HOW TO BUILD A PAIT 101

8/8/2019 HOW TO BUILD A PAIT 101

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HOW TO BUILD A PIAT

Here is a list of some of the tools you will need:

Drill & bits

Dermal & bitsScrewdrivers

Grinder

Fileheat gun

sand paper

you will also need some 10 round tubes and a 1/2" PVC elbow to make your tube adapter out of.

(just for your info if you did not know the difference. A reducer COUPLING is one thatglues on the outside of pipe to reduce from one

size to another. While a reducer BUSHING glues inside a coupling or elbow to reduce itdown to a smaller size.)

Lets get started with cutting the ridges out of a couple of your fittings. If you look down

inside of your 2" to 3" coupling you

will see a raised ridge, you will need to Dremel this ridge out so that you 2" pipe canslide all the way through it. (#1 in picture 1)

Next you will need to Dremel the ridge out of your 2" to 1" reducer bushing so that you

1" PVC pipe will be able to slid all the way through it. Then just stick your 1" pipe intoyour bushing so that you will have something to hold onto, while you grind off the

outside ridge on this bushing as well.

******(do not glue anything at this time)****** (The ridge you need to grind off theoutside is #2 in picture 1)The reason you will need to grind this ridge off is because you will be gluing it into your

2" COUPLING backwards. Once you get it

ground off and are sure it will fit go ahead and glue your 2" to 1" bushing into your 2"coupling. You will notice that it will not go all the

way in bit that it leaves a little sticking out of the 2" coupling, grind off the excess.

Ok now that we have those pieces ready, let’s cut our pipes down.

First cut your 1" PVC off at 30" (stem and body of Bomb), now cut your 2" PVC off at

21 3/8" (Main body of PIAT) You will need to cut

two pieces of 3" PVC, the first at 13 1/4" (For the bomb tray) and the second at 12" to cutup for other parts. Now rip your 12" piece of

3" PVC in half, you should now have two 12" pieces of PVC that looks like #4 in picture

2 (I used a table saw to rip these parts but, you could with a jig saw). Set one piece asideand heat the other one up until it is soft then press it around the outside of your 13" piece

of

3" PVC, that will make it a little bigger than the one you set aside. Now after it cools youwill need to rip two 1/2" wide by 12" long strips



out of it, they should look like #1 in picture 2. Now rip the rest of it down to two 1 1/4"

by 12 " strips. You will need these strips later as shims to center your marker. (that is

what #2 and #3 in picture 2 is.)

The stock area. let’s get started there.

Clean about 2" of your 2" PVC pipe that you have cut off to 21 3/8". Now clean on theinside of your 1 1/4" to 2" reducer coupling (#2 in picture 4), all you need to clean is the

2" side of this coupling. Now put a little glue on your 2" pipe were you cleaned it and in

the 2" side of your 1 1/4" to 2" reducer bushing and slide them together. Now a 9 oz tank stock (#1 in picture 4) should slide over the outside of the small end of your reducer

coupling. You may even have to tap it on, I did not have to glue mine on, but you may

want to.

Now on to the other end of your 2" PVC main tube.

If you look close at picture 5 you will be able to see how I attached the 3" Bomb tray, 2"

main body, and 1" bomb stem.

In the picture with numbers here is what each number is;#1 is the 1" bomb tube.

#2 is the bomb fins.#3 is the 1" to 2" reducer bushing that you cut the inside lip out of and glued into your 2"

coupling.

#4 is the 2" coupling.

#5 is the 2" to 3" reducer coupling.

Ok all we will be working with now is the 2" PVC main body, your 2" to 3" reducer

coupling, & your 2" coupling.(that you have already glued your 2" to 1" bushing into backwards and ground off to look

like #3 in picture 5 (I will call this your bomb adapter)

Now clean the insides of your 2" to 3" reducer coupling that you cut the lip out of. (this isyour bomb tray adapter) Clean also the 2" side of your 2" coupling (Bomb adapter) and

about 4" of the end of your 2" PVC pipe main body.

Now that everything is clean and ready to go together you will need to move kind of quickly so get everything together and ready before

you start applying glue. Apply glue to about 3" of the outside of your 2" PVC main body.

Now take your Bomb adapter (2" coupling) and apply glue to the inside of the 2" side.

Now take your Bomb tray adapter (2" to 3"reducer coupling) and apply glue to the 2" side and slide it down over your 2" PVC main

body until about 1 1/2" of the 2" PVC main body is sticking out of the 3" side. Now grab

your bomb adapter and slide it down on the 2" PVC pipe that is sticking out of the 3"side. You may need to push down hard to make it slide on all the way and it may make

the bomb tray adapter move down a little farther as well,

this is OK. Next we will be working on the bomb tray part of our PIATs.

Picture 3 is numbered as;

#1, Is the toilet float that we will make our bomb out of later.

#2, Is the three screws that attach the float to the bomb tray.



