sinewy, fierce and raw. I take note that South Africans live with the paradoxical goals of taming the land through viniculture and farming and keeping it wild for the animals. Both are an intrinsic part of everyday life. At 300-year-old grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate, the cavernous, contemporary art gallery and shop strike a personal chord with exclusive collections of South African ceramics, glass and furnishings.

In 1688, French Huguenots fleeing persecution settled in the valley. Granted plots of land by the Dutch government, many of the farms they founded evolved into the Franschhoek’s influential wineries. Considered South Africa’s food and wine capital today, world-class restaurants line the main street. Among them The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français is considered to be one of the top fine dining experiences in the world. The handiwork of genius Chef Margot Janse, our meal there is one to cross off the bucket list. As an added treat we visit is art, Le Quartier’s small, well-edited onsite fine art gallery and shop, thoughtfully curated by the much-lauded Ilse Schermers.

While the whitewashed, gabled 17th century Cape Dutch Architecture dominates the quiet blocks and farmhouses of Franschhoek, La residence hotel is a jewel on a private wine estate that evokes Provence with interiors that playfully nod to the gilded luxury of Versailles. As we step into the glamour, we are greeted like old friends back from a too long journey—with sparkling rosé and warm smiles. End to end, the main hall is an unfolding open floor plan with velvet-upholstered couches and antique chairs arranged into cozy vignettes in front of fireplaces or window views. It’s a moveable feast of lovingly restored furnishings and the singular vision of proprietress Liz Biden, doyenne of hospitality and luxury design. The skillful mix of natural light and mood lighting lends an air of epic romance as it bounces off ornate mirrors and silk cushions. A grand Indian chandelier, which adorns the palatial ceiling, enhances every detail of color saturated textiles and exquisite artworks throughout. If a living space could be a celebrity, La Residence would be a rock star. Even with the over-the-top décor, guests can really sink into the comfort of these rooms, eat off of fine vintage porcelain, live with rare artworks and carry a glass of their private label estate-made Syrah wherever they go. Only the guests are precious. Whether it’s a six-course wine pairings dinner, an in-room massage or cooking class for two, the attentive staff makes it all happen. As Mies van der Rohe put it,

Photos from left to right: Grande Provence heritage Wine Estate’s The Gallery; is art Gallery; La Residence painting, La Residence villa; is art Gallery.

KER & DOWNEY 51

“God is in the details,” and here I am a believer.The journey from Franschhoek to Hermanus is a spectacular, 90-minute drive that includes scenic R44 along Walker Bay. Surrounded by pristine shores and dramatic cliffs, visitors flock to the region for the wildlife. It’s the best viewing spot for the southern right whale during the winter and spring. Many take the early morning, half hour jaunt to Gansbaai to dive with great white sharks. Dolphins, seals and penguins make up the remainder of Hermanus’ “Marine Big 5”.

When we check into Birkenhead House, we are immediately summoned to the window facing the bay to watch the welcoming committee, a large pod of dolphins playing in the waves. Perched on a cliff above a private beach, the 11-suite hideaway is everything a beach pad should be—easy, white slipcovered couches, a warm fireplace, candlelit evenings and a self-serve cocktail bar with board games stocked beneath it. As part of the Biden collection, interior touches such as ostrich feather lampshades and a seashell-covered wardrobe add panache.

The next morning a torrential downpour thwarts a shark diving expedition, much to my husband’s disappointment. What the sharks can’t deliver, the Hermanus Wine Route can. Proximity to the

Atlantic Ocean makes this the coolest climate in South Africa. For good reason, the fynbos-sheathed valley along R320 is called Hemel-en-Aarde, “Heaven on Earth” in Afrikaans. If Franschhoek is akin to our esteemed Napa Valley, the area wineries are a bit less formal and more akin to the boutique vineyards of Sonoma. Dedicated to biodiversity, Bouchard Finlayson sustainably crafts gold medal Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blanc. Up the road, influential vintner Anthony Hamilton Russell has created a sensation with Southern Right Wine Farm’s Pinotage and Sauvignon Blanc vintages, reputed to have captured the aromatics of the fynbos, the plant species native to the Cape Floral Kingdom.

a winding, scenic path with epic views of Walker bay.

birkenhead house.

