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In focusInspire your family with a journey to Englands’ past

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Holidays through

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Holidays through history Special pullout Special pullout Holidays through history

evening standard Tuesday 6 May 2014 �

From ancient spas to Georgian splendour, the sights of Bath offer up a unique living history, maintains Paul Bloomfield

Splash out on a Roman experience

Bath: it does what it says on the tin. Well, kind of: health-seekers have been soaking here for nearly three millen-nia, happy as a pig in muck.

And historically, pigs have been par-ticularly happy in these parts — or so legend would have it.

In 863BC King Bladud (father of Shakespeare’s Lear) was living in exile as a lowly swineherd, having suc-cumbed to a nasty bout of leprosy. Noticing his porkers emerging blem-ish-free after a roll in the steaming mud, Bladud dunked himself — and was cured. The thankful king founded the city of Caer Badum — or Bath, as we know it today.

As the centuries came and went, so did the spa-goers. First the Romans, attracted by the hot springs, estab-lished the town of Aquae Sulis. Eliza-bethans followed; three centuries ago, so did the Georgians, whose largesse bestowed the glorious Palladian archi-tecture for which the city earned its Unesco World Heritage status. Today, visitors flock for a dip in the rooftop pool at Thermae Bath Spa.

So Bath packs a powerful historical punch, but it’s also compact, efferves-cent and jammed with enough muse-ums, parks and theatres to keep families entertained for days, while sneaking in a healthy dose of hands-on learning. Introducing our ancestors’ antics is part of the fun: children get a buzz from meeting Roman slave-girls, dressing up at the Fashion Museum and playing pioneer at the American Museum.

Bath is perched on the southern slopes of the Cots-

wolds and — like Rome — ringed by seven hills, with the River Avon and the Kennet and Avon Canal sluicing through the city; no surprise, then, that there’s plenty of outdoor action. Fuelling your family’s adventures are a pantheon of cafes, Michelin-starred restaurants and the artisanal offerings of the weekly Green Park farmers’ market. And with a wealth of accommodation to suit all ages and budgets, from campsites to grand country houses via chic guest-houses, charming B&Bs and Georgian hotels, it’s easy to find the perfect base for a spring break.

Bath’s history is far from stuffy or remote — rather, it’s woven into the city’s DNA, along with charm and verve. Like Bladud’s fateful pigs, your offspring are sure to give it their squeal of approval.

Roman holidayIn Roman times, cleanliness was next to godliness — literally: as the city’s centrepiece Roman Baths reveals, the temple of the goddess Sulis Minerva was built around AD 70 just a curse-inscribed tablet’s throw from the Great Bath. But how did those ancient bath-ers scrub up? Through an audio guide read by former Children’s Laureate Michael Rosen and an array of interac-tive exhibits and activities, young visi-tors discover what a strigil was used for (scraping off dead skin!) and how a shared reusable toilet sponge kept bot-toms clean.

Such titillat-ing morsels combine with recon-structions and regu-

lar hands-on

events in the com-pel-

ling, labyrin-thine museum to paint a glorious Techni-color picture of life in Roman Britain —

handily touching on impor-tant topics

Travel tipsgetting there

Trains serve Bath from London Paddington (90 minutes), Cardiff (65 minutes) and Bristol (15 minutes), Southampton (90 minutes) for connections to the rest of the country. The M4 is 15 minutes away. staying there

Jane Austen’s Home (07960 392068; bathboutiquestays.co.uk) provides one of the city’s more notable self-catering options — a beautiful, five-bedroom Georgian townhouse in which Austen lived in the early 19th century. Two-night rental from £1,190; weekly £2,000, self-catering. Sleeps 18.

Villa Magdala (01225 466329; villamagdala.co.uk) is a handsome Victorian townhouse B&B offering sleekly stylish boutique rooms (including family options) and — unusually for central Bath — free off-road parking. Doubles start at £135, including breakfast.

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Woolley Grange (01225 864705; woolley grangehotel.co.uk) is idyllic: a 17th-century manor house with lovely grounds (encompassing swimming pools) amid open countryside on the outskirts of Bradford on Avon, a short train ride from Bath. Homegrown or locally sourced food and a range of family rooms and suites completes the picture. Doubles from £120.

