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L I V I N G W I T H

I N S O N O M A C O U N T Y

L I V I N G W I T H

I N S O N O M A C O U N T Y

A GUIDE FOR THE HOMEOWNERA GUIDE FOR THE HOMEOWNER

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Much of Sonoma County is considered ahigh hazard fire environment. Based onpast experience, this area possesses all

the ingredients necessary to support large, intense,and uncontrollable wildfires.

Within this hazardous environment, there areindividual houses, subdivisions, and entire com-munities. Many homes, however, would beunable to survive an intense wildfire. Since it isnot a question of “if” wildfires will occur but“when” they will occur, the likelihood of humanlife and property loss is great and growing.

Our ability to live more safely in this fireenvironment greatly depends upon our use of“pre-fire activities.” Pre-fire activities are actionstaken before a wildfire occurs which improve thesurvivability of people and homes. They includeproper vegetation management around the home(known as defensible space), use of fire resistantbuilding materials, appropriate subdivisiondesign, and other measures. Research clearlydemonstrates that pre-fire activities save lives andproperty.

In 1999, Fire SafeSonoma adopted The LivingWith Fire program forSonoma County. Fire SafeSonoma is a non-profit501(c)3 corporation com-prised of fire preventionprofessionals, public agencyrepresentatives, businessowners and concernedresidents who recognize theurgent need to deal with theissue of catastrophic wildfirein Sonoma County. Ourmission is to raise publicawareness of wildfire relatedproblems, such as loss of lifeand property, and devastationof wildlife habitat and thenatural environment as well asprovide education thatpromotes fire safety andprevention. For more informa-tion about Fire Safe Sonomacall (707) 565-1152.

LIVING IN A HIGH HAZARDFIRE ENVIRONMENT

L I V I N G W I T H

The pre-fire activities implemented by this homeowner included a green and well maintainedlandscape, reduction of wildland vegetation around the perimeter of the property, a fire resistantroof, and a good access road with a turnaround area. The charred surroundings of the homeshow that these pre-fire activities effectively protected it when wildfire hit.

THE “WHY WE’RE WORRIED ABOUT WILDFIRE” EQUATION

THE “LIVING WITH FIRE” PROJECT

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Fire is anatural part

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andrangelands

were burninglong beforethere was aSanta Rosa,Petaluma,Sonoma orGlen Ellen.

+ +With more

people usingour wildlands,

there is agreater

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+Today’swildfirescan burnintenselyand be

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Manyhomes arebuilt and

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Potential for:• Greater

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propertylosses

• Moredamageto naturalresources

• Moremoneyneededforfirefighting.

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Montana artist Monty Dolack’spainting of wildfire in theurban interface relects thethreat facing homeownerswho live in fire country.

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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT DEFENSIBLE SPACE

More and more homes are being built in high fire hazardenvironments.

In the 1980’s, the term “defensible space” wascoined to describe vegetation management practicesaimed at reducing the wildfire threat to homes. Thisarticle responds to some of the commonly askedquestions about defensible space.

WHAT IS DEFENSIBLE SPACE?Defensible space is the area between a house and anoncoming wildfire where the vegetation has been modifiedto reduce the wildfire threat and to provide an opportunityfor firefighters to effectively defend the house. Some-times, a defensible space is simply a homeowner’s properlymaintained backyard.

WHAT IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEENVEGETATION AND WILDFIRE THREAT?Many people do not view the plants growing on theirproperty as a threat. But in terms of wildfire, the vegeta-tion adjacent to their homes can have considerableinfluence upon the survivability of their houses. Allvegetation, including plants native to the area as well asornamental plants, is potential wildfire fuel. If vegetation isproperly modified and maintained, a wildfire can beslowed, the length of flames shortened, and the amount ofheat reduced, all of which assist firefighters in defend-ing the home against an oncoming wildfire.

THE FIRE DEPARTMENT IS SUPPOSEDTO PROTECT MY HOUSE, SO WHYBOTHER WITH DEFENSIBLE SPACE?Some individuals incorrectly assume that afire engine will be parked in their drivewayand firefighters will be actively defendingtheir homes if a wildfire approaches. Duringa major wildfire, it is unlikely there will beenough firefighting resources available todefend every home. In these instances,firefighters will likely select homes they canmost safely and effectively protect. Even withadequate resources, some wildfires may beso intense that there may be little firefighterscan do to prevent a house from burning.The key is to reduce fire intensity as wildfirenears the house. This can be accomplishedby reducing the amount of flammablevegetation surrounding a home. Consequently, the mostimportant person in protecting a house from wildfire is nota firefighter, but the property owner. And it’s the actiontaken by the owner before the wildfire occurs (such asproper landscaping) that is most critical.

DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIRE A LOT OFBARE GROUND IN MY LANDSCAPE?No. Unfortunately, many people have this misconception.While bare ground is certainly effective in reducing thewildfire threat, it is unnecessary and unacceptable due toappearance, soil erosion, and other reasons. Many homeshave attractive, well vegetated landscapes that also serveas effective defensible space.

DOES CREATING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE REQUIREANY SPECIAL SKILLS OR EQUIPMENT?No. For the most part, creating a defensible spaceemploys routine gardening and landscape maintenancepractices such as pruning, mowing, weeding, plantremoval, appropriate plant selection, and irrigation.Equipment needed includes common tools like a chainsaw, pruning saw, pruning shears, loppers, weed-eater,shovel, and a rake. A chipper, compost bin, or a largerented trash dumpster may be useful in disposing ofunwanted plant material.

HOW BIG IS AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE?Defensible space size is not the same for everyone, butvaries by slope and type of wildland vegetation growingnear the house. See the article entitled “Creating AnEffective Defensible Space” for specific information.

DOES DEFENSIBLE SPACE MAKE A DIFFERENCE?Yes. Investigations of homes threatened by wildfireindicate that houses with an effective defensible space aremuch more likely to survive a wildfire. Furthermore, homeswith both an effective defensible space and a nonflam-mable roof (composition shingles, tile, metal, etc.) aremany times more likely to survive a wildfire than thosewithout defensible space and flammable roofs (woodshakes or shingles). Appropriate roofing materialsand defensive space give firefighters the opportunityto effectively and safely defend the home.

