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sewdaily.com PAGE 1 OF 36
© F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved.
F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
Project photo on page 65; instructions on page 113 of Stitch Winter 2014.parka
glamorous patchwork
PATTERN
by TINA LEWIS
Velvet and a patchwork of brilliant silks turn a warm, utilitarian parka into a stunning evening jacket. Vivid silk lining turns back at the cuffs and makes a snapped flap over the zipper. Insulated with batting, the parka has a shaped hem, standing collar, and front pockets.
PHOTO BY JACK DEUTSCH
WINTER 2014
sewdaily.com
patternGETTING STARTED BASIC TECHNIQUES AND TERMS YOU’LL NEED TO KNOW FOR THE PATTERN YOU HAVE DOWNLOADED.
BUTTON + BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT MARKS Solid lines indicate buttonholes. A large open circle is the button symbol and shows placement.
CUTTING LINES Multisize patterns have different cutting lines for each size.
PLACE ON FOLD BRACKET This is a grainline marking with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern. Place on the fold of the fabric so that your finished piece will be twice the size of the pattern piece, without adding a seam.
GRAINLINE The double-ended arrow should be parallel to the lengthwise grain or fold unless specifically marked as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be diagonal.
NOTCHES Notches are triangle-shaped symbols used for accurately matching seams. Pieces to be joined will have cor-responding notches.
DARTS Dashed lines and dots mark darts. The dashed lines show where the stitching will be, and the dot shows the position of the dart point (signaling the point, at the end of the dart, where your stitching should end).
PATTERN DOTS Filled circles indicate that a mark needs to be made (often on the right side of the fabric) for placement of elements such as a pocket or a dart point. Mark by punching through the pat-tern paper only, then mark on the fabric through the hole.
SLASH MARKS A dashed line (some-times appearing with pattern dots) indicates an area to be slashed. Further instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions.
PATTERN SYMBOLS + MARKINGSASSEMBLING FULL-SIZE PATTERN PRINTOUT
1 | When prepar-ing to print the PDF, make sure that you are printing it at 100% and that there is no scaling. Check the settings for page scaling (should be “None”) and check the preview to make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make sure that the box labeled “Auto-Rotate and Center” is unchecked (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another PDF reader, check for similar settings).2 | To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square should be 2" × 2" (5 × 5 cm).3 | To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page.4 | The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol-low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern.
LAYOUT, MARKING + CUTTING GUIDELINES
1 | Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. 2 | If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the project instructions if you are unsure. 3 | Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.4 | Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless a crosswise or bias grainline is present. 5 | Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric unless otherwise noted.6 | Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out of your fabric and interfacing.7 | Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed.8 | Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.
TEST SQUARE2" 2" [5 5 CM]
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxxX
L
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
© F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved.
F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
PAGE 2 OF 36
WINTER 2014
sewdaily.com PAGE 3 OF 36
cutting layoutWINTER 2014
© F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved.
F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
56" mainXS, S
Glamorous Patchwork Parka56" main
XS-S 1 3/4 yd
BACK (D)
SIDE (C)
POCKET (G)
LEFT FRONT (A)RIGHT FRONT (B)
SLEEVE (H)
POCKET (G)
CO
LLAR
(F)
YOKE (E)
09-06-14
Patchwork Parka56” main
XS-S 1 3/4 yds
selvedges
fold
56”mainXS, S
Selvedges
Fold
56" mainM, L, XL
Glamorous Patchwork Parka56" main
M 2 ydsL 2⅛ ydsXL 2¼ yds
BACK (D)
SIDE (C)
POCKET (G)POCKET (G)
LEFT FRONT (A)
RIGHT FRONT (B)
LEFT FRONT (A)
SLEEVE (H)
POCKET (G)
CO
LLA
R (
F)
YOKE (E)
fold fold
selvedge
selvedges
selvedge
09-06-14
Patchwork Parka56” main
M 2 ydsL 2 1/8 ydsXL 2 1/4 yds
56”mainM, L, XL
Selvedges
Fold
Selvedge
Fold
Selvedge
sewdaily.com PAGE 4 OF 36
cutting layoutWINTER 2014
© F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved.
