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Broken Ceramics Into Art Grout Sealer Flowerpots Picture Frames Rags Tile Grout Rubber Gloves Craft Sticks Hammers Putty Knife Rubber Mallets Safety Glasses Tile Adhesive Instructions: Look at the pieces of ceramic with a new eye: as raw material for art. Figure out how much area the  pieces will cover and whether they're small enough to work with. Break up bigger pieces carefully. Place them in a pillow case or old sock and tap them - not too hard, but not too softly - with a hammer. Stop when you have pieces small enough to lie flat on the surface to which you'll attach them. Choose the object you will decorate. Consider a wide picture frame for pieces of smaller objects, a flowerpot or - if you have lots of pieces - the top of an end table. Determine whether you have enough shards to cover the surface you've chosen. Remember that if you don't have quite enough, you can fill in with pieces of another item or even small decorative tiles. Purchase mosaic adhesive (available in most craft stores) and tile grout in any color you like. Create your design by placing the pieces on the surface until you've achieved a pattern you like. Remove the shards to a work surface, preserving the design while you prepare the surface and the shards. Make sure the surface and your shards are dust-free. Apply a thin layer of mosaic adhesive to the surface to be decorated and to the backs of the larger shards, then attach the shards to the object. Apply tile grout to the gaps between pieces with a putty knife, a craft stick or your rubber-gloved fingers. Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth. Wait for the grout to dry, and your work of art is done!

Ceramics and Mosaics Craft (Middle Adulthood)

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Broken Ceramics Into Art

Grout Sealer Flowerpots

Picture Frames RagsTile Grout Rubber GlovesCraft Sticks HammersPutty Knife Rubber MalletsSafety Glasses Tile Adhesive

Instructions:

Look at the pieces of ceramic with a new eye: as raw material for art. Figure out how much area the pieces will cover and whether they're small enough to work with.

Break up bigger pieces carefully. Place them in a pillow case or old sock and tap them - not too hard, but

not too softly - with a hammer. Stop when you have pieces small enough to lie flat on the surface towhich you'll attach them.

Choose the object you will decorate. Consider a wide picture frame for pieces of smaller objects, aflowerpot or - if you have lots of pieces - the top of an end table.

Determine whether you have enough shards to cover the surface you've chosen. Remember that if youdon't have quite enough, you can fill in with pieces of another item or even small decorative tiles.

Purchase mosaic adhesive (available in most craft stores) and tile grout in any color you like.

Create your design by placing the pieces on the surface until you've achieved a pattern you like. Removethe shards to a work surface, preserving the design while you prepare the surface and the shards.

Make sure the surface and your shards are dust-free. Apply a thin layer of mosaic adhesive to the surfaceto be decorated and to the backs of the larger shards, then attach the shards to the object.

Apply tile grout to the gaps between pieces with a putty knife, a craft stick or your rubber-gloved fingers.Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth. Wait for the grout to dry, and your work of art is done!

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MOSAIC TILES

For an indoor project not subjected to moisture, it is very simple:

1. Draw a simple "cartoon" (outline) on the mosaic surface. You can copy a mosaic pattern from acoloring book  or your favorite pattern of china or fabric.

2. Decide what size mosaic tiles are most appropriate for the level of detail in the design (don't use1" tiles to make details that are 1/2"). Lay a few tiles down just to make sure the colors look right

together.3. Glue the tiles to the surface one at a time. Make sure the gaps between the tiles are about 1/8 inch

or less.

4. After the glue cures for 24 hours, grout the mosaic with regular tile grout.

5. For more complicated designs, you can lay the project up on mesh (by gluing sparingly withWeldbond adhesive), or you can pick up the tiles with clear contact paper. In either case, the nextstep would be to spread glue or cement on the surface and press the sheet of mosaic onto the glueor cement.

