A Complete Step-By-Step Guide on How To

Build A Bob Beck

Blood Electrifier and Magnetic Pulser

Welcome to my step-by-step guide on how to create your own Bob Beck Blood Electrifier and Magnetic Pulser. Lets get started.

We'll be focusing on how to properly build the Bob Beck Blood Electrifier initially as in terms of components and steps it is a little more involved than the Magnetic Pulser which require less components

and is fairly simple to create.

Firstly, we'll go over the components that go into building the Bob beck Blood Electrifier, where to find them and their general purpose for clarification on their function.

The Bob Beck Blood Electrifier Components

As mentioned beforehand I'll go over the parts, their catalog numbers and the websites they correspond to:Component Amount Needed Catalog No. Website Total Price9v battery 3 CAT# HD-9V allelectronics.com 3 @ $2.55

9v battery leads 3 CAT# BST-3 allelectronics.com 4 @ $1.00LM358 Chip 2 CAT# LM358 allelectronics.com 2 @ $.80100k Linear Potentiometer

1 CAT# NLP-100K allelectronics.com 2 @ $1.00

0.1uf capacitor 1 CAT# RM-104 allelectronics.com 10 @ $.7022uf 100v capacitor 1 CAT# NC-22 allelectronics.com 1 @ $.85

820 resistor* 4 CAT# 291-820 allelectronics.com 10 @ $.50100k resistor* 2 CAT# 291-100K allelectronics.com 10 @ $.50150k resistor* 1 CAT# 291-150K allelectronics.com 10 @ $.50

2.4meg resistor* 1 CAT# 291-2.4M allelectronics.com 10 @ $.503.5mm audio jack 1 CAT# MJW-21 allelectronics.com 3 @ $1.00SPDT mini switch 1 CAT# MTS-5 allelectronics.com 1 @ $1.009.1v zener diode 4 CAT# 1N4739 allelectronics.com 4 @ $1.00Mini Red LED 1 CAT# MLED-1 allelectronics.com 10 @ $1.00

Solderless Breadboard

1 CAT# PB-400 allelectronics.com 1 @ $4.00

Jumper Wires for Breadboard^

1 CAT# JW-140 allelectronics.com 1 @ $6.25

ABS Project Box5" x 2.5" x 1.75"

1 CAT# MB-033 allelectronics.com 1 @ $3.15

3.5mm electrodes (can be self made)

1 Wire.3.5 lhasaoms.com 1 @ $3.75

* all resistors are 1/4 watts rating^ jumper wires are necessary to complete the breadboard style we will be focusing on creating

So these are the components for your basic setup for a Bob Beck Blood Electrifier utilizing the ease of use of a breadboard, just log onto the corresponding websites, which is www.allelectronics.com for the most part and just

plug in the catalog numbers for each component.

In regards to the 3.5mm TENS electrodes from the www.lhasaoms.com website, I would recommend purchasing them as using alligator clips from a headphone wire is not so secure and also the surface area of the 'make-shift probes gets wider than the recommended maximum of 1/8" width that the TENS electrodes surpass for optimum

efficiency while in use, in any case, I will later describe the steps to create makeshift electrodes initially if you'd like.

On a side note: These tools are not absolutely necessary but a recommended:

• Multimeter (volt measurement to assure proper function) CAT# DVM-810found at allelectronics.com for $7.25

• A small bit drill or tool that can be used to create small holes in the ABS project box for your switch, light and jack.

• Crazy glue to keep your audio jack and if desired LED in place in the ABS project box.

• A pair of scissors/wire stripper and a needle nose plier to twist wire.

Ok, so we've finally got the basics together, find a clear workspace to lay out the components, no need to remove them from their packages until you need to as it can get confusing if you begin to do things in an unorganized fashion, simply take what you need from the packets when needed, it's easier for clean up

anyway.

The Bob Beck Blood Electrifier Schematic and its Steps to

Construction

Below is the schematic we will be using to build the Bob beck Blood Electrifier, at this point if you haven't already, I would recommend printing out the schematic and the steps outlined below it, to do so, simply select print but instead of selecting 'All' for the print range, select the bubble left of 'Pages' and

type into the value windows from 3 to .......

I've modified the schematic below for ease of recognition of each of the linked ground terminals and linked positive terminals, meaning they all go to the same place.

