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ine dining
DINING
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
Fine DiningDINING
DINING
wineFine Dining
June 2013
Welcome to Fine Dining
- the place where the world
comes together in Sweden
2
fine dining
contents
3 eDItoRIAL
4 notIces
8 ÅnGBÅtsBRYGGAn - New restaurant in the ‘Venice of the North’
12 FLoWeRs on tHe tABLe Roses, and above all rose petals, can be integrated th-roughout the meal.
18 RenAIssAnce FoR tHe snuG BAR Our eating habits change with time as do our favourite restaurants.
23 FIne ARt & FIne FooD - ARt tHe tHIeL PALAce GALLeRY The more the problems, the greater the energy, says Monika.
26 DeLIcAcIes - In tHe tessIn PALAce The influence from France and Italy.
31 ABBA – tHe MuseeuM After a long wait, the ABBA museum is finally open to the public.
33 MeLoDY HoteL A brand new Boutique hotel with designer rooms.
35 stRAWBeRRY FIeLDs FoReVeR Good for both mind and body.
39 KRoGHuset HoRn House tAVeRn A whole house built to the glory of food.
43 KAtRIneLunD - tHe PotAto´s MeccA The new Kitchen chef has been selected as a member of the Swedish National Culinary Team.
8 31 35 4312
WHo ARe tHe cHAîne Des RôtIsseuRsThe Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associations, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by a national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the society’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use of the fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever and whenever over the whole world.
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Summer and Fine Dining
It seems that nowadays summer is presented as a time of year where the only cooking that’s done is on a grill. Of course it is not the whole truth, even if we live in the country that consumes
the most meat per capita in the world.
Nevertheless there’s a lot of other things going on in Culinary Sweden. For example, new and exciting restaurants are opening up in Stock-holm and across the country. New trends are seeing the light of a sum-mer’s day - things like Gastro Pubs, Snugs and Sea Pavilions. In addi-tion to all this, the ABBA museum finally opened its doors and boasts a new hotel, MELODY, and has an excellent licensed restaurant.
Edible roses are also on the menu in this issue of Fine Dining, which rounds off with some reviews.
We wish you all a great summer with lots of good food & drink.
eDItoRIAL
eDItoR In cHIeF Ove Canemyr
[email protected] Dining/Trendsetter Box 24013,
104 50 Stockholm
eDItoRIALAnne-Marie Canemyr,Carl Wachtmeister
Catarina OffeChaîne des Rôtisseurs
ARt DIRectoRSophie L Slettengren [email protected]
enGLIsH coPYRoger Brett
Would you like to be associated in Fine Dining? Tell us about your
products or services. Newly opened or new designs,
new foodstuffs and so on. Contact: [email protected]
+46 70 794 09 87
Cover photo: Anne-Marie Canemyr
Welcome to Fine Dining
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quaintances that are interested in Fine Dining.
Let us know about interesting events, meetings and so on at [email protected]
We cannot take responsibility for unsolicited material. Feel free to quote us but always reveal your
sources.
oVe cAneMYR
Editor-in-Chief www.finedining.se
PS Let us know about friends and acquaintances who you think would like to receive a copy of Fine Dining.
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fine diningnotes
tHe RoYAL couPLe’s WeDDInG BReAKFAst. On June 8th in a brilliantly sunny and beautiful Stockholm, Princess Madeleine of Sweden married Mr. Christopher O’Neill.
After the wedding ceremony the wedding party and guests boarded the antique steamer ‘Stockholm’ and set sail for the Drottningholm Palace where over four hundred people enjoyed a sumptuous wedding dinner created and prepared by the Royal Chef Stefano Catenacci. Stefano had a team of 55 to assist him in the kitchen. Everything ran smoothly, just like it always does when our most seaso-ned ‘royal chef’ takes charge of the kitchen.
The initial plate of delicacies was inspired by the Swedish smorgasbord with a selection of dishes like caviar, pickled herring, Västerbotten cheese and mayon-naise. Everyone enjoyed it, particularly the Ameri-can guests.
To follow, salmon, and then a veal dish with the whole meal rounded off with a Pavlova accompa-nied by wild strawberries. Princess Madeleine’s idea of replacing the traditional wedding cake with macaroons was an enormous success. Seven hund-red macaroons built into a pyramid, was a ’wow’ with all the guests.
The evening before the wedding, two hundred guests attended a dinner in the beautiful Hall of Mirrors at the Grand Hotel. The brains behind this delicious menu was Mathias Dahlgren, another of our giants in the Swedish culinary world.
Fine Wines very own homepage
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AnotHeR suMMeR WItH 50 squARe MeteRsAlong with the Nobis group Fredrik Malmstedt will be operating the 50 Square Meters again this summer.
Since last autumn the Gotland restau-rateur has become co-owner of the No-bis group and Furillen and when it was his restaurant, the 50 Square Meters was put up for sale.
“We’ve had some interested parties, but no one wanted to pay enough. So as summer approaches, we’ve decided to press on. It would be an idiotic decision to just chuck the restaurant away in sheer desperation,” says Fre-drik Malmstedt.
Thus 50 Square Meters will open again as usual the week after midsummer. The restaurant is leased to the same company that operates Furillen and after the summer season will be evalu-ated and possibly the collaboration will continue.
“We’ll see - right now we’re focusing on one thing. I wasn’t quite finished with 50 Square Meters and running it again this summer feels great. It looks like everything is falling into place; this is my brainchild and I’m looking forward to the summer, ” Fredrik con-cludes.