The Royal Crescent Hotel (01225 823333; royalcrescent.co.uk) graces the middle of the city’s architectural masterpiece, built by John Wood the Younger from 1767. It has the ambience, the peaceful gardens, the spa facilities and the gastronomic treats you’d expect from a five-star hotel. Doubles start at £209, room only. More inforMation

visitbath.co.ukromanbaths.co.ukVisitEngland.com/

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in key stage 2 of the national curricu-lum. Revelations from the Beau Street Hoard — a trove of more than 17,000 Roman coins discovered in 2007 — are presented in various events: make a date for Glorious Rome (26-30 May).Roman Baths (01225 477785; roman-baths.co.uk; £13.50, child £8.80 or £17, child £10.25 including Fashion Museum; open daily)

By Georgians!Some 1,500 years after the Romans pulled the plug on their settlement, Bath had once more become the most vogueish spot in England, sparking the construction of honey-hued crescents, parades and circuses. But who were the Georgians, and how did they work, rest and — especially — play? Find some of the answers at Bath’s most fashion-able address, No 1 Royal Crescent, where 18th-century life above and below stairs is vividly recreated.

One of England’s best dressing-up boxes awaits at the Fashion Museum. Housed in the Assembly Rooms, where high society came to dance, see and be seen, this fabulous collection of cos-tumes from the past four centuries is a treat for fashionistas of all ages. The flagship exhibition for the Georgians’ 300th anniversary year showcases Georgian garb, and youngsters — and the young at heart — can try on corsets, crinolines and sporting costumes from various eras gone by.No 1 Royal Crescent (01225 428126; no1royal crescent.org.uk; £8.50, child £3.50; open 10.30am-5.30pm Tue-

Sun, noon-5.30pm Mon)Fashion Museum (01225 477789; fashionmuseum.co.uk; £8, child £6, or £17, child £10.25 including Roman Baths, £13, child £7.50 including No 1 Royal Crescent; open daily)

American idyllGiven the preponderance of very Eng-lish grandeur, it’s perhaps a surprise to find the American Museum in Brit-ain here. And a pleasant surprise it is — not least because its verdant lawns overlook the Avon Valley. The museum itself, which tracks the history of set-tlers, culture and folk art in America through the centuries, is a delight for youngsters. It also provides context for key stage 3 students learning about the American War of Independence. American Museum in Britain (01225

460503; americanmuseum.org; £9, child £5; open Tue-Sun, late March- early November)

Parks & recreationYou don’t have to walk far in Bath to find green space. The crown jewel is Royal Victoria Park, a swathe of hill-side below the Royal Crescent that hosts regular concerts and fairs, and boasts a terrific children’s play area.

Rain? Undercover options abound: catch a show at The Egg, the innovative children’s theatre attached to the Theatre Royal, or join an Art Camp at the Holburne Museum.The Egg, Theatre Royal (01225 823409; theatreroyal.org.uk/the-egg)The Holburne Museum (01225 388569; holburne.org; general entry free – charges for some events; open daily)

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A clean slate: (clockwise from top) the Roman baths; a statue overlooking the Roman Baths; children learning about centurions

A fairy tale county, brimming with heritage and beautyKent is a green and glorious county dotted with Tudor castles, important pilgrimage sites and historic dockyards, maintains Paul Bloomfield

Invicta – “unconquered”: that’s the motto of Kent. This green and glorious county is a defiant one, its location at England’s south-eastern edge, facing Europe and abutting London, placing

it at the heart of this island’s history, from Roman times, to time of the Norman Conquest, to the aerial dogfights of the Battle of Britain.

The legacy of all this feistiness is a landscape dotted with Tudor castles, including Henry VIII-built sea-facing ramparts. Some are just pure fairytale, such as legend-shrouded Leeds Castle, known as the “loveliest castle in the world”.

Famous figures have long been associated with Kent. The murder of then-archbishop Thomas Becket in 1170 turned Canterbury Cathedral into one of the world’s most important pilgrimage sites. Nelson’s Battle of Trafalgar flagship, HMS Victory, was built at The Historic Dockyard Chatham. Charles Dickens briefly lived, holidayed and died in Kent; Sir Winston Churchill, lived in the county too – at his beloved family home, Chartwell.

Castle coolIf only the walls could talk... Kent has almost 30 castles — one of the highest per-county concentrations in the country — and each has a fascinating tale to tell.

Dover Castle’s story stretches back 2,000 years, when an Iron Age hill fort lorded over the White Cliffs. The impressive bastion that stands here today

dates partly from the 1180s, when Henry II was keen to prove his power in stone. The monarch’s 25m-high Great Tower has been presented in full medieval glory, where you can meet costumed courtiers and live life like it’s the 12th century. However, Dover was garrisoned continuously until 1958, so there’s more modern history to explore too: delve down the 200-year-old Secret Wartime Tunnels to learn about the 1940 Dunkirk evacuation in the very passages where it was planned.

Hever Castle, once home to Anne Boleyn, is less military-might, more pretty-as-a-picture. Dating back to the 13th century, it’s what every child wants a castle to be: crenelated, moated, haunted and with lots of armour and gruesome torture devices (thankfully not still in use) and an amazing maze!

