Cwt 44 summer 2014 issue

W O R L D

T u n i s i a

C o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e W o r l d !

S l o v e n i a & c r o at i a * I n d i a * E a s t A f r i c a n B i r d s * C h a m o n i x M o n t - B l a n cA

si

a

*

No

rt

h

Am

er

ic

a

*

Eu

ro

pe

*

A

fr

ic

a

*

Oc

ea

ni

a

*

So

ut

h

Am

er

ic

aN

ew

Z

ea

la

nd

*P

an

am

a*

Ha

va

na

*B

C*

Ar

ka

ns

as

*L

as

V

eg

as

*A

nn

A

rb

or

Already

Eleven

Years!

Traveller

C A N A D I A N

Summer/Fall 2014

A word from the editors Published by

Canadian World

Traveller

4055, Ste-Catherine Street W., Suite 158Westmount, Qc Canada H3Z 3J8

Tel.: (514) 667-2293www.canadianworldtraveller.com

Email: [email protected]

Publisher Michael MorcosEditor-in-chief Greg JamesGraphic Artist Al CheongAdvertising Leo SantiniMarketing Tania TassoneDistribution Royce DillonContributors:Alan G. Luke, Ruth Atherley, Adam Scott Kennedy, Steven Sanders,A. M. Macloughlin, Chris Higgins, Habeeb Salloum, and Dave Cox.

Front Cover Photo by Michael Morcos:Tunisia

Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has madeevery effort to verify that the information provided inthis publication is as accurate as possible. However,we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, orinconvenience sustained by anyone resulting fromthe information contained herein nor for any infor-mation provided by our advertisers.

Welcome to the Summer/Fall 2014

Issue of Canadian World Traveller

which is being distributed across

Greater Montreal, as well as in select locations

in the Greater Toronto Area.

The magazine is now in the eleventh year

of its publication. This issue, as well as many

previous issues and all our published articles

are archived on our website at www.canadian-

worldtraveller.com.

In addition to an electronic version of

Canadian World Traveller sent by email you

may now download our Free CWT App for

Android and Apple devices. Visit our website

to access a direct link.

Please help preserve the forests of our

beautiful planet by recycling this magazine

after reading it or better still share it with oth-

ers.

In this issue we start our worldwide

odyssey in Africa, first we visit remarkable

Tunisia - Jewel on the Mediterranean and its

many faces. Further south we go bird-watch-

ing and witness the beautiful and diverse East

African birds.

We then take in the European history and

culture with active vacations. First we cycle,

hike and kayak through Slovenia and Croatia

and then travel to the beautiful region of

Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France for skiing and

a stay at Club Med.

In Asia we visit the breathtaking and

magnificent Taj Mahal before we head way

south to picture perfect New Zealand for more

cycling. In Latin America we visit charming

Old Havana before we celebrate the Panama

Canal Centennial - A Land Divided, the World

United.

Closer to home we journey to four cor-

ners of North America. In coastal British

Columbia we go foraging for wild edible

shellfish and then head south to Las Vegas for

the fun, sun, sins, and above all the incredible

pools. In Arkansas we discover many hidden

gems, first in the ground and then in the

many welcoming happy locals. We end our

travels in Ann Arbor, Michigan ‘Down on

Main Street’. Happy Travels!

NO-JET-LAGTM

Tel.: 514-933-3302 - Fax : 514-933-8311Toll-free : 1-888-359-9355 - Email : [email protected]

Why spend days recovering when you can take thishomeopathic remedy during the flight and feelfresher upon arrival at your destination. 32 tablets

in each packet - sufficient for 45 hours flying time.

www.nojetlag.com

C W T C o n t e n t s

8 28

12 30

14 34

16 36

20

26

40

44

I n d i a

Taj Mahal

Chamonix Mont-Blanc à la Club Med

P a n a m a

The Land Divided, the World United

C u b a

Old Havana

B r i t i s h C o l u m b i a

Foraging for wild shellfish

Hidden Gems and Friendly Folk

A r k a n s a s

L a s V e g a s

Fun Sun S ins & Pools

Tunis ia

The Jewel on the Mediterranean Sea

Slovenia & Croatia

Out of my comfort zone and into adventure

A quick guide to b irdwatching in

East Africa

France

Two-wheeling in

N e w Z e a l a n d

A n n A r b o r

D o w n o n M a i n S t r e e t

8

The Jewel on the Mediterranean Sea

Tunis ia

by Michael Morcos

When thinking of the manybeautiful places this worldoffers as a possible desti-

nation for a vacation, Tunisia is sometimesoverlooked. This being my first trip there,Tunisia was one great big happy surprise!

Whether it is the breath-taking sceneryin the lush green north or the hot and drydeserts in the south, the cuisine, or theunbelievably friendly people, Tunisia tan-talizes the senses!

Its history is a wealth of Phoenician,Roman, Islamic and French influence andall this can be experienced with the peaceof mind knowing that you are in a safecountry.

Our trip began and ended in the north.To the north we would visit the capitalTunis, as well as the coastal towns of SidiBou Said, Hammamet and Bizet, followedby a three-day tour of the southernTunisian oasis towns of Tozeur, Tamerza,Chebika, Mides and Nefta.

Beautiful North Coast

The jagged, mountainous and sunnyMediterranean coastline was a fantasticintroduction to Tunisia. I had to remindmyself that I was not in Greece as the bluewaters and whitewashed houses couldeasily be mistaken for other parts of thiswell-travelled sea.

The popular postcard town of Sidi BouSaid was a relaxing way to wash away thejetlag as we wandered through the charm-ing little streets.

Along the way we would watch localwomen painting Henna tattoos on visitors'hands and feet. I bought many Tunisianhandy crafts such as colourful ceramicplates. Our day would end at a crowdedhillside outdoor cafe with mint tea under agolden setting sun.

Tunis

This being our first full day, we wouldstart and end our day in the Tunisian capi-tal. At first glance, Tunis is a clean, organ-ized and quiet city.

There was an obvious North Africanfeel to the city but surprisingly it also hada western flavour. This is probably due tothe fact Tunisia was a French colony until1956. I found on its main boulevard,cafés with outdoor seating that one couldmistake for Paris. The western and Arabarchitecture and street design blendedwell, giving a unique and pleasant atmos-phere.

Marché Central

Our first stop would be the central mar-ket. Unlike many food markets I have visit-

ed, this one was very clean and well-organized and the vendors were amongthe friendliest I had ever met.

They took great pride in their produceas they continually cleaned and stackedthe counters. Divided in many sections,this large market had almost anything onewould want.

Most notable were the sweet smells ofthe fruit and vegetable section and themarvellously well-presented produce stallsstacked eight feet high by 20 feet across.

Not far away was the seafood section,evidence the sea was not far away. I wasamazed by the variety of fish and seafoodand watched and photographed the mer-chants cleaning the day's catch.

Mornag Wine Cellars

Both the Phoenicians and Romans grewgrapes and produced wines in Tunisia.This legacy is still alive and well as wetoured the historical underground caves ofMornag where local producers share thecellars as part of a co-op.

A wine tasting of the many splendidreds, whites and even sparkling wine in adimly lit cave, surrounded by aging oakbarrels and a musky smell was truly agreat experience.

My favourite wine and choice for theremainder of the trip was the VieuxMagon that rivals the finest wines ofFrance and Italy.

Hammamet

Hammamet lies on the coast and isknown for its many great sandy beaches.Dominating the city is the Kasbah (Arabicfor fort) where from the upper terrace Igot a 360-degree view of the blue ocean,the golden sandy beaches, the GreatMosque, the medina and the whitewashed houses of the city.

A late afternoon leisurely stroll throughthe narrow shaded streets and windingalley of the old medina is like a walk backin time. Visiting the many small stores,cafes and souvenir shops found on everycorner was a cooling relief from the hotsun and an opportunity to buy Tunisianspices and fragrant essential oils.

By contrast, Hammamet's new devel-opment area has large-scale hotels thattailor to the all-inclusive vacationer. Mostof these hotels had large swimming poolsand were directly located on or close tothe beaches.

Our guide stopped at a couple forshort visits. My favourite was the VincciLella Baya hotel. I was amazed by the fivestory high lobby, the detail of its uniqueinterior looking like the set of a Star Warsfilm.

Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014

Roman Tunisia

Tunisia was a prized territory forthe Romans as it was and is the closetpoint to Africa for them. The Romansnamed this area Africa, derived from theAfri, the name of the tribes who dwelt inthe area and thus the name of the wholecontinent.

The Romans firmly left their mark inTunisia and a visit to the Utique agrologi-cal site and the Sbeitla archaeological site(further south) were evidence of their influ-ence in this part of Africa.

