Upload
mary-clare-meyer
View
218
Download
0
Embed Size (px)
DESCRIPTION
Â
Citation preview
M A RY C L A R E M E Y E Rf a s h i o n d e s i g n p o r t f o l i o
A L A N G UAG E O L D E R T H A N WO R D S
Language calls upon the subtle forces of history – the trail of personal ancestry and history of life in the Ohio River Valley. A homage to my ancestors of blood and earth, I explored how patterns reach across time in an all but dead communication. However, it is a subtle, low beating, mystically attuned force. It is a language older than words.
The presence of plant derived knitwear and its innate process represents gradual growth and the linking of threads, such as familial webs grow and weave through time. Print motifs derived from the richly symbolic clay tablets of the Adena people cast their memory in this intuitive exploration of the timeless worlds that live within.
t h e s i s c o l l e c t i o n
ideation
YARN
model: Natalia
garment description: SS Sweater Dress
illustration
look: 1
construction notes
1.25” of ribbing at sleeve cuff
collar : self faced poly suede (woven). Facing, turn under 1/4“ and machine stitch in the seam
bodice straps: single layer poly chenille, bound with Mokuba tape, turned under 1/4” and sewn. CF end: turned under 1/4“ twice and sewn, to create lacing channel
two lines of ribbing on bodice extend 5” from btm of neckline, hand manipulated
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
Bodice gauge 4 (standard)SPI : 7.5RPI : 13
Skirt gauge 6 (standard)SPI : 7RPI : 10.5
gauge
SELFBodice, Sleeves:1 ply Linen 1 ply Ctn
Skirt: 1 ply Linen 2 ply Ctn
COMBOCollar: Poly Faux Suede (warm grey)
Bodice Straps: Poly Chenille (grey)
Neckline Lacing: Linen (Mushroom)
THREAD Coats and Clark All-Purpose poly (NuGrey)
BINDINGNeckline, Straps underside: 15 mm Mokuba tape 4693 (color 15)
YARN source: Silk City Yarns / the Row reclaimed YARN: Linen (dune) / Cotton (tan) mix
YARN
model: Macie
garment description: Bodycon Turtleneck sweater
illustration
look: 2
construction notes
turtleneck collar: sew off method cast off at top, leave clean
sleeves: latch off and leave clean at cuff
hem: e-wrap cast on, leave clean
serge together
TUCK PATTERN:using punch card No. 2, create free-form pattern by switching between lengthened and normal interpretations on card (rhs swtich on machine) and gauges 8-10
f+b body: cast on 82 needles, knit until 30” (180 rows)sleeves: cast on 60 needles, knit until 22” long (132 rows)turtleneck: cast on 108 needles, knit until 3.25”
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
gauge 8-10 (standard)
gauge
self4 ply mix: 2 ply candy cane polyamide (pink)2 ply spandex/viscose (mauve)
YARN source: Recycled, The RowYARN: 4 ply reclaim mix (see below)
YARN
model: Macie
garment description: Bodycon Turtleneck sweater
illustration
look: 2
construction notes
turtleneck collar: sew off method cast off at top, leave clean
sleeves: latch off and leave clean at cuff
hem: e-wrap cast on, leave clean
serge together
TUCK PATTERN:using punch card No. 2, create free-form pattern by switching between lengthened and normal interpretations on card (rhs swtich on machine) and gauges 8-10
f+b body: cast on 82 needles, knit until 30” (180 rows)sleeves: cast on 60 needles, knit until 22” long (132 rows)turtleneck: cast on 108 needles, knit until 3.25”
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
gauge 8-10 (standard)
gauge
self4 ply mix: 2 ply candy cane polyamide (pink)2 ply spandex/viscose (mauve)
YARN source: Recycled, The RowYARN: 4 ply reclaim mix (see below)
YARN
model:
garment description:
illustration
look:
construction notes
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
SPI :
RPI :
gauge
self
binding/facing
YARN source:YARN:
YARN
model:
garment description:
illustration
look:
construction notes
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
SPI :
RPI :
gauge
self
binding/facing
YARN source:YARN:
YARN
model: Molly
garment description: Wide neck, Blouson sleeve sweater
illustration
look: 3
construction notes
cuffs: use ribbing attachment on gauge 0
top sleeve tucking detail: using punch card no. 2, and plaiting attachment with hickory bamboo yarn
bottom hem: mock rib, every other needle
neckline: clean finish
CF rib details: 2 hand manipulated rib lines from bottom of CF neckline V to mock rib trim at bottom.
CHOKER: use ribbing attachment. finsihing: RHS= single crochet (2.5 needle) edge with four 4mm mother of pearl buttons. LHS= single crochet (2.5 needle) edge with four loops (4 chain stitches).