The castle is also surrounded by glorious grounds to get lost in — including a water maze, boating lake and award-winning gardens. Five new Garden Trails — including a Roman route and Maths trails for key stage 1 and 2 — can be downloaded to add a bit of education to the kids’ exploration.Dover Castle (01304 211 067; www.english-heritage.org.uk/dover; adult/child/family £17.50/£10.50/£45.50; open daily; closed Mon-Fri Nov- end March excld. February half-term)Hever Castle (01732 865224; hevercastle.co.uk; adult/child/family £15.50/£8.70/£39.70; open daily; closed Mon-Tues Nov-Mar excluding bank/school holidays)

Immerse yourself in magnificent maritime heritageFrom imposing 16th-century ships to Cold War submarines, The Historic Dockyard Chatham provided the Royal Navy with more than 400 ships during its 370 years of operation. Now, young first-mates can get lost in centuries of maritime heritage at this estate. Squeeze through the hatches of HMS Ocelot submarine, stand on the bridge of the Second World War destroyer, find out what life was like aboard a Victorian sloop, follow a master shipwright through a new digital theatre experience to see if you could have been a sailor.Historic Dockyard Chatham (01634 823807; www.thedockyard.co.uk; adult/child/family £18.50/£11.50/£49.50; tickets valid for 12 months open daily; closed Dec-mid Feb)

Garden of EnglandGiven that Kent’s moniker is the Garden of England — thanks to its profusion of orchards and hop fields — it is fitting to spend time down on a farm. Kent Life, 28-acres of family-friendly farm fun, not only offers tractors to ride, creatures to cuddle and ghosts to hunt but looks back at 150 years of working this land — visit the Vintage Village to see how blacksmiths and hoppers once worked. There are loads of educational workshops for school groups too, where kids can learn everything from beekeeping to how wool gets from sheep to sock.Kent Life (01622 763936; kentlife.org.uk; adult/child £9.25/£7.25; open daily)

Travel tipsgetting there

Kent is easy to reach – it takes just 37 minutes to get to the centre of Kent by Southeastern’s high-speed train from London St Pancras. The M25 provides convenient access too: if you’re driving from the north or east, cross the Dartford Bridge and follow the M2 or M20; from the south and west, take the M26 to the M20.

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At Port Lympne Wild Animal Park’s Elephant Lodge (0844 855 0274; bit.ly/ElephantLodge) you can stay in luxury tents that overlook the elephant paddock and cheetah enclosure to Romney Marsh beyond. Three-night breaks from £510.

Hever Castle (01732 861800; hevercastle.co.uk) offers beds

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to budding historians: in its Astor Wing, 18 guest rooms offer luxurious sleep.

Knights Glamping at Leeds Castle (01622 767823; bit.ly/KnightsGlamping) adopts a flamboyant take on canvas. Nightly from £135. Sleeps four.

Mulberry Cottages (01227 464958; mulberrycottages.

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com) and Freedom Holiday Homes (01580 720770; freedomholidayhomes.co.uk).

Neo-Elizabethan Eastwell Manor (01233 213020; eastwellmanor.co.uk). More inforMation

visitkent.co.ukVisitEngland.com/

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On target: family activities at Hever Castle and Gardens

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� Tuesday 6 May 2014 evening standard

Paul Bloomfield discovers plenty of fun, firepower and a fabulous cathedral in this storied part of the south-east

A county with depth

Hampshire is, by and large, the quintessential green and pleasant land. Ponies graze the verdant expanse of the New Forest, water-

cress beds line slow-flowing rivers, and wooded valleys wrinkle the north of the county.

But make no mistake: this is no mere bucolic backwater — there’s fire in the belly. Winchester, today a peaceful city, was for centuries a pivotal stronghold. Wrested from Celts by Romans and expanded by Saxons, it was capital of Alfred the Great’s kingdom of Wessex. Cromwell’s forces ravaged the city, but echoes of former eminence linger among its charming Georgian architec-ture. The fabulously decorated cathe-dral is the historic showpiece but an array of fascinating museums encom-passes military matters and Roman and medieval remains, not least the Great Hall — last remnant of the castle demol-ished by the Roundheads.

It’s at the coast, though, where Hamp-shire’s crucial role in our maritime his-tory leaves the most powerful impression. Ports studding the Solent have long nurtured England’s naval forces, on and under the water: in these shipyards great warships were built, submarines launched and armaments developed. Much of the British fleet is based here still, and the waters bustle with ships of all kinds.

