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© 2011 The Merry Dressmaker (Angela Thornhill) www.themerrydressmaker.blogspot.com -The Merry Dressmaker’s- Basic Guide to Shoe Styles Athletic & Sport Aqua Shoes/Socks Made of a light and flexible synthetic rubber, aqua shoes/socks are designed to protect the wearer’s feet from rough and jagged underwater surfaces, while at the same time providing the wearer with heat insulation and traction. Bowling While the bowling shoe may look like any other athletic shoe (not all are multicolor monstrosities), the remarkable feature is in the sole: one sole is for sliding (made of leather or felt) and the other sole for breaking (made of rubber). The soles are generally removable, interchangeable, and replaceable. Constructed of a smooth leather upper or suede. Cleat Athletic shoes characterized by numerous large studs on the soles of the shoe which provide additional traction on soft and slick surfaces, such a grass. Often removable and replaceable as they wear down from use. Not to be confused with spikes. Various styles of cleat shoes include football and soccer. Climbing Shoe/Kletterschuh A soft, ultra thin, ultra-flexible, form-fitting shoe designed specifically for rock climbing. The unique feature is the rubber sole, which extends up the sides of the shoe increasing the surface area between the climber’s foot and rock face, providing the climber with an improved grip. Crampons A detachable spiked climbing accessory worn over the sole of a climbing boot for better traction on snow and ice; designed by outdoorsman Oscar Eckenstein in 1908. Constructed usually of stainless steel or aluminum; 10-14 spikes per crampon.

Dressmaker's Shoe Guide

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Page 1: Dressmaker's Shoe Guide

© 2011 The Merry Dressmaker (Angela Thornhill) www.themerrydressmaker.blogspot.com

-The Merry Dressmaker’s-

Basic Guide to Shoe Styles

Athletic & Sport Aqua Shoes/Socks

Made of a light and flexible synthetic rubber, aqua shoes/socks are designed to protect the wearer’s feet from rough and jagged underwater surfaces, while at the same time providing the wearer with heat insulation and traction.

Bowling While the bowling shoe may look like any other athletic shoe (not all are multicolor monstrosities), the remarkable feature is in the sole: one sole is for sliding (made of leather or felt) and the other sole for breaking (made of rubber). The soles are generally removable, interchangeable, and replaceable. Constructed of a smooth leather upper or suede.

Cleat Athletic shoes characterized by numerous large studs on the soles of the shoe which provide additional traction on soft and slick surfaces, such a grass. Often removable and replaceable as they wear down from use. Not to be confused with spikes. Various styles of cleat shoes include football and soccer.

Climbing Shoe/Kletterschuh A soft, ultra thin, ultra-flexible, form-fitting shoe designed specifically for rock climbing. The unique feature is the rubber sole, which extends up the sides of the shoe increasing the surface area between the climber’s foot and rock face, providing the climber with an improved grip.

Crampons A detachable spiked climbing accessory worn over the sole of a climbing boot for better traction on snow and ice; designed by outdoorsman Oscar Eckenstein in 1908. Constructed usually of stainless steel or aluminum; 10-14 spikes per crampon.

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Cycling Available in many styles, including road racing, touring, and mountain biking varieties. Notable features of the cycling shoe are its stiff leather upper, molded plastic or fiberglass sole, and a mechanism which allows the sole to attach firmly to the pedal of the bike.

Golf A flexible, well-fitted leather athletic shoe specifically used on the green. Noted for its specialized spikes on the sole of the shoe which jut in various directions for superior traction on uneven and slick turf, and for stabilizing the player’s form while in swinging motion. Water resistant/water proof.

Hiking A durable leather ankle boot specifically designed for hiking; constructed to give the wear extended comfort over many different types of terrain. Highly water resistant, deep lugged soles, stiff boot shaft for ankle support, and padded around the ankle and heel for comfort. D-ring (and hook) lacing system.

Ice Skate Ice skates are ankle boots with steel blades attached to the bottom the sole that allow the wearer to glide easily across ice. Available in several styles with specific blade types, depending on the sport or utility, including hockey, figure, bandy, and runner varieties. Shoe constructed from a rigid leather or similar synthetic.

