Foods of Ethiopia (Gnv64)

8/18/2019 Foods of Ethiopia (Gnv64)

1/65

(c) 2011 Kidhaven Press. All Rights Reserved.


2/65



3/65

© 2008 Gale, a part of Cengage Learning

For more information, contact

KidHaven Press

27500 Drake Rd.

Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535

Or you can visit our Internet site at gale.cengage.com

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form

or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording,

taping, Web distribution or information storage retrieval systems—without the written

permission of the publisher.

Every effort has been made to trace the owners of copyrighted material.

Printed in the United States of America1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12 11 10 09 08

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA

Busby, Barbara Sheen.

Foods of Ethiopia / by Barbara Sheen Busby.

p. cm. -- (A taste of culture)

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN-13: 978-0-7377-3775-2 (hardcover)

1. Cookery, Ethiopian--Juvenile literature. I. Title.

TX725.E84S54 2007

641.5963--dc22 2007024353

Acknowledgement

We would like to express our sincere

gratitude to Aster Kassaye of Aster’s Ethiopian

Restaurant, Austin, Texas.

ISBN-10: 0-7377-3775-1



4/65

Chapter 1The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 4

Chapter 2Favorite Foods 18

Chapter 3Coffee and Snacks 31

Chapter 4Special Occasions 43

Metric Conversions 55Notes 56

Glossary 58

For Further Exploration 60

Index 62

Picture Credits 64

About the Author 64

Contents



5/65

The Basics

of EthiopianCooking

Ethiopia is one of the oldest civilizations in the

world. Early records of Ethiopia date back to

biblical times. In fact, members of the Ethiopian

royal family believe they are descended from the Old

Testament’s King Solomon and Makeda, Queen of

Sheba. Throughout the nation’s long history, Ethiopian

cooks have depended on three ingredients—teff (tef ),

spices, and butter—to give their cooking its distinct

flavor. These ingredients have been the foundation ofEthiopian cooking since 3000 b.c.

A Unique GrainTeff is a unique grain that grows only in Ethiopia and

neighboring Eritrea. Measuring only 1/32 of an inch

C h a p t e r

1

4



6/65

Food Regions of Ethiopia

Chickpeas

ggplants

ams

Coffee Beans d>J ~J

ERITREA RED SEA

VEggs ( )

Lamb

Chicken

Lentils

Honey

GULF OF

ADEN



7/65

6 Foods of Ethiopia

in diameter, it is the tiniest grain in the world. It is so

small that it takes 150 grains of teff to equal the weight

of just one grain of wheat.

Although teff is small, it is so nutritious that food

experts call it a “super grain.” Eight ounces of teff hastwice as much iron as an equal portion of beef and

more calcium than a cup of milk. It is also loaded with

protein and complex carbohydrates.

An Essential Part of Life

Ethiopians use teff to make injera (en-jer-a), a spongy

tart flatbread that Ethiopians cannot do without.“When I explain Ethiopian food to people who have

never had it before, I always start by telling them

Although teff is the smallest grain in theworld, it is considered a “super grain”

because it is so nutritious.



8/65

The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 7

about injera,” explains chef Marcus Samuelsson, an

Ethiopian who grew up in Europe. “It is what makes

Ethiopian food special.”1

The bread is served at every meal and is so much a

part of Ethiopian life that when Ethiopians meet, theygreet each other by asking, “Have you eaten injera

yet?” Because Ethiopia has experienced many periods

of food shortages, an answer of “yes” implies that all is

Injera, made from teff, is an essential part of the Ethiopian diet and iseaten at every meal.



9/65

8 Foods of Ethiopia

well. Sharing the nourishing bread during hard times

kept many Ethiopians alive.

Plates and Utensils

Making injera is time consuming. To get its tart flavor, which is similar to that of sourdough bread, the dough

must be left for three days while a natural substance in

teff causes it to ferment. The dough is then shaped into

a large disk that measures about 20 inches (50cm) in

diameter and looks like a giant pancake. It is dropped

into a skillet known as a mitad (mi-tad) and fried over a

Kategna

Kategna is Ethiopian spicy toast. It is popular for

breakfast and snacks. Ethiopians use injera to

make kategna. Because it is not easy to find injera

in Amer

ican supermarkets, th

is rec

ipe uses flourtortillas.

Ingredients2 flour tortillas

1 tablespoon butter, softened

¼ teaspoon each of cayenne pepper and paprika

½ teaspoon garlic powder

Instructions1. Mix the spices with the butter. Cut the tortillas into

quarters. Spread the butter mixture on the tortillas.

2. Put the tortillas on a tray in a toaster oven or broiler and

bake until the tortillas are crisp.

Serves 2–4.



10/65


Ethiopian meals, shared with friends and family, are eaten with fingersinstead of utensils.

wood fire. When the dough hits the hot pan, air bubbles

form. This gives injera a spongy texture.

When the bread has cooled, it is spread across a

large communal platter that is the same size as themesab (meh-sahb), a drum-shaped straw table used in

Ethiopia. The main course, which is almost always a

variety of saucy stews, is then poured over the injera.

According to journalist Amy Pataki, “It looks like an



11/65

10 Foods of Ethiopia

Special SkillsIn the past, it was the job of Ethiopian

women to make the mesab, the Ethiopian

di

ni

ng table.

Weavers used di

fferentgrasses, which they wove into intricate

patterns, and added vegetable dyes to

color their work. They waterproofed the

tables with the juice of the aloe plant.

Ethiopian women also wove straw baskets for carrying

things, as well as straw bowls, hats, and parasols. Although

many modern Ethiopian women buy these products ready-

made, some Ethiopian women still work with straw, espe-

cially those who live in rural villages.

Weavers use different grasses and vegetable dyes to create colorfulbaskets.



12/65


oversized artist’s palette, the various stews daubed onlike various colors of paint.”2

More injera is folded and placed beside every diner.

Then the fun begins! Everyone eats from the central

serving tray and no utensils or individual plates are

used. Instead, diners break off pieces of injera from the

pile beside their place and use the bread to scoop up bits

of stew from the shared platter. The many air holes in

the bread and its stretchy nature allow it to absorb the

stew like a sponge. When the folded injera is gone, the

diners share the injera on the center tray. It has soaked

up all the savory stew juices so it is especially delicious.