That’s the textbook stuff. But the big appeal for families is the glut of experi-ential history: a wealth of attractions in and around Gosport — itself just a short boat trip across the harbour from Port-

smouth — vividly evokes key episodes, enticing children to get stuck in. After all, it’s so much easier to remember events and themes when you’ve met smelly submarine crewmen, explored the ramparts of a fort or fired enormous naval guns.

And it’s all so easy. Families of all sizes and ages are catered for with a diverse range of high-quality accommodation, from campsites and self-catering cot-tages to B&B and luxury hotels. Access couldn’t be more straightforward, with quick links to London and the rest of the country via road, rail and bus. There’s plenty to entertain and enthral visitors large and small. Oh, and the catering’s improved beyond measure since Alfred called time on his baking career.

What spies beneathThe views from Gosport across boat-bobbing marinas to Portsmouth’s His-toric Dockyard are terrific — and you can get close to the action on a summer cruise around the harbour and the Solent aboard a Gosport Ferry.

But delve deeper — much deeper — to discover the maritime heritage at the Royal Navy Submarine Museum. It’s a truly immersive experience: visitors are plunged into the secret world aboard the recently restored HMS Alliance, the only surviving British Second World War era submarine. Hear submariners talk about life on board, discussing the foul food and the lack of fresh water that limited crew to washing only once every six weeks. A visit to the Alliance brings wartime service to sweaty, gritty life — ideal for key stage 3 students.

Travel tipsgetting there

Winchester is just an hour from London by train, Portsmouth 30 minutes or so more, with links north and west. The M3 and A3 take drivers into the county. Staying there

Hampshire is full of good family accommodation; the Gosport and Winchester areas have plenty of hotels, guesthouses, self-catering apartments and campsites.

Marwell Hotel (01962 777681; marwellhotel.co.uk) is south of Winchester and has huge woodland grounds. Doubles start at £79, including breakfast.

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The Alverbank Hotel (023 9251 0005; alverbankhotel.co.uk) is a Victorian gem overlooking the Solent and Isle of Wight. Doubles start at £110, including breakfast.

The Holiday Inn Winchester (0871 942 9188; hiwinchester.co.uk) sits alongside the Winchester Science Centre and Planetarium. Doubles start £76, room only. More inforMation

visit-hampshire.co.ukdiscovergosport.co.uk visitwinchester.co.ukVisitEngland.com/more

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Gosport was at the heart of early sub-aquatic exploration. John Deane, co-inventor of the first diving helmet, lived here — indeed, he investigated the wreck of the Mary Rose nearly a cen-tury and a half before it was rediscov-ered in 1982. At the Diving Museum you can discover how military, com-mercial and sport divers manage to survive in the mysterious underwater world, from the past to the present.Gosport Ferry Ltd (023 9252 4551; gosportferry.co.uk; summer cruises adult/child from £14.50/£7.20)Royal Navy Submarine Museum (023 9251 0354; submarine-museum.co.uk; adult/child/family £14/£10/£38; daily Apr-Oct, Nov-Mar Weds-Sun only)The new All Attraction Ticket includes entry to Explosion, the Royal Navy Submarine Museum and Portsmouth’s Historic Dockyard sites, plus travel by Waterbus. Adult/child/family £28/£21/£78The Diving Museum (divingmuseum.co.uk; adult/child & senior/family £3/£2/£8; open weekends and bank holidays Apr–Oct)

Ammunition for educationThere’s dramatic action at Explosion — Museum of Naval Firepower, its award-winning exhibits housed in the Royal Navy’s former armaments depot at Priddy’s Hard. Hands-on displays reveal how sea battles were won through the centuries, with examples of cannons and guns, shells, mines, torpedoes and modern missiles — even an atom bomb. Interactive audio-visual

exhibits put youngsters in the thick of the action: imagine firing the biggest guns in the heat of a naval battle.

Royal Armouries Fort Nelson, home to the national collection of artillery, bristles with more hefty weapons — no fewer than 350 mighty guns. A costly redevelopment of this gargantuan Vic-torian fort, probably the nation’s finest

surviving example, has created a new visitor centre and interactive galleries. Meet characters from military history, explore the labyrinthine tunnels, ram-parts and magazines, and discover the fort’s Second World War heritage through superb educational material. Explosion — Museum of Naval Firepower (023 9250 5600; explosion.org.uk; adult/child/family £10/£6/£25; open daily)Royal Armouries Fort Nelson (01329 233 734; royalarmouries.org/visit-us/fort-nelson; free; open daily)

The only way is Wessex The ancient capital of King Alfred’s Wessex offers opportunities to discover the county’s non-naval treasures — not all entirely peaceful, though.

