How do cultural practices impact wine aroma and flavor? Nick Dokoozlian E&J Gallo Winery Nick Dokoozlian E&J Gallo Winery

How do cultural practices

impact wine aroma and flavor?

How do cultural practices

impact wine aroma and flavor?

Nick DokoozlianE&J Gallo Winery

Nick DokoozlianE&J Gallo Winery

How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard? How do we manage grape and wine flavor in the vineyard?

Outline

•Measuring quality and flavor development•Practices influencing flavor development

•Harvest date•Crop load •Late season water status•Trellis •Clonal selection

•Summary

Outline

•Measuring quality and flavor development•Practices influencing flavor development

•Harvest date•Crop load •Late season water status•Trellis •Clonal selection

•Summary

Measuring grape quality Measuring grape quality

Color Mouthfeel Aroma Taste

Flavor = aroma x taste


HarvestDate

Average Brix at harvest(all red varieties in California)

Year1990 1992 1994 1996 1998 2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010

Sou

ble

solid

s (B

rix)

21

22

23

24

25

Mean soluble solids of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes

at harvest in California

?

Cabernet Sauvignon

Soluble solids (oBrix)

Fla

vor

inte

nsity

via

sen

sory

0

1

2

3

4

5

VegetativeCharacteristics

FruitCharacteristics

Berry maturity metricsBerry maturity metrics

Berry Sensory

Berry Sensory

Berry sensory trends •Trained tasters can consistently distinguish several different flavor or aroma buckets during ripening

•Significant sensory trendsare apparent during the later stages of ripening (>20 oBrix)

Berry sensory trends •Trained tasters can consistently distinguish several different flavor or aroma buckets during ripening

•Significant sensory trendsare apparent during the later stages of ripening (>20 oBrix)

Sensory “flavor buckets” in grape berries near harvest

Category Sensory buckets

Responsible compounds

Negative

Positive

Veggie

Green fruit Fresh fruit Cooked or jammy fruit

Methoxypyrazine C6 compounds

Glycosylated bound precursors, acid esters and thiols

Ex: norisoprenoids

?

Cabernet Sauvignon


Fla

vor

inte

nsity

via

sen

sory

0

1

2

3

4

5



?

Cabernet Sauvignon


Fla

vor

inte

nsity

via

sen

sory

0

1

2

3

4

5



?

Cabernet Sauvignon


Fla

vor

inte

nsity

via

sen

sory

0

1

2

3

4

5



Sugar-based harvest

?

Cabernet Sauvignon


Fla

vor

inte

nsity

via

sen

sory

0

1

2

3

4

5



Sugar-based harvest

Sensory-basedharvest


22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

Aro

ma

inte

nsity

via

sen

sory

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

Vegetativearoma in wine

Jammy fruitin grapes

Vegetativearoma in grapes

Jammy fruitin wine

Berry to Wine Sensory Berry to Wine Sensory

Linking berry and wine sensory Berry sensory is subjective and not high- throughput

Can we use chemistry to describe our major aromas buckets?

•Vegetable •Green fruit•Fresh fruit•Jammy fruit

Are chemical finger prints for each bucket possible ?

Berry sensory is subjective and not high- throughput

Can we use chemistry to describe our major aromas buckets?

•Vegetable •Green fruit•Fresh fruit•Jammy fruit

Are chemical finger prints for each bucket possible ?

Grape aromas & aroma precursorsGrape aromas & aroma precursors

Methoxypyrazine • Veggie aroma

Free volatile aromas• Alcohols, aldehydes, terpenoids, norisoprenoids

Glucose glycosides • Flavor precursors bound to sugars

Fatty acid esters• Acid esters (fresh fruity notes in all cultivars)

Thiols

• Sulfur based precursors in grapes ( ex. cysteine) - tropical notes in Sauvignon blanc, other cultivars

Sensory “flavor buckets” in grape berries near harvest

Category Sensory buckets

Responsible compounds

Negative

Positive

Veggie

Green fruit Fresh fruit Cooked or jammy fruit

Methoxypyrazine C6 compounds

Glycosylated bound precursors, acid esters and thiols

Ex: norisoprenoids

Jammy fruit aromasJammy fruit aromas

CompoundCompound AromaAroma

Benzyl alcohol (ppb)

Phenethyl alcohol (ppb)

Geraniol (ppb)