The traditional Ethiopian meal is always served with injera.



13/65


Although this type of shared eating may seem odd

to North Americans, Ethiopians insist it brings people

closer together. In fact, a popular Ethiopian proverb

goes, “People who eat off the same plate will neverbetray each other.”3

Red Hot

Fiery spice blends complement injera’s tangy flavor.

For centuries, Ethiopian cooks have been combining

The spices used to make berbere and other spice blends are sold inoutdoor markets.



14/65


different spices to create a wide range of spice blends.

At first, the spices were used to preserve food that would

otherwise spoil. But they added so much flavor that they

soon became an essential part of every Ethiopian meal.

Iyassu, who grew up in Ethiopia, explains: “Ethiopianfood is the ultimate in spicy cookery, not only because

the food is hot, but also because of the abundance of

spices used.”4

Most Ethiopian spice blends begin with very hot

red chile peppers. They give Ethiopian cooking vivid

color, zesty flavor, and an enticing aroma. Berbere

(bar-bare-ree)

is far and away the most popular ofthese blends. This scarlet spice mixture combines

red chile peppers with up to 20 other spices such

as garlic, cinnamon, cumin, nutmeg, cardamom,

ginger, and fenugreek seeds, all of which are sold

in Ethiopian markets. Here, according to author

Many BlendsBerbere is not the only spice blend that

Ethiopians create. Awaze is another popu-

lar spice mixture. It starts with mild green

chile peppers. Ginger, garlic, cardamom,

basil, and water are added. Ethiopians use

awaze like catsup, or as a d

ip

. It

is m

ildertasting than berbere.

Mitmita, on the other hand, is hotter than berbere. It is

a powder made from the hottest chile peppers in Ethiopia

and mixed with cardamom and cloves. Mitmita is sprinkled

on meat.



15/65


To make berbere, dried chiles andgarlic are ground together in a mortarusing a pestle. Many different spicesare combined to form a berbere recipethat is unique to each Ethiopian cook.



16/65


Helen Bergan, who lived in Ethiopia for three years,

“A woman could choose those spices she wanted from

the colored mounds that filled the air with fragrance.

With these spices, taken home wrapped in pieces

of newspaper, she made her own special blend ofberbere.”5

The first step in making berbere is drying the chiles

and garlic in the sun. This takes three days. It is common

to see the bright red peppers and the snow-white garlic

spread on straw mats outside Ethiopian homes.

Once dry, the spices are put in a stone bowl known as

a mortar and ground by hand into a fine powder with amalletlike tool called a pestle. Depending on the cook,

because each cook has his or her own special recipe, a

variety of other spices is added. The spice blend is then

either roasted or placed out in the sun to dry again.

Because making berbere is time-consuming, many

Ethiopians make at least 15 pounds (6.80kg) of berbere

at once. The spice, which is kept in clay containers with

tight-fitting lids, can keep for several months. There is

always a supply in every Ethiopian home. Ethiopian

cooking would be incomplete without it.

Spiced ButterBesides using spices to flavor their food, Ethiopians

mix spices with butter to create niter kebbeh,

(nit-ra keb-bah), a rich and fragrant oil that almost all

Ethiopian food is cooked in. Niter kebbeh starts with

clarified butter. It is the oil that forms when water and

milk solids are removed from butter. For this to occur,



17/65


butter is heated until all the water in it evaporates and

the milk solids separate from the oil. The milk solids are

skimmed off, leaving a golden oil.

To make niter kebbeh, clarified butter is mixed with

as many as 30 spices. These may include onions, garlic,

cumin, oregano, turmeric, and basil, to name just a

Eggs Firfir

Ethiopians add spice to everything, even scram-

bled eggs. This is an easy dish to make and a goodintroduction to Ethiopian cooking. If you prefer

not to use butter, you can spray the pan with

nonstick spray. Add more or less spice depending

on your preference.

Ingredients4 eggs

1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped

½ teaspoon each of garlic powder, g

inger,cardamom

¼ cup onions, chopped

1 tablespoon butter

Instructions1. Break the eggs into a bowl. Add all the other ingredients

and mix well.

2. Put the butter in the pan. Heat the pan over medium heat

until the butter melts.

3. Put the egg mixture into the pan. Stir the mixture until the

eggs cook.

Serve with injera or other flat bread.

Serves 2–4.



18/65


few. The spiced oil can be stored for months without

refrigeration.

Ethiopians cook almost everything in niter kebbeh.

It adds a powerful perfume and an intense buttery

flavor to meat, vegetables, and stews. “The spicedmixture known as nit’ir qibe [niter kebbeh],” explains

Samuelsson, “is kept handy in most Ethiopian kitchens

to add flavor to meat and vegetable stews. In fact, virtu-

ally no meal in Ethiopia is made without nit’ir qibe.”6

The spiced butter has been a part of Ethiopian

cooking for thousands of years, as has teff and fiery

spice blends like berbere. Just like their ancestorsbefore them, modern Ethiopian cooks depend on these

unique ingredients to give their cooking its distinc-

tive and delicious taste. These are the foundation of

Ethiopian cooking.



19/65

18

Favorite

Foods

C h a p t e r

2

Ethiopians like their food spicy. But because

Ethiopian cooks artfully blend a variety of spices

to create Ethiopia’s favorite dishes, no one flavor over-

powers another. Soothing side dishes mix well with

fiery main dishes and keep the food from burning the

mouth.

Ethiopia’s National Dish Wat (watt), a spicy stew made with berbere, is Ethiopia’s

national dish. It is far and away the most popular

food here. Wats featuring beef are among everyone’s

favorites, but the stew can also be made with chicken,

lamb, fish, lentils, or vegetables. Since religious beliefs



20/65

Favorite Foods 19

prohibit most Ethiopians from eating pork, it is rarely

used.

Beef wats may contain fresh or dried meat. The meat

may be on the bone, sliced, shredded, minced, ground,

or made into sausages. Any and every cut of meat is

used, from the finest steaks to organ meats. Wats made

with liver, brains, kidneys, tongue, or intestines are

not unusual. Even the toughest cuts of meat become

fall-apart tender after being slowly cooked. Nothing is

wasted.