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
gauge 5 (standard)SPI : 8RPI : 12
gauge
SELFPerle Ctn (tobacco), single ply
COMBOTop sleeve detail: Perle Ctn (tobacco), Bamboo (hickory), single ply
YARN source: Silk City yarnsYARN: Perle Ctn (tobacco), Bamboo (hickory)
fabric
model: Molly
garment description: Full Length skirt with cut-out side panels
illustration
look: 3
construction notes
RHS contains faux-closure tab. LHS is actual closure
F+B panels sack lining for double weighted thickness and movement. Understich on inside seam
Hem: outer panel layer is longer, fold, press, and whipstitch close
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
threadCoats and Clark
closure1” Mother of pearl buttons (2)(found)
trim
selfLinen plainweave (Peach)
facingsame as self
interfacingPellon fusable P44FJAS
liningLinen plainweave (Persimmon)
bindingLinen plainweave (Persimmon)
fabric source: Recycled, JoAnn Fabricsfabric: Linen (peach, persimmon)
fabric
model: Molly
garment description: Full Length skirt with cut-out side panels
illustration
look: 3
construction notes
RHS contains faux-closure tab. LHS is actual closure
F+B panels sack lining for double weighted thickness and movement. Understich on inside seam
Hem: outer panel layer is longer, fold, press, and whipstitch close
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
threadCoats and Clark
closure1” Mother of pearl buttons (2)(found)
trim
selfLinen plainweave (Peach)
facingsame as self
interfacingPellon fusable P44FJAS
liningLinen plainweave (Persimmon)
bindingLinen plainweave (Persimmon)
fabric source: Recycled, JoAnn Fabricsfabric: Linen (peach, persimmon)
YARN
model: Katie
garment description: OTS Intarsia Sweater
illustration
look: 4
construction notes
body hem: 1” hand manipulated rib on every 3rd needlesleeve hem: 1” hand manipulated rib on every 3rd needle
neckline: knit double length with ribbing attachment (gauge 8) Sew on, then folded in half, hand whipstitched to inside neckline.
body side slits: 1” (height of ribbing)
intarsia: using custom Gaitskill punchcard. Tan yarn through carraige port A (background of design). Ivroy yarn through carraige port B (foreground of design)
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
selfgauge 4 (chunky)
rib necklinegauge 8 (standard ribbing attachment
gauge
selfCotton (ivory) 16 plyCotton (tan)16 ply
rib necklineCotton (ivory) 14 ply
YARN source: The RowYARN: Cotton (ivory) , Cotton (tan)
fabric
model: Katie
garment description: Wide Leg Trousers with pleats
illustration
look: 4
construction notes
closure: fly front zipper and button tab, hook and bar on inner tab
inseam side seam pockets (2)
WB: self facing, fold 1/4” and stitch in seam crease
pleating: front side pleats fold out ward. back side pleats are inverted
hem: fold 1/4”, fold 5” and stitch (visiable topstitch)
interfacing: used on WB facing only
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
threadCoats and Clark ####
closure1” Mother of pearl button (1)(found)
hook and bar (1)
9” std. zipper (Coats and Cark)(Rust)
trim
selfLinen plainweave (persimmon)
facingsame as self
interfacingPellon fusable P44FJAS
fabric source: JoAnn Fabricsfabric: Linen plainweave (persimmon)
YARN
model: Katie
garment description: OTS Intarsia Sweater
illustration
look: 4
construction notes
body hem: 1” hand manipulated rib on every 3rd needlesleeve hem: 1” hand manipulated rib on every 3rd needle
neckline: knit double length with ribbing attachment (gauge 8) Sew on, then folded in half, hand whipstitched to inside neckline.
body side slits: 1” (height of ribbing)
intarsia: using custom Gaitskill punchcard. Tan yarn through carraige port A (background of design). Ivroy yarn through carraige port B (foreground of design)
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
selfgauge 4 (chunky)
rib necklinegauge 8 (standard ribbing attachment
gauge
selfCotton (ivory) 16 plyCotton (tan)16 ply
rib necklineCotton (ivory) 14 ply
YARN source: The RowYARN: Cotton (ivory) , Cotton (tan)
fabric
model: Sarah
garment description: Coat Dress with belt
illustration
look: 5
construction notes
rib collar: fold knitted piece in half, bind at edges, attach to collar stand
HEM: stitch hem tape to edge. Fold up 2.5”, whipstitch
FACING: understitch on facing where poly meets linen lining
BELT: constructed in tube, top-stitched at 18” and 1/4”
backing the knit inset: sized and stitched onto flannel for reinforcement and size maintence
back inset knit intarsia: use custom “Gaitskill” punchcard
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
selfPoly Boucle (warm grey)
facingsame as self
liningLght. Wt. Linen (natural)
beltPoly Suede (warm grey)
welt pocketPoly Chenille (warm grey)
hem tape15 mm Mokuba tape 4693 (color 15)
knit inset backingCotton Flannel (cream)
threadCoats and Clark All-Purpose poly (NuGrey
fabric source: JoAnn Fabrics, Silk City Yarns, The Rowfabric: Poly Boucle (warm grey), Poly Chenille (grey), Lght.Wt. Linen (natural), Poly Suede (warm grey)
YARN combo
back panelgauge 6 (standard)SPI : 7RPI : 9.5
rib cuff/collargauge 4 (standard ribbing attachment)
gauge
