Crossing the Mexican-American Border, Every Day the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic check cars entering Mexico for guns and money, according to Tony Payan, the director

Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic

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Crossing the Mexican-American Border,

Every Day Thousands of people in the El Paso-Ciudad Juarez region live a binational existence. Its not easy.

ALANA SEMUELS | JAN 25, 2016 | BUSINESS

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Alana Semuels

EL PASO, TexasShe leaves university around 5 p.m., just as the sun is

falling behind the dark mountains to the south, and steers her white

Honda Civic down the hill toward the border. Its a short drive, maybe

10 minutes, past the fast-food restaurants and strip malls of El Paso

and over the I-10, where Texans sit in traffic to head home to the

suburbs, then alongside the two fenceselectric and brown metalthat

divide Texas from Mexico.

Then, she waits. Valeria Padilla is accustomed to waitingfor four

years she has commuted from the home she shares with her mother

and grandmother in Ciudad Juarez to the campus of the University of

Texas-El Paso, where she, like many other Mexican nationals, qualifies

for in-state tuition. But the wait used to be to get into the United

States. Now, she waits to get out, too.

Its horrible right now. Its like, no, no, no to crossing, she tells me,

as she sits in the long line of cars waiting to get out of the United

States. Wait-times to get into Mexico have become longer after U.S.

Customs and Border Protection began requiring Mexican agents to

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check cars entering Mexico for guns and money, according to Tony

Payan, the director of the Mexico Institute at Rice University.

We are truly making the border a difficult MORE FROM OUR PARTNERS place to live. It seems that this is by design,

he told me.

Upheaval in the Factories of Juarez Indeed, as Padilla and I cross the border

after about an hour of waiting, crawling Where Is All the Worlds Money Going? slowly down El Paso streets and then past

gun-toting Mexican agents whose faces areRevisiting a Jim Crow-Era Guide for Traveling While Black covered, supposedly so they wont be

identified for bribery, our car is flagged and

a Mexican agent asks Valeria to pull over

and open her trunk. This is typical, and its the reason that it can take

Padilla an hour or two to travel the three miles from campus to Juarez

on any given day. Traveling from Juarez to El Paso has gotten faster

since she joined a program that allows for rapid border crossing

before, it could take two hours each direction. Now its just the trip into

Juarez that requires a long wait.

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Oh youre lucky today, Padilla jokes to me as we pull over in the dark,

and the agent shines a flashlight in the car.

This is the life of someone who lives on the Mexican side of the border:


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pesos and pennies in the little container between the seats, Chihuahua

license plates and a mining-pick emblem on the back of her car (the

University of Texas-El Pasos mascot is a miner).

Traffic between El Paso and Juarez in 2010 (Alexandre Meneghini / AP)

El Paso is the largest metropolitan area on the Texas border, and the El

Paso-Juarez-Las Cruces region calls itself one of the largest binational

regions in the world, with 2.5 million people. Thousands of people

cross both ways over the border every dayMexican elementary kids

heading to U.S. public schools, U.S. residents working in Ciudad

Juarez, students like Padilla attending U.S. colleges and universities.

But binational doesnt mean unifiednot when its so difficult to get

back and forth between two countries, and when theres such a strong

us-versus-them mentality coming from one side.

When Mexico sends its people, theyre not sending their best. Theyre


http://www.borderplexalliance.org/https://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2016/01/crossing-the-mexican-american-border-every-day/426678


sending people that have lots of problems, and theyre bringing those

problems with us, Donald Trump has said, to cheering crowds.

Hes presumably not talking about Padilla, since shes actually a U.S.

citizen. She was born in El Paso, when her parents lived there, but then

her parents split up and moved back to Mexico. Her father cant cross

into Texas anymore, since someone stole his passport and used it to

run drugs. Her mother simply doesnt want to.


Since she lives in Juarez, she has to deal with the daily humiliations

that anyone who crosses the border has to face, if their skin is brown.

Because she is who she is, she laughs them off.

When you live in Juarez, you know your status. You just say, Okay,

Im going to wait two or three hours in line, she says.

Padillas daily life, and indeed that of many people who live on the

U.S.-Mexico border, makes vivid the weight of the fates that are

determined by accidents of birth. Padilla has more freedom to move

around than many of the kids she went to high school with in Juarez


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because of where her mother gave birth.

But what if Padilla had been born in Juarez? Shed still be the same

person: Valeria who grew up in Juarez, who loves La Nueva Central,

the old timey-caf that serves lattes and pastries and Chinese food in

Juarez just down the street from the cathedral, who prefers her beer

with Clamato juice, absolutely loves her eyebrows and has never dated

a gringo, as she puts it. Shed still be the Valeria who wants to be a film

producer, to head to Hollywood after school if she can somehow find

the money, who is working on a documentary on the strip clubs of

Juarez. Shed just be that Valeria without a U.S. passport and with a

harder life.

Padilla in La Nueval Central, a Juarez cafe (Alana Semuels / The Atlantic)

Not that it has been easy crossing to school every day from Juarez. This

is the first year shes had a car. She took out student loans to pay for it.


https://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2016/01/crossing-the-mexican-american-border-every-day/426678


Walking for three years was miserable. To get to the border crossing

without a car she had to take three buses. Once, she tried to walk and

suffered a heat stroke. Then her mother started dropping her off at the

border. Shed walk over the Bridge of the Americas, the cement

walkway that spans two countries over the dry gulch of the Rio Grande,

under bright spotlights and series of fences, and catch a bus up the hill

to school. She broke her ankle crossing in the winter of 2013. It was icy

and she was running lateshes always running lateand she was

hurrying across the bridge to catch the bus and slipped on the ice. She

convinced her boyfriend to drive her to school so she wouldnt miss

classes. When she finally got home, her mother suggested she could

heal it with arnica, a cream that mothers everywhere say can cure all.

