Dive Sites of South Africa & Mozambique. ISBN 9781770262287

ISBN 978-1-77026-228-7

9 781770 262287

Introducing the Atlas of Dive Sites of South Africa & Mozambique● Detailed coverage of top dive sites for each diving region● Introduction chapter highlighting: ◗ Overview of South Africa and Mozambique ◗ Basic training and equipment ◗ Dive culture and responsible diving ◗ Treatment of injured divers and recompression chamber policy ◗ Caring for the marine environment ◗ Dangerous marine organisms ◗ Emergency contact details ◗ Marine protected areas● Each chapter features: ◗ Clear and detailed maps of all the dive sites with: ◗ Positions of all sites indicated and cross referenced in the text ◗ Enlargements showing routes, key points, sites and wrecks ◗ Access points to dive sites featured ◗ Location within the region ◗ Underwater depths indicated with colour-coding ◗ Information boxes on other marine adventures or activities in the region ◗ All dives are described in detail with: ◗ First-hand account of the dive and what the experience is likely to be ◗ Concise info boxes featuring: – Diffi culty rating – Type of access (Shore or boat) – Maximum and average depths – Reference to locate the dive site on the map ◗ Area specifi cs on best time to visit, water temperatures, dive conditions

and recommended gear ◗ Beautiful dive images to give you an indication of the dive site features

and underwater views● Includes a separate Marine Species Identifi cation Guide ◗ Marine species are identifi ed by: ◗ Over 175 colour photographs to help you identify species ◗ Size, common and scientifi c names ◗ Brief description and natural history ◗ 31 location maps showing distribution of each species

Vilanculos and the Bazaruto Archipelago

The pristine reefs of the Bazaruto National Park offer superb diving, both from Vilanculos on

the mainland and from the exclusive island lodges. One of the largest marine parks in Africa

and protected since 1971, the 1400km2 park consists of fi ve islands: Bazaruto (the largest),

Benguerra, Magaruque, Santa Carolina (or Paradise Island) and tiny, uninhabited Bangue.

They’re real Robinson Crusoe-style deserted island escapes with high dunes covered in

colourful sprawling creepers, fresh water, crocodile-infested lakes, swaying palm trees and

sandy beaches littered with pansy shells and lapped by clear, intense blue water. As you cruise

around, turtles swim over to check you out and humpback and spinner dolphins frolic in the

swell. And divers and snorkellers who put their heads into the water are treated to an amazing

display of colourful corals, diverse tropical fi sh and big pelagics such as manta rays. The waters

of the archipelago are home to all fi ve marine turtle species of the western Indian Ocean,

several dolphin species (including striped and Fraser’s dolphin that are predominantly found

offshore but occasionally venture inshore to the archipelago), as well as the elusive dugong.

10

the corner | ray alley | brindle bass ridge | allan’s realm | amphitheatrecamel hump | twelve mile reef | turtle ridge | manta ray reef | rainbow runneraquarium | greek temple | ponta dundo | fi ve mile reef

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22 cape peninsula and false bay cape peninsula and false bay 23

climb over boulders from the Oudekraal parking lot south of the Twelve Apostles Hotel, or after a 14km boat ride from Hout Bay Harbour or Oceana Power Boat Club. It’s best to dive this site after a southeast wind in summer when the water will be clear but cold. Check swell conditions before setting off.

From the shore, it’s a short snorkel through kelp and a sunshot descent through flickering crowds of hottentot and kelp stipes to the brilliantly coloured reefs and rock cathedrals below. Fragile bryozoans and fan hydroids jostle for space among acid yellow sponges, blue and orange anemones, as well as crowds of the pink noble coral after which the site is named. Cowled nudibranchs sweep their pale hoods through the water in search of edible prey. Basket stars and klipfish stud the walls, while cuttlefish and octopus manage to evade the notice of all but the sharp-eyed. Caves, some containing air pockets, are treasure houses of the more fragile and elusive animals. Bring a torch.

This site can be dived by open-water divers, but the density of the reef life and its fragility require that divers have good buoyancy control so as not to damage any reef animals.

Castle Rocks/Pyramid Rock ± site 3

Open water

Shore or boat

fi Maximum depth – 18m

‹€ Average depth – 10m

Á Map reference – page 21 F3

This is a large dive site, just south of Miller’s Point, and what you see depends on where in the dive site you go. Pyramid Rock is at the northern end of the complex and is mainly dived for the cowsharks. These elegant animals, which can grow as big as 3.5m, circle the

alleys of the kelp forest surrounding the rock and will approach divers quite closely. They are temperate water coastal animals which eat fishes and crustaceans and are known to pack-hunt seals. They give birth to 60–104 pups per litter at a birth size of about 50cm. It’s an amazing experience to watch them gently glide through the water.

The southern end of the complex consists of jumbled granite boulders with caves, swim-throughs and gullies, all heavily encrusted with invertebrate life. Expect to see Cape urchins, huge anemones, rock crabs, feather stars and red-chested sea cucumbers, along with many species of nudibranchs. Cuttlefish float over the sand and octopus can be spotted, given away by the piles of discarded mussel shells outside their lairs.

This site is best dived in winter, when False Bay is flat, and is usually a fishy dive. Romans, hottentot, strepies, juvenile red steenbras and janbruin can all be seen, as well as pyjama catsharks and puffadder shysharks. Klipfish, triplefins and blennies lurk on the reefs. You might see spotted gully sharks in the overhangs, and whales in winter.

Partridge Point ± site 4

Open water

Boat launch



Á Map reference – page 21 G3

This is a large dive site to the north of Smitswinkel Bay, best dived in winter after a northwest wind. The northern end of

Top sites

Diving in Cape Town is very different from the more usual tropical dive destinations, but its pleasures are many and varied. For more detailed information about Cape Peninsula and False Bay dive sites, go to: http://wikitravel.org/en/Diving_the_Cape_Peninsula_and_False_Bay

Star Walls ± site 1

Advanced

Boat launch



Á Map reference – page 18 C1

Star Walls is a stunning dive to the south of Maori Bay, about a ten-minute ride from Hout Bay Harbour. It is relatively exposed, so is only diveable on low-swell days, usually in summer. After a good southeast blow, when the upwelled water is clean, visibility can be well over 20m.

The wall starts at 8m and drops almost vertically down to 32m. It is the highest and longest known wall, extending for about 100m east-west, with another 50m on

the southeast face. The top of the wall is covered with kelp and redbait pods, the walls themselves are thickly encrusted with invertebrate life, and overhangs and vertical cracks provide microhabitats for more fragile creatures. The bottom of the wall ends in sand and scattered boulders.

The invertebrate life is varied and often well camouflaged, like the shaggy sponge crabs, sumo crabs and cuttlefish. Basket stars, grey fan hydroids, pink noble

corals, dreadlocks hydroids, multihued anemones and sponges make the site vivid with colour. It’s nudibranch wallpaper for the most part: Mandela’s nudibranchs, candy nudibranchs, gas flames, silvertips and black nudibranchs can all be seen in profusion here, as can the rare dark-toothed cowrie. Klipfish peer out from crevices, along with redfingers and janbruins, and safety stops are usually enlivened by visiting seals.

The trick with diving this site is not to overstay bottom time: there is so much to see it’s easy to forget how deep you are.

Coral Gardens ± site 2

Open water

Shore or boat



Á Map reference – page 18 B2

Coral Gardens is distinguished by superb topography and extraordinary biodiversity. It is an extensive dive site of jumbled granite boulders, caves and overhangs on the Atlantic side of the Cape Peninsula. It can be dived from the shore after a short

above: star wallsright: coral gardens

above: broad-nosed sevengill cowshark (notorynchus cepedianus) – pyramid rock

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174 marine species identifi cation guide marine species identifi cation guide 175

Algoa cone (Conus algoensis) å

size: Up to 5cm. description: A yellow cone-shaped snail. Shell with a rounded shoulder, ‘steps’ between whorls and a narrow opening. Shell colour ranges from yellow to brown, variably marked in streaks and blotches. natural history: Found down to 50m. Predatory: mantle modifi ed to form a harpoon which injects a neurotoxin. similar species: The textile cone (Conus textile) has a pale shell patterned with orange patches, outlined in brown. The geography cone (Conus geographus) has ridges running down the shell, which is pale and covered with reddish-brown patterning. Both are poisonous to humans and can be fatal.

