HARBORS Magazine, Fall 2011

Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle.

HARBORS

HA

RBORS

ww

w.harborsm

agazine.comFall 2011

A Victorian Holiday

Victoria, BC

Salmon FishingIt’s Time to Think Pink

HistoricRoche Harbor

San Juan Island, WA

Sakinaw Lake LodgeSunshine Coast, BC

SLU: Chef Recipes

HolidayGift Ideas

Wine & CiderHarvestOlympic Peninsula, WA

S e e n i n A l l

the BeSt PlAceS

The most appealing destinations often aren’t just around the corner.

That’s why we’ve built Ranger Tugs® in the Pacific Northwest since 1958.

Each Ranger Tug features standard bow and stern thrusters for effortless

handling, coupled with fuel-efficient Yanmar® diesel power to bring even

remote anchorages within easy reach. A comfortable ride, generous interior

and standard equipment make the trip worthwhile. And, Ranger Tugs are

designed for easy trailering, to extend your horizons even further. No wonder

Ranger Tugs has emerged as a leading builder of family cruisers, and the

favored choice of experienced owners across North America and worldwide.

For a Ranger Tugs® dealer near you call 253.839.5213 or visit www.RangerTugs.com

R-21 ec

R-25 Sc

R-29

R-27

R-27

Cascadia is a non-profit whose mission is to promote the design, construction and operation of buildings in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia that are environmentally responsible,

profitable and healthy places to live, work and learn.

www.cascadiagbc.org

We must be the change we wish to see in the world.

Mahatma Gandhi

NW_Mag_ad.indd 1 10/22/2007 12:29:34 PM

HARBORS | 1The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

| HARBORS2 www.harborsmagazine.com

Sexy Seaside Escape

Simple, intimate and relaxing...indulge in a true state of bliss at Vancouver Island’s sexiest spa & culinary destination. Set on a pristine inlet only 5 minutes to the world famous Butchart Gardens with easy access to Victoria International Airport, the ferries and downtown.

We’re not a million miles away, it just feels like it!

brentwoodbayresort.com | 888.544.2079Victoria, British Columbia

Victoria’s Only Five Star Oceanfront Resort

Both adults and youth can learn to sail in historic wooden sailboats. Non-sailors can rent a rowboat and enjoy a floating picnic in the middle of the city. Do-it-yourselfers can build a wooden boat, cast a bronze oarlock, or learn classical navigation.

A short walk through Lake Union Park will take you from Kenmore Air’s Lake Union Terminal to Wooden Boat Paradise. Admission is FREE!

EXPERIENCE HANDS-ON HISTORY.

The Center for Wooden Boats is a hands-on maritime museum located on Seattle’s Lake Union, a stone’s throw away from

Kenmore Air. Rent a boat, learn to sail, or just marvel at the forces that make planes fly and

sailboats sail.

The Center for Wooden Boats | 1010 Valley Street, Seattle, WA 98109 | www.cwb.org

0 VISIT US ONLINE at WWW.CWB.ORG or ca l l 206-382-2628 0

HARBORS MAGAZINE SPECIAL!

20% OFF A CWB HOUSEHOLD MEMBERSHIP00

Makes a great gift for the boater or craft-person in your life! Members receive discounts on CWB workshops, 10% off merchandise and facility rentals, discounts at local retailers such as marine and woodworking supply stores, and many other great benefits! Call for more information.

This offer must be redeemed in person or by phone. Mention HARBORS Magazine to receive this discount.


Sexy Seaside Escape

Simple, intimate and relaxing...indulge in a true state of bliss at Vancouver Island’s sexiest spa & culinary destination. Set on a pristine inlet only 5 minutes to the world famous Butchart Gardens with easy access to Victoria International Airport, the ferries and downtown.

We’re not a million miles away, it just feels like it!

brentwoodbayresort.com | 888.544.2079Victoria, British Columbia

Victoria’s Only Five Star Oceanfront Resort

Both adults and youth can learn to sail in historic wooden sailboats. Non-sailors can rent a rowboat and enjoy a floating picnic in the middle of the city. Do-it-yourselfers can build a wooden boat, cast a bronze oarlock, or learn classical navigation.

A short walk through Lake Union Park will take you from Kenmore Air’s Lake Union Terminal to Wooden Boat Paradise. Admission is FREE!

EXPERIENCE HANDS-ON HISTORY.

The Center for Wooden Boats is a hands-on maritime museum located on Seattle’s Lake Union, a stone’s throw away from

Kenmore Air. Rent a boat, learn to sail, or just marvel at the forces that make planes fly and

sailboats sail.

The Center for Wooden Boats | 1010 Valley Street, Seattle, WA 98109 | www.cwb.org

0 VISIT US ONLINE at WWW.CWB.ORG or ca l l 206-382-2628 0

HARBORS MAGAZINE SPECIAL!

20% OFF A CWB HOUSEHOLD MEMBERSHIP00

Makes a great gift for the boater or craft-person in your life! Members receive discounts on CWB workshops, 10% off merchandise and facility rentals, discounts at local retailers such as marine and woodworking supply stores, and many other great benefits! Call for more information.

This offer must be redeemed in person or by phone. Mention HARBORS Magazine to receive this discount.


PREPARED FOR: DELTA VICTORIA OCEAN POINTEPUBLICATION: HARBORS

INSERTION DATE: OCT NOV DEC HOLIDAY ISSUESIZE: QUARTER PAGE 7.125” X 4.6875”

PREPARED BY: BRAVO ADVERTISING 250 590 1169

where ide as and people flourish, and perform ance flows.

D E LTA V I C T O R I A O C E A N P O I N T E R E S O R T & S PA

deltavictoria.com | 45 Songhees Road, Victoria 1-800-667-4677

s o m e m e e t i n g s a r e j u st d i f f e r e n t.

Visit deltavictoria.com to learn more about Delta Meeting Maestros plus download useful checklists and other tools to plan your next meeting or special event at Delta Ocean Pointe Resort.

BEST WESTERN PREMIER Prestige Oceanfront Resort1.877.737.8443 • 250.642.0805 • 6929 West Coast Road, Sooke BC V9Z 0V1

Stay 2 nights and receive a 3rd night free. Mention "HarborsPromo".Restrictions Apply. Expires December 15, 2011.

Indulge in a trulyWest Coast experience.

HarborsPromo ad aug11:tee-off full pg ad aug.30/06 8/25/11 2:19 PM Page 1


FeaturesFALL 2011

30 Kenmore Air Destination MapsSouth Zone / North Zone

34 Classy Working GirlsVintage service vehicles from Kirkland’s 2011 Concours d’ Elegance.

40

48

46

58

54

52

Olympic Peninsula Wine & Cider Harvest

The Broughton Archipelago

South Lake Union - Seattle

2011 Holiday Flyaways

Northwest Author Spotlight

Healthy Travel Tips

Touring and tasting across the Olympic Peninsula.

A boater’s paradise found, Broughton Islands, BC.

Holiday recipe favorites from 3 SLU chefs.

George Washington Inn, Outlook Inn and Sooke Harbour House.

Featuring author Eric Lucas.

Feeling fit in flight.

Cover PhotographVictoria, BC

Anne McKinnellwww.annemckinnell.com

Victoria Sparkles for the HolidaysBC’s most historic city brims with holiday spirit.10

16 Sakinaw Lake LodgeOne of the Sunshine Coast’s best getaways.

20 Historic Roche Harbor VillageFrom company town to affluent boating resort.

25 It’s Time to Think PinkPacific Northwest salmon fishing.


HA

RBORS

HARBORS The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

CONTACTP.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368

E: [email protected] W: www.harborsmagazine.com

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTORKatherine S. McKelvey GRAPHIC DESIGNDanny McEnerney EDITORAllen [email protected] CONTRIBUTORSAllen Cox Anne Norup Annika S. Hipple John Beatty Katherine McIntyre

Richard Walker Robyn Roehm Cannon Roger Ward Roy Stevenson Terry W. Sheely

ADVERTISING [email protected] WEB DESIGNworkin’ man creative PHOTO CREDITSCourtesy of: Tourism Victoria, Tourism BC, & Deddeda Stemler, pgs. 10-15 The Butchart Gardens (bottom), pg. 14 Terrance Lam (bottom), pg. 15 Sakinaw Lake Lodge, pgs. 16-19 Roche Harbor, Richard Walker, pgs 20-24 Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 25-28 Kirkland Concours d’ Elegance, pgs. 34-39 Bob Gassen. Pg. 37 Finnriver Winery, pgs. 41 (bottom), 42 (top right, bottom right), 44 (bottom left & right)Camaraderie Winery (top), pg. 43

Travis Scheidegger (bottom), pg. 43 Philippe Bishop, pgs. 41 (top), 42 (top left) Eaglemont (middle), pg. 42 Alpenfire, pgs. 42 (bottom left), 43 (bottom) John Beatty, pgs. 48-51 Heath Moffatt Photography, pg. 52 (top) Leslie Forsberg, pg. 54 Alan Bauer, pg. 55 George Washington Inn, pg. 58 Outlook Inn, pgs. 59, 60 (top) Roger Ward, pgs. 60 (bottom), 61

HARBORS magazine is printed by Mitchell Press, Vancouver, BC.

HARBORS magazine is printed on recycled paper.

DISTRIBUTED BY

PUBLISHED BY

SUBSCRIPTIONS AVAILABLE

www.harborsmagazine.com

© 2011 by All Ports Media Group

volume 2 issue 4

All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine or Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc.


This issue is special because it marks the end of our first year publishing HARBORS. It is the last issue of 2011 and a special holiday issue for October, November and December.

Fall is my favorite time of year in the Northwest, mainly because some of our best weather comes in the fall, sometimes bringing an Indian summer all the way to November. The fall air is fresh and crisp and cries for the unveiling of wool socks and sweaters. As quickly as the spring buds bloom, the fall leaves turn, bringing a few weeks of brilliant colors. I guess that is why our best holidays arrive just in time to cheer us up as the cold winter hits.

Holidays are supposed to be happy times full of cheer and thankfulness, but sometimes we lose that meaning in the commercialism that can often cause more stress than joy. Don’t allow the season of gift giving and gatherings with friends and relatives become a stressful time.

After all, we each have the ability to create our own experience, so let’s make this season a special time of wonderful holiday memories. One great way to spend the holidays is to get away someplace special or give the gift of adventure or leisure travel instead of buying and giving more stuff. This issue will give you some great ideas, whether at home or away, guar-anteed to create happy memories you can share with family and friends that will last forever.

With this issue I want to wish all of our readers and advertisers a very happy holiday season!

Thank you for a great year of recognition and support.

Enjoy the magazine, the view and your destination.

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

A Note from the PublisherHarbor Lights

HA

RBORS

Welcome to our holiday issue

of HARBORS magazine.


It’s all right to look down on Seattle .

We do every day.