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S I N G I T A S W E N I , K r U G E r N A T I O N A l P A r K tucked into the almost 40,000 acre Singita Reserve, the intimacy of six-suite Singita Sweni is a welcome experience after a week in civilization. The riverbank of the slow flowing Sweni River beneath the lodge is the spa retreat of Kruger’s wild. A crocodile languidly swims by. A herd of hippos belly flops into the water, their deep, snorting bass tones reverberating as they splash. And a nearby pride of lions roar after dark. Combined with the rich saligna woods and elegant earth tones of the furnishings, this interplay of silence, sound and camouflage is a seductive cocktail, flawlessly executed. Still, there is drama

unfolding. A young bull elephant in musth has checked into the tall brush near the entrance for the night, and becomes the talk of the town. Post-game drive dinner conversation revolves around him. All the while, the wine flows. Throughout this adventure, I have fallen in love with the bright bouquet of Chenin Blanc. The sommelier introduces us to A.A. Badenhorst "Secateurs" Chenin Blanc Swartland, and then moves on to headier options from the premium cellars.

As one of South Africa’s leading buyers of wine, Singita takes the endeavor very seriously. On average, a wine list at a property features more than 180 wines, including limited edition and highly sought after vintages. Through the Singita Premier Wine Direct, a service that makes it easy for guests to bring South African wines home, the staff helps to develop a wine profile for each guest. They take note of

any bottles enjoyed or purchased during a stay and offer future selections based on preferences and interests.

Singita Sweni and its highly stylized, award-winning sister property Singita Lebombo Lodge share a ‘village’ that houses a wine shop, gym, spa and cappuccino lounge. The most impressive tenant is the Boutique & Gallery, filled with a range of goods for sale including rare artifacts, wood carvings, vintage jewelry, custom Ndebele dolls, Nguni hide rugs, captivating black and white photography by area lens men and crafts that support local artisans. I want everything I see. Singita commissions a group of Zulu weavers to create intricate, colorful telephone wire tableware used in the daily table settings. Art in its own right, these handmade pieces are a beautiful way to bring the whole experience home.

The wine cellar at singita Lembombo Lodge.

singita sweni’s decor is the epitome of safari chicsingita sweni, the epitome of safari chic.

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J O H A N N E S B U r Gas our last stop, the all-suite Saxon Boutique Hotel, Villas and Spa in Johannesburg brings the wine and art experience full circle by adding historical context. In these luxe accommodations, South Africa’s new story is told through collections of primitive woodworks, modern stoneware ceramic sculptures and the contemporary pieces that hang on the villa walls. A series of graphite sketches by Dean Simon documents the Douw Steyn family, who own the Saxon, and guests who have shaped the hotel’s identity. Nelson Mandela lived here and completed his book Long Walk to Freedom, in what is now the Nelson Mandela Platinum Suite, after he was released from prison in 1990. The many portraits of him over the years depict his journey since. During my visit, Mandela lies in the hospital, a reminder of the frailty of the hope that holds a nation together. In the days of Apartheid, travel to South Africa was unfashionable. The Renaissance of wine, art and conservation invites the world to see what South Africa can be. I get the sense the flower is just beginning to blossom.

Grand lobby at saxon boutique hotel.

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R i s i N g s ta R s

fnb joburg art fairSince 2008, the Joburg Art Fair has pioneered to bring together top collectors, curators, artists and art lovers to broaden the audience for contemporary African art. Last year 10,000 art lovers attended the event, in addition to the participation of 27 galleries from six countries. The happening provides a unique opportunity to feel the electricity of Jo’burg’s burgeoning art scene. September 27-29 | sandton convention center

three to tryOne of South Africa’s top sommeliers, the Saxon’s award winning Xolani Mancotywa recommends three bottles that, he says, “are a real expression of South African wine and a treasure to have.” All are available for export to the US through Cape Classics. www.capeclassics.com

1. DE MOrGEzON CHENIN BlANC

2. rAATS CAB FrANC

3. KANONKOP PINOTAGE

villa baskets.