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Instructions Things you need:

•  Acrylic Sheets•

Latex Tile Grout• Palette Knives• Grout Brushes• Soft Rags• Sponges• Latex Gloves• Plastic Bags• Newspaper• Pencils• Colored Pens• Notebook Papers• Hammers• Safety Glasses• Tile Adhesive• Tile Nippers• Colored pens• Plastic bags• tiles, pottery chips, or other mosaic fodder

○ 1 Draw your design on a piece of paper with markers or colored pencils.

○ 2 Lay out the pieces of tile on the paper to be sure that you have enough

pieces of each color.

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○ 3 Remove the tiles and lay a sheet of clear acrylic over the design.

○ 4 Apply a layer of adhesive to the back of each tile using a palette knife, and

place it in the correct position.

5 Try to keep less than a 1/8-inch space between the tiles.

○ 6 Spread grout over the entire project after you have all the tiles in place. Make

sure you get the grout down between all the tiles, and make it level with the tile tops.

○ 7 Use a damp sponge to wipe off the excess grout from the tile faces while the

grout is still wet.

○ 8 Let the grout dry and polish the tiles with a clean, damp cloth.

○ 9 Glue protective felt pads on the back of the piece when it's dry if you plan to

use it as a trivet or coaster.

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Tiles Flower potTile Adhesive PaintPaint brush Rubber GlovesPutty Knife Rags

Instructions:

Figure out what will be the design of your project.

Paint the flower pot of your chosen color.

Apply a layer of adhesive to the back of each tile using a putty knife, and place it in the correctposition on the flowerpot.

Keep placing your tile on the flower pot until you finish your design.

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How it works...

The first step in the mosaic process is to selectyour mosaic surface and tesserae (mosaic pieces).

You can draw your initial design on paper, directlyon your piece, or lay it out in tesserae on yoursurface.

Apply adhesive to your surface. Lay down youradhesive in sections. Apply your tesserae. Placeeach piece on top of your adhesive as desired. Youneed to leave a minimum of 1/8" between each

tile to leave room for grout. You can space your pieces out further if you like. A good rule ofthumb is a 1/8" minimum and 1/2" maximum space between pieces.

Lay down your next section of adhesive. Work in small areas at a time. This keeps your adhesive

from drying out if you are working slowly. It will also give you stopping points if you want to takea break. You don't have to do a project in one sitting. Work section by section until your piece iscompletely covered as illustrated.

Take it home while you allow your adhesive to dry completely (24-48 hours) before grouting.Grouting is very easy! If you picked a picture frame or mirror, remove the glass or cover it withpaper before starting.

Add 1 teaspoon of water to grout at a time until you get a thick toothpaste or peanut butteryconsistency. The grout should be more creamy than watery. If the grout is too thin, let it standuntil thickened or add more grout. The ratio is approximately 3 parts grout to 1 part water.

Apply grout on top of your mosaic design with your fingers or a trowel, like you were icing a cake.

Make sure it gets into all of the nooks and crannies in between the tessera. Once you havecovered the entire piece, wipe off as much excess grout as you can with your hands.

Then let it set for about 20-30 minutes or until the grout becomes hazy. Wipe the haze andsmooth out any lumps with a slightly dampened sponge or paper towel. Then go over your piecewith a dry cloth to remove any remaining haze or residual grout. Once dry, buff with a soft cloth.

Extra Touches: Want a different color of grout? Ask for the white grout at checkout, then addsome acrylic paint to it while mixing it with water. You can also finish the edges of your mosaicshape at home by painting with acrylic.

Grouting your mosaic is easy, but if you need us to take care of it for you, we can do the grouting

for a $10 minimum service charge (additional for larger or more complex pieces). It will be readyto be picked up in 5 days.

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EditStep 1 — Mosaic Table

• Before you start breakin’ stuff and gluing everything down, it can be helpful to make a plan. This tabletop is a simple

pattern, with the color used sparingly in the design. There’s not much structure — just a bright border with a few chips

of color mixed in with the black and white china. This makes the mosaic a somewhat spontaneous creation. If you

have greater ambitions for the mosaic, it’s crucial to draw out your design in advance. Use colored pencils to map out

placement in full color. This step will allow you to work faster, and with very satisfying results.