The national dish of Ethiopia is wat, a spicy stew that can be made withmany different meats and vegetables.



21/65


Ethiopian women pridethemselves on their wat recipes,and many keep them secret.



22/65

Favorite Foods 21

Every Ethiopian cook has his or her own wat

recipe. No two are exactly alike. The content and

amount of spices differ from cook to cook. Ethiopian

cooks pride themselves on their wats and many keep

their recipe secret. In fact, in the past, Ethiopian women were judged by the quality of their cook-

ing and, especially, their wats. Those who made the

best wats were most respected by their neighbors. So

were their husbands, who were applauded for having

the wisdom to marry such good cooks. Explains chef

Daniel J. Mesfin: “A woman worth her salt values her

cooking no less than her looks. In fact, she is morepartial to her cooking because she is socially judged

by it: an unaccomplished woman makes her husband

a laughingstock.”7

Things have changed in modern Ethiopia. Women

are respected for many things besides their ability to

cook. What has not changed is the Ethiopian people’s

love of wat. Ethiopian cooks agree that the best wats

begin with onions. They are fried in niter kebbeh

until they are soft and brown. The onions sweeten

and thicken the stew, while the niter kebbeh adds a

rich buttery flavor. Depending on the cook, a variety

of fragrant spices such as ginger, cloves, fenugreek,

cumin, and garlic are added. Zesty berbere, water, andtomato sauce follow, along with either meat, chicken,

or vegetables. The stew is left to slowly cook until

the sauce thickens. As it cooks, the flavors blend and

intensify. There is the scorching berbere, the sweet gin-

ger, the bitter cumin, and the savory garlic, all balanced



23/65


perfectly by the sour taste of the injera that the stew is

poured over. Or, to add even more tart flavor, pieces of

injera are sometimes cooked right in the stew. Then the

stew is known as fitfit (fit fit). Either way, the flatbread’s

sour taste complements the hot and sweet spices in thestew, while the stew’s vivid red color contrasts beauti-

fully with the pale injera.

For those who find wat or fitfit too fiery, there is

alicha (ah-lee-cha). Alicha is by no means bland. Since

it does not contain berbere, however, it is milder tasting

than wat. It depends on niter kebbeh, mild peppers, and

various spices like ginger, garlic, and cardamom for itspleasant heat. Food writer Linda Walton describes her

first taste of alicha: “Each mouthful was as delicious as

the first.” It, she explains, was not “bland or too spicy.

The aromatic seasoning came from a combination of

shallots, red pepper, fresh ginger, cardamom, cumin,

coriander, curry…. It was wonderful.”8

Vegetarian FareEthiopians love meaty stews. However, because of reli-

gious reasons, most Ethiopians observe 200 fast days

during the year when they do not eat meat. Ethiopian

cooks have developed many delicious dishes for these

meat-free days. Stews that feature a spicy ground pea

powder called shiro (shu-roh) are popular. Shiro is

inexpensive, good tasting, nutritious, and filling. “Shiro

is a part of everyday Ethiopian life,” explains an article

on Ethiopian Millennium, a Web site dedicated to

Ethiopian culture. The powder, the article continues,



24/65

Favorite Foods 23

Dishes made with shiro weredeveloped to be eaten on thedays Ethiopians do not eat meat.



25/65


A Land of Contrasts

Ethiopia is a land of contrasts. In rural

villages, many Ethiopians live in conical

or beehi

ve-shaped bamboo homes orin stone houses with straw roofs. Most

are quite poor. They do not have elec-

tricity, gas, or running water. Cooking

is done over a wood fire. Fetching wood and water for

cooking is usually the job of young girls, who rarely go

to school.

In Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, many people

live in modern high-rise apartments. They have kitchens

with electricity, running water, and modern appliances.

Here, both girls and boys attend school.

Many rural Ethiopians live in villages of beehive-shaped homes.



26/65

Favorite Foods 25

“is incredibly popular among Ethiopians of every walk

of life.”9 It is no wonder that almost every Ethiopian

cook keeps a supply handy.Shiro is made from yellow split peas or chickpeas.

Turning them into a flavorful powder takes time, which

is why some Ethiopians buy the powder ready-made.

Many others still make it by hand.

Making shiro involves multiple steps. First, the

peas are boiled in water with chile peppers, berbere,

and garlic. Then they are placed out in the sun to dry.

This can take days. When the peas are ready, a

variety of spices such as cardamom, basil, and gar-

lic are added. The mixture is ground into flourlike

powder. Since many Ethiopians do not have food

Popular VegetablesEggplant is a popular vegetable in Ethio-

pia. Ethiopian eggplants look different

from the large purple eggplants popularin North America. Ethiopian eggplants are

small, oval shaped, and they are cream

colored. In fact, they look a lot like eggs.

Collard greens and kale are also popular vegetables

here. Both are similar to spinach in taste and color. Sama

leaves are another spinachlike vegetable. Sama is a leafy

shrub similar to nettles. It stings the skin when it is touched.

Cooks wear gloves while preparing it.

Potatoes, yams, and bell peppers are also eaten

frequently. Beans, peanuts, and lentils are other important

parts of the Ethiopian diet.



27/65


Ethiopian CollardGreens

Collard greens are often served as an accompa-

niment to Ethiopian stews. They may be served

alone or mixed with ayib.

Ingredients1 pound collard greens

2 tablespoons butter

½ teaspoon each of cayenne pepper, paprika,

and garlic powder

salt to taste

Instructions1. Wash the collard greens. Remove the stems and chop the

greens into 1-inch pieces.

2. Put the greens in a bowl, cover with water, and microwave

until the greens are tender, or cook them in a saucepan on

the stove on low heat.

3. Melt the butter. Add the spices to the melted butter. Pour

the spiced butter over the cooked greens.

Serves 4–6.

Stews are often served with collard greens as a side dish.



28/65

Favorite Foods 27

processors, grinding the powder is done with a mor-

tar and pestle. It takes a lot of time and energy to get

it fine enough.

Once the powder is made, making stews with shiro

is relatively easy. The powder is added to water, onions,spices, niter kebbeh, and green peppers and slowly

cooked. Other ingredients, such as pumpkin, cabbage,

and green bananas, may also be added.