The Procession by: Titiaballot

Pebbles by: Errol Westoll

Pool at saxon boutique hotel.

Voting Day 1994 by: Dirk Meerkotter

THE TOP 20 PRIVATE VIllAS

WITH A BEACH VIEW

R E T R E A T SBEACH

In search of the perfect, waterfront

hideaway for your next relaxing escape?

We’ve gathered 20 of our favorite luxury

villas from all over the world with

breathtaking views of the water and all

the amenities to calm the senses and

leave you speechless.

Great

by haley beham

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s o u t h a f r i c a

a u s t r a L i a

c O n r A d P e z u L A

c A s T L e

Located on a private stretch of Noetzie Beach in South Africa, the Pezula Castle is a well-appointed private residence for the ultimate luxury getaway. A dedicated staff, including a private butler, attends to your every need, while a private chef prepares fresh, gourmet meals with local ingredients from the vegetable garden in the castle’s kitchen. Three spacious suites, each with a private bathroom and terrace overlooking the beach, exude luxury. Enjoy the dramatic natural scape of Fynbos, a shrub land endemic to a small area of the South African Cape, and sweep-ing views of pristine Noetzie Beach below from the sundeck. Other ame-nities include two living rooms with fireplaces, a heated outdoor rim-flow pool and a private gymnasium.

Q u A L I A B e A c h h O u s e

Surrounded by the Great Barrier Reef, Qualia’s private beach house is set on 30 acres of garden landscape at the northern-most tip of Australia’s Hamilton Island. Designed to draw the outside in, an open layout with a wall of glass doors that can be completely pushed open effectively blurs the line between indoor and outdoor spaces. From the secluded pool that stretches the length of the dining room and entertaining area, enjoy panoramic views of the Coral Sea and Whitsunday Islands. The house and guest pavilion each have one bedroom with en-suite facilities, private sundecks, flat screen televi-sions and Internet access.

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N i c a r a G u aM u k u L r e s O r T – CASOnA DOn CARlOS

On a secluded four-mile stretch of white, sandy beach on the Emerald Coast of Nicaragua sits Mukul Resort, the country’s first five-star resort. Opened in February 2013, the retreat is a testament to sustain-

able building practices, utilizing local materials and completely integrating the structures to the land, including an 18-hole golf course designed entirely around the existing landscape. Mukul Resort also has a partnership with the local farmers in an effort to protect the water sources of the residents by implementing incentives for small farmers to have water catchment strate-gies in place to retain water, to leave native trees standing and to plant new trees in barren areas. For travelers seeking lavish accommodations, enjoy Casona Don Carlos—the Pellas family’s private beach house—when the family is not in residence. The estate is an impressive two-story, 20,000 square foot escape, including six bedroom suites, 80-foot palapa ceilings, a wrap-around stone terrace and a private swimming pool. With both indoor and outdoor living spaces, the home takes advantage of its stunning location and has direct access to the Manzanillo Beach. Other amenities include a library, pool table and compli-mentary WiFi. Out of the guest home, choose to relax in one of the six private treatment rooms at the Mukul Spa, enjoy a helicopter ride over the coastline or take an excursion to nearby Granada.

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o M a N s I x s e n s e s z I g h y B A y BEIT MUSAnDAM, THE PRIVATE RESERVE

Rocky mountains juxtaposed with serene beaches define the inpiring landscape of Six Senses Zighy Bay. Take in the dramatic views from the private villa Beit Musandam, nestled on a stretch of beach that looks out onto the Gulf of Oman. Traditional Omani architecture lends itself to the design of the villa, with four ensuite bedrooms, each with outdoor showers. A wine cellar, private gym, yoga studio, swimming pool and live-in butler round out the amenities of the villa. During your stay, enjoy a tasty in-villa barbecue, relax in the spa complete with Arabian hammams and explore the tranquil beaches of the Musandam Peninsula.

