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Routing Techniques for DOLLS HOUSE MOULDINGS A guide to producing dolls house and miniature mouldings. 3

Dolls house mouldings

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Page 1: Dolls house mouldings

Routing Techniques for

DOLLS HOUSE MOULDINGS

A guide to producing dolls house and miniature mouldings.

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CONTENTS

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INTRODUCTION______________3About the 12 piece set _____________________4Additional requirements ____________________5

THE ROUTER TABLE ___________6Router table construction ___________________7Instructions ______________________________7Cutting list_______________________________9Table size, central aperture & table thickness____10Fitting the router, back fence _______________11Dust extraction & pressure guards___________12Push stick, fine height adjuster _____________13No-volt release switch ____________________13

ROUTING TECHNIQUES_______14Choice of timbers ________________________14Preparing the timber______________________14Moulding methods _______________________14

ROUTING PROCEDURE

Skirting & architrave ______________________16Handrails, furniture & cornice_______________17Surrounds, frames, grooving & rebating ______18Finishing, guide bush and templates _________19Walls, windows and roofs__________________20

CUTTER SELECTION _______21Straight Cutters _________________________21Victorian Bull Nose ______________________22Torus _________________________________23Multi-Mould __________________________24-25Modern Torus __________________________26Double Bead ___________________________27Ogee Classic ___________________________28Bead Ogee_____________________________29Triple Classic Ovolo______________________30Triple Bead ____________________________31

A-Z OF SAFETY _____________32

CUTTER & COLLET CARE_____34

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One of the most pleasurable aspects tomaking your own dolls house is the fitting ofthe mouldings in each room. They must bemachined to the correct proportions and fromthe right period to be accurate. Although1/12th scale pre-machined mouldings can bepurchased from Dolls House shops andhobby shops, there are many advantages inactually producing them yourself.

Often it is difficult when purchasingmouldings to obtain uniformity as they candiffer from batch to batch. The shapes of themoulds can be different and the overalldimensions of the purchased mouldings canbe out of proportion or even oversize.The price of these pre-machined mouldingscan also prove to be quite expensive,especially when buying skirting and cornicemouldings as long lengths are usuallyrequired.

All the proportions of 1/12th scale mouldingsmust be an accurate scaled down version ofthose found in full size building joinery. The ideal means of obtaining the correct sizemoulding is, therefore to make your own.There is of course also a sense ofachievement from machining the mouldsyourself from start to finish and added tothis, your dolls house project can becompleted to your own unique specification.

INTRODUCTION11

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The dolls house cutters in the set are alltungsten carbide tipped. Tungsten carbide isa hard, wear-resistant metal that gives longcutting edge life and will give a clean cut onthe timbers used in scale mouldingmanufacture.

Nine of the cutters in the set are specificallydesigned to carry out the making ofmouldings. The three straight cutters can beused for rebating, grooving and slotting

these mouldings. They can also be used forthe construction of other parts of the dollshouse such as the wall and roofingcomponents.

The moulding cutters allow the dolls housemaker and miniaturist to run whatever lengthof moulding is required. If a small length ofmould is kept on file, the router can be setagainst the sample, to enable further lengthsto be machined to replicate the original.These later lengths of mould will be thesame as the earlier lengths, so ensuringuniformity.

Using standard hand routers one canmachine virtually all types of scale moulds,including stair handrails, skirting, cornice,coves, architraves, capping, and stair treadnosings. They can be used for differentstyles, including Victorian and Georgianperiods. By using certain parts of theshapes in conjunction with others, uniquemoulds can be achieved. Numerousvariations of moulding, even more than those

shown in this booklet, can be produced.The timber used for the mouldings is inimperial sizes. The chart below can be usedto convert them to metric equivalents.

