Curved Front Wall Cabinet

8/16/2019 Curved Front Wall Cabinet

1/14

CURVED-FRONT

WALL CABINET

© 2014 August Home Publishing Co.


2/141 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

curved-front

Wall Cabinet

Heirloom Project

If making curved doors has you

over a barrel, try taking a look at the

coopered door technique we used

to build this unique wall cabinet.


3/14

Top panel

Back is madeup of tongue and

groove panels

Adjustable shelf

Door catch

Brassknob

Wrap-around hinge

Doors arebuilt withcoopered

staveconstruction

Curved drawer front is cut from

solid wood blank

Drawer sidesare dovetailed

to front

Front moldingis beveled to

match curvatureof doors

Solid wood side panel "floats" in

rail and stile frame

NOTE: Entire cabis made of solid w

OVERALL DIMENSIONS:

21!/2"W x 10!%/16"D x 30!/2"H

TOP SECTION VIEW(Drawer)

Drawer front and sides are joined

with sliding dovetail

TOP SECTION VIEW(Doors and Shelf)

Shelf and dividers

are curved alongfront edge to match

profile of doors

2 WoodsmithPlans.com WS15632 ©2014 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.


4/14

building the CASE SIDES

From a construction standpoint, the

gently-curved doors on this cabi-net may seem a little intimidatinginitially. But don’t be fooled. Yes —

making curved doors does requirea little extra work compared to flat

doors. But as you’ll discover, it’s notnearly as complicated as it looks.

And if you look past the doors for aminute, the rest of the case is prettymuch like any other cabinet.

CASE.

The case of the cabinet ismade up of two sides joined by

three dividers. Then a top and bottom are added to finish it off.

The only thing that is a bit unusual

about the case is the front edgemolding. It has a profile to matchthe curve of the door. But I’ll explain

more about that later.

SIDES. Starting off, you can make

the two frame and panel sides. Asyou can see in the main drawing

on this page, there’s nothing trickyhere — just a pair of stiles joined

by a top and bottom rail. Stub ten-

ons and grooves are used to jointhe frame pieces (detail ‘a’). And

the solid wood panels are held inthe frames with tongue and groove

joints (see How-To box at left).The side panels fit flush with

the rails and stiles, with a 1/16"shadow line all around. But togive the panels room to expand

and contract inside the frame, Imade the tongues along the edges

of the panels slightly shorter thanthe tongues on the ends. You can

see what I’m talking about in thedetail drawings above.

Once the frames are glued up

around the panels, you’ll need tocut a rabbet along the back edge

of each side to hold a back that isadded later (see detail ‘c’). A secondrabbet cut along the front stiles cre-

ates a tongue for attaching the mold-ing. Then after drilling some shelf

pin holes (see main drawing onthe previous page) you can cut the

Cut groovein two passes

Tall auxiliary

fence

E

Aux.fence

Aux.

fence

Dado

blade

SIDE PANEL

E

C

A

FRONT

STILE

SIDE PANEL

TOP

RAIL

!/4

!/4 !/4

!/4

!/2

(/16

!/2

a.

TOP SECTIONVIEW

E

D

C

FRONT

STILE

REAR

STILE

!/16

!/16

!/16

!/16

!/2

!/2

!/2

!/2

Detail of right sideonly,

left side ismirrored

#/8

!/4

c.

END

VIEW

!/2

!/4

!/4

a. END VIEW

E

Aux.

fence

a.

FRONTSECTION

VIEW

E

A

!/16 !/2

!/4

!/4

(/16

b.

How-To: Tongue & Groove Joint


Cut the Tongue. To cut the tongues on

the panels, bury the dado blade in an

auxiliary fence attached to your rip fence.

Center Groove. To center the groove on

the thickness of the stock, flip the work-

piece end for end between passes



Rout Cove. After beveling the two faces

of the blank, use a core box bit to rout

a cove along the length of the molding.

Lay Out Notches. Slide a layout block

into the dadoes in the sides to mark the

locations of the notches for the dividers.

Cut Notches. Cut the notches with

dado blade, holding the molding tightl

against a miter gauge auxiliary fence.

dadoes for the three horizontaldividers that will be added later.

(See drawing and detail ‘b’ at rightfor dado size and locations.)