M o Z a M B i Q u E

A z u r A r e T r e A T

Unobstructed sea views, unspoiled white sandy beaches and total privacy character-ize the Infinity Beach Villas at Azura Reteat on Benguerra Island. Designed to reflect the traditional Mozambican style, the villas have white walls and pitched thatched jekka roofs, and were built by hand in partnership with the local community. Interior rooms open onto outdoor terraces, maximizing space and bringing in the outdoors, creating a tropical sanctuary of peace. From the daybed, watch fishing dhows sail by while sipping on a cold cocktail. Bathe under the outdoor shower be-fore dining on fresh, local produce in only the company of stars in the night sky.

c a M B o D i a s O n g s A A P r I v A T e I s L A n d r e s O r T

On a secluded deck delicately perched over the South China Sea, a sun lounger beckons guests to escape the speed of everyday life and find the tranquility that only Song Saa Private Island Resort can provide. Located in the Koh Rong Archipelago, Song Saa is Cambodia’s first and only private island resort. It is setting standards in sustainability and environmental integrity for future building projects without compromis-ing on luxury. Locally sourced materials define the architecture of the thatched roof villas, furnished with Ploh linens,

hand-crafted furniture made by the region’s artisans, over-sized baths and outdoor showers.

The crown jewel of Song Saa is the two-bedroom Royal Villa, located on the island’s most discreet location, acces-sible by boat to the villa’s private jetty. Sip cocktails from the private pool and lounge in the sun on the expansive sun deck in total privacy of the thatched villa paradise. Enjoy the sight of breathtaking turquoise waters as they merge with Cambodia’s clear blue skies.

In addition to Song Saa’s dedication to eco-tourism, its founders Rory and Melita have established Cambodia’s first Marine Protected Area, ensuring that future visitors enjoy the clear waters and vibrant coral reef for years to come.

a B u D h a B i

P A r k h y A T T A B u d h A B I h O T e L & v I L L A s ROYAl VIllA

In a city with a growing population and skyline that is constantly changing, find-ing a slice of solitude can be difficult. However, the Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel and Villas accomplished just that with its completely private Royal Villa—away from the hustle and bustle. Located on five miles of naturally protected white sand beaches on Saadiyat Island, the villa is outfitted with all the modern amenities one would expect from a five-star luxury retreat, including a spa-cious terrace with plunge pool and sun beds. Through the floor to ceiling windows in the villa or from your private terrace, see the unobstructed views of the grand Arabian Gulf.

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s o u t h a f r i c a

g r O O T B O s v I L L A

Grootbos Villa is the haven for travelers seeking refuge off the beaten path only two hours from Cape Town. Surrounded by pristine Fynbos in the Grootbos Nature Reserve, the villa is lo-cated in a prime whale-watching position. Enjoy 180-degree views that look out over the rolling waves of expansive Walker Bay. Available for exclusive use only, modern architecture draws guests in to relax in one of the six suites, while the hope of spotting a southern right whale keeps them lingering at the bay June through Novem-ber. A private guide accompanies guests on excur-sions, while a personal butler and chef attend to guests every need.

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i t a L yv I L L A T r e v I L L e

For famed opera and film director Franco Ziffirelli, the idyllic village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast sets the perfect theatrical backdrop for his former home the Villa Tre Ville, now a luxury boutique hotel. Located on the winding Via dei Limoni, one of National Geographic’s most beautiful roads in the world, the recently-renovated estate turned hotel includes four villas outfitted with the highest qual-ity Italian finishes. Still, Ziffirelli’s décor remains virtually unchanged. The whitewashed walls, hand-painted mosaic tiles and original antiques add to the hotel’s charm, which once entertained the Hol-lywood elite, including legends Laurence Olivier, Elizabeth Taylor and Liza Minnellli.