When she finally went to the doctor and found out it was broken, he

assured her arnica would not have worked.


There are other indignities. Padilla overheard a student call her mother

a wetback when the two went to an admitted-students weekend.

Latinos in Texas can be just as judgmental about Mexicans as white

people, she says.

Even though were on the border, people are racist against Mexicans,

she sighs. But youre American, I point out. They still stereotype you

anyways. They see the last name, they hear the accent.


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There was the border-patrol officer who asked her, when she carried a

tripod, if she was transporting a firearm. (She wonders: Did he expect

her to answer yes? Did he think she was that dumb?) There was the

border-patrol officer who would ask her to marry him every day she

crossed on foot, telling her that hed make a nice life for her, that she

wouldnt have to work so hard. He was the first officer she came across

once she got a car he asked her to marry him again. She could get a

nicer car, he said.

Padillas mother never wanted her to go across to school across the

border.

Every day, she was like, You dont have to do this. Come back to

Juarez. You will have money in Juarez, she says. Her mother thinks

its humiliating to wait in the lines to get in and out, to go to school

beside people who look at you and think, wetback. She thinks its

humiliating to pay $150 to the U.S. government and $300 to the

Mexican government to join the Secure Electronic Network for

Travelers Rapid Inspection program, or SENTRI, which allows her to

enter into the U.S. without waiting in line. When Padilla got accepted

as a transfer student into UT-Austin, her mother put her foot down. It

was too expensive and too far away.





Padilla goes to UTEP because she wants to set out on her own. She

wants to be adventurous and escape the bubble of a world her parents

have created in Juarez. If her car breaks down in Juarez, she can call

her mom. If she has trouble with a cranky pharmacist who refuses to

serve her in Juarez, she calls her dad. In El Paso, she needs to figure

things out herself. She figured out how to take two buses to a job at a

tax-preparation office in El Paso that netted her $60 a day and free

food. She figured out how to get elected as a senator-at-large in UTEPs

student government. (She reached fellow Mexican students by walking

the Bridge of the Americas to hand out her campaign literature. She is

the only Juarez resident on the student government.)

Besides, she likes walking between the strange, towering red-and-gold

buildings of the UTEP campus, which were modeled on Bhutanese

architecture. She likes giving tours, pointing out the administration

building featured in the film Glory Road, chatting about the UTEP

basketball teams first-in-the-NCAA all-black starting lineup.


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Padilla on UTEPs Bhutanese-inspired campus (Alana Semuels / The Atlantic)

There arent the same opportunities in Juarez. Her mother, who has a

graduate degree and works for the Mexican federal government, makes

less money than Valeria makes in her minimum-wage job at the

university. One professor who works at UTEP and gets American wages

but lives in Juarez has a house with a cinema and two swimming pools.

Mexico doesnt have the same internships or film classes as Texas has.

Its universities in Juarez dont have the same sweeping campuses and

sports teams as Texas universities do.



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When Padilla graduated from high school in 2011, just about everyone

was trying to get out of Juarez. The violence there had claimed 3,000

lives in one year alone. (In 2014, by comparison, there were 424

killings.) Around that time, Valerias mother, driving down a busy road,

saw a man put a gun to another mans head and pull the trigger. She

saw his head explode.

On the UTEP campus, Padilla and I ran into a friend of hers named

Isaac Bencomo, who left Juarez during the violence, moving in with a

friend in a trailer in El Paso. He finished high school there, went to

UTEP, and has since graduated and is becoming a pediatric nurse

practitioner. He wants to legally immigrate to the U.S.

Personally, Juarez for me is a lot of bad memories, Bencomo told me.

A lot of my friends left. Its just very sad there.

Padilla isnt so sure she wants to forever leave Juarez behind. She loves

walking the streets and seeing the murals of a young Juan Gabriel, a

famous singer from Juarez, of going to the nightclubs and gossiping

with childhood friends in Spanish, of being a part of a community that

is trying to rebuild itself after years of being known as the murder

capital of the world.

Some people dont like their roots, but thats what Im trying to

embrace, she says, after the border agents have let us through to

Juarez and she takes us on an uncrowded highway along the border.

We pass trucks lined up for miles, waiting to enter the U.S., and can see

the bright lights of a stadium of a Texas high school just a few hundred

feet away, on the other side of the border. We visit her high school and

the Plaza de Armas, where we gaze at a historical cathedral with two


http://www.cnn.com/2015/04/21/americas/mexico-ciudad-juarez-tourism/http://www.cnn.com/2015/04/21/americas/mexico-ciudad-juarez-tourism/https://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2016/01/crossing-the-mexican-american-border-every-day/426678

Portraits of the Unseen Domestic Laborers Behind L.A.'s Mansions


picturesque bell towers. Padilla feels at home here, but she wont stay

forever: She knows shed be crazy to give up the opportunity to live on

the other side, among people who maybe dont want her therepeople

who dont think twice about the luck of their birth, who dont have to

wonder about where they belong.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

ALANA SEMUELS is a staff writer at The Atlantic. She was previously a national correspondent for the Los Angeles Times.

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theatlantic.comCrossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic

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Documents

Crossing the Mexican-American Border, Every Day the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic check cars entering Mexico for guns and money, according to Tony Payan, the director