NudibranchsNudibranchs are the most numerous of the sea slugs. They are shell-less molluscs which are often vividly patterned and coloured to warn off predators. Many are toxic, most from acquiring toxins from prey species. Their sensory tentacles are called rhinophores. They are hermaphrodites which leave their eggs ribbons on reefs to hatch into larvae.

variable neon slug (Nembrotha kubaryana) ç

size: Up to 12cm. description: A large, black-bodied nudibranch, variably patterned. Usually striped or dotted in green with vivid orange rhinophores and mouth border; foot also orange outlined. Some with orange spots. natural history: Feeds on colonial sea squirts, absorbing their defensive chemicals and re-using them.

Spanish dancer (Hexabranchus sanguineus) é

size: May reach 40cm. description: A very large nudibranch which may be orange, red or brown, with red mottling. Large gill rosette surrounds anus. Rhinophores and gills orange. natural history: Found down to 40m. Feeds on sponges, worms, sea squirts and marine snails. Swims by undulating body margin. Often seen with a commensal shrimp, Periclimenes imperator.

four-coloured chromodorid (Chromodoris africana) è

size: Up to 7.5cm. description: A black, smooth-bodied nudibranch, with two pale blue lines running down the back, which has a white rim and an orange margin. Gills and rhinophores yellow to orange. natural history: Feeds on sponges.

UrchinsUrchins are the most spiny of all the echinoderms, are armoured in a tough shell or test, and are usually spherical. The mouth is usually on the underside of the animal, with the anus uppermost. Tubefeet in fi ve rows on the underside are used for locomotion, while tiny pincers on stalks defend the animals from predators or settling organisms.

pot-hole urchin (Stomopneustes variolaris) å

size: 10cm. description: A spherical urchin with sturdy tapering spines. Body dark; spines pale, mounted on ball and socket joints. natural history: Found on shallow tropical reefs. Feeds on seaweeds and algae. Stout spines can erode corals.

Cape urchin (Parechinus angulosus) ç

size: 6cm. description: Spherical body covered with dense spines which can be purple, green or red. natural history: Common on rocky shores and reefs down to 98m. Grazes on kelp and other algae. Preyed on by West Coast rock lobsters. May be seen using shells as a sunshade.

MolluscsThe molluscs include chitons (armadillo snails), snails and slugs, cephalopods such as octopus and squid, and bivalves like mussels and clams. They are soft-bodied. Some, like bivalves, snails and chitons, have hard protective shells. The slugs are often beautifully and vividly coloured to advertise their protective toxicity. Cephalopods usually protect themselves through camoufl age, being able to change both their skin colour and texture.

Marine snailsThese animals all have a hard, protective spiral shell, produced by the mantle, and a distinct head with tentacles and a pair of eyes. They have a large foot for locomotion and their mouths have a rasping tongue for feeding. The sexes are usually separate and fertilisation is usually external. Eggs are either laid on a surface or left to fl oat in the plankton.

tiger cowrie (Cypraea tigris) é

size: 10cm. description: A large, beautiful cowrie, plump pale shell variably marked with dark to tawny splotches and blobs. The mantle has many protrusions, probably to aid with camoufl age. natural history: Found from 5–40m, nocturnal. Feeds on soft corals, anemones, sponges, starfi sh and urchins. Juveniles eat algae and detritus. Females sit on eggs until the larvae hatch.

egg cowrie (Ovula ovum) è

size: Up to 8cm. description: A plump, white-shelled snail with a velvety black mantle, spotted with white or yellow; mantle usually completely covers the shell. natural history: Found from 12–20m. Feeds on soft corals and sponges. Eggs laid in cases on reefs; the female may guard them before hatching.

Beautifully demonstrating the reason for its name, a spanish dancer swims é

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A map cowrie (Leporicypraea mappa), its protective mantle half covering its shell ê

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56 south coast – aliwal shoal, landers and protea banks south coast – aliwal shoal, landers and protea banks 57

caves make for interesting exploration, and photogenic specimens include cute little toby puffers and boxfish.

Protea Banks Southern Pinnacles ± site 13Advanced

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 40m‹€ Average depth – 30mÁ Map reference – page 51 F4It was the Zambezi sharks (bull sharks) that initially put Protea Banks on the world dive site map, and the high chance of sighting these fearsome-looking predators on the reef between October and May attracts divers from all over the world. Blacktip sharks are seen year-round while scalloped and great hammerhead sharks make an appearance at the end of the season, making this a top site for shark lovers.

season it’s still an impressive dive on which you’ll probably see potato bass and, if you’re lucky, pineapple fish – a small, yellow, spiny critter with a dazzling smile and a skin pattern that resembles that of a pineapple. The site is normally dived on a north-south current, starting at the south part of North Sands where you’ll often see dolphins.

Inside Edge ± site 11Open water

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 22m‹€ Average depth – 15mÁ Map reference – page 49 D4On the inner, sheltered side of the Shoal, this site consists of a stepped series of ledges and overhangs in which you’ll find scorpionfish, stonefish, lionfish, octopus, boxfish and whitemouth (guinea fowl) moray eels as well as a variety of nudibranchs. Check the sandy patches for rays – and in summer you might even see tiger sharks in mid-water off the southern section of the reef.

Umzimai Wall ± site 12Advanced

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 39m‹€ Average depth – 23mÁ Map reference – page 49 D4A 20m high wall adorned with corals and alive with tropical fish is the highlight of this little-dived site in the southern section of Landers Reef. Swim-throughs, big gullies, ledges and

as 200 have been seen on one dive – so there are strict codes of conduct. The dive starts at a large, open-topped cave which is usually full of raggies. Then you swim past a tunnel – or through it if it is shark-free – past coral gardens to a second open-topped cave with lots of chambers where the raggies like to rest and where, during late spring and early summer, you’ll often see large shoals of hammerhead sharks overhead. Remember also that sharks are not the sole attraction. I was so obsessed with the likelihood of shark interaction on my first dive there that it was only when I’d snapped 20 images of the first shark I spotted that I realised it had black patches on its side and was in fact a massive potato bass! Enjoy the sharks, but try also to look around and appreciate the reef.

Other dive sites

The Nebo ± site 9Advanced

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 26m‹€ Average depth – 18m Á Map reference – page 49 C4Wrecked in 1884, the Nebo lies off the landward (northwestern) edge of the Shoal. The wreck, which lies in two parts, is home to turtles and an abundance of pelagic and reef fish, including the rare harlequin goldie, but visibility is not usually as good as on the Produce.

Chunnel ± site 10Open water

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 17m‹€ Average depth – 12mÁ Map reference – page 49 D4An awesome dive with loads of overhangs, Chunnel, directly inshore from Raggies Cave, is an easy, shallow dive with a channel through which sharks cruise in season. Upwelling of plankton in the area means that there’s also a good chance of sighting manta rays, and reef fish are there in numbers. Outside shark

Protea Banks Northern Pinnacles ± site 8

Advanced

Boat launch



Á Map reference – page 50 H2

Best dived in the winter months (June to November) when the raggies congregate on the reef to mate, this rates as one of the most exciting shark dives in the world. A deep reef some 7.5km out in the open ocean, this is a site for experienced, disciplined divers with a taste for adventure. The briefing gets the heart beating. It’s not just the remoteness, current and other dangers of diving this site; you are looking for sharks – as many

Area Specifics

Best time to go This is a year-round destination but dive conditions are best during the dry season from May to September (the winter months).

Water temperatures

Range from 16°C in winter to around 25°C in summer.

Dive conditions The South Coast generally enjoys good visibility – ranging from 5m to 40m. Launching, in rigid inflatable boats, is from Umkomaas (for Aliwal Shoal – either from the river mouth or from the beach depending on tide and conditions), from Rocky Bay (Landers Reef) or from Shelley Beach (Protea Banks). Accessing these sites sometimes involves an exciting ride through the surf.

Recommended gear

A 5mm wet suit is more than adequate in summer – add a hood/chicken vest, booties and gloves or go for a semi-dry or dry suit in the chillier winter months.