DOES HAVING A DEFENSIBLE SPACE GUARAN-TEE MY HOUSE WILL SURVIVE A WILDFIRE?No. Under extreme conditions, almost any house canburn. But having a defensible space will significantlyimprove the odds of your home surviving a wildfire.

WHY DOESN’T EVERYONE LIVING IN A HIGH WILD-FIRE HAZARD AREA CREATE A DEFENSIBLE SPACE?The specific reasons for not creating a defensible spaceare varied. Some individuals believe “it won’t happen tome”. Others think the costs (time, money, effort, loss ofprivacy, etc.) outweigh the benefits. Some fail to imple-ment defensible space practices simply because ofmisconceptions or lack of knowledge.

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THE THREE R’s OF DEFENSIBLE SPACEThis technique involves the elimination of entire plants, particu-larly trees and shrubs, from the site. Examples of removal arecutting down a dead tree or cutting out a flammable shrub.

The removal of plant parts, such as branches or leaves, consti-tute reduction. Examples of reduction are pruning dead woodfrom a shrub, removing low tree branches, and mowing driedgrass.

Replacement is substituting less flammable plants for morehazardous vegetation. Removal of a dense stand of flammableshrubs and planting an irrigated, well maintained flower bed isan example of replacement.

Removal

Reduction

Replacement

HOW DO I CHANGE THE VEGETATIONON MY PROPERTY TO REDUCE THEWILDFIRE THREAT?

The objective of defensible space is to reducethe wildfire threat to a home by changing thecharacteristics of the adjacent vegetation.Defensible space practices include:• Increasing the moisture content of

vegetation.• Decreasing the amount of flammable

vegetation.• Shortening plant height.• Altering the arrangement of plants.This is accomplished through the “Three R’s ofDefensible Space.” The article “Creating AnEffective Defensible Space” provides detailedinformation about changing vegetation charac-teristics for defensible space.

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30feet 100feet 100feet

100100feet 150150feet 150150feet++

3030feet 100100feet 150150feet++

CREATING AN EFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE*...A Step-by-Step Guide

Are you worried about the wildfire threat to your home, but aren’t sure how to get startedin making your home defensible? Follow these six steps to an effective defensible space...

STEP ONE: HOW BIG IS ANEFFECTIVE DEFENSIBLE SPACE?

The size of the defensible space area isusually expressed as a distance extending out-ward from the sides of the house. This distancevaries by the type of wildland vegetation grow-ing near the house and the steepness of theterrain.

On the “Recommended Defensible SpaceDistance” chart presented below, find the vegeta-

tion type and percent slope which best describesthe area where your house is located. Then findthe recommended defensible space distance foryour situation.

For example, if your property is surroundedby wildland grasses, and is located on flat land,your recommended defensible space distancewould extend 30 feet from the sides of the house.If your house is on a 25% slope and the adjacentwildland vegetation is dense tall brush, yourrecommended defensible space distance would

1) Find the percent slope which best describes your property.2) Find the type of vegetation which best describes the wildland plants growing on or near your property.3) Locate the number in feet corresponding to your slope and vegetation. This is your recommended defensible space distance.

Please note the recommendations presented in this article are suggestions made by local firefightersexperienced in protecting homes from wildfire. They do not take precedence over local ordinances.CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL FIRE OR PLANNING DEPARTMENT FOR SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS.

Wildland grasses, weeds, and widelyscattered shrubs with grass under-story.

Includes shrub dominant areas of man-zanita, chaparral, or coastal scrub.

Includes forested areas. If substantial grassor shrub understory is present, use thosevalues shown under “shrubs.”

DEFENSIBLE SPACERECOMMENDED DISTANCES—STEEPNESS OF SLOPE

VEG

ETATI

ON

TYPE

30-30-5050feet 100100feet 100100feet++

be 150 feet or more.If the recommended distance goes beyond

your property boundaries, contact the adjacentproperty owner and work cooperatively oncreating a defensible space. The effectiveness ofdefensible space increases when multiple prop-erty owners work together. The local assessor’soffice can provide assistance if the owners ofadjacent properties are unknown. Do not workon someone else’s property without theirpermission.

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Continuous, denseuninterruptedvegetation.

Patchy vegetationor widely spacedindividual plants.

Remove all standing dead trees from within the defen-sible space area.

Remove all down dead trees within the defensible spacearea if they have recently fallen and are not yet embed-ded into the ground. Downed trees that are embeddedinto soil and which cannot be removed without soildisturbance should be left in place. Remove all exposedbranches from an embedded downed dead tree.

Remove all dead shrubs from within the defensiblespace area.

Once grasses and wildflowers have dried out or “cured,”mow to 3 inches within the defensible space area.

Reduce thick layers of pine needles to a depth of twoinches. Do not remove all needles. Take care not todisturb the “duff” layer (dark area at the groundsurface where needles are decomposing) if present.Remove dead leaves, twigs, cones, and branches.

Remove all dead leaves, branches, twigs, and needlesstill attached to living trees and shrubs to height of 15feet above ground. Remove all debris that accumulateson the roof and in rain gutters on a routine basis (atleast once annually).

Locate firewood and other combustible debris (woodscraps, grass clippings, leaf piles, etc.) at least 30 feetuphill from the house.

DEAD FUEL TYPE

STANDING DEAD TREE

DOWNED DEAD TREE

DEAD SHRUBS

DRIED GRASSES ANDWILDFLOWERS

DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES,BRANCHES, CONES(ON THE GROUND)

DEAD NEEDLES, LEAVES,BRANCHES, AND TWIGS(OTHER THAN ON THEGROUND)

FIREWOOD AND OTHERCOMBUSTIBLE DEBRIS

RECOMMENDED PRACTICE

TYPES OF DEAD VEGETATION AND RECOMMENDED PRACTICE

Note: Separation distances are measured betweencanopies (outermost branches) and not between trunks.

For example, if your home is located on a 10% slopeand the brush is four feet tall, the separation distancewould be two times the shrub height or eight feet.The recommended separation distance can be accom-plished by removing plants or through pruning thatreduces the diameter or height of shrubs (shorterheight means less separation is needed).

Recommended SeparationDistances for Shrubs

For areas with dense brush, the recommendedseparation distance is dependant upon shrubheight and steepness of slope. Specific recom-mendations are presented below.

Temporarily mark the recommended dis-tance with flagging or strips of cloth tied toshrubs, trees, or stakes around your home. Thiswill be your defensible space area.