The Utique ruins were still under exca-vation but what was exposed showed thatthis was an important Roman site. Themosaic floors that were evident every-where were mostly intact while somebuildings had erect columns and facades.

Most surprising was the green country-side. The Romans chose this place well.Gentle rolling hills, ever green trees andwild flowers dotted the landscape. Withthe perfect mild spring weather, it remind-ed me more of Austria than Africa.

Bizerte

Bizerte is the principal town on thenortheast cost of Tunisia. First settled bythe Phoenicians and used as a strategicport it was later taken by the Romans fol-lowed by the Arabs, Turks, Germans andthe French. They all seemed to fancy thegood life by the sea and after a short visithere I could see why.

The most attractive area of the city isthe picturesque old port, where we spenttime at the cafes watching the colourfulboats come and go and fishermanunloading their catch.

In near perfect sunny weather we tooka walk down the tree-lined seaside prom-enade that runs along the mostly emptybeaches. In the gentle ocean breeze Icould not help but think of the balancethis place. Clean, friendly, warm andbeautiful, Bizerte was another of the manygreat happy surprises on my trip throughTunisia.

Lunch with a View

Perched atop a cliff, La FalaiseRestaurant was one of my favourite placesto savour the Tunisian seafood.

The vista was breathtaking and theideal setting to end our tour of the north.

Our waiter brought us a tray full of theday's catch of fish and crustaceans tochoose from. Our selection was shortlyprepared and served with Tunisian salad,fresh French breads, couscous, vegetables,spicy olives and of course great wine.

9

tree oasis was a welcome relief to the veryhot off-road truck ride.

A refreshing dip would have been evenbetter, but a tight schedule and no bathingsuit did not permit this.

The Tamerza Palace hotel that wasfound on top of a hill had a spectacularview of the surrounding desert mountains.It overlooked the dried out riverbed anddeserted Berber town that was abandonedafter a great flood destroyed its homes.

This was a perfect place for lunch. Thenewly built hotel was designed with all themodern amenities and had stylish lookingrooms with a Tunisian accent.

Mides

Not far away was the Mides gorge. ANorth American could easily mistake it forpart of the Grand Canyon.

This area that bordered the country ofAlgeria was made famous by the film 'TheEnglish Patient'. I soon found out theTunisian south is a popular setting formovie making.

The sheer vertical drop of the gorgewas created by many years of erosion bythe river below that snaked through it. Iwas able to get right to the edge of thegorge where I sat and enjoyed the awe-inspiring scenery.

In silence I observed a goat herder andhis goats grazing on the few strands ofgrass on the nearby hill. It was a simplesight made beatific juxtaposed against thebig cities, the traffic, the noise pollutionand the 9 to 5 routine found back home.

The Real Star Wars

The actual sets of the Star Wars filmhave been left untouched in the middle ofthe desert. The many structures that standagainst the sandy background were indecay but the government is making plansto freshen up the site and preserve it as itis an often-visited tourist attraction.

A Boy and His Fox

Our driver made a sudden stop.Walking on the side of the dirt road was ayoung boy waving at us. Proudly heapproached us with an animal in hishand. Looking carefully I noticed it was adesert fox. He had caught it himself bysetting up traps.

We took pictures of him and his newpet and gave him a small tip. Money inone hand, his pet fox in the other, the boywalked tall and proud with a big smile asbright as the sun.

Camel Ride in the Desert

I could not resist a camel ride throughthe desert at sunset. It was one of thehighlights of my trip. Our 4x4 truck left

the roads, paved and unpaved alike, toget to a secluded area known for the finesand dunes. This was the wild SaharaDesert we all know in photographs andfilm.

It was a hostile place and a beautifulplace at the same time. In both instances,it was humbling. The wide-open spaceswere devoid of life. Nothing could possiblygrow here. Lack of water and lack of rainmeant there were only sand dunes inevery direction, as far as the eye couldsee.

The heat and the sun were unrelentingbut our sure-footed camels did not seemto care. Onward we rode until we finallyfound a spot where we could sit on theedge of a dune and watch the sun setover the horizon leaving a fiery red sky.

In the night we made our way back bythe light of the moon and the stars above.It was an experience. It was an adventure.It was a delight!

Kairouan

On the last leg of our journey wewould travel overland back to the capitolto catch our flight home. Along the waywe would see a drastic change of sceneryas we left southern desert andapproached more fertile north. Westopped for lunch and toured the holyMuslim city of Kairouan. This city ranksafter Mecca and Medina as a major placeof pilgrimage.

The very friendly people of this citygreeted us with open arms everywhere wewent. We visited many different placesincluding a local bakery, a traditionalTunisian pastry shop, the old medina itselfand an eighth century well that was stillbeing used. The water in this well wasbeing brought to the surface by using ablindfolded camel that moved in circlesdriving a mechanism that drew water up. Istood in amazement. Nothing hadchanged for centuries.

Good-bye (for now)

Time flies when you are having fun andour seven days touring wonderful Tunisiapassed all too quickly. My lasting memo-ries of Tunisia will be fond ones. I mar-velled at its natural beauty. I was intriguedby its rich and storied history. I adored thegreat cuisine, fine wines and freshseafood.

But most of all I will remember thefriendly, caring, gentle, and soft-spokenTunisians who made me feel at homewhile so far away from mine.

These are reasons enough to return tothis hidden gem on the Mediterranean. Ican't wait!

Magnificent South

A short flight out of Tunis broughtus to the oasis town of Tozeur. The rela-tively short one-hour trip was enough tobring us to what seemed like a differentcountry, as we noticed the contrast imme-diately. This was a much-awaited part ofthe trip and Tozeur would now be ourbase for the next three nights. We wouldexplore the many fantastic places and sitesthat dotted this desert region of Tunisia.

With a population of only 25,000,Tozeur is still one of the major southerntowns. Dwarfed by over 200,000 palmtrees watered by hundreds of naturalunderground springs, Tozeur was a para-dise. Trees, flowers and water were foundeverywhere. It was hard to believe beyondthe city limits was the desert.

There were plenty of things to see anddo. With an overcharged schedule wecould only do a bit of the most importantthings.

The Tozeur medina was small but full ofgreat surprises on every street. Most inter-esting were the small residential doorwaysthat opened up to large courtyards anddwellings of the local inhabitants.

I loved the cozy cafes that gave me areal sense of being in Northern Africa.Locals would fill these meeting places untilthe morning hours as they sipped theirmint tea and coffee, smoked their waterpipes and socialized.

Antique stores were very interesting andhad articles dating back decades. I couldhave spent days looking for those perfectdecorative pieces but unfortunately withonly small luggage for my trip I wasforced to settle for pictures instead.

The Red Lizard

A great time was had on the old fash-ioned train, the "Red Lizard" as it travelleddown rail tracks through desert, watersprings, mountain tunnels, deep gorges,steel bridges, blue skies and bright sun.

Tourists from around the globe crowd-ed this little red train. Marvellous was thebest way to explain the scenery as I spentmost of the train ride near an open win-dow with sweetened mint tea in hand,only briefly stretching my legs duringscheduled stops.

Tamerza

Like a mirage the Tamerza oasis standsout in the mostly barren and mountainousdesert. Like magic, cool water rushedthrough underground springs forming ariver, waterfalls and small pools, enjoyedby locals and visitors alike.

A walk through the hilly shaded palm

10

Download our Free CWT App for Android and Apple devices. Visit our website www.canadianworldtraveller.com to access a direct link.

11

Tunis ia


12

Slovenia &

My first reaction to the idea oftaking BikeHike’s active,adventure tour to Slovenia and

Croatia (The Alps to Istria) was: “What?”,“Where?” and “Why?” While I am healthyand reasonably fit, I thought I might be tooold (over 40) for an adventure tour. I could-n’t have been more wrong. In fact, moreand more people over 40, 50, 60 and even70 are choosing tours that take you outsidethe gates of an all-inclusive and into anincredible, active, authentic and connectedexperience. After all, 60 is the new 40! Thefact that BikeHike Adventures is celebratingtheir 20th anniversary this year tells me thatthey have lots of experience with thesetypes of tours.

This tour is defined as “moderate,” whichmeans you need a reasonable fitness levelbecause you bike, kayak or hike for up tofive hours per day. The good news is that asupport vehicle follows the group in casesomeone needs a break. The activity level isenough to make you feel like you accom-plished something (and appreciate theglass of wine or cold beer at the end of theday), but doesn’t push you beyond yourlimits. It offers a good balance of activity,relaxation and time to explore local culture.

