November 7, 2003(Author unknown)WINTERIZING YOUR INDMAR MONSOON ENGINE - OverviewThe process of winterizing your engine is incredibly easy. This assumes you have a few wrenches, a socket set, and a water hose, or access to fresh water. In fact, the entire process only uses 2 wrenches, two straight blade screwdrivers and one socket.

Indmar.com has a website with a winterization FAQ (see section 5) Also notice at the top of this page, there are owner manuals in PDF form.

A local Malibu dealer was gracious enough to spend a couple of hours showing us “DIY” guys how to properly winterize your engine for a lay- up period. It was suggested that this procedure should be done anytime the engine will not be run for 30 days or more. The process takes about 20 minutes. This does not include time for an oil change. *Note on oil changes* Many people may winterize, then on a pretty day put back in servic, then back down again. There is no problem in doing that except to remember two things. First, if the oil has over 5 hours use, change it again, and use fogging oil every time it will be down for 30 days or more. (See note on not fogging 2007 and later engines).

Factiod – Water, when frozen, is the only known compound or substance that expands when frozen. Waterbecomes ICE regardless of the relative ambient temperatures once below the freezing point. At the molecularlevel , when water is frozen it forms equally spaced crystals that expand. The expansion rate is roughly +10%over the same volume when a liquid. There are no known casings or castings that can defeat the incredible forceof ice expansion that will not crack, bend or break.

This document will detail the steps to be taken in the order in which they should be done.

CAVEAT - This is in no way a warranted document against damage to your engine and the writer (who is unknown, and IS NOT Pistol Pete of the Malibu Crew.com) specifically excludes any liability that may be associated with your following these technical suggestions.This merely is a restatement of ideas and tips shared by a highly respected Malibu dealer, with many years of experience and thousands of boats serviced.

APPROACH. -There are two approaches to consider in winterizing your boat. The first suggests an oil and filter change the other does not. ALL references in this guide assume you will include an oil change The assumption also is that your boat will stay laid up for 30 days or more.

First things first – Where is your boat when you plan on doing this? The article is written assuming the boat is on a trailer parked on level ground. It could be assumed the same would apply to a boat in a marina or private slip but on a lift completely out of the water . This also assumes (in either case) that you do not have and will not use a "flush-pro", "fake-a-lake" or any other gadget attached or modified from the original, factory delivered, boat’s water intake system. In the summary section, there will be some general comments regarding attached accessories and opinions from technicians performing this critically important procedure.

SUPPLIES / PARTS / TOOLS REQUIREDParts – 6 quarts of oil and 1 oil filter (SAE 15-40 standard OR Synthetic 15-40)1 can of engine fogging oil1 can of Stabil® Fuel conditioner1 can WD-40

Tools - A couple of straight blade screwdriversOne 9/16 inch wrench OROne 5/8 inch wrenchOne Socket wrench 3/4” socket for removing knock sensor.

Misc - A water hose with a way to turn off and on and regulate how much (a common valve)Shop towels or paper towels.A helper is nice but not required

GETTING STARTED:STEP ONE:It is absolutely critical that the engine be at full operating temperature prior to the oil change and winterizing procedure. A cold engine may not circulate a constant water flow to all areas inside the block of the engine. Instead, it may appear to be taking all the water you put in it, but will divert it from the engine to the exhaust manifolds and thus, out the exhaust.

Before starting the engine two things must be done. FIRST, add the proper mixture of STA-BIL fuel Stabilizer based on how much gasoline is left in the tank. and SECOND - prepare the main water intake hose to accept water from the garden hose.

FACTOID - Contrary to myths about ‘condensation’ in your fuel tank, this only occurs in metal tanks. Malibu has not used metal tanks since approximately 1984. This is not to say, however, that you can’t get water in fuel. Remember, it is transported in large metal rolling tanks and contamination from the refinery to the fuel nozzle could introduce water to your fuel system. Generally, it is insignificant.

1. Add the proper amount of Sta-Bil to your fuel tank. Try to determine how much gas you have in your boat's fuel tank. Then, using the ratio on the bottle of Sta-Bil, add the proper amount of Sta-Bil to a separate gallon of fuel and pour that gallon with the Sta-Bil in it, into the boat's tank. Storing the boat with little or no gas in the tank would be preferred.

