Insider’s Guide: Top Wildlife Photography Spots in Botswana and Namibia

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Insider’s GuideTop Wildlife Photography

Spots in Botswana and Namibia

Shem Compion

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First published by Jacana Media (Pty) Ltd in 2012

10 Orange StreetSunnysideAuckland Park 2092South Africa(+27 11) 628-3200www.jacana.co.zaJob no. 001632

© Shem Compion, 2012

All rights reserved.

ISBN 978-1-4314-0259-5 Also available as an e-bookd-PDF ISBN 978-1-4314-0715-6 Cover design by Shawn Paikin and Maggie DaveyBack cover photo © Linda MorrisonSet in Sabon 9.5/13ptPrinted and bound by Craft Print, Singapore

See a complete list of Jacana titles at www.jacana.co.za


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Contents

Contents

Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

How to use this book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Wildlife photography and the seasons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Cameras and equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Understanding light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Understanding composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Animal behaviour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Travel in remote areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Behaviour and ethics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Seasonality and local movements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Botswana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Botswana introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Okavango Delta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

The Panhandle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Delta fringe and seasonal floodplains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Chief’s Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59

Godikwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

Linyanti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Chobe Riverfront . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

Savute, Chobe National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95


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Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Deception Valley and Deception Pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111

Makgadikgadi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123

Makgadikgadi Pans and Lekhubu Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132

Nxai Pan National Park and Baines’ Baobabs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135

Northern Tuli Game Reserve, Tuli Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139

Other photographic highlights in Botswana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153

Mabuasehube Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153

Khutse Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153

Namibia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 Namibia introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157

Southern deserts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161

Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164

NamibRand Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177

Swakopmund and Walvis Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185

Desert-adapted elephants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201

Etosha National Park, Kunene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213

Other photographic highlights in Namibia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237

Quiver-tree forest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237

Spitzkoppe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237

Epupa Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .238

The Caprivi Strip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .238


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Preface

Preface

Preparing to go on safari in another country is a daunting task, and one that is made even more difficult if you are planning to make it a photographic holiday. This book will guide you through your preparations with ease. It tells you which seasons are best for visiting specific areas within Botswana and Namibia and what equipment will be best for photographing the available subjects. Even if you are forced to go on safari in the ‘wrong season’ (is there ever a wrong season for the wildlife photographer?) this book details what you can expect to see and photograph. This will take you to the places where you will get the best results and make your hours of photography more productive. I’ve placed a strong emphasis on making it as easy as possible for you to find what you want to photograph, allowing you to concentrate on getting great images, saving you a lot of physical and mental energy.

This book is best used in conjunction with field identification guides and maps of the areas you are visiting. Although I have detailed 10 main locations for photographing wildlife, I have also covered many of the smaller locations and local specialities. This will give you a clear idea of what to expect in each area in terms of wildlife and photographic opportunities.

The areas covered in the book must be viewed as the starting point for your own exploration of these vast countries and will hopefully guide you on your own personal journey with wildlife photography.

A dune flight over the Namib will give you a stunning view of the lines, curves

and shadows.


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Side lighting adds depth and texture to an image that front lighting just cannot do.

The Okavango Delta offers open floodplains, termite-mound islands and water

channels that make it one of the best wildlife destinations in the world.


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How to use this book

A series of icons at the start of each chapter indicates the photographic opportunities for landscapes, birds, mammals, predators and river swamps.

The darkened icons for each chapter indicate what the specific area is best for and what you can expect to photograph.

The chapters are colour coded with tabs on the side of each page. By using the photographic icons and colour-coded tabs together, you can quickly search for both area and subject. For example, if you are looking for cheetahs in Botswana, the book will guide you to the information on the Central Kalahari Game Reserve where you can find and photograph cheetahs.