FRONT MOLDING. With the sides com-

plete, you can make the moldingthat fits over the front edges. This is

a three-step process. Starting with a

piece of 11/16"-thick stock, bevel twofaces of the molding blank (detail‘a’). Then a cove is routed along theedge where these two bevels meet

(see first drawing in box below).Finally, cut a groove along the back

side of the molding to match thetongue on the front stiles.

Once you have the front mold-ing trimmed to length, the nextstep is to cut three shallow notches

in each piece to hold the divid-ers that will be added later. Here’s

where you want to take your time.The trick is to lay out the notchesas accurately as possible so that the

dividers will slip right into them.As you can see in the second

drawing in the box below, I madea layout block that matched the

thickness of the stock I had setaside for making my dividers (3/4").

The block allows you to mark outthe exact location of the notcheson the inside face of the mold-

ing. Then you simply transfer thelayout lines around the moldings.

To cut the notches, I used adado blade and an auxiliary

fence on my miter gauge. Becauseof the bevel on the edge of themolding, you’ll have to hold

the molding tight against themiter gauge fence as you sneak

up on the depth of the notches.Take a look at the last drawing

in the box below to see exactly

what I’m talking about.Instead of gluing the moldings

on at this point, I found it easierto wait until after I had finished

making and fitting the threedividers (see next page).

F

Transfer linesaround molding

Layout

block Side

assembly dadoes

NOTE: Layout block should match thicknessof dividers ( ")#/4

FRONT

MOLDING

29

#/4

#/4

#/4#/4

#/8

#/4

#/8

#/8

5 !/4

5 !/4

F

F Side panel

Side panel

NOTE: Size notches infront molding to fit divider

stock (see following page)

20°

18°

1!/16

1#/4

#/8

!/4

#/8TOP

SECTION

VIEW

F

Side pane

a.

END

VIEW

F#/8

#/4" corebox bit

Hold moldingtight against fence

Groove iscut after routing

cove

#/8

a.

FRONT

MOLDING

#/8

#/8

#/4#/4

#/4

5 !/4

FRONT VIEW

F

Side panel

b.

F

Hold molding

tight against fence

Aux.fence

SIDE SECTIONVIEW

F Align depthof notch with

bottom of cove

Aux.fence

a.

How-To: Fit the Front Molding



TOP

DIVIDER

MIDDLE

DIVIDER

BOTTOM DIVIDER

G

G

G

Drill and countersink for #6 x 1 " Fh woodscrew !/4

NOTE: Dividers are madefrom " hardwood #/4

NOTE: Cut notches in divider before cutting curved profile

1910

7 %/8

1!/21

6 7

How-To: Notches GDIVIDER

Attach tall auxiliary fence

to miter gauge

G

DIVIDER

Waste Cuts. Remove the bulk of the waste

from the notch area by making a series of cuts,

breaking off the material in between the kerfs.

Clean-Up Cut. A final pass cleans up

the end of the notch. Then a chisel

can be used for the final trimming.

G

Break off wastematerial to

sneak up onnotch width

Notch

width

a.

a.

With the sides of the cabinet com-

plete, you can begin to make thehorizontal pieces that connect them

— the dividers and the top and bot-tom panels. I started by making the

three dividers. As you can see in thedrawing above, these are the pieces

that actually fit between the two

sides of the case. Later, the wholecase assembly gets sandwiched

between a top and bottom panel.

DIVIDERS. The dividers start out as

three identical, rectangular blanks.After sizing the blanks, you can cut

tongues on the ends of each one to

fit in the dadoes you cut earlier inthe side panels (detail ‘a’).

In order to allow the dividers to fitaround the front molding, the front

corners of each divider are notched,as shown in detail ‘b.’ You can cutthese notches by nibbling away the

bulk of the waste on the table saw just like you see in the How-To box

below. But in order to get a precisefit, I pared away the remainingwaste with a chisel. Check the fit

with the side panel and front edgingas you go along.

The goal here is for the dividersto slide into the dadoes and then

into the notches you cut earlier onthe front molding, just as you seein detail ‘b’ and in the photo below

You’ll want to make the notches just

{ Notches in the front corners of the

dividers allow them to fit around the

molding at the front of the case.

fitting theDIVIDERS , TOP , & BOTTOM

G

Divider isnotched tofit around

front molding

Front molding

b.

FRONT VIEW

G

G

#/8

#/8

!/4

#/4

#/4

Side panel

Side panel

a.

G

Side panel rabbet

Back edge of divider panel is flush with

bottomof rabbet

c.



