INSTRUCTION MANUAL

FOR

SEWING MACHINE

FREE-ARM MODEL 1640

INDEX

Section 1. FEATURES AND PARTSFront View 2Rear View 3

Convertible Extension Plate 4

Attaching Extension Plate 4

Electrical Equipment 5Sewing Light 5Accessories 6

Section 2. BASIC INFORMATIONNeedle. Thread and Fabric Chart 7Changing Presser Foot 8Changing Needle 8Removing Needle Plate 9Removing Bobbin Case 9

Section 3. THREADING MACHINEWinding Bobbin 10Threading Bobbin Case 11Inserting Bobbin Case 11Threading Upper Thread 12Bringing Up Lower Thread 13Twin Needle Upper Threading and Sewing 13Rewinding Bobbin When Machine Is Threaded 14

Section 4. CONTROLS

Checking Tension of Upper Thread 15Checking Tension of Lower Thread 16Feed Cover 17Adjusting Pressure For Regular Sewing 17Adjusting Pressure For Embroidery, Darning and Sewing on Buttons . 17Stitch Length 18Reverse Stitching 18

Section 5. SEWINGPreparing To SewStitching TipsKeeping Stitching StraightPin BastingStraight and Zigzag SewingStretch and Decorative Stitches

Instructions For Sewing On Stretch Materials 21Multiple Zigzag Stitch 21Scallop Stitch Double Overlock Stitch 21Satin Stitch 22Triple Seam Stitch and Rickrack Stitch Stretchable Blindstitch . . . 22Smocking Stitch, Overcast Stitch Box Stitch 22ASuper Stitches (Swan, Tlip, Dog) 22A

Section 6. FINISHESButtonholesBlindstitching (Hems)Sewing on ButtonsAdjustable Cording and Zipper FootCloth GuideQuilting Guide

Section 7. CARE AND MAINTENANCECleaning Shuttle Hook and Race .

Oiling

2324

2526

2626

27

. 27,28

Section 8. PROBLEMS AND PROBABLE CAUSES 29

19

19A

2020

20

—1A—

FEATURES AND PARTS Section 1

FRONT VIEW

6

1. Face Plate

2. Thread TakeUp Lever

3. Pattern Panel4, Stitch Selector Dial

5. Stitch Width Dial

6 Stitch Length Dial & Reverse

Push Button

7. Handle On Top Cover

Hook Cover

Thread Tension Dial

Tension Check SpringThread Guide (G)Needle Bar Thread GuidePresser Foot Thumb Screw

Presser FootNeedle Plate

8.

9.

10.

11.12.13.14.

15.

—2—

16. Hand Wheel17. Stop Motion Knob18. Cover Plate19. Bobbin Holders20 Bobbin Winder21. Spool Pin22. Top Plate23. Thread Guide and Bobbin

Winder Thread Tension

24. Patch-O-Matic Darner

Sew Light Switch

Presser Foot Lifter

Extension Plate

Free Arm

Steel Plate

Needle Clamp ScrewThread Cutter

Section 1I

REAR VIEW

2021 24

1

18

5

19 —

31

29

25.

26.

27.

28.

29.

30.31.

—3—

Section 1

CONVERTIBLE EXTENSION PLATE

The built-in, snap-up extension plate quickly converts the sewing platform from

free arm to flatbed.

Attach ing the Extension Plate

For ordinary sewing, the extension plate will make your work easier.Carefully place the extension plate on the free arm, levelling the plate with thefree arm, inserting pins on plate into corresponding holes on base of arm.

Fg 1 A

—4.--

Section 1

he

ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

Plug foot pedal cord into your wall outlet, and connector to terminal box

on machine as shown in Fig. 2A

CAUTION: When not in use, please be sure to disconnect the cord plugfrom electrical outlet.

SEWING LIGHT

Sewing light is located directly over the

needle so as to better illuminate stitching

area. Turn sew light switch on and off

behind face plate.

