Craftsman-style screen house - Reader's ... - Reader's …us.readersdigest.com/images/offer/fh/project_plans/pdf/FH98SEP...PROJECT PLAN Craftsman-style screen house This article originally

®

PROJECT PLAN

Craftsman-stylescreen house

This article originally appeared in The Family Handyman magazine. For subscriptioninformation, visit www.familyhandyman.com

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32 SEPTEMBER 1998 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

ScreenScreenCraftsman-Style

HouseHouse

wWhen I was a kid, my mom and dad wouldpack us into the station wagon and headup to the North Woods for a whole week tobeat the city heat. We always stayed incabin No. 10, tucked between two mam-moth white pines. The cabin wasn’t much:a little kitchen, a tiny bedroom and a modest sitting room. The screened-in frontporch was bigger than all the other roomsput together.

Although we did a lot of fishing androck skipping outdoors, we spent the bulk of the week on that porch, playingcheckers, hearts and old maid; readingcomic books; and of course, sleeping.Even though the porch had see-throughscreened walls from floor to ceiling, it felt cozy.

That porch was the inspiration for thisCraftsman-style screen house. It’s bigenough for two families to while away thebest of days in. The warm glow, and thefresh scent of cedar, plus the detaileddoors and a gorgeous 1x6 cedar boardceiling, make the inside of this screenhouse as inviting as its outside.

Theperfectoutdoorretreat.

by David Radtke

ouseouse

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 1998 33


PLANNINGThis is not a small-scale project. At itslongest points (the roof overhang) itmeasures just over 18 ft. long and 15-1/2 ft. wide. Keep these numbersin mind as you look for a place to nes-tle your structure. We shoehornedour screen house into the back yard ofan average-size city lot and crowdingthe existing fence and surroundingtrees. This nestling effect made it lookas if the screen house grew into its surroundings.

Before you do any digging, calllocal utilities (gas, electrical, phone,cable) to locate any buried lines. Alsomake some plans to get rid of theextra dirt and sod you’ll dig up. Weended up with about 1-1/2 cu. yds.to haul away.

TIME, TOOLSAND COSTA project like this requires a fairamount of carpentry experience. Ifyou’ve built a wooden yard shed, acomplex deck or an intricate fence,you’ll have the confidence to tacklethis project. It’ll also take a hugechunk of time, so plan to take a coupleof weeks off work along with a fewdedicated weekends (now is the timeto call in all those favors from friendsyou’ve helped over the years).

You’ll need basic carpentry toolsfor this job, with additional help froma table saw and router. You’ll need acouple of stepladders for this projectas well; I recommend a 6-ft. and a 12-ft. I also rented a section of 6-ft.scaffolding for about $30 a day to helpwith the roofing. Figure on spendingabout $3,500 for materials (see Cut-ting List, p. 50) and get as much deliv-ered to your home as possible.

Our porch is built over a heftyfoundation of 6x6 preservative-treated pine timbers sunk in acrushed-rock base. Upright timberposts at each corner are notchedand lag-bolted to the buried tim-bers. Each post is also lag-screwedto 2x6 treated joists. The joists holdthe posts firmly in place and pro-vide a decay-resistant frameworkto elevate the cedar decking aboveground level. The spectacular openrafter roof is supported by cedarheaders bolted to the posts and by

C r a f t s m a n - S t y l e S c r e e n H o u s e

stationary doors fastened to the cor-ners. The curved corner brackets notonly provide elegant detailing toeach corner, but act as reinforcedstructural bracing (whatever you do,don’t eliminate them).

Making the finely detailed doorsis simplified by building a jig to holdthe door parts square for accurateand foolproof assembly. The same jigalso holds the door securely forstretching the screen, stapling it tothe frame and then applying the dec-orative door moldings.


SEE FIG. C FORFOUNDATION PLAN

SEE FIG. D FORROOF FRAMING

SEE FIG. E FORRAFTER DETAILS

SEE FIG. F FOREAVE DETAILS

SEE FIG. H FORCORNER DETAILS

SEE FIG. G FORDOOR ASSEMBLY

INSTALL THROW-BOLTSAT TOP AND BOTTOMOF DOORSTOP P7

NOTE: Building codes in some regions require additional seismic and high-wind anchors. Ask your building inspector about local requirements.