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above: nebo wreck

Newlands Reservoir

Lagoon(Tidal)

Lagoon (Tidal)

Disa

SilvermineDam

Zeek

oevl

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Graaff's Pool

Camps Bay

Bakoven Bay

Koeël Bay

Llandudno Bay

Sandy Bay

Chapman's Bay False Bay

Table Bay

Hout Bay

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Lui Bay

Hout BayHarbour

Glen Beach

Green Point

SaundersRocks

SunsetRocks

Oude Schip

DuikerPoint

DuikerIsland

Chapman's Point

Ratelklip

Noordhoek Beach

Klein Slangkop Point

Danger Beach

Neptune's Corner

West BeachEast Beach

Sunrise Beach

CliftonBeach

AVONWOOD

VOORTREKKER

DE LA REY

SIMON VAN DER STEL

HOUT BAY

VICTORIA

SPAANSC

HEM

ATRI

VER LADIES M

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MILITARY

ROYAL

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MAIN

HIGHLEVEL

MAIN

BEAC

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BEACH

ALBERT

VICTORIA

MARINE

DE WAAL

VICTORIA

RHODES

VICTORIA

MAIN

ADDERLE

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SPINE

TOKAI

BOYES

TAFELBERG

STEENBERG

CHAPMAN'S PEAK

CHAPMAN'S PEAK

NOORDHOEK

CAM

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THIS AREA IN DETAIL

Mouille Point

Three Anchor Bay

Sea Point

Bantry Bay

Llandudno

HOUT BAYHelgarda

Estate

Noordhoek

San Michel

SunValley Clovelly St JamesKalk

Bay

Muizenberg

Marinada Gama

Lakeside

Sillery

Klaassensbosch

Bishopscourt

Zonnebloem

Foreshore

Wingfield GOODWOOD

TownsendEstate

Tygerdal

PAROW

Church HillEstate

Gardens

Tamboerskloof

Vredehoek

Camps Bay

Fresnaye

SaltRiver

CAPE TOWN

Bakoven

Clifton

Green Point

Tokai

CONSTANTIA

Westlake

MILNERTON

Two Oceans Aquarium

Twelve Apostles Hotel

CAPETOWNINT.

AIRPORT

KirstenboschNational

Botanical Garden

SilvermineNature Reserve

Zandvlei Bird Sanctuary


NewlandsForest

Table MountainNational Park


Cecilia State Forest

Star WallsSITE 1

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CoralGardensSITE 2

M16

R102

M3

M63

M3

M63

M6

M6

M3

M41

M42

R310

M32

A

B

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Shark and kelp dives in the Two Oceans AquariumxxxxxxxxxxxxIf you really want to get up close and personal with sharks, turtles andbig gamefish there’s nothing to beat a dive in the I&J Predator Exhibitin the Two Oceans Aquarium. After a short briefing you drop into thetwo-million-litre glass-fronted tank as the big-eyed children and othervisitors to the aquarium gawp at your bravery. This has to be the easiestdive in the Cape – where else can you dive with sharks with just aDiscover Scuba qualification? There’s no surge, the visibility is great,the water is (relatively) warm and there’s a wonderful selection ofpredatory fish all around you. Cheeky turtles come up to check youout, and after the initial adrenalin rush you soon find yourself comfortablewith and intrigued by the ragged-tooth sharks. Advanced divers also have the option of feeding the fish and checkingout the marine life in the surging kelp forest tank. The 800-litre tankis home to galjoen (the national fish) as well as gully sharks, whitestumpnose, black and white musselcracker, also rock lobsters andperlemoen – and if you’re really lucky you might even spot a rockhopperor African penguin which has been released into the kelp forest for aswim. Although it doesn’t have quite the same kudos as diving in thepredator tank, it’s a fascinating insight into the marine life of the CapeWest Coast.

NOTE:

CAPE TOWN

SOUTH AFRICA

18 19

See legend on page 190

�Percy’s Hole

15m - 49ft

20m - 66ft

100m - 328ft

50m - 164ft

30m - 98ft

Buffels

Rooiels

Pringle Bay

False Bay

The Point

Steenbras Rock

Roman Rock

Pringle Bay

Rooiels

TO GORDON’S BAY

TO KLEINMOND

0 2 km

1 mile0

PringleBay

Hout Bay

Gordon'sBay

Stellenbosch

Somerset West

Simon'sTown

CAPETOWN

BellvilleTable Bay

False Bay

Cape Point

R44

R44

AREA OF THIS INSET

15m

- 49

ft

20m

- 66

ft

30m

- 98

ft

Overhang

Low Granite Outcropsand Sand Patches

Swim-through

Narrow GapPinnacle

N

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StarWalls

� Max 32m�� Average 20m

15m

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66ft

30m

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Overhangs

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CoralGardens

Oudekraal

BOAT ENTRY & ROUTE

LIGHTHOUSE

DIVE AREA

SHORE ENTRY

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PLACE OF INTERESTTwo Oceans Aquarium

REEF

TOP SITE�Smits WrecksKEY

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Coral Gardens

Star Walls

Tafelberg Reef

15m - 49ft

20m - 66ft

30m - 98ft

50m - 164ft

Llandudno Bay

Sandy Bay

HoutBay

Lui Bay

ATLANTIC OCEANSunsetRocks

Oude Schip

Duiker Point

DuikerIsland

VICTORIA

Llandudno

Hout Bay

TO CLIFTO

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NO

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M6

OF SOUTH AFRICA & MOZAMBIQUE

ATLAS OF

DIVE SITES

157 detailed dive site descriptions

50 pages of detailed topside & underwater maps

Over 150 marine species identifi ed | Over 300 colour photographs

ATLAS O

F DIV

E SITES OF SO

UTH

AFR

ICA & M

OZA

MB

IQU

E

by Fiona McIntoshwith Marine Species Identifi cation Guide by Georgina Jones

Endorsed by Mozambique Tourism (INATUR)The National Tourism Institute (INATUR) is a government organization and it is responsible for the promotion of the development of tourism through marketing, technical and fi nancial assistance to local operators, ensures the standard of quality of tourism accommodation, training and provision of assistance on undertakings of tourism interest. Main object is to make Mozambique a world class destination.

Cover photograph by Geoff Spiby

contents

introduction 2

chapter 1 cape peninsula and false bay 16

chapter 2 southern cape coast – gansbaai and the garden route 26

chapter 3 port elizabeth, port alfred and east london 36

chapter 4 south coast – aliwal shoal, landers and protea banks 46

chapter 5 durban and the north coast 58

chapter 6 sodwana bay 68

chapter 7 northern maputaland – mabibi and kosi bay 80

chapter 8 southern mozambique 90

chapter 9 the manta coast 102

chapter 10 vilanculos and the bazaruto archipelago 116

chapter 11 nampula – nacala bay, baixo do pinda, memba bay and ilha de mozambique 126

chapter 12 northern mozambique – pemba and the quirimbas archipelago 138

chapter 13 inland dive sites 148

marine species identification guide 154

contacts 187


ATLAS OF

DIVE SITES

Durban and the North Coast

Scuba divers in Durban are spoilt for choice. The most popular dive sites in South Africa

are within easy reach – Aliwal Shoal located off uMkomaas is nearby and the ever-popular

Sodwana Bay is a few hours’ drive away. It’s tough to compete against the best and, because

of the unpredictable diving conditions, scuba diving off Durban is very often overlooked by the

large local diving community. Nevertheless, the diving is easily accessible by a safe boat launch

from Vetch’s Pier and there are a number of interesting reefs and wrecks off Durban and the

North Coast that will appeal to the novice, advanced and technical diver, as well as a good

social scene – don’t forget to drop by the Durban Undersea Club for breakfast after the dive.

There are also some stunning artificial reefs for which the Oceanic Research Institute needs

to receive credit. These reefs add a greater diversity of marine life and bring with them higher

productivity. The Durban Bight region is largely devoid of reefs, and the artificial reefs were

colonised by invertebrates, seaweeds and over 84 species of fish within the first year of sinking.