STEP TWO: IS THERE ANY DEADVEGETATION WITHIN THE RECOMMENDEDDEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA?

Dead vegetation includes dead trees andshrubs, dead branches lying on the ground or stillattached to living plants, dried grass, flowers andweeds, dropped leaves and needles, and firewoodstacks. In most instances, dead vegetation shouldbe removed from the recommended defensiblespace area. A description of the types of deadvegetation you’re likely to encounter and therecommended actions are presented below.

STEP THREE: IS THERE A CON-TINUOUS DENSE COVER OF SHRUBS OR TREESPRESENT WITHIN THE RECOMMENDED DEFEN-SIBLE SPACE AREA?

Sometimes wildland plants can occur as anuninterrupted layer of vegetation as opposed tobeing patchy or widely spaced individual plants.The more continuous and dense the vegetation, thegreater the wildfire threat. If this situation ispresent within your defensible space area, youshould “break-it-up” by providing a separationbetween plants or small groups of plants.

Not only are steep slopes often consideredhigh wildfire areas, they are also highly erodible.When removing shrubs and trees from steepslopes, keep soil disturbance to a minimum. Also,it may be necessary to replace flammable vegeta-tion with other plant materials to prevent exces-sive soil erosion.

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Note: Separation distances aremeasured between canopies (outermost branches) and not betweentrunks. For example, if your house issituated on a 30% slope, the separa-tion of tree canopies within yourdefensible space should be 20 feet.Creating separation between treecanopies can be accomplishedthrough tree removal.

STEP FOUR: ARE THERE LADDER FUELS PRESENT WITHIN THERECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLE SPACE AREA?

Vegetation is often present at varying heights, similar to the rungs of a ladder.Under these conditions, flames from fuels burning at ground level, such as a thicklayer of pine needles, can be carried to shrubs which can ignite still higher fuelslike tree branches. Vegetation that allows a fire to move from lower growingplants to taller ones isreferred to as “ladder fuel.”The ladder fuel problemcan be corrected byproviding a separationbetween the vegetationlayers.

Within the defensiblespace area, a verticalseparation of three timesthe height of the lower fuellayer is recommended.

For example, if ashrub growing adjacent toa large pine tree is threefeet tall, the recommendedseparation distance wouldbe nine feet. This could beaccomplished by removingthe lower tree branches,reducing the height of theshrub, or both. The shrubcould also be removed.

For forested areas, the recom-mended amount of separationbetween tree canopies is deter-mined by steepness of slope. Thespecific recommendations arepresented here. Separationdistances are measured betweencanopies (outer most branches)and not between trunks.

Recommended Separation DistancesBetween Tree Canopies

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THE LEAN, CLEAN, AND GREEN CHECKLIST❏ Emphasize the use of low growing herbaceous (non-woody) plants that are kept green during the fire season

through irrigation if necessary. Herbaceous plants include lawn, clover, a variety of groundcovers, beddingplants, bulbs, perennial flowers, and conservation grasses.

❏ Emphasize use of mulches, rock, and non-combustible hard surfaces (concrete sidewalks, brick patios, andasphalt driveways).

❏ Deciduous ornamental trees and shrubs are acceptable if they are kept green and free of dead plant material,ladder fuels are removed, and individual plants or groups of plants are arranged so that adjacent wildlandvegetation cannot convey a fire through them to the structure. Shorter deciduous shrubs are preferred.

❏ Minimize the use of ornamental coniferous shrubs and trees such as juniper, monterey pine and tall exoticgrasses such as pampas grass.

❏ Where permitted, most wildland shrubs and trees should be removed from this zone and replaced with moredesirable alternatives (see first box). Individual specimens or small groups of wildland shrubs and trees canbe retained so long as they are kept healthy and free of dead wood, are pruned to reduce the amount of fueland height, and ladder fuels are removed.

❏ For some areas substantial removal of wildland vegetation may not be allowed. In these instances, wildlandvegetation should conform to the recommendations presented in steps 2 through 4. Please become familiarwith local requirements before removal of wildland vegetation.

❏ Tree limbs within 10 feet of a chimney, encroaching on powerlines, or touching the house should be removed.

STEP FIVE: IS THERE AN AREA ATLEAST 30 FEET WIDE SURROUNDING YOURHOUSE THAT IS “LEAN, CLEAN, AND GREEN”?The area immediately adjacent to your house is particu-larly important in terms of an effective defensible space.It is also the area that is usually landscaped. Within anarea extending at least 30 feet from the house, thevegetation should be kept....

• LEAN—small amounts of flammable vegetation,• CLEAN—no accumulation of dead vegetation or

other flammable debris, and• GREEN—plants are healthy and green during the

fire season.

The “Lean, Clean, and Green Zone Checklist” will helpyou evaluate the area immediately adjacent to yourhouse.

STEP SIX: IS THE VEGETATIONWITHIN THE RECOMMENDED DEFENSIBLESPACE AREA MAINTAINED ON A REGULARBASIS?Keeping your defensible space effective is a continualprocess. At least annually, review these defensible spacesteps and take action accordingly. An effective defen-sible space can be quickly diminished through neglect.

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HOME IGNITION ZONE(The home plus 10ft distance)

It’s the “little things” that will endanger your home. Just a little emberlanding on a little pile of flammable material will burn it. Spend amorning searching out and getting rid of those flammable little thingsoutside and your home will be much safer.

Find out more ways to make your hom

DEFENSIBLE SPACE ZONE (100 fe

Text and artwork this page by ButteFireSafe.org and FireSafeHelp

Burning embers landing on wood shake roofs are one of theleading factors for losing your home to a wildfire. Replaceyour wood shake roof with non-flammable (Class-A) roofingmaterials such as asphalt shingles, tile, or metal.

1. Keep your rain gutters and roof cleanof all flammable material.

2. Get rid of dry grass, brush and otherflammable materials around your home -and don’t forget leaves, pine needles andbark walkways. Replace with well main-tained (watered) landscape vegetation,green lawn and landscape rocks.

3. Clear all flammable materials from your deck. This includes brooms,stacked wood and easily ignitable patio furniture. Also enclose or board upthe area under your deck to keep it from becoming a fuel bed for hotembers.