P6

K

J

P6

P5

P3 P4

P2

P7

P1

E2, E4M2,

M4M1, M3

E1, E3

LI, H1

L2, H2

K2

Story Number—1428Story Name Screenhouse (Perspectives) Issue—September 1998Editor—Dave RadtkeArt Director—Bob UngerTech Art Version—2F 6/24/98

Fig. A Overall Details

Fig. B Completed View

.60 TREATEDTIMBERS FORBEAMS (A)

CRUSHEDROCK

MISTREATEDCARPENTER

2-3/4" x 5-1/2"NOTCH

1/2" x 5"LAG SCREWS

SOCKETWRENCH

A

B

VERTICALPOST

2x4BRACES

JOISTS(C1)

3/4" SPACEBETWEEN3/4" SPACEBETWEEN

STRINGLINE

JOISTBLOCKS(C2)

JOISTBLOCKS(C2)

3/4"SPACER3/4"SPACER

1/2" x 3-1/2"LAG SCREWS1/2" x 3-1/2"LAG SCREWS

LEVEL the 6x6treated beams (A)over a trough ofgravel. The gravelhelps drain excesswater and provides astable bed for thefoundation. Spreadgravel along eachbeam, leaving onlyabout 1 in. of thebeam exposed.

FASTEN thenotched uprightposts (B) to theouter foundationbeams (A) with1/2-in. x 5-in. galvanized lagscrews and wash-ers. Be sure toplumb and bracethe posts as youdrill a 3/8-in. pilothole for each lagscrew.

INSTALL the joists ateach end first, thenstring a line betweenthem. Align the endsof the other joists 3/4 in. from the string(use a spacer block oneach end joist asshown; see “For MoreInformation,” p. 50).Then tack them inplace, mark them andjoin them with blocks.The joists that buttagainst the postsmust be lag-screwedto the sides of theposts to keep themfrom racking out ofalignment.

THEFOUNDATIONOnce you’ve staked out your perimeteron well-drained level ground (see Fig. C for the foundation dimensions),you’ll need to dig trenches for the 6x6treated beams (A). (Be sure they’re .60treated, rated for underground protec-tion. Special-order them if necessary.)Follow the foundation plan in Fig. C forthe correct placement. Dig each trenchabout 10 in. deep and 12 in. wide. Filleach trench with about 5 in. of crushedrock (we used crushed limestonebecause it packs well).

Now cut the beams to length and laythem in the trench (Photo 1). Levelthem with each other and make surethe diagonal measurements from theends of the two outer beams are equal.This ensures that the foundation willhave square corners. The beams shouldsit proud of the surrounding gradeabout an inch so the joists that lie overthem can clear the soil. Once the beamsare in place, pour crushed rock aroundthem to lock them into position.

The next phase involves setting theposts (B) onto the beams. First, cutthem to length and notch the bottom asshown in Photo 2. Measure in from theends of the outer beams (A) as shownin Fig. C. Get a helper to hold thenotched end of the post perfectly verti-cal (plumb) on the beam and alignedwith the mark. Drill two 3/8-in. pilotholes through the post and into thebeam. Now insert your lag screws (1/2 x 5 in.) and washers and tightenthem (Photo 2). Repeat this for eachpost. TIP: If you’re working alone, youcan tack each post into position withnails and 2x4 braces.

Now you can lay in the joists asshown in Photo 3 and Fig. C. The joiststhat connect to the posts must be cutand blocked as shown in Fig. C. Youcan cut and block each pair of remain-ing joists, or you can overlap 10-ft.joists on the center beam. Just be surethe joists that butt against the posts are


1

2

3

36 SEPTEMBER 1998


16"

32"

48"

160" (OUTSIDE OF BEAMS)165-1/2" (OUTSIDE OF POSTS)

24-1/4"

24-1/4"

133-1/2"

182"

214" OVERALL (211" JOIST SPAN)

80"

NOTCHPOSTBOTTOM2-3/4" x5-1/2"(TYP.)