B-ionone (ppb)

Terpinene (ppb)

Linalool (ppb)

Eucalyptol (ppb)

B-damasecenone (ppb)

Benzyl alcohol (ppb)

Phenethyl alcohol (ppb)

Geraniol (ppb)

B-ionone (ppb)

Terpinene (ppb)

Linalool (ppb)

Eucalyptol (ppb)

B-damasecenone (ppb)

Red berry

Roses

Citric

Prune

Citrus

Flowery, lavender

Eucalyptus

Rose wood

Red berry

Roses

Citric

Prune

Citrus

Flowery, lavender

Eucalyptus

Rose wood

The Odor Activity Value (OAV)

OAV=

Concentration of target

compound in grape

Known sensory detection

threshold in water

OAV=

Example:

= 40 100 ppt

4000 ppt

Cabernet Sauvignon S - D03


18 20 22 24 26

Aro

ma

com

poun

d in

dex

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

Sen

sory

rat

ing

(1-5

)

1.5

2.0

2.5

3.0

3.5

4.0

Veggie

Chemistry

Sensory

Cabernet Sauvignon Veggie

Cabernet Sauvignon Veggie

Aro

ma

act

ivity

va

lue

Chemistry



18 20 22 24 26

Aro

ma

co

mp

ou

nd

ind

ex

30

40

50

60

70

80

Se

nso

ry r

atin

g (

1-5

)

-1

0

1

2

3Green fruit

Chemistry

Sensory

Cabernet Sauvignon Green fruit

Cabernet Sauvignon Green fruit

Aro

ma

act

ivity

va

lue

Cabernet Sauvignon Jammy fruit

Cabernet Sauvignon Jammy fruit



18 20 22 24 26

Aro

ma

com

poun

d in

dex

20

30

40

50

60

70

Sen

sory

rat

ing

(1-5

)

-1

0

1

2

3

4

5

Jammy fruit

Chemistry

Sensory

Aro

ma

act

ivity

va

lue

How do we synchronize berry sugar and flavor accumulation ?

Managing wine flavor & alcohol in the vineyard

Managing wine flavor & alcohol in the vineyard

Cabernet Sauvignon


Fla

vor

inte

nsity

via

sen

sory

0

1

2

3

4

5



Changes in berry sensory over time


2004Cabernet Sauvignon


Fla

vo

r in

ten

sit

y v

ia s

en

so

ry

0

1

2

3

4



2004

Rapid sugar accumulation due to low crop loadDelayed flavor development due to environment, ripening rate

Cabernet Sauvignon


Fla

vo

r in

ten

sit

y v

ia s

en

so

ry

0

1

2

3

4





2005Slow sugar accumulation due to large crop load


Crop Load or

Vine Balance

Canopy size Fruit yield

Crop Load Yield to pruning weight ratio

integrates vine capacity and yield

Accounts for differences in vineyard design, plant density, vine vigor and site capacity

Vine yieldVine yield

Pruning weightPruning weight Expected ripening rate Expected ripening rate

< 4< 4

5 – 85 – 8

> 10> 10

Too little crop = rapid Too little crop = rapid

Balanced = optimumBalanced = optimum

Too much crop = slowToo much crop = slow

Vine balance and ripening rateVine balance and ripening rate

Time

1 8 15 22 29 6 13 20 27 3 10

Sol

uble

sol

ids

(Brix

)

16

18

20

22

24

26

28

30

32

September October November

Under-cropped vinesYield = 4 tons per hectare

Yield pruning weight ratio = 3

Balance - cropped vinesYield = 15 tons per hectare


Over - cropped vinesYield = 30 tons per hectare


Cabernet Sauvignon

Time

1 8 15 22 29 6 13 20 27 3 10

Sol

uble

sol

ids

(Brix

)

16

18

20

22

24

26

28

30

32

September October November

Under-cropped vinesYield = 4 tons per hectare


Balance - cropped vinesYield = 15 tons per hectare


Over - cropped vinesYield = 30 tons per hectare


Cabernet Sauvignon

Soluble solids (Brix)

20 22 24 26 28

-da

mas

ceno

neO

dor

Act

ivity

Val

ue

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

Balanced Cropped = 8:1

UnderCropped = 3:1

Over Cropped = 14:1

Soluble solids (Brix)