As well as the positive (+) and negative (-) battery poles of the 9v battery.

As a final suggestion, wearing latex gloves makes it a little easier to grip things, but they be more useful during the construction of the Magnetic Pulser which I will outline further below.

Step 1. Getting to Know Your Breadboard

So you've got the components ready, you've printed your schematic and now your just about ready to get started, if you already know how a breadboard function you can of course skip to the next step, but here is

a quick description of how it works and why it's so useful.

A Solder-less Breadboard

Above is an image of a basic breadboard, identical to the one you would have if you ordered it from allelectronics. In any case, the (+) line brings connection to the entire vertical line adjacent to the red line,

the (-) line brings connection to the entire vertical line adjacent to the blue line. Simple enough.

As for the columns labeled 'a' through 'i', each row on either side of the 'gutter' (the division line in the center between columns e and f) are connected. To simplify, row 30 columns 'a' - 'e' are connected to each other, and row 30 columns 'f'-'i' are also connected to each other but because they are on either side of the

divider, they do NOT share a connection (unless you make them).

Step 2. Setting Up Your Breadboard for Action

If you have the jumper wires your life will be much easier from this point onward. Take two jumper wires of equal length that will reach over the breadboard and link the two (+) positive

and (-) negative columns on either side of the bread board to each other, this way you will be able to utilize positive and ground without having to extend wires to one side when needed for your components.

Step 3. Place Your Chips

Take the two LM358 Chips, but before placing them take note of the little mark on the surface of it. The pin to the left of the mark always denotes pin 1, you then number downwards and around back up to

pin 8. It looks something like this.

The schematic calls for two LM358 Chips, we will take both of the chips and place them directly above the 'gutter' (center divider) so that the pins are socketed into the holes directly on either side of the gutter. For technical reasons we will place the top chip facing upward (mark) and the second chip below it will

be facing the opposite direction (downward facing mark) as illustrated.

Step 4. Place Your First Two Resistors

If you would look to the far left of the schematic you will see it calls for two 100k Ohm resistors between the positive terminal and the negative terminal, go ahead and pick up two of them clip the wires to a nominal length (not too short) and place them as depicted, the direction of placement is irrelevant for

these resistors that we will be working with, just try to keep it consistent.

Note: If you see colorful lines they are just representing different jumper wires that have nothing to do with the other wires, some wires will start overlapping so pay attention to their placement, also they may

not correspond to the proper sizes that you will have to find in the jumper wire kit.

z

Step 5. Complete Your Connections

If you look to the schematic you will see that there are three connections to what you just created coming from in between the two 100k resistors just placed. One goes to the LM358 Chip at Pin 3, the other goes

to Pin 5 of the second LM358 Chip, and finally the last goes to a 150k Ohm resistor, the order is important. Place your components as shown, the first wire from the farthest left resistor goes up to the

150k resistor, the second to the 5th pin of the lower (second) chip and the third to the 3rd pin of the upper (first) chip.

Step 6. Take the Capacitor to Ground

Just to the left on the schematic of the upper (first) LM358 chip you will see a connection splitting, one way goes to a 0.1 uf capacitor then to ground, it'll look like this. Go ahead and place them in.

Step 7. The 2.4 Meg Ohm Resistor and Concurrent Splits Thereafter

The second arm of the split from Pin 2 of the first LM358 chip goes to a 2.4 Meg Ohm resistor goes out to Pin 6 of the second (lower) LM358 Chip, then to Pin 1 of the first (upper) Chip and then to the other side

of the 150k ohm resistor you have already placed in. Here's the result.

Step 8. Finish off the Connections of the First Chip

Now is time to finish off the connections from the first chip, meaning, connecting Pin 4 to ground(negative terminals) and Pin 8 to the positive terminal.

Step 9. Pin 7 of the Second Chip - Diodes to Capacitor

If you look to the bottom center of the schematic you will see that Pin 7 of the second chip goes off to the four 9.1v Zener Diodes and also splits beforehand to the 100k potentiometer, I'll illustrate the diode to

capacitor setup first.

At this point you have great deal of the schematic complete, we will now temporarily focus on the adjustments you need to do in regards to the ABS project box that we'll be putting this whole setup into, this'll make it easier to make your connections further down the line to the proper components without

having to take it apart again and re-adjust the length of the jumper wires to reach them.