CL

C3

AA A

C1

C1

B

B

B

C3

D

C2

C2

HEADERSThe upper headers (E1, E2, E3 and E4) fas-tened from post to post (Fig. D) are themain support for the roof. The stationarydoors that fit later under the lower headers(M1 and M2) help support the roof as well.

When you install the inner headers (E1and E2), be sure your posts are plumb andthat the distance from post to post is identi-cal at the top and bottom of the posts. Lag-screw (1/2 x 3-1/2 in.) the inner headers tothe posts as shown in Photo 5, then nail theouter headers over the inner headers with apair of 10d galvanized nails every 16 in.

5/4 x 6"CEDARDECKING

NAIL the 5/4 x 5-1/2 in. decking (D)to the tops of the joists with 10d fin-ish nails. If your decking feels moistwhen you’re nailing it, butt the sidestight. If the decking feels dry, leave a1/16-in. space between the boards forexpansion during wet weather.

16"16" 16" 16"

16"

16"

16"

32"(RIDGE)

66-3/4"66-3/4"

165-1/2"

133-1/2"

14-1/2"

14-1/2"

CL CL

CL

E1

E3

F

G1 G1

G1

G3

G3G4

G4G5

G5

G6

G6

G2

G2

H1

H2

L1

L2E3

E1

E2E2 E4E4

BB

Story Number—1428Story Name Screenhouse (Plans) Issue—September 1998Editor—Dave RadtkeArt Director—Bob UngerTech Art Version—2F 6/24/98

screwed to the posts with 1/2 x 3-1/2 in.lag screws, and all the joists are toenailedwith three 16d galvanized nails where theyoverlap each foundation beam.

To finish off the foundation, nail thefive-quarter (5/4) decking (D) to the joistswith 10d galvanized casing nails.

C r a f t s m a n S t y l e S c r e e n H o u s e

4

Fig. C Foundation Plan

Fig. D Roof Framing

THE RAFTERSThink of these supports as a structuralskeleton to hold the roof skin in place.Our roof has three basic types ofrafters: common, hip and jack. Pickyour lumber for the rafters carefullybecause they’ll be visible when theproject is finished.

The common rafters (Photo 6) areall the same length and have the samemiter cut at the top and the same“bird’s-mouth” or notch cut near thebottom. Cut them to the dimensionsin Fig. E and nail them to the ridgeboard (F). Support the ridge boardtemporarily with a 12-ft. 2x6 toe-nailed to the decking and to the ridgeitself. The top of the ridge should beroughly 123 in. up from the decking(you may need to raise or lower itslightly for a tight fit for the miter cutson the rafters). Once you like the fit,fasten all the common rafters to theridge board with 16d galvanized nails.Nail the rafters through the ridgefrom the back to hide the nailheads.

The four hip rafters (Photo 8) restover each corner and meet the ends ofthe ridge board. You’ll notice that theupper miter is a compound cut. Thismiter angle differs from that of thecommon rafters (Fig. E), and you’llnotice it has a 45-degree bevel cut oneach side along with the miter cut.This allows the hip rafters to fit snuglybetween the common rafters. Thebird’s-mouth notch is also unusualbecause it sits at an angle to the com-mon rafters. You can leave a bit ofextra length at the overhang of eachhip rafter and trim it to final lengthonce the other rafters are in place.

The jack rafters (Photo 8 and Fig.

E) rest on the header just like the com-mon rafters and have the same degreemeasurement at the top. However,the edge of the jack rafter has a 45-degree bevel (a cheek cut) so it fitstight against the hip rafter. Toenail

COMMONRAFTERS(G1)

RIDGEBOARD (F)RIDGEBOARD (F)

OUTERHEADERS

E3E4

TEMPORARYVERTICALSUPPORT

TEMPORARYVERTICALSUPPORT

COMMONMAN

SCREW the innerheaders (E1 and E2)flush with the top ofthe posts. Drill a 1/2-in. deep recesswith a 1-1/4 in. spadebit, then a 1/2-in. dia.clearance hole for thelag screws. Be sureto drill a 3/8-in. pilothole into the post.

INSTALL the com-mon rafters (G1)first. These raftersare all identical andget nailed to theridge (F) above andto the headersbelow. Temporarilysupport the ridgewith a long 2x6nailed to the deckingand to the ridge.