ABOUT THE 12 PIECE SET

Imperial Metric

1/16” 1.6mm5/64” 2.0mm3/32” 2.4mm7/64” 2.8mm1/8” 3.2mm9/64” 3.6mm5/32” 4.0mm

11/64” 4.4mm3/16” 4.8mm

13/64” 5.2mm7/32” 5.5mm

15/64” 6.0mm1/4” 6.35mm5/16” 8.0mm3/8” 9.5mm7/16” 11.0mm1/2” 12.7mm9/16” 14.3mm5/8” 15.9mm

11/16” 17.5mm3/4” 19.1mm

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What else do you

need?The routerThe dolls house cutters have either 1/4”(6.35mm) diameter shanks or 8mm shankdiameters and can be fitted to light dutyrouters, such as the Bosch POF500A andBlack & Decker KW800A. A variable speedfacility on the router is not necessary forproducing dolls house mouldings. The smalldiameters of the cutters allow spindle speedsup to 27,000 RPM to be used.

More professional routers such as the TrendT5 can also be used. These have thebenefit of more power and the availability ofa fine height adjuster. The most important factor is that of power.Your router must have a power rating of atleast 500 watts to achieve the best results.Small handheld types of grinders or drillingunits such as the Dremel® or Minicraft®arenot suitable for use with this set.

The tableBecause of the extreme accuracy that mustbe achieved and the small nature of thetimber being machined, the router must beused fitted inverted into a router table. Thedolls house router cutters are unguided (i.e.they are not fitted with a guide bearing) andtherefore the material must be guided toengage the cutter by a straight line guide orback fence. Other additional guidingmechanisms which will be described later,may also be used to machine the timberaccurately and safely.

ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS

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To actually cut the moulds the routermust be fitted inverted in a router table.Proprietary tables are readily available,

but a home-made table can be constructed tosuit your own requirements.

CRAFTSMAN

ROUTER TABLE

The Trend Craftsman Router Tableis a general purpose router table which canbe fitted with the necessary home-madeadaptations for machining dolls housemouldings.It should be fitted with a false table top sothat the aperture through which the cutterprojects, will be as small as possible. By fitting a false top, guards and otherdevices can be easily screwed to it. Thefalse top can be constructed from 6 or 9mm

MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) orplywood and should be slightly larger thanthe alloy table itself.The false top should be drilled out to matchthe fixing holes in the Craftsman tablesurface. The false top can be screwed to orheld by battens onto the alloy table top of thetable. The back fence can also be used if a falsecheek is fitted to it. This cheek will need asmall aperture cut into it. The false cheekcan again be constructed from MDF and canbe screwed or clamped to the existing backfence.

A Home-made router table can bemade very simply from MDF or other flatstable material.

Pressure down

Timber feed directionBack fence

Pressuresideways

Side fenceTimber

Side fence

Timber feed direction

Cutter rotation

Side Pressure

Side view

End view

Plan view

THE ROUTERTABLE22

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A home-made dolls house router table issimple to make, even with only limitedwoodworking skills. It is made of easilyavailable MDF or from plywood and usesfittings from the Trend range of routing jigaccessories. (Please see the current TrendRouting Catalogue).

The low fence fitted to the table is again cutfrom MDF and slotted to allow adjustment ofthe cutting width. It is fitted with a dustextraction hood (Trend Ref No. RR72). Thisalso acts as a back guard to preventaccidental contact with the cutter. Westrongly recommended that this or a similarguard is fitted.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Cut the two leg pieces to size from15mm thick MDF and glue each pairtogether with PVA adhesive. Whendry, plane both to the same size andsquare and chamfer the vertical edges.

2. Cut the base from 15mm MDF andplane the edges square.

3. Cut the Table top from 12mm MDF andsquare the edges.

4. Mark the centre point of the top andneatly drill a 25mm diameter hole.

5. Using a paper template (or if possibleuse the removable facing from thebase of the router), mark the position ofany suitable fixing holes in the routerbaseplate, centred around the 25mmhole.

ROUTER TABLE CONSTRUCTION

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6. Drill and counterbore holes to takesuitable fixing bolts.