KUNENE

OMUSATI OSHANA OHANGWENA

OSHIKOTOKAVANGO

CAPRIVI

OTJOZONDJUPA

OMAHEKEEVONGO

KHOMAS

HARDAP

KARAS

NAMIBIA

Rundu

Windhoek

Walvis Bay

Etosha National Park

Maun

Molepolole

Gaborone

Central Kalahari Game Reserve

NGAMILAND

CENTRAL

BOTSWANAGHANZI

KGALAGADI

KWENENG

SOUTHERN

KGATLENG

NORTH-EAST

SOUTH EAST

Francistown

How to use this book

The chapters in the book are named after the main areas discussed for easy reference.


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Botswana introduction

Botswana is one of the least mountainous countries in southern Africa, and while the topography can be monotonous, the wildlife is wonderfully varied. Time spent in any one of its wildlife areas will reveal it as one of the top wildlife photography spots in Africa.

Much of Botswana’s northern geography is sculpted by the Okavango River, which flows in from the north-west of the country. The combined influence of the Okavango and Linyanti swamps has created many of the wildlife areas in the country, including the Okavango Delta, Savute, Selinda Spillway, Boteti River and the Makgadikgadi Pans. The Okavango Delta is the most well known of the wildlife reserves, although both the Chobe and Central Kalahari game reserves are recognised around the world as superb conservation areas.

A few factors have contributed to making Botswana’s wildlife reserves what they are today. In a country the size of France, the population density is incredibly low with only 1.8 million people, which places very little pressure on natural resources. An estimated 39 per cent of the country has been set aside for environmental protection, and when ecotourism was introduced the government opted for a low-impact, high-revenue model. This effectively avoided mass-market tourism and made

The Okavango offers the best African wild dog viewing and photography

on the continent.

Maun

Molepolole

Gaborone

Central Kalahari Game Reserve

NGAMILAND

CENTRAL

BOTSWANAGHANZI

KGALAGADI

KWENENG

SOUTHERN

KGATLENG

NORTH-EAST

SOUTH EAST

Francistown


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Insider’s Guide

the country’s most pristine areas financially viable. The government’s sound conservation policies have allowed Botswana’s wildlife areas to flourish, which have in turn become a shining example of conservation success in Africa.

The Okavango Delta is the first destination for any visitor to Botswana, and is famous for its wilderness, its waterways and the incredible wildlife. The bird photography in the Panhandle is world class, with a myriad of colourful species easily photographed in a single morning cruise. The abundance of stories passed on about the spectacular wildlife viewing has resulted in the many books that have been written about the delta. Places such as Chitabe, Chief’s Island, Godikwe, Sandibe and Xakanaxa have become legendary. The Linyanti Swamps lie further to the north and offer excellent wildlife viewing. To the east, flowing from the Linyanti, the Savuti Channel runs into the Savuti Marsh. During both the wet and dry months this area abounds with huge bull elephants, large lion prides and pure wilderness. The Chobe River runs in the north-east, some 90km from the Savuti. Elephants and buffalo roam here in their hundreds, with water birds flitting in between them on the luscious islands in the river. When you cruise among them you feel as if you are in another world. The pure exhilaration of viewing animals and birds while on the water is amazing.

The Central Kalahari Game Reserve is situated in the middle of the country where large black-maned lions roam the open pans and grassy plains. It is also home to unusual and smaller species like the suricate, ground squirrel and honey badger. The excellent predator viewing, along with exceptional opportunities for arid-bird photography, makes the reserve popular among wildlife photographers.

The Makgadikgadi Pans and Makgadikgadi Pans National Park lie in between these areas. Their endless salt pans and rock islands dotted with large baobabs make you feel like you are on the moon.

In addition to this there lies a reserve in the far eastern corner of the country that could easily be overlooked, but the Northern Tuli Game

Chief’s Island in the Okavango offers some

excellent predator photography.


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Reserve more than holds its own. This is a place so beautifully different from anything else in Botswana – a land of elephant, meandering rivers and leopard – that offers the visiting wildlife photographer something extra.