866.435.9524KenmoreAir.com

950 Westlake Ave. N., Seattle

City Explorer flightseeing excursions offer the uniquely

Northwest thrill of flying off the water in the heart of one of the

world’s most beautiful cities. Offered daily, $89 per person.


Where did the summer go?

It’s always a short, sweet season in the Pacific Northwest—a time when we draw heavily on the karma we bank during the long winters. Folks from elsewhere can’t understand how we deal with those dreary months. But that’s because they’ve never plunged into the crystalline waters of Desolation Sound on a hot July afternoon. Or seen the sun glittering on a breach-ing orca in the San Juans. Or strolled through Victoria’s Bastion Square on a warm August evening.

We earn our summers here, which makes them that much more priceless.

At Kenmore Air, summer is naturally a very busy time. We fly almost as many passengers in July and August as we do the rest of the year. Our pilots, mechanics, reservationists and oth-ers work long, intense hours during the summer to get our customers quickly and safely to their vacation destinations

I won’t say that a slight relaxation in the pace as we ease into autumn isn’t welcome!

But in the Pacific Northwest fall is also a fantastic season to get away, and Kenmore Air remains your escape from the workaday world. How else can you leave the office on a Friday afternoon and be relaxing on the balcony of your suite overlooking Friday Harbor just an hour later? How else can you enjoy a day trip to Victoria that actually fits in a day? How else can you come into the heart of Seattle for all the dining, shopping and culture with none of the ferry lines, traffic or hassles?

So get the kids back in school. Settle into your post-summer routines. But don’t put yourself under house arrest. And don’t forget to celebrate the important things in life—birthdays and anniversaries, family and friends.

The Pacific Northwest is beckoning all fall, and we still know the way!

Todd Banks President

Welcome to Kenmore Air

Kenmore Air’s lowest fares are always

available online at KenmoreAir.com


The holiday spirit in Victoria reminds us of an old-time Charles Dickens novel.


It is no mystery why the winter-weary flock to Victoria for the holiday season. Twinkling lights and festive events transform this historic city into a magical wonderland. As an added bonus, it is snow free, there’s plenty to do, wonderful places to see and, with the temperate climate, you can hike and even play golf.

To put you in the holiday spirit, take a look at what’s going on in some of the city’s most historic places. Make your first stop at the majestic Fair-mont Empress Hotel overlooking Vic-toria’s scenic Inner Harbour. During

December, more than seventy decked-out trees transform this hotel’s stately halls into a lush, colorful forest. You can vote for best-trimmed tree, wheth-er whimsical, classical or offbeat. Fruit-cake, mince tarts, seasonal cookies and live music complement the traditional tea of scones, strawberry jam and clotted cream.

From the Empress, hop on a ferry at nearby Inner Harbour for a short ride to another historic spot, Point Ellice House and Gardens. Peter O’Reilly, a prosperous 19th century businessman, built this rambling Italianate house

on the shores of the Gorge Waterway. Then, in 1976, his grandson donated his family house and all its contents, which included everything from ar-moires to kitchen utensils, to the Province of British Columbia. Now, it is one of the largest collections of Victoriana in North America. Volun-teer Gail Simpson commented: “We decorate for Christmas in authentic Victorian style. They used fruit, feath-ers and lots of holly swags, but no flowers.” The house is open from the fourth week of November until the week before Christmas on Fridays and

Victoria Sparkles For the Holidays By Katherine McIntyre

British Columbia’s most historic city brims with holiday spirit.

Inside the Empress Hotel decorated for Christmas in authentic Victorian style.



Saturdays only. Naturally, tea is served.It wasn’t a house that Robert Dun-

smuir, a Scottish coal baron, built in the late 1880s—it was Craigdarroch, his own thirty-nine-room castle with its own dramatic history. Dunsmuir died before it was finished. His wife Joan lived in it, but family squabbles marred her enjoyment. Nearly aban-doned, it was taken over and restored by the Historical Museum Society. It takes a month for staff and volunteers to decorate their castle in Edwardian style. Nineteenth century toys peak out from under its Christmas trees. The dining room is set for an upper-class family Christmas dinner, with silver and china borrowed from the British Columbia lieutenant gover-nor’s nearby mansion. Evenings are sold-out events, when castle tour guides, dressed as house servants, gossip with guests about their former owners.

Look out for three French hens wearing berets or the hard-to-find twelve drummers tucked away at the exit of historic Butchart Gardens. Hens and drummers are scenes from Twelve Days of Christmas hidden in some of Butchart’s many separate gar-dens. And, in keeping with Christmas, enjoy carols and live music under the stars in the Piazza or go skating on their open-air rink. For small children, a ride on a hand-painted, hand-carved animal on the Rose Carousel makes their day. Butchart Gardens is open every day of the year including Christ-mas. Hungry? Fine dining is offered late afternoon to early evening and snacks are available in the coffee shop.

Back in Victoria, head to the Royal B.C. Museum’s Helmcken House, which puts on an old-fashioned Victorian Christmas every afternoon from December 17 to 31 (except the 25th). Helmcken House is one of the oldest homes in British Columbia still standing in it’s original location. At this pioneer-home-turned-museum, authentic Victorian traditions, activi-ties, crafts and trivia come alive, such

V I C T O R I A N R O M A N C E

Abigail’s boutique bed-and-breakfast hotel is a unique 1930’s Heritage Tudor Mansion that

defines romance, elegance and comfort.

You deserve to be spoiled.

Mention this ad at the time of booking and receive complimentary chocolate covered strawberries.

1 -800-561-6565W W W . A B I G A I L S H O T E L . C O Mk

k

V I C T O R I A – B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A

Abigail’s boutique bed-and-breakfast hotel is

Docket Number: 7343Client: AbigailÕs Hotel

Publication: Harbours MagazineDue: Dec. 3

Dimensions: 4.6875Ó x 4.6875ÓPrepared by: Primal Communications, (250) 754 8318

1 888 884 4044

Victoria, BC V8V 2Z8www.beaconsfieldinn.com

998 Humboldt St.

Beaconsfield Inn has created a uniquely festive package for the holiday season. Stay between December 1st and January 2nd at our five historic inn. Enjoy the ambiance of a historic home fully decorated for the festive season with glittering lights and sparkling, colourful decorations.

- 2 nights of pampered comfort at our heritage inn - Gourmet breakfast each morning - Dinner for two at one of Victoria’s award-winning restaurants- 2 tickets to The Butchart Gardens' "Magic of Christmas" display - 2 tickets to Craigdarroch's "Christmas at the Castle"

An Old Fashioned Christmas Package

From $239pp for 2 nights

based on dble occ

Relive the magicof Christmas as youexplore Victoria


through Chinatown or Old Victoria reveals the city’s hidden past.

On any evening of the week, snug-gle up under a warm blanket and step back in time. Black Beauty Car-riage tours will take you for a leisurely ride past thousands of lights twin-kling on every lamppost in the city’s downtown. Then, your horse drawn carriage will turn into the James Bay area for a carriage eye-view of extrava-

or after a play at neighboring Belfry Theatre. To catch the spirit of Christ-mas, take a stroll around the square and see how local businesses have prepared for the holidays.

If you are lucky enough to be in Victoria for a December weekend, the Royal Theatre has Christmas perfor-mances in its magnificently restored, 1917 award-winning theatre. Or, on a Friday or Saturday night during December, materialize at Victoria’s Visitors Centre to hunt for Christmas spirits in haunted alleys on a Ghosts of Christmas Past Walking Tour. For a less mysterious expedition, a walk

as the fact that in 1884 a Japanese mer-chant in Victoria was one of the first to sell the mandarin oranges that became the traditional item (otherwise, coal) in the toes of Christmas stockings.

For dinner, mingle with the locals at Stage Small Plates Wine Bar in Victo-ria’s historic Fernwood Village. Chef George Szasz has a chic new menu in his stylishly renovated 100-year-old red brick building. His is a tapas menu and, in the Christmas spirit, it is made for sharing. He matches five themed small plates with wines from his extensive cellar. Stage is a hub for casual diners, or for a quick bite before

Each year the 39-room Craigdarroch Castle is decorated for the holidays in Edwardian style.

(Top) Point Ellice House - A time capsule of household Victoriana, built in 1861. (Bottom) Helmcken House is currently claimed to be the oldest house in British Columbia that is open to the public, built in 1852.

Butchart Gardens by daylight. Butchart Gardens by night with holiday lighting.


gantly decorated heritage homes and gardens.

There are plenty of renovated mansions where visitors can stay for a night, a week or a month in historic Victoria. They provide upscale inn accommodations and gourmet break-fasts. Some come with special seasonal packages and have earned prestigious international awards. Others feature gardens, afternoon tea or a cocktail hour; all have comfortable sitting areas, and provide parking. Innkeepers are usually a fund of information about the best restaurants in the neighborhood, local excursions, golf courses, bus schedules, parks, music, art exhibitions and where to find a doctor, a car mechanic or a taxi.

And, if it snows, which is seldom, a little sprinkle just adds to the festive spirit.

Royal Theatre: www.rmts.bc.ca

Butchart Gardens: www.butchartgardens.comFairmont Empress Hotel: www.fairmont.com/empress

Point Ellice House and Gardens: www.pointellicehouse.caCraigdarroch Castle:

www.craigdarrochcastle.comRoyal B.C. Museum:

www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca Stage Small Plates Wine Bar:

www.stagewinebar.comChristmas Past Walking Tours:

www.discoverthepast.comBlack Beauty Carriage Tours: www.blackbeautycarriage.com

Victoria’s Historic Inns: www.victoriashistoricinns.com

Kenmore Air flies year round to Victoria on regularly

scheduled flights from South Lake Union.

The Royal Theater.

The ivy covered Empress Hotel on Victoria’s spectacular waterfront with a Victoria Harbour Ferry in route.


Sakinaw Lake Lodge

It takes a load of courage to move from the bright lights of a major city to a tiny cabin that’s completely off the public utilities grid and can only be reached by boat or seaplane. Now imagine sharing that space with two other people, a cat and two dogs. Sound crazy? On the face of it, per-haps, but not if you’re a family with a vision, like the Gabriels of Sakinaw Lake Lodge.

It’s been roughly three-and-a-half years since husband-and-wife team Garrett and Liza Gabriel, together with Garrett’s mother Donna, left their busy urban lives and purchased the small lodge on British Colum-bia’s Sunshine Coast, about two hours north of Vancouver by ferry and road. Garrett was a physiotherapist at Van-couver General Hospital, Liza worked in real estate, and Donna was a retired psychiatric nurse with a second career in retail and customer service. None of them had ever dreamed about run-ning a hotel—until fate dropped an

intriguing opportunity into their laps.Donna came across Sakinaw Lake

Lodge while visiting a friend further down the coast in Sechelt. When she learned it was for sale an idea began to germinate that soon captured the imagination of Garrett and Liza as well.

Less than six months later, the Gabriels packed up all their belong-ings, sold their homes in Vancouver, and embarked on a quest to transform Sakinaw Lake Lodge from a somewhat run-down property into the comfort-able retreat it is today.