Source: The White Guide
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fine diningnotes
GRILLInG At tHe PHotoGRAPHIc MuseuM This famous museum with its popular exhibits from world-renowned photogra-phers is truly worth a visit, if not several, as new exhibits are constantly being shown. And like many museums nowadays, the Photographic Museum has an excellent bistro, under Chef Paul Svensson. The bistro also boasts one of Stock-holm’s most beautiful views. It is located at the top of the building, in the old Customs & Excise house. With its magnificent panoramic windows there are views of Djurgården, the Old Town and Skeppsholmen. For the summer season, ‘Photo-graphic’ has erected a barbecue right on the edge of the dock with the same mag-nificent views and Paul’s great barbeques. If the museum doesn’t interest you, a visit simply to soak up the ambience is worth the effort. Occassionally entertain-ment is laid on in the guise of concerts, quizzes, ‘After Art’, dances and stand-up comics. You’ll hardly notice the traffic from the boring Stadsgårdsledning.
WouLD You L IKe to HAVe YouR oWn Issue oF F Ine D In InG In YouR e -MA I L - FRee oF cHARGe?PLeAse GIVe us An e-MAIL to [email protected]
DIVeRsIonsBY SAYAN ISAKSSONPuBLISHED BY TERROIRENGLISH SuBTITLES
Disregard the plain cover. That’s just the way it is. This book, from master chef Sayan, presents gastronomy at its finest. There are no recipes included; Sayan’s excesses are not something that can be created or even attempted by the rest of us. Just enjoy and mar-vel at Sayan’s personal interpretation of sushi, Friday comfort food, and pre-paring a lobster like never before. To experience Sayan’s creations properly, with all the senses, you have to dine at his restaurant Esperanto, which has won many awards over the years. The Master class and the Best Restaurant of the Year in the White Guide are just two that pepper an illustrious career. Sayan is not only an excellent chef; he is an aesthete of gigantic proportions, much like a talented singer or artist. The book is written in English which makes it possible for the world to en-joy Sayan’s creations.
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FRAntzén ALone At RestARuRAnG FRAntzénThe fabulously famous Frantzén Lindeberg tavern, has been renamed. The two success-ful chefs have gone their separate ways and it is now called Restaurant Frantzén.
“I’m not alone,” says Björn Frantzén. “All in all we are twelve chefs in the kitchen cook-ing for nineteen guests.” Björn is careful to emphasize that all of them contribute to the fortunate guests’ experiences at this unique restaurant.
The accolades honouring both Björn and his restaurant were recently corroborated when he was presented with the Chef’s Pub Award and the Chef of Chefs Award - one hundred Swedish chefs voted for their own personal favorites.
“It feels like that little bit extra,” says Bjorn. “Chefs are not always so generous with their praise! Even if it’s great, they often just say thanks and leave,” he explains.
notes
WHIsKY FoR suMMeR ceLeBRAtIonsThe trend of towards whisky seems here to stay. Glenfiddich has a fresh new whis-ky called Rich Oak with summery tones of citrus, vanilla and green fruits. It works well as a flavor enhancer for both sweet and savory summer dishes. Rich Oak with a piece of lemon cheesecake underlines the tangy tones of citrus. Or, as they do on the continent, add a twist of lemon.
The background to Glenfiddich Rich Oak differs from other whiskys in that it is stored in both new American oak barrels and new Spanish oak during the final phase of the maturing process. The Amer-ican oak contributes vanilla tones and the Spanish casks the citrus elements.
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tHe neW nAtIonAL sWeDIsH cuLInARY teAM
The team consists of eight chefs and five pastry chefs all with a com-mon goal - to bring home the Olympic gold in 2016! ”It’s both exciting and kind of scary,” said Claes Hasselhuhn from the City Hall Restaurant. ”We have a lot to defend, while at the same time we have to start from scratch again.” Isaac Wiig from Restaurant Modis nods in agreement. We look forward to following their progress.
The Swedish National Culinary Team is:Isak Wiig, Restaurang Modis, StockholmFredrik Larsson, Le Rouge, StockholmFrida Nilsson, Clarion Hotel Trondheim, TrondheimJoel Englund, Katrinelund Gästgiveri & Sjökrog, Stora MellösaSebastian Gibrand, Oaxen, StockholmEddy Zippert Karlsson, Swedish Taste, GothenburgEdin Dzemat, Linnea Art, GothenburgHelena Henriksson, Tössebageriet, StockholmClaes Hasselhuhn, Stadshusrestauranger, StockholmAnders Oskarsson, Nilssons konditori, OskarshamnJonas Lagerström, Bölgen och Moi, OsloKalle Bengtsson, Ica Maxi bageri, KungsbackaFredrik Andersson, West Coast, GothenburgElev: Frida Knutsson, GothenburgLagledare: Jonas Franzén, Restaurang Modis, Solna
The Junior National Swedish Culinary Team culinary team:Lindor Wink, OxelösundRobert Sandberg, Noma, CopenhagenEric Seger, TrosaJohan Laiti, Hemmagastronomi, LuleåSofie Nilsson, Vete-Katten, StockholmLudwig Tjönemo, TyresöThomas Sjögren, Swedish Taste, GothenburgElev: Viktor Ankarberg, Stockholms Restaurangskola, BrommaLagledare: Peter Jelksäter
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MeALs on WHeeLs, A tRucK LoADeD WItH BánH MIThe world’s most delicious sandwiches – bánh mi - born when street vendors began filling French loaves with native flavors: like crunchy sour pickles, cilantro, spicy mayo, chilli and cucumbers, topped with marinated pork, chicken, tofu or other tasty meat products.It’s the world’s tastiest sandwich! We have encountered bánh mi in different ver-sions in places we’ve visited around the world, and every time wondered why it’s not available at home Stockholm. “So, we’ve grown tired of waiting and have taken matters into our own hands,” says Christopher Lund, one of the founders of Bun Bun.So far they serve four varieties of bánh mi: braised pork belly, lemongrass mari-nated chicken, grilled tofu and the classic with three kinds of cold cuts. The focus is primarily on the Stockholm area and is to be found on the streets, at festivals and markets places.The men behind Bun Bun are Kristofer Lund, Anders Gabrielsson and Martin La-gerberg who launched Restaurant Land in 2005 and Färgfabrikens Café (The Old Paint Factory) in 2008.