back panelLinen (mushroom)/Ctn (caramel)=2 plyLinen (dune)/ Ctn (ivory)=2 ply
rib cuffLinen (mushroom)/Ctn (caramel)/ Ctn (ivory)= 3ply
rib collarLinen (mushroom)/Ctn (caramel)/ Ctn (ivory)= 3ply
FABRIC
model: Sarah
garment description: LS Baby Rib Jersey Dress
illustration
look 5:
construction notes
construct using serger 3 thread narrow overlock stitch
neckline/sleeve/hem: serge narrow folded hem finishing
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
selfBaby Rib Rayon Jersey (cream)
collarBalinese Handwoven cotton (natural)
threadCoats and Clark All-Purpose poly (Cream)
FABRIC source: JoAnn Fabrics, Dharma tradersFABRIC: Rib Rayon jersey (cream), Balinese Handwoven cotton (natural)
FABRIC
model: Sarah
garment description: LS Baby Rib Jersey Dress
illustration
look 5:
construction notes
construct using serger 3 thread narrow overlock stitch
neckline/sleeve/hem: serge narrow folded hem finishing
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
selfBaby Rib Rayon Jersey (cream)
collarBalinese Handwoven cotton (natural)
threadCoats and Clark All-Purpose poly (Cream)
FABRIC source: JoAnn Fabrics, Dharma tradersFABRIC: Rib Rayon jersey (cream), Balinese Handwoven cotton (natural)01 knitted dress 02 sweater jumpsuit 03 sweater skirt ens
04 sweater trouser ens 05 intarsia coat ens
process
What had been a love of knitwear for aesthetic and functional purposes took on new meaning as I connected with sweaters as garments that grow. As rows are layered one after the other, knitwear process mirrors layers of life and time as they progress within peoples and environments.
I also found significance in texture experimentation with knitted garments. The bumps, circles, and lines of tucking stitches can be manipulated to mimic the same forms present in the Adena tablets. Even classic cables mirror the iconography of the Serpent Mound burial site and various depictions of birds and humanoid faces found in ancient artifacts. I eventually felt called to depict a certain tablet (the Gaitskill) in a very literal way through intarsia. Using tonal colors, the comet and hand iconographs were imprinted onto one coat and sweater, displaying the subtle presence of archaic legacy in modern times.
All knitwear fibers used in this collection are plant derived and intentionally devoid of animal origin, as a personal commitment to vegan fashion.
k n i t t e x t i l e d e v e l o p m e n t
01 knitted dress
02 sweater jumpsuit
03 sweater skirt ens
04 sweater trouser ens
05 intarsia coat
R ED I S THE THREAD
Submission for 2015 CFDA Scholarship.
The Peruvian concept of earth goddess, Pachamama, is a fierce yet nuturing driving force of nature. Studies of Ecofeminism, indigenous Peruvian dress, and natrual textures inspired a collection that exudes gentle power and mystical expression of feminity. Exploring feminine energy as a creative connective force that binds the planet together, high-detail surface designs are explored as a metaphor for the interweaving of all life on earth.
t h e s i s h i g h l i g h t Mu l t i v o ca l i sm i n Swea t e r 02
Much of the conceptual research for my thesis surrounded studying the clay tablets from the Adena people of prehistoric Ohio. Through both careful personal examination and anthropological research, I developed a nuanced relationship with the iconographic style and varying interpretations of their symbology. Adena tablet iconography is believed to convey multiple meanings when flipped alternate orientations, and different symbols lie in the negative as well as positive space. This inspired me to design Sweater 02 with the possibility to be worn frontwards, backwards, upside-down, and right-side up.
01
03
02
04
YARN
model:
garment description:
illustration
look:
construction notes
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
SPI :
RPI :
gauge
self
binding/facing
YARN source:YARN:
YARN
model:
garment description:
illustration
look:
construction notes
::: A Language Older �an Words ::: mcm
SPI :
RPI :
gauge
self
binding/facing
YARN source:YARN:
wilmington tablet
SER P ENT
The mythic presence of the serpent — a creature who symbolizes transformation and growth through the cycles of life — inspired a knitted and woven ensemble that visually demonstrates the transformation of an individual through the motif of a snake shedding its skin. The snake travels over the ground in an s-curve. Such serpentine waves can be connected to mathematical concepts such as sine frequencies, which are derived from tracking a single point in relation to the circle (perhaps the most rudimentary visual symbol of wholeness). The connection of these ideas within universal geometery and natural phenomena is meant to express change and transmutation as a fundamental part of becoming whole.
An open gauged coat softly mimics the shedded snakeskin in texture and color. Underneath is a wrap sweater top and bias draped skirt of linen.
All knitwear fibers from industry overstock
Coat: Silk/Mohair and Cotton blend Wrap Top: Cashmere Skirt: Linen
4 4 0 . 5 7 0 . 3 1 2 0 | M C M E Y E R 2 8 @ G M A I L . C O M
M A RY C L A R E M E Y E R