Divider

blank

"hardboard template

(28" radius)

!/4

Top and bottom"-hardboard template

!/4

Top/bottomblank Layout profile

on blank

H

Waste

Lay Out Curve. Using a hardboard tem-

plate, lay out the curve along the front

of each divider and cut it to shape.

Top & Bottom Panels. After laying out

the profile (upper drawing) drill starter

holes before cutting the curve to shape.

Rout Edges. To complete the top and b

tom panels, rout a Roman ogee pro

along the front and sides of both pan

Curved Profiles

deep enough so that when thedivider slides into place, the back

edge ends up flush with the bottomof the rabbets along the back of theside panels (detail ‘c’ on next page).

If this sounds a little confusing, itwill become clear once you have the

actual pieces in front of you.

Once you’ve notched out all threehorizontal dividers, you can lay out

the curved profile along the frontedge of each one. The ends of the

curve should match up with thecorner of the front molding, (see

detail ‘a’). To make this easier, I cre-ated a hardboard template, as shownin detail ‘c’. (Hang on to this tem-

plate. You’ll need it later for makingthe doors and drawer.)

After cutting the curves and sand-ing them smooth, you can glue up

the side panels, front edge moldings,and top and bottom dividers. (Leavethe middle divider out for now

so you’ll have room to attach the bottom panel later.)

TOP & BOTTOM PANELS. The last step tocomplete the case is to add a top and

bottom panel. The blanks for thesepanels are glued up out of solid

wood. Then after cutting the blanksto size, I laid out the profile, usinganother hardboard template (see

detail ‘c’ at right and box below).This profile matches the shape of the

front edge molding and the curveof the dividers.

After cutting the profiles onthe band saw and sanding them

smooth, all that’s left to completethe top and bottom panels is to rout

an ogee along the front and sideedges, just as you see in the finaldrawing in the box below.

The top and bottom panels are

simply screwed to the case frominside the cabinet. Once they’re

securely in place, you can go aheadand glue the center divider into thecase by sliding it in place from the

back of the cabinet.

FRONT

VIEW

H

#/4

#/4

!/4

!/4" radius

Case

side

b.

SIDE SECTION VIEW

H!/4" Romanogee bit

a.

TOP SECTION VIEW

G

H

Curved profile starts at corner

of molding

28"radius

a.

H

H

BOTTOM

TOP

11!/4

9!/4 21!/2

#6 x 1 " Fh

woodscrews

!/4

Install middle

divider after

bottom is attached 28"radius of divider and

drawer front starts at

corner of front molding cove

DIVIDER ANDDRAWER

TEMPLATE(28" RADIUS)

TOP ANDBOTTOM

TEMPLATE(28 " RADIUS)!/2

28 "RADIUS

&/8

2#/8

21

#/8"radius

ENLARGE 400%

c.


8/14

constructing the DOORS

TOP SECTION

VIEW

II

&/8 &/8

!/16

a.

II

&/16 Ball catch

located "from front of divider

&/8 Edge of strike located

" fromedge of door

#/4

Front of divider

c.

TOP SECTION VIEW

IFront molding

!/8"-deep

mortise

!/16 "gap

b.

Now that you have the case com-

plete, you’re ready to start on themost interesting part of this project

— making the curved doors.These doors are called “coo-

pered” doors. A cooper is a personwho makes barrels. And coopereddoors get their name from the fact

that they’re made up of individual

staves — like a barrel. And becausethe edges of the staves are beveled

slightly, they form a gradual curvewhen they are clamped together.

Although this cabinet has twodoors, I decided to glue up one wide

blank and cut the doors apart after

doing all the shaping first. This way,

you can be sure that the profile of both doors is consistent.

The door blank is glued up outof six individual staves cut from7/8"-thick stock. The trickiest partof making the doors is probablygluing up the blank. Because of the

curved shape of the doors, clamp-ing them up is a challenge. So I

made a simple jig (see box at left).The jig has a couple of forms that

match the curve of the doors.The staves are simply placed in

the forms and then wedges areused to force them together whilethe glue dries.

After the blank is glued up, youcan shape the curved surface and

cut the doors to size. (See next pagefor more on how this is done).

The last steps to complete the

doors is to mount them to the caseand add the brass door knobs and

ball catches, like you see in details‘b’ and ‘c’ above.

Base

Form

Form

NOTE: Jig forms are madefrom plywood, base

is " hardboard #/4"

!/4

5

24 22

28" radius

1!/2

3#/8

71°

To glue up the blank for

the coopered doors, I madethis assembly jig. It’s noth-

ing more than a base and a

pair of plywood forms. Each

form has a curve cut along

the top edge to match the

desired curve of the doors.