This eight-day group trip, one ofBikeHike’s most popular European tours,begins in Slovenia and wraps up inCroatia. BikeHike’s maximum on any trip is12 people, with a minimum of two, so it is

always a small group. The “land only” costis $2,999 U.S. per person (with no singlesupplement). It covers almost everythingonce you are on the ground, including thetour guide, transportation of your luggage,support vehicle, bikes, kayaks, most mealsand accommodation.

Slovenia and Croatia are largely undiscov-ered gems, which means it is still possibleto have an authentic, “non-touristy” experi-ence. The regions visited on this tour are aculinary and wine lover’s paradise. Theycould be compared to some parts of Italyfor food, wine and history, but with theirown unique and – as yet – undiscoveredcharm.

Out of my comfort zone and

Along the way, there is an overnight stay ina mountain hut in the Julian Alps, hikingthrough green pastures and alpine moun-tains, cycling and several wine tastingsthrough the Brda wine region (known as“Slovenian Tuscany”). This itinerary goesthrough lands of castles, vineyards, smallwhite churches and friendly villages. It is aperfect balance of the road less travelledand the opportunity to step into a magicalworld full of history and charm – one thathasn’t been overwhelmed by tour busesand big groups.

In Croatia, there is more vineyard cyclingon the legendary route of the Parenzana,called “The Railway of Wine” – with a richhistory of its own. Visiting local villages and

medieval towns along the route brings thepast alive.

Meeting locals, making friends in the smalltour group, and stepping into momentsright out of history creates once-in-a-life-time memories different from anything youcould possibly expect. Sometimes movingout of your comfort zone takes you intoamazing experiences that you never couldhave imagined and, now, never want toforget.

BikeHike Adventures Inc.http://www.bikehike.com

The Alps to Istria Tourhttp://www.bikehike.com/croatia-slovenia-adventure-tours

Croatia


13

into adventure

I n d i a

Taj Mahal T h e M o s t E x t r ava g a n t M o n u m e n t To L o v e E v e r B u i lt

on the opposite bank of the Jumna, hisown tomb in black marble as a facsimileof the Taj. This was to be connected withthat of his beloved queen with a bridge,but it was not to be.

In 1658, five years after TajMahal was completed, he was overthrownby his own son, Aurangzeb, and incarcer-ated in the Red Fort of Agra. His onlyconsolation was that he could look fromone of the Fort's windows on his master-piece, the Taj Mahal. During the ensuingyears of confinement he never becamereconciled to Mumtaz's loss and in 1666,36 years after his wife had passed away,he died, still in prison it is said while gaz-ing at the reflection of his beloved wife'swhite and noble Taj, across the river. Hewas laid to rest by the only woman hehad ever loved.

Until our times, this architecturalmarvel, declared by UNESCO as a build-ing of outstanding universal value, hasinspired poets and writers. Many of thesome 10 million annual tourists like toview it in the early morning when the firstpale rays of the sun give a soft sultry lus-tre to the marble, twinkling in a coat ofblue, mauve and pink. However, at anytime of the day or night it is a breath-tak-ing structure. It alters in appearance,colour and character with every shift ofsunlight - blinding white at noon, mellow-ing at dusk and a deathly blue-white atnight. One can truly say, "It is a tomb-palace like no other.

sight and had married her for love in1612 when she was 21. Through theyears, he came to respect her intelligenceand relied on her for support and advicein state affairs. His ardour and esteem forher never wavered until her dying day.Grief-stricken by Mumtaz's death, hevowed to build her a memorial whichwould be the crown of palaces - surpass-ing in magnificence anything the worldhad ever witnessed.

Construction began in 1632 andthe mausoleum was completed sometimein 1653. It took 20,000 craftsmen andlabourers 21 years to build this exquisitework of art. Shah Jahan had ordered it tobe constructed as delicate and graceful ashis beloved wife and his wishes weremore than fulfilled. His creation,described as the aesthetic epitome ofMogul civilization is to many of its admir-ers the greatest love story ever told.

Situated on the southern bank ofthe Jumna River where it can be seen likean extraordinary mirage from the nearbyAgra Fort, it is a moon-white fantasy inmarble which becomes indelibly etchedon the retina of every visitor's eyes. Fromits enormous 30 m (100 ft) high colossalthree-storey marble gateway inscribedwith verses from the Koran, the Taj Mahalopens up like an overflowing jewel box.

Inside, the mausoleum, toppedwith a massive dome rising 24 m (80 ft)over its roof, is hidden by large trees andgeometrically arranged manicured gar-dens covering some 17 ha (42 ac). Itsreflecting pool edged by cypresses catch-es the glittering images on the tomb, cast-ing a magic spell on most onlookers.

The shrine, located on a 29 sqm (313 sq ft) marble platform of a blackand white chessboard design, is caged bytwo buildings of red sandstone - one amosque and the other a replica of amosque flanked by four dainty and slen-der 42 m (138 ft) minarets, standing oneach corner of the platform. A jewelledmosaics and marble screen of latticework,as intricate as lace, surrounds the beauti-fully inlaid marble burial place whichhouses the crypts of both Mumtaz Mahaland Shah Jahan.

The smell of sandalwood andjasmine incense pervades the interior andthis aroma intertwined with the all-encompassing beauty spellbinds a visitor.Said to be the most marvellous memorialto anyone on the globe, it enshrines for-ever the splendour and glory of Moghulstructures. Shah Jahan wanted to build,

by Habeeb Salloum

Built as a monument to love,the Taj Mahal, the most famous of allIndia's tourist attractions, on July 7, 2007was voted by approximately 100 millionpeople from around the globe, who casttheir ballots by telephone and Internet, tobe one of the ‘New Seven Wonders of theWorld’. It was a well-earned acclamationfor unlike most of mankind's other greatstructures it was not erected to satisfy reli-gious fervour or the vanities of rulers.Rather this symbol of India's sub-continentwas constructed in honour to professesteem, devotion and love.

Historians and travellers have,through the ages, considered it more thanjust a building or some significant eventbut a total experience. Said to be theproduct of the greatness and nobility ofIslam in India, it is the most drawn, pho-tographed and described building struc-ture in the world.

For more than three and a halfcenturies it has stood as a reminder ofIslamic medieval splendour. At the timethe Puritans were erecting their log cabinsin New England, the Indian MoghulEmperor, Shah Jahan was constructing hisfamous Taj Mahal.

During his reign Moghul civiliza-tion in India had reached its golden ageand, everywhere, Indian cities were beingembellished with palatial palaces. Afterhis wife, Queen Arjumand Banu Begum,better known as Mumtaz Mahal (ChosenOne of the Palace), died in 1631 whilegiving birth to their 14th child, ShahJahan decided to immortalize her memo-ry.

He had been smitten withMumtaz's extraordinary beauty at first


15

16

lakes of Kenya’s Great Rift Valley. LakeNaivasha is a great place to get out onthe water to view a colourful array of peli-cans, herons, storks, ibis and kingfishersnot to mention iconic gems like AfricanJacana, or Lily-trotter, and noisy AfricanFish Eagles. Nearby, Lake NakuruNational Park provides all the thrills of agame-rich reserve combined withlakeshore, open grassland, cliffs and richwoodlands and here you could encounterthe turkey-sized Southern Ground-Hornbill, the snake-hunting Secretarybirdand huge Martial Eagles. At the right timeof year, the lake itself plays host to tens ofthousands of flamingos, a sight whichlegendary ornithologist Roger ToryPeterson once called "the greatest birdspectacle on earth". These two locationscan become busy at times so if solitudeand tranquillity are your thing then ashort journey north to Lake Baringo could

exceptional sites to boost their bird lists.Having spent six years working and bird-ing in East Africa, I have been veryimpressed with the quality of local birdguides at many key sites but I advise thatyou book one in advance of your arrivalto avoid disappointment. Many can bebooked directly with your lodge or campbut with the rise of internet use in theregion, many also have a profile online,even their own website! You cannot beatlocal knowledge and using a local birdguide is a great way to ensure that bird-rich areas are well-protected outside ofnational parks and reserves as it helpscommunities to realise the value of natu-ral resources.

The list of excellent birding sites is almostendless but, in terms of access to a largenumber of species in a relatively smallarea, there are few places to beat the

When dreaming of a safarivacation in East Africa, mostpeople conjure up images of

Lions, Elephants and Giraffe but mystrongest advice is “don’t forget thebirds”! Over 1400 species have beenrecorded in the region covering Kenya,Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda and the little-known Burundi and while there is noshortage of ‘little brown jobs’ (LBJs) forthe experts to get excited over, there aremany 100s of stunning birds of all shapesand sizes to occupy the eyes on gamedrives or when you’re taking some well-earned down-time back at your lodge.