4. Move woodpiles and garbage cansaway from the home 30 feet or more.

5. Use fine mesh metal screen (1/4") orless to cover eaves, roof and foundationvents to prevent embers from entering.

6. Inspect and clean your chimney everyyear. Trim away branches within 10 feet.Install a spark arrestor with 1/2 inch meshscreen.

7. Got a propane tank? Get rid of anyflammable materials within 10 feet of itand, if possible, position it at least 30 feetfrom any structures.

8. Window screens should be metal notplastic or other flammable material.

1⁄2” mesh screen

Your “defensible space” is the area that is a minimum of 100 feet from yourhome (as required under the State Public Resources Code 4291 or other localordinances). This is the area where you’ve modified the landscape to allow yourhouse to survive on its own-greatly improving the odds for firefighters who aredefending your home.

If your home is on a slope or subject to high winds, extending the distancebeyond 100 feet is prudent.

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WILDFIRE FUELREDUCTION ZONE(The outlying area beyond the required defensible space)

Getting rid of the undergrowth and thinning out densely-crowdedsmaller trees in this outlying area will reduce fire intensity and slow thespread of a fire moving toward your home. Defensible space increasesthe odds of your home’s survival.

Experts recommend a minimum of 10 feet of spacing (on level ground)between individual trees and 2X the height for shrubs measured at thecrown (widest part) of the tree or shrub. You will need to increase spacingeven more on slopes.

Remember to plan for trees and shrubs at their full mature size whenplanning minimum crown to crown separation.

It’s possible, depending upon the size of your property, that you will belimited by our property boundary and unable to complete the fire safemeasures identified in zones 2 and 3. If this happens, talk with yourneighbors and ask their cooperation. A safer home means a safer neighbor-hood for everyone.

me fire safe: www. firesafesonoma.org

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Fire “climbs” neighboring trees-don’t give it a ladder thatreaches from the low to thehigh. Limb live trees up 10 feetas measured from the uphillside.

Reduce density by giving brushand shrubs more space-ideallythey should be about 10 feetapart from one another onlevel ground.

Create a Defensible Space Zone by keeping in mind the three R’s of defensible space:

This technique involves the elimination of entire plants, particularly trees andshrubs, from the site. Examples of removal are cutting down a dead tree orcutting out a flammable shrub.

The removal of plant parts, such as branches or leaves, constitute reduction.Examples of reduction are pruning dead wood from a shrub, removing low treebranches, and mowing dried grass.

Replacement is substituting less flammable plants for more hazardous vegetation.Removal of a dense stand of flammable shrubs and planting an irrigated, wellmaintained flower bed is an example of replacement.

Removal

Reduction

Replacement

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“When a wildfire comes through your neighbor-hood, could your home survive on its own?”

A dramatic question, but one we need to considerwhen living in an environment where wildfire is athreat. Firescaping is landscape design thatreduces house and property vulnerability towildfire. The goal is to develop a landscape with adesign and choice of plants that offers the bestprotection and enhances the property The ideal isto surround the house with things that are lesslikely to burn.

It is imperative when building homes in wildfire-prone areas that fire safety be a major factor inlandscape design. Appropriate manipulation of thelandscape can make a significant contributiontoward wildfire survival.

VEGETATIVE FUEL HAZARDS

Vegetative fuels include living and dead native vegeta-tion materials. The amount of heat energy releasedduring a wildland fire is defined by the amount,arrangement and rate of combustion of the vegetativefuels. Vegetative fuel flame lengths can exceed 100 feetand the radiated heat can ignite combustible materialsfrom distances of 100 feet or more. Winds can carrylive fire brands for several miles.

Firescape integrates traditional landscape functionsand a design that reduces the threat from wildfire. Itdoes not need to look much different from a tradi-tional design. In addition to meeting a homeowner’saesthetic desires and functional needs such asentertaining, playing, storage and erosion control-firescape also includes vegetation modificationtechniques, planting for fire safety, defensible spaceprincipals and use of fire safety zones.

Mitigation of wildfire hazards focuses on breakingup the continuity of horizontal and vertical fuels.Additional distance between landscape plants isrequired on slopes.

FIRESCAPE - FIRE SAFE LANDSCAPE DESIGNREMEMBER TO PROVIDE SEPARATION & SPACING

Through proper plant selection, placement andmaintenance, we can diminish the possibility ofignition, lower fire intensity, and reduce howquickly a fire spreads, increasing a home’ssurvivability.

In firescaping, plant selection is primarily determinedby the plant’s ability to reduce the wildfire threat. Otherconsiderations may be important such as appearance,ability to hold the soil in place, and wildlife habitatvalue. The traditional foundation planting ofjunipers is not a viable solution in firescape design.Minimize use of evergreen shrubs within 30 feet of astructure, because junipers, other conifers and broad-leaf evergreens contain oils, resins and waxes thatmake these plants burn with great intensity.

Firefighters call junipers the gasoline plant!

Use ornamental grasses and berries sparingly becausethey also can be highly flammable. Choose “firesmart” plants. They tend to be low growing, have ahigh moisture content, and have stems and leavesthat are NOT resinous, oily or waxy. Deciduous treesare generally more fire resistant than evergreensbecause they have a higher moisture content when inleaf, but a lower fuel volume when dormant.

Placement and maintenance of trees and shrubs is asimportant as actual plant selection. When planningtree placement in the landscape, remember theirsize at maturity

Ornamental specimen trees can be used within 30feet of structures if pruned properly, are wellirrigated and separated from other trees. Keep treelimbs at least 10 feet from chimneys, power linesand structures.

Firewise design uses driveways, lawns, walkways,patios, parking areas, areas with inorganicmulches, and fences constructed of nonflammablematerials such as rock, brick or cement to reducefuel loads and create fuel breaks. Fuel breaks arevital components in every firescape design. Waterfeatures, pools, ponds or streams can also be fuelbreaks. Areas where wildland vegetation has beenthinned or replaced with less flammable plants arethe traditional fuel break. Remember, while bareground is an effective fuel break, it is not recom-mended as a firescape element due to aesthetic,soil erosion and other concerns.

A home located on a brushy site above a south orwest facing slope will require more extensivewildfire safety landscape planning than a housesituated on a flat lot with little vegetation around it.

Boulders and rocks become fire retardant elementsin a design. Whether a site can be irrigated willgreatly influence location of hardscape (concrete,asphalt, wood decks, etc.), plant selection andplacement.

