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Cross-mixing two historic techniques into one modern day couture dress design By: Allison Mauriello

Cross-mixing two historic techniques into one modern day

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Cross-mixing two historic techniques into one

modern day couture dress design

By: Allison Mauriello

It is firmly believed that the preservation of historical garments is crucial to creating modern-day designs. My inspiration was pulled from two eras throughout the twentieth century. My main inspiration was a 1930’s couture bias-cut dress from the Western Michigan University Historic Garment Collection. The additional technique used was color blocking from the 1960s.

In order for fashion to continue to change and develop, extensive evaluations must be performed on historical techniques to redefine new trends season after season.

The dress is made of silk charmeuse, Dupioni, and hibatii. I hand-dyed it myself using four different colors.

1930s Bias Cut

• Cutting fabric on a diagonal

to give it the most stretch

• Easier to get in and get out

• Clung to women’s bodies to

accentuate the natural form

instead of ‘distorting’ them

with corsets

1929, silk wedding gown1932, Silk Gown

Madeline Vionnet

Geometric Shapes • She based her cutting on circles, squares, triangles,

rectangles, and quadrants.

1930, nightgown with triangular insertsBlack silk vintage dress with squares set

on the bias and connected by

fagoting.

1931, White crepe

Tucks end in pleated

skirt

Handkerchief Dress

• This 1918-19 dress is made of

four rectangles, worn on the

bias

• Not cut on the bias, but

turned to be worn on the bias

1918-19, off-white silk crepe

1960s Color Blocking

• Piet Mondrian - artist from 1917-1931. He

made grid-like abstract paintings

• In 1960s, his work inspired Yves Saint Laurent

to design shift dresses.

1965 wool shift dress

WMU historic garment collection

MODA

MODA

What I Learned

How to cut and sew on the bias

How to problem solve on my own

Practice with boning

How to do sew a rolled hem to finish the handkerchief pieces

Using underlining

Problems I Encountered

Sewing a zipper on the bias

Measuring size of triangles

What I Would Do Differently

Drape the cowl neck before making the front bodice pieces so that it is not separated by a seam.

Redo the zipper

Bring the peplum pieces higher up so it is a more flattering and slimming silhouette fit

References

• College Fashion. (2014). Fashion inspired by art: Piet Mondrian’s color blocking.

College Fashion. Retrieved from

https://www.collegefashion.net/inspiration/fashion-inspired-by-art-piet-

mondrians-color-blocking/

• Kirke, B. (2012). Madeleine Vionnet. San Francisco, CA. Chronicle Books LLC.

• (Madeleine Vionnet), Handkerchief Dress, (n.d.). Retrieved November 18, 2019

from https://witness2fashion.wordpress.com/2015/09/09/biased-in-favor-of-

vionnet-and-ericson-part-2/

• (Madeleine Vionnet), Nightgown with triangular inserts, (1930). Retrieved

November 18, 2019 from

https://witness2fashion.wordpress.com/2015/09/09/biased-in-favor-of-vionnet-

and-ericson-part-2/

• (Madeleine Vionnet), Handkerchief, (1932). Retrieved November 10, 2019 from

https://agnautacouture.com/2013/05/12/madeleine-vionnet-master-in-

manipulating-fabric/

• (Madeleine Vionnet), Silk Gown, (1932). Retrieved November 10, 2019 from

https://agnautacouture.com/2013/05/12/madeleine-vionnet-master-in-

manipulating-fabric/

• (Madeleine Vionnet), Silk Wedding Gown, (1929). Retrieved November 10, 2019

from https://agnautacouture.com/2013/05/12/madeleine-vionnet-master-in-

manipulating-fabric/

Thank You!