5cooper’s light wreck | fontao wreck | outer anchorage or number one reef t-barge | blood reef | vetch’s pier | limestone | griqualand | anchor hill | containers

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THIS AREA IN DETAIL

KranskloofNR

Escombe

QueensburghDURBAN

KranskloofNR

Diving and snorkelling in uShaka Marine WorldIf diving in the open ocean doesn’t appeal, fear not – you can have oneof the best submarine interactions of your life in the crystal clear, 4mdeep Avis Snorkel Lagoon and Open Ocean tanks of uShaka MarineWorld. Calypso Diving and Adventure Centre offer everything from atwo-hour Discover Scuba Diving experience for complete beginners (inthe Lagoon where you can mingle with all sorts of curious reef fish) toinstructor courses. There are roughly 1 500 species in the Lagoon,including beautiful coachmen, emperor angelfish and even sharks. Butdon’t let the word shark intimidate you on this one – the only sharksyou’ll find in the Lagoon are harmless smooth houndsharks only a metrelong! And if you’re taken with the sport and want to progress to thenext stage – a full open-water scuba diving qualification – they’ll deductthe cost of the ‘try dive’ from the course fee and start you on yourtraining. Qualified open-water divers have the choice of diving in theLagoon or the Open Ocean tank, home to a variety of gamefish includingpompano and kingfish, and cheeky white-spotted eagle rays that lovecoming up to nibble your mask or arms. Twice a week divers have theopportunity to experience a night dive in the floodlit Lagoon. This isquite a privilege as night diving is quite eerie and only offered by mostdive operators under specific (i.e. good, calm) conditions on easy shallowdive sites in the sea. Give it a go – it’s a very, very different experienceto diving in the day. The good news for adrenalin junkies wanting to eyeball sharks is thatyou don’t even need a scuba qualification. Three times a day, at 10:30,13:00 and 16:00, the brave can sign up for the Xpanda Shark Dive ledby guides from uShaka and, from the safety of an acrylic cage, get upclose and personal with Zambezi and ragged-tooth sharks. Snorkels andmasks are provided so you need only bring your swimming gear to enjoythe unique privilege of interacting with the sleek apex predators.XXXXXX Sounds too scary? Perhaps you’d rather not be in the predator tank?Then sign up for a session in the Avis Snorkel Lagoon where you canenjoy the colourful fish life and watch the sharks swimming around thepredator tank through the underwater panels. Buoyancy vests, masksand snorkels are provided so even if you’re a poor swimmer you canrelax and enjoy this amazing window onto the underwater world. Or how about a walk on the ‘wet’ side? Again no dive qualificationsare required for the Ocean Walker experience in the Open Ocean tank– you simply don a helmet that feeds air from the surface and strollaround checking out the rays, sand sharks, dorado, tuna and otherfascinating sea creatures. uShaka Marine World really is one of Southern Africa’s most excitingmarine playgrounds. In addition to all the diving experiences there’s SeaWorld and the fascinating, well-presented underground aquarium toexplore, dolphin and seal shows, a water park, wonderful restaurants,numerous food outlets, a retail park and a host of beach and otheradventures that will entertain both kids and big kids for hours!XXXXXX

NOTE:

A

B

D

1 2

C

60


TO uMHLANGA

N

Fontao Wreck Max 27m Average 18m

BOAT ENTRY & ROUTE

LIGHTHOUSE

DIVE AREA

SHORE ENTRY

OTHER SITEBatsata Maze


REEF

TOP SITESmits WrecksKEY

T-Barge

Fontao Wreck

Outer Anchorage(Number One Reef)

Vetch’s PierLimestone

Containers

Anchor Hill

15m

- 49

ft

20m

- 66

ft

30m

- 98

ft50

m - 164

ft

INDIAN OCEAN

Glen Ashley

DURBAN

uShakaMarine World

The Bluff

South Beach

North Beach

Battery Beach

TO uMHLANGA

0 4 km

2 miles0

N2

CAPE TOWN

SOUTHAFRICA

Dol

phin

Coa

st

INDIAN OCEAN

The Bluff

Tongaat Beach

uMdloti

La Mercy

Glen Ashley

uMhlanga

KING SHAKAINTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

MountEdgecombe

Verulam

Outer Anchorage

(Number One Reef) SITE 3

T-Barge SITE 4

Fontao Wreck SITE 2

N2

Dol

phin

Coa

st

N

0 10 km

5 miles0

Snorkelling trips out to seaCalypso Dive and Adventure Centre also offer dailyadventure boat tours from uShaka Marine Worldto check out the shark nets, the old whaling stationand, weather permitting, to snorkel on the reefsand wrecks along the way. Dolphins, whales andsea birds are often sighted, and you might evencatch a glimpse of the biggest fish in the sea, thewhaleshark.xxxxxxxx

NOTE:

3 4

62-63

61

20m - 66ft

Drop-off

Amphitheatre

Cave

TO u

MH

LAN

GA

N


Max 32m Average 25m

SteelStructure

Concrete Base

TO uMHLANGA

N

T-Barge

Max 25m Average 20m

M4

M41

THIS AREA IN DETAIL

KranskloofNR

Escombe

QueensburghDURBAN

KranskloofNR

Diving and snorkelling in uShaka Marine WorldIf diving in the open ocean doesn’t appeal, fear not – you can have oneof the best submarine interactions of your life in the crystal clear, 4mdeep Avis Snorkel Lagoon and Open Ocean tanks of uShaka MarineWorld. Calypso Diving and Adventure Centre offer everything from atwo-hour Discover Scuba Diving experience for complete beginners (inthe Lagoon where you can mingle with all sorts of curious reef fish) toinstructor courses. There are roughly 1 500 species in the Lagoon,including beautiful coachmen, emperor angelfish and even sharks. Butdon’t let the word shark intimidate you on this one – the only sharksyou’ll find in the Lagoon are harmless smooth houndsharks only a metrelong! And if you’re taken with the sport and want to progress to thenext stage – a full open-water scuba diving qualification – they’ll deductthe cost of the ‘try dive’ from the course fee and start you on yourtraining. Qualified open-water divers have the choice of diving in theLagoon or the Open Ocean tank, home to a variety of gamefish includingpompano and kingfish, and cheeky white-spotted eagle rays that lovecoming up to nibble your mask or arms. Twice a week divers have theopportunity to experience a night dive in the floodlit Lagoon. This isquite a privilege as night diving is quite eerie and only offered by mostdive operators under specific (i.e. good, calm) conditions on easy shallowdive sites in the sea. Give it a go – it’s a very, very different experienceto diving in the day. The good news for adrenalin junkies wanting to eyeball sharks is thatyou don’t even need a scuba qualification. Three times a day, at 10:30,13:00 and 16:00, the brave can sign up for the Xpanda Shark Dive ledby guides from uShaka and, from the safety of an acrylic cage, get upclose and personal with Zambezi and ragged-tooth sharks. Snorkels andmasks are provided so you need only bring your swimming gear to enjoythe unique privilege of interacting with the sleek apex predators.XXXXXX Sounds too scary? Perhaps you’d rather not be in the predator tank?Then sign up for a session in the Avis Snorkel Lagoon where you canenjoy the colourful fish life and watch the sharks swimming around thepredator tank through the underwater panels. Buoyancy vests, masksand snorkels are provided so even if you’re a poor swimmer you canrelax and enjoy this amazing window onto the underwater world. Or how about a walk on the ‘wet’ side? Again no dive qualificationsare required for the Ocean Walker experience in the Open Ocean tank– you simply don a helmet that feeds air from the surface and strollaround checking out the rays, sand sharks, dorado, tuna and otherfascinating sea creatures. uShaka Marine World really is one of Southern Africa’s most excitingmarine playgrounds. In addition to all the diving experiences there’s SeaWorld and the fascinating, well-presented underground aquarium toexplore, dolphin and seal shows, a water park, wonderful restaurants,numerous food outlets, a retail park and a host of beach and otheradventures that will entertain both kids and big kids for hours!XXXXXX

NOTE:

A

B

D

1 2

C

60


TO uMHLANGA

N

Fontao Wreck Max 27m Average 18m

BOAT ENTRY & ROUTE

LIGHTHOUSE

DIVE AREA

SHORE ENTRY



REEF


T-Barge

Fontao Wreck


Vetch’s PierLimestone

Containers

Anchor Hill

15m

- 49

ft

20m

- 66

ft

30m

- 98

ft50

m - 164

ft

INDIAN OCEAN

Glen Ashley

DURBAN

uShakaMarine World

The Bluff

South Beach

North Beach

Battery Beach

TO uMHLANGA

0 4 km

2 miles0

N2

CAPE TOWN

SOUTHAFRICA

Dol

phin

Coa

st

INDIAN OCEAN

The Bluff

Tongaat Beach

uMdloti

La Mercy

Glen Ashley

uMhlanga

KING SHAKAINTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

MountEdgecombe

Verulam

Outer Anchorage

(Number One Reef) SITE 3

T-Barge SITE 4

Fontao Wreck SITE 2

N2

Dol

phin

Coa

st

N

0 10 km

5 miles0

Snorkelling trips out to seaCalypso Dive and Adventure Centre also offer dailyadventure boat tours from uShaka Marine Worldto check out the shark nets, the old whaling stationand, weather permitting, to snorkel on the reefsand wrecks along the way. Dolphins, whales andsea birds are often sighted, and you might evencatch a glimpse of the biggest fish in the sea, thewhaleshark.xxxxxxxx