7. Drill and counter sink the fixing holesto take the No.10 x 1 1/4” chipboardscrews.

8. Cut the under rail from 15mm MDF.

9. Assemble the table by screwing andgluing each joint and checking thatall is square before leaving to dry.

10. Cut the table fence from 12mm MDFand trim the edges square.

11. Cut the two slots using a 6.35mm(1/4”) diameter straight cutter andsetting the router’s side-fence to runagainst each end of the MDF in turn. A 6.35mm (1/4”) diameter straight cutter can be obtained from the Trend Routing Catalogue or is available in the Trend Starter Set Ref. SET/SS3.

12. Position the fence on the table andmark the centre of the lobe knobholes.

13. Drill the appropriate diameter holesthrough the top and insert thepronged tee-nuts.

14. Mark and cut the semi-circular cutterrecess along the fence edge tomatch with the hole through the top.

15. Screw the guard/dust extraction portto the top face of the fence.

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Materials Cutting List (all in mm)

Description Size Qty

Base board .........................300 x 475 x 15 1

Legs ....................................220 X 275 x 15 2

Top......................................300 x 500 x 12 1

Fence..................................100 x 500 x 12 1

Under rail ............................38 x 335 x 15 1

Guard/dust spout ................(Trend Ref. RR72) 1

Pronged Tee-nuts ...............M6 2

Lobe Knobs.........................M6 2

Washers..............................6mm 2

Chipboard screws ...............No.10 x 1 1/4” 12

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Special Notes

Table sizeThe table surface area can be made to anysuitable size, but should be large enough toallow ease of operation.

Central apertureThe aperture through which the cutter willprotrude should be as small as possible.The hole should only be about 3mm largerthan the tool diameter. In the case of thehome-made table, the hole is made to suitthe largest dolls house cutter in the set andshould therefore be about 25mm in diameter.A false table fitted to the top of the machinetable with a smaller diameter hole canalways be fitted when using the smallerdiameter cutters.

Table ThicknessThe recommended thickness of themachine table is 12mm. This thin tabletop allows maximum projectionof the tool above the table. The 12mmtable top can be reinforced with astretcher underneath to preventsag. As only light routers areneeded for dolls house work theirweight is not too great to allow a thintop to be used. If a heavier router is tobe used, then the table will need to bethicker, i.e. 18mm MDF or other suitablematerial. The table will then need to havea thinner plate recessed into it fromwhich the machine can be secured.

This thinner plate can be made from metal. Metal table insert plates are available fromTrend, Ref. CRT/PLATEA-X, they aresupplied with six insert rings to change thehole diameter. The plates are available withdifferent pre-drilled countersunk holes for themost popular makes of router.Please see the latest copy of the TrendRouting Catalogue.

Gap min. 1.5mm

Table

Aperture

Gap min. 1.5mm

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Fitting the router Two counter-bored holes are used for thispurpose. These holes are oversize, so thatthe pan head machine screws that threadinto the base of the router, can be moved inthe counter-bored holes to allow exactcentring. For instance, the Trend T5 has twoM6 threaded holed in its base (which areused to secure to jigs etc.) and therefore thecounter-bored hole should be 12.7mm (1/2”)in diameter and the through hole should be6.35mm (1/4”) to 7mm in diameter.

Back fenceThe back fence must be planed square andtrue. The fence has two slots routed into it,enabling it to be secured to the table top.The table top has two pronged tee nuts fittedto its underside. These pronged tee nutshave an internal thread size of M6, which isthe same as the threads on most knobs onrouters for fixing of the side fence and guiderails. These now redundant knobs can beused to secure the back fence to the table.The slots on the back fence have to berebated to allow the knobs to tighten properlyin the tee-nuts.

Back fence apertureThis allows the cutter to project through theback fence. This aperture must not be toowide, (here suggested of equal diameter tothe hole in the table). This is to allow allparts of the tooling to be used, enablingdifferent moulds to be machined.

Counter-bored holesallow exact alignment

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With the machined component having amaximum height of 5/8” it is thereforenecessary to have a back fence of 12mmMDF. The fence could be fitted on the backedge with a higher batten for thicker work,such as higher skirtings etc. This highbatten will also need an aperture machinedin it to accept the cutter. This would makethe fence reversible. Depending on whichsize of component is being machined, thehigher fence can be used for thick stock andthe thin fence for narrow stock.