The forms “cradle” the

staves while small wedges

apply the necessary clamp-

ing pressure to the panel

until the glue dries.

Shop Tip: Stave Clamping Jig



9/14

The coopered doors on this cabinetmay look challenging, but they’re

really not that difficult to build.The trick is in carefully fitting

the staves that make up the door blank so that the glue joints end up

nearly invisible.I started by beveling the mating

edges of the staves at about 3°. I say

“about” because you may have tofine tune the angle just a bit. The

goal is for the staves to fit togethertightly while they are sitting in the

jig. (I found it helpful to number the

staves after fitting them.)After gluing the staves together in

the jig (see previous page), you can begin smoothing out the curve on

the front of the blank. Start by usingyour template to lay out a 28"-radiuscurve on both ends of the blank.

Then you can remove the peaks onthe outer face of the blank with a

block plane (Fig. 2). Finally, a curvedsanding block and some sandpaper

can be used for the final smoothing.Don’t worry about the inside face ofthe door — just scrape off any glue.

The next step is to square up theends of the blank and cut it to length

to match the height of the openingin the cabinet (allowing for a 1/16"

gap at the top and bottom of thedoors). Once this is done, you can

cut the door blank in half to cre-ate the two doors. I taped a couple

of long, beveled strips of wood tomy table saw to help support the

blank and keep it from rocking

(Figs. 4 and 5).After trimming the outer edge of

each door so they fit the openingin the cabinet, you can rout a covealong the front, inner side edge of

each door, as shown in Fig. 6. Thefinal step is to cut the mortises for

the hinges. Take a look at Fig. 7 atright to see how I did this.

How-To:Coopered Door

Technique I

I

Eliminate gapsat beveled edges

3

3

3° bevel

3° bevel Form

WedgeDOOR STAVE

&/8

Draw radius profileon end of blank

Waste

Block plane

Sled

Attach sled to miter gauge

Door blank

Waste

Waste

Tilt blade 18°

Door

Wedge strips

Tight Fit is Best. Fine tune the bevel

angle on the staves until they fit

together without any visible gaps.

Rout Coves. A decorative cove is routed

along the inside edge of each door to

match the front molding of the case.

Cut in Half. To create the two doors, cut the blank

in half down the center joint line. Wedge strips

taped to the saw help stabilize the blank.

Wedge strip

Cut to Width. With your saw blad

tilted 18°, trim the outer edge o

each door to fit the cabinet.

Cut Hinge Mortises. To cut the mortise

for the hinges, a tall auxiliary fence wit

a spacer is attached to the miter gauge

Plane Off Peaks. After laying out the radi-

us profile on the ends of the blank, plane

off the “peaks” where the staves meet.

Cut to Length. A simple plywood cut-of

sled attached to the miter gauge allow

you to trim the ends of the blank.

END VIEW

#/4"corebox bit

!/4

a.

Tall aux.fence

Spacer

!/16

a.

{ Wedges are used to

hold the staves togetherin the jig while the glue dries.

1

2

4

6 7

5

3




SIDE SECTION VIEW

N

M

K

J

Guide acts as stop behind drawer front

Guide sits flush withback of bottom divider

Bottomdivider

Brad

!/4 !/16

#/8

!/4

a.

TOP SECTION VIEW

L

J

Front molding

!/16

#/8

b.

FRONT SECTION VIEW

N

M

L

!/4

!/4

!/4

c.

Shop Tip: Installing the Drawer Guides

Carpet tapeDrawer bottom

Guide is tight against back of drawer front

DRAWER GUIDE

NOTE: Use carpet tape sparingly

N

N

N

Add bead of glue

to guides

N

Position drawer in opening

Separate drawer and guides

after glue dries

DRAWER

GUIDE

Leave small gap

Drawer side

N

a.

Tape Guides to Drawer. Tape the drawer guides in

place to the bottom of the drawer with a couple of

small pieces of carpet tape.

Add Glue. Now run a

bead of glue along the

bottom of each guide.

Position Drawer. Place the drawer in the

opening. After the glue dries, hit the back

of the drawer to separate from the guides.