#3 Is the Bomb tray end support ring.(we will make these now)

#4, Is the bomb tray bead. (we made these the already)

#5, Is your 2" to 3" adapter coupling.

Now to make your ring( #3) you will need to find your 3" coupling. Now that you have

your 3" coupling you need to cut off a 3/4" ringfrom it and this 3/4" ring is what you need, deburr it and save it.

Now for the main body of the bomb tray.

Take your 3" PVC pipe that you cut off to 13 1/4". You will need to draw a straight linefrom one end to the other to get started.

Now measure over from that line and put another line parallel to the first one. Now glue

your 3/4" support ring on the front of your pipe. (it should look like the picture)

Now you can glue your 3" bomb tray into your 2" to 3" coupling. If you did not glue youtank stock on, you will not have to worry about getting the 4 1/2" area between the

parallel lines at the top. If you did glue your stock on make sure the 4 1/2" area is up.

Because this is the area that you will cut out with your dremmel.

Now that you have cut out the 4 1/2" area Between the two parallel lines deburr it and getyour strips you cut before. Lay them along the side of your bomb tray and mark them, so

you can cut them down to fit in the area of #4 in the picture. Now glue them to the side of the bomb tray and let dry. Once it is dry use you dremmal

to round them off like in the picture. Now your bomb tray is finished and it should start to

look like a PIAT.

Now we will work on the PIAT Bomb.

If you look at picture 3 again you will notice these;

#1- Is the Toilet float.#2- Screw

#3- Bomb tray ring

Then in picture 5 you will Find;

#1- is Bomb stem (1" PVC cut to 24" long)

#2- Bomb fins Cut out of flat plastic about 1/8" thick. They will need to be about 3" longBy 3/4" tall.

#3- is the 1" to 2" bushing.

#4- is your 2" coupling

#5- is the 2" to 3" coupling & the outside of the bomb tray.

We will start off with your toilet float. You will need to cut two holes in it so that it will

slide over you 1" PVC pipe. Make sure youdon't get any hurry. Cut the hole small and slowly make it larger as you need until you

can just force it over the 1" PVC pipe.

Now take the 1" PVC pipe and apply glue to about 3" of one end and force it into your 1"to 2" bushing ( #3), you will want to push it in about 4". Now slide your toilet float onto

your Bomb stem (1" PVC pipe), until it hits the Bomb tray ring (#3). I then applied glue

to all areas of the toilet float that is in contact with PVC. Then I drilled through the end

bomb tray ring and into the float on each side. Then I put one screw in each side. You



will now notice that you have a lot of 1" PVC pipe sticking out of your float, You will

need to cut it off, where you only have about 1 1/2" of pipe sticking out of your float.

To attach the fins just apply a little glue to each fin and hold it in place until the glue setsenough to hold them in place. Then you can apply more glue if you want. Now you

should have your bomb made and are almost finished with your PIAT.

Next we will talk about how to mount your marker into the PIAT.

I will go through how I mounted my marker into the PIAT. You may have to do it a little

different but it will be basically the same.If you look at picture 6 you should get the idea of how to mount a marker into the PIAT.

First you will need to measure forward from the back of the stock 15 3/4" and put a mark

on the bottom of your PIAT. This is where

the back of your marker trigger grip should be. Now measure your markers main body. Mine was about 1" by about 7", with the back of

my trigger grip being forward about 1" from the back. So I marked two parallel lines 1"

apart along the bottom of my PIAT. Then I measured back 1" from my 15 3/4" mark 1"

and drew a line. Then I measured forward from that line 7" and drew another line. thisgave me my rough marker hole. I then cut it out to see if my marker would fit noting

where my marker feed tube (#2 in picture 7) hit at in the top of the tubing. I then cut thatarea out so that the feed neck would fit through. Now you will notice in picture 7 some

small holes (#1), they are for wire ties, so that it will hold your marker solidly in the

PIAT. You will also notice in picture 6 the shims that I have glued into the top of my

PIAT. They are to center my marker in the tube. You will need to play with it a little untilyou figure out just how much you will have to shim your marker to get your barrel to

be center of your bomb tube.

Then to screw your barrel into your marker you will need some dowel rod and black tape.Wrap some black tape around the dowel rod until it fits real tight into the end of your

barrel and then slid it into the bomb tube and into your maker body and then turn the

dowel until your barrel is tight. Now paint it all and you are finished with your PIAT.

All that is left is to make a 10 round tube adapter.

I have changed mine up a little from picture 9. What I did was buy a 1/2" PVC coupling(#1) and heat it up until it was soft then I forced it into

my marker feed neck. Then pulled it out and forced in the other end of the coupling. This

will make the coupling just a little smaller. Then while that end was still in the feed neck

I forced in the open end of a 10 round tube (#2) and let it all cool until it hardened.

And when done it should look like picture 8. I added a 5 round shotgun shell holder to

mine. (#1)

PICTURES

Thanks to George "Snipes" Miller of Her Majesty’s Commonwealth Forces, for the plans

and pictures.





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HOW TO BUILD A PAIT 101