Prevailing winds, seasonal weather, local firehistory, and characteristics of native vegetationsurrounding the site are additional important consid-erations.

The 30 feet closest to a structure will be the highestwater use area in the fire safe landscape. This is anarea where highly flammable fuels are kept to aminimum and plants are kept green throughout thefire season.

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Fire-Wise Plant Material for Sonoma CountyAlthough there are no fireproof plant materials, the following is a list of some firewise plants that can be usedin landscaping for fire prevention. Landscape maintenance is far more important to fire prevention than theselection of plant materials. When planning your landscape, use the characteristics of firewise-plants alongwith site characteristics such as slope, aspect, hardiness zone and amount of precipitation to choose plantmaterial for your site.

TREES common nameValued nativesAcer macrophyllum Big Leaf MapleAlnus rhombifolia White AlderCornus nuttalli Pacific DogwoodPlatanus racemosa OaksQuercus spp. OakSequoia sempervirens Coast Redwood

Ornamental Garden Trees:Acer spp. MapleArbutus unedo Strawberry BushCercis occidentalis Western RedbudCercocarpus betuloides Mountain IronwoodCitus ssp. CitrusFagus spp. BeechFeijoa sellowiana Pineapple GuavaFraxinus spp AshGleditsia tricanthos Honey LocustMacadamia hybrids Macadamia NutMetrosideros excelsus New Zealand XmasMyoporum spp. MyoporumPistacia chinensis Chinese PistachePittosorum spp. Mock OrangeRhus lancea African SumacRobinia pseudoaccacia Locust, BlackSchinus molle California PepperSchinus terebinthifolius Brazilian Pepper

SHRUBSNative Wildland PlantsCarpenteria californica Bush AnenomeCeonothus (some) spp. Wild LilacDendromecon rigida Bush PoppyGarrya app. Silk TasselHeteromeles arbutifolia Toyon, Christmas BerryLavatera aassurgentiflora Malva RoseMahonia repens Creeping MahoniaPunus lyonii Catalina CherryRhamnus spp. Buckthorn/CoffeeberryRhus integrifolia Lemonade BerryRibes sanguineum Red Flower CurrantSolanum umbellifeum Nightshade, Blue Watch

Domestic Garden ShrubsBrugmansia spp. Angel’s TrumpetBuddlein spp. Butterfly BushConolvus cneorum Bush Morning GloryCotoneaster congestus LikianoCotoneaster horizontalis Rock CotoneasterCotoneaster microphyllus Rockspray CotoneasterCotoneaster dammeri Bearberry CotoneasterEchium spp. Echium or PriedrotEscallonia spp. EscalloniaLigustrum japonicum Japanese PrivetLigustrum lucidum Glossy PrivetLigustrum texanum Texas PrivetNerium oleander Oleander

Excerpted in part from “Pyropytic Vs. Fire Resistant Plants”by Ray Moritz & Pavel Svhra

SHRUBS common nameDomestic Garden ShrubsOsteospermum fruiticosum Trailing African DaisyNolina spp. Nolina (related to Yucca)Pittosporum crassifolium Dwarf KaroPittosporum tobira Mock OrangePunica granatum PomegranatePyracantha “Santa Cruz” FirethornRaphiolepis spp. India HawthornRhamnus alaterus Italian BuckthornRhododendron (Azalea spp.) Rhododendrons & AzaleasSimmondsia chinensis JojobaThymus praecox arcticus Creeping ThymeTrachelospermum jasminoides Star JasmineVinca spp.* Periwinkle

*Not recommended for riparian areasYucca spp. Yucca

PERENNIALSAchillea spp. YarrowAgapanthus spp. Lily of the NileBergenia spp. BergeniaCentaurea cineraria Dusty MillerCentranthus rubber Red ValerianCoreopsis spp. CoreopsisDietes bicolor African IrisDietes vegeta Fortnight LilyErigeron karvinskaianus Mexican DaisyGeranium spp. GeraniumHemerocallis hybrids DaylilyHesperaloe Red YuccaHeuchera parviflora Island Alum RootIris spp. IrisKniphofia Red Hot PokerLantana montevidensis LantanaLavandula perzil Sea LavenderMimulus spp. Monkey FlowerSisyrinchium spp. Blue-Eyed GrassesStachys byzantina Lamb’s EarStrelitzia reginae Bird of ParadiseTulbaghia violacea Society GarlicZanteedeschia aethiopicca Common CallaZauschneria californica California Fuchsia

GROUND COVERSSucculentsDelosperma “Alba” White Trailing IceplantEcheveria spp. Hens & ChicksSedum confusum Stonecrop

Non-SucculentsAchillea tomentosa Woolly YarrowAjuga reptans Carpet BugleArmeria maritime Common ThriftCoprosma kirkii Creeping CoprosmaDuchesnea indica Mock StrawberryFestuca rubra Creeping Red fescueLiriope gigantean Giant Turf LilyMyoporum parvifolium Myoporum

Use well-irrigated perennials here. Another choice islow growing or non-woody deciduous plants. Lawnis soothing visually, and is also practical as awildfire safety feature. But extensive areas of turfgrass may not be right for everyone. Some goodalternatives include clover, groundcovers andconservation grasses that are kept green during thefire season through irrigation. Rock mulches aregood choices. Patios, masonry or rock planters areexcellent fuel breaks and increase wildfire safety. Becreative with boulders, riprap, dry streambeds andsculptural inorganic elements.

When designing a landscape for fire safety remem-ber less is better. Simplify visual lines and group-ings. A firesafe landscape lets plants and gardenelements reveal their innate beauty by leaving spacebetween plants and groups of plants. In firescaping,the open spaces are more important than the plants.

INVASIVE PLANTS AND WEEDS

An invasive weed is any species that is, or is liableto become detrimental, or destructive to nativeecosystems, and for purposes of this publication -represent an increased FIRE Hazard! They areaggressive, competitive, and difficult to control oreradicate. They compete with native plants and oftenforce them out. Invasive plants threaten the ecologi-cal integrity of our precious wildlands. Manyinvasive weeds and trees are extremely fire proneand can increase the fire threat to your home andproperty if not removed.

You may be familiar with some of the more com-mon invasive plants such as French and ScotchBroom; Yellow, Italian and Purple Distaff; StarThistle; Barbed Goat Grass; Cape Ivy; MedusaHead; Pampas Grass; and Acacia to name a few.