The challenges were numerous. The lodge must supply its own energy, wa-ter, and sewage treatment, so Garrett learned to do electrical wiring, plumb-ing, and woodworking. Donna de-veloped her knowledge of gardening, while Liza took her cooking skills to a whole new level in preparation for hosting guests. Arriving in the middle of winter, the trio suffered through storms, including a blizzard that

How a family’s leap of faith created one of

the Sunshine Coast’s best getaways

By Annika S. Hipple

Owners Garrett & Liza Gabriel and Garrett’s mother Donna.


nearly stranded the women on the far side of the lake and a windstorm so powerful it blew a refrigerator and stove right off the deck. The family had to learn how to drive a boat, tow a barge loaded with fuel and handle all sorts of day-to-day challenges they’d never imagined. Sharing a cramped cabin, they learned to do without many things they’d taken for granted. Even now, 90 percent of their personal belongings remain in storage.

All that perseverance, creativity, and sacrifice paid off with impres-sive results. Sakinaw Lake Lodge may be an off-grid experience, but guests need not fear any lack of comfort or

(Top) Sakinaw Lake Lodge deck view. (Bottom) Cozy lake side patio promises

a romantic evening of relaxation.



amenities. Arriving at the lodge after the short trip across the lake from the access road—the Gabriels gladly ferry guests back and forth as needed—it takes no more than a moment to real-ize this is a very special place.

The lodge is charming and intimate, housing a maximum of 10 guests in two waterfront suites and a luxury sa-fari tent. The largest unit, the Cedar Suite, invites relaxation with wood-and-stone construction and earth-toned furnishings. The main room has a king bed and a well-furnished living area, as well as a full kitchen. There’s also a separate bedroom with queen bed and private bath. Picture windows and a deck with sliding doors com-mand a view of the lake.

Downstairs, the Pine Suite has a cozy bedroom with a queen bed and French doors opening directly onto the dock, so guests can step outside and dive straight into the water. The suite also includes a private bath and a living room with a foldout couch. Behind the main lodge building, the luxury safari tent has a queen bed, a private freestanding bathroom, and a deck with lake views. All units have access to an outdoor kitchen and seat-ing areas, and all stays except full lodge rentals include breakfast.

The Gabriels delight in getting to know their guests. “It’s the fact that we get to share this place that makes it so rewarding and enjoyable,” Garrett says. Visitors often stay for a week or more, particularly during the summer when the clear waters of Sakinaw Lake warm to temperatures approaching 80 degrees Fahrenheit. In addition to swimming and canoeing off the lodge decks, Sakinaw Lake Lodge offers boat tours of the entire lake, the largest on the Sunshine Coast.

The lodge makes a great base for exploring the rest of the central Sun-shine Coast region, a place rich in opportunities for outdoor recreation, including hiking, kayaking, fishing, mountain biking, snowshoeing, ski-ing and more. A short distance from

the Sakinaw Lake access road is the Iris Griffith Interpretive Center, where vis-itors can learn about the natural histo-ry of the Sunshine Coast. A few miles farther north, Skookumchuk Rapids is popular with whitewater kayakers, and the Egmont Heritage Center has eclectic displays on local history and life. South of Sakinaw Lake, the Pend-er Harbour area boasts art galleries, restaurants, boating, and a variety of annual festivals.

As for the Gabriels, they’ve become enthusiastic members of the local community and are putting down roots in more ways than one with the arrival of Garrett and Liza’s first child, Sofina, in April. The family hopes to build a larger house soon, but for now, they all continue to share their tiny cabin on the lodge property. Despite the challenges of living and working in such close quarters, the Gabriels share a willingness to communicate and a sincere enjoyment of each others’ company. And while experience has

taught them things they could have done differently, not one of the Gabri-els has any regrets about their gigantic leap of faith.

“Most people never get to live their dreams,” Donna says. “And this was never even our dream.”

“It kind of found us more than us finding it,” Garrett adds.

Now that the Sakinaw Lake Lodge dream has found them, the Gabriels are giving it all they’ve got. For guests, sharing even a piece of that dream, however briefly, makes visiting this part of the Sunshine Coast all the more special.

Getting There: Kenmore Air flies to Pender Harbour, about 15 minutes from the lodge; transfers to and from

the lodge are available upon request.


By Richard Walker

Historic Roche Harbor Village

From company town to boating resort to vibrant year-round

community

McMillin home 1927


Roche Harbor’s natural beauty and wealth of resources have always at-tracted boaters and builders, farmers and fishermen, dreamers and roman-tics.

Even when this place on San Juan Island was the largest lime producer west of the Mississippi, a poet wrote, “A rock-bound coast hems in a wealth of verdant pastures sweet / Deep forests cover vale and hill where fresh and salt waters meet.”

What we call Roche Harbor today was already a thriving place when the Hudson’s Bay Co. staked a claim on the island in 1845. This place was Whelaalk, believed by the Lummi and Songhees to have been the original home of their first ances-tor, Sweh-tuhn.

On Speiden Channel, one and a half miles northeast, was a Lummi village described as having 10 long-houses in the mid- and late-1800s.

Directly north of Whelaalk was Kwuh-nuhs, a Saanich village on Stuart Island, occupied year-round as late as the 1880s.

“(T)here was nothing but Indian camps,” Caroline Chevalier Mills (1908-2004) told the Seattle Post-Intelligencer in an Aug. 13, 2002 story. “Saanich, from Canada, used to come up in big long canoes; you could hear them singing on the water.”

Reef-net fishing originated in the San Juan Islands and is practiced today by descendants of Whelaalk’s First People (left). Modern day Salish canoers (right).


theirs. Complicating matters, the 1846 Oregon Treaty drew the international boundary down “the middle of the channel which sepa-rates the continent from Vancouver’s Island,” neglecting the archipelago altogether. Both nations attemped to assert their authority, so a joint oc-cupation ensued until the territory dispute could be resolved. In 1872, a German arbitration panel settled the territory dispute in favor of the U.S., and the British flag was lowered on San Juan Island—the last place in the continental U.S. where the British flag flew.

Ownership of Roche Har-bor flipped between three parties from 1877 to 1886, when John S. McMillin of the Tacoma Lime Co. bought Roche Harbor for a total of

In 1845, the Hudson’s Bay Co. was drawn to the island’s expansive prairies and protected harbors and established a claim here; a salmon-curing station and a sheep ranch followed. The British built San Juan Island’s first roads using Cowichan and Songhees laborers.

Shortly after arriving, Royal Navy Lt. Richard Roche (1831-1888) dis-covered white gold—limestone—at Whelaalk. Limestone was prized for its myriad uses: In stone form, it was used for the construction of build-ings, bridges and tunnels. Crushed, it was used in cement, paint, paper manufacture, as a flux in steel making, and to mellow acidic soil in-tended for planting.

The U.S. and Great Britain both believed the San Juan Islands were

John S. McMillin on the pier of his company town,

July 23, 1923

McMillin home, present day

John McMillin stands at left with guests on a Hotel de Haro balcony, circa 1890.

Modern day Hotel de Haro.

$37,500—quite an investment since it sat on the largest and purest deposit of lime in the Northwest.

McMillin, a lawyer who grew up in Indiana limestone country, was an industrial visionary. Backed by capital from his Tacoma partners, McMillin expanded the limeworks into a highly efficient gravity-based operation.

The quarries were 350 feet above sea level. Rock was blasted in the quarries, broken by hand into small pieces and loaded into rail cars that rolled to a trestle above the kilns. The rocks were dropped into the kilns and burned for four hours at 2,000 degrees, releasing carbon dioxide from the rock. The resulting quick-lime was dropped down into a com-partment to cool. At the right time, a lever was pulled and the quick-


lime dropped down a chute into the barreling room and was then trans-ported to the adjacent warehouse to await loading onto a ship.

McMillin built the 20-room Hotel de Haro for his employees and guests and, by 1889, a company town emerged: barns, a barrel works, church, company store, docks, homes, offices, school, ships and warehouse.

Roche Harbor ultimately comprised the town, 12 miles of shoreline, and 4,000 forested acres that helped provide wood for the kilns.

As Roche Harbor became an economic powerhouse on the islands, McMillin became politically and socially influential. He entertained elegantly and lavishly. He ran for the U.S. Senate, served as a delegate to three Republican National Conven-tions, served on the state railroad commission and was Sigma Chi’s first international president. His wife, Louella, who served as Roche Har-bor’s postmaster from 1892-1940,was referred to in a 1910 Bellingham Herald article as “coadjutor in the promotion of the educational, moral and civic conditions which have made Roche Harbor the ideal industrial center it is today.”

The Great Depression slowed the

Roche Harbor school circa 1933.

market. Paul McMillin, who succeed-ed his father as president in 1936, led the company during the ensu-ing period of economic recovery and recession, changing markets and labor unrest.

In 1956, the McMillins sold Roche Harbor to another visionary: Reuben J. Tarte and his family, who transformed the lime company town into a premier boating resort. They restored the old buildings, built the marina and added recreational amenities (actor John Wayne made Roche Harbor the summer homeport for his converted minesweeper, the Wild Goose).

The Tartes started traditions which continue today. Every sunset during summer, Roche Harbor hosts a colors ceremony that includes the lowering of the national flags and the playing of the national anthems of Canada, Great Britain and the United States.

In 1988, the Tartes sold Roche Harbor to grocer Verne Howard and restaurateur Rich Komen. Howard later sold out so he could concen-trate on his other business interests. Komen now owns Roche Harbor in partnership with Saltchuk Resources, a Seattle-based maritime company.

In 2001, Komen’s vision began to take shape: that of a village with permanent, year-round residents. New commercial buildings and homes have been developed, all in the architectural style of the early 1900s. The Roche Harbor Amphitheater is a venue for live entertainment. West-cott Bay Sculpture Park is located at the entrance to the village, on what was once McMillin’s Bellevue Farm.

Roche Harbor’s cemetery and the McMillin family mausoleum are silent reminders of people who contributed to local life during the lime company era. Residents and visitors can hike Roche Harbor’s old quarries and visit heritage buildings that bring its past to life. Whelaalk’s descendants visit the islands regularly to care for cultural resources, and in


2004 and 2008 Coast Salish canoes visited here as part of the Canoe Jour-ney, a gathering of Salish Sea First Nations.

History has come full circle: Roche Harbor has been a company town and a boating resort. But for the

people who have lived here over the centuries, it has been, and continues to be, “home.”

Richard Walker is a journalist living in Poulsbo, Wash. He is the author of “Roche Harbor” (Arcadia, 2009).

Aerial view of Roche Harbor marina from Kenmore Air flight.


There was an era when pink salm-on were publicly dissed and secretly smoked, but that was back in the summers when Puget Sound and the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Georgia, Haro and Rosario were wedged tight with staggering runs of prime chinook and coho salmon and good fishing was easy.

