Drape Sleeve

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    " KEY TERMScalle shapedraftingelbow dart

    GENJ

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    Drapi ng P roc es s: F ound at io n S e t- In S le e veBe for e d ra pi ng t he fo und ati on s et- in s lee ve, re mo ve t he p re vi ou s pi ngu id es f ro m t he d re ss f orm. Ne xt , t he f oun da ti on b od ic e d ra pe (n ott he fo und ati on bo di ce p ro tot yp e) m us t b e a dj us ted a nd pi nn ed to t hedress fo rm .

    Figure 5.2 Armhole guide pins.

    I

    Adjusting the FoundationBodice DrapeRepin the side seams of the bodice together ont he br ok en l in es (t he or igi na l s id e s eam ). Thebo di ce i s r ep in ne d a t t h e s id e s ea m on ly fo rt he p urp os e o f dr ap in g th e s lee ve . The s ho ul -de r s ea m o f th e b od ic e s ho ul d r em ai n p in ne dtogether.

    P la ce t he p re pa re d b odi ce on t he d re ssf or m. Pi n th e c en te r fr on t an d ba ck f ol d l in es o ft he b od ic e t o t he c en te r fr on t an d b ac k s ea msof t he d re ss fo rm . P in t he s ho ul de r a nd s id es eam s o f t he b od ic e f lu sh to t he s ho ul de r an ds id e s ea ms of t he dr es s f orm.

    Armhole Guide PinsNext, the armhole guide pins a re pl ac ed at k eyp oi nt s. T he a rm ho le g ui de pi ns a re pi nn ed ont he b odi ce a rm ho le s eam li ne, f lu sh t o th e d re ssform as fol lows.

    SHOULDER SEAM GUIDE P NP la ce a g ui de p in a t t he i nt ers ec ti on o f t heu pp er a rm ho le a nd t he s ho ul de r s eam of t hebo di ce, t o th e s ho ul de r s ea m o f t he d re ss f orm .

    ARMHOLE SEAM GUIDE P NSP la ce a gu id e p in a t t he f ron t ar mh ol e s ea mof t he b od ic e t o t he d re ss f or m, 1;' inch belowt he ar m p la te s cre w l ev el . Con ti nue a cro ss t hescrew pl ate to the back at the same l evel, andplace a guide pin at the back armhole seam ofth e b od ic e, t o t he d re ss f or m. O n t he b od ic e,p la ce c ro ss ma rk s a dj ac ent t o t he f ro nt a ndb ack a rm ho le sea m g uide p in s. P la ce a no th erc ro ssma rk in t h e b ack, 1;' i nch b elow t he f ir stcross mark.

    -_3.;:: - ---_--SIDE SEAM GUIDE P NP la ce a g ui de pi n a t t he i nte rs ec ti on of t hel owe r a rmh ol e a nd th e s id e s ea ms of t he bo di cet o t he s ide s ea m of t he d re ss f or m (Fi gu re 5 .2) .

    116 DRAPING BASICS

    Dr ap in g t he Unde ra rm P an elA ft er t he bo di ce h as b een p re par ed , t he u n-d era rm pa nel of th e s lee ve i s d rap ed . Th e u n-d er ar m p an el fo rm s t he u nd er ar m c urv e o f t hesleeve and it is draped from the si de seam ofth e b od ic e to t he f ro nt an d ba ck a rm ho le s eamguide pins.

    Length and Width of FabricDetermine the length of the fabric by mea-s uri ng 2 i nc he s a bo ve t he ar mp la te s cr ewlevel o f t he d re ss f or m. C on tinu e m ea su ringal on g t he ar m p lat e, d own t he s id e s ea m, toth e i nte rs ec ti on o f t h e bo tt om o f t h e wai st -l in e t ap e a nd th e s ide s eam , an d re cor d(Figure 5.3).

    L e ng th o f f a b ri c: - -

    Figure 5.3Length ofji,bric.

    FOUNDATION SET-IN SLEE'

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    Determine the width of the fabric by mea-suring from the front armhole seam guide pin,across the armplate screw level, to the back

    armhole seamguide pin (Figure 5.4). Add 4inches to the measurement, and record.

