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Inspira Cowl…inspired by evvvie's amazing pompom hat on Ravelry™. Using long colour repeat yarns and a stranded knitting technique in corrugated rib, colours shift over a staggered rib pattern. Hues can merge together and then boldly diverge, much as ribbons of clouds over a vast landscape cast shadows, momentarily dimming the vista below. When knit with intense colours, you might stand out in an urban environment. Should you find yourself on the run from a shadowy international conspiracy, best leave this one behind on the bus, Jason. But if done up in soft tweeds and heathers evocative of Scotland, this might be just the thing to pull on as you head for the Highlands when going to ground: You'll blend right in. What are you waiting for? Start knitting your adventure. Directions are for three versions to knit, each with different rib patterns and yarn weights: Mesa rock in aran, Steampunk in fingering, and Afrique in aran/bulky weight. Difficulty level: fair to middling. Important! Read the Nitty Gritty Notes @ the end prior to CO.

Inspira Book Em Danno

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Page 1: Inspira Book Em Danno

Inspira Cowl…inspired by evvvie's amazing pompom hat on Ravelry™. Using long colour repeat yarns and a stranded knitting technique in corrugated rib, colours shift over a staggered rib pattern. Hues can merge together and then boldly diverge, much as ribbons of clouds over a vast landscape cast shadows, momentarily dimming the vista below.

When knit with intense colours, you might stand out in an urban environment. Should you find yourself on the run from a shadowy international conspiracy, best leave this one behind on the bus, Jason. But if done up in soft tweeds and heathers evocative of Scotland, this might be just the thing to pull on as you head for the Highlands when going to ground: You'll blend right in. What are you waiting for? Start knitting your adventure.

Directions are for three versions to knit, each with different rib patterns and yarn weights:

Mesa rock in aran, Steampunk in fingering, and Afrique in aran/bulky weight.

Difficulty level: fair to middling. Important! Read the Nitty Gritty Notes @ the end prior to CO.

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Inspira Cowl …. Mesa rock version

Mesa rock is knit from the bottom up with two yarns, a MC and a CC, over a staggered 2X2 knit and purl ribbing, with the ribs taller at the bottom and shortening towards the top, as though looking up at a mesa rock formation. Three repeats for each section. Two rounds of plain knit separate each ribbing. The rib lengths shift from rounds of 7-6-5, followed by a single rib of three rounds, and ending with two rounds of plain rib. (Note: I frequently Russian join (Rj) new colours in the original rose/ochre version, rearranging what came off the skein, but only occasionally for 2nd teal blue/grey.) Shape: wider at bottom to drape over one shoulder, narrowing at top. (Note: I later knit for TaskForce Inspira a cowl with 9-7-4 rib lengths that emulate much more clearly mesa rock formations.)

Finished measurements-Original rose/ochre version: 26 inches/66cm top circumference; 34 inches/86cm bottom circumference; 13 inches/33cm height; bottom edge to decrease round, 8 1/4 inches/22cm.

Teal blue/grey version: 24 inches/61cm top circumference; 32 inches/81cm bottom circumference; 12 inches/30.5cm height; bottom edge to decrease round, 7 ¾ inches/20cm.

Materials-Yarn: aran wt., 336 yards/307meters total of two long-repeat colourways. MC: 189 yds/172 meters; CC: 147 yds/134 meters. (Note: I used Lion Brand Amazing™ for both cowls pictured. Rose/ochre cowl, colourways Aurora, Mesa, Arcadia, Wildflowers. Teal blue/grey cowl, colourways Arcadia as MC/2 skeins, using only ½ oz, or 42 yds/38 meters from 2nd skein; Olympia as CC/1 skein.)

Needles: original, US 10/6mm and US 9/5.5mm circular. 2nd teal blue/grey: US 10/6mm, US 8/5mm circular. (Steel crochet hook for Russian joining/Rj, or use a tapestry needle.)

Gauge-over 4 inches/10 cm. Original rose/ochre: 19 sts X 22 rows. 2nd, teal blue/grey: 20 sts X 25 rows. (Note: My tension firms towards neckline to keep it from being floppy, and gauge changes.)

Mesa rock Directions: With 1 strand, on US 10/6mm needles, cable CO 144 sts. (You may switch when most convenient to US 9/5.5mm needles, or US 8/5mm as for smaller version 1.a, even if after working a few rounds.) Join for working in round, do not twist. Use a marker to keep track of rounds (a long bobby pin works well). Begin rib pattern by K2 with MC, P2 with CC. You can work round one with single yarn for both the knit and purl sts, adding the CC yarn in round two, if easier. I joined the CC yarn in round one.