Surprisingly, our native Douglas Fir is becoming aproblem as it is vigorously reproducing and israpidly becoming one of the most fire prone conifersin Sonoma County.

Invasive plants and weeds are opportunistic andoften establish themselves in disturbed soils alongnewly graded drives, roads and construction sites.

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Choose a firewise location if you areconstructing a new home.

Survivable Space is similar to Defensible Space,except it emphasizes the house surviving withoutsignificant firefighter or homeowner action. Itcombines Defensible Space with ignition resistantconstruction methods and materials, many of whichcan be retrofitted to existing homes.

Ignition Resistant Construction+ Defensible Space= Survivable Space!

Slope of Terrain: Be sure to build on the mostlevel portion of the land, since fire spreads morerapidly on even minor slopes. Avoid building onmid-slopes and away from ridge tops, canyons andareas between high points on a ridge.

Locating a Home on your lot or acreage: Setyour single-story structure at least 30 feet backfrom any ridge or slope; increase distance if yourhome will be higher than one story. Try not tobuild on mid-slope sites.

Set back from the Property Line Build yourhome at least 30 feet from the property line soadequate defensible space can be established. Ifbuilding on acreage, consider a minimum setbackof 100 feet or more.

Firewise Construction ChecklistWildfire and your home ignition Zone – Is your home ignition prone?How a house is designed, where it is built, materials used in its construction, landscaping, and access all influence survivability during a wildfire.Presented below are recommendations and illustrations that will make a home much easier to defend and will improve its chances of surviving awildfire with or without direct firefighting intervention.

Consider or add ignition resistantconstruction elements for your newor existing home.

Design, build or maintain a firewise structureutilizing passive ignition resistant measures. Useor replace construction materials that are ignition-resistant whenever possible. Use constructionmethods that resist ignition and fire infiltration.

Roof: For new and replacement roof construction,use only materials such as Class-A asphaltshingles, slate, clay tile, metal or concrete products.Constructing a fire-resistant sub-roof can addadditional protection. Avoid use of valleys andgutters where flammable debris can collect.

Siding / Exterior Wall Facing: Use fire resistiveexterior wall systems and materials that are at least“one hour rated,” materials that will hold back firefor a minimum of one hour. Stucco or masonry, orignition resistant siding panels or boards are goodchoices. They are much better than wood, woodshingles, aluminum or vinyl, all of which arereadily ignitable and/or fail quickly. Underlaymentof gypsum board combined with ignition resistantsiding adds even greater protection.

Doors Provide at least two ground level doors foreasy and safe exit and at least two means of escape(i.e., doors or windows) in each room so thateveryone has two ways out. Exterior doors shouldbe “one hour rated,” doors that will hold back firefor a minimum of one hour.

Be sure to provide metal thresholds and installdoors to be flush so burning embers cannot blowunder them.

Garage Doors can also be vulnerable to failure byfire. Choose a steel clad model.

Window Materials and size are important. Smallerpanes hold up better in their frames than largerones. Double or triple pane especially with tem-pered glass and Low-E reflectivity areeven more effective heat barriers thansingle pane glass. Avoid use of plasticwindow framing and use metal, notplastic screening.

Soffits, Eaves, Decks, Balconies and Overhangs.Soffit SOFF it. n. “The exposed underside of anyoverhead structural component of a building, suchas eaves, balconies, decks, beams, arches, cornicesand lintels.”

Open Eaves, Decks and Overhangs can all act asheat traps and make the building more vulnerable toflying embers and brands and intense heat fromnearby fire.

Eaves Enclosed - box in soffits and under eaveareas with “one-hour” rated material.

Decks can act as heat traps and can be ignited bywind driven flying embers and fire brands. Useskirting to enclose or box underside of deck with“one hour” rated covering.

Enclose the underside of balconies and above-ground decks with fire resistant materials.

Composite Lumber: Many different companiesmanufacture composite lumber, each with its ownproprietary formula and structural design. It isprimarily used in outdoor decks and railings. Itmay be in the form of solid boards or may containhollow areas. Composite lumber is a mix of plastic,wood binder and other ingredients that may provideignition resistance inferior to wood products. Whenburning, composite materials tend to drip flamingliquefied plastic that “pools” on the surface belowand continues to burn intensely. The State FireMarshal’s Office has flammability test resultsavailable. As with wood decking, it is crucial toprotect the underside of any deck and keep cracksand crevices free of any debris.

Interior Residential Fire Sprinklers are impor-tant because they have proven to extinguishundetected fire when the structure is occupied orunoccupied.

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Interior residential fire sprinkles may extinguishfire originating from an exterior source, i.e. awildland fire where radiant, convective heat ordirect flame contact has caused structural failurethat allows fire intrusion into the building. Theymay also prevent a house fire from spreading tothe wildlands.

Shutters: Install non-flammable shutters onwindows. This is a particularly good measure forweekend homes that are not continuously occupiedbut is also appropriate for homes that are.

Vents: To prevent sparks from entering your homethrough vents, cover exterior soffit, attic, roof andunder floor vents with wire mesh no larger than 1/4inch mesh or less. Attic vents are not recommended.

Use of Plastic exterior building components suchas siding, decks, vents, skylights, gutters anddownspouts and certain window frames can meltand/or ignite and should not be used. Use metalcomponents where possible.

Gutters are best if eliminated completely. Utilizegravel filled French Drain under dripline instead.If gutters are necessary, maintain gutters and roofs(particularly valleys) clear of leaves and otherdebris. No Plastic!

Attachments include any structures connecteddirectly to your home such as decks, porches,balconies, fences, gates, breezeways or accessorybuildings.

Attachments can act as fuel bridges, or fire fuses!If an attachment to a home is notignition resistant, then the homemay be at risk.

If you choose to attach a fence to your home, usemasonry or metal, or distance as a protectivebarrier between it and the house. A wrought ironstyle gate separating a combustible fence mayprovide some protection.

Build an ignition resistant fence and gate. Usemetal when constructing a trellis and cover it withhigh-moisture, low flammability vegetation.

Exterior Vertical Structural Members such asCombustible Posts or Columns: Vertical membersthat support decks, balconies and overhangs thatare not protected by ground to deck skirting shouldbe clad with galvanized or copper sheathing to at

least 1 - 3-feet above ground OR built on concretefootings at least 1-foot above grade.

