Black and White Madeleines

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Magdalenas blancas y negras, recetas

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  • llack-and-Whitelarbled Madeleines

    "HE FRENCH ARE MASTERS AT knowing how to take a good idea andspin it into another good ideaand another. These days they're play-

    ground with madeleines. While the shell-shaped pastries are classicallyored with lemon (page 212) or vanilla, today a madeleine's batter mightude green tea or Earl Grey, raspberry or rose, herbs or exotic spices. I[ofthese marbled tea cakes as straddlers, the placeholders between tra-,iand treats that go out on a limb. This batter is flavored with vanilla and

    X-so-classic lime zest, then half of it is mixed with melted milk chocolate: with the lime) and cocoa powder (great for color). With the chocolate

    ding them a bit, the madeleines don't develop the hefty bump thattir plainer relatives do. Nonetheless, their look is enchanting, their flavorssand, because of the marbling, each bite is different, a playfulness that's'ays welcome in a dessert.These defy the golden rule of the madeleine: They don't have to be eatenostas soon as they're made; they even taste great a day later.

    2/3 cup (90 grams) all-purposeflour

    1 teaspoon baking powderPinch of fine sea salt

    '/2 cup (100 grams) sugarFinely grated zest of i lime

    2 large eggs, at roomtemperature

    3/t stick (6 tablespoons;3 ounces; 85 grams)unsalted butter, melted and

    cooled

    n/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extracti tablespoon unsweetened

    cocoa powderi ounce (28 grams) best-quality

    milk chocolate, melted and

    still fluid

    Utter the molds of a i2-shell madeleine pan, dust with flour and tap out the> (or use baker's spray, a mix of vegetable oil and flour). Do this even

    ifyour pan is silicone or nonstick. Put the pan in the refrigerator while you; the batter.

    Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt together in a small bowl.Put the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer, or put it in a large bowl and

    irk with a hand mixer. Add the lime zest and use your fingertips to rub theland sugar together until the sugar is moist and fragrant. If using a stand

    ixer, fit it with the paddle and attach the bowl. Add the eggs to the bowl andMediately begin mixing at medium speed. (If you let the eggs and sugar

    :,the sugar will "cook" the yolks and they'll develop a film.) Mix for 2 to

    Makes 12 mac/e/eines

    SERVING: Madeleines canbe served moments out ofthe oven, just warm or atroom temperature. Whilethey're perfect the daythey're made, these are alsogood, if a bit denser, thenext day.

    STORING: The madeleinebatter can be spooned intothe molds, marbled andkept refrigerated for up to1 day; cover the batter whenit firms. If you're keepingthe madeleines overnight,pack them in a coveredcontainer. The tea cakescan also be wrappedairtight, frozen for up to2 months and brought toroom temperature beforeserving. Madeleines thathave been frozen benefitfrom a quick warm-up in a35O-degree-F oven.

    BABY C A K E S AND PETITE PASTRIES 215

  • 3 minutes, or until the mixture is pale and thick. Add the dry ingredients and,using a flexible spatula, stir and fold gently until the flour disappears into thebatter. Add the butter in 3 additions, folding each one into the batter with alight touch. Pour half of the batter into another bowl.

    Stir the vanilla extract into one half of the batter. Place a small sieve over :the other bowl, drop in the cocoa and shake it over the batter. Then pour themelted chocolate into the bowl and gently stir and fold everything togetherwith a flexible spatula until well blended.

    Divide the vanilla batter evenly among the molds. Top with the chocolatebatter. If you'd like, you can leave the madeleines like this and they'll bakewith a dark bull's-eyethe chocolate batter doesn't budge much. For mar-bled madeleines, my preference, take a table knife and swirl it through thebatters. Don't overdo it2 or 3 squiggles are enough to get a little marbling.

    Refrigerate the filled pan for at least i hour. (The batter can be refiigerattifor as long as overnight. Once the batter is firm, cover lightly with plastic film]

    WHEN YOU'RE READY TO BAKE: Center a rack in the oven, put a largeheavy baking sheet on the rack and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

    Place the madeleine pan on the hot baking sheet and bake for 13 to15 minutes, or until the madeleines are puffed, golden brown and springyto the touch. If you poke the shells at the edges, they'll pull away from thepan. Remove the pan from the oven and rap the edge of the pan against thecounterthe madeleines should come tumbling out. Gently pry any recalci-trant cakes from their shells with a table knife or your fingers. If not servingimmediately, transfer to a cooling rack.

    216 B A K I N G CHEZ MOI