Begin with the staggered three-stack of seven rounds of ribbing. To maintain the staggered effect, keep the yarn you assign to the purl columns the same throughout.

Rounds 1-7: K2, P2

Rounds 8-9: Drop the CC, knit all sts. (Note: Drop the CC for all K only rows, picking up again when working rib rounds)

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Inspira Cowl …. Mesa rock version......2nd page....

Rounds 10-16: P2, K2

Rounds 17-18: knit

Rounds 19-25: K2, P2

Rounds 26-27: knit

Begin the staggered three-stack of six rounds of ribbing. Rounds 28-33: P2, K2

Rounds 34-35: knit

Rounds 36-41: K2, P2

Rounds 42-43: knit

Rounds 44-49: P2, K2

Round 50: knit

Round 51: Decrease 20 sts by (k2tog, k5) around, ending with k4. Stitch count: begin round with 144sts; decrease 20 sts; end round with 124 sts. (Note: Decreases do not maintain pattern. The next rib will at times merge with previous rib. That's one reason why this is an experiment/recipe, see? Use closely hued colours over those ribs before and after decrease round to minimize the pattern break.)

Begin the staggered three-stack of five rounds of ribbing. Rounds 52-56: K2, P2

Rounds 57-58: knit

Rounds 59-63: P2,K2

Rounds 64-65: knit

Rounds 66-70: K2, P2; final five round stack.

Rounds 71-72: knit

Rounds 73-75: P2, K2. At end of third round, drop one yarn and cut, leaving enough length for your preferred method of weaving in. I used Russian joining for each cowl.

Rounds 76-77: P2, K2 with remaining yarn. BO just loose enough in rib.

Finishing: Block as you like. I jammed the cowl over my shoulders and pushed it out with my hands. You know, the way knits are never supposed to be treated. Now is when you will discover just how great spit splicing is. Me, I'll stick with Russian joining, thank-you very much. Be careful to not block/stretch out the neck edge, to avoid it from ruffling. The neckline “stands up” better when left unblocked. Pop it on and scan your horizons.

Page 4: Inspira Book Em Danno

Inspira Cowl ….Steampunk version

Steampunk is knit from the bottom up with two yarns, using a MC and a CC over a staggered and graduated 3X3 knit and purl rib pattern, emulating toothed gears, wheels within wheels, clockwork. Rounds follow a 12-6-3 pattern ribbing repeat. Two rounds of plain knit separate each ribbing. Shape: wide at bottom to drape over one shoulder, or even two in a light hug, narrowing at top.

Finished measurements-26 inches/66 cm top circumference; 36 inches/91 cm bottom circumference; 13 inches/33 cm height; bottom edge to decrease round, 9 1/4 inches/23.5 cm.

Materials-Yarn: fingering wt., 544 yards/498 meters total of two long-repeat colourways. MC: 332 yds/303.5 meters; CC: 212 yds/194 meters. ( I used Patons Kroy FX. Cadet for MC/2 skeins. Clay for CC/2 skeins, using only ½ oz, or 46 yds/42 meters from the 2nd skein.)

Needles: US 7/4.5mm circular. (Steel crochet hook for Russian joining/Rj, or use a tapestry needle.)

Gauge-over 4 inches/10 cm: 27sts X 30 rows (Note: My tension firms towards neckline, and gauge changes.)

Steampunk Directions: With 1 strand, on US 7/4.5mm needles, cable CO 204 sts. Join for working in round, do not twist. Use a marker to keep track of rounds (a long bobby pin works well). Begin rib pattern by K3 with MC, P3 with CC. You can work 1st round with single yarn for both the knit and purl sts , adding the 2nd yarn in round two, if easier. I did this with MC cadet/blue for the indigo cowl.

Begin 12-6-3 rib repeat, starting with twelve rounds of ribbing. To maintain the staggered effect, keep the yarn you assign to the purl columns the same throughout.

Rounds 1-12: K3, P3 (12 rib rounds)Rounds 13-14: Drop the CC, knit all sts. (Note: Drop the CC for all K only rows, picking up again for rib rounds)

Rounds 15-20: P3, K3 (6 rib rounds)Rounds 21-22: knit

Rounds 23-25: K3, P3 (3 rib rounds)Rounds 26-27: knit

Begin second staggered and graduated rib section, starting with twelve rounds of ribbing. Rounds 28-39: P3, K3 (12 rounds)

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Inspira Cowl ….Steampunk version....2nd page....