Depending on what spices are added, the stew can

be red-hot or relatively mild. It may be served piping

hot or chilled. Thick and creamy shiro stews taste of

zesty and sweet spices, hearty peas, and savory peppers.Ethiopians love the taste so much that they often eat it

as a side dish on nonfasting days. “It is finger-licking

good, very popular for all occasions,”10 says Mesfin.

Chickpeas (above) or yellow split peas (right) are used tomake shiro.



29/65


Soothing Cheese and Yogurt Shiro, wats, alichas, and fitfits are often accompanied by

a soothing side dish of ayib (iab), which is homemade

cheese, or irgo (ir-go), homemade yogurt. Their creamy

flavors balance the spicy taste of the stews and cool the

palate.

Ayib is a white cheese that looks like cottage cheese but has a tangy taste.



30/65

Favorite Foods 29

Ayib is a white cheese that is similar in appear-

ance to cottage cheese. Although mild in flavor, it is

not bland. Lemon juice and spices such as ginger,

black pepper, salt, and cayenne pepper are added to

the cheese, which gives it a tangy savory taste. Somecooks add a touch of niter kebbeh. Others add cooked

vegetables such as collard greens. Sometimes yogurt is

mixed in with the spiced cheese, which gives the dish a

flavor similar to feta cheese. Ayib is, according to

Samuelsson, “simple to make, it’s wonderful on its own,

spread on a piece of injera, or when used to balance the

sharpness of heavenly spiced foods.”11

Ayib

This spiced cottage cheese is a good side dish. It is

also tasty on crackers. If you want it spicier or less

spicy, adjust the amount of spices.

Ingredients8 ounces cottage cheese

½ teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Instructions1. Combine all ingredients. Mix well.

Serves 4.



31/65


The same ingredients are used in making irgo, but

yogurt is substituted for cheese.

Both dishes are served with Ethiopian stews. Diners

dip pieces of injera into the cool and creamy side

dishes as a way to refresh their palates and lessenthe heat in their mouths. Their smooth texture and

slightly sour flavor just add to the range of flavors that

characterize Ethiopia’s favorite foods. Yes, these food

are hot and spicy, but they are also sweet, tart, smooth,

cool, and creamy all at the same time. Individually,

each flavor is distinctive. Mixed together, they bal-

ance each other to create the delicious dishes thatEthiopian people love.

Irgo, a cool and creamy yogurt, is used along with ayib to refresh diners’ palates and lessen the spicy heat of the other dishes.



32/65

31

Coffee and

Snacks

3

C h a p t e r

F

or Ethiopians, snack time is a time for family, friends,

and neighbors to socialize. Ethiopian snacks centeraround coffee, a drink that has been a part of Ethiopian

life and culture for centuries.

The Birthplace of CoffeeHistorians believe that the first coffee trees origi-

nated in Kaffa, Ethiopia. In fact, the word “coffee” is

derived from Kaffa. Although the trees were part of the

Ethiopian landscape for hundreds of years, no one

thought to consume coffee beans until the third cen-

tury. According to Ethiopian legend, that was when a



33/65


Coffee has been grown in Ethiopia since the 6 th century, and even today itis the country’s most important crop.



34/65

Coffee and Snacks 33

goat herder noticed that his flock became frisky after

eating the beans. The goat herder tried them and liked

the way they helped him stay alert while he was tend-

ing his animals. Soon, people throughout Ethiopia

were snacking on coffee beans, which they ground androlled in animal fat. Even today, some Ethiopians enjoy

a similar snack made from ground roasted green coffee

beans and niter kebbeh.

Traders traveling the spice routes between East Africa

and the Arabian Peninsula spread the word about the

beans’ stimulating effect. Coffee soon became popular

in the Middle East and Europe. No one knows who first

used the bean as a drink, but many historians believe it

was an Ethiopian.

By the 6th century, Ethiopians were growing coffee.

It soon became Ethiopia’s most important crop and it

still is today. In fact, the coffee business employs about

25 percent of the Ethiopian people.Ethiopian coffee is known throughout the world for

its fine taste and delicious aroma. It is no wonder that it

is the Ethiopian people’s favorite drink. According to an

article on Ambassa, the Web site of an Ethiopian coffee

exporter, “Coffee is central to the lives of all Ethiopians.

In the countryside, where some people live a day’s walkfrom the main road, coffee is often the only beverage of

choice…. In the cities, as well as the countryside, coffee

is drunk with friends, family, on special occasions, or

simply out of choice. Coffee is everywhere!”12



35/65


The Coffee CeremonyCoffee is more than a beverage here. It is part of a social

ritual that many Ethiopians participate in at least once,

and sometimes three times, a day. When time permits,

friends and neighbors gather in the morning, at noon,

and in the evening to share news and to participate in

what is known as the coffee ceremony.

The ceremony begins with the roasting of coffee

beans. Traditionally, this is done in a flat pan with a

long handle. The hostess holds the pan over a tiny

charcoal stove and shakes the pan. The beans pop and

darken as they roast, releasing a delightful aroma.

When the beans are fully roasted, the hostess carries

them around the room waving her hand over them.

This ensures that the coffee’s rich perfume fills every

nook and cranny. Next, the

hostess grinds the beans,

using a mortar and pestle.The crushed beans are put

The coffee ceremony is anEthiopian social ritual that

begins with the roasting of thecoffee beans…



36/65


into a tall black clay pot called a

jebena (ja-be-na). Water is addedand the coffee is boiled. The host-

ess serves the coffee, which is

dark and strong, in little cups

similar to espresso cups. Rue, a

bitter herb, butter, salt, or honey

may be added to the coffee in

much the same way that North Americans add sugar. Sugar,

which did not arrive in Ethio-

pia until 1935, has only recently

become popular.

Traditionally, Ethiopians

drink three cups of coffee dur-

ing the ceremony. The first is thestrongest. The second and third

cups are progressively weaker.

This is because the original cof-

fee grounds are reused to make

the succeeding cups. The last cup

is believed to contain the soul of

the coffee, so drinking it is considered good luck.