NOTE:

3 4

62-63

61

20m - 66ft

Drop-off

Amphitheatre

Cave

TO u

MH

LAN

GA

N


Max 32m Average 25m

SteelStructure

Concrete Base

TO uMHLANGA

N

T-Barge

Max 25m Average 20m

M4

M41

Warner Beach

Illovo Beach

Kenneth Stainbank NR

Illovo

KwaMakhutha

Adams Mission

uMgababa

Yellowwood Park

iSipingo Beach

uMbogintwini

uMkomaas

uMlazi

iSipingo

aManzimtoti

Kingsburgh

DURBAN

N2

N2

N20 10 km

5 miles0

N

E

F

H

1 2

G

60-6162

BOAT ENTRY & ROUTE

LIGHTHOUSE

DIVE AREA

SHORE ENTRY



REEF


M4

R603

CAPE TOWN

SOUTHAFRICA

INDIAN OCEAN

THIS AREA IN DETAIL

Cooper’s Light Wreck SITE 1

Blood Reef SITE 5

3 4 63


15m

- 49

ft

20m

- 66

ft30

m -

98ft

50m -

164f

t

Blood ReefDURBAN

TO THE BLUFF

N

Blood Reef

Max 18m Average 16m

15m

- 49

ft20

m -

66ft

30m - 9

8ft

50m - 1

64ft

Treasure Beach

Boilers

Mooring Bollards

Harpoon GunN

Cooper’s Light Wreck

Max 32m Average 25m

Blood Reef


Griqualand

15m - 4

9ft

20m - 6

6ft

30m - 9

8ft

50m - 1

64ft

100m

- 32

8ft

20m

- 65

6ft

Mlazi

INDIAN OCEAN

Warner Beach

Nyoni Rocks


Yellowwood Park

iSipingo Beach

uMbogintwini

iSipingo

aManzimtoti

0 5 km

2 miles0

DURBAN

N2

N2

M4

Warner Beach

Illovo Beach


Illovo

KwaMakhutha

Adams Mission

uMgababa

Yellowwood Park

iSipingo Beach

uMbogintwini

uMkomaas

uMlazi

iSipingo

aManzimtoti

Kingsburgh

DURBAN

N2

N2

N20 10 km

5 miles0

N

E

F

H

1 2

G

60-6162

BOAT ENTRY & ROUTE

LIGHTHOUSE

DIVE AREA

SHORE ENTRY



REEF


M4

R603

CAPE TOWN

SOUTHAFRICA

INDIAN OCEAN

THIS AREA IN DETAIL

Cooper’s Light Wreck SITE 1

Blood Reef SITE 5

3 4 63


15m

- 49

ft

20m

- 66

ft30

m -

98ft

50m -

164f

t

Blood ReefDURBAN

TO THE BLUFF

N

Blood Reef

Max 18m Average 16m

15m

- 49

ft20

m -

66ft

30m - 9

8ft

50m - 1

64ft

Treasure Beach

Boilers

Mooring Bollards

Harpoon GunN


Max 32m Average 25m

Blood Reef


Griqualand

15m - 4

9ft

20m - 6

6ft

30m - 9

8ft

50m - 1

64ft

100m

- 32

8ft

20m

- 65

6ft

Mlazi

INDIAN OCEAN

Warner Beach

Nyoni Rocks


Yellowwood Park

iSipingo Beach

uMbogintwini

iSipingo

aManzimtoti

0 5 km

2 miles0

DURBAN

N2

N2

M4

64 durban and the north coast

Top sites

Cooper’s Light Wreck site 1Advanced

Boat entry

Maximum depth – 32m

Average depth – 25m

Map reference – page 63 E3

Cooper’s Light Wreck is rather an enigma. The identity of the wreck is still unknown, as is the date she sank. She lies 4km off

Treasure Beach on the Bluff and is named after the lighthouse there. Lying at a depth of 25–32m, she is Durban’s most interesting wreck in the recreational scuba diving range.

Over the years there has been much speculation as to her true name and the reason she was sunk off Durban. The wreck is a steamship of between 1 000 and 1 500 tons and made of iron. At a length of 77m with a beam of 10.5m she is not a small vessel. An interesting feature on the wreck is that she has an implosion hole on one of her boilers, indicating that she could have been scuttled. This was common practice years ago when vessels reached their sell-by date. It is most likely that she was scuttled after one of the World Wars as ships that were commandeered by the navy were often not returned to their pre-war owners. There are as many as 20 iron and steel wrecks lying in the waters off Durban.

Cooper’s Light Wreck is rich in fish life – juvenile angelfish and butterflyfish, scorpionfish, paperfish, lionfish, eels and coral-banded shrimps are all here in abundance. And watch out for the uncommon harlequin goldie (Pseudanthias connneli) which is endemic to the coastline of KwaZulu-Natal and is easily spotted on all the steel wrecks along the coast.

Fontao Wreck site 2

Open water

Boat entry



Map reference – page 61 C3

The Fontao was a Mozambican prawn trawler sunk by the Oceanographic Research Institute on 8 August 1991 to create an artificial reef. The wreck lies 3km off Umhlanga in 15–27m of water. The trawler is 34m long, 8m wide and 13m high. She sits upright on a sandy bottom. Over the years the wheelhouse has broken off and now lies alongside the wreck on the sand.

There are a few opportunities to penetrate the wreck but they are limited

top: cooper’s light wreck – three-spot angelfishabove: number one – bluespotted ribbontail ray

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durban and the north coast 65

to small confined spaces. The Fontao is a magnet for huge schools of baitfish that swarm around the wreck. Sometimes the wreck can be obscured by giant schools of maasbanker, mackerel and shad. Pelagic fish can be spotted feeding on the baitfish and in winter it is possible to spot daga salmon. Exotic pineapple fish are found under the hull in protected crevices. Remember to take a torch to find them. Batfish, moray eels, scorpionfish and coachmen have also colonised the wreck.

Outer Anchorage or Number One Reef site 3Advanced

Boat entry



Map reference – page 61 D3

This reef was given its interesting name years ago by a fisherman who considered it as being the ‘number one’ reef to fish on. It is within the depth range of sport divers and today is enjoyed by both divers and ski-boat fishermen. The reef is part of an extensive reef system located approximately 5km offshore. Most of the diving on Number One is done south of the buoy that is used by shipping to indicate the entrance into Durban Harbour. It is a rugged reef featuring many drop-offs, potholes, caves and an amphitheatre. Because of its distance from the shore, schools of pelagic tuna and kingfish are often spotted. If you’re in luck you may also encounter some of the blacktip and copper sharks that frequent the reef. Resident animals include frogfish, angelfish, moray eels and rockcod, and there are interesting marine artefacts like anchors and anchor chains strewn over the reef.

The reef is close to the shipping lane so stay near the buoy line and be prepared for ships passing close by – the

noise from their engines and propellers is quite intimidating.

T-Barge site 4

Advanced

Boat entry



Map reference – page 61 C3

The T-Barge is a coral-encrusted artificial reef. It is a decommissioned floating crane that was sunk by the Oceanographic Research Institute on 19 December 1990. The concrete structure is 30m × 20m × 3m, comprising 48 compartments of 3m × 3m × 3m. The barge itself is

below: t-barge – harlequin goldiebottom: number one – hermit crab

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66 durban and the north coast

sandstone bedrock that has been eroded over the years to form a series of ledges and caves. Take a torch to explore the dark nooks and crannies in the caves where you will find moray eels, hermit crabs, crayfish, scorpionfish and nudibranchs. The reef above the caves is encrusted with a colourful array of red and pink thistle corals.

Other dive sites

Vetch’s Pier site 6Open water

Shore entry Maximum depth – 6m Average depth – 3m Map reference – page 60 D2An easy shore dive from the Durban Undersea Club for the scuba diver or snorkeller. At low tide the reef is visible from the surface.

Limestone site 7Open water

Shore entry Maximum depth – 8m Average depth – 6m Map reference – page 60 D2A natural underwater reef that runs in a northeasterly direction from the tip of Vetch’s

made of concrete and there is a gantry-like superstructure of steel located at the T-junction.