Fine Wines very own homepage
w w w.f inewine.nu Here you’ll find the last 4 editions of Fine Wine
GRAnD HoteL’s RIVIeRA teRRAce “The Med meets the Salt Lake” has been the guiding principle for work being carried out on the terrace. In particular, with the iron fence from Bur-man Palace, Grand has created a clas-sic outdoor dining area inspired by the French Riviera. Here, guests can enjoy the southern Europe-influenced menu, resting comfortably in chairs made by Josef Frank and Swedish Tenn (Pewter). The view across the water is charming but if you prefer ‘people watching’ the highways department recently widened the sidewalk into a proper boardwalk. A perfect place to watch the world go by. Behind the iron fence is a lounge and a large bar framed by citrus and olive trees to give a genuine Mediterranean feel to the place.
ALL oF us In cuLInARY sWeDen, LeD BY RuRAL AFFAIRs MInIsteR esKIL eRLAnDsson, WIsH eVeRYone A VeRY nIce suMMeR!
Ewa
Säfv
enbe
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VIsIt us At FAceBooK
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ÅnGBÅtsBRYGGAn, steAM BoAt quAY
A neW RestAuRAnt In tHe VenIce oF tHe noRtHPHOTO : ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR
The Strand has been a favorite stretch of road for both resi-
dents and visitors to Stockholm since the great exhibition of 1897. Now with the Ångbåtstbryggan in place it links history, culture, art and entertainment together.
Pelle Johansson and Tommy Lindström are the brains behind
suRRounDeD BY BeAutIFuL steAMBoAts, ALonG stRAnDVäGen In tHe VenIce oF tHe noRtH’s ÅnGBÅtsBRYGGAn (steAM
BoAt quAY), tHIs DIstRIct In stocKHoLM HAs A LonG HIstoRY As A nAutIcAL MuseuM AnD Is PeRFectLY MIRRoReD HeRe In
tHe WAteRs oF tHe steAM BoAt-Densest cItY In tHe WoRLD.
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stRAnDVäGen HAs Been A FAVoRIte stRetcH oF RoAD FoR BotH
ResIDents AnD VIsItoRs to stocKHoLM sInce tHe GReAt
exHIBItIon oF 1897.
the Steamboat menus which are inspired by the old first, second and third class bills of fare.
“What does that entail?” we ask Pelle.
“Well, the 1st Class is right here in the lounge and the 2nd Class is for those who prefer to sit outside in the sun enjoying themselves.”
“And what about the third class,” we wonder?
“It’s all around you,” says Pelle with a laugh. “Actually, it’s the wine list which is divided into dif-ferent classes, and the menu offers a variety of luxury snacks such as canapés and duets. We also serve more substantial fare - Steamboat steak and steak á la minute. “
The Interior designer responsible for Ångbåtsbryggan (Steam Boat Quay Restaurant) is Lars Lide-
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gren. Paying detailed attention to that time in history, he has created an inspiring environment where nothing has been left to chance. Even the miniature steam engine can be studied in detail in The Captain’s Bar.
Ångbåtsbryggan really offers a journey back in time. Berthed by the quayside are the S/S Mo-tala Express, S/S Fritiofsberg, S/S Nocturne and S/S Tiffany and all can be viewed while enjoying a glass of champagne. The idea of the pier is to bring to life this im-
portant period in Swedish indus-trial history. The turn of the cen-tury was its busiest period where no less than 200 steamers plied their trade across Lake Mälaren. Four of these are now moored at Ångbåtsbryggan.
The boats themselves can also be chartered, either seagoing or as a ‘chambre separée’ with a magnifi-cent view of the bay.
tHe steAMBoAt Menus WHIcH ARe InsPIReD BY tHe oLD FIRst, seconD AnD tHIRD cLAss BILLs
oF FARe
PeLLe JoHAnsson toMMY LInDstRöM
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Good news for Connoisseurs!This spring you have the possibility to buy rare bottles at Systembolagets online auctions in collaboration with Stockholms Auktionsverk at www.stadsauktion.se.
Next auction10-12 of June starting at 1 pm
More information about the auctions at www.systembolaget.se
FineWine_180x240_Fogra39_300.indd 1 2013-05-24 07:46
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FLoWeRs on tHe tABLe...TExT: CARL WACHTMEISTER
IF I sAY ‘Roses’ WHAt’s tHe FIRst tHInG tHAt coMes to MInD? PRoBABLY tHe LonG-steMMeD ReD Roses tHAt You GAVe
YouR sWeetHeARt on VALentIne’s DAY. tHeRe WeRe Roses In tHe BRIDAL Bouquet At tHe Recent sWeDIsH RoYAL WeDDInG,
sIGnIFYInG LoVe AnD DeVotIon.
Roses, AnD ABoVe ALL Its PetALs, cAn Be InteGRAteD Into tHe WHoLe MeAL IF DesIReD
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You may think of your care-fully cherished and culti-
vated roses growing in your gar-den. Lovers of the great outdoors might think of the wild rose with rose hips. Beautiful to look at, the hips make a good soup and a healthy rosehip syrup. Not so much fin are those large thorny bushes that hook into you when t’s pruning time. Many of us have
a relationship to roses.Having previously worked in the Middle East, I have also en-countered the rose in many other unlikely environments such as the bazaars, as a perfume in the form of rose oil or rose water for the face, or candied rose petals as confectionary or for delicate pas-tries. At home, rosehips and espe-cially rosehip soup and syrup are
noW, We’Re HeADInG to sWeDen In tHe YeAR 2013. tHe PRoJect, BAseD In sWeDen AnD ecuADoR Is A BLossoMInG enteRPRIse tHAt Is totALLY FocuseD on tHe Rose.
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the by-products of the rose that most Swedish people are familiar with. The Nypon brand is one of the most vitamin C-rich items we can find on home soil. Rose petals are also used in the distillation of some brandies and liqueurs, for garnishing dishes and to enhance the aroma pot pourri. In the Middle Ages monks pro-duced rose honey that was used both as a sweetener and to heal all manner of ailments. But that was back then.