Rounds 40-41: knit

Rounds 42-47: K3, P3 (6 rib rounds)Rounds 48-49: knit

Rounds 50-52: P3, K3 (3 rib rounds)Rounds 53-54: knit

Begin third staggered and graduated rib section, starting with twelve rounds of ribbing. Rounds 55-66: K3, P3 (12 rib rounds)Round 67: knit

Round 68: Decrease 30 sts: k1, decrease by (k2tog, k5) 28 times, until there are 7 sts remaining in round, end by k2tog, k3, k2tog. Stitch count: begin round with 204 sts; decrease 30 sts; end round with 174 sts. (Note: Decreases do not maintain pattern. The next rib will at times merge with previous rib. That's one reason why this is an experiment/recipe, see? Use closely hued colours over those ribs before and after decrease round to minimize the pattern break.)

Rounds 69-74: P3, K3 (6 rib rounds)Rounds 75-76: knit

Rounds 77-79: K3, P3 (3 rib rounds)Rounds 80-81: knit

Rounds 82-93: P3, K3 (12 rib rounds)BO in rib. (Note: You may want to drop and cut one of the yarns a few rounds before the end, as in Mesa rock or Afrique . I chose to BO in rib using both yarns. I wanted the effect of clean columns of colour, similar to crayons side-by-side. Using a single yarn for the BO would be like a cap, effectively putting a lid on the edge, and containing the sweep of line. Next time, I may double knit the twelve rounds final rib.)

Finishing: Weave in ends. Block cowl in desired manner. I lightly stretch-blocked with my hands. Be careful to not block/stretch out the neck edge, to avoid it from ruffling. The neckline “stands up” better if left unblocked. Pop it on and head for the rails or trails.

Page 6: Inspira Book Em Danno

Inspira Cowl ….Afrique version

Afrique is a play in three acts, the first being the most complex: Braid-like edge, followed by a Basketweave Rib, and ending with Afrique Rib. The cowl is knit from the bottom up, with a braid-like twined dark and light border, followed by a simple 2X2 rib where alternate rounds are knit, giving the appearance of a basket weave. A staggered 2X2 rib pattern follows and shifts in rib length, echoing the look of African mudcloth textiles. The braid-like border is worth the extra time and effort, is only worked over three rounds, with the second being the most fussy. The yarns will twist up like a plumber's snake, and blessedly untwist in next round. Shape: wider at bottom, like a scoop neckline, narrows at collarbone, and stovepipes to top.

Finished measurements-19 ½ inches/49.5 cm top circumference; 27 ½ inches/70 cm bottom circumference; 10 ½ inches/26.7 cm height; bottom edge to decrease round, 2 ½ inches/1.27 cm.

Materials-Yarn: Mudcloth: Aran wt: MC 110 yds/100.6 meters (Noro Silk Garden, brown, 1 skein); Bulky wt: CC 50 yds/45.7 meters (Cascade Baby Alpaca Chunky, natural, ½ skein). Basket Weave rib: worsted wt: 45 yds/41 meters (Ella Rae Extrafine Heathers, goldenrod, ½ skein). Braid-like Edge, dark: bulky wt, 15 yds/13.7 meters (Universal Deluxe Chunky, ebony); Braid-like Edge, light: worsted wt, 15 yds/13.7 meters (Plymouth Galway Worsted, natural).

Needles: US 7/4.5mm, 24 inch circular. (Steel crochet hook for Russian joining/Rj, or use a tapestry needle.)

Gauge-over 4 inches/10 cm: 21 sts X 23 rows (Note: My tension firms towards neckline, and gauge changes.)

Directions...but first, a Note: Following an initial set-up round, the “braiding” is worked over the next two rounds in purl. To achieve this, the yarns must be twisted, or rotated in the same direction for the entire round each time the yarns are switched, alternating between the dark and light yarns in a 1X1 pattern. On the following round, the rotation is reversed. The direction the braid points depends on the initial rotation round being clockwise or counter clockwise.

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Inspira Cowl.... Afrique version.....2nd page I quite easily become mixed up on which direction to rotate the yarns during a round. To aid me, this is what I picture: when I bring the two yarns to the front to purl, I at first hold them together straight and perpendicular to myself, and I view this as a log. One side of the log is black along it's entire length, the other side is white. This black and white log is floating on water, and is rotating, just as when a lumberjack walks in place on it. As the log rotates, the black side dips below the water line and the white side rises out of the water. The two sides alternate, black, white, dark, light. To keep from falling into the water, I must keep the log rotating in the same direction for the entire round. When my round is to turn clockwise, as the black side dips below the water off to my right, the white side rises up on the left to take it's place, and then dips below the water off to the right when I have finished the purl st with light yarn. Clockwise: keep yarns rotating right. Counterclockwise, keep yarns rotating left. (Not sure if being right or left handed makes a difference, but I am a righty.)

