Canadian Jeweller Magazine - February Issue

canadian jewellermagazine

the business of retailing jewellery

Est.1879

Crime Report 2009How safe is our industry?

PLUS: ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

Travel SecurityKeeping your guard

up – on the road

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Rolling with the TimesWhat’s new direct from Geneva’s SIHH

New BeginningsAn introduction to the long-awaited

Diamond Bourse of Canada

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010

$25

John de Jong of JdJ Jewellery in Toronto

ExclusiveUndimmed RadiancePearls are a classic staple to every collection

John de Jong of

Enterprise

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Siffari Jewellery Co. Limited, 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2Tel: 416-441-1010 Fax: 416-441-6188 1-800-387-0111

www.siffari.com email: [email protected]

Sterling Silver and Gold

Canada’s leading ring andjewellery manufacturer

Siffari Ad layout 1/8/10 2:35 PM Page 1

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 81

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Unlock Your Imagination

Canadian contact: 866.815.5511

Because quality craftsmanship is what you aspire to, we manufacture our findings to the highest professional standards. Our job is to enhance your skills with the largest selection, highest quality, and most innovative tools and findings available today. Experience our dedication to you firsthand and unlock your imagination.

Stuller. The beauty of it all.™

The DTC logo is a trade mark used under license from DTC.

www.stuller.com


cjFebMar10_Stuller_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:33:57 AM

Canadian Jewellers Association is the voice of the Canadian jewelleryindustry, providing leadership in ethics, education and communication.Here are some of the benefits you will enjoy by becoming a member:

• Participate in consumer outreach branding program leading toincreased jewellery sales.

• Receive promotional rates on education courses such as JETS(Jewellery Education Training System), including free access to JM University, and online security training course offered throughJewelers Mutual.

• Receive extensive and evolving member benefit programs resulting in substantial cost savings.

• Benefit from CJA advocacy with all levels of government and learnabout new laws and regulations specific to our industry.

Become a member today by visiting www.canadianjewellers.comand completing a membership application.

Jewelers Mutual was founded by jewellers in 1913 and remainsthe leading insurer solely dedicated to insuring jewellery and thejewellery industry. Here are just some of the benefits you’ll receive:

• Customize your insurance policy whether you are a retailer,manufacturer, wholesaler, designer, or appraiser.

• Get superior claims service – 99.9% of our policyholders rateour claim service as good or excellent.

• Gain free access to Jewelers Mutual’s library of security training courses and materials.

• Depend on an insurance company that is financially soundand has been rated A+ Superior for 23 years.

Contact us today for a free quote.

Jewelers Mutual is proud to partner with the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) to enhance the services each organization provides tothe Canadian jewellery industry. Together, Jewelers Mutual and CJA will work to assure the health and vitality of the jewellery industry and developbetter products and services for you.

Celebrating a great partnership

800-580-0942; www.canadianjewellers.com 800-558-6411 • www.JewelersMutual.ca


cjFebMar10_JewellersMutual_dps1Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:28:51 AM

J E W E L L E R TO D AY … H E R O TO M O R R O W !

Chipped stone. Lost ring. Damaged watch. Customers can be really hard on their jewellery!

Now your customers can insure their prized possessions with Personal Jewelry Insurance from

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively in protecting jewellery

and jewellery businesses in Canada* and the United States.

• Consumer materials available to you at no cost

• Easy online application for your customers

• Competitive rates

• Comprehensive coverage

• Repairs and replacements by customer’s preferred jeweller

So when your customer has a jewellery mishap, you can be the hero! With Personal Jewelry Insurance from

Jewelers Mutual, your customers can return to you, their jeweller of choice, for repairs or replacements.

To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with

your customers, visit www.JewelersMutual.ca or call 800-558-6411.

800-558-6411 • [email protected]

* Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Québec.

NOW IN QUÉBEC

E X C L U S I V E L Y E N D O R S E D B Y

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EXCELLENCE iNdesignAward Ceremony & Reception

The Annual

To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contactOlivier Felicio at [email protected] or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.

For complete details on how to enter your designs, contactDan Hare at [email protected] or 416-203-7900 X 6101.

Excellence In Design_NEW:Layout 1 2/11/10 11:13 AM Page 1

DESIGNER’S NAME

COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION

ADDRESS CITY

PROVINCE POSTAL CODE

PHONE FAX

EMAIL ADDRESS

CATEGORY

TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN (SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS)

Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompaniedby technical details.)

ENCLOSED IS: MY FINISHED PIECE(S) OF JEWELLERY.AN ENTRY FEE OF $25 (CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA.)

I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.

SIGNATURE

SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.

RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION

• Jewellery must have been designed and made in

Canada.

• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must

adhere to the criteria set out in each category.

• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are

not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for

diamonds.

• One submission per designer, per category.

• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and

jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable

precautions while the jewellery is in our possession,

Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for

insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your

own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss,

theft or damage for the duration of the competition.

• In each category, three finalists will be selected.

Judges will then choose an overall winner in

each category.

• To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and

a $25 fee for each package.

• Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of

the designer. To arrange for the return, please con-

tact a Canadian Jeweller representative at (416) 203-

7900.

• Winning entries and all information provided about

the entries may be used for promotional purposes.

Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the de-

signs, as well as press releases, will also be used for

this purpose.

Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, cre-

ativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.

Consideration will also be given to marketability.

ENTER CANADIAN JEWELLER’SEXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION

Excellence In Design_NEW:Layout 1 2/11/10 11:13 AM Page 2

8 CJ f e b r u a r y / m a r c h 2 0 1 0 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

NOW KICKING OFF IN

CANADA

ITALY'SFAVOURITE WATCH

DISTRIBUTED EXCLUSIVELYBY

W W W . C H R O N O T E C H . C O M

Provider of high-quality findingsfor over 35 years

Toronto, Canada[416] 866-7402

www.bluepointfindings.ca

EstablishEd 1879 febrUArY/mArch 2010 • vol. 131, no. 2

andrea hopson Guest Editor Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] lucy holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]

Carol besler Editorial Consultant Paul aguirre Associate Editor | [email protected]

danielle Ng-see-Quan Editorial Assistant | [email protected]

scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] leslie Ross Designer | [email protected]

stacy Karjala Designer | [email protected] Jordan Martinez Production Manager | [email protected]

Melanie seth Accounting and Administration | [email protected] daniel hare Administration Coordinator | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs

salEslucy holden

sarah Perkin

Jeff Yamaguchi

CiRCUlatiONGarth atkinson

head Office

Montreal Office

AssociAte publisher

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

email [email protected]

ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126


ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


publicAtioN pArtNers

345 Kingston road, suite 101

pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1

toll free 1-877-547-2246


60 bloor street West, suite 1106

toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8

tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

555 chabanel street West, suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide is-

sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50

per subscription per year (canada only).

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

Official magazine of JVCFor details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 81

Davide bagnarol, howard Grosfield, sarah b. hood, ron hooper, Amber Khalen, bonnie siegler, clare tattersall.

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 2/11/10 10:33:07 AM

An Ounce of Prevention is Worth 2,267.9 Carats of Cure.

Get your 2010 Crime Prevention Package:

• Access to a database on criminal activity • Alerts on jewellery crime in Canada• Crime Prevention Manual CD • Access to JVC Security Library • Crime Prevention Bulletins on effective security procedures

Sign up now at www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca or call 1-800-636-9536

Get your 2010 Crime Prevention Package:

Arm yourself with knowledge and tools to protect your business.

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-pro� t association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.

C R I M E P R E V E N T I O N • R E S O U R C E P R O T E C T I O N • S A F E T Y A W A R E N E S S

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CJfebMar10_JVC_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:34:29 AM


table of

Contents

34 Exclusive Enterprise John de Jong gives us the insider perspective on his

perfect model for second-flooring retailing.

40 Undimmed Radiance Taking a closer look at why pearls are still a big ticket item

with long-lasting value.

44 New Beginnings After months of planning (and years of waiting),

the Diamond Bourse of Canada is finally here.

46 Rolling with the Times Watch trends direct from the SIHH in Geneva.

50 How to Raise Prices Thinking of increasing your prices? Tips on how, why

and when to do it.

62 Prevention is the Best Protection What to know about your security before you hit the road.

66 Full Replacement How the Internet can be one of your best insurance

tools yet.

70 Crime Report An update on the industry’s crime rates and statistics.

February/March

Features

46

34

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© Chamilia, Inc. 2009. All rights reserved.®Swarovski AG. Made with CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements.

To become a Chamilia retailer or to learn about Chamilia retailer programs, our 2010 promotions and marketing materials, contact Chamilia at 1-800-495-0977. Or email us at [email protected]

Chamilia. Stronger than ever.Beautiful as always.

Ranked among the fastest growing brands in the personalized jewelry category, Chamilia is expanding all across Canada. The collection offers over 600 beautiful beads, fashioned to create endless jewelry combinations, each as unique as the woman who wears it. Intricately designed in dazzling sterling silver, 14k gold, Swarovski® crystal, colored stones and Italian Murano glass, Chamilia is brighter and warmer, in more stylish colors. It’s also why customers return to their retailers 7 to 10 times a year to explore and create their own jewelry possibilities. With Chamilia, you’re creating more than a sale, you’re creating a customer for a lifetime.


CJfebMar10_M2Universal_Chamilia_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:35:07 AM


table of

ContentsFebruary/March

Departments14 Letter from the Guest Editor

16 Product Showcase

22 Who’s News Remembering Harold Weinstein; New Grace Kelly

collection.

24 For The Record GIA NY relocates; Hublot opens new Paris boutique;

Toywatch creates limited edition watch for Haiti relief.

29 Stock Index

30 Mining News All the happenings in the mining sector.

32 JVC’s Crime Report This is a true story: a jeweller recounts the day his life

changed forever.

54 Company Profile Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company.

56 Designer Profile Ian Suade.

68 Star Watch Sparkling Statements.

73 What’s On

74 Showcase

77 Marketplace

81 Fax Back

82 Last Word

56

68

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12 08 2009 1249 100% V1 barbi braude digital production

FILE NAME ONEIL_FP_CanJwlr_Sept DESCRIPTION

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BLEED 0.25” SEPS RUN YesLIVE 0.5" all round from trim OUTPUT

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BARBI BRAUDE | 604 319 0313

www.caratsmart.ca

#622-736 Granville St.Vancouver, B.CV6Z 1G3

Phone: 604-909-0818Fax: 604-909-0272T-Free: 1866-9O’Neill(662-455)

Diamonds are not shown to scale

O’Neill Diamonds Inc.


cjFebMar10_ONeillDiamonds_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:36:49 AM

14 CJ F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 0 1 0 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

letterfromguesteditor

I am delighted to serve as guest editor of this issue by introducing custom jeweller and appointment-only retailer John de Jong as the subject of this issue’s cover story. I have known John as a colleague and as a friend for 18 years, and I have long admired his talent for both the business and design side of the jewellery industry.

John de Jong is an international traveller and man of great elegance and style who has done a remarkable and impressive job of offering custom design jewellery. His unique style, which involves the use of unique, beautiful and often rare gems has opened up the world of jewellery to a discerning clientele, particularly in Canada, where his clients can discover the best of the world of jewellery. His international lifestyle, including maintaining an office in Switzerland, ensures that de Jong’s designs are continuously fresh, exciting and leading-edge.

The cover story about John and his unique jewellery business, on page 34 of this issue, o� ers insight into the degree of commitment it takes to achieve success as a “second-� oor” retailer.

Andrea HopsonVice-President, Ti� any & Co.Guest Editor

Design-focused Retailing

Andrea Hopson

014.CJ_Directors.indd 14 2/11/10 1:23:51 PM

DESIGN YOUR UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS WITH PANDORA CHARMS, RINGS, NECKLACES, AND EARRINGS IN STERLING SILVER AND 14K GOLD

L IFE HAS ITS MOMENTS.. .

. . .MAKE THEM UNFORGETTABLE

U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • © • All rights reserved

PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM

Spending Valentine’s Day where we fi rst met

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productshowcase

Individual ExpressionFor half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more information, write 124 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

Pacific Urns Pacific Urns has, in a short time become the largest supplier of quality Urn Jewellery with distributors in Canada, USA, United Kingdom and Australia. They have also recently launched a complete Pet Line. Each Pacific Urns design is available in all precious metals and with or without diamonds. Each Jewellery Urn includes a gold or silver chain to match your selection, a Cherry Wood accent or burgundy display box, solid sterling silver scoop to assist in filling, cleaning cloth to keep your pendant looking its best, instructions on filling, sealing and maintaining your pendant and an unconditional lifetime warranty on your sterling silver chain. For more information, write 126 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

Special Collection: Liquid Silver The luxury of sterling silver is launched in the new Liquid Silver collection by PANDORA. Liquid Silver is a collection of rings, earrings, bracelets, and is only available at PANDORA stores and Shop-in-Shops. For more information, write 126 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

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Customized Branding to

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smartSites it’s what consumers expect

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Office: 647.722.5676Mobile: 647.501.4367Fax: [email protected]

Did You Know?- OpenBlue runs the largest network ofretail jewellery sites in Canada?- OpenBlue has more Canadian Diamondsthan BlueNile?

smartSites start at $70/month A one-time $250 setup-upgrade fee applies.Domain registration @39.95 per year.

3 ways to get started: Call 1-647-722-5676 or Sign-up at www.openbluestores.com or Download this form at www.bit.ly/smartsites and fax it to us.

Add these powerful options:eFlyers ($25/month)

Put your store in the same league as national brands. Your customers can sign-up to receive monthlyeFlyers created by us to promote your preferred suppliers. Or create your own eFlyer, with your ownselection of products (available for additional charge).Got your own e-mail list to start? That’s great. We’ll help you build it.

Surveys & Forms ($15/month)

Add customer satisfaction surveys, contest entries and other forms to your site. Forms can even belinked to coupons or other promotional material once the customer completes the form. An introductoryprice of $15/month includes a customer satisfaction survey and a gift certificate/gift card purchase form.

Take this smartSite out for a test drive at www.wrightsjewelry.ca

World ClassDesign

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productshowcase

Personal Jewelry InsuranceChipped stone. Lost ring. Damaged watch. Customers can be hard on their jewellery! Now your customers can insure their jewellery with Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in Canada* and the United States. With insurance from Jewelers Mutual, your customers can return to you, their jeweller of choice, for repairs or replacements. (*Personal Jewelry Insurance is not available in Québec.) Exclusively endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association and the American Gem Society. For more information, write 127 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

DiemmeffeChic, classic, outstanding enriching and versatile jewel mosaic designs in 18kt gold and precious stones from JOMARK, Canada’s premier distributor of European gold jewellery since 1989. Offering an extensive range of gold jewellery, JOMARK’s high standards and passion, guarantees high quality luxury jewellery delivered across Canada. Acquire luxury jewellery from the unsurpassed gold distributor, JOMARK For more information, write 128 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

Chamilia - Your Life. Your Style.Chamilia offers a dazzling selection of over 600 beads in .925 silver, 14k gold, Italian Murano glass, Swarovski Crystal, coloured stones and an exclusive Disney collection, all designed to make a lasting impression. With over 30 new designs introduced each quarter, it’s no wonder customers come back to Chamilia’s retailers again and again. Discover the World of Chamilia at chamilia.com. For more information, write 129 on the Free Info Card on page 81.


www.atlanticengraving.com1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4

Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: [email protected]

The heart & soul of wedding bands


cjFebMar_AtlanticEngraving_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:37:39 AM


productshowcase

SiffariA tradition in excellence continues with Siffari’s Signature Collection. Manufactured entirely in Canada, Siffari has combined unique design and detailed craftsmanship in this stunning collection. Featured here is a 14K two-tone gold ring with 0.21 cts of natural yellow diamonds and .61 cts of white diamonds. For more information, write 130 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

Stuller Get a luxurious look for less with this freshwater pearl ensemble from Stuller! The lengthy 38-inch necklace creates a dramatic, stylish look featuring 12.00-13.00MM Freshwater Cultured White Coin pearls and sterling silver. The earrings, also showcasing Freshwater White Coin pearls and sterling are the perfect compliment to complete this duo. For more information, write 132 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

MirageThere are many ways to describe Nova’s new tourmaline and chalcedony rings. A few words that come to mind are stylish, trendy, and funky. Ranging from 3 carats of black and white diamonds to over 6 carats meshed with the breathtaking centre gems, these rings are unique and tremendously detailed. For more information call Nova @ (416) 868-6682. For more information, write 125 on the Free Info Card on page 81.


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22 CJ F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 0 1 0 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m22

Find out who is making headlines in the jewellery industry.