All in all, Botswana’s reserves combine to offer one of the best safari circuits in Africa, while providing great photographic opportunities. If you are searching for a safari that will test your photographic skills, offer you unmatched wildlife diversity, beautiful birds and large doses of action photography in true wilderness areas, then Botswana is a must. You just have to ask the many satisfied tourists who have ventured out into its famous reserves.

Carmine bee-eaters offer wonderful

in-flight photography compositions.


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Namibia introduction


A client of mine once said of Namibia, ‘I never knew one country could have so many different types of desert’. This single sentence has defined the vast, arid, desert country for me ever since.

Namibia has a reputation for wide open scenery with nothing but sand and mountains. Although this is largely true, the landscape ranges from grassy plains to rugged mountains filled with quiver trees and, of course, the ubiquitous sand dunes – some of the largest in the world. Namibia offers the landscape photographer some of the most spectacular arid-landscape scenery available in a country that is easily accessible to anyone with a sedan vehicle. The only downside is that in a country of this size you need a lot of time to explore it fully, but all photographers have time. The options for landscape photography are endless. The NamibRand Nature Reserve offers camel-thorn trees and grassy plains that overlook the Namib-Naukluft National Park, while the Sossusvlei lives up to its reputation for the best dune photography in the world. The dunes are not the only draw card though; some of the smaller pans and dunes, like Dead Vlei, will keep you enchanted for days.

Namibia offers a diversity of life that not many people fully appreciate and opportunities for some excellent alternative wildlife photography.

Sandwich Harbour provides ample bays and sand spits to add to your

compositional options.

KUNENE


OSHIKOTOKAVANGO

CAPRIVI

OTJOZONDJUPA

OMAHEKEEVONGO

KHOMAS

HARDAP

KARAS

NAMIBIA

Rundu

Windhoek

Walvis Bay

Etosha National Park


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Insider’s Guide

The endemic species of the coastal dune fields, many of which are unique to Namibia, will capture your imagination and fill your memory cards with their distinct beauty. The wildlife is not limited to the smaller creatures that survive in the harsh desert, since Namibia is also home to massive seal colonies that are full of creative photo possibilities. The countryside becomes less populated as you head further north.

The wildlife in the remote areas of northern Namibia is not confined by any man-made obstructions and you will come into contact with free-roaming desert elephants, Hartmann’s mountain zebras, lions and cheetahs among other animals. It is seldom that you find areas where animals can live free of the interference of man, but Namibia is one such place. And when you start thinking that it couldn’t get any better, Namibia offers you Etosha, one of the greatest wildlife reserves in Africa. The sheer number of animals at the waterholes in the national park will never cease to astound you.

Namibia has so much more to offer the photographer than the landscapes for which it has become famous. It hosts such a wide variety of wildlife subjects that many photographers return to Namibia year after year to try and capture another facet of the diversity of this desert country. Enjoy your visit here. It will most certainly not be your last.

NamibRand Nature Reserve offers a wealth of landscape photography

options for those who are willing to walk and search a bit.


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Desert-adapted elephants


Damaraland and Koakoland – Ugab, Hoarusib and Hoanib rivers

BackgroundNamibia is well known for being a remote country, but it is not until you explore the north-west regions that you truly experience the country’s remoteness. The Damaraland and Koakoland regions are characterised by rocky mountains, dry riverbeds and gravel roads that seem to go on forever. The villages and towns interspersed along these roads are invariably small and dusty, almost always with the last supplies of stock on their shelves.

It is the remoteness of this 60 000km2 region that has ensured that the wildlife population has remained largely untouched. What is more, it is one of the few areas in southern Africa that remains unfenced, so you can expect to see large free-roaming wildlife even while driving along the public roads in the north-west of the country. The fact that there are elephants, lions and desert black rhinos living on community-owned land is even more unusual and being able to easily photograph these animals is nothing short of sensational.