N

M

L

L

K

J

1 -dia.brass knob

"

DRAWER

BACK

DRAWER

SIDE

DRAWER

SIDE

DRAWER

BOTTOM

!/2 !/4"-wide x "-deepdado for back

DRAWER

FRONT

NOTE: Back and sides are made from" hardwood, bottom is made

from " hardwood, and front ismade from 1 " hardwood

!/2!/4

#/4

NOTE: Drawer front has 28" radius

8 !/4

4#/8

7 %/8

4#/8

3&/8

!/2

15 !/4

16 (approx.)

&/8

15 !/4

DRAWER GUIDES

( " x 1" - 7 ")%/16 #!/32

making the DRAWERTo match the curved profile of the

doors, the front of the drawer iscurved as well. But I used a differ-

ent method here. Instead of staves,the drawer front is cut out of a thick

block of solid wood. Before cutting

the drawer front to shape, however,I cut all the drawer joinery.

JOINERY. The front of the draweris joined to the sides with sliding

dovetail joints. (For more on howI did this, see page 11.) But at the

back of the drawer, I used a differ-

ent joint. The back is held in dadoesthat are cut on the inside face of

the drawer sides. And since the back will rest on top of the drawer

bottom (detail ‘a’), it’s 1/2" narrower

than the drawer sides.DRAWER BOTTOM. The drawer bot-

tom is held in a groove cut in thedrawer sides and drawer front. Butsince the bottom is glued up out of

solid wood, I wanted to make sureit had some room to expand with

changes in humidity. To allow forthis, I made the groove in the drawer

front a little deeper (detail ‘a’).Before assembling the drawer,

I laid out the 28"-radius curve on

the edge of the drawer front andcut it to shape on the band saw.

Then I mitered the ends of thedrawer front to match the angle of

the front molding on the case, as

you see in detail ‘b.’GUIDES. After the drawer is glued

up, you can add the drawer guides.Apart from their main function ofguiding the drawer, the guides

serve a couple of other purposes.First, they raise the drawer up

slightly so that it doesn’t rub on the bottom of the case (detail ‘c’). And

second, they act as stops.The guides are just a couple of

thin strips of wood, so making

them is a piece of cake. The trick ispositioning them inside the drawer

opening. For more on how I did this,see the box below.


11/14

adding the

BACK , SHELF ,

AND CLEATAt this point, the difficult work is

behind you. All that remains now isto add the back and the shelf. And

there’s nothing complicated here — just some basic woodworking.

BACK. Like the rest of the cabinet,the back is made out of solid wood.But instead of one solid, glued-up

panel, I made the back in pieces, asyou can see in the drawing at right.

There are a couple of back panelsthat fit in between a pair of stiles and

a center divider. Tongue and groove joints allow the panels to expandand contract with seasonal changes

in humidity (detail ‘a’).SHELF. The shelf couldn’t be much

simpler. It’s just a solid wood panelthat’s cut to fit inside the case. Like

the dividers, the front edge of theshelf is shaped to match the curvedprofile of the front of the case.

But if you take a look at detail ‘b’

above, you’ll see that the curve flat-tens out at each end of the shelf.

FINISH. Before you can hang thecabinet, you’ll need to apply a fin-ish. To even out the color of the

mahogany, I stained my cabinet

with Bartley’s Golden Oak gel stain.Then I rubbed on a coat of wiping

varnish followed by three coats ofa water-based finish.

CLEAT. When it came time to hangthe cabinet, I thought about drill-ing a couple of mounting holes in

the back of the cabinet and screw-ing it directly to the wall. But if you

ever wanted to move the cabinetto a different wall, chances are that

the holes you drilled in the back ofthe cabinet wouldn’t line up withwall studs at the new location. After

moving the cabinet once or twice,the back would start to look like a

piece of Swiss cheese.So instead, I made a mounting

cleat for the inside of the cabinet (see

box at left). The cleat isn’t glued inplace, so you can simply replace it

with a new one if you ever want tomove the cabinet.

R

Q

P

P

O

O

BACK SLAT

BACK

PANEL

SHELF BACK

PANEL

BACK CENTER SLAT

#/8

Drill and countersink for #6 x 1 " Fhwoodscrews

!/4

NOTE: Shmade fr8 " x 1

"-hardw

b

#/4 #/4

NOTE: Back panels and back slats are made

from "-thick hardwood !/2#/8

#/8

!/4

Shelf pin

7 !/4

7 !/4

2

1!/2

7 #/8

5 %/8

29

TOP SECTION VIEW

Q

P

O BACK PANEL

!/4

2 !/4 1!/2!/8

!/16 "radius

Back sets in

rabbet

a. TOPSECTION

VIEW

R SHELF

!#/16

7 fromback edgeof shelf

#/8"

28"front-of-shelf radius

Shelf pin

b.