For serious birders, or ‘twitchers’, thereare numerous companies offering dedi-cated birdwatching holidays throughoutthe region but all-round nature-loverswishing to spend a day or two focussingon birds can easily incorporate a few


A quick guide to b irdwatching in

East AfricaArticle and images by Adam Scott Kennedy

well be in order. This beautiful lake is situ-ated within a semi-desert environmentand surrounded by lush gardens andreed-beds that attract many special birds,some of which are found almost nowhereelse in East Africa. The most comfortableaccommodation in the area can be foundon the private Samatian Island which hasthe feel of a private island in the IndianOcean and it is home to many birds.

Another favourite birding destination ofmine is Kakamega Forest and no visitwould be complete without an overnight,preferably more, at the idyllic RondoRetreat which is set within well-manicuredgardens and surrounded by lush rainfor-est, the most-easterly point of the vastGuinea-Congalese forest belt that reachesto the Atlantic coast of Gabon. Here youcan enjoy the sight and sound of theGreat Blue Turaco and a variety of colour-

ful sunbirds, among 300+ other birdspecies, numerous monkeys, and thehuge African Crowned Eagle, a specialistprimate-hunter, which can often be seenfrom the grounds where it occasionallynests. There are numerous tracks throughthe forest and a guided walk with a localbird guide is highly recommended.

Birdwatching in thick forest can be chal-lenging but also provides some of themost rewarding experiences, especiallywhen combined with chimp and gorilla-watching activities in Uganda or Rwanda,for example. This contrasts with birdingon game drives in savannah habitats,such as the Masai Mara or Serengeti,which is far more sedate but equallyrewarding with Lilac-breasted Roller (mostsafari-goers favourite colourful bird), KoriBustard (the world’s heaviest flying bird)and Ostrich (the multi-record breaker)among the many avian highlights.

Top tips

A trusted pair of binoculars are the mostessential tool along with a good fieldguide. I always recommend a moderateamount of research in advance of a tripin order to familiarise yourself with thecommoner 25-50 species. Once thesespecies have been identified, a really use-ful step would be to learn their calls,which can be downloaded for free atwww.xeno-canto.org, as this can helpeliminate confusing species in the field.

For further advice on birding in EastAfrica, feel free to drop me an email [email protected] and I’ll bevery happy to help where I can.

About the Author

Together with wife Vicki, Adam ScottKennedy is the author of five photograph-ic identification guides to the wildlife ofEast Africa, all published by PrincetonUniversity Press. His latest book, Birds ofKenya’s Rift Valley, features colour imagesand descriptions of 320 frequently seenspecies and is hot off the press.


17

20

F r a

à la Club

Chamonix

by Michael Morcos

n c e

Med

Mont-Blanc

21

around the summit! For the less daring,there is a glass over hang on top wherepeople can walk onto a glass plate form,this is safe but a very scary feeling andmost people are quite reluctant but comeback laughing!.

The Mer de Glace is a glacier that is asfun to ski as it is too incredible to see. Youhave the option to take a cute red cog (atrain speciality outfitted to climb steepinclines). An elevator at the top will bringyou to a terrace with fantastic views of Mt.Blanc.

The Club also provided shuttles that tookus to other ski hills in the region, offeringus different runs and experiences on adaily basis. The skiing is exquisite for allskill levels and extreme enough for me;but some members of our group went ona thrill-seekers adventure. Up very earlyone morning, they made there way to thetop of the Aiguille de midi mountain, fromthere they ascended with skis in hand ondangerous and narrow paths to skiuntouched mountain trails. They said itwas heavenly, I said it was crazy!

The area is known for extreme sports,including the skiing. Parasailing and hanggliding amongst the mountains is anamazing experience for those with a stom-ach for heights, and the most incrediblething I saw were two young men whowould climb to tops of mountains and flylike birds through the sky. They looked likebats with their special black ‘wing suit’and would finally land with a parachute.Unbelievable!

In the town, visitors can also enjoy theChamonix Leisure park at the feet of MontBlanc ! This Amusement park is an idealplace to spend a pleasant afternoon in afamily or in group. More than 15 activitiesand games await you!

The Chamonix Luge Alpine Coaster isopen in summer and winter and there aremany other activities available. Slides,toboggans, trampolines, electric motorcy-cles, climbing parks, giant swings, boatflying... A great family activity!

My stay at club med in this magical play-ground was a memorable experience fullof physical activities, wonderful gastrono-my and lots of French culture.

www.clubmed.com

www.chamonix.com

was served. To our delight, the deserttable was completely sinful and we werealso treated to the local speciality of anamazing Savoie cheese fondue andPierrade – a flat hot plate style of cookingmeats and vegetables.

The entertainment was multi-lingual, withFrench and English being used along witha little Russian, Italian, Portuguese andmore. The shows were run by the resortstaff and were an entertaining mix of pro-ficiency and enthusiasm. Other in-resortfun included the lounge and the disco,repleat with music from around the world.

The Hotel is on the edge of the town cen-tre, happily within walking distance after afull days skiing!

Skiing was, of course, the greatest part ofthe stay. The region is a top ski destina-tion for a reason, and Club Med hasresponded to this with their typical style.Their massive ski pro shop offers rentalsfor either skiing or snowboarding and theyhave hired excellent ski instructors, whoalso acted as our guides and friendsthroughout our stay.

Access to the slopes was either by walkinga few yards to a beginner slope or takinga button lift which allowed an easy ski tothe main lift, or by bus to a linked ski cen-tre. For myself, Mont Blanc, locatedbehind the town and close by the resort,gave me the ski experience of a lifetime!

Our days were filled with fun and excitingactivities, and as the town is situated nearthe massive peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges,Chamonix is one of the oldest ski resortsin France and is known as the "gateway tothe European Cascades." The 1924 WinterOlympics were held in this picturesquetown and its special Alpine feeling is quitepalpable.

If you visit Chamonix, there is somethingyou must do - climb the l'Aiguille next toMont Blanc. The gondola follows twopathways to the top. The first leg heads upto the Plan de L'Aiguille. At this point youcan visit the mid-station, a great place tostart some backcountry skiing. In the sum-mer time you'll want to continue on to thetop. At 12,605 feet you will probably startfeeling the altitude at the summit station.There you will find the walkway/tunnel tothe area where skiers start their descent ofthe Mer De Glace glacier. The trail is con-sidered one of the longest ski descents inthe world. In the summer, the cliff facesare filled with adventurous rock climbers

The French Alps have a wealth ofwonders ready to share with visi-tors and the town of Chamonix, in

the Savoie region, is a magnificent exam-ple of the riches available!

This idyllic town is a popular spot formany reasons, including for the evercharming town itself!

This region links three countries together,and is a major draw for people travellingfrom Italy through the long tunnel underMont Blanc, an engineering marvel initself. Switzerland is also a close neighbourand has many visitors who come to thistown filled with outdoor cafes, restaurantsand bars.

The welcoming nature of the town is rein-forced by the stylish inns and boutiquehotels, ancient fountains, a lovely church,cobbled stone streets and pedestrianshopping areas with many speciality storesselling local foods including cheese andsausage delicacies.

We stayed at the Club Med Chamonix,well situated in the lovely town with Mont-Blanc lift stations right behind the complexand easy access to the amazing skiingavailable on its slopes and the charmingtown outside the door.

The Club Med resort was a fantastic placeto stay, with a staff filled with an amazinggroup of welcoming, enthusiastic, attentivepeople, who were never intrusive. Fromreception to the goodbye, they were readyand willing to help at a moment’s notice.

The hotel itself is large and has many dif-ferent niches and alcoves to sit with thefamily to play a game, have a warm drinkwith a partner or enjoy a fireside book.

The outdoor swimming pool was comfort-able to swim in but a little cool to "lounge"in, but the misty effect caused by the tem-perature difference created a lovelyatmosphere. The poolside deserves anadditional special mention for its cleanli-ness and mountain views to take thebreath away.

My room offered a balcony with apanoramic view of the extraordinary Mont-Blanc. Comfortably furnished, the roomwas a good place to recoup, regroup andrecover.

As expected when visiting France, the foodwas exceptional, and on any given nightjust about everything you could think of



23

Chamonix Mont-Blanc

à la Club Med

While there are plenty of waysto get around in NewZealand, one of the most fun

is on two wheels. With so many options –motorcycle tours, biking in a wine region,or riding the New Zealand Cycle Trail –visitors can lift their feet off the groundand check out the sights, sounds andmagic of the country.

With stunning views and dramaticallychanging landscapes, New Zealand roadsoffer an exceptional experience for motor-cycle fans. While there are several differ-

26

ent tour providers throughout the country,Bularangi Motorbikes both rents andoffers one and multi-day guided tours onHarley Davidsons. They run the tours inAuckland, Christchurch and Queenstown.The tours can be self-ride or as a passen-ger, depending on whether the visitor hasa motorcycle licence. So even those with-out a licence can experience the thrill ofriding a Harley.