Now, we’re heading to Sweden in the year 2013. The project, based in Sweden and Ecuador is a blos-soming (I couldn´t resist ...) en-terprise that is totally focused on the rose. I’m talking about Ne-vado Roses. Today, John Nevado is at the helm, leading the inter-national company started by his father, who initially worked in wholesale in Stockholm. In the late 90s they planted their own farms in Ecuador and this has
tHe DInneR WItH A Roses tHeMe, cAn Be RounDeD oFF WItH A DesseRt oF PeARs AnD Roses.
now expanded into several planta-tions. As well as producing stun-ning blooms, however, they also recognize and place great empha-sis on social responsibility to the environment where they cultivate their crops. As in all businesses you do your best to drive your company forward. An example of this is that they not only put flow-ers on the table but put them on the plate too.
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Roses, and above all its petals, can be integrated into the whole meal if desired - with the initial cocktail, as well as the nibbles and light snacks, as an appetizer with artichokes and roses through to the main course. Why not duck with rose petal jelly? The dinner with a Roses theme, can be rounded off with a dessert of pears and roses. Your imagina-tion sets the limits. It is important, of course, that you maintain a certain balance so that everything doesn’t taste of rosewater. Be-sides the rose itself, the company has developed other products. Currently they offer rose honey,
But IF JoHn neVADo HAs HIs WAY, tHeRe WILL Be An IMPRoVeMent on tHAt FRont. ALReADY, soMe oF ouR Best RestAuRAnts ARe on HIs LIst oF custoMeRs, AnD tHeRe WILL Be MoRe to coMe.
and rose-infused salt and vinegar. Considering that it’s a fairly un-usual ingredient, some experi-mentation is in order. To assist its customers Nevado Roses has developed special packaging for what it calls ‘Culinary Roses’, suitable for use in cooking. Cus-tomers can however, go to a regu-lar florist to buy the roses, which might seem somewhat odd when you’re actually shopping for gro-ceries. They can also be ordered in advance. Cooking with roses is not so common in Sweden but
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Rose
A genus plant of the Rosaceae family, which has about 200 species spreading from subtropical to cold temperate regions. The fruit is known as rose hips. In Sweden there are approximately 20 varieties of wild roses. In its cultivated form it extends back through history thousands of years in countries like Persia, Egypt, India and China. Although modern varieties are mostly grown for their beauty and fragrance, they have previously been of great importance as medi-cinal plants as well as being mythological, mystical and religious symbols. They also occur fairly frequently in heraldry; for example the English Civil War in the 1400s was called The War of the Roses because both warring factions had roses in their coats of arms. In politics, the rose is also the symbol of a political party. Finally, of course there is the rose in music and literature. One of the most fa-mous is of course Sleeping Beauty... Nevado Roses
www.nevadoroses.com
if John Nevado has his way, there will be an improvement on that front. Already, some of our best restaurants are on his list of cus-tomers, and there will be more to come. The question is how brave you’re prepared to be on the home front? Instead of lovely roses in a beautiful vase at the next birthday celebrations, why not try cooking with them instead? The answer is probably a compromise – do both! Good luck with giving a wonder-ful new dimension to the rose…on the plate.
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fine dining
YOUR RECRUITMENT PARTNERS WITHIN FMCGWITH FOCUS UPON IMPORTERS
Since 2000, Sikta Urval, a company within the Sikta Group has been
a strategic partner in FMCG.
Regardless of whether you are seeking staff or you yourself are working within the industry and you want to take a
look at something new then Sikta can be your partner. In the initial phase all consultations are free and strictly confidential.
Over the years we have contributed in finding absolute Leaders in their field. We have clients that we
been associated with for more than 10 years. We have seen little small operators go on to be industrial leaders within just a couple of years.
Part of their success is of course the personnel.
We HeLP:
Producers, Wine & Spirits importers / HoReCa & Food operatives.
We RecRuIt:
Product managers / Brand Managers / Senior Brand Managers / Account managers / key account managers / Blenders / Managing Directors / Sales and marketing
Managers and Others.
You can always just contact us. Or let us contact you, email or text me and we will get back to you immediately.
www.sikta.se Andreas Flyckt [email protected]
070-725 48 36 direct or vx 08 678 00 00
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fine dining
RenAIssAnce FoR tHe BAcK RooM snuGTExT: CATARINA OFFE
ouR eAtInG HABIts cHAnGe oVeR tIMe Just LIKe ouR RestAuRAnt HABIts, ouR PReFeRences AnD tHe econoMY. A cLeAR
tRenD Is An IncReAse In eAtInG out AnD In MoRe VARIeD FoRMs. soMe PeoPLe DIne out seVeRAL tIMes A WeeK AnD tHe
DeMAnD FoR DIFFeRent KInDs oF FooDs HAs IncReAseD.
It is not enough to go to gourmet restaurants on the weekends
and eat pizza during the week. Our trend-conscious chefs and restaurant owners are quick to catch on.
Here in Stockholm, one restaurant that is very popular is the Opera Cellar’s back room Snug. This back room Snug offers limited and intimate seating to a small number of people. The Opera Cel-
lar Snug is well known and has been popular for years. Regulars patrons mingle with the tourists and tasty fare has always graced the menu. Now it has been joined by several like-minded restau-rants around Stockholm and even more are on their way. Next door to Mathias Dahl’s Gens luxurious dining room is his Food Bar, as fa-mous and popular as its illustrious neighbor. The food is as close to fine dining as you can get without actually being there. And Mathi-as, who runs it himself, is omni-present. Many restaurants have no tables free for those who don’t book ahead. Pontus Frithiof has
recently sold his Pontus By The Sea, and opened up the back room Snug of his main restaurant Pontus instead. The menu features good food, lovingly prepared but with simple ingredients, and served at a fast pace by smiling staff. The award-winning Gastrologik is al-ways full at lunchtime as is the
Speceriet next door. It has a small menu but the food is always well-prepared. This year’s Restaurant Oaxen has acquired their Slipen with Magnus Ek’s interpretation of Swedish bistro food. Tasty, uncomplicated dishes, many of which are meant to shared be-tween two or more diners. Here you can book a table or just drop in. The gourmet restaurant Leij-
ontornet (Lions Tower) converted a number of years ago to the more rustic Animal with its gastro pub Pubology next door. Most of the guests sit at a long table and the hamburgers are supreme. Also the prize winning Esperanto has its Råkul-tur (Raw Culture) which, as the name suggests, is an interpreta-tion of Sayan Eriksson’s Japanese
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expectations with its dining con-cept which is based on simplicity, everyday pleasures and the sea, as well as his Asian-inspired EAT food mall.
