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It is firmly believed that the preservation of historical garments is crucial to creating modern-day designs. My inspiration was pulled from two eras throughout the twentieth century. My main inspiration was a 1930’s couture bias-cut dress from the Western Michigan University Historic Garment Collection. The additional technique used was color blocking from the 1960s.
In order for fashion to continue to change and develop, extensive evaluations must be performed on historical techniques to redefine new trends season after season.
The dress is made of silk charmeuse, Dupioni, and hibatii. I hand-dyed it myself using four different colors.
1930s Bias Cut
• Cutting fabric on a diagonal
to give it the most stretch
• Easier to get in and get out
• Clung to women’s bodies to
accentuate the natural form
instead of ‘distorting’ them
with corsets
1929, silk wedding gown1932, Silk Gown
Madeline Vionnet
Geometric Shapes • She based her cutting on circles, squares, triangles,
rectangles, and quadrants.
1930, nightgown with triangular insertsBlack silk vintage dress with squares set
on the bias and connected by
fagoting.
1931, White crepe
Tucks end in pleated
skirt
Handkerchief Dress
• This 1918-19 dress is made of
four rectangles, worn on the
bias
• Not cut on the bias, but
turned to be worn on the bias
1918-19, off-white silk crepe
1960s Color Blocking
• Piet Mondrian - artist from 1917-1931. He
made grid-like abstract paintings
• In 1960s, his work inspired Yves Saint Laurent
to design shift dresses.
1965 wool shift dress
What I Learned
How to cut and sew on the bias
How to problem solve on my own
Practice with boning
How to do sew a rolled hem to finish the handkerchief pieces
Using underlining
What I Would Do Differently
Drape the cowl neck before making the front bodice pieces so that it is not separated by a seam.
Redo the zipper
Bring the peplum pieces higher up so it is a more flattering and slimming silhouette fit
References
• College Fashion. (2014). Fashion inspired by art: Piet Mondrian’s color blocking.
College Fashion. Retrieved from
https://www.collegefashion.net/inspiration/fashion-inspired-by-art-piet-
mondrians-color-blocking/
• Kirke, B. (2012). Madeleine Vionnet. San Francisco, CA. Chronicle Books LLC.
• (Madeleine Vionnet), Handkerchief Dress, (n.d.). Retrieved November 18, 2019
from https://witness2fashion.wordpress.com/2015/09/09/biased-in-favor-of-
vionnet-and-ericson-part-2/
• (Madeleine Vionnet), Nightgown with triangular inserts, (1930). Retrieved
November 18, 2019 from
https://witness2fashion.wordpress.com/2015/09/09/biased-in-favor-of-vionnet-
and-ericson-part-2/
• (Madeleine Vionnet), Handkerchief, (1932). Retrieved November 10, 2019 from
https://agnautacouture.com/2013/05/12/madeleine-vionnet-master-in-
manipulating-fabric/
• (Madeleine Vionnet), Silk Gown, (1932). Retrieved November 10, 2019 from
https://agnautacouture.com/2013/05/12/madeleine-vionnet-master-in-
manipulating-fabric/
• (Madeleine Vionnet), Silk Wedding Gown, (1929). Retrieved November 10, 2019
from https://agnautacouture.com/2013/05/12/madeleine-vionnet-master-in-
manipulating-fabric/