Today those celebrity runs are a whole lot thinner, and hours, some-times days drone past between hook-ups. It’s an empty niche that is allow-ing the Northwest’s low-rung salmon to swim up, get some well-deserved

recognition and earn a tasty place on the salmon grill.

Pinks (aka humpies, because of the camel-like bulge on males) swarm this region’s saltwater and rivers by the mil-lions in odd-number years, and 2011 is certainly an odd year. Huge schools are headed toward spawning desti-nies in the Fraser, Skagit, Stillagua-mish, Snohomish, Green, Puyallup, and dozens of other salmon rivers in British Columbia and northern Wash-ington.

Adaptable Northwest salmon addicts, it turns out, would rather

It’s Time to Think Pink By Terry W. Sheely

The odd-year salmon du jour

Male spawners, like this Green River pink are called “gators” for good reason.


Pink salmon slurps a pink and purple streamer fly--perfect freshwater humpie fodder.

hoot and holler and enjoy a few million aggressive five- to 10-pound pink salmon on light tackle than fish hard and catch nothing from skinny pods of bigger cohos and kings.

Like it or not, for many anglers pinks have become the odd-year salmon du jour, and what they lack in size they make up for in numbers—millions of numbers, six million headed into Puget Sound and twice, maybe triple that up the lower B.C. coast.

The odd-year return is explained by the two-year life cycle of pinks. Unlike coho and chinook and chum that spend from two to five years feeding in the ocean, pinks rush out, feed and return to spawn as smallish two year olds. Sometime back in the eons, that cycle was started on an odd-numbered year and it continues. There are exceptions—a few even-year runs return to Washington and even more to B.C., but even-year returns are lightweights compared to the over-whelming odd-year runs.

Pinks are shallow swimmers, sometimes visible on or just below the surface, other times down to 70 feet, and most often around 30. The shal-low fishing depths, when combined with an average weight of around six pounds and a nasty predilection for whacking diminutive artificial lures (in pink colors of course), make these little salmon the perfect target for ultra-light salmon tackle or, better yet, medium-weight trout rods.

These little salmon have got some big fight in their souls and when not overwhelmed by chinook-size rods they’ll give you an adrenalin shot. It’s a wonderful combination for kids, families and salmon-starved old hands hungry to put a little Omega 3 on the grill.

Pinks swarm into local saltwater in late July and August, and then some time in September they follow the first freshet rains into freshwater spawning rivers, giving anglers a double crack at catching them.

In saltwater, it’s a trolling show.


Puget Sound salmon addict Jim Brauch says he puts “30 to 40 pinks a trip” in his boat by trolling a white Hot Spot flasher with 16 inches of leader and an F-15 pink squid.

Gary Krein the venerable Everett-based charter operator/owner of All Star Charters (www.allstarfishing.com) has another variation of pink poison.

He rigs an 11-inch Hot Spot flasher, silver-nickel enhanced, with either pink or green Mylar strips. To that he attaches a 24-inch leader connected to a pink mini-squid and a size 2/0 red barbless hook.

Fishing instructor Terry Weist rec-ommends a white eight-inch flasher, 16 inches of leader and a small hot-pink hoochie (squid). He trolls the

combo 15 feet behind the downrigger ball and, as he says, “it’s fish on!”

Pink fanatics gain an edge by cram-ming Berkeley PowerBait into the squid head, or smearing the flasher with Pautzke Gel Krill.

Krill eat plankton, pinks eat krill and we eat pinks. Plankton move vertically through the water in response to wa-ter temperature and light penetration. Work the surface in low light, and the depths (to 70 feet) in direct light. It’s a predator-prey waltz that takes the speed out of the storied chase-and-eat circle. A pink’s world moves in slow motion until the hook goes home.

Multiple hookups are the name of the game,” Krein says, and “when you hook-up don’t pull the other rods. Keep ‘em fishing and you’ll get mul-

Saltwater pinks love pink hoochies fished on light tackle reels and rods.

WOW!A boatyard that does work

ON TIME

A boatyard that does workON BUDGET

A boatyard where work isGUARANTEED

A boatyard that will offerFIRM PRICING

A boatyard that isFULL SERVICE

Haulouts, CanvasMechanical, Electrical

Paint, Composite, WoodMetal Fabrication

CANADIAN SERVICE AND WARRANTY PROVERDSFOR NORDHAVEN AND SELENE

Sidney B.C.

TOLL FREE 1-877-656-1157PHONE 250-656-1157 FAX 250-656-1155

[email protected]

Experience a Higher Standard



This is an Island ...You Need a Boat

Hourly, Daily Rentals 360-378-6202 www.fridayharbormarine.com

you get the idea.Typically pinks are caught dur-

ing the heat of the year, and if you want to eat your catch you’ll need to temporarily stop fishing and care for your catch the instant it hits the bank or the boat. Immediately cut the gills, bleed out, remove intes-tines and put on ice—preferably not in slush water.

It’s silly to go pink fishing for din-ner without a chest of ice. Pinks have

delicate meat and mild flavor that when handled with care is excellent table fare. It accepts seasonings and rubs well, and is a delight to eat when marinated, slathered in butter and grilled. And when it’s lightly smoked with alder or mesquite, some call it memorable.

Pinks are an odd little salmon but this is an odd year and it’s not at all odd that a lot of salmon fishermen are starting to think pink.

tiples; doubles, triples, that’s when it gets to be fun.”

“And never set the hook,” he warns, “pinks have soft mouths and hooks jerk out. User laser-sharpened hooks and they’ll set on the strike.”

Troll at about 1.5 mph always moving down tide, with roughly 10 degrees of angle between the down-rigger wire and the water.

In freshwater, pinks still prefer pink but they want it served to them on a cast-and-retrieve rig.

Finding pinks to fish in rivers is absurdly easy. They roll, splash, leap and dig up spawning gravel like a ro-totiller on steroids. They’ll eat any-thing as long as it’s pink and small—streamer flies, Dick Nite Spoons, an inch of pink yarn with small pink corkie floats, ¼-ounce jigs with pink marabou skirts, pink plastic worms, pink, pink, and pink.

And deep.Don’t let the churning surface

activity fool you. In rivers, pinks, like all salmon, are bottom huggers and you’ll need a rig that will hold a lure just off bottom, drifting smack into salmon faces. Pinks are a hoot on light trout rods with eight-pound test line and on six-weight fly rods. Use an intermediate or full-sink line (de-pending on depth), short leader (three feet), and a garish pink fly. Simple as that.

Pinks from saltwater or early into freshwater are delicious, despite the prejudice you may have picked up. The trick is how they’re handled. Bad fish handlers produce bad-tast-ing fish, good fish handlers...well,

(Clockwise from top left) Nearing spawn, male pinks develop camel-like humps and earn the nickname Humpy. Young angler Cody Dreslin with a big pink salmon from the prolific Green River near Seattle. Dave Underwood caught this nice pink trolling near the Mukilteo Ferry dock. Saltwater pink headed toward the smoker. An angler nets a pink caught in freshwater.


South ZoneO

lym

pia

to N

anai

mo

Kenmore Air Destination MapTo

pogr

aphi

cal d

ata

by T

rue

Nor

th G

IS. M

ap ©

2009

Ken

mor

e Ai

r Har

bor,

Inc.

All

right

s res

erve

d.


For R

eser

vatio

ns C

all (

866)

435

-952

4 •

ww

w.Ke

nmor

eAir.

com


North ZoneN

anai

mo

to P

ort H

ardy

Kenmore Air Destination MapTo

pogr

aphi

cal d

ata

by T

rue

Nor

th G

IS. M

ap ©

2009

Ken

mor

e Ai

r Har

bor,

Inc.

All

right

s res

erve

d.


For R

eser

vatio

ns C

all (

866)

435

-952

4 •

ww

w.Ke

nmor

eAir.

com


Classy Working Girls By Allen Cox

Timeless classics with real star power dominate the scene at any Concours d’Elegance across the country. These are the Clara Bows, Jean Harlows and Marilyn Monroes of the automobile world.

But, for the first time this year, the Kirkland Concours d’Elegance at Car-illon Point in Kirkland, Washington turned a spotlight on the Rosie the Riveters—those hard-working, light-duty commercial vehicles produced between 1925 and 1950. These were the work force of the automobile world

that kept the wheels of commerce turning by delivering mail, bread, pop, telephones and more. Some pristine models of these “Working Girls” com-peted in their own class in Kirkland, providing a colorful contrast to the el-egance and style of other classes.

Proud “working girl” owners each have his or her own motivation for acquiring and restoring a vehicle of service. Sometimes, it’s rooted in a lifelong career in the same industry or even the company in which the vehicle served, such as AT&T retiree Barbara

Birt and her 1931 Ford Telephone Truck or Postal Service retiree Glorrian Nau and the 1929 Ford Postal Truck she owns with her husband Leroy. In some cases, collectors are inspired by an attraction to a more eccentric col-lectible, such Sandy Olson and his carefully restored 1931 Twin Coach Helms Bakery delivery van.

Whatever their collectors’ motiva-tions, these working girls bring back memories for many and offer a nos-talgic glimpse into a very industrious history.

1931 Twin Coach Helms Bakery VanHelms Bakery of Los Angeles bought this Twin Coach delivery vehicle when

she was new in 1931, and today she still has her original 4-cylinder Hercules engine. Delivery drivers who operated the vehicle had to drive standing up and no faster than 30mph. This working girl didn’t retire until 1967 and somehow was spared a sad fate in a salvage yard, unlike many of her co-workers. When present owner Sandy Olson bought her in 2000, his newly acquired Twin Coach was worn out and broken down. Olson admittedly has a soft spot for oddities, so restoration of this unusual vehicle of service became a priority. Today, she’s back to her original 30mph glory.


Collector“Work Trucks” from

eras gone by

1931 Ford Telephone TruckBarbara Birt, owner of this 1931

Ford Telephone Truck, has a personal interest in this vehicle of service. She once worked for the Bell System and spent much of her career driving a tele-phone truck. In 1931, Ford brought many innovations to service vehicles, such as a wide bed and a steel top. This working girl has both. A stickler for authenticity, Birt not only restored the vehicle to original condition and color, but did some meticulous home-work and has assembled documented proof of the vehicle’s provenance.



1929 Ford Postal Truck Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night keeps this 1929 Ford

Postal Truck from purring like a kitten. Leroy and Glorrian Nau have been the proud owners of this working girl for 20 years. She is one of an estimated 100 remaining in existence. As a retiree from the Postal Service, like her co-owner Glorrian, she still competes with the best and makes occasional appearances at special U.S Postal Service events.


1940 Ford Delux Sedan Coca-Cola Delivery

Bill and Wendy Jabs have what the Coca-Cola Museum doesn’t: a beauti-fully restored 1940 Ford Sedan Coca- Cola delivery vehicle. In fact, to the Jabs’ knowledge, theirs is the only restored model in existence. For a working girl, this Ford Sedan sports some very elegant lines and turns heads wherever she goes.


