Dyeing of Polyamide Fibres

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    DYEING OF POLYAMIDE FIBRES

    WOOL, SILK AND NYLON

    DYEING MECHANISM

    POLYAMIDE STRUCTURE

    NH2---XCOOH

    NH2 END AMINO GROUP

    COOH END CARBOXYL GROUP

    X POLYAMIDE CHAIN (CONH)

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    EFFECT OF pH

    END GROUP ISONIZATION IS pH DEPENDENTH20

    NH2----X----COOH ------ +NH3 ---X---COO- (IN WATER)

    H+

    +NH3---X---COO- ---------- +NH3 ---X---COOH (IN ACIDIC SOLUTION)

    OH

    +NH3---X---COOH ------- NH2---X---COO- (IN ALKALINE SOLUTION)

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    DYEING MECHANISM WITH ANIONIC

    DYES

    UNDER NEUTRAL OR ACID CONDITIONS H+ DIFFUSE RAPIDLY AND GET ADSORBED ON WOOL FIBRE

    BECOME ASSOCIATED WITH END NH2 GROUP OF FIBRE TO GIVE

    CATIONIC NH3+GROUP

    DYE IONISES TO DSO3- Na+

    ELECTROSTATIC ATTRACTION BETWEEN DSO3 AND NH3+

    H20/H

    NH2XCOOH ---- +NH3XCOO- (Fibre in water))

    H2O DSO3Na ---- DSO3-+ Na+ (Dye in water)

    NH2XCOOH + DSO3Na - DSO3- +NH3---X---COO-+Na (Dyed fibre)

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    DYEING MECHANISM

    THE HYPOTHESIS THAT ANIONIC DYE IS

    ATTRACTED TO CATIONIC DYE SITE IS OVER

    SIPLIFICATION

    WATER SOLUBLE DYES HAVE

    HYDROPHILIC WATER SOLUBILIZING GROUP

    HYDROPHOBIC REGIONS IN THE FORM OF

    BENZENE RING WITH GROUPS LIKE OH, NH2 ETC

    CAPABLE FORMING H BONDS AND VANDER WAALS

    INTERACTION WITH FIBRE

    NATURE OF INTERACTION WILL VERY FROM DYE

    TO DYE

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    SCHEMATIC DYE-FIBRE INTERACTION

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    SUITABLE DYE CLASSES

    1. Acid dyes: are cheaper and produce bright shades,

    generally show low wash fastness

    2. Chrome mordant dyes: expensive. Produce dull shades of

    good all round fastness

    3. Metal-complex dyes: Are pre-metallized dyes . easy to

    apply and produce dyeings of reasonably good fastness

    4. Reactive dyes: comparatively new entrants. Give bright

    dyeings with good fastness properties.

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    DYE UNIFORMITY AND WASH FASTNESS

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    MIGRATION AND FASTNESS

    MIGRATION DECREASESS WITH mol.wt OF DYE(rmm)

    AFFINITY AND WET FASTNESS INCREASES WITH

    mol. Wt

    LEVELLING OR MIGRATION CAN BE IMPROVED

    USING SUITABLE DYEING AUXILIARY PRODUCTS

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    ACID DYES

    produce wide shade range.

    Acid dyes are so called because the original members of the

    dye class were applied in a bath containing mineral or

    organic acid

    most of the acid dyes are sulphonic acid salts but there are

    few containing carboxylic acid groups.

    Acid dyes have direct affinity to wool silk and nylon but no

    affinity to cellulosic fibres.

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    CLASSIFICATION

    APPLICATION POINT VIEW

    LEVEL DYEING OR EQUALIZING ACID DYES

    MILLING ACID DYES

    SUPER MILLING ACID DYES

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    LEVEL DYEING ACID DYES

    TWO SUB DIVISIONS MONOSULPHONATED DYES (r.m.m 300-500)

    DISULPHONATED DYES (r.m.m 400-600)

    POSSESS VERY GOOD LEVELING / MIGRATION

    PROPERTIES AT BOIL WET FASTNESS IS NOT SATISFACTORY.

    THE LIGHT FASTNESS IS GENERALLY GOOD.