Dust ExtractionThe back fence can be fitted with a dustspout so that a dust extractor can be fitted.This shroud can be taken from a spareproprietary back fence or purchasedseparately. The shroud not only allowsextraction of the wood waste but alsoprotects the back of the cutter. Two holes inthe face of the shroud also allow a user-made chip deflector to be fitted. It is alwaysadvisable that a dust extractor is used whenrouting to remove the wood chips and dustat source. A hose can be attached at oneend to the dust extractor and the other endcan be fitted into a dust spout fitted to theback-fence of the table.

Pressure GuardsThe back fence and machine table give thecomponent being machined a goodsupporting area, but top and side pressuresare also necessary to stop the material liftingor being pushed away from the cutter.These pressure guards will also make itsafer to rout the material, as the operator’shands are kept well away from the rotatingtool.Various pressure fences can be used, theseinclude spring loaded blocks, fingerpressures (shown above) and concertinatype pressure guards. When possible it isadvisable to use thin material for thepressure guards for dolls house mouldingssuch as 12mm MDF. A rebate may need tobe cut on the edge that would abut thecomponent, to allow access with a pushstick.

Feed

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Push Stick & Push Block A push stick and push block are alsoadvisable to help guide the material beingmoulded. The push stick should be at least350mm long and can have a ‘bird’s-mouth’shape cut-out on one end. This end shouldalso be cut with a taper to make the ‘bird’smouth’ narrower to allow greater accessbetween the pressure guards. The pushstick is used on very small components topush the component past the cutter andtherefore to keep the operators hands wellaway from the cutter.A push block is a device which also can beused to hold small components to ensurestability and safety when routing.A cross cutting jig is used to rout across thegrain. The jig has a batten on it, that is

square to one edge, and this acts as asupport when cutting across the ends ofnarrow components.

No-Volt Release SwitchThe router table should be fitted with a No-Volt Release Switch (NVRS) this can besecured to the leg or workboard to provideeasy access to the on/off buttons. Shouldthe power supply to the router be turned offat source, the router will not re-start until thegreen button is pressed. This NVRS isavailable as an accessory, Trend Ref.NVR/230V for 230V.

Fine Height AdjusterThe routers used should ideally have a fineheight adjuster fitted (for Trend T5, Trend

ref. FHA/001) which would fit in place of thedepth stop flag on the router. This fineadjuster allows the router cutter to be set atthe correct height for the mould. By turningthe fine height adjuster one way or the otherthe cutter will be raised or lowered. A fineheight adjuster is essential for any router thatis used inverted in a table.

ed

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Choice of TimbersThe choice of timbers should be ideally ahardwood which is straight, close grainedand does not tear when machined. Suitabletimbers include Lime, Brazilian Mahogany,Obeche, Jellutong and Ramin. Beech canalso be used but when machined to smallsizes the surface can give a pitted effect.

Preparing the timberThe easiest way to mould the timber is tofirst plane it with square sides by hand ormachine. The timber should be machined inthickness to suit the particular type ofmoulding required, i.e. 5/8” or 3/4” for theheight of skirting, 3/16” for architrave heightand so on. The timber should be kept aswide as possible to give good support whenmachining.

Moulding the timberThe mould can then be routed on one edgeonly, usually the full mould is created in onepass, as it is not normally necessary to takemany shallow passes due to the very smallnature of the cut. If the moulded edge hasfeathered slightly (this is dependent on thetimber used) the mould can be passedthrough the cutter again. The correctsequence is needed to ensure a good mouldis obtained. There are four differentmethods for machining mouldings. These are as follows:

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ROUTINGTECHNIQUES33

Method 1The moulding is first machined onto the edgeof a wide piece of timber. The mouldededge is then parted from the timber on asmall diameter saw bench. The sawn edge on the moulding should bequite clean providing a fine tooth partingblade is used. The edge can then be planedtrue and the operation repeated until thetimber is too narrow to hold properly. Thismethod ensures that the timber is supportedproperly on all cuts and that it is less lightlyto twist whilst routing.