    Width of f ab ri c: _ _ + 4/ 1 = __

    Figure 5.4 Width ojjid,rir.

    I DRAPrNG n x s rc s

    Lengthwise and CrosswiseGrainsCut a p iece o f gingham fabric along thelengthwise and crosswise checks equal tothe length and width measurements thatwere recorded. Press the rectangle of fabric.Note: For muslin fabric, clip the edges

    and tear the fabric along the lengthwiseand crosswise grains equal to the measure-ments that were recorded. Block and pressthe fabric. Forinstructions on blocking andpressing, seethe section entitled "Blockingand Pressing" inChapter 2 (p. 13).Lengthwise GrainlineDivide the fabric in half lengthwise, and drawthe lengthwise grainline inthe middle of thefabric. On the dress form, measure from thearmplate screw to the side seam guide pin,and record.

    Side seam guide pin position: _Along the lengthwise grainline of the

    fabric, measure 2 inches down from the topof the rectangle, crossmark, and draw a hor-izontalline the width of the fabric. Continuemeasuring down the grainline, and cross-markthe posit ion ofthe side seamguide pinas recorded (Figure 5.5).Fabric PlacementPinthe fabric to the dress form, matchingthe lower crossmark to the side seam guidepinon the dress form. Keep the lengthwisegrainline perpendicular to the floor,and pin itto the dress form.Note: The lengthwise grainline when kept

    perpendicular to the floor will not match theside seam of the dress form.

    At the bottom of the armplate, smooththe fabric uptoward the shoulder, and pinthe fabric to the dress form atthe fron.tand the back armhole seam guide pins(Figure 5.6).Note: Double-check that the armhole

    seam guide pins are 11 2 inch down from thelevel line. Ifthey are not, adjust the pins andthe crossmarks, not the drape.

    2"

    Side SeamG u id e P i nPosition

    LengthwiseV Grainline

    1

    Figure 5.5 Lengthwise gramline.

    Figure 5.6 Fabric placement.

    FOUNDATION SET-IN S,LEEV'E ] ]9

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    120 DRAPING BASICS

    Marking the Underarm CurveSeam lineOn the fabric, crossmark the front and the back armholeseam guide pins. Place another cross mark at the back, '/2inch below the first crossmark.Note: One crossmark indicates the front of the under-

    armpanel. Twocrossmarks indicate the back of the under-arm panel.

    Transfer the lower armhole seamline of the bodice tothe fabric with a series ofbroken l ines from the front totheback crossmark (Figure 5.7).Takethe underarm panel offthe dress form and set i taside.

    Figure 5.7 Ma.rkingthe underarm curvescamline.

    Draping the Overarm Panel Length and Wdth of FabricDetermine the length of thefabric by measuring1'/2 inches above the shoulder seam guide pin.Continue measuring along the armplate, downthe side seam,to the intersection of the bottomof the waistline tape and the side seam, andrecord (Figure 5.8).

    Thesleeve cap is developed bydraping theoverarm panel from the armhole seam guidepins to the upper armhole of the bodice.

    ."P .'!''tl,. FOUNDATION SET-IN SLEEV

    Length of f abric: _

    Figure 5.8 L e n gt h ( ~ r I( L h ri c .

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    Figure 5.9 Wid/.h a/fabric.

    122 DRAPING BASICS

    Determine the width of thefabric by mea-suring from the front armhole seam guide pin,across the armplate screw level, to the backarmhole seam guide pin (Figure 5.9). Add 5inches to the measurement , and record.

    Width offabric: + 5" = _

    Lengthwise and CrosswiseGrainsCut a piece offabric to the length and widthmeasurements that were recorded, fol lowingthe same procedures asfor the underarm panel.Lengthwise GrainlineDividethe fabric in half lengthwise, and drawthe lengthwise grainline inthe middle of thefabric. Along the lengthwise grainline, measure1V, inches down from the top of the rectangleand crossmark. Draw a horizontal line 1'/2inches long on each side of the lengthwisegrainline (Figure 5.10).