COMPOUNDANGLESETTING

ADJUSTABLESPEEDSQUARE

CUT the compoundangles for the hip andjack rafters. Remem-ber that oppositehips and jacks aremirror images ofeach other.

7

6

INNERHEADERS

E2

1/2" x 3-1/2"LAG SCREWS

NOTECOUNTERBORE FORLAG SCREW HEADS

E1

5



Continued on p. 43


each of these cheek cuts to the side ofthe hip with three 8d galvanized nails.Note that the cheek cuts (Fig. E) oneach side of the hip rafter are mirrorimages of each other.

When you’re finished installing therafters, nail the subfascia (H1, H2) tothe tails of the rafters and install the2x6 lower headers (M1, M2) directlybeneath the upper headers. Also nail(8d galvanized casing) the 5/4 headertrim (M3, M4) to finish off the transi-tion between the upper headers andthe lower header.TIP: Before you set the roof boardsover the rafters, nail temporary 2x4braces on two sides of the structure,from the middle of the header diago-nally to the bottom of the post. Thiswill minimize any racking during thebuilding process.

HIPRAFTER(G2)

JACKRAFTERS

HIPSHORTS

NAIL the jack rafters to the hip rafters(8d galvanized) and to the headerbelow (16d galvanized). Sight all thetails to make sure they’re aligned.Trim slightly if necessary.

5-5/16"

133-1/16"74°

1-9/16"

45° (BOTH ENDS)

45°

45°

1-9/16"

31-1/4"

23"

3-3/4"

80-7/8"

53-13/16"

63-9/16"

36-1/2"

46-3/16"

19-3/4"

30-1/2"

3-7/16"

97-3/4"

68°

70-11/16"

95-7/16"

TOP VIEW

TOP VIEW

CUT 4 EACH WAY(TYPICAL)

HIP RAFTER

COMMON RAFTER

JACK RAFTERS

G6

G5

G4

G3

G1

G2

Story Number—1428Story Name Screenhouse (Rafters) Issue—September 1998Editor—Dave RadtkeArt Director—Bob UngerTech Art Version—1F 6/24/98

K2—16" SHAKES;5-1/2" EXPOSURE,1" OVERHANG

BUILDING PAPER

LAG BOLT

3/4"2x6 RAFTERS (TYPICAL)

E1, E2 E3,

E4

M1, M2

H1, H2

L1, L2

P3, P4

K

B

M3, M4

N

J

Story Number—1428Story Name Screenhouse (Eave detail) Issue—September 1998Editor—Dave RadtkeArt Director—Bob UngerTech Art Version—1F 6/24/98

8

Fig. E Rafter Details

Fig. F Eave Details


Continued from p. 39


ROOFINGMuch of the beauty of the inte-rior comes from the 1x6 cedarboards visible between therafters. These boards alone,however, aren’t enough to givestability to the structure, sothey’re backed with 5/8-in. CDXplywood. The plywood also addsenough thickness to keep theshingle nails from pokingthrough the underside of theroof.

First, nail the 1x6 roof boardsto the rafters (Photo 9) with 8dnails. Start at the bottom flushwith the ends of the rafters andwork your way to the top, leavinga 1/8-in. clearance between theboards. Overlay the plywoodonto the 1x6 and nail it throughthe plywood and roof boardsinto the rafters with 10d nails.

Once the plywood layer iscomplete, nail the finished fascia(L1, L2) over the subfascia andalign it with the bottom edge ofthe plywood. Next, roll on the30-lb. roofing felt and overlapeach layer by 3 in. Then nail theNo. 2 cedar shingles to the roofdeck (Photo 11) with 4d galva-nized nails (follow the position-ing instructions that come witheach bundle). The first course ofshingles must be double thick-ness and overhang the fascia (L1,L2) by 1 in.

You’ll need to trim the cedarshingles to conform to the angleabove the hip as you lay them.Once you’ve finished shingling,cover the gaps over the hip byripping 4-in. wide pieces of shin-gle to create a cap over the hipsand ridge.