“Ethiopians take the ceremony very seriously,”

explains Helen Bergen. “And it takes a long time. But

the coffee was worth waiting for. It was the best coffee

I ever tasted.”13

…and ends with the drinking of three cupsof coffee, which are poured from a jebena.



37/65


Spicy, Salty, or CrispyUnlike in the West, where pastries are often served with

coffee, in Ethiopia salty-spicy snacks accompany cof-

fee. In fact, Ethiopians rarely eat sugary treats. Popcorn

and kolo (koh-loh), a type of cracker, are among themost popular snacks here.

Ethiopian popcorn is similar to that eaten in North

America. However, since most Ethiopians do not own

a microwave oven, Ethiopians make their popcorn the

old-fashioned way, by cooking it in a long-handled pan

Spiced Popcorn

This is a spicy snack that is easy to make by using

microwave popcorn. You can add raisins to the

spiced popcorn if you like.

Ingredients2 bags, 3 ounces each, plain microwave popcorn2 tablespoons butter

½ teaspoon each of cayenne pepper, paprika,

and salt

¼ teaspoon each of cumin and garlic powder

Instructions1. Prepare the popcorn following the package directions.

2. Put the butter in a microwave-safe bowl. Melt the butter in

the mi

crowave.

3. Add the spices to the melted butter and stir. If the popcorn

is salted, do not add salt.

4. Put the popcorn in a large bowl. Pour the spiced butter

over the popcorn.

Serves 4.



38/65


39/65


Outside Influences

The cooking of most African nations has

been strongly influenced by the European

countri

es that coloni

zed them.

Ethi

opi

ai

sthe only nation in Africa that was never

colonized. Its mountains and deserts made

colonization difficult.

The Italians, however, did have some impact.

Italy invaded and occupied Ethiopia from 1935–1941.

Although Ethiopian cooks did not adopt Italian cook-

ing practices, many Italians remained in Ethiopia after

the occupation ended. They opened a number of

Italian restaurants in Addis Ababa, making pizza a

popular Ethiopian snack.



40/65


over a charcoal fire. This is not hard to do. First, niter

kebbeh is heated in the pan. When the spiced butter

is hot, the popcorn is added and the pan is covered.

The lid must fit securely so the kernels do not escape,

but not so tightly that steam cannot. The cook shakesthe pan as the popcorn pops. This keeps the kernels

from burning and ensures that each kernel is covered

with the spicy buttery taste of the niter kebbeh. When

the popping stops, the popcorn is topped with salt.

Sometimes raisins are added. The result is a multifla-

vored treat that tastes great with a cup of coffee.

The country of Ethiopia consists largely of mountains and desert.



41/65


Sambussas

Sambussas are another popular snack.

They are savory pastries stuffed with a

wi

de range of fi

lli

ngs.

Boi

led lenti

ls, chi

ck-peas, potatoes, vegetables, and ground

beef are all popular fillings. Once the

dough is filled, it is folded and fried until

it is golden.

Sambussas are fried pastries filled with anything from lentilsto meat.



42/65


Kolo is another coffee-time favorite. These crisp

spiced crackers look a lot like peanuts. Kolo is made of

wheat dough spiced with berbere. The dough is formed

into long narrow rolls, then cut into peanut-size pieces.

Traditionally, the dough is cooked on a griddle until itis crunchy, but it can be baked or fried.

Besides accompanying coffee, kolo is a popu-

lar between-meal snack. Young boys sell the treats,

wrapped in paper cones, on street corners and at train

and bus stations. Travelers often take kolo on long trips.

When stored in an airtight container, the little crackers

will not spoil or lose their crispness, and they are easyto carry. Ethiopians love their crunchy flavor. Wube,

an Ethiopian, warns: “Once you start eating them, you

can’t stop.”14

Dried Meat

Qwanta (ku-wan-ta), dried spicy meat similar to beef

jerky, is another popular snack. Qwanta is usually made

from beef, but it can also be made from goat or lamb.

The meat is rubbed with salt, berbere, and fragrant

spices such as fenugreek and cardamom. Then it is cut

into long thin strips and hung to dry on wires strung in

the sun. This takes one to three days. Ethiopians have

been drying meat in this manner for thousands of years.It is the oldest method of preserving meat known to

man.

Once all the moisture has been removed from the

meat, it is ready to eat. Or, it may be smoked over

a wood fire, then fried in niter kebbeh before it is



43/65


eaten. Either way, the end result is crisp and crunchy

with a zesty flavor that Ethiopians find hard to resist.

Food critic Robert Sietsema says qwanta tastes “much

chewier and tastier than fresh beef.”15

That may be why, in addition to snacking on it,Ethiopians use qwanta in fitfit. Sometimes they grind

qwanta into a powder and mix it in with shiro to make a

creamy nonvegetarian stew. Mesfin explains: “Qwanta

is mainly a snack food … It is very versatile and can be

consumed as it is, fried, cooked in sauce, or ground

into a powder and stewed.”16

Indeed, crispy snacks such as qwanta, kolo, andspiced popcorn are irresistible. It is easy to understand

why these snacks, accompanied by freshly brewed

local coffee, bring Ethiopians together.



44/65

43

Ethiopian hospitality is legendary, and guests are

always welcome. “At home, hospitality was our way

of life!” recalls Berhane Kitflom, an Ethiopian man who

now lives in Texas. “I can remember as a small boy that

my grandfather always brought a least one guest home

to share our meals with us. Sometimes, when no one

came, he sent someone out into the road to look for a

complete stranger to do the honors. Needless to say,few in our province remained strangers for long!”17

Such occasions as weddings, holidays, and birth-

days give Ethiopians a special chance to extend

their hospitality. In fact, guests are not only warmly

welcomed; they are hand fed their first bite of food.

Special

Occasions

C h a p t e r

4



45/65


At their wedding, the newlymarried couple practice gursha.



46/65

Special Occasions 45

This practice, known as gursha (gur-sha), begins when

the guests are seated. That’s when the hostess goes

around the table. She breaks off a tiny piece of injera,

wraps it around a choice bit of stew and places it directly

into the mouth of each guest. This tells the guests thatthey are welcomed and appreciated. “The custom,”

explains an article on Ethiopian Restaurant, a Web site

dedicated to Ethiopian food, “ is no different from a hug

between friends, no less bond affirming than a mother

feeding a child by hand.”18

Doro Wat If the occasion is a special one, a delicious chicken stew

called doro wat (do-roh watt) is likely to be the gursha

offering. “A festive meal without a richly flavored doro

wet [wat] is practically a contradiction in terms,”19

explains Mesfin.