    Lengthwise/Grainline

    Figure 5.10 Lengthwise groinline.

    Figure 5.11 C o p h e ig h t.

    Cap HeightDetermine the cap height of the sleeve by measuring the dressform from the shoulder seam guide pin to the side seamguidepin (Figure 5.11).

    Transferthe measurement to the fabric by measuring downfrom the cross mark,along the lengthwise grainline, and cross-mark the cap height. Draw another horizontal line 1'/2 incheslong on each side of the lengthwise grainline (Figure 5.12).

    -----

    Cap Height

    Figure 5.12 C a p h e ig h t. crossnurrk,

    N ,,., . ..:p- "

    FOU NDATION SET-IN SLEEVE

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    Figure 5.13 Cap height. ease.

    Fold the fabric in half along the length-wise grainline, and pinthe cap heightease inplace along the marked line.Fabric PlacementPlace the '/2-inch cap height ease mark ofthefabric to the shoulder seam guide pin.Pin inplace to the dress form on bothsides ofthe '/2-inch cap height ease fold.

    Keeping the lengthwise grainline per-pendicular to the floor, pin the 'l-inch capheight ease markto the dress form. Pin inplace to the dress form on both sides ofthe I-inch cap height ease (Figure 5.14).

    Note: Because the lengthwise grain-line isperpendicular to the floor, it will notmatchthe side seam of thedress form.

    On both sides (about a V 2 inchaway)ofthe pinned t-inch cap height ease,pinch in anadditional '/2-inch ease ( 1 f 4 " +1 f 4 " = ' 1 2 " onthe fold), and pin.

    Figure 5.14 Fabric placement.

    l24 DRAPING BASICS

    Cap Height EaseThe cap height ease isdeveloped bypinning the fabric ina cone shape.The fabric ispinned along the lengthwise grainline, from the cap heightcrossmark to thetop crossmark.

    On the uppermost crossmark line, measure '/2inch out from thelengthwise grainline ( ' 1 2 " + ' 1 2 " =1" ease onthe fold), and mark.Alongthe cap height crossmark line, measure 1 inch out from the lengthwisegrainline (1" + 1" = 2" ease on the fold), and mark.Using a straight-edge ruler, connect the markswith a straight line (Figure 5.13).

    Figure 5.15 Cap ease. Figure 5.16 Marking the cap seamline.

    Cap EaseAt the armplate screw level,smooth the fabricup onboth sides ofthe easetoward the shoul-der.Pinthe fabric to the dress form atthe frontand back armhole seam guide pins. At thispoint, additional ease will form atthe front andback of the sleeve cap.

    Continue to smooth the fabric up 110mthe front and back armhole seam guide pinstoward the shoulder of the dress form. Dis-tribute the cap ease along the upper part ofsleeve cap-approximately 2 inches on eitherside of shoulder seam-and pin to the dressform along the upper armhole seam of thebodice (Figure 5. 15).

    Marking the C.P Seam lineOn the fabric, crossrnark the front and backarmhole seam 'guide pins. Place anothercrossmark at the back, '/2inch below thefirstcrossmark.

    Transfer the upper armhole seamline of thebodice to the fabric with a series of brokenl ines from the front to the back crossmarks(Figure 5.16). Takethe overarm panel off thedress form, and unpin the cap height ease.;

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    Trueing the Underarm andOverarm PanelsLay the drapes on a flat surface. Using a sharppencil and measuring tools, draw the seamlinesof the panels asfollows.

    Trueingthe UnderarmPanelUsingthe #17 French curve ruler, draw theunderarm curveseamline byfollowing thebroken lines on the fabric. Draw a smoothand continuous curved line from the front tothe back crossmarks.

    Using a straight-edge ruler, draw straightlines, parallel to the lengthwise grainlinefrom thefront and from the back crossmarks(Figure 5.17). Trim the excess fabric fromthe outer edges, on each side of the parallellines, to 1 inch.

    Figure 5.17 Trueing {he tuuiemrni panel.

