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WHIRLMAGAZINE.COM n WHIRL 53 NOUVELLE CUISINE FOOD tour BY ANDREA BOSCO | PHOTOGRAPH + STYLING BY CAYLA ZAHORAN THE FALL FOOD SCENE IS ROBUST WITH THE EXPANSION OF FLAGSHIP RESTAURANTS, THE ARRIVAL OF DYNAMITE CHEFS, AND EPICUREAN CELEBRATIONS! Learn tips from top chef Jason Capps on spicing up your game-day tailgate. Reinvent your palate with a visit to that new restaurant you’ve been meaning to try, and stock your ‘fridge with delicious Italian soda, new to Burgatory, made locally. New on the scene is a French patisserie — warm up with a café au lait and a to-die-for éclair. There is so much to put on your food radar. Grab your scarf and go! Turn to page 56 to get the details on these gorgeous goodies from Gaby et Jules!

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Page 1: Foo tour Nouvelle CuisiNe - WHIRL Magazinewhirlmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Food-Tour...whirlmagazine.com n Whirl 53 Nouvelle CuisiNe Foo tour By AndreA Bosco | PhotogrAPh

w h i r l m a g a z i n e . c o m n W h i r l 53

Nouvelle CuisiNefood tour

By AndreA Bosco | PhotogrAPh + styling By cAylA ZAhorAn

the fall food scene is robust with the expansion of flagship restaurants, the arrival of dynamite chefs, and epicurean celebrations! Learn tips from top chef Jason Capps on spicing up your game-day tailgate. Reinvent your palate with a visit to that new restaurant you’ve been meaning to try, and stock your ‘fridge with delicious Italian soda, new to Burgatory, made locally. New on the scene is a French patisserie — warm up with a café au lait and a to-die-for éclair. There is so much to put on your food radar. Grab your scarf and go!

Turn to page 56 to get the details on these gorgeous

goodies from Gaby et Jules!

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54 W h i r l n o c T o B e r 2 0 1 3

No one knows a tailgate better than Jason Capps. capps owns and operates Bella Sera catering, Venue, Bistro & BBQ, a certified-green brand. we asked for the master griller’s assistance in planning a supreme parking lot party. he may make it look easy, but much of what’s below actually is! who’s in?

The Venue at Bella Sera, 414 Morganza Road, Canonsburg. 724.745.5575. bellaserapgh.com.

Chef’s Top 10: JasoN Capps

Photographs from Terry clark, by adam milliron.

Beyond Beer: Think Batch

Beverages “Sangria is a great example of how advanced preparation meets on-site convenience. Be sure to soak your fall fruit (apples, pears, grapes) in brandy one to two days ahead. Awake Sunday morning, add your wine of choice and go. Let blend. A Canadian “Sunday Funday” favorite is the “Caesar” — a Bloody Mary with clam juice. Funk it up with cool garnishes, i.e., Slim Jims, long carrot sticks, or try pre-pierced skewers with pepperoncini, jumbo olives, pickled cauliflower, and Genoa salami cubes.”

Hot Soup, Happy Faces

“Soups and stews embody all the key aspects of the ultimate tailgate fare. Warming and filling, soups are easy to serve and eat standing up — sometimes without a spoon. My favorite? Butternut squash bisque. Serve in an insulated paper cup (no Styro, yo!), you can even get fancy and garnish with a dollop of Greek yogurt and some freshly grated nutmeg. Touchdown!”

KISSF (Keep It Simple, Steelers Fans)

“Less (work) is more (fun). Added stress does not make you a better host. Know your limitations, but push the envelope toward ETS (Expert Tailgate Status). Don’t out-do yourself. As a guest, or host, I’d rather have three awesome items on the plate versus six or more half-baked concoctions.”

1

Timing Is Everything

“Ready, set, go! Quick set-up means more party time and less missed kick-offs. Fire up the grill, pop the E-Z-UP tent, and set up your prep and buffet tables. Get drinks in hands, starter snacks out, then put out condiments — 15 minutes tops. By now, the grill is already hot and you’ve intuitively staged like a pro. Hint: A tent not only protects from the elements, but also creates boundaries to define your space.”

2

“Lettuce” Get Ahead of the

Game “What can you do in advance? Create items that store and travel well — made days ahead. One of my favorites are veal meatballs. Thursday, make tomato sauce. Friday, make meatballs and bake. Saturday, combine the two, and place in crockpot on low before bed. Split and garlic butter the rolls — wrap in foil. Sunday morning, place bun on grill, meatballs on bun, add shredded mozzarella on meatballs, return to grill in foil, eat, repeat.”