You'll have to make four holes in the ABS project box, as mentioned before you can use a small bit drill (no larger in diameter than 1/4") or some type of hand tool to get the same result.

The four holes will correspond to the 100k potentiometer, the 3.5mm jack (crazy glue recommended for the jack where you'll be plugging in the 3.5mm electrodes, be careful not to get any glue inside the hole of

the jack), the mini toggle switch, and finally our lovely red LED (light) (crazy glue also useful).

Note: When creating the holes through the plastic be sure to not overdo it and make it to big, you may have to check each whole with its corresponding piece to make sure its a snug fit through it. Also, try to

keep the holes at one general end of the box, as depicted below, it'll make it easier to complete connections from the breadboard once it's in the box.

So from here on out the following steps are involved with the above components being in place in the ABS project box.

Step 10. The 100k Potentiometer and 820 Ohm Resistor

Next we will construct the split from Pin 7 of the second (lower) chip to the 100k linear pot.if you notice the 100k potentiometer has three contacts, we will only be using two of them the middle contact and the contact on the right of it (with the pot facing up of course). One jumper should be long enough to reach from Pin 7 of the lower chip to the middle contact of the potentiometer, then a second

jumper must be long enough to get back onto the breadboard from the potentiometer to meet with a 820 Ohm resistor and then it will hook up off the board onto one of the terminals of the 3.5mm audio jack that you should have installed beforehand, but we'll get to the jack connections later when everything is ready

to go that way.

Note: for the contacts to the potentiometer, switch and 3.5mm audio jacks, you will need to twist the ends of the wires around securely with a needle nose plier or something capable of getting the same effect.

(In the above image the 100k potentiometer is shown on the breadboard itself for simplicity, in actuality it should be already firmly placed into the top-side of your ABS project box!)

Step 11. Including the LED (Not Critical)

This step can be bypassed if you choose not to include a LED but I always find it nice to have one. It's a fairly simple process, just align (3) 820 Ohm resistors before the LED before hitting ground, the longer wire coming out of the LED is the (+) side and the shorter is the (-) side, the arrangement is critical here.

Step 12. Setting Up the Battery Array

Bring out the three 9 volt batteries and three 9 volt battery leads (snap-on wires). Snap each lead pair onto a battery. With your wire stripper, or a good knife, strip off a little bit more plastic from the wire coating and then link each battery to each other in series with your needle nose plier by tightly twisting each end

to the other, if you have a soldering iron, it could be handy now you can also use some electric tape to help hold it together if necessary.

(ground)------(-) 9v (+) to (-) 9v (+) to (-) 9v (+)------(+27volts)

After arranging the batteries, you will need to attach the positive (+27 volt) end to one of the terminals at the end of the mini-toggle switch that should be in place on the ABS project box.

Once you've completed that, take a new jumper wire and make sure it's long enough to extend from the middle terminal on the mini-toggle switch to the breadboard and attach it to the switches middle terminal.

Leave the other end meant for the breadboard hanging for now.

Step 13. Making the Final Attachments to the 3.5mm Audio Jack.

Before you go ahead and connect to the 3.5mm jack let's take a quick look at the terminals and their correspondence to our schematic. If you haven't noticed already there are three terminals reaching out of

the jack, here's what you need to know..

The final necessary attachments from the breadboard to the audio jack are:

Bring a new jumper wire in from the 'open' end of the first 820 Ohm resistor that you placed along with the 100k potentiometer to terminal 3 of the 3.5mm audio jack.

Bring a new jumper wire from the right side of the sole 150k resistor placed just above the first (upper)

chip and hook it up to terminal 1 of the 3.5mm audio jack.

Then finally, bring a third jumper wire from the end of the 22uf capacitor to the final available terminal on the audio jack, terminal 2.

Congratulations, your setup is now complete!

The Final Touch-Ups

If you haven't had to do so already, carefully place the breadboard within the ABS project box, the box should be turned upside down and the bread board should be facing up in that regard. Take your battery

array and attach the only remaining negative lead into a convenient hole in one of the (-) negative terminals on either side of the bread board, finally, take the wire coming from the center of the toggle

switch that you attached a few steps ago and place it into a hole of the positive terminal.

At this point you should see the LED go on if you decided to include it, if it doesn't make sure it switches on when you move the switch to the on position. If you decided to skip over the LED move on to the next

statement.