To replace bulb, turn light off, and open

face plate. Unscrew bulb as you do a

conventional light bulb. Place new bulb

in socket and screw in place. (Fig. 2)

CAUTION: Please be sure to disconnect

the cord plug from electrical outlet before

replacing bulb.Fig. 2

—5—

Section 1

ACCESSORI ES

1. Plastic Oiler (sealed and filled)

2. Package of Needles (5 straight

needles and 1 twin needle)

3. Large Screw Driver

4. Small Screw Driver

5. Quilting Guide

6. Cloth Guide with Thumb Screw

Button Sewing Foot

Buttonhole Foot (on machine)

Zipper Foot

Felt Washers (2) for spool pins

Bobbins (3)

Zigzag Foot (on machine)

Seam Ripper

Feed Cover

E WWcIACHINE

iffPLESaI

7

7.8.9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

—6—

The needle and thread you choose depends upon the fabric you are stitching.

The correct needle size is important to avoid damaging the fibers of light weight

or tightly woven fabrics and to prevent needle breakage when stitching heavy or

stiff fabrics.

Needlesize

Thread Fabric

• polyester chiffon, fine silk, tricot, lingerie

9 • cotton covered polyester fabrics, sheer lace, net, voile,

fine • fine mercerized cotton (70-100) organdy• silk A

• polyester light weight knits and jersey, silk,

1 1 • cotton covered polyester batiste, taffeta, satin, lace, crepelight • mercerized cotton (50-60)

• silk A

• polyester double knits, linen, poplin, gingham,

14 • cotton covered polyester pique, seersucker, velveteen, light

medium • mercerized cotton (50) weight wools, fine corduroy• silk A

• polyester heavy wools, corduroy, felt,

16• cotton covered polyester terrycloth, canvas, upholstery,

h• heavy duty mercerized (40) and drapery fabrics

eavy • silk D (buttonhold twist fortopstitching)

Use only style 15 x 1 (European equivalent 705> on this machine. This style or

system is the most commonly used on household sewing machines.

• Always use same type and size of thread in both needle and bobbin.

• Always use a sharp needle. A blunt point can cause skipped stitches or snag

the fabric. Chemical finishes and man-made fibers blunt the needle faster.

• Never use a bent needle.

• If your machine is skipping stitches, replace the needle before looking for

trouble elsewhere.

Special Needles with blue shaft or ballpoint are particularly designed to sew knits

and stretch fabrics. Such special needles can prevent sewing from skipping stitches

and damaging stretch fabrics. Available in size 9, 11, 14 and 16.

NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART

—7—

Section 2

CHANGING PRESSER FOOT

Raise needle to its highest position byturning hand wheel toward you. Raisepresser foot by lifting Presser Foot

Lifter located on back of machine.

Loosen thumb screw and remove

foot.

Place grooved side of selected presserfoot against presser bar. Tightenscrew securely with screwdriver.

Do not operate machine with presserfoot lowered unless fabric is betweenpresser foot and fabric feed.

CHANGING NEEDLE

Raise needle to its highest position byturning hand wheel toward you.Loosen Needle Clamp Screw andremove needle.

Place new needle so its flat side facesback. Push up into needle clamp asfar as possible. Tighten screw with ascrewdriver.

Turn hand wheel toward you ona complete rotation to be sure needle iscorrectly positioned.

Fg 3A

Fig 3 B

—8—

REMOVING BOBBIN CASE

Raise needle to its highest position by turning hand wheel towardyou. Open Hook Cover.

Lift open hinged latch of bobbin case (Fig. 10) and pull case straightout of machine (Fig. 11).

Bobbin will remain in case as long as latch is open. To removebobbin, hold bobbin case down, close latch, and bobbin will fall out.(Fig. 12)

REMOVING NEEDLE PLATE

(NOTE: If extension plate is on machine, remove it.)a) Raise Needle to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.b) Op . the hook cover towards youc) Remove the screws from needle plate. Then remove needle plate.

,5ltiOfl bYRaiseFoot

remove

d pre5jghtefl

r.

presser,tween

itiOfl by

j you.

w and

e facesmp aswith a

a corndle is

—9—

THREADING MACHINE Section 3

WINDING BOBBIN

Place spool of thread on spool pin andthread as shown in illustration. Besure thread goes under tension disc onBobbin Winder Thread Tension. (Fig. 1)

Put thread through one ot the holes inempty bobbin from inside to outside.Push bobbin down firmly on bobbinspindle at top of machine with slot inbobbin fitting into spring on bobbinspindle. Push bobbin and spindle tothe right. (Fig. 2)Release sewing mechanism by holdingHand Wheel and turning Stop MotionKnob toward you (Fig. 3). Hold endof thread and press down on footpedal as when sewing. Release endof thread as soon as winding starts.Run machine slowly to wind bobbinevenly.