Plimsoll Introduced by the Liverpool Rubber Company in 1830 as a beach shoe for men, this type of sneaker is characterized by its flat rubber sole and canvas upper. Also called gutties, sannies, and dappers. Lace, buckle, Velcro, or slip-on varieties.

Roller Skate Roller skates are generally characterized as ankle boots with two sets of parallel wheels attached to the bottom sole that enable the wearer to roll across a relatively smooth surface. Introduced in the mid-18th century by Belgian inventor J.J. Merlin. Shoe skates are typically made from a rigid leather or synthetic; slip-on skates are typically made of steel and/or plastic.

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Inline Skate A type of roller skate, but unlike the quad-skates which have two sets of parallel wheels, inline skates are arranged in line and can have 2-5 wheels per shoe. Developed in the 1980s as an off-ice substitute for speed skates. Snapping belts strap around the ankles rather than lace like traditional quad skates.

Ski Boot A specialized ankle boot with a latching mechanism used to attach the boot to a ski. Generally constructed of a hard plastic shell with a flexible nylon and foam inset for comfort and warmth. Styles of ski boot include the Alpine (skiing), Nordic (cross-country), and Randonée (touring).

Sneaker/Trainer Sports shoes are primarily used for athletic and other physical activities, as well as everyday casual footwear. Usually made of a durable and flexible leather or synthetic, like nylon or canvas. The shoe is noted for its flexible rubber sole, deep tread for traction and shock absorption. Come in low, mid, and high-top varieties. Lacing and/or Velcro straps

Snow Shoe A shoe accessory that attaches to the sole of the shoe and distributes the weight of a person over a greater surface area than boots or shoes alone. The wearer “floats” rather than sinks. Traditionally constructed with a wood frame and leather lacing – today’s shoes are made of metal and light-weight plastic.

Flippers/Fins Developed in the 1940s for the US Navy, the flipper or fin is constructed from rubber or plastic and designed to propel the swimmer through the water. The broad rubber blades act as extensions of the feet. Common styles include the paddle, split blade, and freediving varieties.

Toners A woman’s athletic shoe said to tone, tighten, and strengthen the legs, buttocks, and back of the wearer. Notable features of the shoe are the rolling soles and foam inserts under the heel - meant to simulate the feeling of walking barefooted and engage muscles not normally used when walking on hard surfaces.

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Waders A rubberized and waterproof boot, the wader is most commonly associated with fly fishing, although its uses are many, including industrial. Waders are distinguished from Wellingtons by the height of the boot shaft; height varieties start at the thigh and can extend to the chest area in bodysuit form. Wader styles come in boot-foot (molded as a permanent feature of the wader body) and stocking-foot (attachable and removable from the wader body).

Wrestling A high-top athletic shoe usually constructed from a combination of nylon and soft leather materials to fit tightly and form well to the wrestler’s foot. Noted for being very light weight, heelless, and lacing tightly above the ankle for support. Soles made of a very thin gripping rubber; no insoles – not built for shock absorption, but for stability on wrestling mats.

Boots (common) – Casual, Dress, and Work Ankle

The ankle boot has a closed upper, closed sides, and a closed back; shaft of the boot extends just over the ankle bone, but just below the calf. Heel type can vary in shape, style, and height; the toe can be open or closed. Constructed from natural or synthetic materials.

Australian/Chelsea/Dealer This style of ankle boot is usually constructed with a leather upper and pull-tabs on the front and back of the boot. The boot does not have a tongue or laces, but is characterized by its elastic sides which can run the height of the boot; round toe, flat rubber sole.

Ballet The ballet boot is a modern form of fetish shoe wear with a ballet pointe toe and an exaggerated stiletto heel. While the ankle boot is the most desirable style, the knee-high, thigh-high, and Mary Jane versions of the boot are also popular. The vamp is constructed of leather or vinyl. Closed toe.

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Bootie The bootie has a closed vamp, closed sides, and closed back; shaft of the boot extends just below the ankle bone. Heel type can vary in shape, style, and height; the toe can be open or closed. Constructed from natural or synthetic materials.