2. Disconnect the water hose from the fitting at the raw water intake on the bottom of the boat (aka fresh water intake), on the starboard side (on Direct Drives) in the bilge area about midpoint of the engine. On V-drive models, the raw water intake is on the driver's side of the boat, next to the transmission.

To accomplish this procedure, use a flat head screwdriver and loosen one (or two – depending on what year boat and type of inlet) of the hose clamps and slide them back on the water intake hose. (Note – there are a couple of different types of connections at the brass water intake pipe. One may simply be a straight (vertical) pipe connected directly to the fitting. Another may have a 90 degree turn to it. The other may have a 90 degree elbow that connects to a large ball shutoff valve (03’s and newer))

Remove this hoseWhatever type, remove the hose from the intake pipe. Remove and place either one or two stainless hose clamps into a Zip lock bag.

3. Take the end of your garden hose and insert it into the open end of the water intake hose. Push inward about 12 to 18 inches inside the hose. It helps to tie a piece of string or mark on the hose where 18" is.

4. Gently bring the water intake hose (with garden hose inside it) and bend so that it is vertical or near vertical just above the level of the floor. Try to keep it all inside the engine area so that any water overflow will go into the bilge instead of the carpet.

Insert Garden Hose. The string is 18 inches from the tip

PREPARE TO START ENGINE **NOTE - ALL procedures with engine running are done at IDLE speed (600 – 800 RPM)**1. If you have a helper have him turn on the water at the same time you start the engine. ** NOTE ** IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO RUN THE HOSE AT FULL BLAST – IN FACT THERE SHOULD BE VERY LITTLE WATER OVERFLOW WHILE CONDUCTING THIS PROCEDURE. An amazingly slow flow of water (remember – idle speed) is all that is needed to feed the water pump and circulate water.2. Monitor the Engine gauge for an operating temperature of 160 degrees +/- 10 degrees.3. While it is warming up, now would be a good time to collect those items needed for an engine oil change. Oil, filter, whatever extraction method you use. Suction pump, quick drain hose, etc. container to put old oil in, rags or a milk jug cut down to about a 3 inch tall container – for oil filter removal. Wrenches as/if needed.4. While it is running, at IDLE, let it run a minimum of 15 minutes so that the Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer can reach through all the fuel lines and injectors. If water temps rise, increase flow of water from garden hose – it should not be flowing into the bilge.5. Once an estimated time of 15 minutes and engine is up to full operating temperature, turn off water hose and turnthe engine OFF. (leave hose where it is for now – as another short run will be done after oil change and for fogging)

ONCE ENGINE IS SHUT DOWN1. Change the oil in the engine and remove the oil filter (port side of engine towards the rear of the engine – (only on Direct Drive models- V-drives will be the other way around)

Helpful hint – take a plastic 1 gal milk jug and cut it down to about 3 inches tall. Slide that under where the oil filer comes off, to keep oil from spilling in the bilge. Use rags to clean up any spills.

2. Clean up any spilled oil with shop towels, rags or paper towels3. Put the new oil filter on the engine – make sure the rubber ring remained on the old filter (dip your finger in some fresh oil to put just a thin layer of oil on the rubber ring on top of the new filter)4. Hand tighten only. Needs to be tight, but don’t overdo it.5. Place 5 quarts of oil in the engine by using a funnel or other device to minimize spilling of oil onto the engine. Add oil through valve cover removable caps – usually towards the front of the engine on either side or both.

STARTING AND ENGINE FOGGING – After Oil Change …NOW PREPARE TO FOG THEENGINE- THIS WILL BE THE LAST TIME THE ENGINE IS RUN.

**NOTE - Do not fog or add oil to cylinders of any engine that has catalytic converters attached to the exhaust system. Malibu starting using catalytic converters from roughly 2007 and later models. **

1. Confirming that the oil filter is in place properly, and that all the oil caps on valve covers have been replaced, get ready to start and FOG the ENGINE.2. Using the same procedure as before, start the water hose flowing at the same time the engine is started. There is no need to ever exceed idle speed on the engine. Adjust the water flow from the hose so it isn’t overflowing into the bilge. 3. Remove the flame arrestor top by unscrewing the two knobs on the top. If your monsoon has newer type of intake, your setup may be different – The air filter may be towards the rear of the engine or you may have a pink colored (K+N style) air cleaner.