Not to be outdone, the Melker An-dersson/ Daniel Couets restaurant group offers everything from the highest level in F21 to its fast food restaurant Vigårda, where food is roasted over a large charcoal grill. Easy, fast, healthy and fresh. It doesn´t have to be any more com-plicated than that.
dishes of the highest standard.The benefits of having a back room snug is that mostly you’re using the same kitchen, same chefs with the same approach to quality, even if the raw materials
are somewhat simpler. The Fly-ing Elk is Frantzén’s new pub, a block away from the luxurious Frantzén’s, and has quickly be-come a hot favourite for food-ies. Luxury restaurateur Henrik Norström’s B.A.R. satisfies all
FöRDeLARnA MeD en BAKFIcKA VäGG I VäGG äR Att Det oFtAst äR
sAMMA KöK, sAMMA KocKAR ocH sAMMA sYn PÅ KVALItet oM än
RÅVARoRnA äR nÅGot enKLARe.
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Alkohol är beroende-framkallande.
ALLESVERLOREN TOURIGA NAÇIONAL13,5%VOL, 750ML
ART.NR 2005, 120KR
www.janake.se
BETYG:FYND! 87 poängDINA VINER PROFESSIONAL EDITION
”BÄSTA BLAND TROTJÄNARNA PÅ DEN TROTJÄNARNA PÅ DEN TROTJÄNARNA
SVENSKA VINLISTAN”
BESTSOUTH AFRICAN PROFILE VARIETY
FYND!
BÄSTA KÖP!LÖRDAG. EN GOD START
PÅ DIN VINKÄLLARE
FYND!BETYG: 5/5
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FIne ARt AnD FIne FooD At tHe tHIeL PALAce GALLeRY TExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, MONIKA AHLBERG, EWA-MARIE RuNDquIST
on tHe tIP oF tHe IsLAnD oF DJuRGÅRDen In stocKHoLM, LIes tHe tHIeL PALAce GALLeRY, A MuseuM tHAt uP to noW
HAs LIVeD A RAtHeR oBscuRe exIstence. eARLIeR tHIs YeAR It WAs RenoVAteD AnD tHe unIque eDVARD MuncH exHIBI-
tIon HAs AttRActeD VIsItoRs FRoM FAR AnD WIDe. A MAJoR contRIButInG FActoR to tHIs success Is tHe FAct tHAt
tHe HItHeRto MoDest cAFe HAs Been tAKen oVeR BY tHe RenoWneD MonIKA AHLBeRG, KnoWn to MAnY As tHe FAce oF
RosenDAHL’s GARDen AnD WHo HAs 17 PoPuLAR cooKeRY BooKs to HeR nAMe.
“tHe MoRe PRoBLeMs, tHe GReAteR tHe eneRGY,” sAYs MonIKA.
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When Monika takes on some-thing, it’s action stations.
Not many days after the inaugura-tion of the Munch exhibition, the Café had to move to larger prem-ises which were formerly the cu-rator’s private residence.
“The more problems, the greater the energy,” says Monika. Along with a group of enthusiastic young people, she runs the cafe offering delicious sandwiches, pastries and elegant cakes created in the make-shift kitchen.
“It’s imperative that everything looks good. I would never dream of setting up something that doesn’t meet my standards,” says Monika. She also offers soups and light meals.
“In the not too distant future we hope to offer tours of the gallery’s unique art collection along with a good meal.” The Thiel Palace has many rarities in their collections that have never been on display and Monika likes the synergy of fine art, house, garden and food. We can also enjoy the newly launched exhibition of Stockholm fashion photography from the best fashion photographers.
A MAJoR contRIButInG FActoR to tHIs success Is tHe FAct tHAt tHe HItHeRto MoDest cAFe HAs Been tAKen oVeR BY tHe RenoWneD MonIKA AHLBeRG
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Monika is a trained dancer but her career in food began many years ago when she used to jog past Rosendahl’s garden. There she ran into food creator Pauls and garden creator Lars Krantz. Somehow Monika became re-sponsible for the garden’s café and in doing so created a brand new cafe culture. Monika was one of the key figures of the 60’s and appreciated good food, a taste for which she developed when toured as a dancer in Italy for a year. She has always had a desire to create but she couldn’t bake - her bis-cuits looked far from perfect but they were tasty and the guests loved them. Rosendal’s grew and the garden and café quickly be-came famous throughout Sweden. Monika was at Rosendal’s every day for almost 11 years.
“Then one day, I decided I’d had enough,” says Monika. She took a year’s leave of absence, gave birth to twins and never looked back. When I asked why, Monika was a bit hesitant. “It got a little too big,” she reflects. She was more involved behind the scenes than out among the guests. Jams and chutneys were made big batches and sold like hot cakes.
ALonG WItH A GRouP oF entHusIAstIc YounG PeoPLe, sHe Runs tHe cAFe oFFeRInG DeLIcIous sAnDWIcHes, PAstRIes AnD eLeGAnt cAKes cReAteD In tHe MAKesHIFt KItcHen.
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“I wanted to make striped mar-malades and spotted mash,” says Monika, “but there wasn’t the time.” Word got around that Monika was ‘free’ and so she em-barked on a new career of deliver-ing lectures, training courses and writing cookery books. Her home has been a cooking studio, photo studio and recording studio. The latest book in her series is a ba-sic cookbook, but it looks like a magnificent work. The recipes are simple, no strange ingredients, and everything looks incredibly tasty. The book quickly became the favourite of young people and is a popular student gift.