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    DYEING METHOD

    These are applied at low pH value (2.5-4) using sulphuricacid(5% owm)

    there is danger of fibre damage at such a low pH.

    Glaubers salt (10-20% owm) must be added to assist

    leveling by competition between sulphate ions and dyeanions for the positive sites.

    The goods are entered at 600C, raised to boil in 30 min. and

    boiled for 45 min, cool, wash and dry.

    Level dyeing acid dyes are most appropriate when uniformdyeing is critically important with moderate wet fastness.

    used for dyeing of bright shades in pale and medium depth

    with high light fastness on woolen fabrics for ladies wear,

    upholstery and furnishings.

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    DYEING CYCLE

    acid is essential to achieve the optimum pH (2.5-4)

    sulphate ions are necessary to assist migration and levelness

    sulphate and dye anions compete for cationic sites on wool

    fibre.

    W-SO4 + D2- W-D + SO4 2-

    W represents a cationic site in the fibre

    D is the dye anion having 2 SO3- groups.

    Protonated amine groups in fibre are considered to be the

    primary sites of absorption but other groups such as amidesmay be involved at these low pH value.

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    DYEING CYCLE

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    DYEING PRECAUTIONS

    To achieve good levelness it is essential to givesufficient time at the boil to permit the dyes to migrate

    this is the main mechanism by which levelness is

    achieved. Procedure of dye additions for shade adjustment

    Turn off the steam supply

    Add the previously dissolved dyes

    Run for 5 min.

    Return to boil and boil for 30 min.

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    ACID MILLING DYES

    These dyes are so named because they have some degree of fastness tomilling process, which indicates a higher level of wet fastness than other

    acid dyes.

    Two main subdivisions.

    A. Monosulphonted dyes (mol.Wt 500-600), these have been described

    as half acid milling dyes since they migrate and cover well but are littleinferior to traditional acid milling dyes in terms of wet fastness.

    B. Disulphonated dyes of high mol. Wt (r.m.m) 600-900. These dyes

    diffuse much more slowly than typical leveling acid dyes and exhibit

    correspondingly higher wet fastness. However, migration and coverage

    properties are inferior and the addition of leveling agent is necessary. Non-polar Vander Waals forces are involved between these dyes and

    wool. Resulting in relatively poor migration properties.

    Hydrophobic interactions lead to reduced migration but increased wet

    fastness

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    DYEING BEHAVIOUR

    These dyes also tend to be more tippy- dyeing than leveling dyes i.e. theaffinity of the dyes for weathered tip of the wool fibre is different from

    that for the bulk of the fibre.

    For this reason and to obtain a slower and more uniform rate of

    absorption, dye leveling agents are normally used

    These products form complexes with dyes and allow solid, nonskitterydyeing with improved levelness

    Control of recommended temp and pH is essential

    Milling dyes are not easily combinable; they are therefore most suitable

    for self-shades.

    Typical dyeing recipe for milling dyes is

    Leveling agent 1-2%

    Sodium acetate 2 g/l

    Acetic acid to pH 5-6.5

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    DYEING BEHAVIOUR

    There is no significant migration at boil, therefore uniform

    dye uptake right from beginning must be ensured.

    The effect of sodium sulphate on level dyeing performance of

    milling dyes is negligible

    The dyeing pH will depend on depth of shade .

    pH 5-6.5 may be used

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    SUPER MILLING ACID DYES

    Super milling acid dyes are similar to disulphonated milling acid dyesbut contain higher alkyl substituents (e.g. butyl, octyl, dodecyl) to impartmore hydrophobic character to the dye molecule.

    These dyes show exceptionally good wet fastness.

    They are used for bright colours on loose wool or slubbing where anybatch to batch variations can be eliminated by blending

    These dyes are applied with a leveling agent and dyeing method iscarefully designed to ensure uniform uptake since the dyes do notmigrate readily. .

    This group comprises the dyes of high anion affinity which requireminimum of acid. These are sometimes called neural dyeing acid dyes.