20 22 24 26 28

-da

mas

ceno

neO

dor

Act

ivity

Val

ue

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

TTThreshold

Rat

io o

f dar

k fr

uit t

o gr

een

arom

as

Balanced-cropped8:1

Over-cropped14:1

Under-cropped3:1

Yield:Pruning Weight Ratio

2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Met

hoxy

pyra

zine

Odo

r A

ctiv

ity V

alue

0

5

10

15

20

-da

mas

ceno

neO

dor

Act

ivity

Val

ue

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

800

900

Undercropped

Overcropped

Su

gar

acc

um

ula

tio

n r

ate

(oB

rix)

Berry ripening (time)Veraison Harvest

High LA:FW(Under cropped)

Low LA:FA(Over cropped)

sugar

time

How important is

to:

How does ripening rate affect berry aroma at maturity ?

How does ripening rate affect berry aroma at maturity ?

•Fruit aroma accumulation? •Green aroma degradation?

Flavor accumulationRate?


Late Season Water Stress

Merlot 5B - Ripperdan

Date

8/22 8/29 9/5 9/12 9/19 9/26 10/3 10/10 10/17 10/24 10/31

Ber

ry w

eigh

t (g

)

1.3

1.4

1.5

1.6

ControlRamp-up

Ramp-up

Begin ramp-up Control

Ramp-up irrigation = 100% ETcControl irrigation = 70% ETc

Begin treatmentat 21 Brix

Vine response to irrigation levels during the final stages of ripening

Cabernet Sauvignon - Lodi

Treatment

Soluble solids at harvest (Brix)

Berry Color

(mg/g)

IBMP (ppt)

Bound aroma

precursors(ppt)

Standard 26.7a 1.2 a 2.1 a 50,560 b

Ramp-up 24.5 b 1.1 a 1.4 a 59,860 a

From: Prichard et al 2005


Trellis Design

and Canopy

Efficiency

45% Exposed LA

35% Exposed LA

75% Exposed LA

65% Exposed LA

Leaf Area / Crop Weight Ratio (m2/kg)

0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9

To

tal S

olu

ble

So

lids

(oB

rix)

18

19

20

21

22

23

VerticalGDCLyre

CHENIN BLANC TRELLIS TRIAL, DAVIS, CA

From Kliewer and Dokoozlian - 2000

IndicesIndices MeasureMeasure

Production efficiencyProduction efficiency

Canopy efficiencyCanopy efficiency

Fruit microclimate Fruit microclimate

Fruit yieldFruit yield

Pruning weightPruning weight

Exposed leaf areaExposed leaf area

Total leaf areaTotal leaf area

Exposed clustersExposed clusters

Total clustersTotal clusters

Back to basics - performance metrics


Clonal Selection

Merlot Clones – 2009 Vintage

All clones adjusted to similar crop loads (~7:1)

following berry set

Summary Summary

• Maturity measures are changing from sugar-based metrics to flavor-based metrics Berry sensory and analytical tools can monitor

berry flavor profiles

• Vine balance (ratio of yield to pruning weight) is critical to fruit ripening rate and flavor development Synchronizing sugar and flavor accumulation

• Greater focus on the impact of other vineyard practices on flavor development is needed

• Maturity measures are changing from sugar-based metrics to flavor-based metrics Berry sensory and analytical tools can monitor

berry flavor profiles

• Vine balance (ratio of yield to pruning weight) is critical to fruit ripening rate and flavor development Synchronizing sugar and flavor accumulation

• Greater focus on the impact of other vineyard practices on flavor development is needed

Acknowledgements Acknowledgements

• David Vasquez, Luis Sanchez, Marin Mendez, Jim O’Donnell and Nona Ebisuda

• Mike Cleary, Beth Wilson and Lee Raley

• Laure David, Jim Kolsky and Lyndsay Noble

• Cyd Yonker and Tom Pugh

• Alan Reynolds and Jim Collins

• David Vasquez, Luis Sanchez, Marin Mendez, Jim O’Donnell and Nona Ebisuda

• Mike Cleary, Beth Wilson and Lee Raley

• Laure David, Jim Kolsky and Lyndsay Noble

• Cyd Yonker and Tom Pugh

• Alan Reynolds and Jim Collins

Documents

How do cultural practices impact wine aroma and flavor? Nick Dokoozlian E&J Gallo Winery Nick Dokoozlian E&J Gallo Winery