The desert-adapted elephants that inhabit the plains and dry riverbeds that lead towards the ocean are the region’s main attraction. Damaraland

A young elephant feeds from some green vegetation – a remnant of

the rainy season.

KUNENE


OSHIKOTO KAVANGO

CAPRIVI

OTJOZONDJUPA

OMAHEKE

EVONGO

KHOMAS

HARDAP

KARAS

NAMIBIA

Rundu

Windhoek

Walvis Bay

Damaraland

Koakoland

S19° 7’23” E13° 37’1”


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Insider’s Guide

is characterised by rugged mountains with ancient dry riverbeds meandering westwards through the mountains towards the Atlantic Ocean. These rivers have carved dramatic formations into the mountains and, very importantly, hold water almost all year round. This attracts many animals to drink, including the desert-adapted elephants. Despite the remoteness of the area, it is relatively easy to find and photograph the elephants, which is a truly unique Namibian experience.

The areaStretching north from the Brandberg mountain, the open, rugged terrain is your first indication that you are in the Damaraland region. Koakoland, some 200km to the north, is characterised by more open grassland plains in among the mountains. The Ugab River runs west towards the ocean and it is from this boundary northwards that you can potentially see desert-adapted elephants, although your chances increase as you move north and away from human habitation.

You can access the area in your own vehicle or you can choose to stay in one of the lodges that will drive you around their concessions. The self-drive option is preferable because you can drive directly to where the elephants have been seen, whereas the lodges are limited to their concessions. Despite their limitations, most lodges are located in good elephant country, so sightings are generally impressive. The elephants move out of the dry riverbeds in the rainy season and into the open bush country. This makes them more difficult to find, of course, so it’s better to visit the area in the dry season. The rainy season also brings with it the risk of flooding rivers. Travelling in this part of Namibia requires a reliable 4x4 vehicle and some good off-road driving skills. If you are self-driving you will need to be fully self-sufficient as supplies and fuel in these regions can be limited.

The elephants range across the entire area south of the Kunene River. The Hoarusib, Hoanib, Huab and Ugab rivers provide the elephants with drinking water in the desert areas. Since these rivers are relatively far from each other the elephants have adapted to walk further for water and food than other African elephants. The waterholes and feeding grounds can be up to 70km apart, and the elephants have been known to average 40km of walking per day. To cope with the extreme heat and dry


205


This must be the only place in the world where you can photograph Hartman’s

mountain zebra from the side of a public road.

Water from the rainy season seeps down the Hoanib River attracting the

elephants and other free-roaming animals in the dry season.


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Other animals in the riverbeds include the diminutive steenbok.

A desert elephant dusting itself in the harsh environment.


207


conditions, they walk and feed at night and rest during the day. It must be noted that these are not a separate species or subspecies, but rather an ecotype unique to Namibia, behaviorally adapted to the hyper-arid conditions.

The Ugab is the southernmost of the rivers in Damaraland and the easiest to access, making it an ideal destination for the self-drive photographer. Most of the accommodation in Damaraland can be found near the Ugab River. Although elephants are regularly seen in this region, the viewing of elephants and other game animals is at its best further to the north. The road from Palmwag – the M128 that takes you north to Sesfontein – is a real wildlife viewing highlight in my opinion. Look out for the ancient two-leaved welwitschia plants, which grow in great numbers right next to the road. This is also an excellent place to see Hartmann’s mountain zebra, and unfortunately one of the few places that you still can. They will often come to drink at the drifts, which makes them easy to photograph if you are patient. Gemsbok and springbok are also often seen here and in the dry season they congregate in large herds that are easily photographed. The light that saturates the plains in the dry season is fantastic and makes for a wonderful afternoon drive with camera in hand.