Doro wat begins with chicken. Although packaged

chicken can be purchased in supermarkets in Ethiopiancities, Ethiopian cooks who live in small villages usually

buy a live chicken from an outdoor market. They

slaughter the bird at home, pluck the feathers, then

soak the chicken in water, lemon juice, and salt to

remove bacteria. Finally, they cut the chicken into eight

to twelve pieces. The thighs and legs, with their sweet

dark meat, are considered the choicest.

Doro wat is then prepared in the same way as other

wats, except about five minutes before the stew is done,

whole peeled hard-boiled eggs are added to the mix.

The eggs quickly absorb the flavor of the sauce and



47/65


Doro Wat

Doro wat is not hard to make, but it has many

steps and takes time.

Ingredients1 broiler chicken, 2–3 pounds, cut in 8 pieces

with skin removed

2 cups onions, chopped

¼ cup butter

1 cup chicken broth

1 cup water

juice of one lemon

2 tablespoons tomato paste4–6 whole hard-boiled eggs, shells removed

1 teaspoon each of ginger, paprika, cayenne

pepper, garlic, salt, and black pepper

Instructions1. Make several cuts in each of the chicken pieces with a

knife. Put the chicken in a bowl with the lemon juice, salt,

and 1 cup of water. Put in the refrigerator. Let the chicken

soak for 15–30 minutes

.

2. Put the butter in a stew pot, add the onions, and cook

them until they are browned.

3. Add the spices, tomato paste, and broth.

4. Dry the chicken parts and add them to the stew pot. Cover

the pot and cook on low for 20 minutes.

5. Add the hard-boiled eggs. Spoon the sauce over the eggs.

Cook covered on low until the chicken is done and the

sauce has thickened, about 10–20 minutes.

Serve over injera or other flat bread.

Serves 4–6.



48/65


As in many countries, Christmasand Easter in Ethiopia are special occasions that call forcelebration and special meals.



49/65


spices and the red color of the berbere. The finished

stew tastes of tender juicy chicken, stick-to-the-ribs

boiled eggs, and a myriad of hot and sweet spices.

“It is the first Ethiopian dish I ever had,” recalls chef

Samuelsson, “and I immediately liked the tender meat,

spicy eggs, and the flavorful sauce laced with berbereand ginger.”20

Doro wat is standard fare at almost every Ethiopian

festivity, including Christmas. In fact, many Ethiopians

give up meat for 43 days before Christmas for religious

reasons. On Christmas day, when they can eat any meat

dish they want, the most popular choice is doro wat.

The stew is also an Easter mainstay. Traditionally,

eggs represent rebirth, a concept closely connected

with Easter. The egg-filled stew is not only delectable;

it is also symbolic of the holiday.

Nutritional Problems

During the twentieth century, drought and

political unrest led to serious food short-

agesi

n Ethi

opi

a.

One hundred thousandEthiopians died because of food shortages

in 1973. Up to one million died between

1983 and 1985.

Things are better in Ethiopia today, but there are still

problems. According to the World Bank, one half of the

nation’s population is undernourished and 48 percent of

all Ethiopian children under age five are underweight.

Many groups throughout the world are helping Ethiopia.



50/65


Festive Breads

Although injera is the bread that Ethiopians eat every-

day, different types of dabo (da-boh), baked yeast

breads, are served on important occasions and holi-

days. There are many different kinds of dabo. They

can be made with wheat, chickpeas, or barley flour.

They can be dark or snow-white. Some are sweet-

ened with honey, while others are filled with a spicy

meat or chicken sauce. Defo dabo (de-foh da-boh), a

large white bread spiced with fenugreek, cumin, and

coriander and topped with black sesame seeds, is

among the most popular.

Special occasions would not be the same without

this large round bread, which measures about 24 inches

(60cm) in diameter. In fact, its size makes it perfect for

sharing. An article on Ethiopian Millennium explains:

“If there is one thing you are certain to find at every

An InterestingPractice

Before eating, Ethiopians perform a hand-

washing ritual. Each diner holds out their

right hand. The hostess pours water from

a beautiful jug over them and then offersa towel. Only the right hand is washed because Ethiopians

use only their right hands for eating. Using the left hand is

considered rude.



51/65


Honey Water

Although coffee is the most popular beverage in

Ethiopia, honey water is another popular snackdrink. It is served cold and is refreshing on a hot

day.

Ingredients4 cups water

4 tablespoons honey

Instructions

1.

Pour the honeyi

nto a pi

tcher or jar.

Add the water and sti

rwell. Make sure the honey is dissolved.

2. Cover the pitcher and refrigerate overnight. Shake well

and add ice before serving.

Serves 4.

Ethiopian household on every Ethiopian occasion, ithas got to be defo dabo… Ethiopians have a tradition

of sharing meals with neighbors and friends. At times

of festivals and national holidays, defo dabbo comes

to strengthen this tradition because it is baked in large

quantity to serve up as many people as possible.”21

Before defo dabo is baked, the dough is wrapped in

enset (en-set) leaves and placed in a clay pan. Enset is abananalike plant that grows in most Ethiopian gardens.

Ethiopians use starch from the plant to make pancakes,

cereal, and dumplings. They use the leaves to cook

and wrap food in. This is cheaper and better for the



52/65


Honey and water are mixed tomake a cool and refreshing drink.



53/65


environment than plastic wrap. Plus, the leaves impart

a fruity scent to the food they encase, and they help

keep the bread moist and flaky.

When the bread is done, the eldest member of the

household cuts it, giving each guest a slice. At weddings,

the fathers of the bride and groom share this honor. Itis part of a special ceremony in which the two fathers

give the bride a nickname that she will be called from

then on. Once the name is chosen, the fathers cut out

the center of the bread to form a ring. They hold the

ring in front of the bride’s face like a picture frame and

Kitfo

Kitfo can be served warmed or browned. This

version browns the meat. If you prefer it to beblander, use less spice.