Founded by the Saxons in the 7th century, the old minster was upgraded in the 11th century to the monumental Norman edifice of Winchester

Cathedral. While panoramic vistas draw gasps on the Tower and Roof Tours, the smaller details revealed on nine trails designed for children illuminate Anglo-Saxon culture and religion.

Two free museums track the darker side of Winchester life through the cen-turies. Westgate Museum, a former debtors’ prison, boasts a gibbeting iron and prisoners’ graffiti etched into the walls, while the City Museum displays the skeletal remains of a Roman burial, a medieval toilet and a Victorian phar-macy complete with leech bottles.

There’s more evidence of martial heritage in Winchester’s Military Museums, a quintet of sites in the Victorian Peninsula Barracks exploring the heritage of British regiments.

For more gentle insights, head to Little Woodham, a timewarp rural village near Gosport forever stuck in 1642. Meet “villagers” decked in period costume and ready to involve your children in their daily routines.Winchester Cathedral (01962 857200; winchester-cathedral.org.uk; adult/child £7.50/free – ticket valid for 12 months; open daily)Westgate Museum & City Museum (01962 869864; winchester.gov.uk/heritage-conservation/museums/; free; open weekends Feb–Oct, closed Nov–Jan)Winchester’s Military Museums (01962 877826; winchestermilitarymuseums.co.uk; adult/child varies/free; open Tue–Sat, times and dates vary)Little Woodham (littlewoodham.org.uk; adult/child/family £4.50/£3.50/£15.50; open various dates late Mar–mid Oct)

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Pray tell: Winchester Cathedral; Winchester’s Science Centre and Planetarium (below)

Savour the majesty of one of England’s finest fortificationsExplore the planet’s largest siege engine, the devilish contraptions at the MAD museum and tiny creatures at Butterfly Farm. By Pete Browning

Will the real William Shakespeare stand up? England’s greatest wordsmith depicted some of the meatiest

characters and episodes in history and legend — yet left us virtually nothing written in his own hand, nor little concrete knowledge about his own life. Instead, what remains is a wonderful kind of whodunnit, or literary treasure hunt: a series of clues in the shape of centuries-old houses, some revealing lines in his plays and sonnets, and the landscapes of the heart of England around Warwick, Kenilworth, Leamington Spa and Stratford-upon-Avon.

Exploring the scenes of Shakespeare’s early years, and the remarkable landmarks dotting his homeland, is spiced up this year by a series of special events and new attractions celebrating not only the 450th anniversary of the bard’s birth but also 1,100 years since the first fortification was built at Warwick.

The roll-call of attractions studding Shakespeare’s England reads like a shortlist of things children love best — mighty castles, hilarious shows, dressing up, tales of ancient battles and the world’s largest catapult — with its central location and great accommodation embellishing the script for an ideal family break.

Tower playWarwick Castle is everything an English fortress should be: looming, crenellated towers flanked by imperious battlements, jousting tournaments, bird-of-prey displays and a huge trebuchet with an 18m-long arm — the planet’s largest siege engine. Warwick witnessed many crucial moments in the country’s story during its first 1,100 years. All attractions have been revamped for this anniversary year.Warwick Castle (01926 495 421; warwick-castle.com; adult/child/family of four £30.60/£25.80/£107.40 including Merlin: Dragon Tower and Castle Dungeon, with 10 per cent/25 per cent discount if booked 2/7 days in advance; open daily)

Bard for lifeFor the juvenile Shakespeare, a visit to grandma’s meant a day on Mary Arden’s Farm. The Tudor homestead where the playwright’s mother grew up is populated with costumed characters, providing a snapshot of 16th-century domestic life. Follow with a visit to Shakespeare’s Birthplace, where actors recite favourite scenes in the garden and special exhibitions celebrate the bard’s 450th birthday, or visit the Royal Shakespeare Company where family activities take place throughout the year. Mary Arden’s Farm (01789 293455;

shakespeare.org.uk; £12.50, child £8; open daily to early November); Shakespeare Five House Pass, covering all main sites: £23.90, child £14Royal Shakespeare Company (0844-800 1110; rsc.org.uk)

Flights of fancyThe machinations of Iago and Claudius are as nothing compared with the devilishly complex contraptions on display at the MAD Museum (mad stands for Mechanical Art and Design). Marbles tumble and figures perform pirouettes as kinetic artworks and wondrous automata clunk and whirr. More mechanical marvels can be found at the Heritage Motor Centre, tracing the evolution of cars over a century and more. Elsewhere, the mysteries of metamorphosis are revealed at the Butterfly Farm, where spiders, beetles and all manner of bugs join more than 1,500 free-flying tropical butterflies.MAD Museum (01789 269356; themadmuseum.co.uk; adult/child/family £6.80/£5.50/£19; open daily)Heritage Motor Centre (01926 641188; heritage-motor-centre.co.uk; adult/child/family £12/£8/£34; open daily)Butterfly Farm (01789 299288; butterflyfarm.co.uk; adult/child/family £6.25/£5.25/£18.50; open daily)

Travel tipsgetting there

The M40 runs between Stratford and Warwick, providing easy access to both. Regular trains serve London (Stratford two hours, Warwick 90 minutes), Birmingham (Warwick 30 minutes, Stratford 50 minutes) and beyond.