The Thiel Gallery has been nag-ging her for years, and Monika thought it might be fun again, but not as a job. “I’ve just done what I would have done anyway,” she says, looking as cheerful as al-ways.
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The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society for both professionals
and amateurs , with roots that stretch back to the year 1248. The society is represented in
about 70 countries and has more than 25000 members worldwide. From its headquarters
in Paris the organization is headed by President Yam Atallah In 1959 the Balliage de la
Suéde was founded by amongst others Tore Wretman. In Sweden there are 14 associa-
tions, so called Balliage (Bailliwicks) which is individually responsible for its own program
of activities. Coordination, administration and international contacts are taken care by a
national committee under the leadership of Bailli (Grand Bailiff ) Délègue. One of the soci-
ety’s strong points is the international membership which allows them to make use of the
fantastic network and offers possibilities to take part in any event at all, wherever and
whenever over the whole world.
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DeLIcAcIes In tHe tessIn PALAceTExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE
A stone’s tHRoW FRoM tHe RoYAL PALAce In stocKHoLM Is tHe tessIn PALAce. It WAs tHe PRIVAte ResIDence FoR ARcHI-
tect nIcoDeMus tessIn tHe YounGeR AnD HIs FAMILY. tessIn Is Best KnoWn As tHe ARcHItect WHo BuILt tHe PResent
cAstLe DuRInG tHe LAte 1600s. He BuILt HIs PRIVAte ResIDence At tHe sAMe tIMe so tHAt He couLD MAKe use oF tHe
sKILLeD constRuctIon WoRKeRs WHo WeRe BuILDInG tHe RoYAL ResIDence.
Being no stranger to experi-mentation, his influences
came from France and Italy. How-ever, he was careful not to try and outshine the castle itself. In later years his son and heir proved to be a bit of a wastrel and was forced to sell the palace. Since 1773 it has been the official residence of the Governor of Stockholm. The
current governor is a lady called Chris Heister. Chris was formerly the governor of Västerbotten, in the far north of Sweden, where by her own admission she used to do a lot of fishing and reindeer herding.
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BeInG no stRAnGeR
to exPeRIMentAtIon,
HIs InFLuences cAMe
FRoM FRAnce AnD
ItALY.
Once in Stockholm, she wondered what kind of raw produce would be available. As it turned out it was not at all difficult. Stockholm has both the mainland and 30,000 islands in archipelago contribut-ing to the region’s local produce. You’ll find skilled dairymen and cheese-makers working with both sheep and goat’s milk. There are microbreweries, animal husband-ry, bakers, vegetable growers and fishing operations, both freshwa-ter and salt.
A project the governor is strongly committed to is establishing a per-manent fish market in Stockholm, as befits a seaside city. Chris is happy to enjoy the Lake Mälaren roe along with her guests when she is entertaining officially in the grand dining-room of the palace. This used to be the Tessin’s master bedroom. She invites guests from
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near and far to enjoy local delica-cies. Another cherished project is the city’s involvement in the Ar-chipelago Meat Project. “We need livestock to keep our archipelago open,” explains Chris.
The Island Fund Foundation for the Archipelago was formed in May 2010. They have available island-grown meat with one hun-dred percent traceability to 34
farms within a 100-kilometer radius.
The Tessin Palace’s stately décor contributes much towards the din-ing experience here, making it a memorable occassion.
tHe tessIn PALAce’s stAteLY DécoR contRIButes MucH toWARDs tHe DInInG exPeRIence HeRe, MAKInG It A MeMoRABLe occAssIon. A cAVIAR toAst enJoYeD In tHe MAGnIFIcent PARADe FLooR oVeRLooKInG tHe PeRFectLY GRooMeD BARoque GARDen tuRns Into An ABsoLute DeLIGHt.
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A caviar toast enjoyed in the mag-nificent parade floor overlooking the perfectly groomed baroque garden turns into an absolute delight. On the ground floor is the summer dining room. These days, and weather permitting, a small buffet of tasty snacks is well laid out for the guests’ en-joyment. Even if it is only those who receive an invitation and get the opportunity to experience it, Stockholmers are indeed fortu-nate to have a governor with such a strong commitment to the local produce. We look forward with anticipation to the opening of the fish market.
PS. Tessin Palace is open to the public twice a year.
sInce 1773 It HAs Been tHe oFFIcIAL ResIDence oF tHe GoVeRnoR oF stocKHoLM.
tHe cuRRent GoVeRnoR Is A LADY cALLeD cHRIs HeIsteR AnD
eLLA nILsson
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ABBA tHe MuseeuM PHOTO: OVE CANEMYR
FInALLY. AFteR A LonG WAIt tHe ABBA MuseuM HAs FInALLY oPeneD Its DooRs on tHe IsLAnD oF DJuRGÅRDen In stocK-
HoLM. It Is WItHIn eAsY ReAcH oF DoWntoWn BY tRAM no. 7.
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The red carpet for the well-designed building that houses
the ABBA museum is rolled out all year round. The English Music Hall of Fame is housed here too, with a hotel and the newly opened restaurant Melody Food & Wine.
Inside the Abba Museum is a large-store selling a wide range of ABBA memprabilia. There are Buttons and T-shirts, lots of sou-venirs, and of course the music – CDs and the sheet music to all the ABBA hits.
Once inside the museum, you’ll see an image of yourself as the fifth member of ABBA. There are many other exciting things to see and touch - it is a very tactile
experience. Props and costumes, guitars and more. In addition to that, a very knowledgeable and helpful staff.
This is the place for ABBA fans from all over the world!
Order your admission tickets on-line to avoid lengthy queues. Kids under 6 go free.
www.abbathemuseum.com
once InsIDe tHe MuseuM, You’LL see An IMAGe oF YouRseLF
As tHe FIFtH MeMBeR oF ABBA.
