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MARY CLARE MEYER fashion design portfolio

Fashion Design Portfolio | Mary Clare Meyer

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Page 1: Fashion Design Portfolio | Mary Clare Meyer

M A RY C L A R E M E Y E Rf a s h i o n d e s i g n p o r t f o l i o

Page 2: Fashion Design Portfolio | Mary Clare Meyer

A L A N G UAG E O L D E R T H A N WO R D S

Language calls upon the subtle forces of history – the trail of personal ancestry and history of life in the Ohio River Valley. A homage to my ancestors of blood and earth, I explored how patterns reach across time in an all but dead communication. However, it is a subtle, low beating, mystically attuned force. It is a language older than words.

The presence of plant derived knitwear and its innate process represents gradual growth and the linking of threads, such as familial webs grow and weave through time. Print motifs derived from the richly symbolic clay tablets of the Adena people cast their memory in this intuitive exploration of the timeless worlds that live within.

t h e s i s c o l l e c t i o n

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ideation

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YARN

model: Natalia

garment description: SS Sweater Dress

illustration

look: 1

construction notes

1.25” of ribbing at sleeve cuff

collar : self faced poly suede (woven). Facing, turn under 1/4“ and machine stitch in the seam

bodice straps: single layer poly chenille, bound with Mokuba tape, turned under 1/4” and sewn. CF end: turned under 1/4“ twice and sewn, to create lacing channel

two lines of ribbing on bodice extend 5” from btm of neckline, hand manipulated

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

Bodice gauge 4 (standard)SPI : 7.5RPI : 13

Skirt gauge 6 (standard)SPI : 7RPI : 10.5

gauge

SELFBodice, Sleeves:1 ply Linen 1 ply Ctn

Skirt: 1 ply Linen 2 ply Ctn

COMBOCollar: Poly Faux Suede (warm grey)

Bodice Straps: Poly Chenille (grey)

Neckline Lacing: Linen (Mushroom)

THREAD Coats and Clark All-Purpose poly (NuGrey)

BINDINGNeckline, Straps underside: 15 mm Mokuba tape 4693 (color 15)

YARN source: Silk City Yarns / the Row reclaimed YARN: Linen (dune) / Cotton (tan) mix

YARN

model: Macie

garment description: Bodycon Turtleneck sweater

illustration

look: 2

construction notes

turtleneck collar: sew off method cast off at top, leave clean

sleeves: latch off and leave clean at cuff

hem: e-wrap cast on, leave clean

serge together

TUCK PATTERN:using punch card No. 2, create free-form pattern by switching between lengthened and normal interpretations on card (rhs swtich on machine) and gauges 8-10

f+b body: cast on 82 needles, knit until 30” (180 rows)sleeves: cast on 60 needles, knit until 22” long (132 rows)turtleneck: cast on 108 needles, knit until 3.25”

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

gauge 8-10 (standard)

gauge

self4 ply mix: 2 ply candy cane polyamide (pink)2 ply spandex/viscose (mauve)

YARN source: Recycled, The RowYARN: 4 ply reclaim mix (see below)

YARN

model: Macie

garment description: Bodycon Turtleneck sweater

illustration

look: 2

construction notes

turtleneck collar: sew off method cast off at top, leave clean

sleeves: latch off and leave clean at cuff

hem: e-wrap cast on, leave clean

serge together

TUCK PATTERN:using punch card No. 2, create free-form pattern by switching between lengthened and normal interpretations on card (rhs swtich on machine) and gauges 8-10

f+b body: cast on 82 needles, knit until 30” (180 rows)sleeves: cast on 60 needles, knit until 22” long (132 rows)turtleneck: cast on 108 needles, knit until 3.25”

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

gauge 8-10 (standard)

gauge

self4 ply mix: 2 ply candy cane polyamide (pink)2 ply spandex/viscose (mauve)

YARN source: Recycled, The RowYARN: 4 ply reclaim mix (see below)