3

The Heat Is On “Propane versus charcoal?

Propane eliminates several variables by consistently producing quick and reliable heat. Just be sure to test-fire it at home to make sure it works. Clean it up, and check your gas supply. Anything you can take already warm or par-cooked, do it. Remember: coolers work as warmers, too. The fuller the better.”

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w h i r l m a g a z i n e . c o m n W h i r l 55Photograph from Jacky Fife.

Think for the Masses

“Healthier choices are always smart to have around. With eight home games, why not mix it up with partial menu themes? A great variation could be a Korean BBQ. Kalbi beef is a super-smart tailgate item. Thinly sliced, cross-cut short ribs marinated with ground kiwi, brown sugar, soy, and fresh ginger will cook in five minutes on the grill. Pair with Asian red cabbage slaw.”

Delegate When You Tailgate...

“...but also have a contingency plan. Otherwise, don’t count on someone for the core items you can’t live without. Life happens, traffic happens. Let someone bring the buns, not the meatballs. A bread sandwich just isn’t that good, if you know what I mean. Meatballs on a plate are acceptable in a pinch. Catch my drift?”

Tender and Juicy “Saucier, moister foods will always

be better in the long run. Especially if you plan to rekindle the flames and rejoice a victory after the game. If I were to go the Southwestern route, I love our tasty Roasted Corn & Black Bean Salad (recipe available at whirlmagazine.com!), served with our Grilled Baja Chicken Breast. Marinated and ready for the grill, boneless/skinless chicken breasts cook quickly and offer a healthier protein option.”

Snacks N’at “Skip the boring chips and pretzels,

and go beyond! Why not combine them with some cashews, caramel or cheese popcorn, flavored Triscuits, Cheez-its, you name it. For a dessert treat, have apples already filled with brown sugar, butter, and cinnamon, wrapped in foil, and ready for the grill. I’ve made soft pretzels, s’mores, gyros, even fajitas right on the grill, with the help of heavy duty foil.”

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56 W h i r l n o c T o B e r 2 0 1 3

TRY OUR NEW LOCATION —

Bridgeville (October 2013)1595 Washington Pike • 412.564.5746

Barefoot in PittsburghAspiring to make your cooking explorations foolproof? Be sure to reserve your seat for October 17 when the Barefoot contessa, ina garten, comes to town. the Food network star and best-selling cookbook author will be speaking at the Benedum center, sharing her simple and delicious cooking know-how. her new, new york times best-selling cookbook, “Foolproof: recipes you can trust,” is one of our must-haves in the kitchen, and we can’t wait for the Q&A portion of the evening to get even more tried-and-tested advice from garten. how cool is that? Barefoot Contessa, barefootcontessa.com. For tickets, visit trustarts.com. — Nicole Barley

La Crème de la Crèmeif you’re looking for a fine French pastry experience close to home, gaby et Jules is calling your name. the much-anticipated pâtisserie is pleasing its regulars and newbies with Paris-quality macarons, éclairs, napoléons, and other French specialties (see our spread on page 53!). the sibling brand of shadyside’s Paris 66, the locale is a joint venture of Frederic and lori rongier, and Master Pastry chef david Piquard, who the rongiers brought to the states in 2011. Piquard impresses with edible creations, which perfectly complement the modern French décor — spotless stainless steel, white marble-topped counters, and sparkling glass vitrines. gaby et Jules represents the grandfathers of Frederic and david, gabriel “gaby” rongier and Jules Piquard — who both dreamed of opening French pâtisseries. “it is very emotional for us,” says Frederic. “We are so happy to be fulfilling this dream, not only for ourselves but for our families. And we are grateful to the city of Pittsburgh for welcoming us with open arms. We hope that all will enjoy this gift from France.” oui oui, mon ami! Gaby et Jules, 5837 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill. 412.682.1966. gabyetjules.com. Paris 66, 6018 Penn Circle South, Shadyside. 412.404.8166. paris66bistro.com.

Photographs from random house, gaby et Jules.

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w h i r l m a g a z i n e . c o m n W h i r l 57

Celebrating

74 YEARSof serving great

ITALIAN FOODAll dressings and

sauces are house made18 flavors of18 flavors of

house made gelato

IF YOU LOVE ITALIAN FOODYOU OWE IT TO YOURSELFTO TRY OUR RESTAURANT

Opentable.com for Reservations.

