Editing a Picture in PhotoShop 5

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    Editing a Picture in PhotoShop 5.5

    By Mike Ault

    So, you have used a light box and lights, set the camera for the proper exposure, whitebalance and such, used a tripod and your picture still comes out like figure 1.

    Figure 1: Raw Picture from Camera

    What can you do? Well, I use PhotoShop 5.5. other editors are gimp on Linux andPhotoShop Elements (and many others) which all allow adjustment of the photo in the

    areas of color balance, sharpness and levels.

    So I load the image into PS5.5 and end up with what you see in Figure 2. Immediately do

    a Save As and save the photo under a different name, this prevents you editing theoriginal.

    Figure 2: Photo Loaded in PhotoShop 5.5

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    First things to look at are:

    1. Do you need to crop?

    2. Do you need to cleanup stray lines, dust artifacts or other items?

    In the above photo, I do not need to crop and at least for now there are no dust, scratches

    or other artifacts to cleanup. So now what do I do about the non-white background? Iassure you, this was taken against a white background so how do I get it back? The

    answer is levels. Look at figure 3, it shows navigating the menus (Image, adjust, Levels)

    to get to the levels adjustment window. The Levels adjustment window is shown inFigure 4.

    Figure 3: Menu Path to Adjust Levels

    (Note: For Quick and Dirty try the Auto Levels item, it may do just great or it may not)

    Figure 4: Levels Adjustment Window

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    Notice the histogram, under it there are three tiny arrows, one on the left, one center and

    one on the right. These arrows are used to adjust the levels in the image. You canmanually shift them back and forth by using the cursor to select one, hold down the

    mouse left click and sliding it where you want to go. First, lets adjust the white setting.

    In our picture white will be easy, examine the non-necklace area, all of it is white, find

    the area that looks lightest. Now, using the mouse cursor, select the left hand arrow and

    slide it all the way to the right. Next, use the cursor to select the right hand eye-dropper.Move the eye-dropper to the area you decided was most white and then click the left

    hand mouse button. Just before I clicked on the left hand mouse button I captured Figure

    5.

    Figure 5: Left slider all the way right, eye-dropper is in mid lower-left quadrant

    Once you click the image should reappear with the background reset to be white. See

    Figure 6.

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    Figure 6: White Balance has been reset

    Now, if there are some colors still off, you can try setting Black as well a White. To

    set black first determine where the best black is in the picture. I usually move the

    Levels window so a corner points to it before the next step as in figure 7.

    Figure 7: Upper Left Corner on Best Black

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    Next, select the right most slider and move it all the way left. Then select the leftmost

    dropper and place it on the black selection and click. Figure 8 shows the image just

    before clicking on the dropper.

    Figure 8: Just before selecting Black

    Figure 9 shows the affect of setting Black on our image. Note that at anytime should the

    results not be what you want, you can use a CTRL-Z to eliminate previous steps.

    Figure 9: Image after selecting Black

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    Once you are satisfied, click on OK.

    Now, is the image as sharp and clear as you would like? Or is it a bit soft? I usually like

    to use an unsharp mask to clean up the image a bit and really bring out the details. The

    Unsharp Mask is on the Filters, Sharpen, Unsharp Mask menu trail as shown in Figure10.

    Figure 10: Unsharp Mask menu Path

    Click on the Unsharp Mask menu item and the Unsharp Mask Adjustment Window willappear. Note that all changes to settings will be shown live on your image as they occur.

    Figure 11 shows the Unsharp Mask controls.

    Figure 11: Unsharp Mask Controls

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    Notice we are currently set at Amount 32%, Radius 5.0 pixels and Threshold 9 levels.

    Usually radius doesnt have to be set more than 10 and threshold more than 12. I usuallyuse 5 and 9 for jewelry. The one control that you will probably want to adjust is the

    Amount control. In the Image above it is set to 32, look at the difference in Figure 12

    with it set to 132.

    Figure 12: Amount set to 132%

    See how the lines look crisper and the silver, well, looks more silver! However, beware!Over sharpening can result in curved lines getting jaggy and the halo effect against

    colored background. Tweaking the settings gives me an optimal sharpness with minimaljaggies and halos at about 114% as shown in Figure 13.

    Figure 14: Nominal setting at 114%

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    Once you get the image as sharp as you want, click on OK to return to the normal screen.

    Ok, we have adjusted white and black (levels) and sharpness. However, the image still

    seems a bit dull, lets look at brightness. Figure 15 shows how to get to the

    Brightness/Contrast controls.

    Figure 15: Brightness/Contrast menu path

    The Brightness and Contrast in PhotoShop consist of two sliders, one for brightness andone for contrast. Simply use the mouse and left click to select the control and move it

    back and forth to get the desired change. I want to increase brightness slightly then adjust

    contrast to keep details sharp. In this case I increased brightness by +29 and uppedcontrast to +8, see Figure 16.

    Figure 16: Brightness and Contrast Adjusted.

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    Now, with the brightness adjusted, notice that we are getting vignette effect (slight

    darkening) in the corners. If you like that effect, leave it, if you want to eliminate it, orany other defect such as a dust mark, scratch or unwanted background line, use the

    clone/stamp tool (it looks like an old rubber stamp on the tool bar. See Figure 17.

    Figure 17: Stamp/Clone tool selection

    First, make sure your brush selection is the proper size to clone just the area you want,

    too small and you can get artifacts, too large and it can be hard to get just what you want.You do this with a right mouse click. Next, place the stamp brush indicator (usually a

    circle) over the area you want to clone from and push the ALT-click combination to tell

    the tool to take pixels from the target and use them overlay where you tell it. Then movethe brush indicator to the target area and simply click to paint over the target. The sourcearea will move with the target area once you start clicking so be careful not to accidently

    clone something in the general source area as you move around. In Figure 18 I have

    cloned out the upper right hand corner to make it uniformly white.

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    Figure 18: Upper Right Hand Corner Fixed (not clone brush)

    Figure 19 shows the final picture with the corners corrected.

    Figure 19: Corners corrected, final image

    Now, using a white background you wont get much reflection and sometimes you wantthat. If you want reflections then use a colored sheet behind the glass stage area. Figure

    20 shows the before and after image.

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    Figure 20: Image Before and After Adjustments

    Hopefully with a bit of experimentation you can get your photos to where you are proud

    to put them on your web site!