YARN

model:

garment description:

illustration

look:

construction notes

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

SPI :

RPI :

gauge

self

binding/facing

YARN source:YARN:

YARN

model:

garment description:

illustration

look:

construction notes

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

SPI :

RPI :

gauge

self

binding/facing

YARN source:YARN:

YARN

model: Molly

garment description: Wide neck, Blouson sleeve sweater

illustration

look: 3

construction notes

cuffs: use ribbing attachment on gauge 0

top sleeve tucking detail: using punch card no. 2, and plaiting attachment with hickory bamboo yarn

bottom hem: mock rib, every other needle

neckline: clean finish

CF rib details: 2 hand manipulated rib lines from bottom of CF neckline V to mock rib trim at bottom.

CHOKER: use ribbing attachment. finsihing: RHS= single crochet (2.5 needle) edge with four 4mm mother of pearl buttons. LHS= single crochet (2.5 needle) edge with four loops (4 chain stitches).

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

gauge 5 (standard)SPI : 8RPI : 12

gauge

SELFPerle Ctn (tobacco), single ply

COMBOTop sleeve detail: Perle Ctn (tobacco), Bamboo (hickory), single ply

YARN source: Silk City yarnsYARN: Perle Ctn (tobacco), Bamboo (hickory)

fabric

model: Molly

garment description: Full Length skirt with cut-out side panels

illustration

look: 3

construction notes

RHS contains faux-closure tab. LHS is actual closure

F+B panels sack lining for double weighted thickness and movement. Understich on inside seam

Hem: outer panel layer is longer, fold, press, and whipstitch close

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

threadCoats and Clark

closure1” Mother of pearl buttons (2)(found)

trim

selfLinen plainweave (Peach)

facingsame as self

interfacingPellon fusable P44FJAS

liningLinen plainweave (Persimmon)

bindingLinen plainweave (Persimmon)

fabric source: Recycled, JoAnn Fabricsfabric: Linen (peach, persimmon)

fabric

model: Molly

garment description: Full Length skirt with cut-out side panels

illustration

look: 3

construction notes

RHS contains faux-closure tab. LHS is actual closure

F+B panels sack lining for double weighted thickness and movement. Understich on inside seam

Hem: outer panel layer is longer, fold, press, and whipstitch close

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

threadCoats and Clark

closure1” Mother of pearl buttons (2)(found)

trim

selfLinen plainweave (Peach)

facingsame as self

interfacingPellon fusable P44FJAS

liningLinen plainweave (Persimmon)

bindingLinen plainweave (Persimmon)

fabric source: Recycled, JoAnn Fabricsfabric: Linen (peach, persimmon)

YARN

model: Katie

garment description: OTS Intarsia Sweater

illustration

look: 4

construction notes

body hem: 1” hand manipulated rib on every 3rd needlesleeve hem: 1” hand manipulated rib on every 3rd needle

neckline: knit double length with ribbing attachment (gauge 8) Sew on, then folded in half, hand whipstitched to inside neckline.

body side slits: 1” (height of ribbing)

intarsia: using custom Gaitskill punchcard. Tan yarn through carraige port A (background of design). Ivroy yarn through carraige port B (foreground of design)

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

selfgauge 4 (chunky)

rib necklinegauge 8 (standard ribbing attachment

gauge

selfCotton (ivory) 16 plyCotton (tan)16 ply

rib necklineCotton (ivory) 14 ply

YARN source: The RowYARN: Cotton (ivory) , Cotton (tan)

fabric

model: Katie

garment description: Wide Leg Trousers with pleats

illustration

look: 4

construction notes

closure: fly front zipper and button tab, hook and bar on inner tab

inseam side seam pockets (2)