Side pressure

Top pressure

Split after mould

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Method 2The timber is first parted to the correctthickness on a saw bench. Each strip isthen moulded.The timber must be planed to the correctheight for the mould required before parting.The thin stock must then be cleaned up.Several lengths of stock can be parted inone session. Due to the very thin nature ofthe material the side pressure fence must beset very accurately when moulding so as to

prevent material tilt. Flexing and fracturingof the strip could also occur, so ensure aslow constant feed rate is maintained.

Method 3As method 2, but square or rectangularprepared sectioned timber is purchasedalready to size. These are then moulded.

Method 4An alternative method to 2 and 3 is to fix thethin sections of timber to a larger piece ofmaterial, such as a straight section of MDF.This can be achieved using double-sidedtape, which will ensure the moulded sectioncan be removed afterwards. This method isespecially useful for very awkward strips,which would otherwise twist or vibrate whenbeing routed.

DH

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DH

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Part before mould

Side pressure

Straight section of MDF

ssure

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Routing procedure

1. The height of the cutter is set so thatthe relevant parts of the tool that createthe mould required are correct.

2. Set the back-fence to ensure thecorrect depth of mould into the timberwill result.

3. Adjust the top pressure guard until ittouches the top of the blank material tobe cut.

4. Clamp in position. Repeat for the sidepressure guard.

5. Switch the router on and test the mouldon a waste piece of timber.

6. When routing use the push stick to helpmove the blank material towards thecutter. Keep the feed rate constant.

7. Mould the timber along its wholelength. When the moulding is completeswitch off the router.

Square sectioned mouldsSome mouldings such as handrails must becut with the timber having been machined toits finished size prior to it’s moulding i.e. 1/4”square for a handrail. A moulding of thissize is more difficult to machine due to its

very small nature, which can tend to twist,and vibrate. By using side pressure guardsand a saddle (a material support made froman offcut) on the outfeed side of the machinetable, these difficulties can be overcome.

Setting up for skirting boardsSkirting boards are the easiest moulds torout. The simplest method is to cut themould on a wider piece of timber and thenpart it afterwards. The timber is prepared tothe correct thickness such as 3/4” high fortall skirting or 5/8” for smaller skirting. Pre-parting the timber and cutting the mould onthe thin strip can also be done in the sameway but extra time and care will be neededto ensure that the thin strip does not flex ortilt whilst the mould is cut.

ArchitraveThe simplest method is to cut the mould on awider piece of timber and then part itafterwards. The timber is prepared to thecorrect thickness for architrave such as 1/4”.

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HandrailsFor handrails the timber is prepared to thecorrect dimension such as 5/16” x 1/4”.Machine the first edge and then turn thematerial, so that the mould can be repeatedon the opposite side. Once the edge moulds are complete thegroove on the underside of the handrail toaccept the stair spindles (or balusters) canbe routed. Fit the 1/8” diameter two flute cutter Ref.DH/03 into the table. Set the height of thetool to the depth of cut required. Reset theback fence so that the groove is central tothe hand rail. Set the top and side pressuresas normal, rout the groove in two passes, toremove any wood chips caught in the grooveand to give a cleaner cut.

Furniture mouldsFor panels, table tops and shelves ofcabinets etc, the timber is prepared to thecorrect thickness and dimension. Set thecutter height and back fence to the correctposition. The panels are routed across theend grain first, then the mould is routedalong the grain. If a deeper mould isrequired, reposition the cutter height orfence. Alternatively a different part of thecutter or a different cutter can be used tobuild up the mould. When cutting across thegrain due to the very small nature of thecomponents, it may be necessary to hold thecomponent in a jig to ensure it remains at90° to the cutter. This jig can be made ofMDF and have a batten secured at 90° to itsedge adjacent to the back fence, to act as aguide to keep the component in the correctposition.