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RIGHt next DooR to tHe ABBA MuseuM Is tHe neWLY oPeneD MeLoDY
HoteL, A BRAnD neW BoutIque HoteL WItH DesIGneR RooMs.
MeLoDY HoteLTExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE
A rewarding and memorable visit to the Abba Museum
may require a little preparation before and a little reflection af-terwards to allow it all to sink in. It’s always nice to do this over a meal or a drink. Right next door to the ABBA museum is the newly opened Melody Hotel, a brand new boutique hotel with designer rooms. As you enter you are met with an open hearth fire, an in-
viting bar and cozy Asiatic-style restaurant. Pass the time outside on the spacious terrace enjoying a glass of champagne in the sun. Mamma Mia!
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www.sundqvist.se/globalsai
EN NY GLOBAL KNIV, I EN NY GLOBAL VÄRLD.
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stRAWBeRRY FIeLDs FoReVeRTExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, EWA SäFVENBERG
tHeRe ARe stuDIes PRoVInG tHAt BeRRIes ARe GooD FoR BotH BoDY AnD MInD. PARtIcuLARLY stRAWBeRRIes, AnD esPecIALLY
sWeDIsH ones. GRoWeRs AnD consuMeRs ALIKe AGRee tHAt tHe sWeDIsH stRAWBeRRY Is unIque. We Put It DoWn to tHe
soIL, tHe cLIMAte AnD tHe MAnY sunsHIne HouRs, ALL oF WHIcH Puts tHe sWeDIsH stRAWBeRRY In A cLAss oF Its oWn.
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The winter has been very long but our growers have prom-
ised us Swedish strawberries in time for Midsummer. So our greatest summer tradition is in safe hands, and although in recent years there has been an increase in technology, there’s still an in-credible amount of work done by hand.
The strawberries are fine resting beneath the snow but not quite as long as this year. Once they see the light of day the growers have to keep an eye on the thermome-ter. One frosty night in June could be devastating and possibly spell disaster. To prevent this, double
layers of frost cloth are put on in the evenings and removed again in the morning.
By using new cultivation tech-niques, farmers have worked hard to extend the Swedish strawberry season. Now, the berries will be available from May to October. Despite increased imports, which are often sold at lower prices, a vine-ripened Swedish strawberry is worth every penny. An analysis of the berries can quickly reveal whether they are Swedish or not, so trying to sell relabeled foreign berries won’t be a profitable en-terprise for a seller. After several low years, picking yourself is all
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the rage again. Harvesting straw-berries is quite a social occasion, and many growers supplement their small farm shops with other produce. Calle Eriksson, presi-dent of Berry Council tells me what makes a happy picker - you get red fingers, a pain in the back and you can eat as you go!
For KC Vallberg of the Gubbhyl-lan at Skansen, strawberries are his favorite berry. He predicts a renaissance of the old root cellar, manufacturing jams, juices and pickles to store for years. How about a 2004 vintage strawberry jam packed with flavor and sun-shine in a jar? Raspberries are
cHeF oF tHe YeAR In 2013, seRVes PIcKLeD stRAWBeRRIes WItH WHIte MeAt. PAstRY cHeF cecILIA AnDeRsson BAKes A DeLectABLe RAsPBeRRY JeLLYRoLL WItH PIstAcHIo AnD I MYseLF MAKe MY FAVoRIte sALAD WItH neW PotAtoes, stRAWBeRRIes, sPInAcH AnD ReD cHILLI.
also one of KC’s favorites and he leaves them hanging on the stalk for as long as possible. Inciden-tally, raspberry varieties now pro-duce red, yellow and black, and for those with strawberry allergies there are now albino strawberries with none of the red colour but all of the flavour. Daniel Rams, Chef of the Year in 2013, serves pick-led strawberries with white meat. Pastry Chef Cecilia Andersson bakes a delectable raspberry jel-lyroll with pistachio and I myself make my favorite salad with new potatoes, strawberries, spinach and red chilli.
The ultimate accompaniment to strawberries is ,of course, cham-pagne - with tiny bubbles, pink, or with a little sweetness, depending on the occasion and your taste. The sweetness will be a little ‘dirty’, which makes it stand out,” says Mischa Billing, sommelier.
And Calle is right again when he says that you’ll be doubly happy when strawberries and cham-pagne are served. Together.
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Alkohol ärberoendeframkallande
Ursprung: Grignan-les-Adhémar, Rhône, Frankrike Producent: Domaine Saint Luc Druvor: 65 % syrah och 35 % grenache
Alkoholhalt: 13 %Importör: BraVin Sverige AB
Nytt Bellman-vinVila vid denna källa 2009
PRIS: 129 KR (beställningssortimentet) Artikelnummer: 79273
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KRoGHuset HoRnHuset TExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: CATARINA OFFE, SIMON BAJADA, LINuS FLODIN
tHe AReA ARounD HoRnstuLL’s stRAnD In stocKHoLM HAs A neW RestAuRAnt. A WHoLe House HAs Been BuILt to tHe
GLoRY oF FooD AnD FIne DInInG. tHe FooD Is InsPIReD BY FLAVouRs oF tHe MeDIteRRAneAn WItH GReAt eMPHAsIs PLAceD
on tHe AFRIcAn coAst.
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In 2010 PetteR Won tHe YounG
cHeF oF tHe YeAR
coMPetItIon AnD Went on to
VIctoRY In tHe concouRs Des
Jeunes cHeFs RotIsseuRs
The architecturally exciting building houses Trattorian
Enzo’s restaurant and Horn House Pub, and a French rotisserie and bar at street level.On the first floor is an open area, the ‘square’. Here you can select from a range of rotisserie and side dishes with Mediterranean fla-vors, with fresh seafood always on the menu.One floor up is the restaurant, with the same standard but with table service and a focus on the dishes. “Here, you should share your food. We like people to eat togeth-er,” says Jesper Ahlbom, owner of
Horn House. It’s especially excit-ing to share a whole fish. Head chef Petter Viding closely moni-tors the availability of various types of fish and buys what is best on the day. The fish is cooked and presented to be filleted in front of the guests. It’s a great way to show children what a fish really looks like! Both the ‘Square’ and the ‘Tavern’ have great outdoor eating areas and the balcony can seat several hundred guests.