Staying thereThe Mercure Shakespeare

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Hotel (02477 092802; mercure.com) is a family-friendly place blending 16th-century trappings with stylishly updated rooms. Doubles start at £56, room only.

The Legacy Falcon Hotel (08444 119001; www.legacy-hotels.co.uk) is another half-timbered charmer near the site of Shakespeare’s retirement

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pad at New Place. Doubles start at £90, room only.

The Stratford (01789 271000; qhotels.co.uk) is a central modern hotel offering good-value family breaks. Doubles start at £107.10, w/ breakfast.

Macdonald Alveston Manor Hotel (01789 205478; macdonaldhotels.co.uk) is a

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four-star hotel with a pool. Doubles start at £95, room only.

Ardencote Manor (01926 843111; ardencote.com) is a four-star country club. Doubles start at £115, w/breakfast. More inforMation

shakespeares-england.co.ukVisitEngland.com/more

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The moat that rocks: the imperious Warwick Castle

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evening Standard tuesday 6 may 2014 �

It’s so much easier to remember events and themes when you’ve met smelly submarine crewmen

Have a blast: dramatic action at Explosion — Museum of Naval Firepower

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� tuesday 6 may 2014 evening Standard

Holidays through history Special pullout Special pullout Holidays through history

England’s maritime muscle is celebrated on the south coast, where museums house huge arsenals, says Sarah Baxter

Adventures on the high seas

Some sources say Portsmouth was founded in AD 501 by a pirate named Port. In fact, there was no significant settle-ment here until Anglo-Nor-

man lord Jean de Gisors rocked up in the 12th century and created a base from which to trade with France. But: founded by a pirate? That’s a better, and more fitting, story.

That’s because Portsmouth is vitally, thrillingly and heroically bound to the water: it is the UK’s only island city; it’s the home of the oldest operational dry dock in the world; and it’s been the base of the Royal Navy since the service was established by Henry VIII in 1527. It was from Portsmouth that, in 1787, a fleet of 11 ships set off to found the first Euro-pean colony in Australia. In 1805 Admi-ral Lord Nelson left from here, bound for the Battle of Trafalgar. On 6 June 1944 — D-Day — Portsmouth was a key embarkation point for vessels destined for Normandy’s beaches. The city is an historical leviathan – and continues to be so today.

Portsmouth has undoubtedly changed: the grime and grunge that once blighted this garrison town have been washed away. Now, it’s shipshape. New developments have seen the city revived for the nascent millennium — most strikingly in the form of the 170m-high sail-like Spinnaker Tower, which now dominates the waterfront, and offers great views over land and sea.

In addition, the evidence of all those centuries of maritime mastery is now freshly spruced, gloriously displayed and wonderfully interactive. Wannabe first-mates can dash about the decks of warships, dress-up like Tudor sailors, hear cannons blast, run round castle ramparts and test their mettle on simu-lated high-seas adventures — all while

learning a thing or two. There’s plenty to fill several days, year round, in all weathers, whether your interests lie in medieval dockyards, Tudor wrecks, coastal castles, secret tunnels, com-mando training or simply the lively restaurants of Gunwharf Quays. In Port-smouth, history isn’t stored fustily behind glass: it is made real; it is there to be delved into, walked amid, touched, smelled, lived.

School of dock The Historic Dockyard is the heart of Portsmouth. It’s the reason why the city exists, and why it’s been coveted for centuries. And the huge collection of naval wonders located here has never looked better – or been more fun to explore.

In 2013, the new Mary Rose Museum opened. You can now get closer than ever to the sunk-and-raised Tudor ship — the only 16th-century warship on display in the world — as well as viewing the 19,000 original artefacts found with her, from longbows and bowls to nit combs that still contain 500-year-old lice! Also new for the Dockyard is the National Museum of the Royal Navy’s Hear My Story exhibition, which brings maritime history to life by revealing personal tales from those who’ve helped make the Navy great over the past century. Think your family might be up to the task? At Action Stations, housed in old Boathouse 6, pit your wits and daring against the might of the sea in a series of simulators and experi-ments: try commanding a warship, flying a helicopter, mastering the tides and battling the Royal Marines.