Cowboy A cowboy boot is a particular style of riding boot which comes in the western or roper styles. The western style is noted for its tall shaft and angled heel; the roper style is noted for its low shaft and squared heel. Toes for either style can be pointed, round, or square; constructed from a variety of leathers, most common being cow hide; often has elaborate tooling or stitching on the vamp and shaft areas.

Knee-high The knee-high boot has a closed vamp, closed sides, and closed back; shaft of the boot extends over the calf, but not passed the knee. Heel type can vary in shape, style, and height; the toe can be open or closed. Constructed from natural or synthetic materials.

Lobster Claw/Armadillo The lobster claw bootie/ankle boot was introduced by designer Alexander McQueen in 2010 and popularized by entertainer Lady Gaga. The boot is characterized by its 3-6 inch hidden platform and a claw or hoof like appearance.

Mid-calf The mid-calf boot has a closed vamp, closed sides, and closed back; shaft of the boot extends and rests between the ankle and knee of the leg. Heel type can vary in shape, style, and height; the toe can be open or closed. Constructed from natural or synthetic materials.

Over-the-knee The over-knee-high boot has a closed vamp, closed sides, and closed back; shaft of the boot extends just over the kneecap. Heel type can vary in shape, style, and height; the toe can be open or closed. Constructed from natural or synthetic materials.

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Rigger The boot derives its name from the fact that it is the standard issue footwear for off-shore oil rigger workers. The boot is characterized by its tan leather color, capped steel-toe, fur lining, pull-taps on the fronts and sides, and flexible rubber synthetic sole. Boot shaft typically mid-calf in length. Slip-on.

Sneaker Boot Introduced in the mid-1990s, this mid-calf to knee-high boot is meant to stylistically resemble a plimsoll, primarily the Converse athletic shoe. Typically constructed with a rubber sole and a canvas upper and boot shaft; pointed or round toe; flat or stiletto heel. Popular colors are white and red, white and black, and white and white.

Thigh-high The thigh-high boot has a closed vamp, closed sides, and closed back; shaft of the boot extends several inches past the kneecap and up the thigh. Heel type can vary in shape, style, and height; the toe can be open or closed. Constructed from natural or synthetic materials.

Ugg Originating in Australia, the Ugg boot is characterized by a flat rubber sole, closed toe, soft leather upper, and lined in sheepskin for warmth. Boot shaft can vary in length. Slip-on

Valenki A traditional Russian winter boot, the Valenki is made from a thick felted sheep’s wool; although it usually has a thin leather sole, it is often worn with galoshes to keep the feet dry. Boot shaft varies in length. Slip-on.

Wellingtons/Muck Boots A rain boot made fashionable in the early 19th century by Arthur Wellesley, the Duke of Wellington. The boot’s sole, upper, and shaft is waterproof and made almost entirely of rubber or a rubber synthetic. Boot shaft is usually mid-calf to knee-high in length.

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Winklepickers A boot (shoe) style made popular in 1950’s England; modeled after the medieval Poulaine and characterized by its extended and pointed toe. Although a low squared heel is most common for this boot, recent women’s shoe design has added significant height.

Dance & Entertainment Ballet Slipper

The ballet slipper is a light-weight dancing shoe constructed of a very soft leather, canvas, or satin, and having a very thin and flexible leather sole. Secured to the foot with satin ribbon or an elastic band that runs across the bridge of the foot. Introduced in France in 1730 and first worn by dancer Marie Camargo.

Ballroom/ Latin Shoes Characterized by their stacked suede soles. Men’s ballroom shoes are generally patent leather, have a 1” square heel, and lace; women’s ballroom shoes generally have a 2” heel and distribute the dancer’s weight evenly across the foot – the Latin version of this shoe has a 3” heel and places the dancer’s weight on her toes. Typically open toed and buckle strapped.

Character Shoes A Mary Jane or t-strap D’Orsay style 2” dance shoe made of flexible leather. Soft or hard sole varieties and may be converted to tap shoes by attaching taps to the toe and heel of the shoe. Typically black or tan in color.