4. Begin squirting the fogging oil into the throttle butterfly valve (opposite the side that has the throttle position sensor mounted to it) continuously for about 10 to 15 seconds.5. You will immediately hear the engine sort of cough then the RPM will pick up (on EFI models only) – the computer is sensing a difference of fuel air mixture and is automatically adjusting for it. Keep squirting!6 After 10 to 15 seconds of continuous squirting, Turn off water supply and turn off the Engine.7. Confirm there are no oil leaks from your oil change. Re-check engine oil fill level. Adjust as necessary. If no leaks anywhere proceed to the next step of winterizing.

FACTOID – Pulling spark plugs and squirting an excessive amount of fogging oil or any other substance in cylinders can potentially cause major damage caused by a potential hydraulic lock. This is HIGHLY discouraged if you are un-familiar with engines.

DRAINING THE MANIFOLDS AND ENGINE BLOCK OF WATER.1. During this phase, there are some options here and there but deviation from the basics should not be overlooked.2 Remove the garden hose from the engine water intake hose – leave hose disconnected from main intake pipe.3 Remove the water hose that attaches to the bottom of the transmission cooler by unscrewing thestainless steel hose clamps. Store the clamps in the plastic bag with the other parts so far.

(NOTE The photo on the right looks up inside the trans. fluid cooler – THIS HAS JUNK that MUST be removed - see the tiny bits of the rubber impeller? It should look sort of like a honeycomb.)

4 Remove the large water hose from the engine’s water pump output hose (not the raw water impeller hose). Store the clamps away in the plastic bag with the other parts.

Remove the bottom clamp and pull off hose

5 Shake all removed hose ends to drain any remaining water.6 Unscrew the four screws on the raw water pump and remove cover plate. (some water may drain out.) Squirt in a generous amount of binding lube to the fins of the impeller.7 Now, pull off the red ‘kill switch’ lanyard and crank the engine over VERY BREIFLY – no more than 5 seconds. This will spurt out any remaining water on the top side / external side of the cooling system. This will also spread the boot lube around inside the impeller housing and assist in removing the impeller.

8 Remove the raw water pump impeller by using two screwdrivers and gently prying, evenly, on both sides at the same time. You could also use an impeller puller, especially useful if you have a V-drive.

Once removed, lightly cover w/ Vaseline or another lubricant and place it in a separate plastic bag. Put the cover plate and screws in the same bag as the hose clamps. If you are going to re-use the impeller next season, you will need a new gsaket. Common thought is that the impeller is good for approx. 200 hrs. But, it's only a $30 piece of insurance to replace it annually, and since you already have it out, I recommend installing a new one in the spring.

9. DRAINING EXHAUST MAINIFOLDS - There is about a 1 inch diameter hose attached to the rear of each exhaust manifold, towards the back of the engine. At the ends of each is what is called a ‘quick coupler’, which is nothing more than a garden hose connector – very similar to what you would see on your washing machine or garden hose. They meet sort of between the engine and the Monsoon cover plate above the oil pan. Simply unscrew those hoses and allow them to drain into the bilge and out of the boat. *Caution – the water may be hot. Leave them disconnected until you are ready to summarize and put it back together again.

Disconnect the brass looking quick coupler

DRAINING THE ENGINE BLOCK1. There are only TWO things that need to be removed from the engine block. On the port side of the engine down low, about mid engine, just above the oil pan is a brass drain plug or maybe a plug with a drain petcock on it. In either case, remove that (turn counter clockwise to remove **Remember lefty loosey, righty tighty).

2. Put that in the zip lock bag with your other hardware.3. There is a ‘knock sensor’ on the starboard side of the engine block that also serves as a drain plug for the engine block.4. Carefully remove the wire connector to the knock sensor and move the wire out of your way.5. You will need your socket now. Carefully place the ¾’ socket over the sensor and begin to remove using nominal force. Don’t over do it. If you break the sensor, get your check book ready as there is no repair if it breaks, nor will the engine run without it!