Bobbin winder will stop itself whenbobbin is full. Pull bobbin and spindleback to the left until a click is heard.(Fig. 4) Break off thread and removebobbin. Tighten Stop Motion Knob.

Winding Bobbin Evenly

If bobbin winds unevenly, adjustthread guide by loosening screw atbase of guide:• if more thread winds at top of

bobbin, shift thread guide slightlydownward.

• if more thread winds at bottom ofbobbin, shift thread guide slightlyupward. (Fig. 5)

• after adjustment tighten screw.

Bobbin Winder Stop

For a fully wound bobbin, theknob should just slightly overlapedge of bobbin.If too far out, thread will extendbeyond bobbin. Loosen screw attop of knob and turn plasticknob to adjust; tighten screw.Knob can also be adjusted to extend farther into bobbin for lessamount of thread. (Fig. 6)

Rear View of Machine

—10—

place bobbin in case without turning it around.Slide thread into slot in edge of case and drawspring. (Fig. 14)

pull out thread to check that bobbin turns clockwise. (Fig. 15)

INSERTING BOBBIN CASEBe sure that 6 inches of thread extends outof bobbin.

Hold bobbin case so long finger on casepoints up. Open latch. (Fig. 16)

Slip case over center pin in shuttle andpress in place until long finger entersnotch. Release latch, and press down.(Fig. 17)

THREADING BOBBIN CASE

Hold bobbin as shown in Fig. 13 so that thread goes over top of bobbin and away from you.

thread under tension

Fig 13 Fg14 Figl5

Close Hook Cover.

1 1

Section 3

THREADING UPPER THREAD

Raise presser foot and needle to theirhighest position by turning hand wheeltoward you.

Place thread on spool pin at back ofmachine. Pass thread through slots oftwo top thread guides (A), then downbehind arm thread guide (B> (Fig. 7)

Place thread around bottom of ThreadTension Dial (C) and slide it up betweentension discs (Fig. 8).

Hold thread stationary with right handand pull thread with left hand until checkspring wire loop (D) goes up above tophook (E).

Release thread so wire loop will springback into place and thread will slip intohook.

Lower presser foot.

Place thread behind arm thread guide (B),up through hole in take-up lever (F)theading from right to left, and back downbehind arm thread guide (B) again.

Draw thread down through thread guide

(G> and needle bar thread guide (H). Threadneedle from front to back. Pull threadtowards rear about 6 inches.

Side view of thread passing through tension discs for single (or normal> needle.

INCORRECT CORRECT

— Thread

Side view of thread passing through tension discs for twin needle.

INCORRECT CORRECT

:— Threads

F1g8

A

F

C

H

Fig 7

— Thread

H— Threads

BRINGING UP LOWER THREAD

Raise presser foot. Hold needle threadloosely with your left hand. Turn handwheel toward you until needle movesdown and then up again to its highestposition, catching bobbin thread andbringing it up through hole in needle plate.(Fig. 18)

To prevent thread from slipping out ofneedle when you begin sewing, pull boththreads out about 6 inches and place underpresser foot toward rear of machine.(Fig. 19)

TWIN NEEDLE-UPPER THREADING AND SEWING1. Attach zigzag presser foot if not already on machine.2. Follow threading instructions for single needle withthese exceptions:

A — Place thread, matching or contrasting in color,on both spool pins.B — Pass threads through arm thread guide.C — Down around tension discs with one threadpassing between the back discs and the otherbetween the front discs.

D — Treat both threads as one, until you reach theneedle.E — Pass one thread through each needle eye. (Fig.20)

3. Set Zigzag Stitch Dial in middle of indicationmarks (Fig. 21) otherwise needle will break. Turnhand wheel slowly toward you to make certain twinneedle dows not hit needle plate.4. All normal stitches and all stretch stitches can bemade with the Twin Needle.