F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
93" battingXS, S
Glamorous Patchwork Parka93" batting
XS-S 1¼ yd
BACK (D)CO
LLAR
(F)
LEFT FRO NT (A)
SIDE (C)
YOKE (E)
FRONT FLAP (I)
SLEEVE (H)
LEFT FRONT (A)RIGHT FRONT (B)
selvedges
fold
09-06-14
Patchwork Parka93” batting
XS-X 1 1/4 yds
93”battingXS, S
Selvedges
Fold
93" battingM, L, XL
Glamorous Patchwork Parka93" batting
M-XL 1½ yd
BACK (D)
CO
LLAR
(F)
LEFT FRONT (A)RIGHT FRONT (B)
LEFT FRO NT (A)
SIDE (C)
YOKE (E)
FRONT FLAP (I)
SLEEVE (H)
selvedges
fold
09-06-14
Patchwork Parka93” batting
M-XL 1 1/2 yds
93”battingM, L, XL
Selvedges
Fold
sewdaily.com PAGE 5 OF 36
cutting layoutWINTER 2014
© F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved.
F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
54" liningXS, S
Glamorous Patchwork Parka54" lining
XS-S 1¾ yd
BACK (D)
LEFT FRO NT (A)
RIGHT FRONT (B)
LEFT FRONT (A)
SIDE (C)
WIND GUARD
FRONT FLAP (I)
YOKE (E)C
OLL
AR (
F)
SLEEVE (H)
09-06-14
Patchwork Parka54” lining
XS-S 1 3/4 yds
54”liningXS, S
selvedges
fold
Selvedges
Fold54" liningM, L, XL Glamorous Patchwork Parka
54" lining
M 2 yds L 2⅛ yds XL 2¼ yds
BACK (D)
LEFT FRONT (A)RIGHT FRONT (B)
FRONT FLAP (I)
SLEEVE (H)
CO
LLA
R (
F)
YOKE (E)
SIDE (C)
selvedges
fold
54”liningM, L, XL
09-06-14
Patchwork Parka54” lining
M 2 ydsL 2 1/8 ydsXL 2 1/4 yds
Selvedges
Fold
20" interfacingXS, S, M, L, XL Glamorous Patchwork Parka
20" interfacing
XS-M 1⅜ yds L-XL 1½ yds
LEFT FRONT (A)
RIGHT FRONT (B)
LEFT FRONT (A)
FRONT FLAP (H)
Yoke
(E
)
COLLAR (F)
Wind Guard
selvedge
selvedge
09-06-14
Patchwork Parka20” interfacing
XS-M 1 3/8 ydsL-XL 1 1/2 yds
20”interfacingXS, S, M, L, XL
Selvedge
Selvedge
sewdaily.com © F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved.
F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use.
PAGE 6 OF 36
parkaglamorous patchwork
PATCHWORK PARKA
YOKE (E)cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 interfacing on foldcut 1 lining on fold
cut 1 batting on foldXS, S, M, L, XL
PATC
HW
OR
K P
AR
KA
PO
CK
ET (G
)cu
t 4 m
ain
(cut
2, c
ut 2
rev
erse
)XS
, S, M
, L, X
L
PATC
HW
OR
K P
AR
KA
BAC
K (D
)cu
t 1 m
ain
on fo
ldcu
t 1 li
ning
on
fold
cu
t 1 b
attin
g on
fold
XS, S
, M, L
, XL
PATCHWORK PARKA
COLLAR (F)cut 1 main on foldcut 1 lining on fold
cut 1 interfacing on foldcut 1 battling on fold
XS, S, M, L, XL
PATCHW
OR
K PA
RK
A
SIDE (C
)cut 2 m
ain (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 batting (cut 1, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
snap
PATCHWORK PARKA
LEFT FRONT (A)cut 1 contrast, right side upcut 1 lining, wrong side up
cut 1 battingcut 1 interfacing, glue side up
XS, S, M, L, XL
flap
pla
cem
ent
XLLMSXS
PATCHWORK PARKA
RIGHT FRONT (B)cut 1 contrast, right side upcut 1 lining, wrong side up
cut 1 battingcut 1 interfacing, glue side up
XS, S, M, L, XL
PATC
HW
OR
K P
AR
KA
FRO
NT
FLA
P (I
)cu
t 2 li
ning
(cut
1, c
ut 1