Harold Weinstein

Grace Kelly Lives OnVan Cleef and Arpels has teamed up with the Victoria and Albert Museum to bring the beauty, glamour and style of Hollywood actress and Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly to London, England, this Spring. Called Grace Kelly: Style Icon, the exhibit will display out� ts from Kelly’s � lms, the out� t she wore when she met her future husband Prince Rainier, her haute couture gowns from the 1960s and 1970s and, of course, her jewels. � e legendary French jeweller Van Cleef and Arpels will support the Victoria and Albert Museum by sponsoring their exploration into the style of the inimitable screen siren. � e exhibit will run from April 17 until September 26, 2010.

Grace Kelly

Harold Weinstein RememberedHarold Weinstein, � sherman, jeweller, appraiser emeritus and a wise friend with a great heart died on January 8th, 2010. Harold was born into a trade that has changed greatly over the years. In Northern Ontario, his father sold pocket watches to miners out of a pack on his back. Today, jewellery is sold over the Internet. As a child, Harold started in the business by sweeping the � oors of his father’s Sudbury store on the weekends and a� er school. He developed an eye for detail working at the watchmaker’s bench and a love and understanding of jewellery. With his wife, Claire, by his side (in her own right, the most savvy fashion jewellery buyer anywhere) Harold built the four-store guild chain called Gordon Jewellers. He was one of the � rst independent American Gem Society jewellers in Canada. At a time when storeowners were telling their salespeople to sell jewellery “just because it sparkles” Harold encouraged his people to take gemmological courses and even o� ered to pay for most of them; he was an innovator. In 1970, he was the � rst to decorate his stores in a single, themed colour. He banned point of sale displays from his counters and gi� ware from his showcases. He bought his diamonds and mountings separately. A diamond customer could order by weight, quality or price point. � ese things that are so common now, Harold was doing 40 years ago. He became a vice

president of Peoples Jewellers in 1975, but chafed at corporate restrictions. A� er a heart attack in 1976, he le� retail to become a man of leisure, but soon opened a small coloured gemstone and appraisal business “just to keep busy.” In 1990, a� er working behind the scenes for many years on boards and committees, he served as president of the Canadian Jewellers Association. He was a founding member of Jewellers Vigilance Canada, the � rst recipient of the Canadian Jeweller magazine Hall of Fame Award and a proud member of the 24 Karat Club. Leaving his business in the capable hands of long-time associates Duncan Parker and Anne Neumann, he retired for good in 1997 to spend more time up North � shing. His daughters enriched his life: Susan, a writer and gi� ed commentator on the human condition, and Ellen. Ellen was at the root of another of Harold’s great loves, the community called L’Arche Daybreak, where he canvassed sel� essly to support developmentally-handicapped people of this community. For anyone wanting to remember Harold, a gi� to Daybreak (larchedaybreak.com) would make Claire happiest. He will always be remembered as a pioneer of the Canadian jewellery industry, forever living on in the legacy he built. — Anne Neumann

IDI Teams Up With All India � e Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies has joined forces with the All India Gems and Jewellery Trade Federation to create areas of cooperation between the two organizations. C. Vinod Hayagriv, Chairman of All India Gems and Jewellery Trade Federation, and Eli Avidar, ID managing director, signed a Memorandum of Understanding at a ceremony in Jaipur, India. � e MOU calls for an ongoing exchange of information between the two parties, an analysis of joint interests to protect the industry, a joint educational e� ort and will grant each organization honourary memberships in all functions and events each organization holds.

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F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 0 1 0 CJ 2323

Cindy Crawford Seals it with a KissCindy Crawford is launching an a� ordable 40-piece jewellery collection in April. � e collection, called One Kiss, will be exclusive to JCPenney, and pieces will range in price from $79 to $299. Described as simple yet sophisticated, the collection will feature pieces made of sterling silver, gemstones and diamonds inspired by the henna symbol that means “kiss” when translated.

New WJA President� e Women’s Jewelry Association has appointed Kendra Bridel Weinman as the WJA incoming president. Weinman succeeds Yancy Weinrich, Luxury by JCK and JCK Las Vegas. Weinman, president of Lusciouss International, has over 11 years of experience in the jewellery industry, including positions at Montblanc and Taché. Newly elected board members include: Ruth Batson, American Gem Society; Patti Geolat; Geolat, Companies; Anne Valentzas, Leo Schacter Diamonds; and Denise Sha� er, CTP, Sterling Jewelers. [CJ]

who’snews

New Designer On The BlockSteve Madden is set to add the title ‘jewellery designer’ to his resume. � e American footwear designer has teamed up with Lucas Design International to create and market a women’s fashion jewellery collection. � e collection, which will hit stores in Fall 2010, will be sold at higher-end department stores, specialty retailers, Steve Madden stores and online.

Rachel Bilson’s Bracelet Benefi tInspired a� er her trip to Botswana and South Africa in December to learn more about improvements made to the diamond mining industry, actress Rachel Bilson decided to create a bracelet to bene� t the Diamond Empowerment Fund, a non-pro� t that supports education in Africa. � e bracelet, which retails for $100 with $20 from the sale of each piece going to the Fund to build student housing at the CIDA City Campus, a university in Johannesburg, is made of brown leather cords with a sparkly round diamond framed by a twisted gold charm.

Rachel Bilson

Rapaport Resigns from World Diamond CouncilMartin Rapaport, Chairman of the Rapaport Group, resigned from the World Diamond Council at the beginning of February. In a letter to the World Diamond Council, Rapaport explained his reasons for his resignation, due to the industry’s continuing struggle to deal with the current situation involving the Kimberley Process violations in Zimbabwe. In his letter, Rapaport said, “Severe human rights violations including murder, rape and enslavement have taken place in the diamond � elds of Marange, Zimbabwe. � ese Marange blood diamonds have been imported into the cutting centers with KP certi� cates. � ey have then been polished and set into jewelery and sold to retailers with WDC System of Warranty statements. Marange blood diamonds are now in the diamond distribution system and are being sold to consumers. � e WDC has not only failed to notify retailers of the situation, but on January 27, 2009, issued a false statement claiming. “WDC’s System of Warranties: Assurance of the legitimate source of the diamonds.” Rapaport added, “Continued trading of blood diamonds by the jewelry industry under the guise of WDC legitimization enables, empowers and provides � nancial support to individuals, companies and governments that perpetuate severe human rights abuses in the diamond sector. I am shocked that the WDC continues to cover up human rights abuses.”

Drummond Elected to JFC BoardPatrick Drummond, VP Sales and Marketing at Jeweler’s Mutual Insurance Company, has been appointed to the Jewelers for Children board of directors. Drummond will serve on the JFC committees and assist with fund-raising and program development during his three-year term. Drummond has worked at Jeweler’s Mutual since 2006 and has more than 16 years of insurance experience.

Cindy Crawford

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GIA NY to Relocate to International Gem TowerThe Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has announced plans to relocate the GIA New York Laboratory to Extell’s International Gem Tower (IGT), located at 47th and Fifth. The GIA has signed a contract to purchase an entire floor in the tower, which is currently under construction and set for completion in 2012, as reported in the previous issue of CJ. “We look forward to relocating our New York Laboratory operations into a single floor of the IGT,” says Donna Baker, president and CEO of GIA. “This purchase will increase our efficiency and help GIA manage its long term costs. The move will reinforce

our commitment to the New York and U.S. marketplace.” Added Gary Barnett, president of Extell Development Company, “This prestigious Institute clearly recognizes the value the development brings to New York’s Diamond District, and we’re thrilled to have them on board.”

Jewelers Mutual Insurance and Canadian Jewellers Association Forge PartnershipJewelers Mutual Insurance Company and the Canadian Jewellers Association have joined forces in an effort to enhance the quality of services each provides to the Canadian jewellery industry. The organizations have formed a strategic

partnership that will see the Canadian Jewellers Association exclusively endorsing Jewelers Mutual’s insurance products while Jewelers Mutual has agreed to support the CJA’s educational program and funding initiatives. The two companies have also agreed to share information on their areas of expertise, including business management, insurance issues and retail strategies.

Telep Becomes North American Distributor for RianaTelep Distributors Ltd., a Winnipeg, Manitoba-based giftware distributor, has announced a new distribution agreement with Riana Designer Jewellery as exclusive distributor in North America. Riana’s jewellery line is made from stainless steel, platinum, gold and crystal and includes necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and bangles.

Birks & Mayors Reports Holiday Sales IncreaseBirks & Mayors Inc. has announced that net sales for the period from November 1 to December 26 increased by 6%. Sales for the holiday season were US$69.7-million, compared to US$66.0-million for the same period in 2008. The company also reports that while comparable stores sales in the United States decreased by 6% comparable store sales in Canada increased by 6%.

Zale CEO ResignsZale Corporation has undergone major restructuring again, with the mass exodus of key members of its executive team. CEO Neal Goldberg, William Acevedo, chief stores officer and Mary Kwan, chief merchandising officer have all resigned. Some remaining members of the executive team have assumed additional titles and responsibilities. The company’s current president, Theo Killion, has been appointed interim CEO, while Gil Hollander, executive vice-president, has taken on the additional role of chief merchandising officer.

news | trends | events

Hublot Opens Second Paris BoutiqueHublot has announced it will open a second boutique in Place Vendome, Paris, the heart of the luxury goods world, in spring 2010. The opening is part of the company’s developing network of single-brand boutiques. Other openings as part of the expansion are planned for 2010, including locations on Madison Avenue in New York and Bal Harbour. Hublot currently has 20 boutiques worldwide, including stores in Geneva, Moscow, Shanghai, Dubai and Istanbul.


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Finished Jewellery & Loose DiamondsNova Diamonds Inc.

221 Victoria St. Lower LevelToronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4

Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666


cjFebMar10_MirageNovaDiamonds_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:39:33 AM

Harry Oppenheimer Museum to Host New ExhibitionThe Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Museum will host a new exhibition of diamond jewellery designed by members of the Israeli Diamond Industry. The exhibit showcases the works of 25 contemporary jewellery designers, each of whom was given three carats of diamonds by various Israeli diamond companies, along with instructions to use the diamonds in their designs. When the exhibition concludes, the jewellery will be sold. The exhibition is curated by Batia Wang, head of the Jewelry Designers section of the Community of Designers and Yehuda Kassif, art director of the Harry Oppenheimer Museum.

De Beers Canada Joins Voluntary Code of ConductDe Beers Canada has joined the Voluntary Code of Conduct for Authenticating Canadian Diamond Claims. The inclusion

of De Beers, which operates two diamond mines in Canada, into the Code means that all operating diamond mines in Canada are members of the Code. The Code was established in 2002 as a system for tracking Canadian diamonds from mine to consumer. It is endorsed by the Competition Bureau of Canada and the World Jewellery Confederation.

CIBJO To Hold “Ruby Day”CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, began a new tradition at its 2010 congress – the organization of a gemmological mini-conference, this year named “Ruby Day.” This mini-conference will be an integral part of this and future CIBJO congresses. Ruby Day was dedicated to presentations, discussions and research relating to the ruby, and took place on February 19 at the International Congress Centre at the Messe Muenchen. Renowned Italian gemologist Dr. Margherita Superchi, president of the CBIJO

Gemmological Commission, created the Ruby Day initiative, and says her motivation was to ensure that gemologists, jewellers and other industry professionals have an opportunity to disucss recent gemstone research and offer gemological updates at CIBJO congresses. “The pace of events in the jewellery industry is increasing from year to year. While in the past a new gemstone treatment came around every few years or so, it seems that today they are becoming more proliferate,” she says.

ArtCAM Announces New CAD CAM SoftwareArtCAM announces the release of the company’s new CAD CAM software. The company’s range now includes ArtCAM Express, ArtCAM Insignia, ArtCAM Pro, ArtCAM Jewel Smith. This new software allows users to quickly and easily design and manufacture 2D and 3D models, import or create vectors and manufacture 2D or 2.5D products from those vectors, design and manufacture 3D models or 3D sculpted reliefs and design and manufacture highly intricate personalized, custom jewellery or new complete lines.

Jewelers Mutual Offers New Personal Insurance Jewellery consumers and retailers in Canada can breathe a sigh of relief as they can now protect their possessions under Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program. Jewelers Mutual, the only company solely dedicated to insuring jewellery and the jewellery industry, extends their Personal Jewelry Insurance plan to both policy and non-policy holders. The program provides customers with repair and replacement coverage, assures that branded jewellery will be repaired and replaced with the same brand and allows consumers to have their repair or replacement work done by their preferred jeweler. Additional benefits that the Personal Jewelry Insurance policy offers customers are affordable worldwide coverage, an accessible online application, no cost for jewellers to participate and Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Graduate Gemologists on staff to assist jewellers and consumers.

Kimberlight Acquires Rights for Patented Diamond CutKimberlight Brands Inc. has acquired the international rights to market and sell a proprietary, patented diamond cut with 111 facets, designed by Mike Botha of Embee Diamond Technologies, Ltd. “Total brilliance and pretty configuration characterize this cut, one of my proudest accomplishments in a career that spans 40 years,” says Botha. Kimberlight is debuting the diamond through paced, small-lot offers and personal purchasing opportunities.


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Campbell Bridges CommemoratedThree major gem and jewellery organizations commemorated industry icon Campbell Bridges during a memorial ceremony during the American Gem Trade Association Gem Fair (AGTA) in Tucson, February 2-7. Bridges was well-known for his discovery of Tanzanite, his advocacy for improving working conditions and security at mines, and his concern for the environment. The International Colored Gemstone Association, the AGTA and the Gemological Institute of America paid tribute to the late Scottish gemologist at an event at the Marriott University Park Hotel. Bridges was killed during an altercation in Kenya. He is survived by his wife Judith, his son Bruce and daughter Laura.

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Thomas Sabo Brings Wild, Whimsical Collections and Watches For SpringThomas Sabo’s sterling silver Spring/Summer 2010 collection is filled to the brim with a mix of colours, symbols and versatility; all inspired by the idea of an exotic journey. The seasonal line includes pieces characterized by an Under the Sea adventure – including flashy cocktail rings with seaweed-like details and pendants (sharks, deepsea divers and submarines, oh my!) that can be mixed and matched with charm connectors. The Rebel at Heart jewellery evokes a rough-edged “skull ‘n’ bones” attitude mixed with a bit of glam – think black cubic zirconia and sterling silver. The Classic line goes tribal, with lots of turquoise, smoky quartz and feather- and 70s-inspired shapes.

CJ recently reported on the launch of Thomas Sabo’s watch collection in the Canadian market. The watches are now available for purchase – and the three ranges in the collection – Rebel at Heart, It Girl and Classic – offer a sophisticated combination of fashion-forward elements coupled with Thomas Sabo’s style and attention to detail, right down to the watch face, band details and materials used.

PANDORA Opens First Toronto Retail Store; Introduces Layering CollectionsPANDORA has opened its first retail store in downtown Toronto, located in the Royal Bank Plaza underground shopping concourse. The Denmark-based company is known for its customizable charm bracelet and versatile jewellery collections that include more than 3,000 designs. Looking ahead to spring, PANDORA has also created customizable, stackable collections for layering. The Moments collection includes sterling silver and/or leather cord bracelets with PANDORA’s signature gold, silver, glass or eco-friendly wood bead charms; the LovePods collection includes 18K gold rings with precious gemstones; and the Ring Upon Ring collection includes 14K gold and sterling silver rings. The common denominator in these collections is the layering effect, to create an infinite number of unique styles.

Victorinox Swiss Army Opens Whistler Village Pop-Up StoreVictorinox Swiss Army, has opened a brand pop-up store in Whistler Village for the months of February and March. The store

will feature a signature selection from all six Victorinox Swiss Army product categories: cutlery, Swiss Army knives, timepieces, travel gear, fashion and fragrance. The store has been entirely merchandised to reflect the Victorinox Swiss Army brand. The location of the pop-up store is Keir Fine Jewellery, a local retailer that carries Victorinox Swiss Army timepieces and Swiss Army knives, and will be restored to its original state as Keir Fine Jewellery after the Olympics. “Having a presence in Whistler during the Games makes a lot of sense for our brand,” said Victorinox Swiss Army president Rick Taggart. “Victorinox Swiss Army is internationally recognized and our quality products are designed for people who appreciate active lifestyles.”