6. Watch the water coming out of both drain holes. It should be warm, nearly hot steamy water. Find a wire coat hanger or small ice pick, nail, or something like that to wiggle around in the drain holes to make certain there are no leaves or other contaminants clogging the drain holes.7. All the water should drain into the bilge and out the drain hole to the outside of the boat.

Extra / Bonus – if you have compressed air, go ahead and use it. Blow it in the engine block drain holes (once all the water has drained out) and up through the transmission cooler, if able, and anywhere else you can see a place to force some air around. ** NOTE – this IS NOT a required procedure. I have also heard of people using a shop vac to suck out any remaining water from the open hoses.

If you have a V-drive, you will need to remove the water drain plugs on the V-drive unit and drain the water from it. Refer to your V-drive owner's manual for the location of these drains.

If you have a heater and or a hot water shower installed in your boat, you will need to drain both of these systems. Instructions can be found on the Malibu Crew here and a good thread to read would be this one.

TIDY UP AND BUTTON DOWN FOR THE WINTER SEASON1. Once all the water has drained out of the engine block, the radiator type hoses, and the raw water pump impeller has been removed, it’s time now to just do a few final things for the remainder of the winterizing.

Helpful hint – now would be a good time to do some touch-up painting on the engine and/or manifolds. It does not need to be a ‘high-heat’ paint. Use a small brush for nut and bolt heads and allow to dry.

Steps 2 and 3 are completely optional…

2. Have a can of WD-40 (full can – 6 or 8 0z) and start at the stern end of the engine and transmission and spray liberally with WD-40 on everything.3. Continue spraying WD-40 liberally over all parts of the engine, electrical connectors, hoses but NOT the belts or in the alternator. You don’t want it dripping, just a good, light coating.4. Relieve tension on the drive belt by loosening the alternator bolts and lift up on it to take the tension off the belt. (Inspect it and sometime during the off season, get a replacement belt for standby use if that one fails)

5. Disconnect the battery from the –NEG post. Make certain all switches are turned off, so as not to make any sparks. Check the water level in the battery. Fill with distilled water if necessary. It's a good idea to invest in a "float charger" that will keep the batteries up all winter long.

Debunking myths about batteries – they do not have to be removed from your boat and stored in a ‘warm dry place’. The battery will do just fine in cold temperatures. There is only a need to keep the area well ventilated. Leave thebattery box top off and maybe leave the hatch to t he cuddy open. If you are more comfortable removing them, go ahead. They are heavy and likely have some tell-tale acid around them, so use caution around carpet and vinyl and clothes.

6. Close the engine hatch and put a small 2x4 block or something similar to leave some air space between the floor board, bilge, and engine cover.7. For those in very humid climates or if your boat will be outside during the winter, some may want to use a drying agent to absorb moisture. Driz-the-air or similar dessicants and even electronic dehumidifiers are recommended. Otherwise, on a sunny warm day, just remove the cover and allow the sun and air to get to it.

Helpful Hint – toss in a couple of sheets of those fabric softener sheets like Bounce or Downy to keep a nice smell of freshness inside, especially if your boat stays tightly covered.

If your Boat is on a Trailer8. Check the air pressure in your trailer tires and over inflate by 5 to 10 pounds during the lay-up period. (keeps tires from getting flat spots on them from sitting). It might be a good idea to put tire covers on the tires that will be exposed to the sun to prevent dry-rot.9. Check the bearings on your trailer, and add appropriate lubricant if needed. 10. Use a check list of the things you did and keep that in the zip lock bag where all your parts are. Remove the key from the ignition and put that in the same bag. Tape or hang the bag from the steering wheel or other obvious area.11. If you use a tarp or boat cover, make certain all items that don’t need to be in the boat are out, check again for last minute pick up of tools or other items inside the boat. Prop open the ski locker and crack storage lockers if able for ventilation.12. Place your clean boat cover on and snug it down for the winter. Use prop rods or some other means to keep the cover/tarp from pooling when it rains or ice or snow gets on it.