• CAUTION: Breaking glass and ceramics is dangerous. I’m talking flying shrapnel here. Wear the goggles. Use the

gloves. Cover everything with a towel. Don’t get hurt!

EditStep 2 — Choose and prep your mosaic surfaces.

• Mosaics can be created on any surface that you can glue something to. Be certain that your choice is sturdy, as tiles,

adhesive, and grout can be quite heavy. For this project, select a wooden table that has ample weight-bearing

tolerance. Then clean your surface (the tabletop) and make sure it’s dry.

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• If the tabletop is smooth, it will need some roughing up. Sanding and gouging will help the adhesive bond well to the

wood. Use 80-grit sandpaper to scuff the wood. Don’t be concerned with unevenness. With an old saw, score the

tabletop. Drag the saw horizontally across the table to grate it further.

EditStep 3 — Choose your tile.

• This might be the best part of the whole project! Mosaics are eye-catching and meaningful because of the tesserae

— the colorful bits of tile and pottery that make up the mosaic. Every crafter is drawn to her individual aesthetic, or 

has a color scheme she is partial to. Let these variances in your personal art guide your choices when creating and

gathering tesserae. If you like, you can try not to purchase anything new for your mosaic. Use leftover tiles from your 

neighbor’s bathroom, or save favorite dishes that have cracks and chips. Including meaningful pottery in a mosaic is

a wonderful reuse. Choose colors and patterns you like, and don’t forget to consider the grout — it’s also available in

many colors.

EditStep 4 — Break it up.

• Historically, Roman and Byzantine tesserae were smalti: opaque glass cubes that were cut with a chisel. Other 

tesserae included small pebbles, coins, and mirrors. For this project, we’ll make the tesserae by breaking up larger 

ceramic tiles and old plates. There is no perfect method for creating tesserae — while you can get pretty close most

of the time to the shape you want, there’s always an element of surprise when breaking things. If you’re using glass, it

can be scored with a glass cutter to increase the chance the glass will break along a particular line. Mosaic glass

cutters are useful

• To prevent the pieces from flying through the air with great force, wrap the dish to be broken in an old rag. With the

heavier hammer, hit the plate once in the center, through the rag. Check to see how the pieces look. If you’d like to

make them flatter, or to achieve a specific look, rewrap them in the towel and use the lighter hammer to chip away at

them.

• Breaking ceramic tile is similar to breaking plates, with a few differences. Some tiles, when hit with a hammer, tend to

crack into perfect pieces, while others crumble away. This has to do with the tile itself, but you can adjust your 

breaking technique if you notice the tiles are crumbling. Set the tile on top of a hammerhead, drape it with a rag, then

gently hit it with another hammer. Breaking tiles over a fulcrum like this will give you greater control over the final

pieces, and should cause a good crack, instead of a bad crumble.

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• Once you’ve broken the tile into pieces, it can be broken down further using tile nippers. Place a piece of tile in the

nippers, cover it with a rag, and then squeeze the nippers. They will break the tile fairly accurately every time. Tile

nippers are invaluable for creating (mostly) square tesserae.

EditStep 5 — Stick it on.

• Choose a tub of pre-mixed tile adhesive and follow the manufacturer’s directions. Wear rubber gloves for this task.

• It’s important to keep the adhesive off the front of the tile. Try as hard as you can to keep it all on the back. This will

save you a lot of work in the end. If adhesive does end up on the front of the tile, you must clean it off.

• With a trowel, smear a thin layer of adhesive over your tabletop. Once the first layer of adhesive has been spread,

you’ll have to work quickly to set the tesserae before the adhesive dries, usually about 45 minutes. So, with that in

mind, only cover as much of the surface with adhesive as you can cover with mosaic pieces in that time. If the

adhesive does dry before you set your pieces on it, scrape it with the trowel and, if necessary, add another thin layer 

of adhesive.