Swarovski’s Spring BlingWater is a huge symbolic influence in Swarovki’s Spring/Summer 2010 line. This is surely a trend we’ll continue to see more of, due to the basic element’s fluid form, reflective surface, and gleaming qualities – all characteristics that play perfectly into the creative design and functionality of jewellery. Swarovski’s Spring/Summer 2010 line has three variations – Beauty Drops, Marina Blue

and Sea, Light and Fun. Beauty Drops bring water forth in a purifying role, so the pieces in this collection focus on droplet-like crystal cuts and wave-like shapes and movement. The Marina Blue collection is inspired by coral reefs and shells – bright pieces with textures created from red- and blue-coloured crystals. Sea, Light and Fun pieces are just that – playful, and inspired by the creatures of the sea. Pieces like the Elvis and Erika pendants (a crystal-covered crab and water droplet, respectively) and other accessories inspired by beach games characterize this collection.

Swarovski’s also going through the Looking Glass with a line inspired by Tim Burton’s remake of Alice in Wonderland, set to hit theatres in March. In collaboration with Disney, the collection of luxe, limited-edition jewellery includes a Sparrow rose gold necklace – worn by Alice in the film, in fact – as well as other necklaces and bracelets with cupcake, teapot, heart, playing card and Cheshire Cat charms, to name a few – all encrusted with crystals and diamonds. There’s also a White Rabbit pendant, complete with mini pocket watch –the watch doesn’t run, however, so you’ll have to ensure you’re not late for a very important date.

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fortherecord

Precious Metals

stock index

Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $66.470 $55.710 -16.19% $77.320 $50.800 $174.6 135.79 8,718.00

Alamos Gold AGI TSX $12.380 $12.210 -1.37% $14.200 $7.250 $42.7 28.09 1,329.00

Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $43.650 $38.800 -11.11% $47.520 $25.080 $1,140.0 30.47 10,903.00

Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $45.100 $38.310 -15.06% $50.530 $32.690 $2,102.0 N/A 37,657.00

Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $39.840 $33.080 -16.97% $42.690 $15.670 $214.7 26.15 8,417.00

Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $14.250 $14.020 -1.61% $15.890 $8.510 $83.0 29.22 5,610.00

First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $81.590 $90.490 10.91% $100.320 $21.010 $527.5 N/A 7,107.00

Freeport-McMoRan Copper&Gold FCX NYSE $79.870 $76.280 -4.49% $90.550 $21.160 $4,144.0 278.4 31,412.00

Gammon Gold GAM TSX $12.080 $10.100 -16.39% $13.190 $6.150 $52.8 117.78 1,256.00

Gold Fields Ltd. (ADR) GFI NYSE $14.620 $12.320 -15.73% $15.880 $8.100 $948.3 28.48 8,684.00

Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $44.660 $38.820 -13.08% $48.370 $32.360 $696.7 24.11 28,443.00

Harmony Gold Mining Co. (ADR) HMY NYSE $11.120 $9.730 -12.50% $13.250 $8.060 $351.9 67.07 4,145.00

Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $19.240 $15.090 -21.57% $21.950 $7.710 $260.4 109.13 5,553.00

Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $12.550 $16.310 29.96% $18.490 $3.200 $9.5 N/A 6,171.00

Kinross Gold K TSX $21.560 $18.610 -13.68% $25.220 $16.520 $595.2 N/A 12,948.00

Lundin Mining LUN TSX $4.700 $4.520 -3.83% $5.180 $0.690 $192.1 N/A 2,620.00

Newmont Mining NMC TSX $55.000 $47.220 -14.15% $59.600 $42.540 $2,049.0 24.69 21,319.00

Northgate Minerals Corp. NGX TSX $3.460 $3.140 -9.25% $3.700 $1.210 $132.3 21.93 912.00

Pan American Silver PAA TSX $27.250 $23.810 -12.62% $28.730 $16.190 $119.5 N/A 2,077.00

PolyMet Mining Corp. POM TSX $2.610 $3.420 31.03% $3.890 $0.720 $0.1 N/A 476.00

Randgold Resources Ltd. (ADR) GOLD Nasdaq $82.220 $75.130 -8.62% $90.300 $38.321 $103.3 125.89 6,218.00

Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $15.300 $16.930 10.65% $18.410 $6.280 $95.3 39.31 3,908.00

Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $17.150 $15.840 -7.64% $18.360 $7.260 $76.7 93.83 5,405.00

Southern Copper Corp. PCU NYSE $33.610 $30.570 -9.04% $36.980 $12.600 $1,151.8 61.06 25,985.00

Taseko Mines Ltd. TGB AMEX $3.980 $4.800 20.60% $5.650 $0.750 $44.8 22.05 917.00

Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $36.550 $39.740 8.73% $42.780 $3.350 $2,524.0 28.4 23,395.00

Thompson Creek Metals Co. Inc. TCM TSX $12.310 $13.760 11.78% $16.500 $3.480 $126.7 488.67 1,915.00

Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $13.570 $11.290 -16.80% $15.000 $8.370 $336.9 23.96 8,278.00

Anglo American plc AAUKY OTC $21.350 $19.900 -6.79% $23.550 $6.210 $9,292.0 12.47 52,400.00

Azure Resources Corp. AZU TSX-V $0.130 $0.090 -30.77% $0.150 $0.050 $0.0 4.75 8.00

BHP Billiton Ltd. BHP NYSE $75.270 $74.720 -0.73% $82.740 $33.090 N/A 37.04 125,468.00

Diamond Fields Intl. DFI TSX $0.075 $0.070 -6.67% $0.110 $0.025 $0.9 N/A 3.00

Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.310 $0.300 -3.23% $0.395 $0.100 N/A 30.51 23.00

Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.180 $0.190 5.56% $0.250 $0.075 N/A N/A 7.00

Equinox Minerals Ltd. EQN TSX $4.090 $3.650 -10.76% $4.680 $1.180 62.3 97.25 2,572.00

Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $10.190 $10.960 7.56% $13.280 $2.190 $82.4 N/A 839.00

Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $2.370 $2.430 2.53% $3.310 $0.730 $0.0 N/A 154.00

Moydow Mines Intl. Inc. MOY TSX $0.780 $0.850 8.97% $1.000 $0.070 $0.0 N/A 51.00

Peregrine Diamonds Ltd. PGD TSX $1.630 $2.260 38.65% $4.650 $0.460 0.3 N/A 184.00

Rio Tinto plc (ADR) RTP NYSE $207.900 $212.980 2.44% $240.430 $80.460 N/A N/A 53,085.00

Sanatana Diamonds Inc. STA TSX-V $0.100 $0.130 30.00% $0.250 $0.050 N/A N/A 8.00

Shear Minerals Ltd. SRM TSX-V $0.060 $0.095 58.33% $0.120 $0.035 N/A N/A 8.00

Starfield Resources Inc. SRU TSX $0.095 $0.105 10.53% $0.290 $0.085 N/A N/A 35.00

Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.270 $0.590 118.52% $0.730 $0.080 N/A N/A 155.00

True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.090 $0.100 11.11% $0.215 $0.070 N/A N/A 7.00

Vale (ADR) VALE NYSE $28.220 $28.690 1.67% $31.960 $11.820 N/A 49.87 138,573.00

Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.950 $0.960 1.04% $1.800 $0.200 N/A N/A 11.00

Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $31.780 $35.300 11.08% 36..61 $11.000 $381.4 20.52 2,535.00

Sears Canada SCC TSX $23.520 $25.500 8.42% $26.280 $17.050 $1,309.0 13.56 2,744.00

Signet Group SIG NYSE $26.690 $27.430 2.77% $29.070 $5.910 $613.7 N/A 2,677.00

Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $41.510 $41.770 0.63% $47.015 $16.700 $598.2 22.58 5,182.00

Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $52.240 $52.920 1.30% $55.200 $46.250 $99,411.0 15.03 204,103.00

Zale Corp. ZLC NYSE $4.960 $2.510 -49.40% $8.510 $0.890 $329.2 N/A 80.00

Gold COMX $1,095.000

Silver COMX $17.070

Platinum NYME $1,530.700

Palladium COMX $453.700

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

Company Name StockSymbol

Exchange Price12/04/09

Price01/12/10

% Change

52-WeekHigh

52-WeekLow

Last QuarterRevenue ($Millions)

P/ERatio

MarketCap

($Millions)

GeMstones

Jewellers & retailers

coMModities

Toywatch Canada Contributes to Haiti Relief EffortsToywatch Canada and its retailers are donating 30% of their sales of 100 each of four limited-edition watch styles to Doctors Without Borders Canada. It is part of an initiative for relief efforts in Haiti, following the disastrous earthquake there in January. The limited-edition watches – the Neon style, in white, black, dark gray and purple – retail for $300. According to Toywatch, the Canadian government will match all funds contributed by February 12, 2010 to specific organizations.

Argen and Watier Announce Distribution AgreementArgen Corporation of San Diego, California and Watier Findings of Vancouver have announced an agreement that will see Watier Findings buy and distribute gold and platinum metal products. The products will consist of casting grains in 10k, 14k and 18k in white, yellow, green, and russian red, platinum, palladium, as well as 14k and 18k palladium mixes. All products will be distributed out of the Watier offices in Vancouver. Joe Rosen, general manager of Argen’s Jewellery Metals Division, says that he is “excited at the prospect of having another distributor marketing [my] product in Canada, especially one with a strong broad-based clientele and product line, as Watier Findings possesses.” Adds Roland Watier, owner of Watier Findings, “This agreement allows us to pursue seamless distribution of casting alloys, to complement our current product line of over 5,000 items we currently carry.”

NWT Holds Diamond Industry ShowcaseA four-day diamond industry showcase in the Northwest Territories took place February 1-4 at Canada’s Northern House. Top experts were on hand to educate and inform their peers and the public about diamonds, the official gem of the NWT which accounts for more than 50% of the territory’s GDP. The NWT is the third largest producer of rough cut diamonds in the world, and has the world’s first government-sponsored diamond certification program, allowing NWT diamonds to be tracked from mine to retailer. [CJ]

024-028.CJ_FTR_re1.indd 29 2/11/10 1:40:35 PM


New Gold Revises 2010 Outlook New Gold Inc. has increased its 2010 outlook by approximately 10%-20% amid “better-than-expected” fourth quarter results. The intermediate gold producer with operating assets in the U.S., Mexico and Australia, and development projects in Canada and Chile, increased production by 41% in the fourth quarter and set a new annual gold production record, the company announced in January. New Gold Inc. exceeded its 2009 production estimate of 270,000 ounces to produce 300,000 ounces, and has revised its 2010 production forecast. It estimates it will produce 360,000 ounces of gold in 2010.

Alberta Securities Commission Rules After Gold-Quest Scheme The Canadian victims of Gold-Quest International Corp. are one step closer to justice after the Alberta Securities Commission ruled the company illegally distributed securities in Alberta. The ASC said Gold-Quest ran “both a classic Ponzi scheme and a classic pyramid scheme.” Approximately 2,940 investors in Canada and abroad were bilked of US$29-million, including 412 people in Alberta who lost about US$2-million. The ASC hearing panel found that personnel of Gold-Quest lured investors with the promise of 87.5% returns from foreign currency trading and

monetary incentives if they managed to recruit new investors. The firm operated from June 2006 until the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission shut it down in May 2008.

Century Mining to Reopen Val d’Or SiteCentury Mining is set to reopen its Lamaque gold project in Val d’Or, QC The Canadian gold producer plans to spend over $100-million over the length of the project, will create over 250 new jobs and commit a significant investment in the historic mining town. The company plans to turn on the power at the site in late January, re-open the underground in February and begin the stockpiling of ore in March, all while upgrading the crusher facilities at the Val d’Or site. Century Mining expects to produce approximately 45,000 ounces of gold in 2010 and is expected to reach commercial production in 2011 with an output of approximately 60,000 ounces a year.

Canadian Mining at Bullard Pass Canadian Mining Company Inc. has been given the green light to move forward with development at its Bullard Pass Gold Project in Yavapai County, Arizona. Following a detailed qualification process, the exploration and development company has received the necessary permits from the Arizona State Land Department and the United States Department of the Interior Bureau of Land Management.

Barrick Sues Goldcorp The struggle between Goldcorp Inc. and Barrick Gold Corporation for ownership of the El Morro mining project in Chile has reached the boiling point. Barrick Gold, the country’s largest mining company, has filed a lawsuit in Ontario’s Superior Court against industry rival Goldcorp. Barrick Gold has accused Goldcorp of engineering an illegal bid. The lawsuit continues to allege that Goldcorp entered into a scheme with New Gold Inc. to block Barrick’s $465-million bid, a breach of the El Morro shareholders agreement. Goldcorp and New Gold Inc. have denied the allegations.

BC Provincial Government To Halt Flathead Valley ExplorationBC Lieutenant-Governor Steven L. Point announced in his Throne Speech of Feb. 9, 2010 that the province of British Columbia intends to enter a partnership with the state of Montana regarding the Flathead River Basin in Southeastern BC. This means that all ongoing mineral exploration work in BC’s Flathead Valley will be halted, and any further mine development or exploration will not be permitted. This affects Max Resource Corp. and the Company’s current Crowsnest gold project, located in the Flathead Valley watershed. “We are surprised and disappointed by the Government’s action,” said Stuart Rogers, President of Max, “given our outstanding exploration results at Crowsnest in 2009. And we will seek adequate compensation.” According to a statement, the Company will resume its focus on gold in Nevada, where drill permitting on three gold exploration projects is already underway.

Mining at Max Resource Corp.’s Crowsnest gold project

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miningnews

Canadian Mines Make Top 100 List A ranking of the world’s 100 largest mining companies has been released and 16 Canadian companies made the list. The list was compiled by Miniweb, a web-based international mining publication. The rankings, which are based on market value, include:Rank Company Name Value USD bn6 Suncor 58.158 Barrick Gold 40.9811 PotashCorp 36.3112 Goldcorp 31.1320 Teck Resources 23.6833 Kinross Gold 14.3434 Canadian Oil Sands 14.1940 Cameco 12.5146 Agrium 10.9058 Yamana Gold 9.3259 Agnico-Eagle Mines 9.3264 Eldorado Gold 8.0868 Ivanhoe Mines 7.3370 First Quantum 7.2082 IamGold 6.2986 Silver Wheaton 5.97

Kodiak Exploration to Continue Mining at Milestone After a very fruitful first pass that identified a large, potentially bulk-minable gold deposit, Kodiak Exploration Ltd. has announced plans to begin drilling at its Milestone property in the Beardmore-Geraldton gold camp in Western Ontario. The Vancouver-based resource exploration company is expected to commence its follow-up 4,000-metre diamond drilling program at the end of January and continue on through March. Past results and analysis of geophysical data indicate a significant gold system for the Milestone property.

Tiomin Resources to Acquire Vaaldiam Resources The wheels are in motion for Tiomin Resources Inc. to acquire all outstanding shares of the Canadian-based diamond mining and exploration company Vaaldiam Resources Ltd. The two companies entered into a definitive arrangement agreement that will see Vaaldiam become a wholly-owned subsidiary of Tiomin Resources. Tiomin is offering Vaaldiam 0.80 of a Tiomin common share for each share of Vaaldiam, which

will give Vaaldiam’s existing shareholders approximately 30% of Tiomin’s stock. Tiomin Inc. is a Canada-based mining company with operating assets in Brazil, Kenya and Peru, with a focus on the exploration and development of base metals, precious metals, diamonds and titanium mineral sands.

Stroud Announces Grant of Stock OptionsStroud Resources Ltd. has announced, subject to acceptance by the TSX Venture Exchange, that it has granted options to acquire an aggregate of 3,100,000 common shares to directors and officers of the Company under Stroud’s stock option plan. Each option is exercisable to acquire one common share at a price of $0.10 per share for a three-year period. Stroud, a debt-free exploration company focused on discovery and exploration of silver and gold deposits in Mexico and Ontario, owns a 100% interest in the Santo Domingo epithermal silver-gold project in central Mexico. Stroud’s assets also include 100% interests in the Hislop gold property, near Timmins, ON, and the Leckie gold property, near North Bay, ON.

Vale’s Goro Nickel Operation DelayedAccording to a Vale company official, the processing plant at the Company’s Goro nickel operation in New Caledonia is undergoing tests and is not yet in production. The plant had been expected to start operating in January. The launch of Goro has been delayed several times due to environmental opposition, operational costs and a drop in nickel demand since 2008. Vale acquired the Goro project when it bought Canadian nickel miner Inco in 2006.

Greystar Files Successful EIA for Angostura ProjectVancouver’s Greystar Resources has successfully filed an environmental impact assessment (EIA) with the Ministry of the Environment, Housing and Territorial Development in Columbia. The EIA was accepted for review in mid-January. This is the first step in the environmental permitting process for the development of Greystar’s Angostura gold/silver project. The Ministry will then assemble a review team and request input from the regional environmental

authority. The entire process could take between nine and 12 months. Greystar has also submitted an application for a work and investment plan (PTO) based on the Company’s prefeasibility study completed in March 2009. According to the study, the Angostura mine could produce an average of 511,000oz/y of gold and 2.3-millionoz/y of silver over 15 years.