ACCESS

Identify at least two exit routes from your neigh-borhood. Design roads and drives for large emer-gency vehicles.

Construct roads or provide turnouts that allow two-way traffic.

Design bridges to carry heavy emergency vehicles,including bulldozers carried on large trucks.

Post clear road signs to show traffic restrictionssuch as dead-end roads and weight and heightlimitations.

Make sure dead-end roads and long driveways haveturnaround areas wide enough for emergencyvehicles. Clear turnouts along one-way roads.

Construct driveways to allow large emergencyequipment to reach your house.

Clear dry grass and flammable brush up to ten feetfrom roads and five feet from driveways. Retentionof mature trees along roadside OK.

Make sure that your street is named or numbered anda sign is visibly posted at each street intersection.

Make sure that your street name and number is notduplicated elsewhere in the county.

Post your home address in CONTRASTINGBOLD 4-inch letters at the beginning of yourdriveway or on your house if it is easily visible.

EMERGENCY WATER SUPPLY

Maintain an emergency water supply that meetsfire department standards through one of thefollowing:• A community water/hydrant system• A cooperative emergency water storage tank with

neighbors• A minimum dedicated (for fire) storage supply of

2,500 gallons on your property. More may berequired or prudent.

• Clearly mark all emergency water sources andnotify your local fire department of their exist-ence.

• Create easy firefighter access to your closestemergency water source.

INSPECTION & MAINTENANCE

Make periodic inspections of your home, looking fordeterioration such as breaks and spaces between rooftiles, warping wood, or cracks and crevices, rodententry points in the structure. Prevent combustiblematerials and debris including dry grass fromaccumulating beneath patio decks or elevatedporches. Screen or enclose areas below decks withwire mesh screen no larger than 1/4 inch mesh ORless, even better construct skirting from the deck tothe ground of ignition resistant materials.

All the defensible space in the world is useless ifyou don’t conduct regular maintenance!

Stack woodpiles at least 30 feet from all structuresand clear flammable vegetation within 10 feet ofwoodpiles.

One cord of firewood contains 20 million BTUsof heat energy, or the equivalent of 160 gallonsof gasoline. Do you want that near your home?

Locate propane tanks at least 30 feet from anystructure and surround them with 10 feet of clear-ance. Be sure that your tank has seismic tie downs.

Remove all stacks of construction materials, pineneedles, leaves and other debris from your yard.

Remove dead branches hanging over your roof.

Remove any branches within 10 feet of your chimney.

Clean all dead leaves and needles from your roofand gutters.

Install a roof that meets Class “A” rating require-ments.

Cover your chimney outlet and stovepipe with a non-flammable screen of one-half inch mesh.

This Checklist is not intended to replace officialbuilding code requirements, but hopes to offersuggestions when considering firesafe ignitionresistant construction methods. Remember thatyour home may be part of the problem.

In designing or upgrading your firewise ignitionresistant home, remember that the goal is tocomplement it with adequate defensible space.

For additional information and links to other usefulwebsites go to the Fire Safe Sonoma home page:www.firesafesonoma.org

45211

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WIND DRIVEN EMBERS and firebrands blown ahead of the fire that RADIANT HEAT generally from flammable vegetation or adjacentland in areas that catch or trap them. Heat traps include roof valleys & burning homes that are too close to your home.gutters, open eaves, soffits, overhangs, or under decks and balconies.

DIRECT FLAME CONTACT from flammable native or urban Note that 50% of the houses with wood roofs and less than 30 feet oflandscaping, attached wood fences and accumulation or storage of vegetation clearance were destroyed by wildfire. But less than 1% of theflammable materials against the house or under decks. homes with fire resistant roofs and 100 feet of clearance were destroyed.

CAUSES OF HOME IGNITION FROM WILDFIRESDuring a wildland fire, three conditions stand out as ignition threats to homes and outbuildings

EFFECTIVE SUPPRESSION TACTICS

Where accessible, suppression by fire engines using hose lines is themethod of choice. Fireline constructed with hand tools can also beeffective.

Fire engines with water and hose lines will be needed to knock downthe fire. Air tankers, helicopters and bulldozers may be required.

Air tankers with fire suppressing retardant & helicopters are requiredto reduce the fire’s rate of spread before engines, fire crews orbulldozers can be effective. Burning out vegetation between thefireline and the advancing fire may be necessary.

Direct fire suppression ineffective! Fire will need to be fought usingroads, streams and natural barriers. Burning out may be necessary.

THE LIMITATIONS OF WILDLANDFIREFIGHTING

A lot of people assume that when a wildfire starts,it will be quickly controlled and extinguished. Thisis accurate 97% of the time. The vast majority ofthese fires are small fires in small fuels.Firefighters have the ability, equipment, andtechnology to effectively suppress most wildfires.But 3% of the time wildfires burn so intensely thatthere is little firefighters can do.

Presented at right are firefighter tactics as theyrelate to common wildland fuels.

FUEL TYPE

Grassland

Coastal ScrubBrush (less than 4’ tall)

Heavy Chaparral(a mix of brush types 4’-15’tall containing a largeamount of dead material)

Dense ConiferForest

15

If your home or neighborhood is threatened by wildfire, occupants may be advised to evacuate. Your Family Emergency Planshould be in place and practiced regularly by all family members before an emergency occurs! Include the following recom-mendations at a minimum. When in doubt - EVACUATE!

IF WILDFIRE APPROACHES

Pre-Fire & Emergency Preparations:❏ Develop a family emergency plan

❏ Meet with your family and discuss the types ofdisasters that could occur

❏ Have a broad-based plan that will work for mostdisasters including wildfire

❏ Discuss where to go and what to bring if ad-vised to evacuate

❏ Determine and discuss two evacuation routes

❏ Show responsible family members how, whereand when to shut off water, gas and electricity atmain controls.

❏ Practice what you have discussed

❏ Plan how your family will stay in contact ifseparated by disaster

❏ Pick two meeting places: (1) a place a safedistance from home in case of a home fire; (2) aplace outside your neighborhood in case youcan’t return home.

❏ Choose an out-of-area friend as a “check-incontact” for everyone to call & make sure theyhave the phone numbers.