—13—

Fg 21

SECTION 3

RE-WINDING BOBBIN WHEN MACHINE IS THREADED

If bobbin runs out of thread while sewing, it is not necessary to completely unthread

machine to re-wind bobbin.

Simply bring thread from needle up through top thread guide in front of machine (Fig.

9). Insert end of thread from inside to outside in one of the holes of empty boddin.

Proceed according to instructions starting in paragraph 2, page 10 section 3 (Winding

Bobbin).

If you wish to wind a bobbin while sewing, here is another method:

Place spool of thread on second spool pin and proceed as shown in illustration on page

10 Section 3 (Winding Bobbin). DO NOT RELEASE SEWING MECHANISM by turning

stop motion knob toward you. In this way, while you continue to sew, bobbin will be

filled.

Fg 9

—14—

An important point when sewing is

to make sure that the thread tension

is correct. The Thread Tension Dial

is marked with 0 to 9. Normal thread

tension is obtained by setting the Dial

at 5 against the top hook. Your

machine has been tested using the

thread supplied, and with the Dial

set at 5. It might prove necessary to

adjust the tension slightly when using

threads or fabrics of different thick

ness.

By Turning Thread Tension Dial

counterclockwise close to 0, upper

thread will be pulled down below and

lower thread lies straight. By turning

dial clockwise close to 9, upper

thread will be straight and lower

N thread forms loops on the top side.

(Fig. 22)

Thread tension is correct when stitchTighter knots occur in the mid-layer of ma

terial. Before sewing garment, try to

make a sample on a double folded

scrap of material with which to test

various tensions by sewing to make

certain tension is correct.

A

TENSION OF UPPER THREAD

Correct Stitch

Upper Thread Tension too strong

Upper Thread Tension too weak

Fig. 22

—15—

Section 4

CHECKING TENSION OF LOWER THREAD

If you are unable to balance the stitch by adjusting tension on theupper thread, you may have to make a slight adjustment in thebobbin tension.

Take out bobbin case, remove bobbin and clean out any dust or lintwhich has collected around the case.

Turn screw on bobbin case slightly in either direction using the smallscrew-driver (Fig. 24):

To increase tension — turn screw slightly to the right (clockwise).

To decrease tension — turn screw slightly to the left (counterclockwise)

If stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessaryto loosen tension on both top and bottom threads.

An easy test for checking tension balance:

Fold fabric on the bias and stitch (12 stitches/inch) 4” in fromfold.

Grasp stitching and pull with a snap(Fig. 25)

• if both threads break (even though not attensions are balanced.

• if upper thread breaks — loosen top tension.• if lower thread breaks — tighten top tension.

*

E

Fg 25

CHECKING TENSIONS

to make threads break.

the same place) —

—16—

(A)

Fig 27

Fig 28 Fig 29

JSTING PRESSURE FOR REGULAR SEWING

)ressure of the presser foot must be regulated for different types of fabric to, proper feeding. To adjust pressure push down outer ring (A; Fig. 27)tch-OMatic Darner with thumb and forefinger. The center button (B,!7) will spring up and then the pressure can be easily adjusted by beingd down partially for light fabrics (Fig. 28), or all the way down for mediumvy fabrics (Fig. 29).

STING PRESSURE FOR EMBROIDERY, DARNING AND SEWING ON BUTTONS

the outer ring (A, Fig. 27) down with thumb and index finger and thebutton (B, Fig. 27) will pop up. The pressure will be completely released.

acCe5505there is a feed cover, to sew mebroidery, darning, mond

x wing On buttons which need no feeding to fabrics, use this “FEEDor

cover or) needle plate

le to its highest position.• needft.0

studs and one back stud into holes on needle plate, as shown in-( two

26.

be sure normal sewings, should always take this feed cover, that is, without

—17--

Section 4

STITCH LENGTH

Length of the stitch is regulated by Stitch Length Dial (Fig. 30)

Turn the dial to right to lengthen and to left to shorten the stitch. Near point AFig. 30 is the shortest stitch and near point B Fig. 30 is the longest.