• Select the first of your tesserae and cover the back with a thin layer of adhesive. Then place it on your surface. Cover 

the next mosaic piece with adhesive and set it very close to the first, aiming for about ¼"–1" of space between them.

Continue to lay out all the pieces in this way.

• When mixing plates with tiles, you’ll find that different pieces have different thicknesses. Smear a thin layer of 

adhesive onto the thick pieces, and a thicker layer of adhesive onto the thin ones. The goal is to have a flat surface,

so the amount of adhesive will need to be adjusted to keep all of the tesserae level.

EditStep 6 — Cure and clean.

• After setting all the pieces, use a damp sponge to wipe off any stray adhesive while it’s still wet. Let the mosaic dry

according to the directions on the adhesive. Generally this will take about 24 hours.

• After 24 hours, return to the project and scrape off any bits of adhesive that may be stuck to the front of the tesserae.

Also remove adhesive that may be stuck in between the pieces. You want to ensure that the space between the

pieces will be filled with grout, not glue.

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EditStep 7 — Grout your masterpiece.

• Put on a fresh pair of rubber gloves, then mix the grout as directed on the package. The grout should be on the thick

side — a nonpourable consistency. Be certain to thoroughly stir in the water. Scrape down the sides of the bucket;

there should be no dry grout in the mix.

• Drop a good amount of the mixed grout onto your tabletop (and its fresh mosaic). Using a trowel, cover the surface,

and fill in all spaces with the grout. The edges will need some shaping, so use your fingers and hands to press the

grout around the edges, and to sculpt the top and sides. Massage the grout in well.

• Let the grout dry for a short time, again referencing the product’s directions. In about 10–30 minutes it should be set

well enough to begin removing the excess. Scrape away any grout that will come off with the trowel. Then use a wet

sponge to very carefully clean up the tesserae. If you moisten the grout too much, you’ll remove it from where it has

set in between the pieces. The best technique is to dab it gently with the sponge. After most of the excess grout is

removed, there might still be thin smears of grout on the pieces. Use a paper towel to clean them up even more.

• It can be tricky to get the table clean while the grout is wet. Just remove as much as you possibly can, and once the

mosaic has dried, you can gently scrape the rest away.

EditStep 8 — Finish with a last cleanup.

• Once the grout has dried (generally after another 24 hours) the table can have its last cleanup. Brush or scrape away

any grout left on the surface of the tesserae. If you plan on using the table outside, seal it with a tile and grout

sealant. Otherwise, your hard work is done, and you’ve got wonderful, lasting art!

• Some very complicated patterns do not lend themselves to being placed spontaneously. If you’re interested in making

a design and want to lay out the tesserae first, consider using the indirect method. Draw a pattern on butcher paper,

and then use craft glue to stick the tiles in place, facedown on the paper. Once the tiles have been glued in place,

carefully lift the paper and invert it onto a surface that has been prepped and covered with tile adhesive. Remove the

paper from the front of the tiles by wetting it with water to dissolve the craft glue.

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Tile Mosaic Serving Tray

Materials

• A few leftover tiles

• Rimmed serving tray

• Tile cutter 

• Hammer 

• Tile adhesive

• Trowel 

• Grout 

• Rubber float 

• Putty knife

The patterns chosen for a serving tray will vary depending on the size, shape, and colors of tiles

used as well as the size and shape of the tray. Crafters should start by selecting one tile or grouping

of tiles for the center and lay it out inside the tray without using adhesive. Next, they can measure

and study the remaining tiles determining how many to cut for the smaller pieces that will make arow around the central pattern. Finally, a fun method eliminating the need for exact measurement is

breaking the tiles up with a hammer and filling in the outer edges of the tray with the broken pieces.