Ingredients1 pound lean ground steak

½ onion, chopped

2 ounces butter

¼ teaspoon each of cayenne pepper, paprika,

coriander, garlic, and cinnamon

pinch of salt

Instructions1. Melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat.

2. Mix the salt and spices with the meat.

3. Brown the onions. Add the meat. Cook until the meat is

browned. Stir constantly to keep the meat from sticking.

Serves 4.



54/65


announce her new name. Then, pieces of the bread are

given to all the guests who say the bride’s new name as

they eat the bread.

Barely CookedKitfo (kit-foh) is another celebratory food that is often

served at weddings. It features freshly minced beef

combined with niter kibbeh, cardamom, ginger, black

pepper, salt, and mitmita (mit-mit-a), a super-hot

spice blend. Traditionally, the meat, which is eaten

almost raw, is bathed in niter kibbeh and heated just

long enough to warm it. It is quite similar to a raw meatdish popular in Europe called steak tartare.

According to a legend, Ethiopian warriors who

wanted to avoid cooking meat over a large fire, which

would attract the enemies, created kitfo. Many modern

cooks brown the meat before serving it. This lessens

the risk of food poisoning since cooking meat until it is

no longer red destroys harmful bacteria.

Whether browned or almost raw, kitfo is made

with the leanest, most-tender meat available. This is

usually steak. The meat is hand-minced until it is finer

than ground meat, then smothered with niter kebbeh

flavored with lemon verbena. It is a spice that tastes

and smells like lemons. The meat tastes extremely richand buttery with a red-hot flavor and a citrusy aroma.

It is usually served with spiced collard greens and

cooling ayib. A saucer full of mitmita accompanies

the meat. Brave Ethiopians sprinkle it on the already

fiery meat to add mouth-scorching flavor. Food writer



55/65


Jason Sheehan describes his first taste of kitfo: “It was

delicious, a pure kick of blood and protein topped with

spiced Ethiopian butter and laced with the wicked

heat of a smoky-hot chile… I never had anything like

it before, nothing even close. But I know that I loved it,that it was one of those flavors that hits you in the back

of the head like a lightning bolt.”22

Indeed, Ethiopian festive foods are filled with excep-

tional flavors. Sharing these foods with guests is a

way of life here. Hostesses even go as far as feeding

their guests their first bite of food just to make them

feel welcome. It is no wonder that the warm atmo-sphere and the delectable foods make all occasions

memorable and fun.



56/65

55

Metric Conversions

1 ounce (oz.) = 28.0 grams (g)8 ounces = 227.0 grams1 pound (lb.)

or 16 ounces = 0.45 kilograms (kg)

2.2 pounds = 1.0 kilogram 1 teaspoon (tsp.) = 5.0 milliliters (ml)1 tablespoon (tbsp.) = 15.0 milliliters1 fluid ounce (oz.) = 30.0 milliliters1 cup (c.) = 240 milliliters1 pint (pt.) = 480 milliliters1 quart (qt.) = 0.96 liters (l)1 gallon (gal.) = 3.84 liters

8- inch cake pan = 20 x 4-centimeter cake pan9-inch cake pan = 23 x 3.5-centimeter cake pan11 x 7-inch baking pan = 28 x 18-centimeter baking pan13 x 9-inch baking pan = 32.5 x 23-centimeter baking pan9 x 5-inch loaf pan = 23 x 13-centimeter loaf pan2-quart casserole = 2-liter casserole

1/4 inch (in.) = 0.6 centimeters (cm)1/2 inch = 1.25 centimeters1 inch = 2.5 centimeters

212º F = 100º C (boiling point of water)

225º F = 110º C250º F = 120º C275º F = 135º C300º F = 150º C325º F = 160º C350º F = 180º C375º F = 190º C400º F = 200º C

Mass (weight)

Liquid Volume

Pan Sizes

Length

Temperature



57/65

56

Notes

Chapter 1: The Basics of Ethiopian Cooking 1. Marcus Samuelsson, The Soul of a New Cuisine . Hoboken,

N.J.: John Wiley & Sons, 2006. p. 145.

2. Amy Pataki, Ethiopian House, www.ethiopianhouse.com.

3. Zel and Reuben Allen, Vegetarians in Paradise, “Dining in

Paradise,” www.vegparadise.com/dining4.html. 4. Iyassu Demissie, Iyassu, “Ethiopian Food,” www.geocities.

com/ethiopianfood.

5. Helen Bergan,Climbing Kilimanjaro. Arlington, VA: BioGuidePress, 1999. p. 11.

6. Marcus Samuelsson, The Soul of a New Cuisine . p. 34.

Chapter 2: Favorite Foods 7. Daniel J. Mesfin, Exotic Ethiopian Cooking . Falls Church, VA:

Ethiopian Cookbook Enterprises, 2006. p. xvi.

8. Linda Walton, Messob Ethiopian Restaurant, “EthiopianHistory,” www.messob.com/3rd_street_villager_2.html.

9. Ethiopian Millennium.com, “Shiro,” www.ethiopianmillennium.com?/SHIRO.html.

10. Daniel J. Mesfin, Exotic Ethiopian Cooking . p. 189. 11. Marcus Samuelsson, The Soul of a New Cuisine . p. 52.



58/65

57

Chapter 3: Coffee and Snacks 12. Ambassa Enterprises, “Coffee in Ethiopia,” www.telecom.

net.et/~ambassa/page6.html.

13. Helen Bergen, personal interview with the author, LasCruces, New Mexico, March 16, 2007.

14. Wube.net, “Recipes,” www.wube.net/Recipes9.html

15. Robert Sietsema, Village Voice, “Queen of Sheba,” May 10,2001, www.shebanyc.com/VillageVoice1.html.

16. Daniel J. Mesfin, Exotic Ethiopian Cooking . p. 30.

Chapter 4: Special Occasions 17. Quoted in Queen of Sheba Restaurant, “Welcome Guests,”

www.thequeenofsheba.com.