Canadian Shield Appoints New Director; Expands TeamCanadian Shield Resources Inc. has announced that Fernando Pickmann has been appointed to the Board of Directors. Further, the Company has also announced the expansion of the exploration team in Lima, Peru. Pickmann is a practicing lawyer based in Lima, and brings more than 15 years of commercial and mining law experience to the Company, and a combination of corporate experience in both the Peruvian and Canadian mining industries. Said Canadian Shield president Keith Laskowski, “We are very fortunate and excited to have Mr. Pickmann join our team, and I look forward to his contributions as we take our Peruvian program forward.” The Company has also added two geologists to the Canadian Shield local Peruvian team to work on the Regional Andean Gold exploration program.

Romios Closes Private PlacementRomios Gold Resources Inc. has announced that the Company has closed the final piece of the private placement of 250,000 working capital units, further to the Company’s press release of December 31, 2009. The Company currently has 101,717,479 common shares issued and outstanding.

Construction at Mt. Milligan Gets Green Light The board of directors of Vancouver-based Canadian mineral development and exploration company Terrane Metals Corp. have approved a decision to begin construction on the company’s Mt. Milligan copper-gold project. This move follows the expiration of Goldcorp Inc.’s one-time option to convert equity interest in Terrane into a joint venture between the two companies. Goldcorp Inc. has guaranteed Terrane Metals Corp. a $40-million credit facility, which has been extended to May 7, 2010. [CJ]

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crimereport

After a recent JVC board meeting, a couple of JVC directors came up with the idea of bringing a JVC crime prevention seminar, similar to the two successful ones in Toronto and Vancouver, to a smaller community. We would involve local police, and provide experts to speak on crime affecting jewellers, including credit card fraud and robberies. This would be free to all industry members and staff. We would hold it on a Sunday if that would assist in getting staff to attend. A well-known director in a smaller community volunteered to gauge the interest of a few jewellers. We were excited. At the next JVC directors meeting, however, it was reported that the retailers we asked showed no interest whatsoever. They felt they knew how to handle their businesses and did not want to pay their staff to attend a seminar. The level of apathy stunned us. Ron Hooper of Hooper’s Jewellers in Bowmanville, ON, (and a long-time JVC director), read the report in the minutes of the meeting. The staff at Hooper’s Jewellers were victims of a traumatic violent crime in 2008. Here is their story. — Phyllis Richard

By Ron HoopeR

My company has been in business for 65 years, and has never encountered anything so violent as what we experienced. I would like to say, however, that we very much value and

endorse the JVC and its Crime Prevention Program. There are things all jewellers should be updating their staff on from time to time, if even as a plain refresher session. Every employee should know what to do in a breach of security incident (such as a robbery) so that the most effective method of apprehension by the proper authorities can be conducted.

In our case, an attempted armed robbery took place. Let me set the scene: two staff were present on the sales floor, while a client was still in the store. Three very nervous individuals we had never seen before entered the store. One of the staff, being a bit apprehensive, alerted my brother, who was in the workshop, advising him to come to the sales floor immediately. He pretended to be adjusting a grandfather clock just to be present. Three people were now on the floor, and the client left the store. Two of the individuals (the suspects) asked to look at engagement rings.

One staff member, my daughter, proceeded to show the rings, and suddenly, one of the individuals leaped over the counter, pulling a large bladed knife from under his belt, forcing my daughter to the ground behind the counter. The other individual, also armed with a knife, chased my other employee to the back room office area. Somewhere in that incident, one of my employees, an aspiring goldsmith, was slashed with a knife, causing severe damage to her hand and impacting her ability to return to work. She now suffers from posttraumatic stress disorder.

The other individual confronted my brother, who feared for his life, and the safety of the two girls. He struggled by throwing anything he could get his hands on at the robber: display cases, a large grandfather clock. At that

point, I interrupted the attempt, and one of the individuals lunged at me with a knife. All three determined that things were going wrong and chased me down the street. I was able to use a cell phone while running to phone the police, who were able to apprehend two out of the three, and, due to their great detective work, subsequently apprehended the third. We later found out that all three involved in the attempted robbery were seasoned criminals. The effects of their actions will last a lifetime; not only have they ruined one person’s life, but they have also changed the perspective of three others, who question motives every time the front door opens.

To my fellow colleagues in the industry, here are some points to consider:

• Make certain you have security cameras in all areas of the workplace and, if possible, outside the premises.

• Have a store “safe code,” a word that everyone on staff is aware of and when to use it.

• If you have a back entrance, utilize a peephole or external security screen before allowing anyone to enter.

• Make certain your panic buttons are accessible, and not obvious• Invest in personal alarm buttons – it can even be worn as a piece

of jewellery – and don’t be afraid to use it.• Most importantly do what robbers ask of you, and pay close attention

to any details of the situation: height, hair colour, clothing, vehicles, etc.

A robbery is the most traumatic thing that anyone can experience. This business is our life. Every day I come to work and walk through the front door, I still have flashbacks. The three criminals were eventually charged with six counts of robbery, one of them for another jewellery store robbery. Some may say that we are one of the lucky ones, but it can happen to anyone. [CJ]

This is a True Story

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Of all the business models for running a retail jewellery operation, the “second-floor” formula is among the hardest to implement, but carries potential rewards that are the envy of the industry: no tire kicker walk-

ins, just appointment-only clients, 90% of which purchase something; less likelihood of smash-and-grabs and break-ins, so fewer security requirements and a better break on insurance rates and terms; flexible hours; more exclusive clientele; fewer staffers and less administrative and POP costs. John de Jong, a successful practitioner of this model who divides his time between Toronto and Lausanne, Switzerland, agreed to give us a glimpse into the rarefied world of the non-storefront retail enterprise, and the first thing you learn from him is that networking is the key.

John de Jong reveals some of the secrets of success in “second-floor” retailing.

By Carol Besler

PhotograPhy By DaviDe Bagnarol

Exclusive Enterprise

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coverstory




“Initially it was purely social,” says de Jong when asked how he procures clients. “I was very fortunate to have family friends who liked what I did and wanted to buy from me. The business was launched at an event in the Muskokas. My parents held an exhibit/cocktail party at our cottage on Lake Joseph, and I showed my first collection to about 120 people. It all started at that party really – I sold most of the collection that day. Word got out, and a few of my first clients became collectors and still are today. They in turn introduce their friends to my work.”

Most retailers rely on walk-ins, an advantage de Jong doesn’t enjoy, hence the need to solicit clients by other means. He admits, “I am sure we would have more business [if we had walk-ins], but there is a peace of mind and ease in working the way we do. I like the privacy, and to be honest, it was the only option when I started out. I wanted a key location

but the cost of a Bloor Street space was not feasible.” Still, the customers who visit de Jong’s office/showroom by appointment tend to be more qualified customers. “I would say 90% of people who come in to my showroom buy and 90% of those become or are repeat clientele,” says de Jong. “One-time purchasers are rare for us. We develop a relationship with our clients.”

De Jong founded his business in Lausanne, where his family, a close knit group, has a home. He met with clients in his home office. A year later, he established a showroom in an office building at the corner of Bloor and Bay streets in Toronto, which functions like a salon, decorated to evoke the quiet, welcoming ambience of a private home. De Jong’s showroom manager of 10 years, Nathalie Castillo, holds the fort when de Jong is in Lausanne, which is, depending on the year, about half the time. Three part-time staff also help out.

Cocholong and pink opal cuff and cocholong and turquoise cuff. Turquoise, pink ceramic gold and diamond rings.



coverstory

The mainstay of de Jong’s marketing efforts, aside from a spectacular annual calendar and a tantalizing web site, take the form of events. There is an annual open house at the grand Palace Hotel & Spa in Lausanne, where de Jong presents his latest collection, and an event in the Toronto showroom every November. This year, de Jong is doing a show at a private club in the Bahamas, hosted by a friend, and, in Toronto, he’ll host a spectactular party to celebrate his 15th anniversary. He’ll make 15 one-of-a-kind pieces to celebrate each year in business; each will be exhibited in its own showcase. For de Jong, it’s all about connections. “Each event brings business, and we always find this is the best way to introduce my work to new clients. It can be intimidating to go to the fourth floor [at Bloor Street] and ring a bell to see jewels,” he says. “This way, a new visitor gets to meet me and my staff and see my work and the space in a stress-free way. It’s an easy way to visit us for the first time.”

Family has been an important influence on de Jong. His grandfather was an executive at Henry Birks & Sons for some 40 years, at one time managing the flagship store in Montreal and also the store in Hamilton. “We [de Jong and his four sisters] visited the stores a lot,” he says. “There were a lot of Birks boxes in our house.” At the age of 13, he started

designing jewellery, first sketching the designs of others that he admired, and then, later, developing his own style. “When my family moved to Switzerland in 1981, I was suddenly surrounded by the great jewellery houses in Geneva and Gstaad, where we spent a lot of time – I could see all their work walking through town. Switzerland is a jewellery centre, and that really inspired me. I was an avid designer, and kept up on all the news in the industry and went to all the exhibitions.”

His first step into the field on a practical level was when, at the age of 21, he spent a summer in Florence, taking a jewellery-making course. “I already had a keen interest in design and had been designing for some time, but this was the first hands-on experience. I loved the course and was really influenced by the architecture of the city – I still am to some degree.”

After graduating from Boston College in 1990 with a BA in Art History, de Jong started working on the sales floor for Tiffany and Co. in Toronto. He was one of the original staff that opened the store, alongside Andrea Hopson and Sharifa Chivers. “It was a great experience,” he says. [It was Hopson who recommended de Jong for this issue’s cover story].

The salon is decorated to evoke the quiet, welcoming ambience of a private home.


De Jong left Tiffany to go back to Europe in 1992, where he interviewed with both Piaget and Christie’s. “It was a hard time for the industry, and I did not land the job I wanted, so I decided to study gemmology in California at the Gemological Institute of America.” Earning his Graduate Gemologist degree was “a terrific experience and I loved the course,” he says. “I even stayed on to do the jewellery design course too, which was my main focus.”

A few months later he took an Undertsanding Jewellery course with Amanda Triossi at Sotheby’s in London. “ She was great, and really gave a hands-on and practical approach to looking at estate and modern jewellery. We had access to some of the most interesting workshops in London and met with all the big names on Bond Street. We are still in touch after all this time, and chat about jewellery business quite often when I see her. She is now the curator of the Bulgari collection in Rome.”

Although word-of-mouth business is essential to de Jong’s business, he has also advertised, especially at the beginning, including to broad markets in The Globe and Mail and to a more focused audience in Town

and Country. “Once, a woman from Connecticut saw my ad in Town and Country and bought a pair of rose-cut diamond earrings for her wedding, sight unseen”. He cites the Internet as another great tool that has transformed his business. “I have made sales to clients who, rather than come in to the showroom, will see a pic online and buy the piece on that basis.”

Although JdJ serves an international clientele, the client list in Canada is growing. Canadians, while they have high quality standards, have always been very conservative when it comes to design, but that, says de Jong, is changing. “Canadians’ taste in jewellery has changed dramatically over the past 10 years, partly because of the Internet I think, and the growing number of jewellery web sites, such as firstwaternews.com, which have encouraged people to become more committed to trends.” This is good for de Jong, whose design aesthetic is based on two pillars that make his pieces anything but conservative: colour and scale. “I have always done a lot of colour on colour, and people would say ‘where are the diamonds?’ Scale and colour are very acceptable in Europe, and now that has come to Canada,” he says.


“Running your own business can be insular,” says de Jong. “Especially if you’re on the fourth floor.”


coverstory

De Jong reflects on the rewards of working in his own, non-storefront business – “Freedom! Quality time with family and friends, travel, and the satisfaction of building the business on my own” – but admits there are also drawbacks. “I’m responsible for running the business, and I wear a lot of hats, so any mistakes have been mine and mine alone. Also, because of the nature of my business, clients like to see me when they visit us, so sometimes I can feel stretched.”

If he were starting a new business today, de Jong says he would have chosen a mentor. “I would have a lunch with maybe 10 people in the industry and choose someone who is the best fit and ask them to mentor me through my first three years of business,” he says. “It’s good to have a second pair of eyes, someone else who can have a pulse on the business without being a financial partner. Running your own business can be insular, especially if you’re on the fourth floor.”

Will he sell the business at some point? “I think the business will die with me,” says de Jong. “I am not a global brand that is carried in retail stores. It’s just me.” Not surprisingly, however, he thinks of it in terms of family enterprise. Maybe I would sell it to my niece for a dollar,” he laughs. She is 14 going on 35; she has a lot of style and she loves jewellery.” [CJ]


Sevilla hardstone, wood, blackjade, cocholong, turquoise and diamond bangles

Cufflinks from the Seville collection in magnesite, white agate, lapis, onyx, gold and silver



Pearl sources may change, but their allure is enduring. by sarah b. hood

Undimmed

Alone among precious gems, the lustrous pearl is a creation of a living organism. Though renewable, it is also uniquely susceptible to disease, pollution and weather. The notable example is, of

course, the Japanese akoya, foremost among cultured pearls until the industry was reduced by blight. Now the akoya is returning, but with the increase in Chinese freshwater pearl production and growing interest in Tahitian and South Sea pearls, prices are in flux. In an atmosphere further complicated by recession, will Canadian retailers be able to sell pearls over the coming months, and if so, at what price point?

RadianceHand-fabricated 18k yellow and green gold pendant with a 19-carat prehnite surrounded by green demantoid garnets (0.65tcw), on a strand of South Sea pearls. Llyn Strelau, Jewels by Design.

productfocus

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cjFebMar10_ButterflyGems_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 3:25:31 PM


“With all the difficulties we have heard about in the past, the Japanese are still the dominant player in akoya,” says Pierre Akkelian, President of Canadian Gem in Montreal. “Even though the production is much reduced from the all-time high, there is still no significant quality coming from China.”

Akkelien cites reports that world pearl production has risen significantly over the past 16 years, but prices have dropped. “Pearl farms in 1993 produced about $800-million worth of raw material. In 1999, that value had dropped to $500-million, and in 2009 it was down to $370-million,” he says. Nonetheless, “In 1996, Tahiti produced five tonnes of pearls; in 2009, they produced 12.5 tonnes. For South Sea pearls, production in 1996 was 2.4 tonnes, and in 2009 it was 12.5 tonnes.”

Production in Japanese pearl farms has dropped by about 50% by quantity and 90% by value over the same period. “For the Japanese akoya specifically, in 1999, $600-million worth of pearls was produced, but 2009 figures are about $60-million.”

But Japanese akoya production is improving. “You can finally buy decent quality akoya pearls again,” says Llyn Strelau, owner and designer for Jewels by Design in Calgary. “And the latest I’ve seen are coming from Vietnam; only a couple of dealers deal with them: they are pink and creamy and grey-blue in mixed strands.”

Meanwhile, Chinese freshwater pearls continue to improve, to the extent that Joel Goldberg of Lou Goldberg Jewellers in Montreal warns colleagues to be on guard because, he says, “I’ve been hearing of cases where some of the better quality freshwaters were mixed amongst the akoyas.”

“For the Canadian jeweller, prices dropped last year on the lower value goods; like diamonds, the price took a dip because of the demand. Some people were selling for perhaps 40% less, but the more expensive goods didn’t take as much of a hit,” Akkelien says. “Now, in almost every category, they’re almost approaching the prices of three years ago. We have an advantage as Canadians because our dollar has appreciated

in value. From the perspective of fashion or value, pearls are still the ultimate bang for the dollar.”

“It’s a funny time in the market because the recession came on so fast that you had pearl cultivators who were expecting happier times and who had all this inventory, both freshwater and akoya. A lot of people had to sell off their inventory, so prices went down pretty steeply on Chinese product,” says Robin Gambhir, President of Gambhir’s Imports. “People are sitting on goods that they can’t sell because the market price is below cost. I’ve told retailers to buy now; it’s not going to get any cheaper than this. I see prices going back up to where they were before the recession maybe in 18 months, but I think everybody in the supply chain has readjusted to lower retail sales.”

“I’ve discounted some strands I’ve had for a long time just to get them out of the shop,” says Strelau. “You can replace them for less than you paid for them. But I have a couple of strands that I’ll never discount because they’re just too good, and they’ll eventually find a buyer.”

For consumers, who may not be very knowledgeable about recent price changes, pearls are very fashionable right now, whether it’s the classic Audrey Hepburn necklace or an art piece with coloured pearls. “Fashion-wise, we’ve been very lucky; everywhere I look in advertising or film, I see pearls. Michelle Obama is always wearing pearls now; in Sex and the City, star Sarah Jessica Parker is wearing pearls throughout the film,” Akkelien says.