Excellent Freeway Access and Visibility Near Retail Centers, Corporate

Headquarters and Medical Facilities

10,500 sq. ft. Build-to-Suit Office/Retail Building

Issaquah, WA

425-391-1170 www.kyledevelopment.com

Kyle Development Company, Inc.

Premier Office Space

C O M M E R C I A L R E A L E S TAT E

C o n v e n i e n t a n d A f f o r d a b l e L o c a t i o n


My favorite time of year is crush. Crisp air and sun-gold leaves scatter-ing across the ground signal harvest, when Mother Nature’s bounty hits its zenith. And news of the grapes achiev-ing the correct balance of brix and pH brings me to the nearest winery in a flash.

The northern shore of Washington’s Olympic Peninsula is home to 10 family-owned wineries and cideries,

from Port Angeles to Port Townsend. In the fall, if you time it right, you can visit during crush and watch high-tech machines pull stems from the clusters and shoot out crushed grape skins into bins. The aroma is intoxicating. This region is part of the Puget Sound AVA (American Viticultural Area), along with the San Juan Islands and areas from Olympia to Bellingham. Less than 100 acres of this AVA are

Olympic Peninsula Wine & Cider HarvestBy Anne Norup

Touring and tasting across the Olympic

Peninsula

Olympic Cellars creates a festive harvest setting with their Vineyard Angel during crush on the scenic Olympic Peninsula.


AVA: Why have these winemakers chosen this cooler, damper climate over establishing themselves in the hotter climes of Eastern Washington where most of the grapes are grown? For Olympic Peninsula winemak-ers, it’s all about quality of life in a spectacular setting.

Olympic Cellars, with its historic 121-year-old barn, located on High-way 101 between Port Angeles and

Sequim, was the first winery to open on the North Olympic Peninsula, in 1979, and the 15th winery in Wash-ington State. Now there are nearly 800 wineries in Washington.

Don Corson, winemaker and co-owner of Camaraderie Cellars in Port Angeles, views his winery as much more than just a place to taste and purchase wine. “I think we have the whole package,” he says. “The

planted in wine grapes, a few cool-climate white varietals.

Some Olympic Peninsula wineries and cideries grow their own fruit, such as Black Diamond Winery near Port Angeles, which produces an estate-grown Pinot Noir and other wines, but most source fruit from Eastern Washington.

This begs the question common to most wineries in the Puget Sound

Finnriver’s organic family cider farm in Chimacum, WA.

Alpenfire freshly picked organic apples ready to be pressed.



grounds are beautiful. We offer great wine, hospitality, a gorgeous, unpre-tentious Northwest garden setting, all in a region unlike anywhere else in the Pacific Northwest.”

Like Olympic Cellars, many of the Olympic Peninsula’s tasting rooms occupy barns, such as the barn at FairWinds Winery in Port Townsend, creating a rural, farm-like wine tour-ing experience. But it’s usually not just the barns that draw visitors—it’s what the winemakers are pouring inside. FairWinds is known for working with some more unusual varietals, such as Aligote, a white Burgundy grape, with award-winning results.

Christina James Winery, near

Port Townsend, acquires Pinot Noir grapes from Oregon’s Willamette Valley and works with other vari-etals as well. “We make our wines to complement the various talented chefs in our region,” says Jim Pivarnik, winemaker for Christina James Win-ery. “We don’t have a tasting room open to the public, but instead let the restaurants in the area be our tasting room, pairing their local foods with

Patio garden for wine tasting at Camaraderie Winery, Port Angeles, WA.

(clockwise from top left) Alpenfire Organic Cider Press.

Finnriver’s hands on process of harvesting their fruit.

Eaglemount Farm proudly displays their wine and cider near Discovery Bay, WA.

Finnriver Cidery stainless steel tanks.

Alpenfire Cider Farm’s organic orchard.

our wines. That’s exciting for us and is at the heart of why we make wine.”

Pairing wines with the local culi-nary bounty is a motivator for many peninsula winemakers and was the reason many launched their ven-tures. Don Corson from Camaraderie Cellars started his winery in 1992 following a decade of making wine non-commercially, just for the love of it. “Now we are following our passion

Alpenfire Organic Farm.


for food and wine,” Corson says, “and we love sharing that passion with others.”

Finnriver Farm & Cidery co-owner Crystie Kisler not only grows fruit for their excellent cider and fruit wines, but also food. “We are a working, diversified organic farm,” says Kisler, who sells their products at the local farmers market and food co-op. “We are striving to grow good food and craft excellent cider and wines to help strengthen our lo-cal food economy and to celebrate the bounty and beauty of the land.” The folks at Finnriver welcome visi-tors who want to check out life on a working farm.

Alpenfire Orchards & Cider pro-duces the only certified organic estate cider on the Peninsula. According to Nancy Bishop, co-owner of Alpen-fire, “The real challenge is getting the juice from tree to bottle without the use of sulfites as a sanitizing agent or as a preservative.” Bishop believes that because cider is a drink meant to drink young, within a year or two of bottling, the cider can do without the aid of preservatives.

The region’s natural beauty, the passion of doing something well and pride in their products are what the Olympic Peninsula wine and cider scene is all about. Besides, who can resist the delightful adventure of driv-ing down a winding, tree-lined gravel road and arriving at a farm, know-ing delicious wines and ciders await amid a nostalgic countryside with the Olympic Mountains as a backdrop.

OLYMPIC CELLARS WINERY

FINNRIVER FARM AND CIDERY

FAIRWINDS WINERY

Finnriver Cidery barn tasting room.


Eight of the peninsula’s wineries and cideries host an annual Harvest Wine Tour every November. Usually,

crush has ended by then and some of the winemakers may let you taste their recently pressed vintage—don’t pass on this delectable treat. New releases are featured, along with harvest-inspired appetizers often partnered with local

cheese artisans, bakers and others for food pairings that celebrate

local coastal cuisine.

Since the tour is November 12 and 13, with Veterans Day on Friday, Novem-

ber 11, make it a long weekend and enjoy all the Olympic Peninsula has to

offer. Fly Kenmore Air into Port Angeles and rent a car. A variety of accommoda-tions are available, including cozy B&Bs.

Restaurants in Port Angeles, Sequim and Port Townsend offer delicious din-ner options featuring locally produced

foods and wines from the region.

For more info, go to www.olympicpeninsulawineries.org.

1) Finnriver Farm, Chimacum

2) FairWinds Winery, Port Townsend

3) Sorenson Cellars, Port Townsend

4) Eaglemount Wine & Cider, Port Townsend

5) Olympic Cellars, Port Angeles

6) Camaraderie Cellars, Port Angeles

7) Harbinger Winery, Port Angeles

November 12 & 13, 201111 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Tickets are $30 per person and include tasting fees.

Harvest Wine Tour

Camaraderie Cellars334 Benson Rd.Port Angeles, WA 98363360.417.3564www.camaraderiecellars.com

Harbinger Winery2358 Highway 101 WestPort Angeles, WA 98363360.452.4262www.harbingerwinery.com

Black Diamond Winery2976 Black Diamond Rd.Port Angeles, WA 98363360.457.0748www.blackdiamondwinery.com

Olympic Peninsula Wineries and Cideries at a Glance: Traveling from Port Angeles to Port Townsend

Olympic Cellars255410 Highway 101 EastPort Angeles, WA 98362360.452.0160www.olympiccellars.com

Eaglemount Wine & Cider2350 Eaglemount Rd.Port Townsend, WA 98368360.732.4084www.eaglemountwinery.com

Finnriver Farm & Cidery62 Barnswallow Rd.Chimacum, WA 98325360.732.6822www.finnriverfarm.com

Alpenfire Orchards & Cider220 Pocket LanePort Townsend, WA 98368360.379.8915www.alpenfirecider.com

Sorensen Cellars274 S. Otto St.Port Townsend, WA 98368360.379.6416www.sorensencellars.com

FairWinds Winery1984 Hastings Ave. W.Port Townsend, WA 98368360.385.6899www.fairwindswinery.com

Christina James Winery205 St. James PlacePort Townsend, WA 98368360.531.0127www.cjwinery.com

123457 6

Harvest Wine Tour


sit 4 minutes. Add mixture to a blender and blend adding yolks one at a time. Pour bat-ter into 4 oz. ramekins and bake in a water bath for 25-30 minutes or until custard is set. Cool completely.

To macerate the cherries, bring 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar, 3 sprigs of thyme, and 1/2 cup brown sugar to a boil. Turn off heat and cool, then pour over pitted and halved cherries.

To assemble, dust the top of the custard with some fine grain sugar and, using a torch, caramelize the sugar. Add cherries and a little of the liquid to the top of each ramekin and serve.

Chef Martin Woods, re:publicwww.republicseattle.com

Chef Woods dazzles holiday dinner parties with his simple yet elegant adaptation of an old French classic. “It makes a wonderful first course for an elaborate holiday

dinner or it’s perfect with just a salad for a lighter meal,” says Woods. “The point is to hit on all the senses with crunchy caramelized sugar, a bite of cherry and a smooth, savory custard finish. Every mouthful should have a bit of all of it.”

- 2 Cups heavy cream- 5 Egg yolks- 8 Ounces cleaned and diced foie gras- Salt and white pepper to taste- Pinch coriander

Bring cream and all sea-sonings to a simmer. Turn off heat and add foie gras. Let

SLU:Neighborhood Happenings

Foie Gras Creme Brulee with Aged Balsamic Macerated Cherries

Holiday Recipe Favorites from Three SLU Chefs

Holiday magic comes wrapped in many packages: a gift from a loved one, traditions handed down from generations long gone, and those special foods whose very aromas announce the holiday season is here. HARBORS magazine asked three of Seattle’s favorite chefs in the South Lake Union neighborhood for holiday season recipes that are special to them, ones that you can easily recreate to inspire some new and delicious flavor traditions in your holiday kitchen.

Seattle’s South Lake Union Neighborhood, home of Kenmore Air’s Seaplane Terminal.

By Robyn Roehm Cannon


Chef Avalon Zanoni, Portage Bay Cafewww.portagebaycafe.com

Chef Zanoni’s holiday memories hail from the Lake Como region of Italy. Her grandmother was also a professional chef, and in her family the holiday sea-son cannot pass without a big pot of her grandma’s

Grandma’s Slow Cooked Sugo from Italy

slow-cooked Sugo, a hearty, tomato-based meat sauce spooned over long noodles.