18. Ethiopian Restaurant.com, “Gursha,” www.ethiopianres-taurant.com/gursha.html.

19. Daniel J. Mesfin, Exotic Ethiopian Cooking . p. xix.

20. Marcus Samuelsson, The Soul of a New Cuisine . p. 245.

21. Ethiopian Millennium.com, “Habesha Bread (Defo Dabo),”

www.ethiopianmillennium.com/DEFO_DABO.html.

22. Jason Sheehan, Westword, “Stranger in a Strange Land,” June29, 2006, www.westword.com/2006-06-29/dining/stranger-in-a-strange-land/2.

Notes



59/65

58

alicha: Stew that does not contain berbere.

ayib: (also spelled iab) Spiced cheese similar to

cottage cheese.

berbere: Hot spice blend made with red chiles.

clarified butter: Butter in which all milk fat andliquids have been removed.

dabo: Yeast bread.

defo dabo: Yeast bread popular on special occasions.

doro wat: Stew containing chicken and hard-

boiled eggs.

enset: A plant similar to the banana plant.

ferment: Become sour.

fitfit: A stew containing injera.

gursha: Practice in which guests are hand-fed their

first bite of food.

injera: Flat spongy bread.

irgo: Ethiopian yogurt.

jebena: Tall coffee pot with a rounded bottom.

kitfo: Minced raw or lightly cooked meat.

Glossary



60/65

59

kolo: (also spelled qolo) Spiced crackers.

mesab: Basket-like dining table.

mitad: Large pan in which injera is made.

mitmita: A very hot spice blend.

mortar: A bowl used for grinding spices.

niter kebbeh: (also spelled nit’ir qibe) Spiced

clarified butter.

pestle: A mallet-like tool used for grinding spices.

qwanta:Dried meat similar to jerky.

shiro: Spicy powder made of ground peas.

teff: Grain used to make injera.

wat: (also spelled wett/wet) Stew containing berbere.

Glossary



61/65

60

Books

Dan Elish, Eleanor Ayer, Daniel Benjamin, S. Gish,

Ethiopia. New York: Benchmark Books, 2007. Discusses

all aspects of Ethiopia, including history, geography,

and culture.

Yvonne Young Merrill, Hands-on Africa: Art Activities

for all Ages . Salt Lake City: Kits Publishing, 2000. Talks

about Africa with accompanying art activities, includ-

ing a section on Ethiopia.

Constance Nabwire, Bertha Vining Montgomery,

Cooking the East African Way . Minneapolis: Lerner

Publications, 2001. A children’s cookbook offering reci-pes from East Africa, including Ethiopia.

Jeffrey Zuehike, Ethiopia in Pictures . Minneapolis:

Lerner Publications, 2004. Introduces the reader to

Ethiopia through pictures.

Web SitesFact Monster, “Ethiopia,” (http://www.factmonster.

com/ipka/A0107505.html). Information on Ethiopian

history, geography, culture, economics, and daily life

written for kids.

For Further Exploration



62/65

61

Food in Every Country , “Food in Ethiopia,” (www.

foodbycountry.com/Algeria-to-France/Ethiopia.

html). Gives information about the geography, history,

and food of Ethiopia with recipes.

Rainbow Kids, “Let’s Learn about Ethiopia,” (www.rain-

bowkids.com/HTMLFiles.aspx?page=EthiopiaAct). A

Web site just for kids that offers coloring activities

about Ethiopia, including the Ethiopian flag.

Tourism Ethiopia , (www.tourismethiopia.org). This

Web site maintained by the Ethiopian government has

lots of information, maps, and pictures of Ethiopia.

For Further Exploration



63/65


64/65

63

National dish, 18–21Niter kebbeh, 15–17Nutritional problems,

48

Onions, 21

Pastries, 36, 40Pataki, Amy, 9, 11Peanuts, 25Peppers, 13, 25Pestle, 15Pizza, 38Plates, 11Popcorn, 36, 39Pork, 19

Potatoes, 25Poverty, 24

Qwanta, 41–42

Recipesayib, 29collard greens, 26doro wat, 46eggs firfir, 16

honey water, 50kategna, 8kitfo, 53spiced popcorn, 36

Red chile peppers, 13

Religious beliefs, 18–19,22, 48

Ritualscoffee ceremony,

34–35handwashing, 49

Royal family, 4Rue, 35Rural villages, 24

Sama, 25Sambussas, 40Schools, 24Sheehan, Jason, 53Shiro, 22, 23, 25, 27Sietsema, Robert, 42

Snacks, 36–37, 39–42Social rituals. See Rituals

Solomon (king), 4Special occasions

foods for, 45–53hospitality during,

43–45, 54Spice blends, 4, 12–15,

50

Spiced butter, 15–17Spiced popcorn, 36,39

Split peas, 27Steak, 52–53

Stewsalicha, 22doro wat, 45–46, 48fitfit, 22shiro, 22–23, 25, 27vegetarian, 22, 25–27

wat, 18–21Straw baskets, 10Sugar, 35

Tables, 10Teff, 4, 6, 7

Urgo, 28Utensils, 11

Vegetables, 25 Vegetarian dishes, 22,25–27

Villages, 24

Walton, Linda, 22 Wat, 18–21 Weavers, 10 Weddings, 52–53 Women

cooking by, 21 weavers, 10

Yams, 25 Yogurt, 28, 30

Index



65/65

About the AuthorBarbara Sheen is the author of numerous works of

fiction and nonfiction for young people, including

more than a dozen books in the Taste of Culture series.

Cover: © Jim Sugar/CORBIS

AP Images, 6 (left), 44© Adrian Arbib/CORBIS, 20© Robin Avila, Austin, TX, 11, 19, 23, 28Bruno Barbier/Robert Harding/Jupiter Images, 47The Gale Group, 5© Gavin Hellier/JAI/Corbis, 35© Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Corbis, 34

© 2007 Royalty Free/iStockphoto.com, 6 (right), 7, 14,26, 30, 40

© Jacques Langevin/CORBIS SYGMA, 37© Carl & Ann Purcell/CORBIS, 12© Ricki Rosen/CORBIS SABA, 9© 2007 Royalty Free/Shutterstock.com, 10, 24, 27, 32,

51

© Jim Sugar/CORBIS, 7Tony Waltham/Robert Harding/Jupiter Images, 38–39

Picture Credits

Documents

Foods of Ethiopia (Gnv64)