19k white gold, ring with South Sea button pearl, 28 channel-set princess cut sapphires and round brilliant cut diamonds. Llyn Strelau, Jewels by Design

“‘I’ve discounted some strands I’ve had for a long time just to get them out

of the shop,’ says Strelau.”


productfocus

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 0 1 0 CJ 43

For Cecile Quirron of Melissa Pearl in Montreal, the selling points of the moment are value and variety. “Gold is so expensive that I think pearls and coloured stones are the thing to o� er to the customer because they have something to o� er for the same price. It’s bad for jewellers that gold is so expensive; you have to � nd something else to put in the display case. It’s an advantage for pearls,” she says. “You have so many choices in pearls: multicoloured, golden, black, grey, white, pink – you can have 10 di� erent stores on the street and no one will have the same pearls.”

“� e fashion industry has toned down; in bad economic times, it’s considered in bad taste to � aunt wealth,” comments Gambhir. “A� er a recession people go overboard in the other direction, but this recession has been so deep and so long and has a� ected so many people that it may take a couple of years before we see a real recovery.”

Nonetheless, he does see trends in favour of chocolate or blue-and-silver pearls. “In coloured, white, brown and mixed colours, there’s activity in the larger sizes when they’re very round and very clean,” he says. “� e only way to make a proper margin on these things is to take a strand or a couple of beads and add value to it by putting it into a design.”

“I haven’t sold a strand of basic white pearls for a long time, but I have sold freshwater or Tahitian pearls that are either black or multicoloured,” says Strelau, who adds value by creating necklaces with a German “InterCHANGE” clasp that can link to di� erent pendant pieces. “If you sell a $10,000 or $30,000 pearl strand that you can only wear one way, it’s hard to justify the price, but if you have something that you can wear in several di� erent ways, people are excited by it because they can keep adding to it.”

Strelau also spends time matching the right pearls to a customer’s complexion. “Every woman looks better in di� erent colours of pearl, and that’s why you have to have a variety,” he says. “When I have a pearl supplier in town, I o� en invite a small group to a little party.” Also, “a lot of wedding dresses aren’t white any more, so Chinese freshwater pearls are useful in � nding wedding jewellery that complements the gown,” he adds, “but don’t buy promotional quality freshwater pearls, because you’re going to live and die with them unless they sell quickly.”

Other retailers are using a variety of selling strategies to interest their clients in pearls, including prime placement in the shop. “If you walk through our door, the � rst thing you would see in our front counter is about a dozen di� erent sizes and shapes of South Sea pearls,” says Goldberg. “A strand of pearls is the most basic thing that a woman can have in her jewellery wardrobe. If she wants to dress up or dress down, she is never inappropriately accoutred wearing a strand of pearls.”

“Jewellers are missing an opportunity if they don’t look at the pearl category,” says Akkelien. “I’m very confident for the future of the pearl industry, because every fashionable woman is wearing pearls right now.” [CJ]

White South Sea cultured Pearl Baroque strand and white South Sea Keshi Pearl earrings with diamonds. Canadian Gem.

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Canadian Jeweller (CJ): The Diamond Bourse of Canada (DBC) has been a long time coming. Tell us about the process and how/why you became involved.

Bhushan Vora (BV): The process started about three years ago. I am the president of the Diamond Manufacturers Association of Canada. Under the umbrella of the DMAC, I did a couple of presentations to the Ontario government bringing awareness of mining and other elements of the diamond and jewellery industry. This got the ball rolling and one day I heard back from the Ontario government showing keen interest in our sector. The lead person at the time was Robert Merwin with whom I shared a lot of information. We traveled to Israel together to see the bourses there. After seeing how they work around the world, we felt that it was time for Canada. The key to this was all the countries that had mines, manufacturing and trade had bourses except Canada. This was the key segment missing in the chain from mining to the consumers. With the help of the CJA and the use of their offices, we began to move the process forward; our first meeting was held in their boardroom with about 30 people. In conjunction with the Ontario government we started doing a feasibility study and town hall meetings to see how interested the industry was in getting a bourse. The response was overwhelming and the consensus was to

open a bourse in Toronto, as it’s the hub of the industry. To move this further we need funding from the industry that would be matched by the Ontario government. We got some industry leaders and other interested individuals to sign up and become the first founding members [there are 14] of the bourse. We divided the work and got underway to find a location and put all the necessary elements in place. The key reason for my involvement in this project was to give something back to an industry which has given me so much. Our products turn into cherished mementos in every family’s heritage. I would like to see the same happen with this bourse.

CJ: What will the organization bring to the Canadian jewellery industry?

BV: The DBC will bring the industry together to have a voice in the Canadian market. DBC will make sure that the jewellery industry benefits from the information it can provide to the industry. Apart from the services provided by our organization, we will also bring more trade within our vast country. The DBC will bring all the participants from governments and international trade together to bring more vibrancy to the jewellery industry. The DBC under one roof will have more elements than any other association in Canada.

New BeginningsAn interview with Bhushan Vora, the Chairman of the Board of the

newly established (and long awaited) Diamond Bourse of Canada to discuss what it means for the industry and our global reputation.

By Paul aguirre

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specialfeature


CJ: What impact will this have on an international level? For our industry’s international profile?

BV: The DBC has already been associating with the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and taken their guidance in forming the bourse here in Canada. The international markets all are aware of the value of the bourse and will bring more credibility to the industry in the international market. We will be looking to get more defined statistics on our industry which will help in forecasting trends and help international trade.

CJ: Is the Bourse only going to sell/offer exclusively Canadian product? Why is buying Canadian so important in today’s economic climate?

BV: The bourse is going sell and offer all kinds of products that the Canadian market will bear and the international market will love. Our members have some of the best Canadian and non-Canadian products to sell. The Canadian market is just as vibrant as the Asian market. We manufacture some of the best products in the world and have the best artisans working here. We need to create a mind set in all our consumers to buy Canadian. One way of getting the consumers’ confidence up in our products is the support by the Northwest Territories and Ontario governments by creating certificate of origin of the diamonds that comes out of our mines. This will entail better business within Canada and attract more overseas buyers as the word gets out of the quality of work we produce.

CJ: How does our Bourse compare to similar organizations throughout the world? What do you plan on doing to propagate the Bourse’s reputation and is it your goal to be affiliated with the other bourses?

BV: This bourse is very comparable to the other bourses around the world but with a “Canadian twist.” Once we are operational and we start providing the services and attract international buyers, it will automatically build our reputation. I have yet to find someone who visits Canada and isn’t totally impressed by its people and the infrastructure we have here. Our multicultural and mosaic society is unique. We plan to show how well the industry in Canada works together in competing with the world markets, and we definitely would like to be associated with the other bourses around the world so that we may have more opportunities with other countries.

CJ: What services will the Bourse offer and how long will it take to phase them in?

BV: The Bourse will offer many services, like a bonded warehouse, technology center, shipping services, pick-up windows for GIA, safety deposit lockers, forex services, tenders in polish and rough diamonds and seminars and guidance on industry-related topics. We will also sell

products related to the diamond trade. I think some of the services are ready to go as soon as we open, and I would say within a period of a few months we will be providing all these services. We will also add more services as the need arises.

CJ: What are the membership requirements/parameters? What is the fee schedule like or is it assessed individually?

BV: The membership requirements are pretty straightforward. Once a person applies we do a thorough check on their background. We review that they are a Canadian corporation and have been operating for a minimum of three years in Canada. These are the two most important elements. The fee schedule for the first year is $1,500 for a member. There are other levels of memberships in case a person does not want to be a full member.

CJ: Are you able to share membership enrolment numbers thus far? How has the response been from the industry?

BV: At this time, it’s a work in progress. There is a lot of interest for the opening and to see the actual location and how our process works. Once this happens, I anticipate the response booming and membership taking off.

CJ: What is the government’s involvement with the bourse?

BV: The government’s interest in the bourse is only to see it succeed as we have more mines coming on board. We are a completely independent body to operate as we like. We feel the government plays a vital role in our success, and the input we get from their experience is very crucial to our operation.

CJ: What is your view of the future of our industry? What should retailers be aware of now more than ever?

BV: The future of the industry is very bright as long as we stay on top of the changes taking place around the world. Retailers should be aware of the fact that mining, diamonds cutting methods, manufacturing processes and the consumers themselves are all evolving very fast. The credit is tight. The banks are viewing our borrowing and business practices closely. The retailer really needs to come in conjunction with the bigger picture and go after the marketing of jewellery in a way that the consumer starts to think of jewellery as an asset that can be enjoyed. The retailer needs to push the supply chain for more marketing of its jewellery so they don’t lose out to other luxury goods or electronic items. [CJ]

The Diamond Bourse of Canada is located at 20 Richmond St. East, Suite 302, in Toronto. Contact the Bourse at 416-663-3262, or toll free at 1-888-963-3262.

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Classic styles and foundational collections dominate SIHH in Geneva.BY CAROL BESLER

Rolling with the Times

A piece from the Vacheron Metiers D’Art collection demonstrating the art of Japanese Maki-e lacquering technique.


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The introduction of exceptional models in iconic collections prevailed at the twentieth anniversary edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva this year.

Following a year of heavy losses for the watch industry, the Richemont brands and other high-end exhibitors at the SIHH responded to current market conditions by emphasizing their expertise as manufacture watchmakers, producing in-house calibres for bread-and-butter lines, as well as a few exceptional pieces in limited editions.

Cartier’s premier launch, the Calibre de Cartier, represents the brand’s renewed endeavor to redefine itself as primarily a men’s watch brand by producing in-house calibres and men’s-only styles. Calibre contains the brand’s first in-house automatic movement, calibre 1904mc, with a double-barrel mainspring and a 48-hour power reserve. Two complicated versions of the Calibre, a tourbillon and a jumping hour, were introduced in limited editions. Cartier has attempted in the past to introduce collections intended strictly for the men’s market, only to have them appropriated by women. The Pasha is a case in point. Originally introduced as a men’s watch, it quickly became Cartier’s best-selling ladies’ watch. Cartier also introduced a new ladies’ watch this year: the Captive, with a diamond-set bezel and a unique lug attachment that takes the form of a cut-out in the dial at the 12 o’clock position.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab2, with world’s most complex chronograph movement.

Montblanc TimeWalker Dual Carbon, with a case that is harder than the usual DLC (Diamond Like Carbon).


Many other brands beefed up their iconic collections. IWC’s reintroduction of its Portuguese line, for example, included everything from a hand-wound steel automatic with hacking seconds to a Portuguese Grande Complication in a limited edition of 50 pieces in red gold.

Lange and Söhne made a statement in its iconic Lange One line by introducing the Lange One Daymatic with a new automatic in-house

calibre. This is the first automatic movement for the Lange One, which was introduced in 1994, and is sure to become a collector’s item.

Audemars Piguet introduced several new versions of its iconic Royal Oak collection, including an Offshore Diver, an Offshore chronograph, a tourbillon chronograph, a Royal Oak Equation of Time and an Offshore Grand Prix collection.

Girard Perregaux introduced a palladium version of its classic 1966, with a full calendar movement in a limited edition of 199 pieces. “It has the functions and the style of a great iconic classic,” says Valérie Oppliger of GP, who points out that a “beautiful GP full calendar watch is mentioned on the first page of the Ian Fleming novel From Russia With Love.

Vacheron Constantin thrilled collectors with an equation of time/perpetual calendar version of the Patrimony Traditionnelle. The 14-day power reserve for this automatic movement is achieved with four mainspring barrels. The case is platinum, and the band is stitched with platinum silk thread.

Thin is in this year, when it comes to movements. Piaget introduced an automatic calibre version of its famously slim (2.30mm) 12P hand wound movement. The automatic 1200P is 2.35mm thick, making it the world’s thinnest automatic movement. It is cased in the Altiplano collection.

Sakura, with a Japanese lacquer dial from the Extraordinary Lacquer collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.

“Lange and Piaget both introduced automatic

versions of iconic movements.”



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Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced four new in-house movements this year, including the Master Compressor Extreme Lab Chronograph calibre 780 the world’s most complex chronograph, with 569 components. It drives a radial power reserve indicator located on the flange or inner bezel, a digital minute counter that looks like an analog indicator, and a single pusher that operates two functions (winding and second time zone). The watch is also something of a marvel because of its use of unconventional materials: it has a silicon hairspring, aluminum (non-magnetic) hands, and a titanium/vanadium case.

Panerai also introduced a new case material this year, a composite aluminum/ceramic that is highly resistant to scratches and temperature changes and is used in its Radiomir Marina Militare line, with a Panerai calibre P.2002/7. It is an eight-day, hand-wound movement. Montblanc also entered the realm of new materials with a dual-carbon treated case, used for its TimeWalker Dual Carbon series. It is finished with a special thermal carbon treatment in addition to the standard DLC (diamond-like carbon) finish.

Metiers D’Art, the traditional artisanal crafts that go into the finishing of a high end watch, such as marquetry, enamelling, engraving and gem setting, were also on full display at SIHH. Both Van Cleef and Arpels and Vacheron Constantin introduced collections with Japanese lacquered dials. Each brand, in fact, hosted craftsmen who travelled from Tokyo to the fair to demonstrate the ancient techniques of Japanese lacquering. Van Cleef introduced three boxed sets of enamel-dial watches: California Dreaming celebrates the brand’s 70th anniversary in the United States with scenes of California rendered in marquetry, enamel, engraving and gem setting; a set of five watches with dials depicting different varieties of hummingbirds; and another depicting varieties of butterflies, rendered in stained-glass enamel.

The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which manages the fair, says both attendance and business volumes increased this year, and that signs of recovery are evident. “While 2009 will be remembered above all as a year marked by a global economic crisis that did not spare fine watchmaking, the next 12 months are likely to be a completely different vintage,” said an FHH statement following the fair. “The increase in attendance recorded at the 2010 SIHH, despite greater selectiveness in extending invitations, is a very clear sign of this. The number of visitors was 10% up on last year, at 12,500, 1,200 of whom were representatives of the international media.”

The 2011 SIHH will be held from January 17 to 21. [CJ]

The Yacht Club Chrono from IWC’s revamped Portuguese line.

The new Cartier Calibre in steel, with date window and small seconds.


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When was the last time you raised your prices? Chances are it’s been a while. Many small business owners avoid raising their price points, particularly during a recession, out of fear of having di� cult conversations and of losing clients. Many small business

owners are considering raising their prices – some because their costs are rising, some because they feel their rising level of expertise justi� es it. For those that may be considering raising their prices, here are some factors to consider.

• Have your prices remained unchanged for many years?• Are your costs rising?• Are you very busy (which suggests clients think the owner off ers good value for money

or a unique skillset)?• Are you winning every piece of new business targeted (which suggests the business

is undervaluing its services)?• Have you or your employees signifi cantly increased your experience or related education?

Discussing money with clients can be one of the most awkward parts of being a small

business owner, so how do you raise prices with as little disruption as possible?

BY HOWARD GROSFIELD

How to Raise Prices, Even in a Recession

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Evaluate Your CostsIf you have held your prices unchanged for years and years, it’s likely that customers will be surprised when do you increase prices. If your customers come to understand that you are regularly evaluating your costs, they will be more likely to accept price changes without a negative reaction.

For small business owners, reevaluating pricing annually is a rule of thumb, though for those operating in an industry where costs experience volatility, semi-annually may be more appropriate. Once it’s been decided how often prices should be re-evaluated, it might serve well to pick a logical time of year, such as the end of the calendar year or fiscal year-end, and stick to it. That way, increases don’t appear arbitrary.

Price increases will also seem less arbitrary if you are able to cut any of your prices. Over time, you may find that your supply costs have decreased due to better sourcing, or that the time it takes you to complete a particular function has dropped because you are more efficient. When you combine increases with decreases, it’s more likely customers will accept that they are truthfully related to costs.

Know the MarketPerhaps one of the toughest parts of setting price points is figuring out how much to charge relative to others in the industry. This may take a little detective work. If the owner is part of a professional association, the easiest method may be to ask other members what they charge. (This will be less awkward if they are from another region and hence not direct competitors.) People also tend to be more forthcoming in online communities, which provide a degree of anonymity.

No SurprisesClients of manufactures and suppliers are most likely to accept a price increase when they get the information clearly and in advance. Businesses that simply start using new prices for routinely ordered product on the next invoice with no warning may be met with hostility. In this instance, transparency always wins. Send a letter clearly explaining how prices are going to change, when, and, perhaps most importantly, why. This will go a long way to gaining acceptance. For some clients, a phone call may be more appropriate.