Nelson’s Flagship, HMS Victory, also sits resplendent at the docks. Visit the Great Cabin where the Battle of Trafal-gar was planned, the spot where Nelson

died, and the cannon-dotted decks where over 800 men worked and fought. You can also see how Victorian sailors lived by hopping aboard the HMS Warrior 1860, the world’s first iron-hulled, armoured warship that was powered by steam as well as sail.Historic Dockyard (023 9272 8060; historicdockyard.co.uk; adult/child/family £28/£21/£78.40 (valid for all attractions, for one year); open daily)

Military marvelsThis year sees the 70th anniversary of the D-Day landings, and Portsmouth is home to the D-Day Museum, the UK’s only venue dedicated to this pivotal event — the turning point in the Second World War. It’s a fascinating insight for historians of all ages: archive footage transports you back to the 1940s, while atmospheric recreations — an air raid warden’s home during the Blitz, the

map room at Allied HQ — bring the hor-rors of the period to life.

The Royal Marines Museum follows the history of these extraordinary sol-diers from 1664 to the modern day. You can follow a recruit through their rigor-ous training and on to deployment as well as marvel at the museum’s medal collection. As 2014 has been designated “Survival” year here, there’s even a chance to try some commando training yourself: prepare for a mission, make a compass then take on the outdoor assault course — if you dare!D-Day Museum (023 9282 6722; ddaymuseum.co.uk; adult/child £6.70/£4.60; children admitted free when part of a family group; open daily)Royal Marines Museum (023 9281 9385; royalmarinesmuseum.co.uk; open daily; adult/child/family £9/£4/£22; closed Mon-Tue, Nov-Mar)

Towering achievementsIt was from the battlements of Southsea Castle — which Henry VIII had just had built, to guard the entrance to Port-smouth Harbour — that the monarch watched his ship, the Mary Rose, sink. Over 550 years on, you can stand in the very same spot. Southsea Castle, with its solid Keep, mighty walls and under-moat tunnels, has stood the test of time, and provides incredible insight into Tudor life — families can don period costumes, negotiate the subterranean passages and learn how the castle would have been defended against invaders. Nearby, at Victorian-era Fort Nelson, more of these defences can be seen — this stronghold is home to the Big Guns, 350 weapons that trace the develop-ment of artillery from pre-gunpowder machines to high-tech super guns. Best of all, both are free to visit.

Of course, if Henry were around today, he could access an even better vantage. The Spinnaker Tower, opened in 2005, offers panoramic views of all of historic Portsmouth — the docks, the harbour, the bustling centre — and to the Isle of Wight beyond. The perfect place to end your trip to the city, to survey all the excitement of your stay. Southsea Castle (023 9282 6722 southseacastle.co.uk; free; open Tue-Sun & bank holiday Mondays, Apr-Oct)Fort Nelson (01329 233 734; royalar-mouries.org; free; open daily)Spinnaker Tower (023 9285 7520; spinnakertower.co.uk; adult/child £8.95/£6.95; open daily)Cabin fever: swing by the Historic Dockyard to take in loads of naval wonders

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Travel tipsgetting there

Portsmouth is well connected by rail. There are direct routes from London (90 minutes), as well as Bristol, Southampton, Cardiff, Exeter, Reading and Brighton. National Express coaches also serve the city. Road links are good: the A3(M) means London is just 90 minutes away, while the M27/A27 connect Portsmouth with the motorway network.

Staying thereBirchwood Guesthouse

(023 9281 1337; birchwood.uk.com) is a friendly family-run B&B, with fresh, comfy, clean rooms and, according to the last official assessor, truly excellent breakfasts. Doubles start at £62, including breakfast.

Wayne Mitchell, owner of Upper Mount House (023 9282 0456; uppermountportsmouth.co.uk), spent nine years working on the Royal Yacht

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Britannia, and his B&B is equally shipshape, and well located for all Portsmouth’s attractions. Doubles start at £75, including breakfast.

Some of Portsmouth’s larger hotel chains offer great weekend deals. Check out the Premier Inn Southsea (0871 527 9014; premierinn.com), which is right on the Waterfront, next to all the fun of the fair — convenient for entertaining the kids, while good insulation keeps the noise out. Doubles start at £58, room only.

The Holiday Inn (0871 942 9094; hiportsmouthhotel.co.uk) is a reliable option; it has family and inter-connecting rooms, under-18s stay free and under-12s get free kids’ meals when eating with an adult. Doubles start at £85, room only.