    The dyeing procedure is The material is entered at 600C into dyebath containing 2-5% of

    ammonium acetate The temp. is raised to boil in 45 min. It may benecessary to add 1-2% of acetic acid (30%) after boiling for 30 min. inorder to exhaust the dye bath.

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    CHROME MORDANT DYES

    Chemically chrome mordant dyes are closely related to acid dyes but

    their molecules contain additional groups in O,O position ( such as OH

    OH, OH NH2, COOH COOH etc) which enables the dye to form stable

    co-ordination complex with chromium within the fibre.

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    CHROME MORDANT DYES

    Mordant dyes show good wet fastness property. The salts of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn are suitable as mordants.

    Of these the salts of Cr are of importance to wool dyeing.

    Hence mordant dyes for wool are usually referred to as

    chrome dyes.

    Methods of application

    1. Chrome mordant method

    2. Metachrome method

    3. Afterchrome method

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    CHROME MORDANT METHOD

    Wool is first treated with Cr compound like Sod. Or Potassium

    dichromate and then dyed. This is the oldest method but now not very popular because it involves

    two bath process,

    lengthy and expensive in terms of time and energy

    Mordanting

    The material is entered at 600

    C into a bath containing dichromate(1.5% owm) and formic acid (2% owm).

    The temperature is raised to boil in 45 min. and boiling continued for60-75 min.

    The fabric is then washed with hot and cold water.

    Dyeing

    The well-rinsed material is entered into the dye bath containing

    1-5% acetic acid (30%) at 500C,

    the temperature is raised to boil and boiling continued for 60-90 min.

    The fabric is then washed with hot and cold water.

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    AFTER CHROME METHOD

    Most widely adopted method.

    The dyeing and chroming processes although separate steps are oftencarried out in the same bath, thereby reducing dyeing times, water and

    energy requirements.

    Additionally there is no restriction on shades as there is with the

    metachrome process.

    After chroming, dyeing gives better fastness properties than either of theother two chrome-dyeing techniques.

    The main disadvantage of after chrome dyeing is the difficulty in shade

    matching,

    since the final colour is not developed until the chroming stage.

    For this reason, shading additions are often made with milling or 1:2

    metal complex dyes.

    Shading dyes must be suitably resistant to chromate or dichromate anions

    in the bath.

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    DYENG METHOD

    The dyeing is carried out as follows.

    The goods are entered at 45 0C into a bath containing dye, 2% acetic

    acid (30%) and 10% Glaubers salt,

    the temp. is raised to boil in 45 min.

    kept at boil for 30 min. the dyebath is then exhausted.

    If necessary by adding more acetic acid or 0.5-1% or formic acid andboiling for a further 30 min..

    When the dyebath has been exhausted completely it is cooled slightly,

    Add dichromate

    Continue dyeing for a further 30-60 min.

    Boiling must be continued sufficiently long to ensure complete reduction

    of the chromate on the fibre.

    This method provides best fastness properties.

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    METAL COMPLEX DYES

    These dyes are also referred to as premetallized dyes.

    Earlier members of this class of dyes were produced from

    the premetallisable acid dyes.

    Therefore these dyes are also classified as acid dyes in the

    Colour Index.

    Though most of the transition metals can form complexwith the dye, commercially, chromium complex dyes are

    mostly synthesized and marketed.

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    1:1 METAL COMPLEX DYES

    the 1:1 metal complex dyes are prepared from dyes

    possessing chelating groups e.g O O dihydroxy azo dyes

    containing one or two sulphonic groups to render them

    water solubility

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    1:1 METAL COMPLEX DYES

    Besides o odihydroxyazo compounds, the 1:1 metal complex dyes

    include o-amino-o-hydroxy azo compounds and derivatives of salicylicacid. (COOH COOH groups).

    These dyes are mostly monosulphonates of mol.Wt. 400-500.

    This gives them dyeing properties somewhat similar to those of mono-sulphonated leveling acid dyes.

    In spite of the decline in recent years in the use of 1:1 metal complexdyes, the dyes continue to be used in the dyeing of loose stock and yarnfor floor coverings, hand knitting yarns and piece goods.

    They exhibit excellent level dyeing and penetration characteristics.