Dansneakers/Dance Sneakers Designed to protect the dancer’s feet but still allow for bending, flexing, and turning. Noted features are its sneaker-like tread, but with a split sole. No arch support. Lace-up and usually made of canvas, leather or suede. Jazz and Hip-hop varieties.

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Flamenco/Tango Shoes Higher-heeled than ballroom shoes (3”-4”) with a shorter metal shank in the sole for greater flexibility. The insole is thickly padded for comfort; heel and sole are not only glued, but nailed for structural stability. Meant to fit snuggly on the feet as not to slide inside the shoe. The sole has little traction to aid the dancer in pivoting maneuvers.

Foot Thong A unique elastic dancing sock that slips on tightly over the ball of the foot and has a durable and flexible non-slippery suede or synthetic sole. Open toed and no heel. Protects the dancer’s foot from damage while executing turns and gives the audience the illusion the dancer is barefooted.

Ghillies A soft leather shoe/bootie used in modern Irish and Scottish dance. Originated in Scotland and designed to traverse the often muddy and wet terrain. Noted for its full or split leather sole, laces or elastic straps that crisscross over the upper foot, and lacing eyelets or loops. Tongueless; typically black in color.

Jazz An Oxford-style dance shoe made of very soft leather with a split sole to provide flexibility. Heels are generally 1” or shorter; lace-up or slip-on (elastic sides) varieties. Light weight and tight fitting.

Point Shoes A ballet shoe worn by dancers when performing point work. Unique structural features are the box-toe insert (incases and supports the dancer’s toe) and the sole shank, which gives support to the arch of the foot en point. Shoe secured by ribbon and elastic to hold the shoe to the foot/ankle.

Tap Shoes This shoe may have derived from Irish step dancing. They come in a wide variety of shoe styles and colors, and are noted for their toe and heel taps which are attached to the soles of the shoes. Taps can be attached by rivets or screws. Removable and replaceable. Taps are available in horseshoe and standard varieties.

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Historical & Ethnic Babouche Slippers

Moroccan – a slip-on shoe constructed of sturdy yet soft leather. Suitable for indoor and outdoor wear and usually characterized by their pointed toe, open heel, hand-stitching, and thin leather sole. Traditionally yellow in color – sometimes decorated with stitching and/or beading on the shoe upper.

Buskin Boots Grecian – Believed to be worn by the gods. Typically an ankle/mid-calf, open toed “boot” with no tongue and closed sides. It cross-laced from the instep to the top of the boot shaft. Constructed of leather or cloth. Most often worn my hunters and soldiers; sometimes worn by royalty.i

Campagus Roman – a military boot generally worn by high ranking officers. Like the Greek buskin, this “boot” was typically ankle/mid-calf in height, cross-laced up the boot shaft, and closed at the sides. Toe could be either open or closed. Noted for the small animal heads, paws, and teeth decorating the top of the boot shaft.

Carbatine Similar to a moccasin or ghillie, this shoe is constructed of a single piece of rawhide with lacing holes punched along the edges of the open upper. Leather folded around the toes, sides, and heel of the foot. Worn by common folk in medieval Europe. Still worn in many Slavic nations today.ii

Chopine Italian - a high corked or wooden slip-on platform shoe for women – popular during the 15th-17th centuries. Originally used as an overshoe (or patten) to protect shoes constructed of delicate fabrics from the damp and soil. Often worn with no decoration, however later styles were bejeweled and lavishly embroidered.

Clog/Klompen Dutch - a unisex boot or shoe characterized by its wooden sole. Slip-on or held on by straps. Can be constructed of all wood or simply a wooden sole with a soft upper nailed to the sides of the sole. Can include a steel-toe cap. Distinguished from a mule by the higher vamp.

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Geta Japanese -a traditional style of shoe adopted by the Chinese and Japanese more than 2000 years ago. Characterized by its elevated wooden sole, parallel teeth (one or two) under the sole, and toe thong. Open vamp, sides, toe, and heel. Oval (feminine) and rectangular (masculine) variations.