Take your electrodes and plug them into the 3.5mm jack, if you didn't order the already made ones, you can easily create on by taking a nominal length headphone wire, clip the headphones off (of course if you must you can go out and buy an audio wire from an electronics store and use that). Use your wire stripper

and get rid of the coating over the three wires inside of the cable. You will see one red, one white, and then an uncoated silver wire. Strip the red and white, join the silver and white together, keep the red alone,

grab two alligator clips (electronics store or from allelectronics.com) and simple attach the wires to the clips, you may need to secure the connections to alligator clips with tape or by other means. When you get

that done, simply plug it into the jack.

Now take your multimeter, (if you managed to acquire one, which is really handy to find out if your work was successful) and set it onto the 200v dial mark. Turn your 100k potentiometer entirely to one direction, take the probes of the multimeter, and touch one to each electrode coming out of the box. Turn your box

on, you should get a voltage reading between the two electrodes, find out which setting of the potentiometer dial is the lowest and highest, you can go ahead and mark each extreme for your purpose of

strength adjustment when needed.

Note: Make sure that the wires going and coming from the LED, Switch, Battery Array and Potentiometer have enough slack to not become pulled off when carrying around your Electrifier in case of sudden

movements or drops.

Once you have everything in your box you can take some tape and secure the battery array that should now be on top of the breadboard to the 'roof' and walls of the project box.

Go ahead and put the lid on it, screw it closed (or tape it for easier access to change the batteries in the future). That's it!

The Bob Beck Magnetic Pulser Components

We'll go about in a similar fashion as the above instructions, first we will list the components, where you can get them, etc., then we will move onto the schematic and steps.

This project deemed to be a hectic one as the pieces are all over the place, I did my best to keep it as simple as possible, but unfortunately the parts are not entirely electronic components as you will see. If

you manage to find them in a more successful way personally it could be easier. But once you've got them, you've got the hardest part over with.

Component Amount Needed Catalog No. Website Total Price120v Lighted

Switch1 CAT# LRS-133 allelectronics.com 1 @ $1.00

10A Momentary Pushbutton Switch

1 CAT# PB-147 allelectronics.com 1 @ $3.35

Rectifier Diode 1N5402

2 CAT# 1N5402 allelectronics.com 3 @ $.70

80UF 150V Capacitor

2 75-TVA1418 mouser.com 2 @ $6.44

110v Power Cord 1 CAT# LCAC-60 allelectronics.com 1 @ $3.50

Light Bulb Socket with cables

2 Item #: 34550 lowes.com or local hardware store

2 @ $4.20

Small 60 Watt Light Bulb

2 N/A ebay.com or local hardware store

2 @ ~$4.00

2.5mH Magnetic Coil

1 Sidewinder 2.5mH 16AWG

madisound.com 1 @ $14.30

Photoflash Capacitors

5 Fuji Disposable Cameras

ebay.com or amazon.com

5 @ ~15.00

18 Gauge Hook-Up Wire

1 CAT# 18BK-100 allelectronics.com 1 @ $9.95

Perforated Board (one side must be

longer than 5")

1 276-1394 radioshack.com or store

1 @ $3.49

Winged Twisting Wire Connectors

Many CAT# 0200 allelectronics.com or hardware store

Varies

ABS Project Box7" x 5" x 3"

1 270-1807 radioshack.com or store

1 @ $5.99

In addition to the above parts, electric tape& a soldering iron will be necessary, if you don't have one already the # for a cheap but good one on allelectronics.com is CAT# IR-30 for $4.50. You may also

appreciate the use of a compass and/or a 1/2" diameter washer for testing purposes when you are done.

Finally since we will be working with a high voltage and photoflash capacitors, I highly recommend the use of rubber or latex gloves during this entire project, and if you happen to make a few too many holes

definitely change them for new ones, safety first!

The Bob Beck Magnetic Pulser Schematic and its Steps to

Construction

Below is the schematic to the Bob Beck Magnetic Pulser, printing is recommended, bring your parts out and lay them out on a clear work area and get ready to create your pulser.

Step 1. Make Your Holes

You will need to make a total of 6 holes of varying size in the project box that you will be building this pulser into. here are what the holes should correspond to.

One hole for each light bulb socket (on the top of the box), preferably near each other, but make sure they are spaced far enough so that when you screw in the bulbs they do not touch each other at all.