    The dyes have good light fastness and moderate wet fastness.

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    DYEING METHOD

    1:1 metal complex dyes are usually applied to wool from a strongly acidic (pH 2)

    dye bath ( hence dyes some times are referred to as acid dyeing metal complexdyes).

    Under these conditions the dyes possess excellent migrating and levelingproperties.

    Since wool absorbs approximately 4% owf of sulphuric acid (96%), an excess ofacid is required in order to maintain a suitably acidic dyebath.

    Chelating agents for water softening should not be used owing to demetallizationof some dyes.

    Because prolonged boiling under such low pH conditions can cause fibre damage,either reduced amounts of sulphuric acid or other acids such as formic acid (8-10%) owf) or proprietory leveling agent can be used.

    The dyes can also be applied at 80 0C so as to reduce fibre damage.

    BASF suggest the use of sulphamic acid in place of sulphuric acid.

    The pH of the dye bath at the beginning is 1.8,

    but as the temp. rises to boil the pH increases between 3 3.5 owing to hydrolysisof sulphamic acid leading to less fibre damage compared to sulphuric acid.

    NH2SO3H + H2O NH4HSO4

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    DYEING CYCLE

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    1:2 METAL COMPLEX DYES

    The wet fastness properties of 1:1 metal complex dyes are

    lower than those of mordant dyes

    their excellent migrating and penetration character, ease of

    application, good light fastness and comparatively bright

    shades made them popular till the introduction of 1:2 metal

    complex dyes in 1951.

    Owing to the weakly acid or neutral pH conditions used for

    application of 1:2 metal complex dyes they are sometimes

    referred as neutral dyeing metal complex dyes.

    These dyes are classified into two groups

    1. unsulphonated 1:2 metal complex dyes

    2. sulphonated 1:2 metal complex dyes

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    UN-SULPHONATED 1:2 METAL COMPLEX

    DYES

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    UN-SULPHONATED 1:2 METAL COMPLEX

    DYES

    These dyes are free of strongly polar ionic water solubilizing group like

    SO3Na.

    Water solubility is conferred by the inherent anionicity of the 1:2structure (arising from the loss of four protons from the two dye ligands)and the

    presence of non-ionic, hydrophilic substituents such as methyl sulphone

    (SO2CH3), sulphonamide (SO2NH2), methyl sulphonamide (SO2NHCH3).

    these dyes are salts of strong acid

    dissociate completely in dilute solutions to give aVely charged dye

    molecule. They show high neutral dyeing affinity and very good fastness to light

    and wet treatments.

    Their high affinity can cause rapid initial strike

    have slow diffusion and migration properties.

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    SULPHONATED 1:2 METAL COMPLEX

    DYES

    Introduction of sulphonic solubilizing group leads to dyes having poorleveling properties and lower fastness to wet treatments.

    Over the last 30 years great advances have been made in developing

    auxiliary products which improve the level dyeing properties of

    sulphonated 1:2 metal complex dyes

    Sulphonated 1:2 metal complex dyes are divided into two sub-classes

    Unsymemetrical monosulphonated dyes: The two dye molecules in the

    complex may be different

    Disulphonated dyes: Many of these dyes are symmetrical in structure

    and are cheaper than unsymmetrical monosulphonated dyes.

    They are slow in dyeing and do not cover irregularities well.

    They can be applied on wool using amphoteric or weakly cationic leveling

    agent with control of pH and temperture, but their intrinsic migration

    properties are poor.

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    DYE STRUCTURE

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    DYEING METHOD

    Dyeing is carried out at pH 5-6 using ammonium acetate.

    The usual method of application typically is as follows.

    The yarn or cloth is treated at 40 0C for 10 min. in a bath

    set with 2-4% ammonium acetate. Dissolved dye is then added

    the temperature is raised to boil in 45 min.