Giveh Iranian - a slip-on shoe commonly worn in the Middle East. It’s characterized by its intricate hand-woven vamp. The sole is typically made of thin rubber; the upper a sturdy natural or synthetic fabric. Traditionally the sole was made of leather and the shoe upper of a woven wool or heavy cotton material.

Jika-Tabi American - also known as tabi-boots, these outdoor boot/shoes are modeled after the tabi-sock and characterized by their split-toe. Constructed of leather, canvas, or nylon. Preferred by Japanese laborers for their thin rubber soles – some styles are now offered in hard leather with a steel-toe cap for safety. Ankle to mid-calf varieties. Closed up the boot shaft with eyes and hooks or a zipper. Typically washable.

Khussa/Mojari Slippers Indian/Pakistani - traditional indoor/outdoor slippers. Noted for their leather soles, very low over-lapping sides, and heavily beaded or embroidered decoration. Typically constructed of leather, but sometimes constructed of other natural materials such as heavy cotton. Heelless or mule variation. Slip-on.

Lily/Lotus Slippers A fetish shoe for women adopted by the Chinese in the 10th century (until the late 20th century). For a woman to wear the Lily Slipper, her feet would be broken at the bridge and toes, and tightly bound at a very young age, disabling her feet from forming properly. The desired effect was for a woman’s foot to appear child-like. Slippers made of fine embroidered and colorful silks, wood, and metal.

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Moccasins Associated most often with Native American peoples, the moccasin is characterized by its thin (soft or hard) leather sole and deerskin body. Meant to protect the foot while allowing the wearer to feel the ground. Slip-on and lacing variations – plain to heavily beaded/decorated styles.

Mukluks/Kamik A light-weight, mid-calf, slip-on boot traditionally worn by Arctic tribes of North America, such as the Inuit and Yupik peoples. Typically constructed of soft leather from reindeer hide or seal skin. Often decorated with beading, rabbit and fox pompoms. Noted for its unusual construction, which allows the foot to breathe, and for its “quietness” which allows the wearer to move silently across the snow.

Opanak A traditional shoe worn by the Balkan (Serbian, Bosnian, Croatian, etc.) peoples. Characterized by their sturdy leather (most often pigskin) construction, weaved leather upper, thin leather sole (which usually extends up the side of the slipper), and horned toe. Slip-on.

Patten/Estivau A shoe accessory popular in Middle Ages in Europe. A platform overshoe – constructed usually of wood (sometimes of metal), held on by leather or cloth ties, and worn over the wearer’s delicate fabric shoes to protect them from mud and dirt. Popular until the early 20th century.

Poulaine/Cracow A slip-on shoe characterized by its long and pointing toe – originated in Poland in the 14th century. Constructed of soft leather with a thin leather sole. Often worn with a patten to protect the shoe from mud and animal dung. Both men and women wore this style shoe, mostly the upper classes. Ankle and mid-calf boot variations were common.

Zori Traditional Japanese sandals that resemble the western flip-flop. Constructed of rubber, lacquered wood, leather, rubber, and rice straw. Characterized by their flat sole. Modern variations of the zori are constructed of cotton, satin, plastic and other synthetic materials. Often worn with tabi socks.

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Military Ammunition Boots

Introduced in the Victorian era, the ammo boot quickly became the standard issue footwear for the British Army until the late 1950s. It is an unlined ankle boot, constructed of sturdy black or brown leather, and laces from the instep to the top of the boot shaft. Upper and sides of the boot are dimpled.

Bunny Boots Nickname for the military issue Extreme Cold Vapor Barrier Boot. Usually insulated with a removable, one inch felted lining and meant to withstand freezing temperatures to -65F. Noted for its heavy moon-boot appearance and white color. Its black counterpart, meant to withstand temperatures to -20F, is nicknamed the Mickey Mouse boot.

Chukka/Turf/Desert Boots Worn by the British military in WWII, this ankle boot is characterized by its thin, flat sole, round toe, soft, tan leather upper, and two or three lacing eyelets across the instep/bridge of the foot. Popular today as a casual shoe.