❏ Relay your plans to the contact person

WHEN WILDFIRE APPROACHES

What should I have with me?❏ Wear only cotton or wool clothes

❏ Safe attire includes long pants, long sleevedshirt or jacket and boots

❏ Warm clothing for cold nights

❏ Carry gloves, goggles, a handkerchief to coveryour face and water to drink

❏ Keep a flashlight and portable radio with you atall times

❏ Tune in to a local radio station and listen forinstructions

What about family members and pets?❏ Stay together

❏ Evacuate all family members and pets

❏ Capture your pets early as there will be confu-sion. Restrain them by leash, locked in a bed-room or kennel cage.

Photo courtesy of Jim Linardos

How should I prepare my car?❏ Place the vehicle in the garage, pointing out

with keys in ignition - don’t lock keys in car

❏ Place essential items in the car

❏ Roll up all windows when departing from thegarage

❏ Always keep the tank at least half full

❏ Disconnect the electric garage door opener sothat the door can be opened manually

❏ Close garage door upon leaving

What should I take?❏ Important documents (bank, IRS, trust, invest-

ment, insurance policies, birth certificates,passports and medical records)

❏ Credit and ATM cards

❏ Medications

❏ Prescription glasses & spares

❏ Driver’s license

❏ Passport

❏ Computer backup files

❏ Inventory of home contents (consider videotaping)

❏ Photographs of the exterior of the house andlandscape

❏ Address book

❏ Cell phone and charger

❏ Personal toiletries

❏ Change of clothing for each family member

❏ Family photo albums and videos

❏ Family Heirlooms

How should I leave my home?❏ Close all interior doors

❏ Leave a light on in each room

❏ Remove lightweight, non-fire-resistant curtainsand other combustible materials around win-dows

❏ Close fire resistant drapes

❏ Move over stuffed furniture such as couches andeasy chairs to the center of the room

❏ Shut off main gas supply to house

❏ Know two or more ways out

What about the outside of my home?❏ Shut off propane at the tank or natural gas at the

meter

❏ Show responsible family members how andwhen to shut off water, gas and electricity atmain controls

❏ Close all exterior vents if possible

❏ Prop a ladder against the house to providefirefighters with access to the roof

❏ Make sure all garden hoses are connected andhave spry nozzles attached

❏ Close all exterior doors and windows

❏ Leave exterior doors unlocked

❏ Turn on outside lights

❏ If available and there is time, cover windows,attic openings and vents with plywood that is atleast one-half inch thick

If you have an emergency water source(pool, pond, etc.) and/or portable pump,clearly mark its availability so it can beseen from the street, Do this now, notwhen the fire comes.

WHEN EVACUATION IS NECCESSARYTIME IS OF THE ESSENCE. REMEMBER,MATERIAL THINGS CAN BE REPLACED -FAMILY MEMBERS CANNOT!

If a fire should occur within the house or the wildland around it, contact the fire department immediately.Continue to inspect your house and property for flame or embers.

Most importantly, STAY CALM!

16

SOROPTIMISTSINTERNATIONALOF SANTA ROSA

www.sisantarosa.org

California Department of Forestry and Fire Protectionwww.fire.ca.gov/php

Sonoma County Department of Emergency Serviceswww.sonoma-county.org/des

This publication provided by:

Fire Agencies of Sonoma CountyCommunity Service Area #40Volunteer Fire Departments:c/o Sonoma County Department ofEmergency Services - 565-1152

AnnapolisBloomfieldBodegaCamp MeekerFort RossKnights ValleyLakevilleMayacamasMountainSan AntonioThe Sea RanchSotoyomeTwo RockValley FordWilmar

Fire Protection DistrictsCity Fire Departments:

Bennett Valley FPD - 578-7761Bodega Bay FPD - 875-3700California Department of Forestry

and Fire Protection - 576-2285Cazadero CSD - 632-5482Cloverdale FPD - 894-3545Fire Safe Sonoma - 565-1152Forestville FPD - 887-2212Geyserville FPD - 857-3535Glen Ellen FPD- 996-9266Gold Ridge FPD - 823-1084Graton FPD - 823-5515Healdsburg FD - 431-3360Kenwood FPD - 833-2042Monte Rio FPD - 865-2067Occidental CSD - 874-3800Petaluma FD - 778-4390Rancho Adobe FPD - 795-6011Rincon Valley FPD - 539-1801Rohnert Park DPS - 584-2650Roseland FPD (Santa Rosa) - 543-3500Russian River FPD - 869-9089Santa Rosa FD - 543-3500Schell-Vista FPD - 938-2633Sebastopol FD - 823-8061Sonoma County Department

of Emergency Services - 565-1152Sonoma Development Center - 938-6333Sonoma Valley FD - 996-2102Timber Cove FPD - 847-3368Two Rock Coast Guard FD - 765-7355Windsor FPD - 838-1170

THANK YOU!THANK YOU!THANK YOU!THANK YOU!Fire Safe Sonoma wishes to acknowledge the generous support that made the printing of this publication possible

Fire Safe Sonomawww.firesafesonoma.org

707-565-1152

Santa Rosa Firefighter’s AssociationInternational Association of Firefighters

Local 1401

Gold Ridge FPD

Rincon Valley FPD

State Farm Insurancewww.statefarm.com

Funding: Text & Artwork:

Graphics and text for the “Defensible SpaceZone Concepts ©2005” pages were madepossible through the generosity of the ButteCounty Fire Safe Council & Cedar Creek.Text and artwork by ButteFireSafe.org andFireSafeHelp.com

This publication was adapted in large partfrom “Living With Fire - A Guide for theHomeowner ©2005" written by Ed Smith,University of Nevada Cooperative Extension,with assistance from Sonya Sistare, LivingWith Fire Program Assistant. Graphic designprovided by Lucy Walker, Office of Marketingand Communications, University of Nevada,Reno. Illustration services were provided byKirah Van Sickle and Animania, LLC. Fund-ing for the original publication provided by aNational Fire Plan grant from the USDAForest Service/Nevada Division of Forestry.

www.livingwithfire.info/

Cover art - Monty Dolack Gallery,Missoula, Montana©2005 www.dolack.com

This publication was complied by Fire Safe Sonoma. Fire Safe Sonoma isdedicated to reducing the Wildland Fire Threat and improving Fire Safetyawareness throughout Sonoma County. Visit us at www.firesafesonoma.org.

A special thanks to Captain Pete Martin for histireless dedication to make this publicationpossible.