The T-Barge is a haven for baitfish that swarm above the structure. You will submerge through schools of mackerel, carenteen and pinkies. Understandably this reef is also a popular fishing spot. It is situated 3km off Virginia Airport. Artificial reefs attract juvenile reef fish and the T-Barge is no different. A careful search of the structure will reveal lionfish, hermit crabs, moray eels, paperfish, cleaner shrimp and batfish, while the reclusive brindle bass can also be spotted on the wreck.

Blood Reef site 5Open water

Boat or shore entry



Map reference – page 63 E3

An interesting name for a reef, and perhaps a little daunting. This scattered reef is found just over 500m behind the backline off the Bluff directly opposite the old whaling station that ceased operating in 1975. It was one of the largest land-based whaling stations in the world and during its time it harvested whales in the area between Cape Vidal to the north

and Port St Johns in the south. The reef is named after the large amount of blood and offal that discoloured the water while the whales were being processed.

This is one of Durban’s best-known dive sites. The shallow reef structure is

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top: blood reef – blackcheek morayright: blood reef – raggy scorpionfish

durban and the north coast 67

Pier and is home to numerous crayfish and moray eels.

Griqualand site 8Technical

Boat entry Maximum depth – 51m Average depth – 45m Map reference – page 63 H4The coastal steamer that went down off Warner Beach in 1970 provides a playground for techies. Kitchen cutlery can still be found in the holds.

Anchor Hill site 9Advanced

Boat Entry Maximum depth – 38m Average depth – 32m Map reference – page 60 C2An advanced dive on dramatic boulder formations. Look out for the three anchors leading onto the reef.

Containers site 10Advanced

Boat Entry Maximum depth – 21m Average depth – 18m Map reference – page 60 C2A selection of containers that have been washed off ships in heavy weather make for an interesting dive. Artefacts like chain saws and brush-cutters can be identified amongst the marine growth.

Area Specifics

Best time to go Durban enjoys summer rainfall. During these months masses of soil can be washed into the sea when the rivers flood, making the water dirty and visibility very poor. The best time to dive the Durban region is during the balmy autumn months of May–July. The best conditions for diving are after a strong westerly wind – this normally brings in clear water. The predominant northeasterly normally brings with it a ground swell and reduced visibility.

Water temperatures

Range from 16°C to as high as 27°C when the warm Mozambique current flows close to shore in summer.

Recommended gear

A 3mm wet suit will suffice in summer but winter temperatures demand at least a 5mm wet suit.

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left: fonteo – yellow-edged moraybelow: t-barge – camel shrimp

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ISBN 978-1-77026-228-7

9 781770 262287

Introducing the Atlas of Dive Sites of South Africa & Mozambique● Detailed coverage of top dive sites for each diving region● Introduction chapter highlighting: ◗ Overview of South Africa and Mozambique ◗ Basic training and equipment ◗ Dive culture and responsible diving ◗ Treatment of injured divers and recompression chamber policy ◗ Caring for the marine environment ◗ Dangerous marine organisms ◗ Emergency contact details ◗ Marine protected areas● Each chapter features: ◗ Clear and detailed maps of all the dive sites with: ◗ Positions of all sites indicated and cross referenced in the text ◗ Enlargements showing routes, key points, sites and wrecks ◗ Access points to dive sites featured ◗ Location within the region ◗ Underwater depths indicated with colour-coding ◗ Information boxes on other marine adventures or activities in the region ◗ All dives are described in detail with: ◗ First-hand account of the dive and what the experience is likely to be ◗ Concise info boxes featuring: – Diffi culty rating – Type of access (Shore or boat) – Maximum and average depths – Reference to locate the dive site on the map ◗ Area specifi cs on best time to visit, water temperatures, dive conditions

and recommended gear ◗ Beautiful dive images to give you an indication of the dive site features

and underwater views● Includes a separate Marine Species Identifi cation Guide ◗ Marine species are identifi ed by: ◗ Over 175 colour photographs to help you identify species ◗ Size, common and scientifi c names ◗ Brief description and natural history ◗ 31 location maps showing distribution of each species

Vilanculos and the Bazaruto Archipelago

The pristine reefs of the Bazaruto National Park offer superb diving, both from Vilanculos on

the mainland and from the exclusive island lodges. One of the largest marine parks in Africa

and protected since 1971, the 1400km2 park consists of fi ve islands: Bazaruto (the largest),

Benguerra, Magaruque, Santa Carolina (or Paradise Island) and tiny, uninhabited Bangue.

They’re real Robinson Crusoe-style deserted island escapes with high dunes covered in

colourful sprawling creepers, fresh water, crocodile-infested lakes, swaying palm trees and

sandy beaches littered with pansy shells and lapped by clear, intense blue water. As you cruise

around, turtles swim over to check you out and humpback and spinner dolphins frolic in the

swell. And divers and snorkellers who put their heads into the water are treated to an amazing

display of colourful corals, diverse tropical fi sh and big pelagics such as manta rays. The waters

of the archipelago are home to all fi ve marine turtle species of the western Indian Ocean,

several dolphin species (including striped and Fraser’s dolphin that are predominantly found

offshore but occasionally venture inshore to the archipelago), as well as the elusive dugong.

10

the corner | ray alley | brindle bass ridge | allan’s realm | amphitheatrecamel hump | twelve mile reef | turtle ridge | manta ray reef | rainbow runneraquarium | greek temple | ponta dundo | fi ve mile reef

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22 cape peninsula and false bay cape peninsula and false bay 23

climb over boulders from the Oudekraal parking lot south of the Twelve Apostles Hotel, or after a 14km boat ride from Hout Bay Harbour or Oceana Power Boat Club. It’s best to dive this site after a southeast wind in summer when the water will be clear but cold. Check swell conditions before setting off.

From the shore, it’s a short snorkel through kelp and a sunshot descent through flickering crowds of hottentot and kelp stipes to the brilliantly coloured reefs and rock cathedrals below. Fragile bryozoans and fan hydroids jostle for space among acid yellow sponges, blue and orange anemones, as well as crowds of the pink noble coral after which the site is named. Cowled nudibranchs sweep their pale hoods through the water in search of edible prey. Basket stars and klipfish stud the walls, while cuttlefish and octopus manage to evade the notice of all but the sharp-eyed. Caves, some containing air pockets, are treasure houses of the more fragile and elusive animals. Bring a torch.

This site can be dived by open-water divers, but the density of the reef life and its fragility require that divers have good buoyancy control so as not to damage any reef animals.

Castle Rocks/Pyramid Rock ± site 3

Open water

Shore or boat



Á Map reference – page 21 F3

This is a large dive site, just south of Miller’s Point, and what you see depends on where in the dive site you go. Pyramid Rock is at the northern end of the complex and is mainly dived for the cowsharks. These elegant animals, which can grow as big as 3.5m, circle the

alleys of the kelp forest surrounding the rock and will approach divers quite closely. They are temperate water coastal animals which eat fishes and crustaceans and are known to pack-hunt seals. They give birth to 60–104 pups per litter at a birth size of about 50cm. It’s an amazing experience to watch them gently glide through the water.

The southern end of the complex consists of jumbled granite boulders with caves, swim-throughs and gullies, all heavily encrusted with invertebrate life. Expect to see Cape urchins, huge anemones, rock crabs, feather stars and red-chested sea cucumbers, along with many species of nudibranchs. Cuttlefish float over the sand and octopus can be spotted, given away by the piles of discarded mussel shells outside their lairs.

This site is best dived in winter, when False Bay is flat, and is usually a fishy dive. Romans, hottentot, strepies, juvenile red steenbras and janbruin can all be seen, as well as pyjama catsharks and puffadder shysharks. Klipfish, triplefins and blennies lurk on the reefs. You might see spotted gully sharks in the overhangs, and whales in winter.

Partridge Point ± site 4

Open water

Boat launch



Á Map reference – page 21 G3

This is a large dive site to the north of Smitswinkel Bay, best dived in winter after a northwest wind. The northern end of

Top sites

Diving in Cape Town is very different from the more usual tropical dive destinations, but its pleasures are many and varied. For more detailed information about Cape Peninsula and False Bay dive sites, go to: http://wikitravel.org/en/Diving_the_Cape_Peninsula_and_False_Bay

Star Walls ± site 1

Advanced

Boat launch



Á Map reference – page 18 C1

Star Walls is a stunning dive to the south of Maori Bay, about a ten-minute ride from Hout Bay Harbour. It is relatively exposed, so is only diveable on low-swell days, usually in summer. After a good southeast blow, when the upwelled water is clean, visibility can be well over 20m.

