Geology and Geographic Location of Popular US and Canadian Climbing Areas

Canada

Unknown Frontier

Most of Canada has not been explored for climbing. Some routes

and “spots” do exist but not as plentiful as USA. Some places are

very remote and require guides both native and conventional mountain guides to get to plus a lot of back-

country knowledge.

Geology of Canada

Almost all of the rock formations in Canada are from glacial influence

with some, more towards the eastern shore, are eroded by sea water and

wind.

Squamish BC

• Grand wall• Most popular area in

Canada• Granite rock formed to

present day condition by glaciers.

• British Colombia center for Canadian Climbing

United States

United States

Glaciers

• Picture showing the glacial coverage of the US and Canada.

• Most Climbing areas with glacial influence were covered in this period around 18,000 years ago.

Desert Areas

• Sandstone• Usually large crack

systems• Weathered by erosion,

wind and water• Softer rock• Very dry and hot

Yosemite Valley

• Small crystals in granite

Yosemite Valley

• Largest granite rock feature in the USA

• Very “sandpapery” feel to rock

• Up to 3000 feet tall• Glacial and water

formed• Sierra Nevada area-

east central California

Devils Tower

• 1280 feet tall• Hardened center of a

volcano• Igneous rock type• Weathered by water and

wind • All surrounding earth

material eroded away leaving present condition

• Crack and chimney climbing like no other

The Tower Myth• Devil's Tower, Wyoming, a

volcanic plug or neck. In Kiowa Indian mythology it was said that: Once upon a time seven little girls were playing in the woods far from home and they came upon some bears that chased after them. They found refuge on a great rock, that rose into sky with them on it, making them into stars. The bears tried to pursue them, but all their efforts were in vain. You can still see the struggle and their claw marks in the rock that makes up Devil's Tower.

Northeast-Shawangunks“Gunks”

• Largest climbing area in the northeast with over 1,200 established and recognized routes.

• Located in the Catskill Mountain area.

• Quartzite rock type• Water erosion and human

impact are the biggest factors in the changing landscape.

• Result of glacial scarring of surrounding land and waterways.

South

• Hueco Tanks Texas • Eroded by water• Pooling water creates

“Hueco’s” both on vertical rock and on the ground

South East USA• Largest known climbing

area is the Red River Gorge• Located in Kentucky’s

Daniel Boon National Forest

• Mostly limestone sedimentary rock

• wind and water eroded• Largest amount of natural

rock arches in a small area 100 arches

• Pocketed rock in some areas

Geologic and Geographical “oddity” of Minnesota

MinnesotaMinnesota is the only state where you can find every type of rock available

to climbers that are present at mainstream climbing areas.

Professional climbers from all over come to MN to train because of the variety of rock available to them at such short distances. Minnesota is

viewed in the climbing community as the geologic and geographical

“oddity” of America.

Taylor’s Falls

• Basalt rock type• “Greasy” feel—

smooth• Formed by river

erosion also creating odd “potholes” in area as deep as 80-120 feet deep.

Barn Bluff

• Old limestone quarry where surrounding earth was removed to get to stone.

• All human formation

• Located in Red Wing MN.

• Note- pictures shows access issues in Minnesota climbing areas.

Blue Mounds

• Quartzite rock type

• Multi colored

• Large 1-2 mile long outcropping of rock up to 100 feet tall.

• Located in flat prairie land in southwest MN.

• Odd formation brought on by the regression of the glaciers in area.

North Shore (Palisades head & Shovel Point)

• Volcanic rock • Eroded away by 1

mile high glaciers and wind and water from the resulting glacial melt.

Carlton peak and Mystical Mountain Zone

• Both are Anorthosite rock type

• Characterized by large sharp glass like crystals

• Carlton is highest point in MN about 900 feet above sea level

• MMZ is longest climbs in MN around 130+ feet.

• Very remote• Formed by glacial activity in

area and some water erosion

ELY

• Extremely remote climbs

• Virtually unexplored• Range from 30-110

feet tall• Black granite(Gabro)

to basalt/greenstone/ anorthosite mix for rock type.

OverallAs a general view of North America

most climbing areas have been effected by glacial activity while the

stragglers being wind and water erosion. Geographically you can

place glaciers at every point where rock formations are especially in the

northern areas. There are also similarities in rock type from Canada to the US. On the human aspect most

climbers tend to live close to their favorite climbing area or rock type.