For the two switches, the momentary button should be placed on the top surface of the box, and the lighted switch on one of the sides of the box, try to leave space in the center of the project box for your

perfboard construction that you will be doing.

Finally, two more holes on either end of the shorter sides of the box, one for the AC power cord that you will have to secure on both sides of the hole with electric tape well so that it does not slip in or out any

further than it has too. Make sure you have enough cable to reach the light sockets and the lighted switch.

The second the hole needs to be on the opposite side of where you made the hole for the AC power cord for the coil that you will construct in a few steps.

It should look like this.

Step 2. Make Your Initial Connections

If you look to the schematic, we will be starting from the AC power cord and move along step by step towards the coil. Firstly, be sure that you do not plug in the AC power cord until the very end, also, only plug it in to a protected power outlet with a surge protector also known as GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit

Interrupter) it'll keep you safe.

There are three wires coming out of the AC Adapter, if you got one with an ending you must clip it off before even being able to get it into the box, so do so if you still haven't. One is black (-) negative, white

(+) positive and green for ground.

If you look at the lighted switch you will see it has three terminals, one of the terminals has a light-bulb symbol on it, you can now securely solder the ground wire from the AC power cord to this terminal, be

sure its the one with the light bulb symbol it is on either side of the middle terminal.

Next, take the white cable from the AC power cord, and tie it (end cap tighteners for cables) with both of the white cables of each light bulb socket. Leave the black cables coming from each socket hanging for

now.

Next solder the black cable from the AC power cord onto the opposite terminal (opposite of ground) on the lighted switch.

Step 3. Create Your Coil

This step is fairly simple, we will create your magnetic coil (the treatment part of this apparatus).Simply take the Sidewinder coil you ordered, you will see two open ended wires. From the hook-up wires

you have, clip two separate 3' to 4' (your choice how long you'd like it to be) cables. Then take each ending and solder them to the respective endings of the sidewinder coil, after you have done so, wrap the entire cable from the coil to about the last 6 inches with electric tape, this part needs to be well insulated

and secured while it is being used. You can get an idea of how this looks on the illustration above.

Step 4. Coil to Push Button Switch

There are two terminals attached to the underside of the push button switch, pull both ends of the coils cable that you just made into the box, but attach only one to the terminal closest to that side, make sure that when you solder it on that you wrap it with electrical tape, the two wires from each terminal cannot

touch unless you want them to via the push button switch.

Step 5. Creating the First Perfboard Setup

For this step we will be connecting together on a single perfboard the two 80uf capacitors (not photoflash), and the two diodes (1N5402).

Note: Make sure you cut a size that will fit snugly into the pre-made grooves in the box so that it will stay in place while in use, if you must you can use tape or glue when you are completely finished and have a

functioning machine.

Below is an image representing roughly what the first perfboard should look like, it's connections and where you need to look to hook them up with wire, soldering, and or twist caps further down the line.

Step 6. Creating the Capacitor Array

The next perfboard is going to be holding together our array of photoflash capacitors, if you managed to get your hands on the disposable cameras (with gloves) take them apart, remove the AA battery, remove

the camera halves from each other, and you will see a black cylindrical component that is bent over,

straighten it out, and use a screwdriver to each end of it after you clip it to drain it of any remaining power (make sure to clip the minimum off so you have enough wire to work with when soldering later).

Do this 5 times and you will have to line up each negative pole of the capacitors on the perfboard in series, it should look like this.

Step 7. Completing the Setup and Testing

After you have successfully made all your connections, make sure that the lighted switch is in the off position. Close your box with the lid and tape it temporarily shut. Connect your AC power cord, with

gloves worn, to your GFCI outlet. Turn the switch on and the lights should momentarily turn on then dim off. when you press the momentary push button, do not hold it down for longer than a second or so, this is meant to be a short duration circuit. Anyhow, you should be able to hold a compass to the coil and when

you press the push button it will attract one side or the other (North or South) of the compass, the side that attracts the 'North Pole' pointer of the compass is the North Pole of you coil, you may amrk it to make a note of it, as the north side is the ideal treatment side. You can check what distance the magnetic field

reaches out to by pulling the compass farther away and continuing to pulse until it no longer effects the compasses direction, Alternatively you could try using a metal washer (1/2" diameter) to see how far it

flies out when pulsed. That's it!