In general, short stitches are best for light weight fabrics; longer ones for heavyfabrics. Most normal sewing is done with stitch length set about 12 stitches perinch.

Stitch Length (Approximate)

Marks on dial- — — — — —( point A ) ( Point B

Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 36 20 12 9 7

REVERSE STITCHING

Press in center button of Stitch LengthDial (Fig. 30) and hold for reversestitching. Fabric will immediately startfeeding backwards. Release button andmachine will resume normal forwardstitching.

A few reverse stitches are very usefulfor fastening beginning or end of seamsand darts without having to tie threads.

V

Fig3

—18—

1-0 SEW

r t that you practice all of the various instructions given in this Section beforeuse your sewing machhe to make a garment.

th 5traighlt stitch, zigzag stitch and then try all of the decorative and stretchand finally a buttonhole.

Thread machi. .e.

Wind bobbin and place it in bobbin case. Insert into shuttle. Bring up lower thread.%j pull both threads out about six inches and place under presser foot to rear ofmachine.Set machine for stitch length, stitch width, desired stitch and tension.place fabric under presser foot.

6. Lower presser foot by releasing presser foot lifter.7. Commence sewing slowly turning hand wheel toward you while gradually pressingdown on foot pedal.

3. Run machine at slow even speed, until you get the “feel” of it.. Allow fabric to feed forward with movement of fabric feed. Don’t pull or holdfabric back as needle may bend or break. Instead, guide fabric gently with yourhand in front of presser foot.

When you stop sewing, raise needle to its highest position by turning hand wheeltoward you. Lift presser foot lifter, gently pull fabric and threads backward.Pull threads over thread cutter and press down to cut.

1

Section 5

STITCHING TIPS

• Check that dials are set correctly for the stitch you want — stitch pattern,stitch length, and stitch width.

• Use proper needle and thread for your fabric. Needle should be straight,sharp and inserted properly. Change your needle frequently.

• Test machine stitch on double thickness of a scrap of the fabric you plan touse. Adjust machine for length of stitch, tension and pressure, if necessary.

• Place fabric under presser foot with bulk of material to the left of needle.For most seams, place right edge of fabric on the 5/8” seam marking onneedle plate. Pull thread ends behind presser foot. (Fig. 31) Lower presser foot.

• To prevent fabric from being drawn into needle hole when you beginstitching, start about %“ from edge of fabric.

• To reinforce beginning and end of seams, backstitch about 1/2 from edge offabric.

• Regulate speed of machine by increasing or decreasing pressure on footpedal. Run machine at a slow even speed. I.

• Allow fabric to feed forward with the movement of the fabric feed. Don’tpull or hold fabric back as needle may bend or break. Instead, guide fabricgently with your hand in front of presser foot.

• When finished stitchinq, turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle to itshighest position before removing fabric from under presser foot. Raise presserfoot. Pull threads over thread cutter located at back of presser bar, and pressthreads down to cut. (Fig. 32)

F;• 31

—19 A—

Keeping Stitching Straight

Your machine has three aids to help keepyour stitching straight, whether stitchingseams or doing decorative stitching.1) Numbered guidelines on the right

side of needle plate. (Fig. 33)Numbers indicate distance, in eighthsof an inch, from the needle. For5/8” seam, line up your fabric withthe numbered 5/8 guideline.

2) Quilting attachment (Page 26)3) Cloth guide attachment (Page 26)

Pin Basting

Place pins at right angles to presser footwith pins just nipping into fabric atstitching line. Never place pins onunderside of fabric in contact with fabricfeed or so presser foot rides over headof pin. (Fig. 34)

STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG SEWING

For sewing straight stitch and zigzag,Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) atBy turning Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35)clockwise, the stitch width will be increased; and counter-clockwise will bedecreased. Set Stitch Width Dial at bottomindication mark for straight stitching.

r pfl!H== I

Fig 33

Fig 34

—20—

Section 5

STRETCH AND DECORATIVE STITCHES

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SEWING ON STRETCH MATERIALS1. Attach zigzag presser foot.2. Thread machine with same weight and type of thread on top and in bobbin.