Cornice mouldsThe timber is prepared to the correctdimensions such as 3/8” thick. Theoperation is similar to that for cutting skirtingboards. A mould should be cut on a widepiece first and then parted afterwards. Dueto the general size of cornice moulds it maybe necessary to take two passes by varyingthe back-fence positions to achieve themould. For softer timbers, the mould can bemachined in one pass. If it is necessary tocut the cornice on a square piece of timberthe same method as cutting a handrail canbe used. However as a large portion of thematerial is removed, a support or saddlemay be required on the outfeed side of thetable to prevent the material from tilting.

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Side pressure

Top pressureTop pressure

Side pressure

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Door and fireplace surroundsThe simplest method for door and fireplacesurrounds is to cut the mould on a widerpiece of timber and then part it afterwards.The timber is prepared to the correctthickness suitable for the surround.Some door surrounds have a series ofparallel grooves running along the full length.These can be achieved by setting the heightfor one groove, machine along its length.Turn the material over and machine thesecond groove. The last groove in themiddle of the surround can be routed byresetting the height of the cutter until in is inthe centre of the timber section.

Picture frames and mirror The simplest method for most shapes, is tocut the mould on a wider piece of timber andthen part it afterwards. The timber isprepared to the correct thickness for framingand routed using the same methods ascutting architrave. To rebate the back of the frame, fit the twoflute straight cutter ref. DH/03 into the tableand set the height to give the correct heightof rebate. Position the fence so that thecorrect depth of rebate is obtained. Thetimber will become very narrow and quiteweak, so fit the top and side pressureclamps to securely hold the material beingrouted. The mould is then parted from thecore material on a saw bench.

Grooving and rebatingRebates and grooves can be routed usingthe straight fluted cutters. The smallestdiameter cutters must be used with greatcare as they can be broken easily if too deepa cut in one pass is made. For rebates, it isadvisable to use the larger diameter two flutecutter ref. DH/03. Even larger diameterstraight cutters are available. These can bepurchased separately, such as Trend refs.C006X1/4TC which has a 6.3mm (1/4”)diameter or C013X1/4TC (9.5mm or 3/8”diameter). For both grooves and rebates thecutter is fitted into the table and the height ofthe tool is set. Once the height is set,position the fence so that the correct depthof rebate is obtained.

DH

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DH

/03

DH

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Top pressure

Side pressure

Top pressure

Side pressure

Top pressure

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FinishingThe moulds can be cleaned up with fine wirewool. Rough sawn edges can be cleaned upwith fine grades of abrasive paper glued to aflat board, or by using a hand plane. The mouldings can be stained, painted, oiledor left uncoated.

Guide bushes and templates With the router used portably, a guide bushcan be fitted and used in conjunction with atemplate. It enables the router to be guidedaround the edge of a pre-cut template oralong a slot of similar width as the guidebush diameter. The guide bush itself, is fitted flush into thebase of the router and has a short flangeconcentric to the cutter. This flange is runagainst the edge of the template or guide.When routing, follow the normal feeddirection (i.e. against the rotation of the

cutter), depending on whether it is aninternal or external template. Keep theflange tight against the template and do notlift the router as the cutter will damage thetemplate edge. The cutter will always leaverounded corners. These can be madesquare with a sharp chisel.

The template can be made from 6mmplywood or MDF. The use of thin materialallows ease of shaping and finishing. When drawing out the template shape,remember that the difference between thecutter and outside guide bush diameterneeds to be allowed for. This margin (E) iscalculated by deducting the cutter diameter(d) from the guide bush diameter (D) anddividing the remainder by two. For externaltemplates deduct this amount from eachedge of the template or guide, or for internaltemplates add this amount to each edge.

UnibaseThe Unibase enables routers with non-standard guide bush fittings to accept the fullrange of Trend guide bushes. This mouldedplastic sub-base come pre-drilled to fitdirectly to most makes of router.