H2H1

SNAP CHALK LINEHERE FOR CUT

CEDARSUBFASCIA

CEDAR ROOFDECKING (J)

SERIOUSFASCIA

CEDARSUBFASCIA

H1

H2

5/8" CDXPLYWOOD

FASCIAL1, L2

DOUBLE THICKNESSON FIRST COURSE

30-LB.ROOFINGFELT

NO. 2 CEDARSHINGLES5-1/2"

EXPOSURE

1"OVERHANG

INSTALL the shinglesover 30-lb. roofing feltusing 4d galvanized boxnails. Overhang the shin-gles 1 in. beyond the faceof the fascia.

NAIL the 1x6 cedar roofboards (J) to the tops of therafters after installing thesubfascia (H1 and H2) overthe exposed ends of therafter tails. Leave a 1/8-in.space between the boardsand alternate end joints sothey don’t all fall on thesame rafter. We used acombination of 12-ft. and 8-ft. long boards. Finishopposite sides first, thentrim the board ends tolength all at once (set yourcircular saw at a 15-degreebevel).

INSTALL the 5/8-in.CDX plywood over thetop of the 1x6 cedarroof boards. Use 10dnails to secure the ply-wood through the roofboards to the rafters.Leave a 1/8-in. gapbetween plywood pan-els to allow for weatherchanges.

9

10

11


44 SEPTEMBER 1998


ROUT the laps for thedoor frame joints using ahomemade router jigscrewed to a plywoodwork surface. The doorframes are made from2x4 and 2x6 cedar. Theside stiles and top rail are 2x4. The bottom railis 2x6.

ASSEMBLE each doorusing a jig to ensure eachframe is square. Applyconstruction adhesive tothe lap joints on eachcorner, then screw theparts of each lap jointtogether with five 1-1/4in. decking screws. Keepthe screws at least 1 in.from the edges of theframe because you’llneed to trim the door tosize later.

FINISHEDLAP

STOPBLOCK

ROUTERJIG

ROUT TOHERE

Q

Q

BLOCKS

R1

LAPJOINTS

R2

1-1/4" GALV.SCREWS

CONSTRUCTIONADHESIVE

MAKINGDOORSMaking the doors is the most time-con-suming part of the project, so we brokeit down into manageable tasks. Sinceyou can build them in the garage on awork table, it’s the perfect job for rainydays.

First cut the door stiles (side pieces)and the rails (upper and lower horizon-tal pieces) to length. Then set up a sim-ple jig (Photo 12) to use with yourrouter to make the half-lap joints on theends of all the stile and rails. Use a 3/4-in. straight bit. If you have a radial armsaw, you could make the half laps with adado blade.

ALUMINUMSCREEN

FLIP the door over onceyou’ve assembled theframe. Cut your 30-in. widescreen to length (leave anextra 2 in. on each end forstretching) and staple it tothe frame every 2 in. with1/4-in. staples. It’s best tostart at the top and workyour way down each sidefor a tight-fitting screen.

12

13

14


S5

S5

S1

Q

Q

R1

R2S3

S2

S4

S4S4

S4

1/2 x 1-1/4"NOTCH

5"

HALF-LAP CORNERS

DOORPULL

SELF-CLOSING HINGES

5" SPACES(TYP.)

Story Number—1428Story Name Screenhouse (Door assembly) Issue—September 1998Editor—Dave RadtkeArt Director—Bob UngerTech Art Version—2F 6/24/98

Fig. G Door Assembly

SEPTEMBER 1998 47

TEMPORARY DECK TO ROOF BRACINGREMOVED FORPHOTO CLARITY

5/4 x 5/4FLOORCLEATS

INSTALLthe floorcleats (P1and P2) evenwith theouter edgesof the posts.Then fastenthe cleats tothe station-ary doors to securethem to thedecking.

1/2" x 3/4"SCREENMOLDING

1/2" x 1-1/4"DOOR BARS CUT your screen

molding andmuntin trim tosize from 2x6cedar using atable saw. Attachthe screen mold-ing to the doorframe using 3dgalvanized finishnails.

The next step is to set up a 3/4-in. thick, 4 x 8-ft. plywood work surface over a pair ofsawhorses. Use scrap wood to make blocks(Photo 13) to hold the door parts square.