    After 30-60 min at boil the bath should have exhausted to

    the extent of 90% After dyeing rinse with hot and cold water

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    DYEING pH FOR DYE CLASSES FOR WOOL

    Typical dyeing pH for different dye classes forwool

    Dye bath pH for 80-85% exhaustion

    dye class pH

    Leveling acid dyes 2.5-4

    Milling acid dyes 4.5-5.5

    Super-milling acid dyes 5-6

    1:1 metal complex dyes 2- 4

    1:2 metal complex dyes 5-6

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    CHARACTERISTICS

    High degree of dye-fibre covalent bonding at the end of

    dyeing operation, minimizing the washing treatment

    required to give maximum wet fastness.

    The rates of adsorption is higher than rate of reaction to

    avoid uneven dyeing.

    A highly reactive dye will react rapidly with the fibre during

    exhaust dyeing reducing its chances of migration to get

    uniform dyeing.

    Whereas a low reactive dye will require extended dyeing

    time for the reaction to complete

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    CHEMISTRY OF REACTIVE DYES

    In theory dyes are capable of reacting with sites in the

    fibre such as OH in cellulose and NH2, SH (Thiol), OH in

    wool or silk.

    The dye fibre reaction can take place either by

    nucleophilic substitution or

    nucleophilic addition.

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    LANASOL DYES

    These have been introduced as compatible trichromatic

    system based on Lanasol Yellow 4 G, Lanasol Blue 3 G, and

    Red 6 G.

    Lanasol dyes based on -bromo acrylamido reactive group

    were introduced in 1966

    are known for their brightness of shade, high reactivity

    and good all round fastness properties.

    These dyes are capable of reacting with polypeptides

    through both nucleophilicsubstitution and nucleophilic

    addition reactions.

    The rate of fixation of these dyes on merino wool is 3 times

    higher than that of boiled silk.

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    LANASOL DYES

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    DRIMALAN F DYES

    These dyes were specially synthesized for wool and areamong the most important reactive dyes for machine

    washable wool.

    They are distinguished by brilliance of shade, highefficiency of reaction with the fibre and good wet and lightfastness.

    The reactive group in these dyes is 2,4, difluoro- 5-chloropydimidine.

    The reasons for the success of these dyes is the resistance tohydrolysis and high degree of reaction with fibre.

    The fluorine atom in position 4 reacts first because of itshigh reactivity but the reactivity of fluorine atom in position2 is also high enough to further react with wool.

    Their excellent wet fastness is due to their high fixation ratioof the order of 95% and above.

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    DRIMALAN F DYES

    The high fixation ratio has been attributed to the high reactivity of

    partially hydrolyzed dye, since the reactivity of second fluorine -carbon

    is only slightly decreased after the first fluorine has reacted with wool.

    These findings indicate that the dye molecule has two reactive centers,

    which can react independently with the nucleophiles in protein fibres.

    There is also evidence that these dyes form cross-links both with wool

    and silk.

    In silk tyrosine OH group also takes part in the reaction.

    Levelling agents Drimagen F (S) and Avolan RE (BAY) are

    recommended to get uniform dyeing.

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    DRIMALAN F DYES

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    HOSTALAN OR PROCILAN E DYES

    DSO2CH2CH2OS03

    -

    Na

    +

    DSO2CH=CH2 + NH2PEPTIDEBeta Sulphatoethyl sulphone Vinyl Sulphone

    - DSO2CH2CH2NH--PEPTIDE

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    CHEMISTRY OF HOSTALAN DYES

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    CONVENTIONAL REACTIVE DYES

    Wool can be dyed with conventional rective dyes

    namely Procion M, H and vinyl sulphone (Remazol).

    These dyes produce shades with good wet fastness

    and brilliance when dyed at pH 8-9.

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    REACTIVE DYE REACTION WITH SILK

    Reactive dyes also form covalent bond with silk giving good wet

    fastness just as with wool or cellulose. Their preferred applications are in the yarn sector for coloured wovens

    in prints on washable goods and shirtings

    for dyeing discharge grounds on woven fabrics due to their gooddischargeability

    for dyeing knit goods especially washable articles.

    REACTION WITH SILK

    The reaction partners are mainly the terminal amino groups of thelysine, especially when dyeing is carried out in the neutral to weakly

    acidic region. In the alkaline region the phenol group of the tyrosine side chain may

    also react with the dye.

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    REACTION WITH SILK