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Circular Fashion: AnOxymoron?
Francesco Molinari, TCBL ProjectTrondheim, 14 June 2016
A burnt-out problem
o The fashion and textile industry is the world’s second most polluting (after oil).
o Producing a single t-shirt and a pair of jeans can use over 20,000 litres of water and up to 8,000 different chemicals.
o Unsold garments are often discarded into landfill where their slow decomposition produces harmful carbon emissions.
Representatives from all stakeholder groups are taking note. Governments, NGOs, activists and consumers are pushing for change, and companies are being held increasingly accountable for their sustainability practices.
The Sustainable Angle/UKFT
Greenpeace ‘Detox’ programme (2011- )
The ‘Detox Catwalk’
‣ assesses how committed companies have performed against key criteria; these include how they are working to eliminate known hazardous chemicals from their products and processes, and what steps they are taking towards full supply chain transparency
‣ More at http://blog.stepchange-innovations.com/2013/11/detox-catwalk-greenpeace-launches-new-type-fashion-brand-catwalk/
The Textile & Clothing value chain
Take Make Use Dispose
Source: UsAgain, 2012
Explored solutions
‣ Cascading = successive uses of a component or material across different value streams (example: Clothing à Furniture à Insulation material)
‣ Collection for recycling (however, only 25% of clothing is actually collected at end of use)
‣ ‘Detox’ voluntary compliance (often prevented by lack of non polluting alternatives)
‣ Second hand clothing (supposedly used by 70% of the world population)
Example of cascading (source: EC, 2014)
Example of ideal recycling (source: Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2012)
Mixed reuse behaviour (source: USAgain, 2012)
However…
‘Detox Catwalk’ results
‣ 10% of the global retail fashion industry has committed to get rid of toxic chemicals by 2020
‣ LEADERS are Benetton, C&A, Coop Switzerland, Esprit, Fast Retailing (Uniqlo), G-Star Raw, H&M, Inditex (Zara), Levi Strauss, Limited Brands (Victoria’s Secret), Mango, Marks & Spencer, Puma and Valentino.
‣ GREENWASHERS are Adidas, Li-Ning and Nike.
‣ LAGGARDS are Giorgio Armani, Bestseller, Only the Brave, Gap, Metersbonwe, PVH Group (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger) and Vancl.
Increasing pressures
New consumer trends
New tech trends
New (mass) consumer behaviours
New marketing opportunities
Implications for our discourse on the Circular Economy
1) Not all that is circular is good
2) What is linear can be bettered
3) Major impacting trends
Socio-economic
• Globalisation of markets
• Persistent financial crisis
• ‘New thrift’ diffused behaviour
Socio-cultural
• Ethical purchases
• Slow and Sustainable Fashion
• Social media amplification
Technological
• DIY, Maker economy
• New materials and tools
• New production processes
Business Models
• Internet economy
• Design for disassembly andrepurposing
• Reputation based marketing
The project
Textile and Clothing Business LabsH2020 GA 646133
A network of Business Labs
nurturing a EU wide infrastructure forbusiness model innovation
‣ Design Labs: ideation and conception ‣ Designing products and services in new ways,
with new approaches, with new criteria
‣ Making Labs: material production‣ Focus on the actual making and production of
machinery and materials
‣ Place Labs: knowledge, territory and production‣ T&C industry as a vehicle for social innovation
A Growing Community
TCBL Principles Associate Selection Criteriacuriosity Ability to identify problems of relevance to the industry.
Interest in engagement with innovation initiatives.Willingness to learn and experiment.
viabilityMarket relevance of issues raised.Alignment with relevant trends.Added business value.
durabilityCommitment to the environment.Commitment to durable design.Scalability of sustainability approach proposed.
multiplicityDisciplinary and cultural richness.Orientation to customer needs.Business model innovation potential.
openness Contribution to shared resources and services.Willingness to adopt open innovation.Commitment to transparency.
respect Soundness of authorship, IPR and privacy policies.Respect for supply chain business information.Social responsibility and fair trade practices.
responsibilityAvailability of appropriate resources and facilities.Capacity to implement business projects.Quality assurance.
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http://project-tcbl.eu/tcbl2016
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a global movement transforming the clothes we wear…do you want to be part of it?