    Cutting theUnderarm PanelUsing an L-square ruler,square lines on eachside of the crossmarks and cut the excessfabric along the lines. Cut the underarm curvealong the trued seamlinefrom the front to theback crossmarks.

    Cut the fabric along the lengthwise grainline,dividing the panel into two: one front piece andone back piece (Figure 5.1B).Trueing theOverarmPanelUsing the #17 Frenchcurve ruler,draw the capseamline byfollowing the broken lines on thef ab ri c. D raw a smooth and con tinuous curvedline from the front to the back crossmarks.Using anI-square ruler,draw a linefrom theguide pincross marks, parallel to the grainline,to the bottom ofthe fabric (Figure 5.19).Note: Do not cut the seam along the trued

    l ineat this point. The seamwill becut when it isjoined with the trued underarm curve seamline.

    26 DRAPING BASICS

    Figure 5.18 Cutting ()1. . (> underarm panel.

    Figure 5.19 Trueing the olJerarrn lIOnel.

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    . .Blending the LinesUsing the #17 French curve ruler, blend theunderarm and overa rm seaml ines a t t he cross-marks (Figure 5.21).

    Joining the Underarm andOverarm PanelsPlace the marked underarm panels face-downon top of the overarm panel, matching thefront and back cross marks as in Figure 5.20.The straight l ines of the underarm panelsshould match the overarm panel l ines. Pin theunderarm panels to the overarm panel so thatthe panels do not shift .

    Completing the Sleeve CapWith the panels pinned together, cut the sleevecap along the trued cap seamline (Figure 5.22).Leave the trued panels pinned together, andpress the sleevewith a dryiron.

    Figure 5.20 Joining the underarm and otcrar m. panels.

    28 DRAPING BASICS

    Figure 5.21 Blending the lines.

    Figure 5.22 C om p le l/ :n g t he s le ev e c ap .

    FOUNDATION SET-IN SLEEVE 129" .;:.. , . .

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    Size 6241/8"verarm Length 217/8"

    8 10221/4" 225/8"

    12 14 1623" 233/8"

    18

    Dra ft in g Pr o ce ss : F ounda ti onSe t -In S l eeveSelec t t he overarm length m ea su re me nt t ha tc orr es pon ds t o t he s iz e o f t he dr ap e, a nd d ra ftthe lower hal f of the sl eeve below the bic ep l ine.

    C ut a p ie ce o f p at te rn p ap er s ev era l i nc he sl on ge r t ha n t he o ve rar m l en gt h o f t he s le ev e.The paper should also be wi de enough to ac -com mo da te t he s le eve d ra ft .

    Overarm Length LineOn the paper, draw a s traight li ne equal to theoverarm length measurement. Cross mark andl abel the top of the line A a nd t he b ot to m B(Figure 5.23).

    P la ce t he d ra pe o n t he pa pe r, ma tc hi ngt he l eng th wi se c ro ss m ark a t t he c en te r o f t hes le ev e c ap t o p oi nt A o n t he p ap er , a nd pi n.M at ch t he l en gth wi se g ra in l in e o n t he s le ev e t ot he o ve ra rm l eng th l in e o n th e p ap er , a nd p in .

    Figure 5.23 Overarm lengthline.

    A

    Overarm LengthLine

    B

    13 0 DRAPING BASICS

    Cap SeamineUsing a sharp pencil, mark the edges of the trued c apseaml ine on the paper wi th a s eries of brok en li nes. Fromt he c apl in e c orn ers , m ark t he e dg es o f t he u nde ra rm s eam sof the sleeve down on each si de for about 2 inches withb ro ke n l in es . U si ng a n eed lep oi nt t ra ci ng w he el a nd t ra ci ngp ap er , t ra ns fe r t he c ap he igh t c ros s m ark an d t he a rm hol es ea m c ros sm ar ks t o t he p ap er . O ne c ro ss ma rk i nd ic at est he f ron t o f t he s le ev e; t wo c ro ss ma rk s i nd ic at e t he b ac k(Figure 5.24). R em ov e t he s le ev e d ra pe f ro m t he pa pe r.

    A

    B

    Figure 5.24 Cap seamline.

    .