It is fitting that the historic home of the famous opera director would look out onto the dramatic scenery of the Amalfi Coast. From the villa’s spa-cious cliffside terrace, watch the sunset over the stepped gardens and limestone cliffs leading to the sea below while sipping limoncello produced in the region. Enjoy the smell of wisteria, jasmine and bougainvillea while sitting under a pergola in the garden. Each villa is a masterpiece in its own right—individually decorated and supplied abundantly in every detail, such as binoculars and a humidor in every room.

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t h a i L a N D s I x s e n s e s s O n e v A k I r I

Spread over 102 acres of ancient rainforest and pristine beaches, the 29 villas of Soneva Kiri sit on the peaceful island of Koh Kood, 250 miles from bustling Bangkok. Designed to blend into the landscape the chic villas range from one-bedroom suites in the rainforest and on the beach, to the palatial six bedroom pri-vate reserve, with a personal gym, spa treat-ment room and swimming pool complete with a water slide. Coconut palms provide shade on the expansive decks while private swim-ming pools wrap around each villa. For a truly unique dining experience, head 20 feet up in the tree canopy for traditional Thai cuisine from the bamboo-dining pod.

M o Z a M B i Q u E v A M I z I I s L A n d

Travelers with a penchant for responsible tourism, eco-friendly digs and unparalleled diving will enjoy the simple luxury of the private villas at Vamizi Island, located in the Quirimbas Archipelago which is known for rich coral reefs and spectacular diving and snorkeling sites. Locally-sourced materials such as timber, thatch and stone make up the sustainable design, while the architecture draws on the multicultural influences of Mozambique. Standard construction practices were adapted in an effort to protect the natural environment. Spend the day in the clear blue waters with the abundant marine life then watch the sunset from the deck overlooking the immaculate beach.

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s E y c h E L L E s

M a L D i V E s

n O r T h I s L A n d

Nestled between large granite outcrop-pings within an inner group of islands in the Seychelles Archipelago, the 11 villas of North Island Seychelles enjoy quiet isolation from the outside world. For ultimate privacy, the sprawling multi-tiered Villa 11 is tucked away in the Takamaka Forest with nature-packed views of land and sea in all directions. It provides the perfect vantage point to watch the sunset over the Indian Ocean. A sunken deck and private gazebo, outdoor shower built into a rock and spa deck create a personal paradise envel-oped by white beaches, blue ocean and lush green vegetation.

s O n e v A F u s h I

The 65 villas of Soneva Fushi range from one-bedroom suites to an exclusive four-bedroom Jungle Reserve, sitting among a dense jungle of shady palm trees on a large island in the Maldives. The resort offers diverse activities in-cluding swimming with bottlenose dolphins in the Baa Atoll—named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its rich marine life—and snorkel-ing with manta rays at Manta Point. The most notable vantage point, however, is the Soneva Fushi Observatory, equipped with

the most powerful telescope in the Indian Ocean. With the help of experienced astronomers, identify constellations in the night sky and gaze at 200 billion stars dancing in the distance.

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G r E E c E T s I T O u r A s c O L L e c T I O n The TC PrivaTe villa

On a cliff 1,000 feet above the Mediterranean Sea on Santorini, the legendary island of Atlantis, sits the Tsitouras Collection Private Villa. With whitewashed walls and domed ceilings characteristic of Santorini architecture, the villa is a marriage of modern luxury and old world charm. Chippendale armchairs grace the sitting rooms, Picasso ceramics occupy the bookshelves and 16th-century oil paintings hang on the walls. Watch the sun set off the Mediterranean Sea in quiet solitude on the private terrace before retiring to one of the three villa bedrooms, complete with Greek white marble bathrooms.

f r a N c E

c A P e s T e L

Originally built in the 19th century as a summer house for a Russian prince, the historic Cap Estel mansion was converted into an elegant hotel in the 1950s and has been a top vacation spot of celebrities ever since. Located on a peninsula in Côte d’ Azur, Cape Estel sits in the heart of the French Riviera, between Monaco and Nice. The estate is comprised of four independent and equally private villas with breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea from tucked away terraces. Swing through the fragrant five-acre garden to the private dock leading to the sapphire sea.