- 4 Ounces pork lard- 2 Yellow onions, small dice- 10 Garlic cloves, crushed- 3 TBSP basil, minced- 3 TBSP oregano, minced- 1/2 Cup red wine- 50 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped- 3 LBS ground pork- 1 LB ground veal- 1 Whole egg- 3 TBSP parsley, minced- 4 LBS favorite local italian sausage- 4 LBS pork shoulder, 2” cubes- 3 Bay leaves

Mix the pork, veal, egg and parsley into a smooth meatball mixture, seasoning to taste with salt and pep-per. Form the meatballs into 4 ounce portions. Heat the lard in a large stock pot. Sear the pork shoulder cubes and meatballs, then remove and reserve. Sweat the onion and garlic in the lard. Add the tomatoes, red wine, basil and oregano, season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 15 minutes, then puree with a hand mixer. Add the pork shoulder, meatballs, sausage and bay leaves. Allow to simmer below 190F for at least 8 hours. Adjust sea-soning as necessary before ladling over long noodles and serving.

Preheat oven to 350F. Place first 5 ingredients in a large bowl. Beat with a mixer at medium speed until well blended. Lightly spoon flour into a dry measuring cup; level with a knife. Add flour, oats, and salt to egg mixture; beat well. Stir in walnuts.

Drop by level tablespoons, 1 1/2 inches apart, onto a baking sheet coated with cooking spray. Bake at 350º for 12 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from oven; let stand 2 minutes. Remove cookies from baking sheet; serve warm.

Chef Christine Keff, Flying Fishwww.flyingfishrestaurant.com

Chef Keff, who built her cu-linary reputation on prepar-ing the perfect fish, offered up a favorite holiday recipe that has neither fin nor scale.

With that, we present Keff’s favorite oatmeal walnut cookie with its secret ingredi-ent: bacon grease. Where’s the bacon grease come from? “You serve everyone BLT’s for dinner the night before!” Keff explains.

- 1/2 Cup granulated sugar - 1/3 Cup packed dark brown sugar - 1/4 Cup bacon grease- 1 Teaspoon vanilla extract - 1 Large egg - 3/4 Cup all-purpose flour - 1 Cup regular oats - 1/4 Teaspoon salt - 1/4 Cup chopped toasted walnuts - Cooking spray

Chef Christine’s Oatmeal Walnut Cookies with Bacon Grease


The Broughton ArchipelagoBy John Beatty

A Boater’s Paradise Found

As a Kenmore Air pilot flying pas-sengers to the Broughton Islands, I had seen an aerial view of the serene-looking archipelago for the first time from a de Havilland Beaver. It took me 35 years to finally visit this tranquil cruiser’s paradise by boat.

Flying is easy. Making the trip on the water is much more complicated. It exposed our boat and crew to the risks of rapids, whirlpools and gale warnings. Was the trip worth the effort? In a word, yes!

Navigating through these dangers is a matter of good timing and better advice. My wife Linda and I did some research and talked to people who had already made the trip. Finally, after a dozen summers of lovely cruises in the southern part of British Colum-bia, we were ready for the challenge the northern waters would bring. We cruised from Seattle in our Krogen 42 called Fluke (think of a whale’s tail) to the north end of the Georgia Strait via a familiar route—across the Strait

tion of water where the current is run-ning at its strongest and truly looks and behaves like rapids in a river. One might think that an 8 knot boat could handle a 7 knot current; it would just take a long time. This might work in a man-made channel with smooth uniform banks and an even bottom, but not in the natural world. Back eddies and whirlpools add spice to the mix. Sailing directions and cruising guides strongly suggest that no mat-ter what type boat you are operating, calculate slack water and go through the rapids close to that time. Passing

of Juan de Fuca, through the Gulf Islands to Nanaimo. Then we crossed the Georgia Strait and went up the Sunshine Coast to Desolation Sound, a large British Columbia marine park served by Kenmore Air. We would log 600 miles round trip before we were done.

The route from Desolation Sound to the Broughton Islands took us through an intimidating series of rapids in the area of Stuart Island. Charts have sev-eral names for narrow bodies of water, such as channel, passage and narrows. The designation of rapids is a descrip-

Sullivan Bay sign post. You are here.


through one rapid is pretty straight forward; just arrive on time and go through. Three rapids in succession is much more challenging. For our first passage we decided to pass through the first two rapids and stop for the night at Blind Channel Resort, where we enjoyed a fine restaurant and a de-stressing walk in the woods.

The next morning the wind stayed calm but was forecast to reach a strong wind warning (20 to 33 knots) in the afternoon. We decided to head west on Mayne Passage for an early join-up with Johnstone Strait.

We cruised along the strait and turned northeast onto Havannah Channel and into the Broughton Is-lands, where we were able to forget about timing tidal rapids and avoid-ing the afternoon winds on Johnstone Strait. As we traveled farther up these inlets and channels, we realized that if there were a dictionary definition of “tranquil destination,” it would include a photograph of a Broughton anchorage.

Our first stop in the Broughtons was Lagoon Cove, where the anchorage is quite sheltered and inviting. But we were looking for the “Lagoon Cove Marina experience” we’d heard about, so we called for a spot on the dock. We were shoehorned into the dock

Crabs drill team. Very trainable just after being prepared to be cooked.

Jennis Bay, a small friendly place on Drury Inlet just north of Sullivan Bay.

SAN DIEGOSEATTLE NEWPORT BEACH

~ 35 years of world class service ~

SEATTLE (206) 625-1580 W W W . C R O W S N E S T Y A C H T S . C O M

The “Crow’s Nest Yachts” brand, a property of Grander, Inc., is licensed for use by Crow’s Nest Yachts Seattle.

Local Owners Acquire Crow’s Nest Yachts Seattle on South Lake Union. Pictured left to right: Dale Partna, Vic Parcells, and Dan Wood.


through Stuart Narrows and into Drury Inlet. From there The Jennis Bay resort was easy to find. Tom, the proprietor, helped us into a slip and his young son, Orion, gave us a wel-come briefing.

As we walked the dock, it was im-possible not to notice a lovely 85-foot classic fantail motor yacht, the M/V Deerleap. During the course of con-versation with the owner, we learned of a novel way to keep Dungeness crab alive until you are ready to cook and eat them. They made a crab hold-ing pen from two plastic milk crates arranged in clam shell fashion. You simply catch the crabs, put them in this device and hang them over the side. As a result of their ingenuity, Deerleap had accumulated a feast of crab and invited everyone from the six other boats in the marina to an all-you-can-eat crab feed.

We found the places we visited by talking with other boaters about their first visits to the area. The Broughtons hold dozens of wonderful anchorages and fuel is readily available. Many marinas have free drinking water, but buying fuel or overnight moorage is always good etiquette if you wish to use water.

A bit south of Jennis Bay is Port McNeill on Vancouver Island, our last stop in the Broughtons. Port McNeill is a friendly place with all the services a cruiser might need. If a crew change is in order or you wish to head home for a few days to cut the grass, there is seaplane service to Seattle via Ken-more Air, “the boater’s airline.”

of this large and very popular marina with lots of help from people on shore. Our host, Bill, said he quit taking res-ervations some time ago because of no shows. He emphasized that he always finds a place on the dock for anyone who wants one.

Lagoon Cove has earned a reputa-tion as a mandatory stop for fun in the Broughtons. Every afternoon at 5 o’clock, the folks in the marina are invited to bring some appetizers up to the club house and an ample quantity of prawns appear.

In conversations around the camp-fire we mentioned this was our first trip to the Broughtons. Several fellow cruisers talked about Jennis Bay, which is in the Sullivan Bay vicinity. This resort was started a few years ago by a young couple and their two kids who live in this remote area all year.

We charted a course to Jennis Bay

Lagoon Cove Marina with shrimp happy hour going on in the clubhouse. All marina guests are welcome.

Arran Rapids near Stuart Island BC. If you see this ahead of you, you have made a wrong turn at

the wrong time.


We were in no hurry to cut the grass, so we traveled home at our modest seven knots. Only one trip to the Broughtons in no way satisfied our desire for tranquil destinations; to paraphrase a famous actor and gover-nor: “We’ll be back.”

Johnstone Strait, near Port Neville. The morning fog is just lifting.


Healthy Travel TipsBy Allen Cox

Many people who live to fly have learned that flying can be tough on the body. Being confined in a small seat in a cabin packed with people potentially carrying any number of illnesses can take a physical toll. Travelers who are aware of the risks and equipped to counter them will deplane healthier and with more energy.

Fortunately, on regional carriers that fly smaller planes shorter distances, you’re exposed to fewer people for few-er hours in tight quarters. The largest cabin in Kenmore Air’s fleet holds 10 passengers at full capacity, hardly an overbooked jumbo jet. Just the same, taking control of your well-being is crucial for an enjoyable journey.

Arm your body with the basics Before your trip, maintaining

your daily vitamin regimen, eating a nutritious diet, getting adequate sleep, staying hydrated and minimizing caf-feine and alcohol intake will give your body a head start right out of the gate. But those basics may not be enough.

Pack your superfoodsEven on short-haul, small-plane

flights, do your body a favor with the right superfoods that you can easily carry along. A snack packed with im-mune-boosting zinc, protein, vitamin C and antioxidants takes the edge off hunger and boosts your defenses and energy until you have time to relax and enjoy a healthy meal at your des-tination.

You can make a tasty and nutritious raw foods travel snack with equal parts nuts (particularly cashews, Brazil nuts,

peanuts and almonds), pumpkin and sunflower seeds, flaked raw coconut, dried goji berries and mulberries, and raw cacao beans. Packaged or bulk versions can be found in health food stores or buy the raw ingredients and prepare your own.

Feeling fit in-flight


Keep movingNot only the size of the cabin, but

the confining dimensions of your per-sonal space in your seating area affect your comfort level and circulation. And, on a Kenmore flight, as relatively short as they are, regulations keep you in your seat.

That’s why it’s crucial that you sit in a relaxing position with good posture, feet in front of you. Stretch your legs beneath the seat in front of you if pos-sible. Flex and stretch your ankles and feet. Rotate your feet at the ankle one way, then the other. Keep your legs moving throughout the flight. Not only will this keep the blood flowing, but avoid dangerous clots—a risk of sitting in one place without moving your legs.

Watch this column for more health tips to make your travel

experience on Kenmore Air as enjoyable as possible.

Your Journey Beginswith King County International Airport

Serving the Aviation Community Since 1928 206 -296 -7380 • www.kingcounty.gov/airport

“13R” photo used by permission of Long Bach Nguyen

“13R” photo used by permission of Long Bach Nguyen

Proud Partner of Kenmore Air Express Since 2004With flights to Port Angeles, Eastsound (Orcas Island), and Friday Harbor

MarQueen Hotel600 Queen Anne Ave N • Seattle, WA 98109

(888)445-3076 • www.marqueen.comLocated just one mile from Kenmore Air’s Lake Union Terminal

Historic Charm Romantic Ambiance

Distinct Personality

MENTION “HARBORS MAGAZINE” WHEN MAKING RESERVATIONS AND RECEIVE A COMPLIMENTARY BOTTLE OF NORTHWEST WINE TO ENJOY WITH YOUR STAY!

58 spacious guestrooms and suites featuring kitchenettes• first class hospitality meeting space • European inspired spa • onsite espresso bar and bakery


Self-described hothead Eric Lucas has passed that desirable milestone in his journey as a storyteller where he chooses to confine his writing to what interests him. If you’re asking your-self Why would a person write about anything else? you’ve never forged a career as a freelance writer or paid the mortgage by writing copy for sleeping pill ads.