Guide Bushfitted to routerTemplate

E

dD

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Walls and window aperturesTemplates can be made that allow the routerto rout out the window apertures anddoorways, as well as cutting the outer edgesof walls and roof sections The straight twoflute cutter Ref. DH/03 used in conjunctionwith a guide bush will enable the shape of atemplate to be followed on thin material, nomore than 6.35 (1/4”) thick. Several passesmust be made. For normal thickness walls(i.e. 3/8” ply or MDF) a straight cutter mustbe purchased separately, with a largerdiameter and longer cut length, e.g.C013X1/4TC. The machined edges will onlyrequire minimal cleaning up with abrasivepaper. Choose a guide bush diameter thatwill leave at least 2mm clearance betweenthe cutter and inside edge of the guide bushring, to allow waste to clear easily.

Alternatively a bearing guided trimmer cuttercan be purchased, this will enable thetemplate to be made the same size as thefinished product. This cutter is availableseparately in the Trend Craft Range or isincluded in the 12 piece Starter Set ref.SET/SS3.

Recessing hinges for dollshouse frontsA simple template cut from thin plywood canbe used for recessing hinges. Cut thetemplate to size allowing for the guide bushmargin. Pin a clamping block to thetemplate edge or simply clamp the templatein position over the work. Square the routedcorners of the recess.

Joining walls and roofsA guide bush can also be used for cuttinggrooves to form joints between walls. This iscarried out using a ‘Tee square’ with a slot, thesame diameter as the outside guide bushdiameter, cut along the blade of the square.Edge joints are best formed by cutting a rebate,either using a self-guiding rebate cutter, or astraight cutter held in a table-mounted router.

Template

Simple templates for doorand window apertures

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5.0

1.6

DH

/01

5.0

2.0

DH

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8.0

3.2

DH

/03

STRAIGHT CUTTERS

Thin false table

Table

Fence

D

DH

/

Table

Thin false tableFence

Rebates

Sash rails andstiles

Sliding box sashframe casing

CUTTER SELECTION44

All dimensions in mm

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DH

/04

1.0

12.7

7.0

VICTORIAN BULL NOSE

Fence

Table

Skirting

Door surround

Architrave

22www.trend-uk.com

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DH

/05

12.7

1.0 9.5

Fence

Table

Dado Dado

Skirting Architrave

Picture rail Picture frame

TORUS BEAD

23 www.trend-uk.com

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Page 24: Dolls house mouldings

3.5

13.0

22.0

DH

/06

MULTI-MOULD

Fence

Table

Bead

Bead

Bead

24www.trend-uk.com

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Page 25: Dolls house mouldings

Cornice Coving Cornice

Cornice

Skirting Architrave Picture Frame

Ovolo mould

25 www.trend-uk.com

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Page 26: Dolls house mouldings

7.5

12.7

1.6

DH

/07

45°

MODERN TORUS

Fence

Table

Nosings Nosings

Nosings

Skirting Handrail

26www.trend-uk.com

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Page 27: Dolls house mouldings

DOUBLE BEAD

Fence

Table

Beading Beading

Skirting Skirting

Dado Picture frame

5.5

12.7

0.8

DH

/08

27 www.trend-uk.com

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Page 28: Dolls house mouldings

DH

/09

2.0

2.022.0

10.0

OGEE CLASSIC

Fence

Table

Cornice

Cornice

Cornice

28www.trend-uk.com

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Page 29: Dolls house mouldings

5.1

12.7

DH

/10

45°

BEAD OGEE

Door Surround Architrave

Skirting Skirting

Fence

Table

29 www.trend-uk.com

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Page 30: Dolls house mouldings

DH

/11

8.32.0

15.9

1.51.0

TRIPLE CLASSIC

OVOLO

Fence

Table

Dado Shelf

Cabinet/Table

Shelf Picture Frame

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Page 31: Dolls house mouldings

15.2

15.0

0.75

1.0

1.5

DH

/12

TRIPLE BEAD

Fence

Table

Nosings & Beadings

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32

ALWAYS use the router and other power tools in a safemanner and away from children.

BEWARE of unsafe working practices and potential hazards when using a router.

CLOTHING such as ties or loose or baggy garments, whichmay be accidentally caught and pulled into the cutter shouldnot be worn or should be tied back when using a router.