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t u r K E y

B r a Z i L

A M A n r u y A , B O d r u M P e n I n s u L A

Owing its comfortable year-round climate to its loca-tion on the northern coast of the Bodrum Peninsula, the Amanruya Resort possesses an incomparable view of the Aegean Sea and pebble-beach-lined coast. Although they are not villas in the traditional sense, 36 well-appointed pool terrace cottages are tucked among olive trees, offer quick beach access and are furnished with four-poster beds, traditional Turkish “mangal” charcoal fireplaces, under-floor heating and hand-woven rugs and throws for understated opulence. Take in the views of the crystal sea from the daybed of your private garden and cool off with a dip in your personal marble pool.

B u z I O s v I L L A

Views of the ocean below take center stage from the modern cliffside Buzios Villa, located on a hill surrounded by coconut trees and overlooking Ferradura Beach. The floor-to-ceiling windows in the spacious and sophisticated five-bedroom villa frame picture perfect views of the landscape. Enjoy all the modern conveniences of home, including a computer with In-ternet access, private home theater, swimming pool and gym. Want for nothing as a full staff and private concierge attend to your every need. In need of a little action? The villa is located close to Rua das Pedra, the main street in Buzios, providing easy access to restaurants, shop-ping and entertainment

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V i E t N a M

c h i L E

v I L L A A T r e d B r I d g e

On the banks of the Thu Bon River, just one and a half miles from the beaches of the South China Sea and Hoi An Ancient Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Villa at Red Bridge is supremely situated to take in all Hoi An has to of-fer. The three-bedroom house is built in traditional Vietnamese style, featuring antique furnishings, local art, a two-story library and a fully equipped gourmet kitchen. If you prefer, the chefs in train-ing at the Red Bridge Restaurant and Cooking School can also prepare your meals. Outside, relax in the pool or the 5,000 square foot garden as you watch the river flow by.

d O s L A g O s L O d g e

Accessible only by helicopter, boat, on horse-back or on foot, Dos Lagos Lodge is one of South America’s most remote luxury lodges. Located within 442,000 acres of the Cerro Castillo National Reserve in southern Chile’s legendary Patagonia, the country house has four bedrooms—each with wood-burning fireplaces and views of the two lakes, na-tive forests and the Andes Mountains in the background. A destination for outdoor aficionados, guests can partake in an endless list of activities. From hiking and kayaking to helicopter excursions, lakes, waterfalls, peaks and valleys are waiting to be explored. Return after a full day to a fresh meal prepared by renowned Chef Ciancarlo Massarellione, and sip on Chilean wine, perfectly paired to complement the meal.

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f i J i L A u c A L A I s L A n d r e s O r T

For nearly a century, Laucala Island functioned largely as a coconut plantation, and then as the Forbes family’s private island retreat. Today it is home to an exclusive tropical paradise, with 25 villas spread across the island among the tropical vegetation and beaches, with generously apportioned indoor and outdoor spaces that transition seamlessly from one to the other. The island is essentially self sustain-ing. As a nod to its former coconut plantation days, perhaps, the coconut features prominently in the day-to-day operations of the resort. Chefs cook with the meat and milk, the spa uses the milk during treatments and local villagers sell baskets woven from the palm fronds.

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R U S S I A

K A Z A K S T A N

T U R K E Y

C A S P I A NS E A

B L A C KS E A

KazbEGi

TbiLisi

siGNaGi

YEREvaNbaKu

R U S S I A

K A Z A K S T A N

T U R K E Y

C A S P I A NS E A

B L A C KS E A

baKu

The ITInerary:

estled between the Middle East, the Black Sea and snowy Russia, the Caucasus region holds a wealth of historical treasure, breathtaking

views and warm hospitality from its inhabitants. This tour of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan reminds us that the world still holds much that is unexpected. You just have to know where to look.