For those who want to use their ownpower to move the wheels, most wineregions throughout New Zealand have a

range of bike tours to get you from wineryto winery. The tour operators provide youwith a bike, helmet (you are drinkingwine, after all) and tailor your route andthe wineries you will visit to match your fit-ness level and wine interests. Cycling letsyou ride at your own pace, often alongthe edge of the vineyards – allowing youto take in the area’s beauty. And if youhave indulged a little too much in the tast-ings, tour operators are happy to comeand collect you and your bike! In theMarlborough region, famous for its sauvi-gnon blanc, Wine Tours By Bike, highlight-

Photo: Mike Heydon

Photo: Miles Holden

Two-wheeling in N e w

by Ruth Atherley

ed as a “top tour” by Lonely Planet, offersa range of customized self-guided biketours. The bikes even have special winecarriers to hold purchases from the cellardoors that you visit!

For those who want to take their cycling tothat next level, the clear choice is the NewZealand Cycle Trail – Nga Haerenga –which, in Maori, means “the journeys” inboth a physical and spiritual sense. Whenthe last of the 22 “Great Rides” that makeup the trail are completed by the end of2014, cyclists will have almost 2,500 kilo-

metres of dedicated bike routes throughiconic landscapes from the top of theNorth Island to the bottom of the SouthIsland.

Seeing New Zealand on two wheels givesvisitors the opportunity to see manyregions of the country from a differentperspective. Whether on a motorcycle orbicycle, riders are sure to find some Kiwimagic on their trail.

Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.ca)has direct non-stop flights from Vancouver

to Auckland and offers flights from manyother North American cities. For moreinformation about New Zealand, pleasevisit: www.NewZealand.com.

Bularangi Motorbikes –http://www.bularangi.com/motorcycle-tours/

Wine Tours By Bike – http://www.wine-toursbybike.co.nz/

New Zealand Cycle Trail –http://www.nzcycletrail.com/

27


Z e a l a n d

Ditch" provided a vital international tradelink when it officially opened on August15, 1914. Although it was overshadowedby the start of World War I, less than twoweeks before, the impressive entity trimsover 8,200 miles (13,120 km) off the NewYork City - San Francisco route.

It generally requires 9 hours for the aver-age ship to traverse all 3 sets of locks(Gatun, Pedro Miguel and Miraflores)along the 48-mile (77 km) waterway. Alllocks weigh 730 tons each and it takesover 26 million gallons (100 million litres)of water to raise a ship in them. Currently,more than 14,000 ships, including over250 cruise ships, gain annual passagethrough the canal system paying tollsbased on gross tonnage. Several of theseoffer a partial transit, entering and exitingfrom the Caribbean Sea.

The Canal Visitors Center & Museum isan impressive facility located on the eastside of the Miraflores Locks. It featuresobservation terraces, a theater, a restau-rant and a hall of special events. Videopresentations and interactive modules canbe experienced within the four exhibitionhalls. “Beyond the Panama Canal” eventswill unfold throughout the (2014) centen-nial year.

28

In 1903, a treaty between the newlyindependent Panama and the UnitedStates permitted the U.S. to undertake

the construction of an inter-oceanic shipcanal across the Isthmus of Panama.

"Undertaking" was the operative wordsince 500 lives were lost for every mile ofthe canal constructed, more by diseasethan accidents. President TheodoreRoosevelt stated during his initialCongressional address: "No single greatmaterial work which remains to be under-taken on this continent is of such conse-quence to the American people as thePanama Canal".

Since the end of the century, the controlof the canal has reverted to the small

Central American country, truly markingthe end of an era. This reluctant relin-quishment by the United States may haveresulted in “separation anxiety”. However,minimal change has occurred, state mostcruise lines. When changes actually mate-rialize, they will quite likely benefit cruisepatrons. New excursions will provide pas-sengers with a relatively extensive ecologi-cal experience similar to that of Costa Ricabut sans wildlife. During this phase, planshave been made for beach hotels andeven golf courses. Evidently, some of theproperty under consideration is that of for-mer U.S. military bases. Prior to theAmerican venture, the French effort(1882-89) on La Grande Tranchie (TheGreat Trench) was brought to bankruptcyand disgrace due to disease and financialproblems.

Although the premier promoter,Ferdinand de Lesseps, was the chief engi-neer of the Suez Canal, this constructivecreation would not reach fruition.Eventually, it evolved into a sophisticatedengineering feat that was a veritable con-vergence of men, might and money whichmade this modern marvel a magnificentmonument that defined a defiant era. Itwas also the first time electricity was uti-lized on such a massive scale. The "Big

P a n a m a

Canal Centennial - The Land Divided, the World United

Article & Images by: Alan G. Luke


Cruise ships provide tenders to the palm-laden isles where a sun-baked beach bar-becue is prepared for the passengers byconvivial crew members. Before disem-barking for your island tour, the ship isbesieged by dozens of dugout canoes.Chanting "money, money" the CunaIndians dauntlessly dive for quartersthrown overboard or catch the coins intheir attractive upturned umbrellas. Thiscolorful and congenial cluster of Cunasencompasses all ages.

Following your beach picnic and excur-sion on Porvenir Island, a "cayuko" (motor-ized dugout canoe) tour is available forinsight into the indigenous environs. Eachcanoe accommodates a handful of pas-sengers and travels past a radar installa-tion tower manned by the US military dur-ing World War II. Further along you passby the native cemetery where thedeceased are interred in hammocksunderground that are sealed but not filledin. Arriving at Nalunega Island (Home ofthe Red Snapper), one can converse andvisit with the Cunas who domicile here intheir modest thatched huts.

There are photo opportunities aplenty asyou peruse the innumerable molas(reverse appliqué embroidery) on display.These vividly colored, hand-stitched fabricscreated by the locals are readily availablefor purchase at only a few of the islets inthe 365-island archipelago.

I realized that this enlightening nativeand canal encounter reinforced the tangi-ble manifestation of the regional slogan:"The Land Divided, the World United".

www.pancanal.com

www.visitpanama.com

For those interested in a marginal sam-pling of this wondrous waterway, a partialtour on a cruise ship is also an invitingventure. Just over an hour later and thevessel has passed through the GatunLocks and into Gatun Lake after beingraised or lowered 85 feet (26 metres) inthree stages. Ships are gradually raisedabove sea level to cross the continentaldivide. The lake is almost half the lengthof the entire canal and was the largestman-made lake of its time 24 miles (38km long).

One can experience the luxuriant securityfrom the upper decks as you scan the100-foot ferns amidst the mangroveswamp and the massive swath of landwrenched from nature. Some of the“islands” you pass are in reality mountaintops. Viewing the jungle landscape, youcan envision this prodigious project beingprogressively perpetrated as you are trans-ported along this tremendous tropicaltrough. This man-made miracle ofmachinery is an accomplishment not to betaken for granted.

Six 55-ton electric locomotives, known as"mules", guide the vessels into the lockswith cables. Each of the 6 double-sidedlocks has seven foot thick gates with alength of 3 regulation football fields and a

volume to accommodate 500 schoolbuses. The individual chambers have thecapacity to park four space shuttles andthe height is equal to that of the EiffelTower. Onboard, a continuous commen-tary provides you with intriguing informa-tion en route.

The successful completion of the U.S.effort cost almost 6,000 lives and $387million to construct over a ten year period,compared to the aborted French operationthat cost 22,000 lives and $300 milliondollars over eight years. RichardHalliburton did actually swim the locks in1928 paying .36¢; today, the mega-linerscan pay in excess of $90,000 for a transitfee (with an average cost being $34,000US).

In 1992, further excavation was initiatedto widen the canal which was originallybuilt to accommodate the size of the HMSTitanic that was 46,328 gross tons andcarried 2,223 passengers and crew.Generally, the canal cannot accommodatevessels that exceed the 100,000 tons limitdepending on their width and length.Numerous mega-ships build over the pastseveral years would get wedged in the"Big Ditch".

Presently, the world’s largest cruise shipis Royal Caribbean International's Oasis(and her sister ship Allure) of the Seas at225,000 gross tons (with a 6,300 capaci-ty). Such behemoths are too large to tran-sit the Panama Canal system. Somecruise lines have been adhering to the"panamax" specifications to ensure theirships are of the nominal size to gain entryinto the locks. The introduction of aPanama Canal expansion proposal willbuild a new lane of traffic along the canalthat would double the capacity and allowmore traffic. The project is estimated tocost 5.25 billion and would be paidentirely by users of the canal through agraduated system of toll increases.