As a travel writer, Lucas has vis-ited all 50 states and more than two dozen countries. Along the way, he has written for publications of inter-national stature—National Geographic Traveler, Los Angeles Times and Bos-ton Globe, among many others—and has penned several books, including Michelin Guide to British Columbia, Michelin Must-See/Vancouver, Hidden

British Columbia and Seattle Survival Guide. He is the coauthor of numer-ous other titles, including No Excuses: Be the Hero of Your Own Life. His lat-est book is Explorer’s Guide Victoria & Vancouver Island: A Great Destination.

For Lucas, the privilege of writing about that which interests him means writing about the destinations that inspire him and about preserving those places for future generations. People often ask him which destination tops his favorites list.

“I can’t pick just one place.” Lucas says, pondering his global travels. “Vancouver Island sits at the top of my list with a bunch of other places. That’s why I chose it as the topic for my latest book.”

Lucas’ specialties as a travel writer

Northwest Author Spotlight: Eric LucasBy Allen Cox

“...until recently, [mom] would occasionally resurrect her offer that, should I wish to go to law school, she’d pay for it. Never mind I have no interest in law school and I’ve enjoyed a 30-year career writ-ing everything from hotheaded newspaper columns to, well,

hotheaded internet columns.” – from “There’s a Whole World

Out There,” essay by Eric Lucas (www.yourlifeisatrip.com)

Author Eric Lucas enjoys the beaches of Vancouver Island.


focus on sustainability and on West-ern North American destinations. His writing tends to concentrate on the meaning and purpose of contempo-rary travel, a topic that manifests on the page in phrases punched with laugh-out-loud jocularity to moments of prose-inspired introspection. One thing is certain, he’s never short on opinion, and those of us who read his work are thankful for thoughts his words provoke.

Watch for his articles in this and future issues of HARBORS. You can learn more about this Seat-tle-based writer, his work, and his passion for cultivating organic garlic at www.TrailNot4Sissies.com.

A good guidebook is not only practi-cal but informative. A great guidebook inspires us as well. Veteran guidebook author Eric Lucas’ 2011 Explorer’s Guide Victoria & Vancouver Island: A Great Destination, published by The Countryman Press, sits squarely in the latter category. Lucas brings the Vancouver Island region alive with narra-tives of its rich history, diverse cultures, abundant recreational opportunities and, of course, the most current scoop on where to stay and dine and how to get around. This indispensable book is like having your own local guide with an insider’s perspective sharing your travels on the island.

“For me, Vancouver Island is among the world’s top destinations,” says Lucas. “It’s an amazing place where you can ski in the morning and golf by noon. It has open ocean, warm, lovely

Explorer’s Guide Victoria & Vancouver Island: A Great Destination

agricultural valleys and towns, and a fabulous, cosmopolitan city that’s at once historic and modern.”

Explorer’s Guide Victoria & Vancouver Island: A Great Des-tination is made even greater with a liberal sprinkling of color photos illustrating every chap-ter, by travel photographer Leslie Forsberg (who happens to be Lucas’ wife).

You can order a copy at

www.harborsmagazine.com/books

Aerial view of Victoria’s Inner Harbour from a Kenmore Air flight.

| HARBORS56 www.harborsmagazine.com 2011

Holiday Gift Ideas

HARBORS Travel Club Membership


Discounts at over 50 lodging & dining establishments

at destinations in WA & BC.

HARBORS Travel Club Card

Valid thru 12/31/20112011

Tucker House B&B Gift Certificate

The premier Friday Harbor B&B.

www.tuckerhouse.com

“please be good humans.” T-Shirt

www.pleasebegoodhumans.com

American-made apparel for the social good.

Urban Hardwoods

Natural wood tables.

www.urbanhardwoods.com

Beaconsfield Inn Gift Certificate

www.beaconsfieldinn.com

A gift of luxury in beautiful Victoria, BC.

Flightseeing with Kenmore Air

www.kenmoreair.com

Experience Seattle from the air.

Lego Toy Seaplane

www.kenmoreair.com

Kenmore Air Gift Certificate

www.kenmoreair.com

Give a travel experience.

Ad in HARBORS Magazine


Help a friend or loved one grow their business with an ad in Harbors Magazine.

HARBORS | 57The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine2011

Abigail’s HotelGift Certificate

Victoria’s finest boutique hotel.

www.abigailshotel.com

www.marqueen.com

Book early for New Years Eve at Seattle Center.

Waterworks Gallery

Northwest art selections.

www.waterworksgallery.com

Dent Island

www.dentisland.com

Premier boating destination, Desolation Sound, BC.

Books from HARBORS Website

www.harborsmagazine.com/books

Choose from a variety of books about the Pacfic Northwest.

Poet’s Cove

Premier luxury resort & spa, Gulf Islands, BC.

www.poetscove.com

Nanook Lodge

www.nanooklodge.com

A guided fishing trip - perfect gift for the avid fisherman.

HARBORS Treasures Gift Basket

A gift basket of products made in the Northwest.


www.123west.com

Friday Harbor’s new state-of-the-art contemporary accommodations.

Kenmore Air Suede Fleece Pullover

www.kenmoreair.com

San Juan Vinyards

www.sanjuanvineyards.com

Local NW wine, the perfect festive gift.

Sakinaw Lake Lodge Romantic Escape

www.sakinawlakelodge.com

A romantic holiday getaway on the Sunshine Coast, BC.


If you enjoy luxury accommodations with a strong historical connection, the George Washington Inn at Port Angeles offers the perfect combination. The inn is located approximately 14 miles from Port Angeles’ William R. Fairchild In-ternational Airport, Kenmore Air’s gate-way to the Olympic Peninsula. As you approach the George Washington Inn along its impressive 1,200-foot drive-way, lined with white ranch style fences, it’s like being transported to a post-rev-olutionary era time warp.

Proprietors Dan and Janet Abbott decided to build an exterior replica of Washington’s Virginia home to con-vey a strong sense of American history to their guests, even requesting the dimensions of Washington’s home from the Mount Vernon Ladies Association. They succeeded in their quest magnifi-cently.

Situated atop a 125-foot cliff, over-looking the Strait of Juan de Fuca (on

a broad scale, somewhat paralleling the banks of the Potomac River), the white painted inn offers five guest rooms, immaculately decorated with replica early American colonial furnishings and fixtures, even lavish four-poster beds.

The sumptuous rooms, all with pol-ished oak floors, reflect important eras in George Washington’s life: the Presi-dential Suite, the General’s Suite, the

Mount Vernon Retreat, and the Survey-or’s Retreat, with Martha’s Suite tucked downstairs behind the grand sweeping staircase in the center of the house.

The mansion is no less than a shrine to our first president. The inn’s library is solely dedicated to Washington, packed with books old and new, telling of the life and times of this extraordi-nary leader. Reproductions of historic

Holiday FlyawaysGeorge Washington Inn, Port Angeles, WA By Roy Stevenson


paintings featuring Washington adorn the walls—the most famous being the widely recognized portrait of the Washington family painted by Edward Savage in 1796. The original hangs in the National Gallery of Art.

Deer stroll across the expansive 10-acre lavender fields lining the driveway, eagles soar overhead, often perching on

the cliff-top trees to watch for salmon below, and, in season, gray whales and orcas frequently surface and frolic close to shore.

Since opening in 2008, people from all over the world have stayed at the inn, all leaving in awe of their experi-ence. Janet serves a different break-fast every morning and tries to main-

tain some similarities to colonial era food, when possible, often referring to Martha Washington’s cookbook.

For luxury surroundings in a house with a strong sense of history, you can do no better than this inn that proudly bears the state’s name—short of staying at the White House. www.GeorgeWashingtonInn.com

The first impression of Eastsound on Orcas Island is unforgettable: the wind-ing sound lined with rocky bluffs and heavily forested hills, the tiny barren island just off shore, the sea-salt scent in the air, and the lovingly preserved clap-board buildings along Main Street.

A 19th century islander constructed one of Eastsound’s Main Street build-ings as a multipurpose facility. In 1888, one could purchase provisions, mail a letter, do the waltz, and get locked up all in the same building, which served as general store, post office, dance hall and jail.

Today, that same structure serves

guests as the main building for the Out-look Inn, one of Orcas Island’s premier hotels and historic sites. Of course, history has changed and expanded the inn significantly. But the Farish family, who acquired the inn in the 1970s, have worked hard over the years to retain the

Outlook Inn, Orcas Island, WA By Allen Cox

period character of the original building. As a guest of the inn, you’ll select

from three types of accommodations, something for every budget: shared-bath rooms in the historic and charm-ing main building, larger private-bath rooms in the east wing, or contemporary

Ten passenger turbo Otter seaplane

Nine passenger wheeled Caravan


luxury view suites where you can cozy up to your fireplace or enjoy a soak in your jetted tub.

The inn’s on-site restaurant, New Leaf Cafe, is the perfect spot to settle in at a window-side table with a dramatic view of the sound for some fresh, seasonal,

local fare at the hands of some excep-tional culinary talent. An expertly de-signed global wine selection ensures the right pairings, and an informed and friendly dining room staff is always on hand to help you make the best choices from the menu and wine list.

Eastsound connects east and west on this horseshoe-shaped island and is its largest village. If you can tear yourself away from Outlook Inn’s ambiance and legendary hospitality, you’ll discover that Eastsound is a delightful indulgence in the form of a very walkable village, especially for those who live to browse—and shop. Bounded by East Sound and North Beach, you can walk from shore to shore in 30 minutes, but you’ll un-doubtedly want to linger at a number of spots that catch your eye along the way. You’ll discover galleries featuring the works of island artists, a variety of small specialty shops, bookstores and cafes.

Kenmore Air operates daily wheeled-plane service from Seattle’s Boeing Field to Orcas Island/East-sound Airport, making this destina-tion an easy and scenic holiday flyaway. www.outlookinn.com.

Sooke Harbour House, Sooke, B.C.

In the small fishing village of Sooke, on Vancouver Island’s southern coast, travelers find tranquility in the form of a welcoming white wood-framed inn and drama in its bay, ocean and mountain vistas. Sooke Harbour House owners Frédérique and Sinclair Philip have transformed and expanded a small clapboard structure with five guest rooms into a boutique resort masterpiece.

The inn perches on a cliff above Whiffen Spit, directly facing the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Washington’s Olympic Mountains. A Kenmore Air flight to Victoria provides an inspir-ing preview of the coastal and moun-tain views along the strait. In the inn’s intimate and dramatic setting, guests can contemplate the canvas of chang-ing light on mountains and water, sa-vor the salt breeze and luxuriate in the sounds of nature from spacious private decks.