When to Make ExceptionsSome clients may ask for exceptions, so it’s a good idea to think ahead about your answer. If you send out a notice of a price hike, consider if any clients are so valuable that it’s worth making an exception if asked. There are risks in making exceptions, since, most importantly, some people may talk. If one customer tells another that they are getting a deal, there may be a line-up of customers looking for something similar.

The best preparation for this situation may be to make sure the explanation for the price increase is clear and stick to it. If faced with the potential of losing a client, suppliers might consider what else can be offered as an offset rather than an exception to the price hike. Depending on the type of business, this might be a discount for high-volume business or just a one-month delay in implementing the new pricing, giving clients time to prepare.

Distinguish YourselfSometimes, when creating a price schedule, the key is to focus on the results you get for your client. A gentle reminder of the good work done in the past accompanying a discussion of rising prices helps to put things in perspective. [CJ]

“Clients of manufactures and suppliers are most likely to accept a price increase when they

get the information clearly and in advance. Businesses that simply start using new prices for

routinely ordered product on the next invoice with no warning may be met with hostility.”

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The story of Jewelers Mutual began in 1913, when members of the Wisconsin Retail Jewelers Association banded together to � nd a� ordable � re insurance for jewellers. Led by Andrew

Anderson, a Neenah, WI, jeweller, they formed the Jewelers Mutual Limited Fire Insurance Company of Wisconsin in the back o� ce of a downtown Neenah jewellery store. From here, the company issued its first policies, averaging US$700 in fire insurance coverage for a premium of US$9.15.

As the years passed, crime began to outpace � re as the greatest risk to jewellery businesses. In response, the burgeoning company rolled out additional insurance policies to re� ect the broader market, and changed its name to its present-day incarnation.

By its 40th anniversary in 1953, Jewelers Mutual had begun o� ering insurance coverage to consumers as well as to the trade, with a comprehensive Jewellers Block policy. Designed to protect retail and wholesale jewellers from crime losses, the base policy covers inventory of jewellery stock for sale, customers’ property entrusted to jewellers, memo goods, jewellery worn by employees while away from the business, the expense of hiring a security guard if there is an alarm system failure and any losses typical in the jewellery industry, such as burglary, robbery, sneak the� , � re and water damage, to name a few.

Darwin Copeman

Got it CoveredHow Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company is making things easier for retailers everywhere.BY CLARE TATTERSALL

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Since then, Jewelers Mutual has experienced its greatest growth, becoming licensed in all 50 states in 1976 and Canada in 2005, and broadening its range of insurance coverage to jewellery businesses. New coverage includes the Businessowners policy, providing property and liability coverage to manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers and specialty jewellery businesses; the Jewelers Standard Policy, a less expensive alternative to Jewelers Block for smaller jewellery operations; and the Jewelers Pak policy, which combines the Businessowners policy with the Jewelers Block policy. All policies can be customized to meet the policyholder’s specific coverage requirements.

“Every ounce of our energy, capital and human resources is focused on the desire to have the very best product and service and making sure that’s available to our customers,” says president and CEO Darwin Copeman, adding “coverage you can count on” is an integral part of the company’s success.

Currently, more than 10,000 policyholders trust Jewelers Mutual to insure their jewellery businesses and more than 200,000 individuals carry upwards of US$3-billion in personal insurance coverage. The ability to pay its claims is one of the reasons Jewelers Mutual has received an A+ Superior rating from A.M. Best for 23 consecutive years.

“We have a stellar reputation for covering our customers’ exposures, which keeps us first and foremost in the minds of our commercial insurers,” he notes. Also top of mind for policyholders and Jewelers Mutual its people. Last year the company completed an 18,900-sq.-ft. addition to its Neenah headquarters, located, fittingly, on Jewelers Park Drive, which was undertaken to accommodate Jewelers Mutual’s growing and number-one asset – its employees.

“We have one of the most highly reputed individuals in loss prevention in (North America),” says Copeman of David Sexton, vice-president of loss prevention, who is one of 191 staff members. “He works with all security companies, is constantly asked to consult with individual commercial store owners that are looking to develop new security systems, and was recently inducted to the board of the Jewelers’ Security Alliance.” Copeman, who joined Jewelers Mutual in 2009, has more than 30 years of experience in the insurance industry, most recently as the president and CEO of Cameron Insurance Companies. He has also served in executive positions at Great American Insurance Company and in various executive and management roles at Grinnell Mutual Reinsurance Company. Since joining Jewelers Mutual, the company has forged two historic partnerships – one with Jewelers of America and the other with the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA). There was also a partnership forged with the American Gem Society in February 2009. Through relationships such as these, Jewelers Mutual has forged a symbiotic relationship with the jewellery industry. These strategic partnerships have also served to enhance the services and products Jewelers Mutual and the respective organizations provide to the retail jewellery industry, ensuring its health and vitality. For example, through Jewelers Mutual’s partnership with the CJA, members of the association receive free access to JM University, a virtual classroom established by the company to provide safety, security and insurance education to the

jewellery industry. Interactive online training courses include Danger on the Road and Selling with Security. Providing important tips to significantly reduce travel risk, Danger on the Road was the first online course of its kind related to jewellery security. Selling with Security is the newest online course, which teaches jewellers how to protect merchandise, staff and themselves from thieves, using three important security habits: meet-and-greet, one-on-one and turn the key. In meet-and-greet, for instance, jewellers learn how to make customers feel welcome and thieves uncomfortable in their store. Emphasis is placed on greeting each customer, making eye contact and keeping watch, as well as continuously checking jewellery sales tags to prevent a switch of real for fake jewellery.

“First and foremost, our role in the industry is to keep jewellers from having losses, so we work diligently to get information out about loss prevention,” says Copeman about the niche company, which is the only insurer dedicated to protecting the jewellery industry and individuals who own jewellery.

To facilitate the dissemination of information, Jewelers Mutual has produced a series of security and loss prevention films. Further emphasizing its commitment to education, it has also partnered with the Jewelers’ Security Alliance to develop a comprehensive alert network to combat crime. These efforts are especially noteworthy given today’s rising crime rates. According to Jewellers Vigilance Canada, the number of reported break and enter, theft and robbery crimes involving jewellery increased in 2009, with robberies almost doubling to 44 from 28, accounting for $3.8-million in losses.

“Most of the crime that impacts jewellers today is a product of professional thieves that do a very good job at identifying security leaks or potential weaknesses in a store,” he notes. “They’re studying the safe mechanisms, security devices and alarm companies that are intended to protect stores, trying to find a way around them so they might be able to get away with stealing a large sum of gems or watches.” Copeman adds that he has also seen an increase in the number of reported off-premise travel losses involving jewellery. To reduce the risk of becoming a victim, he stresses the importance of straying from habitual behaviour.

“It’s about not exposing yourself to watching thieves,” he explains. “When travelling from town to town, don’t take the same route, don’t stay at the same hotel and don’t make the same rounds in the community.”

While providing this type of value-added information is a hallmark of Jewelers Mutual, the company also takes time to listen to the jewellery industry through its Jewelers Advisory Council. Comprised of eight Jewelers Mutual-insured jewellers that represent the variety of businesses the company insures, the Council meets with Jewelers Mutual representatives at least once a year to discuss insurance and security issues for the industry and provide insight into how the company can most effectively meet the needs of its commercial customers.

“By helping each other, we can better serve our clients,” says Copeman. “It’s a win-win-win all-around.” [CJ]

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Re� rthIan Saude brings simplicity and spiritualism to the

forefront of jewellery.

BY BONNIE SIEGLER

Etoile I, with fancy sapphires, in shades ranging from classic to exotic.

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Settling into the idyllic Katmandu, Nepal, in the mid-'90s, Ian Saude searched the region for new ideas and inspiration for his jewellery collection. At the same time, while living in the Himalayas,

studying Buddhism philosophy, Saude sought out the ancient ways of jewellery making so that each piece he created would enhance the natural qualities of his surroundings. In 2006, Saude returned to California to live and begin work on a new brand, Ian Saude: IS, launched in May 2008. Mixing colours and exotic gemstones, Saude’s style of working with nature instead of against it, has brought about a strong Hollywood following enjoys his contemporary and interchangeable pieces, which bring out their own creativity and daily attitudes.

Canadian Jeweller (CJ): What was it about the ancient cra� smanship traditions that fascinated you and inspired you?

Ian Saude (IS): Just the fact that they could fashion such amazing looking pieces of jewellery using, in some cases, tools that had not substantially changed since the Middle Ages. � ey used old-fashioned hand tools, kerosene torches and blow pipes. I thought it was amazing to see where jewellery-making started and then compare it to all of the di� erent techniques and tools we have today. � at was when I � rst started, in 1995.

CJ: How has your jewellery – and you personally – been in� uenced by the exotic and spiritualism of Nepal and this region?

IS: I am a practicing Buddhist and the spirituality came � rst, I think. I don’t know if I can say speci� cally how it in� uenced me because it has in� uenced me on so many levels and in so many di� erent ways. In early collections, I used a lot of symbolic imagery from ancient Tibet and Sanskrit, both the iconography and the literary tradition. I love modern art and I wanted to do pieces that � t more into a Western sensibility, so the references to those aspects are more symbolic now. For instance, one of my new earrings is a large hinged hoop earring, but it’s also a very unusual shape. It’s not that the shape derived directly from any spiritual tradition, but the whole idea that when you change your perspective relative to the piece, your perception of how the piece is shaped changes.

Acqua I + Kaba dangles, with baroque-briolette oro verde citrines in 18k yellow gold.

Acqua I + Kobe dangles, with high-dome briolettes (averaging 28-29tcw) in mint green quartz.

Acqua II + Kobe dangles, with elongated, almond-shaped hinged hoops.



designerprofile

It’s very much a Buddhist concept. It’s really the subject that defines the experience, not the object itself. The object is there as a mirror as it were. As I’ve evolved, the symbolic imagery is less literal and more experiential.

CJ: Do you work with silver and 18k gold now?

IS: I don’t really work much with silver now. It’s 18k gold and gemstones.

CJ: What gemstones do you prefer using?

IS: I’m doing a lot of micro-pavé work with chocolate diamonds, in the cognac tones. We’re doing a lot of shading, and I’m using pavé techniques, not just for normal f lat, round surfaces but on curvilinear surfaces, using diamonds to uncover unusual shapes that you would not normally be able to use gemstones for until recently. That, in combination with beautiful subdued colour is what I prefer. I like tourmaline a lot, different colours of citrine – things that go well with a cognac colour. And all these go so well with white, yellow and rose gold, which I like to work in, so it goes well with everything, actually. Because it’s a little softer, the colour of the diamonds is not quite so blatant and women feel comfortable wearing them during the daytime and really get noticed. They’re obviously fine jewellery, but they’re not necessarily just red carpet accessories.

CJ: So are your designs interchangeable between day and night?

IS: A big concept in the 2009 collection was and is versatility. For example, I took an earring called Acqua Huggies, which is a small sculptural piece – Demi Moore and Christina Ricci wore those. The Huggies have a whole selection of different interchangeable dangles that fit on to them. And the dangles come in all different colours so the idea is women can mix and match, and if they’re travelling, you don’t want something too opulent for the office, but when you’re going out for drinks later, you can take these earrings and transform them to make them look like something new. It increases the value of the piece, because you don’t have to invest in earrings every time. You can customize it to wardrobe, seasonal changes, moods, so it can be a creative thing, too.

CJ: Teri Hatcher was seen with a pair of your Piave I earrings.

IS: Yes, she owns a pair of those. She bought them for herself. She also has wore our 12 stacking rings on the red carpet.

CJ: Other celebrities wear your designs, as well.

IS: Faith Hill wore the big Piave III hoops at the CMA Awards last year when she presented the Entertainer of the Year award to Taylor Swift. Jessica Biel wore the Piave II hoops at the Rome Film Festival last year and on a few other recent occasions. Kate Beckinsale just bought one of our capsule rings for herself, similar to our Piave earrings but as a ring.

Scultura with Tahitian pearl dangles, with mocca diamonds with detachable gem-grade Tahitian pearl dangles.

Acqua I + Lea dangles, in 18k yellow gold with baroque-cut African amethyst navettes surrounded by diamonds.

Acqua I + Alais dangles, in 18k rose gold with rose colored Malaya zircons framed with mocca diamonds.



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CJ: Celebrities do have a hand in setting trends. Do you see an emphasis on any certain design that calls out “fashion forward” for this year?

IS: The Scultura and the Acqua I and Acqua II earrings with their various dangle combinations are of particular interest for this season, I think. The versatility and the “fun” aspect of being able to change them around is a key reason for their appeal, I’ve heard. Expressing one’s creativity, your look evolves as you evolve, and I think that’s what is appealing.

CJ: Your pieces represent a look that is chic, yet trendy. What do you think your collection says about the women who wear some of your pieces?

IS: That’s a very good question. We have a broad cross section of women who enjoy the pieces, and I don’t design for any one kind of customer, specifically. But in general, I try to design for a woman who is confident in her take, who is looking at jewellery, clothing choices and lifestyle choices as an outlet for her own creativity as an expression of her taste. And as someone who is confident in making those purchases for herself. Although I have a lot of men buying these pieces for women, I’m not really designing a collection of traditional diamond jewellery that’s going to be marriage-related. Basically, people have different lifestyles and relationships now and I’m trying to create jewellery for a woman in her own unique point of view, not via the relationship in her life. It’s really something that’s going to be fun, that fits into her lifestyle, something she can use in lots of different ways. Women respond to those changes. We all evolve over the course of our lifetimes and women (more than men), are often called upon to fulfill a lot of different roles in their lives. So I’m trying to create jewellery that’s sexy and fun, but at the same time, is dignified and apparently valuable. It’s nice to create things that are fashion forward but still have the ability to become a future classic so that a woman can wear it, enjoy it now, put it back in her jewellery box for a few years and then take it out only to love it all over again. I want to create designs that are contemporary, but not trendy in the sense that they are disposable and cater to some cultural whim. I want women to develop a jewellery wardrobe. [CJ]

"I want to create designs that are contemporary,

but not trendy in the sense that they are

disposable and cater to some cultural whim.

I want women to develop a jewellery wardrobe."

Capsule rings in black or mocca diamonds. Available in 18k yellow gold, or white and rose gold by special order.

Treasure cage ring. Cocktail ring in 18k yellow gold, entwines a cache of loose baroque South Sea pearls. The surface is a mixture of brushed and polished finishes, delicately strewn with tiny green sapphires in bezel settings.


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JA New York:Feb. 28 - Mar. 2, 2010

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World's Gold & Diamonds, Inc.Houston, TX

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The best way to prevent robbery on the road is by preplanning. By the time a thief strikes, he has probably been planning the crime for weeks; a jeweller needs to think ahead to outwit him.

“One of our challenges is educating jewellers about how to protect themselves,” says David Sexton, CPCU, Vice-President, Loss Prevention, for Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company. “The JVC (Jewellers Vigilance Canada) manual for loss prevention provides the most comprehensive guide to procedures that can be used to prevent crime in Canada.” The Jewelers Mutual website offers a free video, “Danger on the Road.”

“In loss prevention, there’s nothing more powerful than knowledge,” says Sexton. “The information one jeweller gets from another is more valuable than anything they would read in a brochure.”

Vigilance is key, and starts long ahead, because thieves sometimes watch a target for weeks before striking. JVC Director of Crime Prevention John Lamont suggests, “preplanning your route and maybe not using the same route all the time.”

If a car is followed, “salesmen on the road have to engage in evasive driving techniques,” says John Kennedy, President of Jewelers Security Alliance. “Drive very slowly, making U-turns or driving around the block

in residential neighbourhoods.” If the suspicious car is still following, “get to a place of safety: pull into a police or fire station or a bank. Dial 911, and do not say ‘I think I am being followed.’ Say ‘I am about to be the victim of an armed robbery.’”

“Try not to stop the car,” advises Normand Federico, Director of Loss Prevention for Birks and Mayors. “Have a full tank of gas and a fully-charged cell phone. Make sure to go to the bathroom before you start.” Do not respond to any distraction, from someone asking for directions to an argument in a restaurant. If you see a roadside accident, call 911 to report it, but do not stop.

Lamont notes that some thieves will puncture a tire so the driver will be forced to pull over later. “If your tire is going flat, go to a gas station or pull into a public place.” Run-flat tires, which stretch driving time on a puncture, can be a good investment.

Merchandise should always be locked in the trunk of the car. “There is greater risk to yourself when the merchandise is inside the car. There are lock systems that can provide greater security to your trunk,” Kennedy notes; Babaco is one trusted brand. When unloading, “if everything is in your trunk, you have time to look around,” says Federico. “If you have any doubt, leave everything in your trunk and go inside to security and call 911.”