Just off the South American coast, sever-al cruise ships provide excursions to theSan Blas Islands. Discovered in 1501 byRodrigo de Bastidas, the islands became apopular rendezvous point for pirates andprivateers alike into the 1700s. Home tonative Panamanian citizens, theautonomous Cuna Indians uphold theirancient traditions here. The populace hasa restrictive gene pool due to inbreedingand consequently there exists a high ratioof albinism (1 in 220 are albinos). Theyare monogamous and matrilineal-orientedwith a low life expectancy and a highinfant mortality rate.


29

thinks of Havana, is its timeworn originalheart now throbbing with tourists and newlife. To fully experience Old Havana in allits glory one must take a stroll through it.

Plaza de San Francisco de

Asis

We began our walking tour at the Plazade San Francisco de Asis, named after thebordering church and convent. This edi-fice, which was constructed in 1738, isone of the most important historic sites inHavana. An 11 km (6.8 miles) longhand-dug connecting aqueduct – partiallyuncovered for tourists to view it – oncetransported fresh water for the church andships docked in the nearby port. Theaqueduct ends at the Fuente de los Leonesin the centre of the square. Decoratedwith four lions, it reminds one of the Lions’Fountain in Granada’s Alhambra in Spain.

Opposite the church stands the impressiveformer stock market building. Borderingthe square on its third side is the impres-sive Cruise Terminal and on its fourth sideare 17th and 18th century houses, now allfully restored. Some travellers consider

To study the history of architecturein the Western Hemisphere onecan find no better concentration of

historic structures than La Habana Vieja(Old Havana). Founded in 1515, OldHavana never fails to impress its visitorswith its rich history and incomparable NewWorld grandeur. One of the earliest urbancentres established by Europeans in theWestern Hemisphere, this part of Havana isa lovingly restored monument to the city’sglorious past.

The legacy of the Spanish Conquistadorswho built the original city is a wonderfulmix of colonial homes, charming plazas,museums and other places of historicinterest. Today, some of Old Havana’shistoric structures house a variety of bars

featuring live entertainment. Many othersserve as art galleries, hotels, libraries,offices, shops, cafés and restaurants offer-ing traditional Cuban fare and interna-tional cuisine.

Queen of the New World

Known to the Conquistadors as 'Queen ofthe New World', Old Havana is a remnantfrom Cuba's colonial era – a jewel ofSpanish colonial architecture. UNESCOhas declared this 4 sq km (2.5 sq. mile)area of narrow streets, secluded squares,impressive fortresses, centuries-oldchurches and ancient palaces as a WorldHeritage Site. On a continual basis, its907 colonial palaces and over 100 othermonuments are being gradually restored.Travellers can easily see that this venera-ble part of the city is being returned to itsonce renowned architectural splendour.

Today, Havana has greatly expandedbeyond its historic sector. A city of 2.5 million, it is the largest urban centre inthe Caribbean and home to one quarterof Cuba's more than 11 million inhabi-tants. Yet, what comes to mind when one

C u b a

The Rich History and Grandeur of Old Havana

by Habeeb Salloum

30


this plaza, usually filled with tourists, asthe most beautiful in Havana.

After passing two ladies with flower bas-kets selling tourists kisses on the cheek forone dollar apiece, we turned off thesquare to walk up the narrow CalleTeniente Rey, which is lined with renovatedperiod structures. “Oh! This reminds meof Spain!” An English woman passing meremarked. Apparently she did not knowthat Havana was once the Caribbeanhomeport of the Spanish fleet and one ofthe most important Spanish possessions inthe New World.

Plaza Vieja

A few minutes of walking brought us toPlaza Vieja, impressive in its historic man-sions surrounding the square on all foursides. Most of them have been tastefullyrestored. Without a doubt, they are evenmore attractive today than they were whennewly built in the 18th century. This plazais unique in that, unlike in any other city,no religious edifice or important govern-ment building overlooks the square.

when Cuba was almost totally underAmerican influence.

An Historic Legacy

As I sat in the park to rest I thought aboutour half-day walking tour of Old Havana.It had been a fulfilling experience, explor-ing the structures of grandeur from daysof yore, especially those that have been sobeautifully restored.

What impressed me this time in Havanawere not only the restored structures butalso the lower number of the tenacioussidewalk vendors, small-time thieves, beg-gars and pestering children, which only afew years ago were everywhere in thestreets of the old city.

The people appeared to be generally bet-ter off and the authorities have cleared thestreets of most of those once aggravatingannoyances. I came away with animpression that today’s Cuba now protectsand celebrates its rich historic legacy – alegacy that visitors from the four cornersof the globe can now readily explore andenjoy.

From Plaza Vieja, we walked along anoth-er narrow street with even more renovatedhistoric homes, all featuring eye-catchingSpanish colonial architecture. It appearedto me that Old Havana was being regen-erated – a 16th century town living in the21st century.

Plaza de Armas

After a five-minute walk, we reached Plazade Armas - Havana’s oldest and mostimportant square. It is lined on all sidesby plants, marble benches and the periodgas lamps that illuminate the square. Theplaza also features lots of second-handbooks for sale. By day and night, thesquare attracts hosts of people, many ofthem drawn there by its many popularrestaurants and bars.

The Plaza is also bordered by importanthistorical structures. Across from theBaroque-styled Palacio de los CapitanesGenerales, now housing the City Museumexhibiting antique furniture, stands ElTemplete, so named because it resemblesa temple. In 1599, the city of Havana wasfounded on this very spot. Beside ElTemplete flourishes a ceiba tree, onceconsidered sacred by Cuba’s aboriginalpeople. Next-door is the Castillo de laReal Fuerza. La Giraldilla, the symbol ofHavana, caps one of its towers.

Plaza de la Cathedral

Leaving Plaza de Armas, we walked to thePlaza de la Cathedral (Cathedral Square)– a very important tourist stop. Thesquare, one of the most authentic andbest preserved in Havana, is a charmingand monumental place. It has been calledthe soul of Havana. The Cathedral hasone of the most beautiful baroque façadesin all of Latin America and is Havana’shistoric site par excellence.

The plaza is also bordered by the Museode Arte Colonial housed in an old man-sion, and opposite the cathedral the his-toric Casa de los Condes de SanFernando de Peñalver. The square isalways filled with tourists, many dining atthe El Margues restaurant or shopping atthe next-door handicraft market.

We ended our tour at Central Park on theedge of the first major expansion of theoriginal city centre. We rested in this oasisof greenery then explored the nearbyimpressive Gran Teatro de la Habana andEl Capitolio, a replica of the US Capital inWashington that was built in the 1920s

31


Office National du Tourisme Tunisien1155, Rue University, Suite 1014 Montreal , QC H3B 3A7Tél. : (514) 397-1182Email : [email protected] Web : www.tourismtunisia.com

F o r a g i n g f o r w i l d e d i b l e s h

B r i t i s h C

34

Mother Nature’s finger food

By Chris Higgins


h e l l f i s h o n e x t r e m e t i d e i n

C o l u m b i a

35


Some 25,000 years ago, during the Pleistoceneepoch, a massive glacier - one of the outlet gla-ciers of the Cordilleran Ice Sheet - advanced

down the Strait of Georgia and graced the shores of east-ern Vancouver Island with a soft, rich sweep of sand.

The embayments stretching from Deep Bay to Parksvilleacted as nature’s sand traps, capturing the glacial out-wash (The Quadra Sands), forming some of the widestbeaches in Canada - a textbook breeding ground forour regions’ tasty shellfish.

A geological anomaly

Vancouver Island’s shoreline isn’t full of delectable shell-fish by chance. The rich supply of seafood is the result ofa fascinating geological occurrence, directly relating tothe formation of Quadra Sands. Dr. John Clauge, one ofCanada’s leading authorities in Quaternary andEnvironmental Earth Sciences and a faculty member ofSimon Fraser University, explains that “During the last IceAge, a huge ice sheet advanced southeastward down theStrait of Georgia and, after it had melted, the resultingbody of sand was eroded by the sea.”

Clauge explains that the Quadra Sands graduallyspread northwest, carried along the coast by the currentsand waves. When the glacial material collided with theembayments along the coast, these acted as a group ofvast, effective sand traps. As a result, the coastlines fromDeep Bay to Parksville are home to some of the world’ssoftest, richest and most luxurious sands - the perfectbreeding ground for oysters and clams and the ultimatemenu for a wild, organic forage at low-tide.

On May 31, June 28 and Nov. 22 the Earth and Moonalign to give some of the year’s lowest tides, uncoveringa variety of edible treasures.

A r k a

H i d d e n G e m s a n d F r

by Michael Morcos

36

For those who enjoy the backroads and corners ofAmerica, hidden histories

and real people, you will be completely sat-isfied travelling through the often over-looked and undiscovered gem ofSouthwestern Arkansas.