AngelosRestaurant.com2109 North Franklin DrWashington, Pa. 15301

724-222-7120

Mad about it Mad Mex changed the Pittsburgh culinary scene when it first opened its doors in october 1993. it started in oakland with a small collection of folk art, simple dishes, and a few microbrews. now, the company boasts 10 locations in Pittsburgh and the surrounding area. this year, it’s celebrating its 20th anniversary, and has added delicious menu items to commemorate! the restaurant has teamed up with Fat head’s Brewery to create “the perfect beer.” enter dos décadas — a Mosaic hop blend of passion fruit and piney citrus notes, created by ale alchemist Matt cole. Available the second week of the month, at 7.5 percent ABV and 80 iBUs, it’s the perfect drink to wash down a from-scratch signature burrito or enchilada. let’s celebrate! Mad Mex, 20510 Perry Hwy., Cranberry. 724.741.5656. 4100 William Penn Hwy., Monroeville. 412.349.6767. 7905 McKnight Road, North Hills. 412.366.5656. 370 Atwood St., Oakland. 412.681.5656. 2 Robinson Plaza, Park Manor Drive, Robinson. 412.494.5656. 220 South Highland Ave., Shadyside. 412.345.0185. 2101 Green Tree Road, Scott Township. 412.279.0200. madmex.com. — Michelle Dickson

TalenT ReTuRnsBraddock’s Pittsburgh Brasserie has welcomed culinary trailblazer and Pittsburgh native Jason shaffer as its new executive chef. highly sought after, his extensive résumé features experience pioneering the revitalization of dozens of restaurants from within new orleans’ Beau rivage casino to Vegas’ Mandalay Bay and Bellagio. he’s most known for his nine-year contribution to the nine restaurants of the renowned Beau rivage casino, including the launch of the casino’s award-winning Port house. “We are confident that chef’s culinary creativity will continue to elevate our guests’ dining experience,” says general Manager Jennifer thomas. “his worldly expertise brings tremendous talent to our team.” he’s in part responsible for the revamping of Mt. Washington’s Monterey Bay Fish grotto, and played an integral role in the $16 million transformation of the radisson turned doubletree by hilton Pittsburgh in green tree — not to mention other countless accolades. he’s earned four-star and four-diamond ratings, as well as awards from dirona, Food & Wine spectator, and the James Beard Foundation. We’re thrilled to have him back. Braddock’s Pittsburgh Brasserie, 107 6th St., Downtown. 412.992.2005. braddocksrestaurant.com.

Calendar Cravings! get to the intersection of Penn and highland Avenues in east liberty on October 5 for a vibrant block party, complete with a pig roast by chef extraordinaire Kevin sousa, food trucks, olive oil tastings, and glass-blowing demos. the east liberty round-Up is a celebration of the area’s cultural resurgence and part of week-long festivities, which include an artisan pop-up lounge at Wood street galleries, an open artist studios brunch in lawrenceville, and mural tours in Millvale. Visit treadingart.com/discoverpittsburgh for details.

Photograph by rachel Priselac.

Mad Mex shadyside

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58 W h i r l n o c T o B e r 2 0 1 3

www.sesameinn.com

333

suNday bbQnot going to the game? hot at cain’s saloon are steelers sundays! the dormont restaurant serves in-house smoked meats and barbecue specials on game day, not to mention a Bloody Mary bar, and all-day breakfast. the bar boasts 33 craft beers, a list of local brews, daily specials, and 20 flat-screen tVs for the sports fanatics. Known for the codfather, a colossal, “gangster” fish sandwich, the locale is also known for its all-you-can-eat crab legs on Monday and wing night on Wednesday. For its smokehouse sunday menu, visit cainssaloon.com. Cain’s Saloon, 3239 W. Liberty Ave., Dormont. 412.561.7444.

Vine to Vinoopening October 1, gervasi Vineyard will unveil its new winery and wine bar, the crush house! the canton, ohio, sprawling estate’s new café-style wine bar and eatery will provide guests with 13,000-square-feet of space to eat, drink, and relax. did we mention the outdoor seating is accompanied by a fireplace? complementing the stunning interior is state-of-the-art wine-making equipment, and peek-a-boo views of the winery and barrel room. And, the second-floor wraparound balcony serves incredible views of the creek bed and south vineyard. Modestly priced, the menu ranges from $5-12 for a fun lunch, and with the expansive new tasting bar, tasting plates, and both public and private wine tours, there is something for everyone. Also being introduced to the menu are hand-crafted signature cocktails, made with oyo craft spirits, and some unique italian and local craft beers! Why not make a weekend out of it and stay in one of the winery’s 24 beautiful suites? Gervasi Vineyard, 1700 55th St. NE, Canton, Ohio. 330.497.1000. gervasivineyard.com. — Katherine Christoff