The wall starts at 8m and drops almost vertically down to 32m. It is the highest and longest known wall, extending for about 100m east-west, with another 50m on

the southeast face. The top of the wall is covered with kelp and redbait pods, the walls themselves are thickly encrusted with invertebrate life, and overhangs and vertical cracks provide microhabitats for more fragile creatures. The bottom of the wall ends in sand and scattered boulders.

The invertebrate life is varied and often well camouflaged, like the shaggy sponge crabs, sumo crabs and cuttlefish. Basket stars, grey fan hydroids, pink noble

corals, dreadlocks hydroids, multihued anemones and sponges make the site vivid with colour. It’s nudibranch wallpaper for the most part: Mandela’s nudibranchs, candy nudibranchs, gas flames, silvertips and black nudibranchs can all be seen in profusion here, as can the rare dark-toothed cowrie. Klipfish peer out from crevices, along with redfingers and janbruins, and safety stops are usually enlivened by visiting seals.

The trick with diving this site is not to overstay bottom time: there is so much to see it’s easy to forget how deep you are.

Coral Gardens ± site 2

Open water

Shore or boat



Á Map reference – page 18 B2

Coral Gardens is distinguished by superb topography and extraordinary biodiversity. It is an extensive dive site of jumbled granite boulders, caves and overhangs on the Atlantic side of the Cape Peninsula. It can be dived from the shore after a short

above: star wallsright: coral gardens

above: broad-nosed sevengill cowshark (notorynchus cepedianus) – pyramid rock

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174 marine species identifi cation guide marine species identifi cation guide 175

Algoa cone (Conus algoensis) å

size: Up to 5cm. description: A yellow cone-shaped snail. Shell with a rounded shoulder, ‘steps’ between whorls and a narrow opening. Shell colour ranges from yellow to brown, variably marked in streaks and blotches. natural history: Found down to 50m. Predatory: mantle modifi ed to form a harpoon which injects a neurotoxin. similar species: The textile cone (Conus textile) has a pale shell patterned with orange patches, outlined in brown. The geography cone (Conus geographus) has ridges running down the shell, which is pale and covered with reddish-brown patterning. Both are poisonous to humans and can be fatal.

NudibranchsNudibranchs are the most numerous of the sea slugs. They are shell-less molluscs which are often vividly patterned and coloured to warn off predators. Many are toxic, most from acquiring toxins from prey species. Their sensory tentacles are called rhinophores. They are hermaphrodites which leave their eggs ribbons on reefs to hatch into larvae.

variable neon slug (Nembrotha kubaryana) ç

size: Up to 12cm. description: A large, black-bodied nudibranch, variably patterned. Usually striped or dotted in green with vivid orange rhinophores and mouth border; foot also orange outlined. Some with orange spots. natural history: Feeds on colonial sea squirts, absorbing their defensive chemicals and re-using them.

Spanish dancer (Hexabranchus sanguineus) é

size: May reach 40cm. description: A very large nudibranch which may be orange, red or brown, with red mottling. Large gill rosette surrounds anus. Rhinophores and gills orange. natural history: Found down to 40m. Feeds on sponges, worms, sea squirts and marine snails. Swims by undulating body margin. Often seen with a commensal shrimp, Periclimenes imperator.

four-coloured chromodorid (Chromodoris africana) è

size: Up to 7.5cm. description: A black, smooth-bodied nudibranch, with two pale blue lines running down the back, which has a white rim and an orange margin. Gills and rhinophores yellow to orange. natural history: Feeds on sponges.

UrchinsUrchins are the most spiny of all the echinoderms, are armoured in a tough shell or test, and are usually spherical. The mouth is usually on the underside of the animal, with the anus uppermost. Tubefeet in fi ve rows on the underside are used for locomotion, while tiny pincers on stalks defend the animals from predators or settling organisms.

pot-hole urchin (Stomopneustes variolaris) å

size: 10cm. description: A spherical urchin with sturdy tapering spines. Body dark; spines pale, mounted on ball and socket joints. natural history: Found on shallow tropical reefs. Feeds on seaweeds and algae. Stout spines can erode corals.

Cape urchin (Parechinus angulosus) ç

size: 6cm. description: Spherical body covered with dense spines which can be purple, green or red. natural history: Common on rocky shores and reefs down to 98m. Grazes on kelp and other algae. Preyed on by West Coast rock lobsters. May be seen using shells as a sunshade.

MolluscsThe molluscs include chitons (armadillo snails), snails and slugs, cephalopods such as octopus and squid, and bivalves like mussels and clams. They are soft-bodied. Some, like bivalves, snails and chitons, have hard protective shells. The slugs are often beautifully and vividly coloured to advertise their protective toxicity. Cephalopods usually protect themselves through camoufl age, being able to change both their skin colour and texture.

Marine snailsThese animals all have a hard, protective spiral shell, produced by the mantle, and a distinct head with tentacles and a pair of eyes. They have a large foot for locomotion and their mouths have a rasping tongue for feeding. The sexes are usually separate and fertilisation is usually external. Eggs are either laid on a surface or left to fl oat in the plankton.

tiger cowrie (Cypraea tigris) é

size: 10cm. description: A large, beautiful cowrie, plump pale shell variably marked with dark to tawny splotches and blobs. The mantle has many protrusions, probably to aid with camoufl age. natural history: Found from 5–40m, nocturnal. Feeds on soft corals, anemones, sponges, starfi sh and urchins. Juveniles eat algae and detritus. Females sit on eggs until the larvae hatch.

egg cowrie (Ovula ovum) è

size: Up to 8cm. description: A plump, white-shelled snail with a velvety black mantle, spotted with white or yellow; mantle usually completely covers the shell. natural history: Found from 12–20m. Feeds on soft corals and sponges. Eggs laid in cases on reefs; the female may guard them before hatching.

Beautifully demonstrating the reason for its name, a spanish dancer swims é

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A map cowrie (Leporicypraea mappa), its protective mantle half covering its shell ê

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56 south coast – aliwal shoal, landers and protea banks south coast – aliwal shoal, landers and protea banks 57

caves make for interesting exploration, and photogenic specimens include cute little toby puffers and boxfish.

Protea Banks Southern Pinnacles ± site 13Advanced

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 40m‹€ Average depth – 30mÁ Map reference – page 51 F4It was the Zambezi sharks (bull sharks) that initially put Protea Banks on the world dive site map, and the high chance of sighting these fearsome-looking predators on the reef between October and May attracts divers from all over the world. Blacktip sharks are seen year-round while scalloped and great hammerhead sharks make an appearance at the end of the season, making this a top site for shark lovers.

season it’s still an impressive dive on which you’ll probably see potato bass and, if you’re lucky, pineapple fish – a small, yellow, spiny critter with a dazzling smile and a skin pattern that resembles that of a pineapple. The site is normally dived on a north-south current, starting at the south part of North Sands where you’ll often see dolphins.

Inside Edge ± site 11Open water

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 22m‹€ Average depth – 15mÁ Map reference – page 49 D4On the inner, sheltered side of the Shoal, this site consists of a stepped series of ledges and overhangs in which you’ll find scorpionfish, stonefish, lionfish, octopus, boxfish and whitemouth (guinea fowl) moray eels as well as a variety of nudibranchs. Check the sandy patches for rays – and in summer you might even see tiger sharks in mid-water off the southern section of the reef.

Umzimai Wall ± site 12Advanced

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 39m‹€ Average depth – 23mÁ Map reference – page 49 D4A 20m high wall adorned with corals and alive with tropical fish is the highlight of this little-dived site in the southern section of Landers Reef. Swim-throughs, big gullies, ledges and

as 200 have been seen on one dive – so there are strict codes of conduct. The dive starts at a large, open-topped cave which is usually full of raggies. Then you swim past a tunnel – or through it if it is shark-free – past coral gardens to a second open-topped cave with lots of chambers where the raggies like to rest and where, during late spring and early summer, you’ll often see large shoals of hammerhead sharks overhead. Remember also that sharks are not the sole attraction. I was so obsessed with the likelihood of shark interaction on my first dive there that it was only when I’d snapped 20 images of the first shark I spotted that I realised it had black patches on its side and was in fact a massive potato bass! Enjoy the sharks, but try also to look around and appreciate the reef.