Over the course of 14 days, explore a myriad of museums, historical and religious sites, ancient caves with Stone Age inscriptions, remnants of Roman culture and urban architecture next to green and abundant vineyards.

14DaYsi N T h E

caucasusby meredith mohr

N

in a region of the world that still holds mystery for many, Georgia, armenia and azerbaijan are best discovered through a walk back in time.

KER & DOWNEY 75

DaY 1: Enjoy a welcoming dinner with traditional cuisine in an Azerbaijan restaurant, followed by a folklore show in which elegantly dressed perform-ers regale guests with traditional dance and music. Though it is known for fiercely cold winters, the city of Baku is a warm starting place for an adventure through the Caucasus region.

DaY 2: Trek into Old Town, otherwise known as “Icheri Sheher,” and get a taste of royal life while exploring the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, one of the most striking examples of medieval palace structures in Azerbaijan dating to the middle of the 15th century. See other historical landmarks and hunt for antique trinkets and carpets in town while in Baku for the day.

DaY 3: A day trip along the Absheron Peninsula brings Middle Eastern medieval times to life, as the peninsula is home to Ateshgah, the Fire Temple, in Surakhani Village. Built long ago on a natural gas field, Zoroastrian believers traveled from as far as India on pilgrimage to the site and came to describe Azerbaijan as the “land of fires.”

DaY 4: Embark on a day trip to the Gobustan Reserve, an open-air museum with around 4,000 neolithic rock drawings and inscriptions. Retrace the steps of famous Norwegian anthropologist Thor Hey-erdahl, as he often frequented this site to study the ancient evidence of Azerbaijan history.

DaY 5: Wander the city of Tbilisi, the capital and largest city in Georgia. Pass through old quarters of the city and the culture center, taking the old note of the famous sulphur springs along the Mtkvari River. Look up and see the examples of Georgian architec-ture of the houses with balconies and grape vines that line the path to Narikala, the fourth century fort with an exquisite view of the city and surrounding region.

DaY 6: Make a modern-day pilgrimage to Mtskheta, the ancient capital of eastern Georgia, where the country’s conversion to Christianity oc-curred in 337 AD.

DaY 7: Mingle with sheep under an impossibly blue sky on a hike up to Gergeti Trinity Church, or Tsminda Sameba to the locals, in Kazbegi—the only town in the Khevi province just a few miles from the Russian border. From the church windows, see the paradise view of Mount Kazbek, 5,033 meters high and dotted with glaciers and permafrost.

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DaY 8: Explore the cave city of Uplistsikhe, with houses, temples, streets and Roman theatres all carved out of sandstone in the second century BC.

DaY 9: Learn to bake Georgian bread and sweets with a local family in the Kakheti region, known for its sprawling vineyards and local wines.

DaY 10: Visit the Bodbe Monastery in the Kakheti region, home of the tomb of St. Nino, a symbol of Geor-gian Christianity. Hear the clanging bells and look into the waters of the St. Nino Spring, which legend says has healing powers for faithful Christians.

DaY 11: Reflect on science and medicine on a tour of the monastery of Sanahin, an important center of knowledge in the area. Crossing over into Armenia, explore both the scientific and the religious heritage of the country.

DaY 12: Visit the Khor Virap monastery, which boasts the best view of Mount Ararat, where it is be-lieved Noah’s Ark rested after the famous flood.

DaY 13: Make a wish by candlelight in the Yerevan subterranean cave, more than 68 feet deep. Considered the “second ark to save humanity,” this historic under-ground shrine took more than two decades to complete.

DaY 14: On the journey home contemplate the rich history of the Caucasus region, with the memory of Georgian wine and hearth-baked bread still fresh.