YOU HAVE NOW SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED WINTERIZATION OF YOUR BOATThis article was written from detailed notes taken directly from an on-location demonstration of how to winterize your boat by a locally known and highly respected Malibu Dealer. These shop techs have been doing this for years. While this may be more specific to southern climates where extreme cold is not experienced for long periods, the procedures above are all that are recommended. For others, this may need to be modified . ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR MALIBU DEALER IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS.

POST SCRIPT NOTES AND COMMENTSAfter the demonstration was completed, there was an open question and answer period. Many things were discussed and they were more than patient to answer and explain quite a number of topics, myths and options.

1st ANTI-FREEZE – This will surely draw some hot debate among boaters and shops alike. For reference, remember, this workshop was conducted in the south where extremes are not predominant. The Dealers here never use nor do they suggest using it. Neither friendly EPA pink and certainly not glycol based antifreeze are recommended for engine and cooling systems. There may be a place for it in accessories, but generally not. Shops actually hate owners that use antifreeze. Here’s why. When customers bring in their boats to do a tune up and ready them for spring, the shop will run the engine. They have no way of knowing until they start it what’s inside, then all the antifreeze comes blowing out the exhaust and all over the shop floor, then down the city's drains into the sewer system. There is a place for antifreeze. MOSTLY IN AUTOMOBILE CLOSED WATER COOLING SYSTEMS ONLY!

2nd Fogging Cylinders individually. This is the second biggest complaint and myth shops deal with. Like you,many have read on bulletin boards or heard second hand that this is a good thing to do. The shops would loveit if everyone dumped all the cylinders full of fogging oil, Marvel Mystery Oil or, Uncle Joe’s favorite concoctionto ‘protect’ the cylinders, rings, and valve train. The reason shops would love you for doing this – they would likely be replacing at the least a new set of heads, and maybe a new short block as well. The only thing fogging individual cylinders is good for is setting up a potential hydraulic lock (assuming the plugs are put back in). First crank and bang. Broken piston, connecting rod, rings, valve seats or guides are likely targets of such actions.

3rd Flush-Pro® and Fake-A-Lake® - They may have certain uses in certain water conditions but on average,probably not a good investment. While Flush-Pro may have advantages in salt or brackish water conditions, even that isn’t critically important unless the engine is laid up for an extended period of time. It will do very little good, and may even damage (under very unusual circumstances) the cooling system. Fake-A-Lake also isn’t a good idea (at least to the shop guys way of thinking). The reason? You jam this contraption between the ground and the water intake on the bottom of the boat. You begin doing your thing with water squirting everywhere and getting into and out of the boat can actually work to dislodge it by bouncing around on the trailer where it falls on the ground and the engine is getting no water, but the driveway, or street is getting a soaking!

4th Spark Plugs – The plugs that come from the factory are rated for 300 hours of use before inspection – Notreplacement – inspection! If you bought your boat used and don’t know the times on it, the ECM module contains that information –sorry guys, sort of like running back the speedometer on old cars – no need to modify the hobbs meter (engine hour gauge). It won’t work anymore on cars or Malibu’s! If you get a kick out of ‘just looking’ go ahead, but unless the engine is acting up or there is reason to suspect something, serves no purpose. If you do pull them out, put a little dielectric grease on the threads when they go back in.

5th IMPELLERS - Once again what your buddy told you or what you read in some magazine or an Internet board, the fact is impellers will wear out and break into tiny shards of rubber very quickly. You can most often smell it just before it goes, if you are out on the water. INSURANCE – Carry a spare with you with a couple of screwdrivers and maybe some pliers. Even without a ball valve shutoff while in the water, any water taken on will be minimal while changing this part out if it self-destructs. If this is just beyond your comfort level, use your cell phone or flag someone down for a tow-in-to-dock. Your boat is equipped with a sensor to light up an alarm light and maybe some audible alarm as well. Turn the engine off immediately. From the PREVENTION side of things, “Replace annually” are their direct words and “carry a spare”. Now, annually leaves a LOT of subjective conditions. About 100 hours is a good rule of thumb. On the other hand, you could drive over a plastic bag in the water, or suck up mud or for whatever (and usually unknown) reason the impeller will fail. The engine can not be run without a continuous flow of water to it. Use Vaseline, or some other slippery stuff to help install the new one and protect the one you take out (if you are going to use it again). Sun tan lotion also works well to grease it up for emergency replacement.