We landed in Little Rock, and after a quicktour of the local historical monuments wehad lunch in a local landmark, the WholeHog Cafe. This stop was our first experi-ence with the legendary Arkansan friendli-ness. We were a little overwhelmed as wewere welcomed like long-lost relatives!

Our first stay over was the MountainHarbor Resort, a destination on its own,on Lake Ouachita. Being Arkansas’slargest lake, it has over 700 miles ofshoreline and is completely surrounded bythe Ouachita National Forest. The Chaletwe were offered was magnificent and wellequipped, with a full kitchen, spaciousbalconies facing the lake, and an invitingprivate Jacuzzi.

Our Chalet had two floors with two lovelybedrooms containing beds that werecomfy, contemporary and stylish. The fur-niture was so unique that we asked thefront desk where to buy one like it!

All the lodges have native stone gas-firedfireplaces and a charcoal grill on thedeck, and free wireless to boot. It was adelight to spend time there – the staff evenhad swan towels placed on the pillows towelcome us!

Just outside the Chalet, there were plentyof low-key activities to enjoy. We foundhorseshoe pits, volleyball nets, and lots ofroom for kids to play. The first evening weenjoyed a sunset boat ride, leaving fromthe Mountain Harbor Resort on a private,luxurious two story houseboat for a cruiseand dinner on the lake.

The next day was filled with opportunitiesfor canoeing, hiking, family fishing, scenicdriving, and just plain relaxing-by-the-lake. I took the occasion to find out if thefishing was as good as they said it was! Itlived up to and beyond my expectations asthe fishing is world-class with largemouthbass, walleye and stripers filling the lake.Many an article could be written based onthe outstanding conditions and quality ofthe sport and flavour of the catches!

The next morning was spent cruisingalong the Ouachita Mountains ScenicDrive. That title does little justice to themagnificence of the area. South of the

n s a s

i e n d l y F o l k


37

Early the next morning, we were taken tothe Wegner Crystal Mines, close by theresort. Quartz crystals from Wegner’s arerenowned and the owner has ties withother mines from around the world whichhas helped him collect a vast array ofamazing gemstones for sale. For patientvisitors or some true family fun, you canspend a couple of hours hunting forquartz or finding diamonds and other pre-cious gemstones in Richard Wegner’sDiamond Room. More adventurous folkscan visit the Wegner Crystal Mines andMuseum, where you will explore cavernand learn about the mining industry andits lasting mark on the State.

We drove a little to the south and werewelcomed at another wonderful locale –the DeGray Lake Resort State Park.DeGray Lake Resort State Park isArkansas’s only resort state park and isfamous for their crystal clear waters, acresof shoreline, the almost unlimited amountof outdoor adventures, as well as the highquality of an Arkansas State Park com-bined with resort class amenities.

The park’s main building, the DeGrayLake Resort State Park Lodge, is situatedon an island and offers guests spectacularviews of the distant mountains and thelake itself.

Most of our fondest memories startedfrom this delightful resort. The firstevening, we were treated to a boat tour ofthe lake, a true highlight of the trip due tothe hilarious and knowledgeable parkranger who guided us through the tour.

Our first full day here started with a visit toHistoric Washington, a very interestingoutdoor museum. During the Civil War,Washington was the Confederate capitalof Arkansas after the Union Army occu-pied Little Rock. Today, this rich history ispreserved at Historic Washington StatePark.

We followed that with a stop at theArkansas Museum of Natural Resources inSmackover, which is filled with state-of-the-art indoor exhibits and working equip-

Ouachitas is the Gulf Coast Plain, a rem-nant of the Gulf of Mexico which onceextended to central Arkansas and formedafter the mountains rose. The land islower, flatter, and only slightly rolling, butfilled with brilliant colours, sights andsounds. We returned and enjoyed a nightcap in the lounge, then discovered justhow soft the beds were!

Lunches were extraordinary throughoutour trip, and one that stood out the mostwas our stop at the American ArtisanRestaurant. Gallery, store and restaurantcome together in this amazing space. Ienjoyed gazing at all the USA-made art,toys, games and odds and ends whileenjoying their famous quiche and soup!

We stopped for a coffee break at theFriendship House Gourmet Coffee Shop, agreat local cafe and landmark popularwith citizens and visitors alike. Salad barand treats awaited us and it was nice totake a break in our busy schedule. Set-upto offer peace and warmth, they succeedon both counts!

Whenever I can, I enjoy checking out theoddities and antiquities of the places Ivisit. This trip offered me a glimpse of theway things were as we visited severalantique shops in the town of Mena.Abounding in great bargains and somestrange artifacts, my favorite was theCowboys and Indians Trading Post.Seeped in “old west” history, this storetook my breath away...as well as a few ofmy dollars!

Coupled with the Trading Post is the Lum'n’ Abner Museum & Jot 'em Down Store.Lum 'n’ Abner was a famous duo fromradio and TV who brought many tales ofthe area alive with the colorful characterscreated for their Lum 'N' Abner" Program.The Huddleston Store hosts the souvenirand gift shop and offers Lum 'N' Abnerprograms in addition to antiques andcrafts. The smaller A.A. McKenzie Storethat was built in 1904 is next door anddisplays the many pieces of Lum 'N' Abnerhistory, preserving an important era inAmerican life for all to explore.


38

39ment on display outside. In the Oil FieldPark next to the museum, we explored thestories of this region’s natural resourcesalong a trail with full-sized operatingexamples of vintage equipment used fromthe 1920s to the modern era. Anothergreat feature is the recreation of thestreets of a 1920s Arkansas boom town!

Our trip into the past continued with a bitof antebellum history in Camden. We sawthe 1847 McCollum-Chidester House,built by merchants who were selling tocotton plantation owners. A personalfavorite was a visit to the town of ElDorado, where we had lunch at Favrays(named after the famous actress Fay Wrayfrom the original King Kong movie). Thetown is charming with many old fashionshops, barbers, state buildings and cine-mas – felt like we had stepped into a peri-od film! Continuing down memory lane,there were many wonderful and very wellkept old homes that are part of theAmerican civil heritage trial.

I was one of the people offered a morn-ing at Crater of Diamonds State Park, adiamond mine. It is a 37-acre field wherediamonds are often found close to the sur-face and is the only diamond-producingarea in America open to the general pub-lic. The best part - if you don’t mind get-ting a little dirty and search for a dia-mond, you can keep it!

And if you think that it is just a tourist trap,MANY diamonds have been found there,including the largest diamond ever foundin North America—the Uncle Sam at40.23 carats, discovered in 1924.

Our biggest thrills were yet to come,though, and began when we were greetedby the wild crew at Rowdy Adventures.Offered many different options, I choseRowdy Adventures’ Explore Tour, which isbasically an ironman tour of thrills andexcitement!

Well, it certainly started with a BANG – aspeedy, steep and thrilling zip line. Next, a‘swamp buggy’ ride into the bottomlands

of the Little Missouri River, a muddy andmessy excitement-fueled speed fest. Therewas no slowing down after that, as wehopped off the buggies and onto someATVs for a 5-mile ride to the RowdyRanch. Once there, we mounted somemagnificent horses for a ride to the LittleMissouri for a cookout, and a well neededlunch. After eating, we had the choice ofheading back the easy way or continuingthe adventure. Seeing as I was to spendthe next day in the spa, I chose to contin-ue and ended the adventure with a four-hour paddle trip on the Little Missouri!

The next morning, my sore body recov-ered some energy and flexibility in theBlue Heron Spa, a fully loaded paradiseof relaxing features. It was a wonderfuland delightful stay in the DeGray LakeResort State Park Lodge.

Our final stop on this great trip was a stayin the lodge on top of Mount Magazine,but on the way, we passed by Fort Smithto visit the Fort Smith Museum of Historyand Fort Smith National Historic Site. Asurprise treat was a flyover the area – agreat experience and a unique perspec-tive!

A side note - not far from Fort Smith is (orwas) Fort Chaffee, where a famous eventtook place: “the haircut heard ‘round theworld.” Now named the BarbershopMuseum, it was where Elvis Presley got hisfirst G.I. buzz cut!

Once we got to Mount Magazine, westarted with a relaxing moment on theveranda to enjoy the magnificent viewoverlooking the Petit Jean Valley and BlueMountain Lake from Arkansas’ highestpoint.

I was so tired from the days filled withadventure that I decided to forgo somegreat hikes to the park or a guided hike towaterfalls.

A quiet end to a trip filled with great peo-ple and hidden gems!