Stop jewellery theft on the road before leaving home.By Sarah B. hood

Prevention is the Best Protection

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“I predict it's going to be a great success for all us jewelers. The potential is mind-blowing.”

Chuck Kuba

Iowa Diamond

Des Moines, IA

S M A R T J E W E L E R

SIZZLE.Want to get your sales cooking? THE SMART JEWELRY SHOW

is the place to find the hottest ideas in jewelry retail. Share smart

tactics with the country’s most creative jewelers. Work with

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Luggage can be fitted with a GPS device that can be tracked via computer. Some systems set off an alarm if the briefcase is moved more than ten feet away from its owner. However, Kennedy cautions, “often, thieves discard the item. There is also the issue of the recovery of the goods; it’s not simple. Before and after every sales call, eyeball the area, and don’t sit in your car for any length of time,” he says. “Park very near to your destination. Ideally, the store owner will make sure you get back to your car.”

“Some people hire a security guard,” says Lamont. “When they go into a mall, the guard should keep a little distance between himself and the jeweller so they can’t both be distracted at the same time.” Federico notes that security personnel should be in plainclothes, “and the guard carries the merchandise.”

Overnight trips require further planning. “You have to follow your insurance company, but in our experience, it’s much safer to put the merchandise in your hotel room than the hotel safe or vault,” says Kennedy. However, thieves will break in if the room is unoccupied.

“If you’re going from store to store, at the end of the day, leave the line at the last store, where it’s properly alarmed,” Lamont suggests. “Many travelling salespeople will obtain a waiver form from their insurance company that says they won’t hold the merchant responsible if they keep it in their store.”

When flying, ideally, jewellery should never be checked, but most tools and jewellery with pin-like fasteners will not be allowed in carry-on. It is advisable to request a private security screening. Otherwise, it is best to wait until the regular check-in line is not busy. Packing merchandise in transparent wrapping or cases will speed up a luggage search. An aisle seat is safest, and the best place to keep the line is under the seat.

When travelling to a trade show, the most secure option is to hire an armoured car company to transport the line into the secure show area. Smoke and Screen Security Systems, based in Barrie, ON, handles Smokecloak, an in-store security system that deters thieves by filling the shop with a non-toxic fog that makes it impossible to see anything. The same product has been modified for use with armoured cars. “It is actively being used in Europe for that application,” says company president Kevin Paul. “It has been used since 2003.”

These points may seem basic, but, says Federico, if every jeweller followed such simple rules as keeping the line locked securely in the car trunk and never stopping en route, “he could prevent 90% to 95% of robberies.”

“You have a bad feeling,” says Sexton, “when people have a loss that could have been prevented.” [CJ]

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Barbed wire compounds, steel trap doors, metal detectors, video surveillance cameras, rows of shielded militia perched motionlessly awaiting conflict; metaphors of protection, security

and defense. Images that conjure up trepidation and safety. The point is that threats or anticipated threats from vandals to terrorists force us to take measures to secure our lives, fortunes, liberties, autonomies and rights.

Attackers are constantly scheming of ingenious ways to penetrate tightly controlled security systems, stripping us of our prosperity. When it comes to security, more often than not, assailants have the upper hand. Property owners, merchants and institutions are forced to put in place security measures and protocols that cover all points of attack, while assailants only need to identify and focus on the weakest point. Commitment to such protocols must be dynamic and ongoing. If vulnerability is the weakness that potentially can be exploited, then the larger the organization, the greater its vulnerability. As threats become more sophisticated and companies more susceptible, security has moved from “maybe” to “mandatory” on the corporate “To Do” list.

Businesses need to create security networks combining technology, resources, measures and procedures that are interconnected in the fight against unlawful interference. Such networks do not come without a cost. The upside to this is that the amount of theft and damage created by the lack of a security network is typically far greater than the costs to put one in place. It is estimated that on average, businesses loose up to 10% of their revenues per year as a result of poor or non-existent security practices.

When businesses and merchants practice correct security management, the likelihood of an incident is significantly reduced. Preparedness becomes one of the best forms of defense and the better businesses are at assessing risk and preparing for it the more successful they become at avoiding a breach.

Security networks need to be entrenched in the fabric of any business operation. Whether you are a jewellery store merchant or football stadium owner, specific security protocols need to be put in place to protect assets, systems, property and human resources. Threats and

In the corporate world, security components need to be more than IT security, physical security, and fraud prevention.


Protect Your Prosperity

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advertisingfeature

Protect Your Prosperity

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potential threats must be identified immediately and effectively dealt with. Threats, like any disease, virus or parasite, if left unchecked will continue to thrive, become more sophisticated in nature, develop resistance and evolve.

INKAS® Security Services Ltd., a company whose mere existence is postured on the premise that threats subsist, continues to do combat in the war against unlawful interference. Through its armed guard, close protection, security officer, armed courier, armoured vehicle and safe manufacturing divisions, INKAS® offers multi layered protocols of defense.

Where an alarm system may ward off an intruder, a strategically placed sign promoting the alarm system may prevent the window from actually getting broken – an effective measure of prevention and deterrence. Whether you are a merchant, jeweller, trade show operator or institution, preventative measures are vital for protection. When it

comes to security, INKAS® are prevention specialists. The Company’s executives and engineers are risk management strategists, constantly analyzing situations, probing weaknesses and vulnerabilities and developing tactical and affordable solutions.

In spite of the security industry becoming very competitive, few companies offer multiple products and services in the same light as INKAS®. From its armed guard services to its storage facilities for bullion, precious metals and cash, INKAS® supplements the fibers to which security networks are woven.

In order to thwart off perpetrators, companies need to display their security networks as a fortress. The presence of an armed guard sends a very strong message to both customers and criminals. And although it is not possible to guarantee that all threats can be totally eliminated, businesses that engage in the services provided by INKAS® can take pride in knowing that they are gaining the upper hand. [CJ]

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Full ReplacementNo waiting. No hassles. No extra fees. The worldwide web as data insurance.By AmBer KlAehn

While at first glance it may seem counterintuitive to look to the Internet for security, web applications can provide essential protection and insurance for the jewellery retailer – protecting

valuable data against loss, fire, theft and/or virus.

The protection lies in secure, off-site (online) storage of the business’ records through a web-based service. Loss protection: web-based data management means the retailer no longer needs to back up data. One of the most important management tasks is ensuring that software and business information is backed up to an external device to protect against system failures. And yet, most retailers do not back up their data on a regular basis. They often forget to check and monitor that the backups are performing correctly. One of the biggest stumbling blocks is time: data back up can take up to several hours per day, depending on the software. With a web-based application, data is saved and secured automatically.

Fire or theft protection: the web advantage is that data is stored off-site.

Virus protection: a virus can spread to other computers on an internal network and cause data loss if the server becomes infected. The superior security of a web-application means data is unaffected by local viruses and hardware issues.

With any type of loss comes the need for disaster recovery. Few retailers have disaster-recovery policies and procedures in place; and the lack of a plan for data loss or server crashes can be devastating to a business, costing time and money to get back up and running. The advantage of web applications is that it only takes plugging in a new computer and getting online to be back in business. Of course the important part of choosing the right web application is to do the due diligence on the security of the system.

As with any insurance policy, it is important to examine the fine detail – the difference an ‘s’ makes for example. The standard Internet address bar typically starts with http:// and follows with the web address. ‘Http’ is insecure and subject to man-in-the-middle and eavesdropping attacks which make it easy for hackers to gain access to website accounts and sensitive information.

An ‘s’ added onto ‘http’, thus https:// signals a secure connection with an extra layer of encrypted data that is used for authentication. ‘Https’ connections are often used for payment transactions over the Internet and for sensitive transactions in corporate information systems. ‘Https’ is secure, and is designed to withstand eavesdroppers and hackers.

A secure web service company is one that has successfully completed a statement on auditing standards No 70 (SAS70) Type II Audit and has

066-067.CJ_Tech_re.indd 66 2/11/10 11:02:35 AM


obtained a favourable, unbiased opinion from its independent auditors. SAS70 certi� es that a service organization has had an in-depth audit of the controls it has in place for operational performance and security to safeguard customer data.

Amazon Web Services for example, with the world’s largest computing infrastructure, Amazon’s EC2, has undergone such an audit and provides the latest in data security, privacy and protection.

Working in conjunction with web-based applications, software can provide further protection against theft. The right software helps prevent employee the� – of client data, inventory and/or time. So� ware can be used to track hours and monitor productivity. Programs can be put in place to track all employee-usage of data applications, including running unauthorized reports, downloading and exporting client data. Inventory management so� ware provides more accurate recording and tracking than a manual system and is another the� -deterrent. (An added advantage of inventory control so� ware is that in the case of loss due to the� , it provides accurate records that can dramatically reduce the time and work involved in settling an insurance claim.)

Considering all the vulnerabilities retailers face in regards to data and inventory security it just makes sense to take advantage of the most secure and sophisticated technology available. It’s added insurance. [CJ]

TipsEmail Best PracticeModify your main email address for specifi c applications such as signing up for e-bulletins or newsletters. For example, your address is [email protected]. If I were to sign up for a newsletter or email alert, I would add ‘-cj’ to the base: [email protected]. This provides a couple of benefi ts: if you receive unsolicited email at the modifi ed address, then you know that your email address was sold and distributed by the company signed up with; if that’s the case, you can easily add the modifi ed email address to a junk fi lter without disrupting main email address.

Protect your email addresses by never posting them on your website. Email harvesters (spambots) crawl the web to fi nd and extract addresses from web pages. They add these to their database for junk mail. Rather than posting your email address as a means for people to contact you, make your contact mechanism a contact form.

Passwords Best Practice1. Password Age: Change your password every 30 to 90

days. This way, if someone cracks a password, access will be limited by expiry.

2. Password Complexity: A combination of length, seven or more characters, use of upper and lower case, and numerals and/or keyboard symbols make the most secure passwords. For example: Meat25balls or Spag#S%etti.

3. Password History: Your software system should remember several previous passwords, which prevents users from re-using a password after expiration.

techfeature

066-067.CJ_Tech_re.indd 67 2/11/10 11:02:50 AM

Sparkling Statements

Charlize � eron always makes a statement whether in movie or fashion. At the 13th Hollywood Awards Gala in Beverly Hills, the Oscar winner chose to adorn her slender � ngers with a large 20 carat turquoise and gold Neil Lane cocktail ring ($6,500.00).



To display some spectacular special effects of her own at the “2012” premiere, co-star � andie Newton chose a Yvel baroque pearl and 18k white gold diamond ring ($32,830) to showcase.

Thandie Newton

Charlize Theron


Bid adieu to Old Man Winter and add some sparkle to your style with the trends celebs will be sporting as 2010 warms up BY BONNIE SIEGLER

Neither rain, nor snow could keep the sparkle and shine under wraps when Hollywood stars saunter in their jewellery. Since there’s always a party or premiere to accessorize, let’s take a look at what the jewels the stars will be wearing for the coming year.

068-069.CJ_StarWatch.indd 68 2/11/10 10:35:22 AM

starwatch

Arriving at the premiere of her movie, “Amelia” in New York, two-time Oscar winner Hilary Swank sparkled in Neil Lane’s diamond and platinum drop earrings, wearing 10 carats in each ear ($500,000) plus a diamond and platinum ru� e bracelet with 30 carats of diamonds ($250,000).

Maggie Grace looked ethereal and graceful at the Jimmy Choo for H&M event in November. To set off her white cut-out bodice gown, the actress chose Yvel’s south sea pearl drop earrings with black diamond leaves ($21,950).

Maggie Grace

Hilary Swank


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Canadian jewellery crimes rise as U.S. figures fall.BY SARAH B. HOOD

Crime Report

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securityfeature

T he Canadian jewellery industry has been facing a serious increase in crime over the past year. Although numerous factors are at play, including new money-laundering legislation, experts

believe that organized gangs of criminals have recently moved from the U.S. into Canada, and that they are targeting sales people travelling with jewellery merchandise. Sharing information across various segments of the industry is one of the strongest defences against this upsurge in criminal activity. The most recent Canadian statistics available from Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), updated to December 15, 2009, show a very significant spike in robberies in the past year. To illustrate: 2007 saw 12 reported robberies involving merchandise worth a total of $2,841,000. In 2008, there were 28 incidents, with a comparatively lower total value of $2,403,999. However, in 2009, 44 incidents were reported, with total losses estimated at $8,432,000 – well over three times the previous year’s dollar figures.

Other types of crimes also increased, though not to the same alarming extent. In 2007, there were 11 break-and-enter crimes, with losses of $3,329,673. In 2008, losses dropped slightly, with 21 incidents valued at a total of $1,455,000. There were 20 incidents in 2009 ($2,049,844). When it comes to thefts, 2007 saw 92 incidents with a total value of $1,511,296. In 2008 there were 61 incidents ($2,736,546), and 2009 saw 60 incidents ($3,807,043).

Taken altogether, JVC reports total dollar figures for jewellery crime losses as $7,681,969 in 2007, $6,595,545 in 2008 and $14,288,887 in 2009. The dramatic increase in 2009 runs exactly counter to crime trends in the U.S., where some analysts had predicted higher rates of jewellery crime because of the country’s straitened economic situation. However, preliminary 2009 figures provided by Jewelers’ Security Alliance show a drop in total jewellery crime losses in the U.S. to 1,505 incidents (representing losses of $93.7 million) in 2009, from 1,527 incidents ($105.3 million) in 2008.

Robberies in the U.S. accounted for 219 incidents involving losses of $26.6 million in 2008, and 244 incidents involving $32 million in 2009.

U.S. jewellery thefts rose slightly, from 794 incidents and $14.3- million in 2008 to 826 incidents and $16.8-million in 2009. The occurrence of burglaries stayed approximately even; 208 saw 325 incidents and $21.4-million, while 2009 saw 307 incidents and $21.3-million. On the other hand, off-premise crimes dropped significantly, from 189 incidents and losses of $43-million in 2008 to 128 incidents and $23.6-million in 209. This drop is of great significance to the Canadian situation. In fact,

analysts believe that there has literally been a movement of criminal activity from the U.S. to Canada.

Looking closer at the Canadian figures provided by JVC, one sees that of the 44 robberies reported in 2009, six of these involved travelling salespersons, accounting for losses of $2,950,000. (There were also six assaults, with losses of $1,657,000 and 32 armed robberies ($3,825,000.00).

Of the 60 thefts that took place across Canada in 2009, 10 involved travelling salespersons, and represented a total of $2,140,800 in losses. Other types of crimes included distraction (16 incidents representing a total of $462,715); grab-and-run (19 incidents and $172,548), and smash-and-grab (15 incidents and $1,030,980).

These statistics are the best available information, but they still may not paint the complete picture. “Most jewellery crime in Canada is not reported; it’s really hard to get a handle on the full extent of jewellery crime,” says David Sexton, CPCU, Vice President, Loss Prevention with Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, who was recently elected to the board of Jewelers’ Security Alliance.

Sexton points out that one explanation for the drop in the U.S. crime statistics is the financial slowdown. “You have fewer people travelling in the States; with fewer people out there, you’re going to have fewer incidents,” he says. However, he also believes that U.S. crackdowns on South American crime gangs have forced their activity north of the border.

“This first came to my attention, about two years ago when I was down in Florida doing a crime seminar with Jewelers’ Security Alliance,” says John Lamont, Director of Crime Prevention for JVC. “New York City police gave a presentation on South American gangs that target travelling salesmen who are carrying jewellery.”

In the presentation, Lamont learned that well organized gangs had been active in the U.S. for some time, with “probably in excess of 750 members spread around in New York City, Miami and Houston,” he says. However, because of pressure that had been brought to bear by local police authorities and the FBI, the New York officers believed, they were now moving into Canada.

“When I came back to Canada, I was aware of a travelling salesman who had been robbed of his merchandise in an Ontario mall. I contacted York Regional Police and passed on the information. As a result, four or five South Americans were arrested for that crime,” Lamont says.




securityfeature

“These are gangs from South America who are almost always illegal immigrants and who are specifically targeting the jewellery industry,” says John Kennedy, President of Jewelers’ Security Alliance. “Virtually everyone arrested in these crimes is from Columbia or neighbouring countries. These gangs operate worldwide: in Hong Kong, at trade shows in China – can you imagine how they would stand out there, and the draconian penalties? – and in Dubai, England, France, Italy. For a year or two they have felt that there were fertile fields in Canada, and that is why we have seen this upsurge”

The gang activity is simple but effective. “They will actually do months of surveillance on jewellery locations, and when they see the travelling salesman carrying a bag from store to store, they follow him,” Lamont says. “They also look for loose diamond events or special watch promotions, and that’s what they would target. They would also target trade shows.”