(preferably polyester thread)3. Set Thread Tension Dial at 5. If tension is too tight it will draw the material.4. On exceptionally heavy material, release the pressure on the presser foot to

allow machine to feed evenly.5. If stitches skip, refer to NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC chart on page 7 to select

correct size needle and suitable thread. Use special needle with blude shaft orballpoint needle.MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITCH

1. Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) at

2. Turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to shorter stitch length.3. Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to desired width.Use to overcast edges of seams, facings and hems to prevent raveling and to keeplightweight knits from rolling. Besides knits, use for edges of thin, easily frayedfabrics which have a tendency to pucker when overcast with ordinary zig-zag.Also suitable for overcasting heavy fabrics such as woolens and terrycloth.

Use for attaching elastic. Mark elastic and garment waistline in fourths. Placeelastic over fabric and pin together at the markings. Take a few stitches to anchorelastic to fabric, then stretch elastic between pins as you sew.

Mend tears and patches on knits and lightweight fabrics with stretch zig-zag ratherthan regular zig-zag.

SCALLOP STITCH

1. Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) at 32. Turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to fine stitch (sating stitch).3. Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to desired width.

Closely spaced zig.2ag stitches which form a smooth, satin-like surface are calledsatin stitches. Use for monograms, appliques and embroidery.

DOUBLE OVERLOCK STITCH

1. Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) to2. Turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to lengest stitch.3. Turn Stitch Width Dial (C Fig. 35) to 3-5.

This stitch is used to avoid fraying the edge of material. Sew near the edge of thematerial, and trim the excess portion as close as possible to the edge of the stitchafter sewing up the seam.

—21—

Turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to longest stitch.

Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to “0” position for triple seam stitch, to

wider zigzag width for rickrack stitch.

Stretch straight stitch is a triple lock stitch, combining stretchability and strength.

Use for stitching regular seams in knits and stretch fabrics.

Use for stitching seams in woven fabrics that receive a lot of strain when worn,

such as side seams, crotch seams, and armholes in sportswear and children’s

clothes.

Also use for topstitching when you want a heavier row of stitching without using

buttonhole twist.

Guide fabric gently allowing machine to make the back-and-forth stitches that

give stretch to the seam.STRETCHABLE BLINDSTITCH

Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) to

Turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to desired length.

Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to desired width.

This stitch is specially designed for sewing and invisible hem on stretch fabric.

Fold material into size of hem desired and fold back as shown below with 1/5

inch (5 mm) overlapping on bottom fold of edge.

Start to sew on the fold, having narrower zigzag stitches sewn on hem edge and

wider zigzag stitches slightly touching folded top.

Unfold the fabric, and you will have an invisible hem.

H1r

SATIN STITCH (See Fig. 35)

1 Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) at

2 Turn Stitch Length Dial (A) to shortest indication mark.

Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to desired width.

Closely spaced zigzag stitches which form a smooth, satin-like surface are

called satin stitches. May be used for monograms, appliques and embroidery.

TRIPLE SEAM STITCH AND RICKRACK STITCH

i. Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) at

2.

3.

1.2.3.

1.

2.

3.

—22—

Section 5

SMOCKING STITCH

1. Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) to

2. Turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to longest length.

3. Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to wider zigzag width.

Smockin9 can be a very time consuming process when done by hand. However,

you can obtain the same heavy stitched look with your machine, using stitches

with either a single or double needle.

Use for a yoke, insert, or band on baby clothes, little girls’ dresses, smocks and

lingerie.

Space rows of stitches on crosswise fabric grain.

OVERCAST STITCH

1. Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) to

2. Turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to longest length.

3. Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to No. 3-5.

Useful for overcasting rough edges of stretch fabric, or sewing narrow seams in

garments. The seam is formed and finished in one operation. Use for sportswear,

bathing suits and hand-knitted garments.

BOX STITCH OR ELASTIC STITCH

1. Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) to

2. turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to 1-3.

3. Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to No. 3-5.

The box stitch is used for special edge finishing and special stretch stitch for sewing

elastic such as sportswear, girdles and other garments that require stretch.

SUPER STITCHS-SWAN, TULIP, DOG STITCH

1. Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) to or or

2. Turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to longest length.

3. Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to widest width.