40

Sun-worshippers

looking for the

ultimate pool

party…won’t want tomiss Las Vegas’ first ultrapool, WET REPUBLIC atMGM Grand. Recentlyexpanded as part of atwo-year remodel, this “it”dayclub serves up the ulti-mate daylife vibe pro-duced by world-renownedDJs such as Calvin Harris,Steve Aoki and Tiësto. Thisseason, the Sin City hotspot unveils six new VIPBungalows along withthree private plungepools, providing sun-soaked partiers with anunrivaled daytime VIPexperience.

Guests in search

of a relaxing and

luxurious

escape…shouldreserve a premium chaiselounge chair or poshdaybed at the intimateCypress Pool at Bellagio.Loungers will marvel at thepicturesque, child-free set-ting filled with cypresstrees; enjoy the impeccableservice complete with apersonal Cypress host; andtake advantage of chilledtowels and Evian mistersfound within this pool gar-den oasis. For guests whowant to take their leisureeven further, they canschedule a poolside mas-sage to ensure maximumrelaxation.

While the weather might be a bit unpredictable around the country, one thing is for sure:

almost everyone is ready to break out their swimsuits, sunscreen and sandals. Pool season

has officially kicked off in Las Vegas and MGM Resorts International offers a variety of

options for each type of sun-worshipper. From guests who prefer a quiet, child-free environment to

those searching for the hottest daytime dance party, there’s a pool experience fit for everybody.

L a s

41


Fun Sun Sins & Pools

Travelers seeking

a European-style

pool experience…areinvited to unwind at BARE PoolLounge at The Mirage. ThisEuro sunbathing haven offerspalm tree-enclosed seclusionforguests ready to lose their inhi-bitions and tan lines. Guestscan kick off an intimate week-end by reserving one of six VIPcabanas, eight daybeds or twoluxury VIP dipping pools. Top itall off with BARE Brunch onSundays where delectable foodand thirst quenching drinksabound. The poolside pamper-ing and unbeatable tropicalsetting make BARE the idealchoice for those seeking abeautiful yet unconventionalretreat.

Visitors who want

to take their bets

outside…will be delightedby the Beachside Casino atMandalay Bay Beach, just stepsaway from the crashing wavesand 2,700 tons of realCalifornian sand of Vegas’ onlybeach. This climate-controlled,glass-fronted casino featuresblackjack, roulette and crapswith fabulous views of the bril-liant blue water in a casual yetupscale environment. Looking fora break from the tables? Guestscan grab a blanket and listen tolive music from artists such asCounting Crows, Gavin DeGraw,Ziggy Marley, REO Speedwagonand One Republic during theBeach’s Summer Concert Series.

V e g a s

44

A n n A r b o r

M i c h i g a n

D o w n o n M a i n

by Anne-Marie Macloughlin

And somet imes even now,

when I ’m fee l in’ lonely and beat ,

I dr i f t back in t ime, and I f ind myfeet

Down on Mains t reet

When Bob Seger wrote his song Mainstreet, hewas inspired by Ann Arbor, where he grew up.This pretty town is a unique blend of Midwestern

rural and cosmopolitan urban. There are still lots of smallfamily farms nearby, but it’s also a college town, home to theUniversity of Michigan, one of the eight original ‘public Ivies’. Cultural attractions, shopping, and fine dining make this theperfect getaway, only four hours drive from Toronto.

Food and Drink

From the day of my arrival to the night before departure,food and drink of all kinds featured heavily in this four daytrip. The Ann Arbor area is home to more than 300 restau-rants, with new ventures opening on a regular basis. This isjust one reason why Midwest Living recognized Ann Arboras one of the best food towns in the Midwest and continuesto be a top destination for food lovers from across theglobe. Too many to mention in this article, the following isjust a sample, so to speak, of the many cultures and tastesavailable to tempt the hungry traveler.

Ayse’s Turkish Cafe (aysesturkishcafe.com). Ayse (pro-nounced EYE-shuh) Uras opened her café in 1993. She spe-cializes in Turkish home cooking with lots of vegetarianoptions like lentil soup, yogurt soup, and vegetarian stews—as well as meat and seafood, and homemade desserts.

Ayse writes out on a menu board what she’s cooking justbefore lunch and dinner, as she likes to cook according towhat she can get from her butcher and the farmer’s market,basing her menu on what’s in season. But there’s alwayseggplant and good Turkish coffee. And for the adventur-ous, pickled beet juice.

The Slurping Turtle (slurpingturtle.com) recently opened, andhas already earned a name for itself amongst the lunchcrowd. In Japan, slurping is expected; you’re supposed to“slurp the noodle.” Turtles are good luck; they mean longlife. The crunchy Hamachi Tacos, Pork Belly Bao, and DuckFat Fried Chicken are just some of the goodies on offer.Nom nom nom.

Dinnertime can overwhelm with choices on Ann Arbor’smain street. At Logan (logan-restaurant.com) I was seducedby the NY strip steak, artfully placed on a bed of airymashed potatoes and served with a ginger cream sauceand ponzu dressed carrot salad. Sommelier Kevin Hobartkept us well watered with a selection of apropos wine.

45


S t r e e t

level to the next pool), the scenery and alone heron following us made for a tran-quil time out.

For the artist in you, the Motawi Tile Works(motawi.com) will get the juices flowing.Founded by Nawal Motawi in 1992, aswell as many original designs and customorders, the Tileworks are partnered withThe Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation to cre-ate art tile that is adapted from his portfo-lio of work. Motawi has also translatedseveral of Louis Comfort Tiffany’s famousglass designs. Given the opportunity tocreate one of my own, I realized how artis sometimes easier said than done. Still,it’s an original.

The Ypsilanti Automotive HeritageMuseum (ypsiautoheritage.org) is a car-lover’s Nirvana. The museum is located inpretty Ypsilanti, which is also home tomany delightful antique stores.

The collection includes 30 vintage auto-mobiles with a historical connection toYpsilanti. A 1933 Hudson Terraplane KSeries Coach is the oldest in the collection,up through a 1991 Chevrolet CapricePolice vehicle manufactured at WillowRun. Beautifully restored vehicles just begfor a photo opportunity.

Shopping

For a small town, Ann Arbor has a won-derful shopping vibe, with nary a chainstore in sight. Spend the afternoon brows-ing some of the town’s most unique shops,including Falling Water(fallingwatermi.com), known for theirlarge and varied selection of greetingcards, beautiful jewelry, unique hand craft-ed and fair trade gifts from around theworld, and friendly and helpful staff. Vaultof Midnight (vaultofmidnight.com), billedas ‘Earth’s finest comic books and stuffsince 1996”, for the geek in you.

For a slice of the past with a cosmopolitanvibe, look no further than Ann Arbor, MainStreet USA.

For the beer and cocktail crowd, AnnArbor and surrounding areas are saturat-ed (no pun intended) with various water-ing holes to suit all tastes. The ChelseaAlehouse Brewery (chelseaalehouse.com)is located in Chelsea’s historic ClocktowerComplex. It opened its doors in December2012 and features American and Englishstyle Ales, and a wide variety for the beerconnoisseur. Basic pub grub and a wall oftankards owned by patrons to use when-ever they visit, makes this a laid-backmeeting spot.

The Last Word (lastwordannarbor.com) isa speakeasy-style bar, with an array ofdeadly cocktails, including the eponymousnamesake - Gin, green Chartreuse,Maraschino Liqueur and Fresh Lime. Aftera rich dinner and stroll along Main Street,where better to end the night.

If a taste of Mexico is more your thing,check out Habana Cellar Lounge (cafe-habanas.com), where you can enjoy asalty Marguerita in the candlelit basementbar, a cool refuge from the scorchingsummer heat, with its colourful Decoposters. Also, if tequila is your thing,Isalita (isalita.com) can arrange grouptastings with a selection of Mexican snacksand the wisdom of Jeff Westerman, “TheTequila Guy”. After ‘sampling’ four or fivedifferent kinds, I was in my happy place.

Tours

Ann Arbor has many half-day trips avail-able for a variety of interests. I decided tobrave the Huron River in a kayak, whatlooked like a leisurely way to spend anhour or so. Having paddled in a circleand wobbled precariously for five minutes,our guides at the Gallup-Argo CanoeLivery www.a2gov.org/government/com-munityservices/Parks-Recreation/play/pages/canoeing.aspx)took pity on me and I was allowed to dou-ble up with an experienced paddler. Thetrip took about one and a half hours, andeven with the slightly scary cascades (small‘rapids’ that drop the kayaker down a

46


For In

form

ation

please con

tact: In

dia Tou

rism

Toron

to E

mail: in

fo@

in

diatou

rism

can

ada.ca (4

16

)-9

62

-3

78

7

ww

w.in

crediblein

dia.org

Documents

Cwt 44 summer 2014 issue