Initially, most of these crimes involved distraction thefts. These might take the form of thieves approaching a salesperson unloading merchandise from the car, and drawing his attention to a $20 bill they say he has just dropped in an attempt to get him to take his hands off the merchandise long enough for them to simply grab them and run to a waiting vehicle. However, the thefts can be more violent, and involve weapons or threats of physical violence.

“In the U.S. we’ve seen a great increase in the use of knives to threaten people. A lot of them used to be stealth; they used to try to trick the salesperson into putting down their bag by asking for directions, asking for change, telling them there’s dirt on their coat,” says Kennedy. “The principle place it happens is parking lots outside hotels, retail stores, restaurants. In the U.S. we’ve seen attacks on jewellers in their homes and driveways; I don’t think you’ve seen that in Canada.”

“The trend is that there will be a rash of these types of occurrences around the Toronto area; then there’ll be a rash in Calgary; we’ve had

several in Vancouver, and most recently in Winnipeg, so they’re very mobile; they travel a lot,” says Lamont, who estimates the average loss per theft at about $100,000.

However, South American gang activity is probably not the only explanation for the increase in jewellery crime in Canada. “There is another occurrence that jewellers are plagued by: grab-and-run, where the thief will look at a piece and then run out of the store. They’ll either target a large diamond or an expensive watch. There has been a real rash of jewellery store robberies in the Vancouver area,” Lamont says.

“I’m not suggesting that these are being carried out by South Americans; I think it’s completely different. The economic environment may have something to do with it, and there may be more than one group. These incidents usually happen at opening or around closing because there would be fewer people in the store at those times,” he adds.

“In Canada, there’s another issue, in relation to money laundering; as of December 31, 2008, Canada brought into force a money laundering act,” Lamont continues. Known officially as The Proceeds of Crime (Money Laundering) and Terrorist Financing Act (PCMLTFA) and administered by the Financial Transactions and Reports Analysis Centre of Canada, or FINTRAC, the legislation requires financial institutions and others covered by the legislation to identify customers who conduct financial transactions, such as depositing funds or buying a money order.

But the legislation may be having unintended consequences for the jewellery industry. “If the government is keeping track of large sums of money, then diamonds and gold can become a source of cash in the underworld,” Lamont points out.

No matter why incidents occur, “What people have to realize is that some robbery is not preventable,” says Lamont. “JVC strongly recommends that jewellers never resist in these situations; jewellery can be replaced, but lives cannot.” [CJ]

“If the government is keeping track of large sums

of money, then diamonds and gold can become

a source of cash in the underworld.”



what’son

upcoming eventsEvery effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm.

If you would like dates added, please contact [email protected]

February | CanadaAlberta Gift ShowFebruAry 21 - 24Edmonton Expo Centre, NorthlandsEdmonton, Alberta416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469www.albertagiftshow.com

February | internationalbusiness to business Gem Trade ShowFebruAry 4 - 12Gem MallTucson, [email protected]

Tucson Gem & Mineral ShowFebruAry 11 - 14Tucson Convention Center Tucson, [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowFebruAry 12 - 14Valley Forge Convention PlazaKing of Prussia, [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowFebruAry 19 - 21Dulles Expo CenterChantilly, [email protected]

IIJS Signature GoaFebruAry 19 - 22Kala AcademyPanjim, Goa, India+91 22 2652 [email protected] www.iijs-signature.org

Grapevine Gem, Jewelry & bead ShowFebruAry 26 - 28Grapevine Convention CenterGrapevine, [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowFebruAry 26 - 28Chase Center on the RiverfrontWilmington, [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowFebruAry 26 - 28The Queen MaryLong Beach, [email protected]

JA New york Winter ShowFebruAry 28 - MArch 2Javits CenterNew York, New [email protected]

MarCh | CanadaMontreal Gift ShowMArch 7 - 10Place BonaventureMontreal, Quebec416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469www.montrealgiftshow.com

MarCh | internationalInternational Gem & Jewelry ShowMArch 5 - 7Denver Merchandise MartDenver, [email protected]

hKTDc hong Kong International Jewellery ShowMArch 5 - 9Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition CentreWan Chai, Hong Kong, China+852 1830 [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowMArch 6 - 7Southfield Pavilion, Southfield Municipal ComplexSouthfield, [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowMArch 12 - 14Veterans MemorialColumbus, [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowMArch 12 - 14Expo New MexicoAlbuquerque, New [email protected]

MJSA expo New yorkMArch 14 - 16Hilton New YorkNew York, New York401-274-3840 or [email protected]

baselworldMArch 18 - 25Messe BaselBasel, Switzerland+41 58 206 25 [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowMArch 19 - 21Lester Palmer Event CenterAustin, [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowMArch 19 - 21DoubleTree Hotel - Lloyd CenterPortland, [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowMArch 26 - 28Seattle CenterSeattle, [email protected]

International Gem & Jewelry ShowMArch 26 - 28Gateway CenterCollinsville, [email protected]

073.CJ_WhatsOn_re.indd 73 2/11/10 10:21:16 AM

showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, [email protected] or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected].


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* Track commissions, special orders & layaways* Integrate with QuickBooks & Simply Accounting * Barcoding, labelling & inventory control* Built in credit/ debit processing* Print repair bags & labels for jewellery* Create your own gift cards

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Show: Date: Booth: Venue:1. Tuscon Feb. 02- Feb. 07, 2010 309 AGTA, Tuscon Convention Center2. Bangkok Feb. 26-Mar. 02, 2010 I56, 58 Challenger Convention Center

MCD Pearl ImportsA selection of pearl strands, loose pearls

and pearl jewellery.

27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426

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ADVERTISING & DESIGN � PHOTOGRAPHY � TRADE SHOW DISPLAYS � PRINTING

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A D V E R T I S I N G

marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:

Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, [email protected] or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected].

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LET US EARN YOUR TRUSTWeb: www.xau.ca

Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-111121 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:

[email protected]

Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad 2/25/09 3:11 PM Page 1

Call our Hotline for Prices: 416-366-GOLD (4653) Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 • Fax: 416-366-3499 27 Queen Street East, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario

Available for Immediate DeliveryAll Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined

PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN, IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM

GOLD DEPOTGOLD DEPOT

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes

• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883

email: [email protected]

Lala Diamond PDF:Layout 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1

Lacy & Company Ltd. Established 1927

Shop On-Line www.lacytools.ca

Quality tools for Quality Results ~ The Complete Jewellers Supply HouseAgent for Neutec Laser Welders ~ Casting Systems, Umarq Engravers, Durston, Elma, European Hand Tools, Busch Burs, Castaldo, Kerr, Foredom, Grobet USA

Ask about the Jewellers Advantage !416-365-1375 1-800-387-4466 sales@ lacytools.ca

55 QUEEN STREET, EAST, TORONTO, ONTARIOMONDAY - FRIDAY 9:00 AM TO 5:30 PM

WALK-IN SHOWROOM

H & W PERRIN Co. LtdCanada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials

PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and adeep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers

We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.

A long standing tradition of service since 1929.If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139

� [email protected]

Perrin ad:Layout 1 3/23/09 7:00 PM Page 1

Refining - Assaying - Trading

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You RefineTel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Web:www.refinegold.ca E-mail: [email protected] 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.caand www.goldrefiner.ca

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap

Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine 21 Dundas Sqaure, Suite 311, Toronto, Ontario, M5B 1B7

CNC Gold Refining Inc

Toll Free: 877-465 3497

9 9 9 9

E-mail:[email protected] Web: www.goldrefining.caTel: 416-642 3600 Fax:416-642 3500

While You Wait-Immediate Settlements

www.goldrefining.ca

Check our State of the art Jewellery AlloysCheck Our Site for the Up-to-Date Buy and Sale Prices

At:

Revolution.Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com

It’s all about you.

Read current and past issues online. Listen to articles and podcasts.Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers Guide. Discuss & debate on our Forums. Source & Share in our retailer-only space.

Get published.



InspIratIonal educatIonal InnovatIve

m a g a z I n e

The inspiration of fashion jewellery®

everCanada’s first premium Fashion Jewellery magazine

Great to take home

Educate & Entertain your customers

Haveever in-store to keep your customers inspired;

Yes, I would like to have 20 copies at no charge for my store at the address below:

be a part of it.

2010

Store name:

Address:

Phone:

Fax:

Email:

Contact name:

Fax to: 1-888-849-0155

Ever_FullPage.indd 1 2/11/10 1:13:14 PM




Somal Watches Clocks Parts & Tools Supply

ST-5002 - French madeScrew Driver set in Wooden Case

ST-5100A Energizer W-3000 Watch &Battery Tester

ST-5009

30 Intermodal Dr. Unit #37, Brampton, ON L6T 5K1Tel: 905-790-2188 FAX: 905-595-0166Toll Free: Tel: 1-888-SOMAL 99 FAX: 1-877-SOMAL 77

www.somalcanada.comValid while

quantity last

Batteries

$240/1K

$250/1K

$49.90

$16.90

Jaxa Case Opener$49.90

377 $280/1korder.Maxell

Join one of the fastestgrowing jewelry companies.

Join one of the fastestgrowing jewelry companies.

Jewelry designer and manufacturer, Chamilia, is one of the fastest growing brands in the personalized jewelry category and is currently seeking highly motivated sales professionals for various territories in Canada. Sales Agents must have a successful track record, knowledge of the jewelry industry, and a strong network of independent jewelry and/or fashion boutique retailers. Candidates with 5+ years experience preferred. For immediate consideration please visit our career link at http://www.chamilia.com/us/en/about/careers

ALL U

ND

ER

ONE ROOF

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Y�M

PRODUCTS YOU WILL FIND

STONESFOIL BACKSSYNTHETICSGENUINESMARCASITESPEARLS/SEED PEARLSBEADS/BEAD STRANDSROSE CUT GARNETSCONCAVE CUT MYSTIC TOPAZONYX/TIGER EYERUBIES/SAPPHIRES/EMERALDSPERIDOT/BLUE TOPAZCAMEOSSWAROVSKI & SIGNITY STONES8 HEART CZ/9 HEART CZAND MORE...

JEWELLERY/FINDINGS/TOOLS/DISPLAYSWEDDING BANDSMOUNTSTENNIS MOUNTSRINGSCHARMSBRACELETS/BANGLES10K, 14K, 18K, PLATINUM &STERLING SILVER JEWELLERYCHAINSITALIAN JEWELLERYFINDINGS/METAL FINDINGSTITANIUM/TUNGSTEN &STAINLESS STEEL JEWELLERYJEWELLERS TOOLSAND MORE...

SERVICES WE OFFERENGRAVING OF GOLD, METALS AND GLASS

PHOTO ENGRAVINGLASER SOLDERING

RESTRINGINGWATCH GLASS CUTTING NEW

CHECK ONLINE

NEW ARRIVALJEWELLERY BOXES & DISPLAYS, WATCH STRAPS, RECLOSEABLE POLY BAGS

FAMILY RING CATALOGUECOMING SOON

NEW

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!

Happy

Birthday

Krohn Industries, Inc.

Cohler Enterprises, Inc.

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES

� riving metals arts studio/shop for sale in central Ontario in bustling progressive town. Full metal arts studio in the rear and a boutique-like shop in the front, renovations completed in 2005,� e building also has a 1000 sq. � , apartment above the shop ideal as a residence or investment. � e building is situated on the main st and backs onto a river, For more information and photos please refer to www.picasaweb.google.com/jeweldesign56 and email [email protected].

B U Y I N GBROKEN/CHIPPED DIAMONDS

CENSOR – SINCE 1917212-764-7130 IMMEDIATE PAYMENT!

OWN YOUR OWNRECESSION RESISTANT

FRANCHISE!World’s Largest Jewellery

and Watch RepairFranchise is Looking to

Expand in a Mall Near You.Make money for yourself andtake control of your future!

• High Traffic Locations• Extremely High Gross Margins• Low Inventory Costs• 25 Year Proven Record• Full Training, No Exp Nec.

WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY!(800) 359-0407www.fastfix.com

GBA marketing class.:Layout 1 3/24/09 2:35 PM Page 1

LOTUS WATCH CANADALOOKING FOR CANADIAN SALESFORCE

Lotus watch from Festina-Lotus group in Spain, is looking for a sales force in Canada. European design and high quality � nish, product retails from $100.00 to $600.00. Please contact Robert Forget at [email protected] or by phone at 418-569-4625

BUSINESS FOR SALEJewellery Store Closing. All Showcases, Jewellery Displays, Lighting, Safes, Equipment, O� ce Furniture, Synthetic and Genuine Coloured Stones, Diamonds and Karat Gold Jewellery Must Be Sold. Contact La Val Jewellers at 519-433-0003 or visit our web site [email protected]

HELP WANTEDMarciano watches is looking for sales people to represent a fashion watch line with an attractive look and price point. Strong customer base of jewellery and watch stores needed. For more information email your resume [email protected]


classifi edFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please

contact: Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, [email protected] or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected].




sectionhead

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

PAGE

81 GET FREE INFORMATION! SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

on any product advertised in this issue

BY FAXOR MAIL

1. See product you want info on

2. Use this quick reference list below to fi nd its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

3. Write the number(s) on the attached free info card

4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392

5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like

CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

Siffari 2 101

Stuller 3 102

Jewellers Mutual 4-5 103

Blue Point 8 104

Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) 9 105

Chamilia 11 106

O’Neill Diamonds 13 107

Pandora 15 108

Open Blue Networks 17 109

Atlantic Engraving 19 110

Eternal Diamonds 21 111

Nova Diamonds 25 112

Rousseau Chain Imports 27 113

MCD Pearls 27 114

Pacifi c Urns 33 115

Butterfl y Gems 41 116

Vianna Brasil 51 117

Selling area of your store under 1,000 sq.ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft. 3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft. over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume under $500,000 $500,000 - $1 million $1 million - $5 million $5 million - $10 million $10 million - $20 million over $20 million

Categories you personally manage Retailer Designer Gemologist Supplier Manufacturer Other _________________________________

Which category best describes your business classifi cation? Education Retailer Manufacturer Wholesaler Importer Designer Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) Other: ________________________________

Number of employees at your location 1-3 4-8 9-12 over 13

Number of locations: ______________________

Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________

Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________

Company Name: ___________________________________________________________

Address: _________________________________________________________________

City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________

Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________

Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________

2. Use this quick

Ready Mounts 53 118

Sanghavi 59 119

Low Cost Leader 61 120

the Smart Jewelery Show 63 121

Inkas 65 122

Jomark 83 123

Mirage Creations 84 112

Atlanic Engraving Ltd. 16 124

Mirage Creations 16 125

Pandora 16 126

Jeweler’s Mutual 18 127

Jomark 18 128

Chamilia 18 129

JSN Jewellery 20 130

Vianna 20 131

Stuller 20 132

Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON

USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE

Reserved exclusively for retailers

Example

101

STEP 1 STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

To qualify, check circles:

* FREE Info Card & Subscription To receive free information you must print clearly and fi ll out form completely.

081.CJ_FaxBack.indd 81 2/11/10 1:36:48 PM

lastword


Imagination is the beginning of creation. You imagine

what you desire, you will what you imagine and at last

you create what you will.

— Paul Aguirre

As a long-time fan of David Tishbi, I have often thought his designs break the barrier between the old the new, and the traditional and the unconventional. With over a decade under his belt, David has brought his designs to the forefront, attracting a loyal following of clients. With his collection handcrafted in Israel, we chose a piece that shows his unique “two-tone” process, juxtaposing gold and sterling silver. This oxidized and hammered spinner ring is exotically textured, and the gradually flaring edges

contain three two-toned spinning bands in sterling silver and 14k gold. It’s the perfect blend of raw, organic creativity with polished sophistication. Valued at $399.

Writer GeorGe Bernard ShaW once Said:

“”

082.CJ_LastWord.indd 82 2/11/10 10:18:58 AM

JOMARKDISTRIBUTORS

Luxurious... Opulence... LavishnessFirst in Distributing the

World’s Finest Italian Jewellery!

John Di ScolaTel: (416)606-0369 Fax: (905)264-8419 email:[email protected]

Diemme� eChic, cla� ic, outstanding enriching and ve� atile jewels.

Jomark.indd 10 12/21/09 10:51:42 AM


cjFebMar10_Jomark_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 3:36:42 PM

Mirage Creations Inc.221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4

Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]

PRM200 PRM215

PRM257


cjFebMar10_Mirage_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 3:37:15 PM

Documents

Canadian Jeweller Magazine - February Issue