It’s important to wear goggles when cutting tile to protect eyes from flying debris or dust.

for Laying a Tile Mosaic

1. Measure the tray and draw a line from top to bottom and side to side. 

2. Use the trowel to coat the back of the tile for the center with adhesive and place on the tray. 

3. Use the tile cutter to score and cut tiles to surround the central tile. 

4. Lay out the next row to see if it looks right. 

5. Apply adhesive and place in tray. 

6. Smash tile with a hammer for the outer edges of the tray. 

7. Spread adhesive with the trowel and place the broken tiles in a tight pattern that fills in the tray. 

8. Scrape adhesive that has bulged from the cracks, and wipe it from the tiles’ surface. 

9. Allow adhesive to dry according to the label’s directions. 

Instructions for Finishing a Tile Mosaic with Grout

1. Be sure to wear rubber gloves for this part of the project. 

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2. Follow the instructions closely when mixing water and grout powder. 

3. Hold back a little powder in case the mix is too watery. 

4. The grout should be firm, but not crumbly. If crumbly, add a little water; if watery, add a little more powder. 

5. Use a putty knife to dig out some grout and drop it on your project. 

6. With the rubber float, push the grout into all the cracks. 

7. Run the corner of the float along the cracks to even out the grout line. 

8. Allow grout to harden, but not dry completely. 

9. Before the grout dries, use a damp towel to wipe the film from the tiles. 

10. When grout is dry, polish the tiles with a dry towel. 

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Grout Sealer WoodTile Grout Rubber GlovesCraft Sticks HammersPutty Knife Rubber MalletsSafety Glasses Tile AdhesiveRags

Instructions:

Make little pieces of tiles. Break up bigger pieces carefully. Place them in a pillow case or old sock andtap them - not too hard, but not too softly - with a hammer.

Draw a circle enough to fit the picture. Consider a wide picture frame for pieces of smaller objects.

Purchase mosaic adhesive (available in most craft stores) and tile grout in any color you like.

Create your design by placing the pieces on the surface until you've achieved a pattern you like. Start  putting adhesive to the tiles and place them on the board. Remove the shards to a work surface, preserving the design while you prepare the surface and the shards.

Apply tile grout to the gaps between pieces with a putty knife, a craft stick or your rubber-gloved fingers.Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth. Wait for the grout to dry.

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Mosaic Flowerpot

Top of Form

Bottom of Form

Total Time Needed: 1 Hour 

Materials

• Newspaper 

• Pieces of broken pottery, tiles, beads, marbles, beach glass, shells or charms

• Ceramic tile grout (available at hardware stores)

•Plastic knife

• Terra-cotta flowerpot

• Sponge

Instructions

1. Cover the work area with newspaper. Before starting to decorate the pot, sort through the pottery pieces and

discard any that have sharp edges (a parent's job).

2. Spread a heavy layer of tile grout onto the flowerpot with the plastic knife. Then press the tile pieces into the

wet grout. When finished, spread a little more grout between the pieces so that most of the broken edges

are covered.

3. After the pot is dry, wipe off any grout film with a damp sponge.

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Pebble Mosaic

You've probably seen magnificent mosaic decorations made from glass and stone in a church or museum. Now you

can make your own pebble mosaic !

©2007 Publications International, Ltd.

Make a pebble mosaic.

What You'll Need:

• Plywood or particle board

• Craft glue or tile grout

• A variety of pebbles

Step 1: First collect lots of pretty pebbles in different colors and shapes to use to make your mosaic.

Step 2: If you like, first use a pencil to draw a design on a piece of plywood.

Step 3: Glue the pebbles on the design. Or, spread the plywood with grout, and push the pebbles into the grout.

A pebble mosaic makes a good trivet to use for holding hot pots. You can also make pebble mosaics to decorate

flower pots, vases, or lamps. What else could you decorate with pebbles?

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1. POTTERY DISH.

2. WOODEN SPOON.

3. WOOD GLUE(transparent).

4. GLITTER POWDER.

5. ACRYLIC COLORS.

6. MOSAIC .

7. SANDPAPER GLASS.

STEPS:

1. Clean up the pottery dish with sandpaper first.

2. Color the pottery dish with white color.

3. After the color is dried out you can bloom the pottery dish with your favorite color.

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4. Paint pottery dish with wood glue and then paste mosaic and leave to dry for more than 5 hours.