Before you apply screen to the door frames,flip them over so the screws are on the back andthen staple the screen as shown in Photo 14.Once the screen is applied to the doors, you cancut the moldings (see Fig. G) from 2x6 cedar(use a table saw) and nail them to the doorframe with small screen molding nails.

INSTALLING THE DOORSBefore you install the doors, nail the cleats to thedeck (Photo 16) and the upper doorstop to theinside edge of the lower header. It’s best to use astring line to mark the deck to get the floorcleats positioned in a straight line. To align thedoors properly in the opening, find the center ofeach side and measure each door width (mark itoff on the deck) back to the corners.

You may have to trim each door’s heightslightly to fit the opening. The stationary doorsshould fit snugly, and the operable doors need3/16-in. clearance on the bottom and 1/8-in. onthe top. Screw the corner doors to the post (thedoor edge should cover roughly half the post),the upper doorstop and the lower floor cleat.The longer side has an additional door, whichshould be positioned tight to the corner doorand nailed to the floor cleat and the upperdoorstop.

The operable doors (the double doors on thefront and back, and the single on the long side)must be shimmed on the bottom and top(Photo 18). This will hold them in place whileyou screw the self-closing hinges to the adjacentstationary door frame and the swinging door.Remove the shims and make sure the operabledoors swing freely. To finish the door system,you’ll need to install the vertical stop (P5, P6,P7) as shown in Fig. A to the back of the doors.This trim runs from the floor cleats to the upperdoorstop, covers the gaps between the doorsand finishes off the interior.

Finish each exposed post with a cedar 2x4and a 2x6 (T1 and T2; see Fig. H) that are rippedto width and then cut to length. Be sure thefront of the screen house has the wider piece tooverlap the longer side post trim.


15

16

UPPERDOORSTOP (P3)

FIT each station-ary door, trimmingthe top or bottomif necessary. Onceeach stationarydoor fits snuglyfrom the floor tothe header, screwit to the upperdoorstop (P3) andthe floor cleats (P1and P2) with 2-in.galvanized screws.

17



SHIMSELF-CLOSINGHINGES

BRACKETSUPPORT(U1)

CURVEDBRACKET(U2)

CURVEDBRACKET(U2)


18

19

ATTACH the free-swinging doors tothe stationary doorswith self-closingface-mountedhinges. Use threehinges per door andmake sure each doorhas a bit more than1/8-in. clearance onall sides.

INSTALL the eightcorner brackets (U2)to the bracket cleats(U1) with 3-in. gal-vanized screws. Thecorner brackets arestructural as well asdecorative. See Fig.H for details.

THE CORNERBRACKETSCut the bracket supports and the curvedcorner brackets (U1, U2) as shown inFig. H. Notice that the top of the bracketsupport is notched to fit over the headertrim. Screw the bracket supports(predrill all these holes) to the cornertrim with 3-1/2 in. galvanized screws(use three screws for each bracket).Next, screw the curved corner bracket toeach bracket support (two screws oneach side) and to the upper jack rafter(four 3-in. screws here).

Now you’re ready to clean up thework site and enjoy the rest of the sum-mer in your beautiful outdoor space.

DOOR FRAME

DOOR FRAME

1" REVEAL

NOTCH TOPS OF U1 TO FIT HEADER TRIM

EACH SQ.=2"

HEADERTRIM (M4)

G6

G2N

G6

G5

M3

U2

U2

U2

U2

U1

U1

U1

T2

T2

T1

T1

B

B

Story Number—1428Story Name Screenhouse (Corner bracket) Issue—September 1998Editor—Dave RadtkeArt Director—Bob UngerTech Art Version—2F 6/24/98

Fig. H Corner Details




Hardware & Miscellaneous

ITEM QTY.Crushed rock 1 cu. yd.1/2” x 5” galv. lag screws 8 1/2” x 3-1/2” galv. lag screws 2416d galvanized nails 5 lbs.10d galvanized casing nails 15 lbs.8d galvanized nails 5 lbs.4d galvanized nails 15 lbs.3d galvanized finish nails

(screen molding) 2 lbs.2” galvanized screws 2 lbs.3” galvanized screws 2 lbs.3-1/2” galvanized screws 2 lbs.30-lb. roofing felt 400 sq. ft.1/4” staples 3 small boxes 30” black aluminum screen 120 ft.