—22A—

tension.Set Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to buttonhole symbol, and Stitch WidthDial (B Fig. 35) to Button Hole Symbol..

.Mark fabric, with pencil or tailor’s chalk, center line of buttonhole andlength of the buttonhole desired, 3/8”-1/4” lonaer than ourside diameter ofthe button.

.Place fabric under buttonhole foot with center line marked on fabric incenter of buttonhole foot.

6 Turn Stitch Selector (C) to marking No A EJ position and start to sewleft side along line.

7. Stop with needle on left side of stitch (Step 1, Fig. 37)8. Raise needle, and turn Stitch Selector (C) to marking No. B” “. Sew a

few stitches to make bar tack. (Step 2).9. Turn the Stitch Selector (C) to marking No. C “Li” Sew the right side.

of the buttonhole guiding fabric so machine sews parallel to the left side

(Step3).

io. Turn Stitch Selector (C) to marking No. B “‘ Take a few stitches makingthe bar tack to close other end of buttonhole. (Step 4).

11. Cut slot in center of buttonhole with seam ripper.

NOTE: Make sure Stitch Selector (C) is firmly positioned in either markingC “ I “, B ““ or A “ [ “, and always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of the same fabric you are sewing.

BUTTONHOLES

2.

1 Turn Hand Wheel toward you and raise needle to its highest position.Attach buttonhole foot shown in Fig. 36.

Turn Thread Tension Dial clockwise between 5 and 4 to slightly tighten thread

(STEP 1)

heJ

(STEP 2)

here

(STEP 3) (STEP 4—23—Fig 37

Section 6

BLINDSTITCHING (HEMS)

1. Turn Stitch Selector (C Fig. 35) at

2. Turn Stitch Length Dial (A Fig. 35) to

desired length.

3. Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) to

desired width.

Blind stitch consists of six straight stitches

and one zig-zag or blind stitch. It provides

a durable hem that is almost invisible when

using thread the same color as the fabric.

Only the blind stitches will show on right

side of garment. Best suited for straight or

slightly curved hems.

Turn up hem the desired width and press.

Turn raw edge in ‘/2” and press or baste

in place. Fold hem back against right side

of garment with top edge of hem extending

about %“ to right of garment fold.

(Fig. 38)

Place garment under presser foot so that

straight stitches will fall on hem edge and

zig-zag stitch just catches one thread of

the folded edge. Guide fabric evenly while

stitching or use cloth guide as an aid. For

better control, use low speed setting.

Press hem.

Fig 38 For a less bulky hem in heavy fabrics

finish raw edge of hem with tape or lace

to eliminate turning in raw edge. Fold

fabric so straight stitches will fall on tape

or lace.

—24—

Seion 6

SEWING ON BUTTONS

You can sew both two and four holes ofbuttons with your machine.

Change presser foot to the button sewingfoot (Fig. 39) and lower drop feed byplacing feed cover on needle plate (SeePage 1 7). Set Patch -0-Matic Darner sopressure is completely released. (See Page17, A. Fig. 27.) Set Stitch Selector (C Fig.35) at Place button under button sewing foot so that needle enters left holefreely. Set Stitch Width Dial the same widthas the hole in the button. Turn Hand Wheeltoward you and test carefully that theneedle goes through the center of first onehole and then the other. If necessary, adjustzigzag width. Then sew 5 to 6 stitches.

Turn Stitch Width Dial (B Fig. 35) forstraight stitching and take about 3 stitchesto lock the thread.

Thread Shank

Sew-through buttons on coats and jacketsshould have a thread shank to make them

stand away from the fabric.

Place a straight pin or sewing machineneedle on top of button between theholes, and sew over the pin or needle.(Fig. 40>

Pull thread to back of button and windaround stitches to form a firm shank.

Tie thread ends securely.

PIg 39

FIg 40

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Section 6IADJUSTABLE CORDING AND

ZIPPER FOOT

The zipper foot allows you to stitchright next to a raised area such as azipperorcording. (Fig.41)

Attach zipper foot and set dials forstraight stitching. To adjust zipperfoot for side of needle: loosen screwat back of foot and slide foot to theside so that needle passes throughnotched side of foot. Lower needleslowly to be sure it will not hit zipperfoot, and tighten thumb screw. Zipperpackage will contain easy to followinstructions for stitching.