NOTE:

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 You can replace mosaic and put glitter powder in step4

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Mosaic Plant Pot Project

July 2004, by John Poetzel

Here's a description of my stained glass mosaic pot project, with pictures!

I grabbed a 10 inch terra cotta pot from Home

Depot for this mosaic project. I decided to useall cement based products for the mortar and

grout so I didn't do any priming or sealing of the pot. When you do a mosaic on something

that will be getting wet, like a pot, you will wantto use a sealer or primer if you want to use

Weldbond or some other kind of glue. Since themortar I am using is cement based I figured it

would stick well enough to the clay without any

other preparation.I mixed up the mortar to a nice thick, creamyconsistency and I grabbed some glass to start

the mosaic project...

I thought I'd do a blue and white theme for thisproject.

I'll be using yellow stained glass later for therim but I didn't know it when I took this picture.

This picture show some of the stained glasspieces which I buttered with mortar and then

stuck on to the pot.

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And here I decided to spread mortar around

the bottom rim and then place pieces intothe mortar. When you do a mosaic you can

do it either way, it just depends on how fastyou go and which method you prefer.

This is the bottom part of the pot with stained

glass all the way around. I decided to switchcolors for more contrast.

And here it is all done as far as mosaic glassplacement goes. You should leave it for at least

24 hours to dry at this stage before grouting. Iactually waited a week just because of other

time constraints.

Here are the next items I needed for the mosaicproject. I always use gloves when doing grout work

because the cement in the grout can really eat yourskin. For round projects like a pot, it is easier to use

your hands to apply the grout because of the irregularsurface. For flat projects a grout float or old spatulawork well.

I'm using sanded grout for this project because the

spaces in the mosaic are bigger than 1/8". If you have

small grout lines of 1/8" or less, you can useunsanded grout for smoother look.

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I mixed up some Oyster Gray grout to a nicethick creamy consistency.

This isn't the dainty part of the project. You

have to push the grout into all the cracks andsmooth it all over the place. This is why I use

my hands (with gloves) for this type of 

grouting.

Just more of me pushing that grout in...

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OK, here's the ugly phase of the project. You

need to leave all the excess grout on therefor 20 minutes to a half hour to let the

cement start to set up. Don't worry aboutcleaning it off the glass parts until the next

couple of steps.

You can see that it's a bit drier here. It's

been about a half an hour and I took itoutside because this part is rather messy.

Using a very wet sponge you need to justsoftly rinse the cement off the mosaic glass

portions without rubbing it out of the cracks.The more water in the sponge the better and

the less pressure the better.

Just letting the water run down the piecegets a lot of the excess off the glass.

This is as clean as it needs to be for the first

rinse off. Don't worry about the haze andother parts at this point. The grout still needs

some time to become firm in the cracks.

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Here it is 2 hours later. Ready for a nice wipedown with a soft damp cloth. The glass will

look hazy at this point and the cloth will getit off.

I used a towel with a little water to clean up

the glass, trying still not to disturb the grout

in the cracks.

Here's the finished pot. I wiped it down and

I'll let it sit overnight to continue drying. If 

there are any parts that still need cleaning I'lluse a sponge to get it wet and clean things off the glass. This looks pretty shiny and done to

me at this point and I'll just mist it with waterin the morning to keep the grout drying

evenly.

I hope you enjoyed the pictures.

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For an indoor project not subjected to moisture, it is very simple:

1. Draw flower outline on the mosaic surface. You can copy a mosaic pattern from a coloring  book or your favorite pattern of china or fabric.

2. Decide what size mosaic tiles are most appropriate for the level of detail in the design (don't use1" tiles to make details that are 1/2"). Lay a few tiles down just to make sure the colors look righttogether.

3. Glue the tiles to the surface one at a time. Make sure the gaps between the tiles are about 1/8 inchor less.

4. After the glue cures for 24 hours, grout the mosaic with regular tile grout.

5. For more complicated designs, you can lay the project up on mesh (by gluing sparingly withWeldbond adhesive), or you can pick up the tiles with clear contact paper. In either case, the nextstep would be to spread glue or cement on the surface and press the sheet of mosaic onto the glueor cement.