rev
erse
)cu
t int
erfa
cing
(glu
e si
de u
p)cu
t 1 b
attin
gXS
, S, M
, L, X
L
ease
PATCHWORK PARKA
SLEEVE (H)cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 batting (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)XS, S, M, L, XL
GLAMOROUS PATCHWORK PARKA
1a 1b 1c 1d
2a 2b 2c 2d
3a 3b 3c 3d
4a 4b 4c 4d
1e 1f
2f2e
3e
4e
5a 5b 5c 5d 5e
3f
1e 1f
2f2e
3e 3f
4f
5f
WINTER 2014
GLAMOROUS PATCHWORK PARKA
1a
PATCHW
OR
K PA
RK
A
SIDE (C
)cut 2 m
ain (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 batting (cut 1, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
1b
PATCHW
OR
K PA
RK
A
SIDE (C
)cut 2 m
ain (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 batting (cut 1, cut 1 reverse
XS, S, M, L, XL
1c 1d
PATCHWORK PARKA
YOKE (E)cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 interfacing on foldcut 1 lining on fold
cut 1 batting on foldXS, S, M, L, XL
1d
PATCHWORK PARKA
YOKE (E)cut 1 main on fold
cut 1 interfacing on foldcut 1 lining on fold
cut 1 batting on foldXS, S, M, L, XL
1e1e
PATC
HW
OR
K P
AR
KA
PO
CK
ET (G
)cu
t 4 m
ain
(cut
2, c
ut 2
rev
erse
)XS
, S, M
, L, X
L
1f1f
PATCHWORK PARKA
COLLAR (F)cut 1 main on foldcut 1 lining on fold
cut 1 interfacing on foldcut 1 battling on fold
XS, S, M, L, XL
2a
PATCHWORK PARKA
COLLAR (F)cut 1 main on foldcut 1 lining on fold
cut 1 interfacing on foldcut 1 battling on fold
XS, S, M, L, XL
2b
2c 2d
PATC
HW
OR
K P
AR
KA
BAC
K (D
)cu
t 1 m
ain
on fo
ldcu
t 1 li
ning
on
fold
cu
t 1 b
attin
g on
fold
XS, S
, M, L
, XL
2d
2e2e
PATC
HW
OR
K P
AR
KA
PO
CK
ET (G
)cu
t 4 m
ain
(cut
2, c
ut 2
rev
erse
)XS
, S, M
, L, X
L
2f2f
3a
3b
3c 3d
PATC
HW
OR
K P
AR
KA
BAC
K (D
)cu
t 1 m
ain
on fo
ldcu
t 1 li
ning
on
fold
cu
t 1 b
attin
g on
fold
XS, S
, M, L
, XL
3d
XLLMSXS
3e3e
3f3f
4a
4b
4c 4d
flap
pla
cem
ent
4d
flap
pla
cem
ent
4e
PATC
HW
OR
K P
AR
KA
FRO
NT
FLA
P (I
)cu
t 2 li
ning
(cut
1, c
ut 1
rev
erse
)cu
t int
erfa
cing
(glu
e si
de u
p)cu
t 1 b
attin
gXS
, S, M
, L, X
L
4f
5a
ease
PATCHWORK PARKA
SLEEVE (H)cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 batting (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)XS, S, M, L, XL
5b
PATCHWORK PARKA
LEFT FRONT (A)cut 1 contrast, right side upcut 1 lining, wrong side up
cut 1 battingcut 1 interfacing, glue side up
XS, S, M, L, XL
5c 5d
snap
PATCHWORK PARKA
LEFT FRONT (A)cut 1 contrast, right side upcut 1 lining, wrong side up
cut 1 battingcut 1 interfacing, glue side up
XS, S, M, L, XL
PATCHWORK PARKA
RIGHT FRONT (B)cut 1 contrast, right side upcut 1 lining, wrong side up
cut 1 battingcut 1 interfacing, glue side up
XS, S, M, L, XL
5d
PATCHWORK PARKA
RIGHT FRONT (B)cut 1 contrast, right side upcut 1 lining, wrong side up
cut 1 battingcut 1 interfacing, glue side up
XS, S, M, L, XL
5e
PATC
HW
OR
K P
AR
KA
FRO
NT
FLA
P (I
)cu
t 2 li
ning
(cut
1, c
ut 1
rev
erse
)cu
t int
erfa
cing
(glu
e si
de u
p)cu
t 1 b
attin
gXS
, S, M
, L, X
L
5f