DUST presents a severe health risk if inhaled. Always wear adust mask, Airshield powered respirator and/or use a vacuumextractor connected directly to the router.

EYE protection must also be worn to protect the operator fromejected waste particles.EAR protection should also be worn, when routing for longperiods of time.

FEED direction of the cutter into the workpiece or the workpiece into the cutter should be against the rotation of the cutter.

GUARDS should always be used when using a router mounted in a table. Always ensure that your fingers cannot make contact with the cutter. Always use a push stick together with hold down clamps when machining small timber sections when the router is mounted in a table.

HURRIED setting up and routing can lead to accidents. Take your time to prepare yourself and the machine. Carry out safety checks before switching on.

INSPECT the condition of the router cutter before use. Ensurethat the cutter is held firmly in the collet, rotates freely and iswell away from the work before the power is switched on.

JUDGE the correct feed speed by listening to the tone of the router.

KEEP router cutters sharp. Take care when handling themespecially when removing them from the collet or from a storage block.

LISTENING to the sound of the router will often indicate thatthe cut is being made too deep or that the cutter is blunt.

MANUALS and other information supplied with the router or cutters should be read thoroughly to ensure you are familiar with the controls, functions, and operating procedures.

NEVER leave the router running unattended. Wait until the router comes to a complete stop and switch off at the wall plugbefore making adjustments, changing the cutter or operating the spindle lock.

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

THE A-Z OF SAFETY55

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33

OBSTRUCTIONS should be kept clear of the path of the router and the routing area. Do not clear swarf or other debris away from the cutting area with the machine still running.

POWER to the router must always be switched off and the machine isolated from the supply before changing cutters or making adjustments. Make sure the power switch is ‘Off’, before plugging in, to avoid accidental starting.

QUESTIONS regarding the safe operation of your router canbe answered, by Trend’s Technical Department. The addressand phone/fax numbers can be found at the end of thispublication.

ROUTERS must be allowed to reach their full running speed before commencing any routing operation. Do not switch therouter on with the cutter touching the workpiece.

SHORT-CUTS must not be taken to the detriment of safe working practice.

TIDY work areas and benches help to prevent accidents.Always keep the floor around the work area clear of all obstacles. Store router on a shelf, in a cupboard or in astorage box, so chips and nails cannot fall into the air intake.

UNDERSTANDING the current statutory woodworking regulations (such as the ‘Supply of Machinery (Safety)regulations 1992’ and ‘The Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations 1992’ and any amendments) is essential for all professional router users.

NO-VOLT release switches should be fitted to all tablemounted routers, both to isolate the router in an emergencyand to prevent it switching back on when power is restoredafter a power failure or supply disconnection.

WORKPIECES must always be securely and safely clamped to the work bench, in a vice or by some other means prior tocommencing the routing operation. Do make sure that anyclamps are not within the path of the router.

EXAMINE the cutters and router collet before use. Equally check that any knobs or screws on the router are tight and have not vibrated loose.

YOUR safety when routing is more important than the router or its cutters.

ZERO accidents should be the first consideration when usingrouters and other power tools.

O V

W

X

Y

Z

P

Q

R

S

T

U

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34

It is essential to regularly maintain yourcutters and collets in order to keep them in asafe and usable condition.

It will also help to maintain the life of yourrouter by keeping the loads imposed upon itto a minimum.

Keeping your cutters sharp is a very simpleoperation requiring little skill andremembering a few basic rules.

Clean all resin deposits from the cutter withResincleaner® solvent or by scraping with apiece of stiff plastic before applying a drylubricant spray such as Trendicote.

Use a diamond sharpening stone to regularlyhone your cutters, but only ever hone arouter cutter on the flat face of the cuttingedge.

When honing your router cutters, apply lighteven pressure and use an equal number ofstrokes on each cutting face.

Brass brushes should be used to removedeposits from the inside of the collet.

Regular application of a dry lubricant spraywill prevent resin build up.

Rustbuster® is used to lubricate the pillars ofthe router & to prevent surface corrosion.

CUTTER & COLLET CARE6

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