WB: self facing, fold 1/4” and stitch in seam crease

pleating: front side pleats fold out ward. back side pleats are inverted

hem: fold 1/4”, fold 5” and stitch (visiable topstitch)

interfacing: used on WB facing only

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

threadCoats and Clark ####

closure1” Mother of pearl button (1)(found)

hook and bar (1)

9” std. zipper (Coats and Cark)(Rust)

trim

selfLinen plainweave (persimmon)

facingsame as self

interfacingPellon fusable P44FJAS

fabric source: JoAnn Fabricsfabric: Linen plainweave (persimmon)

YARN

model: Katie

garment description: OTS Intarsia Sweater

illustration

look: 4

construction notes

body hem: 1” hand manipulated rib on every 3rd needlesleeve hem: 1” hand manipulated rib on every 3rd needle

neckline: knit double length with ribbing attachment (gauge 8) Sew on, then folded in half, hand whipstitched to inside neckline.

body side slits: 1” (height of ribbing)

intarsia: using custom Gaitskill punchcard. Tan yarn through carraige port A (background of design). Ivroy yarn through carraige port B (foreground of design)

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

selfgauge 4 (chunky)

rib necklinegauge 8 (standard ribbing attachment

gauge

selfCotton (ivory) 16 plyCotton (tan)16 ply

rib necklineCotton (ivory) 14 ply

YARN source: The RowYARN: Cotton (ivory) , Cotton (tan)

fabric

model: Sarah

garment description: Coat Dress with belt

illustration

look: 5

construction notes

rib collar: fold knitted piece in half, bind at edges, attach to collar stand

HEM: stitch hem tape to edge. Fold up 2.5”, whipstitch

FACING: understitch on facing where poly meets linen lining

BELT: constructed in tube, top-stitched at 18” and 1/4”

backing the knit inset: sized and stitched onto flannel for reinforcement and size maintence

back inset knit intarsia: use custom “Gaitskill” punchcard

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

selfPoly Boucle (warm grey)

facingsame as self

liningLght. Wt. Linen (natural)

beltPoly Suede (warm grey)

welt pocketPoly Chenille (warm grey)

hem tape15 mm Mokuba tape 4693 (color 15)

knit inset backingCotton Flannel (cream)

threadCoats and Clark All-Purpose poly (NuGrey

fabric source: JoAnn Fabrics, Silk City Yarns, The Rowfabric: Poly Boucle (warm grey), Poly Chenille (grey), Lght.Wt. Linen (natural), Poly Suede (warm grey)

YARN combo

back panelgauge 6 (standard)SPI : 7RPI : 9.5

rib cuff/collargauge 4 (standard ribbing attachment)

gauge

back panelLinen (mushroom)/Ctn (caramel)=2 plyLinen (dune)/ Ctn (ivory)=2 ply

rib cuffLinen (mushroom)/Ctn (caramel)/ Ctn (ivory)= 3ply

rib collarLinen (mushroom)/Ctn (caramel)/ Ctn (ivory)= 3ply

FABRIC

model: Sarah

garment description: LS Baby Rib Jersey Dress

illustration

look 5:

construction notes

construct using serger 3 thread narrow overlock stitch

neckline/sleeve/hem: serge narrow folded hem finishing

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

selfBaby Rib Rayon Jersey (cream)

collarBalinese Handwoven cotton (natural)

threadCoats and Clark All-Purpose poly (Cream)

FABRIC source: JoAnn Fabrics, Dharma tradersFABRIC: Rib Rayon jersey (cream), Balinese Handwoven cotton (natural)

FABRIC

model: Sarah

garment description: LS Baby Rib Jersey Dress

illustration

look 5:

construction notes

construct using serger 3 thread narrow overlock stitch

neckline/sleeve/hem: serge narrow folded hem finishing

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

selfBaby Rib Rayon Jersey (cream)

collarBalinese Handwoven cotton (natural)

threadCoats and Clark All-Purpose poly (Cream)

FABRIC source: JoAnn Fabrics, Dharma tradersFABRIC: Rib Rayon jersey (cream), Balinese Handwoven cotton (natural)01 knitted dress 02 sweater jumpsuit 03 sweater skirt ens

04 sweater trouser ens 05 intarsia coat ens

Page 6: Fashion Design Portfolio | Mary Clare Meyer

process

Page 7: Fashion Design Portfolio | Mary Clare Meyer

What had been a love of knitwear for aesthetic and functional purposes took on new meaning as I connected with sweaters as garments that grow. As rows are layered one after the other, knitwear process mirrors layers of life and time as they progress within peoples and environments.