Don’t Fear This Beardloved by many, redbeard’s has recently debuted its second location! A Pittsburgh staple locale — the original sits atop Mt. Washington — has opened downtown as a sports Bar & grill that’s great for game day, before, after, or during. open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m., the space offers an extensive menu, including a killer reuben (our favorite!), spring rolls, deep fried pickles, and a Kielbasa & Kraut sandwich. For those late-night foodies, the kitchen stays open until 1 a.m. daily specials include all-you-can-eat crab legs, taco tuesdays, all-you-can-eat wings, all-you-can-eat pasta, drafts all day, and a Bloody Mary bar on sundays. owner len semplice offers free Wi-Fi, 14 hd tVs, and space for private parties. in fact, we’re hosting our Perfect Match Party, in conjunction with the Modern Matchmaker, on September 25. stop by for a bite! Redbeard’s Sports Bar & Grill, 144 6th St., Downtown. 412.261.2324. 201 Shiloh St., Mt. Washington. redbeardspgh.com.

Photograph from gervasi Vineyard.

CocktailBar

DancingClub

featuringProhibition era

specialty cocktails

1323 E. Carson St.RowdyBuck.com

facebook.com/RowdyBuckPgh

P i t t s b u r g h412-431-BUCK

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w h i r l m a g a z i n e . c o m n W h i r l 59

Adjacent to Pe t Smart and Whole Foods in Shadyside

Voted Top 25 Best Restaurants in Pit tsburgh

Premier Sports Bar & Eatery

3239 West Liberty Avenue Dormont, PA 15216 (412)561-7444

21 HD TVs33 Rotating Seasonal Craft & Microbrews

Open 7 Days a Week for BREAKFAST

LUNCHDINNER

Kitchen Open until 1AM 7 Days a Week

CainsSaloon.com

Pie & PatronsJohnsonville italian sausage is a national favorite pairing up with Pittsburgh establishments for a delicious combination! local pizzerias, such as Pesaro’s Pizza, casa del sole, and Beto’s Pizza, are creating a “specialty” pizza using the company’s sausage. From September 30-October 27, customers can vote for their favorite at topthatpittsburgh.com. once voting has closed, the pizzeria with the most votes will receive $500 cash and a $500 donation to the charity of their choice, and a Johnsonville italian sausage top that! Pittsburgh trophy to display. And, the runner-up will receive $250 cash and $250 to donate. grab a slice and vote! Johnsonville Italian Sausage, johnsonvillekitchens.com. — M.D.

Make a splashA self-proclaimed lover of old history, Vito gerasole acquired the traditional natrona Bottling company almost four years ago in what he calls a “stroke of luck” and a “gift from god.” the seasoned restaurateur — his family owns shadyside restaurant girasole — decided to buy the old-fashioned soda bottling company after he visited the plant and fell in love with the entire process. “the creation of the bottles is fun and eye-catching,” says gerasole. natrona Bottling company offers palate-pleasing flavors like cherry, grape, mint julep, and ginger beer, which is its most popular seller. since taking the reins, Vito has created two new flavors — vanilla cream and almond cream. the company is on an advancing course. “Being such an old company, it really needs coddled,” he says. “i love the hustle and bustle of the restaurant business, but i really enjoy the tender care i can put into natrona Bottling.” the old-fashioned sodas are sold at Wholey’s, giant eagle Market district, Brentwood distributing, and were just picked up by Burgatory. Natrona Bottling Company, 91 River Ave., Natrona. 724.224.9224. natronabottlingcompany.com. — K.C.

spooN’s spiNoffspoon owners rick stern and Brian Pekarcik are coming downtown in november with the opening of grit & grace on liberty Avenue. the American dim sum-style restaurant will feature a selection of small plates, “street food,” and noodle bowls. “the idea is to share entrées,” says Pekarcik. “it’ll be a very casual, social, communal, and lively place.” the cocktail and wine list will reflect the menu with “a nice saké representation” and “a lot more by the glass.” the pair says the menu will be reasonably priced at $4-5 for small plates and $10-18 for entrées, and that the name is a good representation of the style of food and drink — think fresh, infused simple syrups. “some of our offerings will be polished and refined — and some pretty rustic.” Grit & Grace, 535 Liberty Ave., Downtown. 412.224.2240. Spoon, 134 S. Highland Ave., East Liberty. 412.362.6001. spoonpgh.com.

Photograph by cayla zahoran.