Sesfontein is situated close to the point where the Hoanib River enters the mountains. The Hoanib offers the best opportunity to photograph the desert-adapted elephants on your own. The river is dry for most of the year, but you will need a 4x4 vehicle to access the riverbed. The river itself cuts right into the mountains, producing some spectacular scenery, including the large ana trees that grow in the sand along the river banks. Elephants regularly feed on the seedpods of these large acacia-like trees and sometimes even stand up on their hind legs to reach the pods. During the heat of the day you will often find elephants resting in the shade of these trees. There are a number of relatively permanent waterholes along the river that the elephants visit time and again, especially in the dry season. The stark, craggy mountains create perfect backdrops for these scenes.

Several other species are common in the riverbed, such as gemsbok, springbok and giraffe. I have seen cheetah on two occasions and while there are lions about, they tend to be shy. A day or two of photography


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in the riverbed will expose you to the true feeling of the wilderness and you will most likely not see another soul during your stay.

The roads start to get a bit rough as you head north of Sesfontien towards Purros, but the wildlife and photography along the main road is still very good. The Hoarusib riverbed can be accessed at Purros as it cuts into the mountains and this is an excellent place to photograph the elephants. You can only go about halfway down the river before reaching the signs marking out the border of the Skeleton Coast National Park, which has restricted access. You will still have an opportunity to see the elephants in the riverbed and the scenery, as in the Hoanib, is fantastic. Desert black rhino patrol their territories all the way from the Hoarusib down to Palmwag. These animals are extremely shy and frequent only the most remote areas where human presence is minimal. Some of the lodges have rhino programs to keep track of the local rhinos’ movements, but even so sightings are rare and most often from a distance.

Although the Hoab River offers some good viewing of the desert elephants and other plains game, the Hoarusib and the Hoanib offer the best opportunities for seeing the elephants in amazing scenery. I would suggest calling ahead to the various lodges to find out about the local elephant movements before your visit, but the Hoarusib and the Hoanib are popular for a good reason and will offer you sightings of the Hartmann’s mountain zebra too.

Photography and equipmentFree-roaming animals can be skittish near vehicles and elephants have been known to display their discontent. It is wise to keep your distance and to approach slowly when you do to judge their mood. This situation calls for a longer lens, and I would suggest a 400mm lens for the elephant and a 500mm lens for animals like zebra and springbok. A consumer or pro-sumer camera should be more than adequate for your needs. If you are self-driving a beanbag or vehicle mount is necessary for the support of your long lenses. If you stay at one of the lodges then a monopod will be the best support for your lens. The dust in the area, even during the rainy season, can be very invasive, so protect your cameras with either a rain jacket or a blanket.


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It is important to include the landscapes when portraying desert scenes. I find that a 70–200mm lens is ideal, as it allows you to zoom out and frame the animals in the lower foreground while keeping the landscape in the top of the image. If you are a keen landscape photographer, a wide-angle lens and tripod will be indispensable in the riverbeds where trickles of water meander down and are overshadowed by the large mountains in the background. Travelling through this area is one of my personal Namibian highlights.

Getting thereThere are various lodges in the area scattered between Sesfontein, Palmwag and along the Huab River. Although the lodges offer flights into the area, most people choose to drive in, even if they are staying at the lodges. You can expect long and dusty roads with serious ‘Damaraland dips’, even on the main roads. Uis is the southern entry point to the area and from there you can travel along the M126 to Palmwag, Sesfontein (Hoanib River) and Purros (Hoarusib River). Marienfluss lies even further to the north. You will need a reliable 4x4 vehicle and an experienced driver to negotiate the thick, soft sand of the riverbeds. Supplies in these areas are very limited, so you will need to be completely self-sufficient.

H ighlights• Close-up encounters with the desert-adapted elephants in

spectacular desert mountain country

• Good landscape photography with rugged and desolate mountains

• Free-roaming wildlife

• Lions and cheetahs, although rare, can be found in the area

• Good general animal sightings

• Unique Hartmann’s mountain zebra can be easily photographed

• True wilderness experience when you are inside the Hoanib and Hoarusib riverbeds


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Documents

Insider’s Guide: Top Wildlife Photography Spots in Botswana and Namibia