For More Information

n “Pro Tips for Successful Measuring andMarking,” May ‘98, p. 79.n “Using Tools,” March ‘98, p. 25. Getting rid ofgrass.n “Using Tools Special Section: CircularSaws,” June ‘94, p. 32.n “Using Tools,” March ‘95, p. 18. Chalk boxes.n “Using Tools,” July/Aug. ‘96, p. 13. Routerbasics.

P4 2 5/4 x 2-3/4” x 122-1/2” cedar (upper doorstop)*

P5 4 3/4” x 2-3/4” x 78-1/8” cedar (vertical doorstop)*

P6 8 3/4” x 2-3/4” x 79-1/4” cedar (notched vert. doorstop)*

P7 2 3/4” x 2-3/4” x 79” cedar (swinging vert. doorstop)*

Q 36 1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x 80” cedar (door stiles)

R1 18 1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x 32” cedar (door top rails)

R2 18 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 32” cedar (door bottom rails)

S1 108 1/2” x 1-1/4” x 28” cedar (horizontal door bars)

S2 18 1/2” x 1-1/4” x 74” cedar (vertical door bars)

S3 18 1/2” x 1-1/4” x 32-3/4” cedar (vertical door bars)

S4 18 1/2” x 3/4” x 17’ cedar (screen molding)

S5 72 3/4” x 2” x 5” cedar (decorative door squares)

T1 4 1-1/2” x 2-3/4” x 80” cedar (corner trim)*

T2 4 1-1/2” x 4-1/4” x 80” cedar (corner trim)*

U1 16 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” x 26” cedar (bracket supports)

U2 8 1-1/2” x 9-1/4” x 36” cedar (curved brackets)*

* Cut to fit

Art Direction • BOB UNGARPhotos • Bill ZuehlkeIllustrations • EUGENE THOMPSONDesign Consultant • LEWIS MORANCarpentry • DAN STOFFEL and JON JENSEN

Cutting List

KEY QTY. SIZE & DESCRIPTIONA 3 5-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 182”

.60 treated timber (beams)B 4 5-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 103”

.60 treated timber (posts)C1 30 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 105-1/2”

.40 treated (joists)C2 15 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 12”

.40 treated (joist blocks)C3 2 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 182”

.40 treated (rim joists)D 39 5/4 x 5-1/2” x 16’ cedar

deckingE1 2 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 165-1/2”

cedar (inner headers)E2 2 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 136-1/2”

cedar (inner headers)E3 2 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 168-1/2”

cedar (outer headers)E4 2 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 139-1/2”

cedar (outer headers)F 1 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 32” cedar

(ridge board)G1 8 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 10’ cedar

(common rafters)*G2 4 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 12’ cedar

(hip rafters)*G3 8 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 7’ cedar

(jack rafters)*G4 8 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 6’ cedar



(jack rafters)*H1 2 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 214”

cedar (subfascia)H2 2 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 185”

cedar (subfascia)J 800 linear ft. of 3/4” x 5-1/2”

cedarK1 11 5/8” x 4’ x 8’ CDX plywoodK2 400 sq. ft. of No. 2 cedar shinglesL1 2 3/4” x 5-1/2” x 217” cedar

(fascia cut from two pieces)L2 2 3/4” x 5-1/2” x 186-1/2” cedar

(fascia cut from two pieces)M1 2 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 165-1/2”

cedar (lower headers)*M2 2 1-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 136-1/2”

cedar (lower headers)*M3 2 5/4 x 2-3/4” x 167-1/2” cedar

(header trim)*M4 2 5/4 x 2-3/4” x 138-1/2” cedar

(header trim)*N 4 3/4” x 5-1/2” x 14’ cedar (outer

rafter blocking)*P1 4 5/4 x 5/4 x 61-1/4” cedar (floor

cleats)*P2 4 5/4 x 5/4 x 29-1/2” cedar (floor

cleats)*P3 2 5/4 x 2-3/4” x 149” cedar

(upper doorstop)*

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Craftsman-style screen house - Reader's ... - Reader's …us.readersdigest.com/images/offer/fh/project_plans/pdf/FH98SEP...PROJECT PLAN Craftsman-style screen house This article originally