6th Drive Belts There is only one. It is attached to the crankshaft and it turns the alternator and primary engine circulating water pump. The tension should be between 30 and 60 pounds, but who can measure this? At the longest place between pulleys (bottom of crankshaft to the alternator), deflection should only be an inch or so at max. While you can watch this belt turn, it is not recommended because of the ease of which it could catch your clothes or hair – nonetheless, while the engine is running and during quick throttle advances it should not squeal. Replacement is recommended every year, but a good inspection will satisfy most. Common sense applies. If it shows cracking, change it. Also, not a bad idea to carry a spare on board. Running the engine without a belt will overheat the engine in VERY short order.

7th Fuel and Octane ratings – Your Indmar stock engine was designed to run on standard grade (87 octane) fuel. With electronic injection, and timing, air/fuel mixtures will be automatically adjusted by the ECM module should there be knocking or low burn rates in the cylinders. It is, however, suggested that Premium grade (89 octane) be used when a full load or at or near full gross weight in the peak summer heat. Supreme grade (93 octane) isn’t required, but will not harm the engine if used. It just harms the $$cost$$ of gas money!

8th Clean-Up Supplies- The shops use simple, over the counter, easily obtained cleaners. They recommend Simple Green® for minor stains on the carpet or vinyl. Various protectants are available and all have their place. They use and recommend 3m® Vinyl Conditioner for the interior vinyl. 303© is also widely used on vinyl, rubber, sunbrella® fabrics and the like. For exterior wash, use a mild warm good grade soft soap – McGuires Gold is a good one or similar. Waxing can vary depending on the condition of the gel coat. If in tip-top condition, a good liquid or paste carnuba wax is fine. Silicon based can be problematic if the gel coat has to be repaired as matching can get difficult over time with silicone based waxes. Hi cost UV protectants can be used but any wax with UV protection will do fine. Wipe on by hand or use with orbital buffer, then wipe off with clean scratch free cotton towel. (do not use a towel that went through the dryer with a wrinkle free sheet as it contains minor amounts of chemical that could react with the wax and actually scratch or remove some of the UV protection.) In general, wax the sun exposed surfaces every 3rd or 4th time after using. The hull (below the rub rail) about twice a season or every 7th or 8th time out. Avoid water spots that are allowed to dry. Remove bird droppings immediately.

9th WATER TOYS, ACCESSORIES, HEATERS, SHOWERS, BALLAST TANKS, SPECIAL PLUMBINGThese items are generally very difficult to guarantee adequate protection from freezing within the confines of the do-it-yourself guys, unless you have specific instructions from the manufacturer of those accessories for ice prevention. Only generalizations can be put forward and no warranty or statements will assure you that all is completed and protected against freezing. In general, however, the same common sense things apply to draining at the lowest point apply to accessories as they do to the engine cooling system.

Compressed air will also help. Leave all valves in the OPEN position, drain water out and blow compressed air through the component. Ballast tanks, fittings, and pumps are even more difficult to guarantee protection from long periods of freezing conditions. It is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED you consult with your Malibu Dealer or Shop Manager if you intend on doing these items yourself, or with the product vendor if the attached accessory is a non Malibu part or system. Use of anti-freeze may be warranted in such situations, and if so use EPA friendly antifreeze. If you do the work yourself AND you use Antifreeze, then for whatever reason you need to take your boat to the dealer. Make certain you tell them what and where you have used antifreeze. They don’t want it all over their shop floor.

This completes every facet of the winterization workshop, including the procedures for winterizing your own boat and some general observations, questions and answers, factoids and helpful hints. Hopefully, you found this article interesting and helpful. And Remember - Malibu Boat Owners LOVE THEIR BOATS! The Malibu Dealers really have a genuine interest in helping you understand and work on your boat, engine and accessories too! Enjoy your boat both in season and off season. Read up and learn about what makes your MALIBU unique out of all the otherhigh performance ski/wakeboard boats out there. Your Indmar Engine is one of the most widely used marine engines around the world. It’s performance, reliability, and service life make the others just wish. May all the waters be calm and warm!