Jackboots A reinforced, or jacked, military boot historically lined in chainmail to withstand an injury from a sword strike while on horseback. There are two types of jackboot: the cavalry (a winged, over-the-knee boot worn by the British Household Cavalry Regiment) and the hobnail (a knee-high boot worn by the German infantry in WWI; adopted today by many law enforcement agencies for their durability).

Jump/Paratrooper Boots A cap toed, combat ankle boot made from smooth black or brown leather; introduced and assigned to paratroopers in WWII. By lacing snuggly from the instep to the top of the boot shaft, it offered greater ankle support than the standard issue combat boot of the time. Today, the lacing jump boot is the most identifiable military issue boot and footwear associated with the armed forces.

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Jungle Boots A combat ankle boot made with a smooth leather toe and upper, canvas sides and boot shaft, and several ventilation holes for moisture evaporation; designed for moist, hot climates where standard issue combat boots would be impractical. Introduced just after WWI, but did not come into common use until Viet Nam.

Tanker Boots A combat ankle boot introduced in WWII and issued to tank operators. Unlike the standard issue combat boot, the tanker boot is noted for its leather ankle straps and buckles rather than laces. Designed for safety: leather straps (which do not loosen or melt), easy slip-on and removal, water resistant, and reinforced with a steel toe, steel shank, and steel heel.

Trench/Pershing Boot Introduced in 1917 and used to withstand the thick and sinking mud of the trenches during WWI. This ankle/mid-calf combat boot is characterized by its heavy black or brown smooth leather upper and boot shaft, a hobnail studded sole, and iron plated heel; lacing from the instep to the top of the boot shaft.

Shoes (common) – Casual, Dress, and Work Ballet Flats

Derived from the ballet slipper. Characterized by its very thin heel, or having no heel at all. A ribbon binding is usually stitched along the top of the shoe to allow the insertion of a tie (or elastic) used to tighten the shoe on the wearer’s foot. Round toed, constructed of leather, natural materials, or synthetics. Rubber or felt sole.

Blüchers/Derbys/Gibsons Named after 19th century Prussian general G.L. von Blücher. A men’s casual dress shoe noted for its lacing eyelet plackets which are sewn directly on top of the shoe’s upper (open lacing); tongue of the shoe is usually cut as one piece with the upper. Constructed of sturdy leather; leather sole; and a low ½ heal.

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Birkenstocks A German brand of sandal noted for its cork and rubber contoured insoles/footbeds, which conform to the wear’s feet. Introduced in the United State in 1967. Available in the Arizona, Boston Clog, and two-strap styles.

Boat/Deck Shoes Introduced by avid boater, Paul Sperry, in 1935. Originally issued to American sailors, but in the 1980s they became a popular civilian shoe. This shoe is characterized by the sipping pattern etched in the sole to provide traction on boat decks. Made of oiled leather or canvas; flat, rubber sole; eyelet lacing.

Brothel Creepers Introduced to the American market in the mid-1940s and modeled after the suede upper and creped-soled boots worn by European soldiers in Northern Africa in WWII. Characterized by their 2” solid rubber creped-soles and D-ring lacing. Associated with the 1950s and the swing band revival of the 1990s.

D’Orsay A shoe design meant to show the arch of the wearer’s foot. The style is characterized by a closed heel and toe box, but one side or both sides of the shoe are cut away.

Espadrilles Originating in the northern regions of Spain during the Middle Ages, this light, canvas slip-on is characterized by is flat sole made of rope. Modern variations include those constructed of natural and synthetic fibers; wedge and platform soles; closed and peep-toe styles; slip-on and lacing.

Flip-flops/Thongs Derived from the Japanese zori and made popular by service men returning home from WWII, flip-flops were introduced in their plastic and rubber form in England in the late 1940s. Generally characterized by their y-shaped toe thong and flat sole, although a wedged or platform sole is common.

Galoshes/Dickersons A rubber or synthetic footwear accessory that slips completely over the wearer’s boots or shoes in order to protect them from dirt, mud, or inclement weather.