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On the top floor is a football pub called Enzo. Enjoy Italian cuisine while watching exciting matches on the big screen. At the top of the house is the residents’ Sum-mer Oasis with its lake-view ter-race, sun loungers and seating for guests to dine. Behind this entire food concept is Petter Viding, 27 years old and a genuine Stockholmer., for which We are thankful he chose to become a chef after school! His mentor is the world famous chef Tommy Myllymäki. Petter began first at the Julita Inn and then followed Tommy to The Colony in Småland Jönköping, which was immediately named as the rising star of the year in the White Guide. In 2010 Petter won the Young Chef of the Year com-petition and went on to victory in the Concours des Jeunes Chefs Rotisseurs where he was placed fourth in a close-run competition with more than twenty young chefs from around the world. Pet-ter’s passion is the North African flavors in many of his dishes. Vegetables play a big role in this. Petter carefully selects his sup-pliers, and works very closely with them. The Italian ingredients
on tHe FIRst FLooR Is An oPen AReA, tHe
‘squARe’. HeRe You cAn seLect FRoM A
RAnGe oF RotIsseRIe AnD sIDe DIsHes WItH
MeDIteRRAneAn FLAVoRs, WItH FResH
seAFooD ALWAYs on tHe Menu.
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come from Peter’s Food & Wine Handle where you often see Tom, his parmesan supplier. Petter has his own private herb garden up on the terrace. The Ahlbom family owns the Horn house. It is a family business whose start in the restaurant trade began 30 years ago. It may take a while before you’ve tasted your way through all of Petter’s dif-
ferent dishes and once you think you’ve done it, you can be certain that he’ll change the menu. So if you happen to be in Stockholm then the Horn House is the obvi-ous choice for you.
tHe AHLBoM FAMILY oWns tHe HoRn House. It Is A FAMILY BusIness
WHose stARt In tHe RestAuRAnt tRADe BeGAn 30 YeARs AGo.
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KAtRIneLunD Is tHe PotAtos MeccATExT: CATARINA OFFE PHOTO: KATRINELuND
RoGeR HeLMet Is one oF tHe Best sWeDIsH cHeFs, soMetHInG WHIcH Is conFIRMeD BY VIsItoRs FRoM neAR AnD FAR.
He HAs Won seVeRAL AWARDs, AMonGst tHeM Best LocAL cHeF oF tHe YeAR AnD WInneR oF tHe cooKBooK WoRLD
cHAMPIonsHIPs.
At Katrinelund you can en-joy culinary experiences of
the highest order all year round at the Sjökrogen Inn. But Roger was not destined to be a chef from the start. He followed the family tradition and became a plumber, which he worked at for some time. As soon as he could decide for himself, he changed tack and trained as a chef. The creative process has always attracted Rog-er. For ten years he pursued a bo-hemian existence which included mountaineering and skiing. These intense sports took him around the world and making a living from what he loved was not a major problem at the time. Res-taurants are everywhere and most of them are in need of additional manpower. And people need to eat. So besides the enjoyment, delight and thrill of the moun-tains and the snow, Roger became widely experienced in the world’s restaurants, big and small. prepar-ing food.
“We WILL Be sWeDen’s Best Inn WItHIn FIVe YeARs,” He DecLARes.
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All good things must come to an end and Roger struck his tent in his childhood town of Örebro, Sweden. It was the year 2000 when he met chef Ronny Pers-son and sweet flavuors arose as a result of that meeting. “We discovered we shared the same thoughts and ideas about food,” says Roger. He and Ronny Pers-son started TASTE IT, a catering company with a twist that became very successful. Some time after this Roger received a call from a restaurateur on Katrinelund, who wanted to know how much a good chef would cost. It had never occurred to Roger to work on Katrinelund. On the contrary, he had always heard that the place was chaotic. Still, he heard him-self say that he just happened to be free at that time. A year later, and he bought out the business and is now operating as co-owner with his daughter Saga as one of his closest ‘colleagues’. Saga has more experience in the restaurant trade than many adults. She’s just turned four years old, and is in charge of picking dill!Roger has lofty goals for the busi-ness. “We will be Sweden’s best Inn within five years,” he de-clares. And they’re on the right road to achieve that. The White
RIGHt noW, RoGeR Is extRA PRouD BecAuse HIs cHeF JoeL enGLunD
WAs RecentLY seLecteD As A MeMBeR oF tHe neW nAtIonAL sWeDIsH
cuLInARY teAM.
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Guide gives them very good re-views, the guests as well. Not sur-prisingly the food philosophy is local and seasonal. Roger is hap-py in the forest searching for ber-ries and mushrooms and the ma-jority of the vegetables are grown in their own kitchen garden. They are completely self-sufficient for herbs and flowers. “And so we live in the potato mec-ca of Big Mellösa,” says Roger and potatoes will therefore always come directly from the farmer. What type is best suited to what cooking method is a constant top-ic of conversation between Roger and his potato farmer. Roger’s fa-vorite ingredients always follow the seasons.During his travels when moun-tain-climbing, France became his favourite country, both for the mountains, the snow and the food.Right now, Roger is extra proud because his chef Joel Englund was recently selected as a mem-ber of the New National Swedish Culinary Team.All of us in Culinary Sweden, led by Rural Affairs Minister Eskil Erlandsson, wish everyone A Very Nice Summer!
RoGeR Is HAPPY In tHe FoRest seARcHInG
FoR BeRRIes AnD MusHRooMs AnD tHe
MAJoRItY oF tHe VeGetABLes ARe GRoWn In
tHeIR oWn KItcHen GARDen.