More inforMationvisitportsmouth.co.ukVisitEngland.com/

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Flying the flag: (from top) Nelson’s flagship HMS Victory; the Spinnaker Tower; HMS Warrior 1860

Gorge on industrial history at this remarkably pretty destinationPaul Bloomfield explores the birthplace of a different kind of heavy metal, and a vast aircraft museum covering the history of the RAF

For a spot renowned as the birthplace of England’s Industrial Revolution — where, three centuries ago, blast furnaces smoked, factories clanked and

the white heat of innovation burned brightest — Ironbridge Gorge is a remarkably pretty destination.

Yet the steep-sided, tree-lined valley carved by the Severn through Coalbrookdale isn’t just aesthetically appealing: the availability of wood along its banks, along with rich seams of iron and coal, created the ideal environment for innovative metallurgists to perfect their new smelting techniques. It was here, in 1709, that Abraham Darby I developed the coke-fuelled blast furnace, revolutionising the production of pig iron and transforming industry — and society.

Today, the most recognisable reminder of that era is the iconic Iron Bridge — the world’s first, constructed in 1779 — that spans the Gorge still; by any standards it’s a beauty. But dotted around the Ironbridge Gorge World Heritage Site are 10 museums introducing different aspects of the region’s story with tactile, immersive exhibits.

The Gorge is the centrepiece of a wider region melding the urban energy of the Midlands with the rural delights of Shropshire. And it continues to evolve, with innovative outdoor attractions and

unique places to stay for a great-value family break that also inspires a fascination with England’s industrial heritage.

Shop and oreThe Industrial Revolution redefined our economy and culture — and at Blists Hill Victorian Town, populated by a cast decked out in period garb, you can step into the shoes of 19th-century locals to experience everyday life in that new era. Watch demonstrations at the Candle Factory or Tinsmiths, tuck into fish and chips at the Fried Fish Dealer or a pint of ale at the New Inn, or spend your shillings and pennies on sugary treats from jars in the sweet shop. With regular family events throughout spring and summer, youngsters absorb key stage 1 and 2 themes by happy osmosis.Ironbridge Gorge Museum Trust (01952 433424; ironbridge.org.uk; Annual Passport Tickets adult/child/family with one adult/two adults £27.50/£16.50/£50/£68; individual tickets also available; museums open daily. Passport valid for all 10 museums in the Gorge for a year)

Tech tonicThere’s more hands-on action at Enginuity, another part of the Ironbridge Gorge Museum Trust, where children join school holiday design and build workshops to create buggies, pneumatic

rockets or wind turbines — an involving introduction to science, design and technology. At nearby Jackfield Tile Museum, youngsters can decorate tiles using traditional tube-lining techniques on certain days, revealing another side to those burgeoning 19th-century industries. The Gorge itself charms walkers with its Walkers are Welcome status, riverside and woodland trails, and of course the Iron Bridge rewards with spectacular valley views.

Air timeMore than 70 aircraft are exhibited at Royal Air Force Museum Cosford, a vast site covering the history of the RAF and all aspects of aviation, from early prop-powered planes to modern jump-jets and experimental aircraft.

There are more opportunities for getting airborne at Telford Town Park, where the High Ropes Course takes children into the treetops along a series of vertiginous traverses and zipwires. The park has numerous play areas plus adventure golf, fishing ponds and cycling trails; the Silkin Way passes through on its route to Blists Hill and the Iron Bridge. Royal Air Force Museum Cosford (01902 376200; rafmuseum.org.uk; free; open daily)Download walking and cycling maps for the Telford area from visitironbridge.co.uk

Travel tipsgetting there

Ironbridge Gorge is just 30 minutes’ drive from the M6 via the M54, and three hours from London. Birmingham is just over 45 minutes from Telford, offering convenient rail connections to the rest of the country.

Staying thereCoalport Station Holidays

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(01952 885 674; coalportstation.com) offers the most unusual option: a pair of refurbished classic railway carriages providing luxurious self-catering apartments at the front of the old station house; one carriage sleeps six, the other four, and both are guaranteed to thrill children. Four-night rental from £350. Sleeps four-six.

Self-catering cottages and apartments are also available from Eleys of Ironbridge (0845 268 0763; ironbridgeholiday cottage.co.uk) and Ironbridge Holiday Cottages (0800 633 5181; ironbridgeholiday cottages.co.uk).

The Calcutts House (01952 882631; calcuttshouse.co.uk) offers attractive B&B

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accommodation. Doubles start at £55, including breakfast.

The Best Western Valley Hotel (01952 432247; www.thevalleyhotel.co.uk). Doubles start at £89, room only. More inforMation

visitironbridge.co.ukVisitEngland.com/

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Any old iron: the historic bridge, built in 1779

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evening Standard Tuesday 6 may 2014 � � Tuesday 6 may 2014 evening Standard

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