SHOTThE

ONE PicTuRE, ONE siNGLE MOMENT, ONE

MEMORY WORTh a ThOusaND WORDs

caPTuRED This issuE bY WRiTER-

PhOTOGRaPhER DaviD sWaNsON

rom Barcelona to Botswana, local markets are my catnip. The pulse and pull of a place are revealed through a market’s colors, aromas

and noise—and the foundations of the local cuisine emerge. This market in the Vietnamese hill town of Dalat seduced me to wander through row after row of vivid produce, while an abandoned upper level provided an unusual perspective on the action. I caught this seller mid-yawn, and his embarrassed reaction was an unexpected and privileged moment we shared.

David Swanson is a San Diego-based freelance writer and photographer, specializing in travel subjects. His explorations have taken him to more than 90 countries around the globe, and his wish list of future destinations remains ever expanding.

F

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zimbabwe’sB E S T B E T S

Victoria Fallse L e P h a n T C a M PV i c TO r i A FA l l s N AT i O N A l PA r K

situated on a private concession within The victoria Falls National Park, The Elephant camp is a luxury and intimate lodge under canvas with breathtaking views of the victoria Falls spray, and the spectacular gorges which separate zimbabwe and zambia.

V i C T O r i a Fa L L s h O T e LV i c TO r i A FA l l s N AT i O N A l PA r K

For more than a century, The victoria Falls hotel has been the address of choice for royal families, statesmen, celebrities and discerning travelers as it occupies a fine location from which to explore the magical wonders of untamed africa.

V i C T O r i a Fa L L s s a Fa r i C L U BV i c TO r i A FA l l s

The new and exclusive victoria Falls safari club affords a superior five-star experience with peaceful exclusivity in a supreme wilderness location, surrounded by beautiful panoramic views.

V i C T O r i a Fa L L s r i V e r L O d G eZ A m b e Z i N AT i O N A l PA r K

set on the banks of the mighty zambezi River, the luxury tented victoria Falls River Lodge combines exceptional wildlife viewing, fine dining, and luxurious accommodations with one of the seven Natural Wonders of the World.

Victoria Falls

Safari

C h a n G a s a Fa r i C a M Pm AT U s A d O N A N AT i O N A l PA r K

Located on the shores of Lake Kariba in zimbabwe, changa safari camp provides the unique experience of combined game and fishing safaris on a private

concession in the famed Matusadona National Park.

B U M i h i L L s l A K e K A r i b A

bumi hills is Lake Kariba’s and zimbabwe’s most beloved and iconic luxury safari lodge and spa with an awe-inspiring vista overlooking the massive lake that all who experience it agree is difficult to surpass anywhere on the planet.

r U C KO M e C h i C a M Pm A N A P O O l s N AT i O N A l PA r K

shaded by trees on the banks of the zambezi River lies Ruckomechi camp, the ideal place for a breathtaking safari experience with a prime location near the Mana Pools National Park and views of the Great Rift valley across the river.

L i T T L e M a K a L O L OH wA N g e N AT i O N A l PA r K

Nestled in the fertile hwange National Park, Little Makalolo camp is a the ideal getaway for lovers of nature and those seeking an authentic safari experience, exceeding all expectations for up-close game

encounters in an intimate atmosphere.

T h e h i d eH wA N g e N AT i O N A l PA r K

The hide is situated within hwange National Park, known for abundant and diverse wildlife. The hide has justly earned its reputation as a great wildlife experience wrapped in warm welcoming hospitality and is an award-winning lodge that one can rely on to live up to its high standards.

c O N Ta c T YO u R T R av E L P R O F E s s i O N a L O R v i s i T u s O N T h E W E b aT

W W W. K E R D O W N E Y. c O M

a F R i c a | a s i a | E u R O P E | s O u T h a M E R i c a | c E N T R a L a M E R i c a | T h E M i D D L E E a s T | s O u T h Pa c i F i c | b E YO N D

Dive in

At Ker & Downey we help you behold the beauty of the world the way you always imagined. These experiential moments –

tasting mint tea in the middle of the Sahara Desert, tiger sightings in India, or finding a little peace and calm in the Pacific –

whatever it may be for you, you’ll know it when you experience it. And it comes standard on every Ker & Downey journey.