S

Cleat

is cut to

fit between

cabinet sides

#8 x 3"Fh woodscrews

3CLEAT

S

Wall stud

Cabinet back

Top divider

!/2

1#/4

Add the Cleat. The cleat is cut to fit

between the cabinet sides. By not glu-

ing it, you can easily replace it as needed.

Hang It Up. Screws are

driven through the cleat

and into the wall studs.

How-To: Hang it Up



12/14

To join the drawer front to the sides

of the drawer on the curved-frontcabinet, I used a sliding dovetail

joint (see photo). Although it maylook complicated, all you need to

make this joint is a router table anda 1/2" dovetail bit.

I started by routing the dovetail

slots in the blank for the drawerfront. There’s not much to this, but

there are a few things to point out.First, when it comes to positioning

the dovetail slots, you want to payattention to the distance between the two slots.

And since the dovetail slot isstopped, I drew a line on the top

of my router table to let me knowwhen to stop routing (see StepOne). Finally, I used a push block

to help stabilize the workpiece asI pushed it into the bit.

The dovetail slot on the oppositeend of the drawer front is routed

in a similar fashion. The only dif-ference is that you have to rout theslot from the opposite direction,

as you can see in Step Two. Thismeans that you’ll have to draw a

new stop line on the top of yourrouter table.

To rout the other half of the slid-ing dovetail joint on the drawersides, you should leave your router

bit at the same height. But you will

have to move the fence over so thatonly a portion of the bit is exposed(see Step Three). Then, just make apass on each face of the drawer side

to create the dovetail.To finish up the dovetail, trim

back the top end on the routertable, as shown in Step Four. Then

round off the end of the dovetailwith a chisel to match the end of thedovetail slot in the drawer front (see

right detail in Step Four).

dovetailed

DRAWER

FRONT

STEP ONE

STEP TWO

STEP FOUR

STEP THREE




Curved-Front Wall Cabinet

A Top Rails (2) #/4 x 2!/2 - 5#/4

B Bottom Rails (2) #/4 x 7 - 5#/4

C Front Stiles (2) #/4 x 1%/8 - 29

D Rear Stiles (2) #/4 x 2 - 29

E Side Panels (2) #/4 x 5%/8 - 20!/2

F 1x1)2(gnidloMtnorF #/4 - 29

G Dividers (3) #/4 x 10 - 19 rgh.

H Top/Bottom Panels (2) #/4 x 11 - 21!/2

I Door Staves (6) &/8 x 3 - 24 rgh.

J Drawer Front (1) 1#/4 x 4#/8 - 17!/2 rgh.

K Drawer Back (1) !/2 x 3&/8 - 15!/4

L Drawer Sides (2) !/2 x 4#/8 - 8!/4

M Drawer Bottom (1) !/4 x 7%/8 - 15!/4

N Drawer Guides (2) %/16 x 1 -

O Back Panel (2) !/2 x 7#/

P Back Stiles (2) !/2 x 2

Q Back Center Divider (1) !/2 x 1!/

R Shelf (1) #/4 x 9 - 18#

S Hanging Cleat (1) !/2 x 1#/4

• (31) #6 x 1!/4” Fh Woodscrews• (4) !/4" Spoon-style Shelf Pins• (2) #/4"-dia. Antique Brass Knobs• (1) 1 -dia. Antique Brass Knob• (1 pr.) 1!/2" Antique Brass Wrap-Around Hinges w/Screw• (2) 1#/4" Brass Ball Catches

Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram


14/14

Woodsmith Store800-444-7527

Rockler800-279-4441rockler.com

General Finishes800-783-6050

generalfinishes.com

MAILORDER

SOURCES

Project Sources

WALL CABINET

Building the curved-front wall

cabinet will be a challenge,

but installing the few hard-

ware items won’t add much

to the job. Everything I usedcame from Rockler . You’ll

need two pair of antique brass

partial wrap-around hinges

(#26906), two brass ball

catches (#28613), and three

antique brass knobs — two3 / 4"-dia. (#67587) for the doors,

and one 1"-dia. (#68585) for

the drawer. The cabinet was

finished with a couple coats

of lacquer.

Documents

Curved Front Wall Cabinet