CLOTH GUIDE

This attachment is most convenientfor guiding the fabric to keep thestitching parallel to edge of the fabric.(Fig. 42).

Use for stitching seam widths thatare wider than markings on needleplate, and for making wide hems.Also use as a guide for blindstitching.Fasten cloth guide to machine byinserting thumb screw into hole inbed of machine. Adjust cloth guideto desired distance from needle andtighten screw.

QUILTING GUIDE (Fig. 43)

Use for stitching parallel lines withoutmarking fabric when quilting, shirring,smocking, or making rows of decorativestitches.Loosen presser foot thumb screw andinsert prongs of guide between screwand presser foot. Slide end of guideto the distance you wish to space therows of stitching. Lower presser footand stitch first row.Move fabric over until guide rests onfirst row of stitching and stitch secondrow. Continue stitching rows in samemanner. (Fig. 44)

Fig 43

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When thread is tangled in the race or dust gets into the space between shuttlehook and shuttle race, follow this procedure:—Raise needle to its highest position, open hook cover and remove bobbin case.Tilt head back on its hinges.

2 Release the levers (A> at both sides of shuttle race (Fig. 46) by pushing themoutward, then remove the front ring (C) and the shuttle hook (D) with yourfingers (Fig. 47).

.With small brush thoroughly clean under feed dog. Remove lint and threadfrom all parts of shuttle and wipe with lightly oiled cloth.4. After shuttle race and shuttle hook have been cleaned, put them back in reverseorder.

5. Snap levers (A> into place as seen in Fig. 46.6. Put bobbin into case and place case into shuttle.

OILING

Your machine needs to be oiled onceevery week if used frequently andevery day if machine is in continualuse. If machine has not been used fora period of time, oil before youstart sewing.

Place a drop of best quality sewingmachine oil at each of the pointsshown in the pictures:Inside Face Plate

— swing Face Plateopen and oil all moving parts atfriction points. (Fig. 48>

CLEANiNG SHUTTLE HOOK AND RACE

Fig 46C

Fig 47

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Sectiori7

Under Top Plate — Remove Top Plate by unscrewing two screws and oil points on

top of machine head. (Fig. 49)

It is important that you do not give the machine too much oil which will only

run out and spot your fabric. After oiling machine, sew a few rows of stitches on

a scrap of material to be sure that machine sews cleanly. Also wipe off any excess

oil from top of machine.

Do not oil the motor. Lubrication is not required as motor has been permanently

oiled.

Raise needle to its highest position and remove rear plate by

unscrewing two set screws on it. Oil the points as indicated.

(Fig. 50)

B. Open Hook Cover and press it down to get a better view to oil

the points as indicated. (Fig. 51)

Fig 49

Underside — A.

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PROBLEMS — and PROBABLE CAUSES Section 9

Problem Probable Cause Correction

If Machine Thread or lint inBinds raceway

See instruction, page 28.

Skipping Bent needle Discard and replace.

Stitches Needle placed in- See instruction page 8.correctly in clamp

Too fine a needle See needle and thread chart,

for thread being used page 7

Irregular Upper thread tensionStitches too loose

Tighten upper tension.

See threading instruction,Improper threading page 12.

Bobbin not wound Rewind bobbin, page TOevenly

Uneven Stitches Pulling or holding Avoid pulling or holding

material material, just guide it.

Not enough tension Increase tension.on upper thread

Poor quality thread Try different thread.

Needle too fine for See needle and thread chart,

thread being used page 7.

Refer to threading instructions.Upper Thread Improperly threadedBreaking

See page 12.

Loosen tension on upper threadToo much tension by turning thread tension dial

to lower number.

Starting with take-up Always start sewing with take

in incorrect position up lever in highest position.

Improper setting of Refer to needle setting in-

needle struction. See page 8.

Bent needle or eye of Insert new needle.needle too sharp

Bent or blunt needle Insert new needle.

See tension adjustmentMaterial Tensions too tightPuckering

page 15 and 16.

Dull needle Insert new needle.

Stitch length too long Reduce stitch length.

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