Other dive sites

The Nebo ± site 9Advanced

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 26m‹€ Average depth – 18m Á Map reference – page 49 C4Wrecked in 1884, the Nebo lies off the landward (northwestern) edge of the Shoal. The wreck, which lies in two parts, is home to turtles and an abundance of pelagic and reef fish, including the rare harlequin goldie, but visibility is not usually as good as on the Produce.

Chunnel ± site 10Open water

Boat launchfi Maximum depth – 17m‹€ Average depth – 12mÁ Map reference – page 49 D4An awesome dive with loads of overhangs, Chunnel, directly inshore from Raggies Cave, is an easy, shallow dive with a channel through which sharks cruise in season. Upwelling of plankton in the area means that there’s also a good chance of sighting manta rays, and reef fish are there in numbers. Outside shark

Protea Banks Northern Pinnacles ± site 8

Advanced

Boat launch



Á Map reference – page 50 H2

Best dived in the winter months (June to November) when the raggies congregate on the reef to mate, this rates as one of the most exciting shark dives in the world. A deep reef some 7.5km out in the open ocean, this is a site for experienced, disciplined divers with a taste for adventure. The briefing gets the heart beating. It’s not just the remoteness, current and other dangers of diving this site; you are looking for sharks – as many

Area Specifics

Best time to go This is a year-round destination but dive conditions are best during the dry season from May to September (the winter months).

Water temperatures

Range from 16°C in winter to around 25°C in summer.

Dive conditions The South Coast generally enjoys good visibility – ranging from 5m to 40m. Launching, in rigid inflatable boats, is from Umkomaas (for Aliwal Shoal – either from the river mouth or from the beach depending on tide and conditions), from Rocky Bay (Landers Reef) or from Shelley Beach (Protea Banks). Accessing these sites sometimes involves an exciting ride through the surf.

Recommended gear

A 5mm wet suit is more than adequate in summer – add a hood/chicken vest, booties and gloves or go for a semi-dry or dry suit in the chillier winter months.

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above: nebo wreck

Newlands Reservoir

Lagoon(Tidal)

Lagoon (Tidal)

Disa

SilvermineDam

Zeek

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Graaff's Pool

Camps Bay

Bakoven Bay

Koeël Bay

Llandudno Bay

Sandy Bay

Chapman's Bay False Bay

Table Bay

Hout Bay

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Lui Bay

Hout BayHarbour

Glen Beach

Green Point

SaundersRocks

SunsetRocks

Oude Schip

DuikerPoint

DuikerIsland

Chapman's Point

Ratelklip

Noordhoek Beach

Klein Slangkop Point

Danger Beach

Neptune's Corner

West BeachEast Beach

Sunrise Beach

CliftonBeach

AVONWOOD

VOORTREKKER

DE LA REY

SIMON VAN DER STEL

HOUT BAY

VICTORIA

SPAANSC

HEM

ATRI

VER LADIES M

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MILITARY

ROYAL

BOYE

S

MAIN

HIGHLEVEL

MAIN

BEAC

H

BEACH

ALBERT

VICTORIA

MARINE

DE WAAL

VICTORIA

RHODES

VICTORIA

MAIN

ADDERLE

Y

SPINE

TOKAI

BOYES

TAFELBERG

STEENBERG

CHAPMAN'S PEAK

CHAPMAN'S PEAK

NOORDHOEK

CAM

PS B

AY D

RIVE

KLOOF

THIS AREA IN DETAIL

Mouille Point

Three Anchor Bay

Sea Point

Bantry Bay

Llandudno

HOUT BAYHelgarda

Estate

Noordhoek

San Michel

SunValley Clovelly St JamesKalk

Bay

Muizenberg

Marinada Gama

Lakeside

Sillery

Klaassensbosch

Bishopscourt

Zonnebloem

Foreshore

Wingfield GOODWOOD

TownsendEstate

Tygerdal

PAROW

Church HillEstate

Gardens

Tamboerskloof

Vredehoek

Camps Bay

Fresnaye

SaltRiver

CAPE TOWN

Bakoven

Clifton

Green Point

Tokai

CONSTANTIA

Westlake

MILNERTON

Two Oceans Aquarium

Twelve Apostles Hotel

CAPETOWNINT.

AIRPORT

KirstenboschNational

Botanical Garden


Zandvlei Bird Sanctuary


NewlandsForest



Cecilia State Forest

Star WallsSITE 1

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CoralGardensSITE 2

M16

R102

M3

M63

M3

M63

M6

M6

M3

M41

M42

R310

M32

A

B

D

1 2 3 4

C

20-21

0 4 km

2 miles0

N

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Shark and kelp dives in the Two Oceans AquariumxxxxxxxxxxxxIf you really want to get up close and personal with sharks, turtles andbig gamefish there’s nothing to beat a dive in the I&J Predator Exhibitin the Two Oceans Aquarium. After a short briefing you drop into thetwo-million-litre glass-fronted tank as the big-eyed children and othervisitors to the aquarium gawp at your bravery. This has to be the easiestdive in the Cape – where else can you dive with sharks with just aDiscover Scuba qualification? There’s no surge, the visibility is great,the water is (relatively) warm and there’s a wonderful selection ofpredatory fish all around you. Cheeky turtles come up to check youout, and after the initial adrenalin rush you soon find yourself comfortablewith and intrigued by the ragged-tooth sharks. Advanced divers also have the option of feeding the fish and checkingout the marine life in the surging kelp forest tank. The 800-litre tankis home to galjoen (the national fish) as well as gully sharks, whitestumpnose, black and white musselcracker, also rock lobsters andperlemoen – and if you’re really lucky you might even spot a rockhopperor African penguin which has been released into the kelp forest for aswim. Although it doesn’t have quite the same kudos as diving in thepredator tank, it’s a fascinating insight into the marine life of the CapeWest Coast.

NOTE:

CAPE TOWN

SOUTH AFRICA

18 19


�Percy’s Hole

15m - 49ft

20m - 66ft

100m - 328ft

50m - 164ft

30m - 98ft

Buffels

Rooiels

Pringle Bay

False Bay

The Point

Steenbras Rock

Roman Rock

Pringle Bay

Rooiels

TO GORDON’S BAY

TO KLEINMOND

0 2 km

1 mile0

PringleBay

Hout Bay

Gordon'sBay

Stellenbosch

Somerset West

Simon'sTown

CAPETOWN

BellvilleTable Bay

False Bay

Cape Point

R44

R44

AREA OF THIS INSET

15m

- 49

ft

20m

- 66

ft

30m

- 98

ft

Overhang

Low Granite Outcropsand Sand Patches

Swim-through

Narrow GapPinnacle

N

TO H

OUT

BAY

StarWalls


15m

- 49

ft

20m -

66ft

30m

- 98

ft

Pinnacle

AirCave

Overhangs

N

TO H

OUT

BAY


CoralGardens

Oudekraal

BOAT ENTRY & ROUTE

LIGHTHOUSE

DIVE AREA

SHORE ENTRY

OTHER SITE�Batsata Maze


REEF

TOP SITE�Smits WrecksKEY

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Coral Gardens

Star Walls

Tafelberg Reef

15m - 49ft

20m - 66ft

30m - 98ft

50m - 164ft

Llandudno Bay

Sandy Bay

HoutBay

Lui Bay

ATLANTIC OCEANSunsetRocks

Oude Schip

Duiker Point

DuikerIsland

VICTORIA

Llandudno

Hout Bay

TO CLIFTO

NTO

NO

ORD

HO

EK

0 2 km

1 mile0

M6


ATLAS OF

DIVE SITES

157 detailed dive site descriptions

50 pages of detailed topside & underwater maps

Over 150 marine species identifi ed | Over 300 colour photographs

ATLAS O

F DIV

E SITES OF SO

UTH

AFR

ICA & M

OZA

MB

IQU

E

by Fiona McIntoshwith Marine Species Identifi cation Guide by Georgina Jones

Endorsed by Mozambique Tourism (INATUR)The National Tourism Institute (INATUR) is a government organization and it is responsible for the promotion of the development of tourism through marketing, technical and fi nancial assistance to local operators, ensures the standard of quality of tourism accommodation, training and provision of assistance on undertakings of tourism interest. Main object is to make Mozambique a world class destination.

Cover photograph by Geoff Spiby

Documents

Dive Sites of South Africa & Mozambique. ISBN 9781770262287