I also found significance in texture experimentation with knitted garments. The bumps, circles, and lines of tucking stitches can be manipulated to mimic the same forms present in the Adena tablets. Even classic cables mirror the iconography of the Serpent Mound burial site and various depictions of birds and humanoid faces found in ancient artifacts. I eventually felt called to depict a certain tablet (the Gaitskill) in a very literal way through intarsia. Using tonal colors, the comet and hand iconographs were imprinted onto one coat and sweater, displaying the subtle presence of archaic legacy in modern times.

All knitwear fibers used in this collection are plant derived and intentionally devoid of animal origin, as a personal commitment to vegan fashion.

k n i t t e x t i l e d e v e l o p m e n t

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01 knitted dress

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02 sweater jumpsuit

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03 sweater skirt ens

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04 sweater trouser ens

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05 intarsia coat

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R ED I S THE THREAD

Submission for 2015 CFDA Scholarship.

The Peruvian concept of earth goddess, Pachamama, is a fierce yet nuturing driving force of nature. Studies of Ecofeminism, indigenous Peruvian dress, and natrual textures inspired a collection that exudes gentle power and mystical expression of feminity. Exploring feminine energy as a creative connective force that binds the planet together, high-detail surface designs are explored as a metaphor for the interweaving of all life on earth.

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t h e s i s h i g h l i g h t Mu l t i v o ca l i sm i n Swea t e r 02

Much of the conceptual research for my thesis surrounded studying the clay tablets from the Adena people of prehistoric Ohio. Through both careful personal examination and anthropological research, I developed a nuanced relationship with the iconographic style and varying interpretations of their symbology. Adena tablet iconography is believed to convey multiple meanings when flipped alternate orientations, and different symbols lie in the negative as well as positive space. This inspired me to design Sweater 02 with the possibility to be worn frontwards, backwards, upside-down, and right-side up.

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01

03

02

04

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YARN

model:

garment description:

illustration

look:

construction notes

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

SPI :

RPI :

gauge

self

binding/facing

YARN source:YARN:

YARN

model:

garment description:

illustration

look:

construction notes

::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm

SPI :

RPI :

gauge

self

binding/facing

YARN source:YARN:

Page 23: Fashion Design Portfolio | Mary Clare Meyer

wilmington tablet

Page 24: Fashion Design Portfolio | Mary Clare Meyer

SER P ENT

The mythic presence of the serpent — a creature who symbolizes transformation and growth through the cycles of life — inspired a knitted and woven ensemble that visually demonstrates the transformation of an individual through the motif of a snake shedding its skin. The snake travels over the ground in an s-curve. Such serpentine waves can be connected to mathematical concepts such as sine frequencies, which are derived from tracking a single point in relation to the circle (perhaps the most rudimentary visual symbol of wholeness). The connection of these ideas within universal geometery and natural phenomena is meant to express change and transmutation as a fundamental part of becoming whole.

An open gauged coat softly mimics the shedded snakeskin in texture and color. Underneath is a wrap sweater top and bias draped skirt of linen.

All knitwear fibers from industry overstock

Coat: Silk/Mohair and Cotton blend Wrap Top: Cashmere Skirt: Linen

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4 4 0 . 5 7 0 . 3 1 2 0 | M C M E Y E R 2 8 @ G M A I L . C O M

M A RY C L A R E M E Y E R