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Mary Janes A low-heel, black patent leather dress shoe worn by young girls at the turn of the 20th century. Modern variations of this shoe are marketed primary to women in a wide variety of materials and colors. Noted for their wide, rounded toes and tied or buckled straps across the instep of the foot.

Monk Straps A traditional men’s dress shoe with varying design characteristics similar to those of the Blücher or Oxford, including a stitched cap toe and broguing, except that the shoe buckles across the instep of the foot rather than lace.

Mules/Marabou Worn since the early Middle Ages, mules became a popular shoe style for both male and female wearers in the mid-1700s. Today, the mule is primary worn by women. Generally characterized by their open heel and closed toe, although the peep-toe (or slide) variation is common. Slip-on; flat to high heel.

Oxfords/Balmorals This traditional men’s shoe first appeared in Scotland in the mid-1800s. Distinguished from a Blücher by its lacing eyelet plackets, which are sewn under the shoe upper; often sports a stitched cap toe design; low heel (½ inch); considered more formal than a Blücher.

Pump Historically worn by both sexes, but now typically a shoe worn by women, the pump is noted for lifting the wearer’s heel above her toes. Heels and toes can be closed or open; slip-on or secured by straps, buckles, buttons, or ties; heel heights and styles vary from jazz to stiletto, and from block to wedge. Constructed from a variety of materials, including a combination of natural and synthetic fibers.

Saddle Shoe A low heeled Oxford popularized in the 1950s and typically worn by teenagers. Characterized by its plain toe and saddle shaped lacing placket that runs across the shoe’s upper and over the sides. Constructed of leather with a soft leather or rubber sole. Popular colors are black and white, and brown and white.

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Sandals A shoe that leaves most of the wearer’s upper foot, heel, and toes exposed. Held on to the foot by buckles, straps, ties, or laces. Beach sandals are generally characterized by their flat soles and basic construction (flip-flops, Birkenstocks); dress sandals are generally characterized by a higher heel, dressier construction materials, and elaborate strapping, tying, or lacing designs.

Slingbacks Popular since the 1930s, this women’s shoe is noted for it open heel and heel strap, which extends from the inside ankle around the back of the heel to the outside ankle where it buckles. Typically a heeled shoe, although the flat-sole variety is common.

Slip-ons/Loafers A modern shoe modeled after the Native American moccasin. Characterized by its leather construction, low, wide leather or rubber heel, and the absence of straps, laces, or ties to secure the shoe to the foot. Styles include the boat, penny, and tassel variations.

Slippers A flat-heeled loafer or mule worn indoors and typically constructed of very soft or delicate materials, including leather, silk, satin, fur, and other natural and synthetic fibers. Designs vary from the plain and durable to elaborately decorated and bejeweled.

Wing-tips/Brogues Noted for its multi-piece construction, including its traditional closed toe eyelet placket, heel cap, and winged toe cap; decorative perforations (or broguing) and pinking along the edges of the caps and eyelet plackets. Toe types include the Quarter, Semi, and Long-wing brogues; lacing styles include the Oxford, Derby, Ghillie, and Monk.

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Heel & Sole Variations Chunky

Conical

Convertible

Cuban

Heelless Inverted

High

Kitten

Low

Prism

Spool/French

Square

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Stacked

Stencil/Cut-out

Stiletto

Wedge

Espadrille

Platforms

Toe Variations Almond

Dutch/Clog

Peep

Pointed

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Round

Square

Strap & Tie Variations Ankle Strap

Ankle Tie

Crisscross T-Strap

PLEASE NOTE: The names of athletic and designer footwear, shoe styles, and shoe technologies may be

trademarked by their manufacturers. The Merry Dressmaker uses these names and images to illustrate and

describe modern and historical footwear variations with the same familiar nomenclature used by the

manufacturer and recognized by the reader.

i Kipper, Cameron. “Buskin & Endromis” (sketch). History of Sandals <www.historyofsandlas.blogspot.com> Accessed 14 May 2011. ii Kipper, Cameron. “Karbatine (Carbatine, Carbatina, Carbatinae)” (sketch). History of Sandals <www.historyofsandlas.blogspot.com> Accessed 02 June 2011.