Each of the inn’s 28 rooms is an individually designed marriage

By Roger Ward


of whimsy and luxury, providing comfort with the highest quality bed-ding, first-rate amenities, enormous jetted or soaking tubs in the rooms or on decks, and blissful breakfasts delivered to guests’ rooms.

Frédérique, the inn’s Creative Di-rector, recounts that the couple’s vision when starting was “to develop a nice place to stay with as much art as possible, a good local restaurant, and making it work to benefit the local community.” The numerous and pres-tigious awards the inn and its creators have received confirms that they have succeeded well beyond their initial aspirations.

Frédérique found a lively local art community when she arrived in Sooke from her native France. She showcases and elevates the best of local artists’ works in the galleried hallways, public rooms and guest suites. She also discovered the art of the First Nations cultures. Large masterworks abound, including a family totem that docu-

ments the history of the Philip tribe and welcomes strangers to share in their culture and bounty.

Sinclair modestly calls himself Inn-keeper and Wine Director. Under his direction and insistence, the vision of a “good local restaurant” developed into an internationally renowned homage to locally grown and foraged ingredi-ents. All of the plants growing on the grounds are edible in some aspect, and the restaurant uses each in season.

The inn’s works of perfected food art create their own culinary journeys resplendent with botanical delights in such openings as pumpkin soup with red begonia crème fraiche, or ox-eye daisy, radish and sage-flower salad. The kitchen features locally-caught, sustainable seafood and the best of local farmers’ rabbits, pork, lamb and beef. Even the sorbets are transcendent creations using mints, lemon verbena, salmonberry, grand fir needles, sages, berries or other freshly picked herbs and fruits. www.sookeharbourhouse.com

PENDER ISLAND, BC, CANADA

R E S O R T & S P A

Poets Cove Harbor Magazine Fall outlines.indd 1 8/19/2010 3:43:08 PM


Things you need to know... Sea-Tac Shuttles Kenmore Air operates ground shuttles between Seattle-Tacoma International Airport and its three Seattle-area terminals. These shuttles are complimentary for connections to year-round routes and available at a nominal charge for connections to seasonal routes.

Shuttles must be reserved in advance. When booking flights online, select “Seattle-Tacoma International” as your origin or destination, and our system will automatically book the correct combination of shuttle and flight for you.

Shuttles pick up from Sea-Tac at Door 00 in the Scheduled Airporter waiting area at the far south end of Baggage Claim. Please be at Door 00 with your claimed baggage at least 10 minutes before the scheduled shuttle departure time. The shuttle driver will always make a departure announcement over the PA system, but passengers are ultimately responsible for getting on the shuttle by departure time.

When connecting to another airline from Sea-Tac, be sure to schedule your Kenmore Air flight and shuttle to arrive at Sea-Tac with sufficient time (per your major airline’s recommendation) to check in, check baggage and clear security. A minimum of 90 minutes is generally recommended.

Customs & Immigration With a handful of extremely limited exceptions, everyone flying internationally — regardless of citizenship or age — is required to have a current, valid passport book. Passport cards, NEXUS cards and so-called “enhanced driver licenses” are not valid for travel aboard Kenmore Air.

Travelers should also be aware that some criminal offenses that are misdemeanors in the United States are considered felonies in Canada and can result in denial of entry. Driving under the influence of alcohol is a common example. Every traveler is responsible for making sure that they meet the requirements of international travel. Kenmore Air will accept no liability for cost or inconvenience arising from denial of entry into either the United States or Canada.

Charter Service Kenmore Air offers a lot of scheduled flights to a lot of places, but sometimes, you really need to travel on your schedule, not ours. Or perhaps you need to go somewhere we don’t fly everyday. That’s what charters are for. With our large and diverse fleet of seaplanes and wheeled-aircraft, we’re able to offer customized flying throughout the Pacific Northwest. For a quote, call 866.435.9524 and ask for a charter specialist or send an e-mail to [email protected].

Baggage Allowances At Kenmore Air we have big hearts but little airplanes! Our baggage limits and penalties for overweight bags are dictated solely by safety of flight concerns, which are more acute on our size aircraft than on the big jets.

Seaplane passengers are permitted up to 24 pounds of baggage per person. All items are weighed and count toward the limit, including purses, laptops, backpacks, and so on. Additionally, no single baggage item can exceed 10 x 16 x 24 inches.

On Kenmore Air Express wheeled-plane flights, passengers may check baggage totaling up to 50 pounds and may hand-carry one personal item (purse, backpack, etc.) of up to 20 pounds. The checked item may not exceed 62 linear inches, and the personal item may not exceed 36 linear inches.

Overweight baggage will be carried on either service if capacity is available for $1 per pound, and oversized baggage will be accommodated, if possible, for a $10 per piece penalty. However, overweight/oversized baggage is always at risk of being bumped unless extra baggage space has been reserved and pre-paid in advance.

Flying with Kenmore Air


Terminal Locations

Seattle Boeing Field7277 Perimeter RoadSeattle, WA 98108

Seattle Lake Union950 Westlake Avenue N.Seattle, WA 98109

Kenmore Lake Washington6321 NE 175th StreetKenmore, WA 98028

Port Angeles/Fairchild Airport1404 West Airport RoadPort Angeles, WA 98363Local tel.: 360.452.6371

Friday Harbor Airport800 Franklin DriveFriday Harbor, WA 98250Local tel.: 360.378.1067

Eastsound/Orcas Island Airport847 Schoen LaneEastsound, WA 98245Local tel.: 360.376.1407

Victoria Inner Harbour1234 Wharf StreetVictoria, BC V8W 3H9Local tel.: 250.384.2411

Check-in Times Kenmore Air passengers enjoy a generally more relaxed traveling experience than the typical airline affords. Nevertheless, we do require check-in for all domestic flights 30 minutes prior to scheduled departure. Due to certain requirements of U.S. Customs & Border Protection, check-in for international flights is required 45 minutes prior to departure.

Flights close for boarding 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure, which means that seats for passengers who haven’t checked in at that time may be released to stand-by passengers. Also, the flight may depart anytime after closing, even if it’s prior to scheduled departure. We like arriving early!

For flights departing from unstaffed locations, like seaplane docks in the San Juan Islands or British Columbia, passengers should be ready to go at least 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure time to accommodate unforeseeable variations in flight time.

Alaska Airlines Partnership Since April 2010, Kenmore Air has been a proud partner in the award-winning Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan. Passengers who are participants in the Alaska plan earn 250 miles each way on qualifying Kenmore Air flights, and miles can also be redeemed for free flights on either airline. For details on the Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan, visit AlaskaAir.com/MileagePlan.

In addition to the Mileage Plan partnership, Kenmore Air and Alaska Airlines (as well as Alaska’s regional affiliate, Horizon Air) have an interline ticketing agreement. This means that you can purchase single-ticket itineraries between Kenmore Air destinations and more than 90 Alaska Airlines and Horizon Air cities across North America, including Hawaii. Besides the simplicity and convenience of making a single phone call or online booking, such joint itineraries also offer much more coordinated and accommodating customer service in the event of weather delays, misrouted baggage or other issues.

Interline bookings can be made only through Alaska Airlines. If your travel plans include an Alaska Airlines or Horizon Air city, we strongly encourage you to book an interline ticket by visiting AlaskaAir.com or calling 800.ALASKAAIR.

Reservations & Customer Service

Reservations can be made online 24 hours a day, seven days a week at KenmoreAir.com, or call us toll-free seven days a week from 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Pacific Time at 866.435.9524.

For customer-service inquiries of an urgent nature, call our reservations line at 866.435.9524. For less time-sensitive concerns, kudos or complaints, please e-mail us at [email protected].


Victoria/Vancouver Island, BCAbigail’s HotelBear Mountain Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort Brentwood Bay Lodge Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort and SpaHotel Grand Pacific Fairholme ManorParkside Victoria Resort & SpaPrestige Oceanfront ResortPrime Steakhouse & LoungeRoyal BC Museum Sauce Restaurant & LoungeSooke Harbour HouseVictoria Regent Waterfront HotelWaters Edge Resort at Pacific Rim

San Juan IslandsOrcas Island:Doe Bay Resort & Retreats Orcas Island Golf Course San Juan Island:Afterglow Spa Roche HarborBird Rock Hotel Coho RestaurantCrystal Seas Kayaking Day Tours Earthbox Motel & Spa Friday Harbor Marine Harrison House Suites Horseshu Guest RanchIsland Inn 123 WestIsland Wine Company Joe Friday’s Shirt Company Kings Marine Center States Inn & Ranch San Juan Classic Day Sailing San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching San Juan Vineyards Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast Tucker House Bed and Breakfast Waterworks Art Gallery

Olympic PeninsulaGeorge Washington Inn Gift Shop, Port AngelesClam Cannery, Port TownsendPort Ludlow ResortQuilecute Oceanside ResortT’s Restaurant, Port Townsend

Northern BC IslandsDent Island Lodge Nanook Lodge Poet’s Cove Resort & SpaRendezvous Lodge

SeattleCenter for Wooden Boats DiStefano Winery (Woodinville)Holiday Inn SeattleJillian’s BilliardsKenmore Air Flightseeing ToursKenmore Air Gift Shop Lake Washington TerminalMarQueen Hotel

HARBORS Travel Club Card

HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following par-ticipating businesses. The rewards vary by busi-ness and are restricted to regular priced mer-chandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club

See www.harborsmagazine.com for additional listings and restrictions.

Particpating Businesses

S e e n i n A l l

the BeSt PlAceS

The most appealing destinations often aren’t just around the corner.

That’s why we’ve built Ranger Tugs® in the Pacific Northwest since 1958.

Each Ranger Tug features standard bow and stern thrusters for effortless

handling, coupled with fuel-efficient Yanmar® diesel power to bring even

remote anchorages within easy reach. A comfortable ride, generous interior

and standard equipment make the trip worthwhile. And, Ranger Tugs are

designed for easy trailering, to extend your horizons even further. No wonder

Ranger Tugs has emerged as a leading builder of family cruisers, and the

favored choice of experienced owners across North America and worldwide.

For a Ranger Tugs® dealer near you call 253.839.5213 or visit www.RangerTugs.com

R-21 ec

R-25 Sc

R-29

R-27

R-27

Cascadia is a non-profit whose mission is to promote the design, construction and operation of buildings in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia that are environmentally responsible,

profitable and healthy places to live, work and learn.

www.cascadiagbc.org

We must be the change we wish to see in the world.

Mahatma Gandhi

NW_Mag_ad.indd 1 10/22/2007 12:29:34 PM

Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle.

HARBORSH

ARBO

RSw

ww

.harborsmagazine.com

Fall 2011

A Victorian Holiday

Victoria, BC

Salmon FishingIt’s Time to Think Pink

HistoricRoche Harbor

San Juan Island, WA

Sakinaw Lake LodgeSunshine Coast, BC

SLU: Chef Recipes

HolidayGift Ideas

Wine & CiderHarvestOlympic Peninsula, WA

Documents

HARBORS Magazine, Fall 2011