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Instructions Things You'll Need

• 220-grit sandpaper• Paintbrushes• Short-napped paint roller• Oil-based primer• Oil-based paints• Lead pencil (optional)• Stencils (optional)

○ 1Prepare the tile for the paint---paint will not stick to the slippery surface unless it is prepped.

Clean the tile with a commercial tile cleaner that is mildly abrasive.

○ 2Sand the tile with 220-grit sandpaper. It's faster to do this with an orbital sander, but it can be

done by hand. After sanding the area to be painted, dust it off and apply the primer.

○ 3Use a high-quality oil-based primer that has adhesive. This will ensure that your design sticks to

the tile.

○ 4Use a paintbrush or a short-napped paint roller to apply the primer. Follow the directions

regarding the drying time, then apply a second coat.

○ 5Take a fresh piece of 220-grit sandpaper and lightly go over the area you have primed. This will

remove any bumps and burrs and ensure a smooth surface for your paint.

○ 6Select oil-based paints for your tile craft. This paint is durable and won't easily nick. It takes

longer to dry but is better suited for this type craft.

○ 7Paint your tile a solid color or get creative and paint some designs to match the other decor in

your home. If you are painting a design, use a stencil or draw the design on the tile with a lead pencilfirst. Allow the art to dry thoroughly between coats. Make sure the top coats of paint are semigloss or high gloss; this will help protect your artwork.

○ 8Clean the drips and the mess with paint thinner and a supply of clean rags.

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Instructions

 Things You'll Need• Clay (low-fire earthenware)• Under-glaze• Clear glaze• Pin tool• Craft knife•  Wooden dowel or small rolling pin• 2 wooden rulers• Bamboo skewer•  Assorted stamps• Leaves and flowers• 2 small wooden boards• High-temperature wire• Beading wire or string• Jump rings

1. Making Pendants

○ 1Cut off the clay that you will need from your slab. Roll this clay out about 3/8 of an inch thick for 

flat shapes and pendants. You can do this with a clay roller, or with a rolling pin using two woodenrulers as guides.

○ 2Cut out the shapes you want from the rolled out clay. Stamp or carve into the clay to decorate

your medallions, pendants and charms. You can also place leaves on the clay and use a rolling pinto flatten in the leaf, or use stamps or anything you can find around your house with interesting

texture.

○ 3Make a hole in the pendant where you would want to attach the cord for a necklace. Make two

holes, one on either side, if you want to attach cord, a necklace chain or jump rings on both sides.

○ 4Dry your pendants and charms between two wood boards so they don't curl up in the drying

process. Let dry for a few days.

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2. Making Beads

○ 1Roll clay in long thing coils (or snakes) to the thickness that you want your bead to be. If you want

to imprint a pattern onto the beads, roll the coil into something with texture or draw designs with a

pin.

○ 2Cut the beads to the size you want them to be using a pin tool or craft knife.

○ 3Make a hole in the center of the bead with a bamboo skewer.

○ 4Place all beads on a wooden board and cover lightly with a piece of plastic. Let dry for a few

days.

3. Firing, Glazing and Using

○ 1Fire the beads and pendants in a kiln.

○ 2Paint the beads and pendants with underglaze. Let them dry well before painting with or dipping

in clear glaze, making sure to keep the holes free of glaze.

○ 3String the glazed beads on high-temperature wire to fire a second time. (Many ceramic artists

create a small ceramic structure with high temperature wire sticking out of it and use this to fire their beads every time). Fire flat ceramic pendants on kiln stilts so that they do not stick to the kilnshelves.

○ 4String the beads and pendants onto beading wire or string to create a basic necklace or bracelet.

Combine them with other beads, attach them to one another with jump rings or combine them withany other type of jewelry-making technique to create one-of-a-kind ceramic accessories.