Braid-like Edge: Taking your light and dark yarns for the edging, and holding the two yarns together, make a slip knot a few inches from the end and place on needle. This does not count as the first stitch, but is dropped and allowed to dangle before joining into a circle. CO 124 sts in long tail method, with one yarn over thumb and other over index finger. I worked dark over thumb, light over index finger. Slip original slip knot off needle, place marker on needle, a looped waste yarn, or rubber band will do. Join for working in round, being careful not to twist sts. You will want to reel off a generous amount of yarn of several yards/meters from both skeins for ease while working the rotation rounds. Occasionally, gently separate the twisting yarns further away from your needles. If this is too unwieldy, you might even take one of the skeins and physically carry it round and over the other skein. I did this in my first crack at this “Baltic braid” technique, though it took me a few hours to get through these three rounds. The effect was worth it.

Round 1: K1 dark, K1 light. Alternate yarns in this manner to end of round. Slip marker as you come to it for each round. Bring yarn to front. (Note: You do not need to twist this set-up round. I did for a slightly tidier weave, and knit the yarns with a counter-clockwise twist. The directions for rounds two and three remain the same. Since the yarn is brought to the front for purling in round two after being twisted on the previous knit round, the direction of the twist is automatically reversed.)

Round 2: P1 dark, P1 light, rotating yarns as they are worked counter-clockwise, allowing yarns to twist. (Note: Since the following round you will work the sts clockwise, they will gradually untwist and the round will become easier to work.)

Round 3: P1 dark, P1 light, rotating clockwise. Cut yarns, leaving enough length for Russian joining (Rj), or preferred method of joining next yarn for basket weave rib and weaving in.

Basketweave Rib Round 1: knit

Round 2: K2, P2

Round 3: knit

Round 4: K2, P2

Round 5 knit, cut yarn and join MC.

Afrique Rib ~~~ (Note: to avoid a horizontal line of MC yarn from the previous knit round, on the first CC purl round only for each rib, knit both the MC and the CC by 'K2 with MC, K2 with CC.' I used this modification with my inspira sepia, since the MC browns and CC ivory yarns were a high contrast.)

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Inspira Cowl …. Afrique version......3rd page

Rounds 1-3: knit only with MC. After 3rd round, join CC, using preferred method. I chose Rj.

Rounds 4-7: K2 with MC, P2 with CC. (4 rib rounds)

Round 8: knit

Round 9: Decrease 24 sts by: (k2tog, k5) twice only, then (k2tog, k3) 22 times or to the end. Stitch count: begin round with 124 sts; decrease 24 sts; end round with 100 sts.

Rounds 10-11: P2, K2 (2 rib rounds)

Rounds 12-13: knit

Rounds 14-15: K2, P2 (2 rib rounds)

Rounds 16-17: knit

Rounds 18-21: P2, K2 (4 rib rounds)

Rounds 22-23: knit

Rounds 24-30: K2, P2 (7 rib rounds)

Rounds 31-32: knit

Rounds 33-36: P2, K2 (4 rib rounds)

Rounds 37-38: knit

Rounds 39-40: K2, P2 (2 rib rounds)

Rounds 41-42: knit

Rounds 43-44: P2, K2 (2 rib rounds)

Rounds 45-46: knit

Rounds 47-51: K2, P2. (5 rib rounds) Cut CC, leaving enough length for weaving in. (I Rj to MC.)

Round 52: knit

Rounds 53-54: K2, P2. BO in rib.

Finishing: Weave in ends. Block cowl using preferred method. I lightly steam pressed from wrong side with an iron. No soaking nor pin blocking, just a gentle wave through the air to dry. Pop it on and go for a wetland walkabout.

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Inspira Cowl ….Nitty Gritty Notes....1st page

Abbreviations: k=knit Rj=Russian join

p=purl st(s)=stitch(es)

k2tog=knit 2 together MC=main colour

CO=cast on CC=contrast colour

BO=bind off

Russian joining with steel crochet hook: after looping yarns, pierce yarn with hook, pull yarn through, spiral/wrap yarn about in barber shop pole style, pierce through again and fix securely. Cluck your way to glory.

Stranded knitting, or two-fisted knitting: My method is quite inelegant, but gets me there. I work the yarn for purl sts with my right hand for more control, and the yarn for knit sts is in my left hand, and aim for an evenly relaxed tension. No need to white-knuckle your way through your cowl, and you will want some supple drape when done. Stranded corrugated ribbing has little of the squeezing grip that ordinary single yarn knit and purl ribs have, anyway. The contrast of silky knit columns side-by-side with Indian corn-like purl stitches is the tactile beauty of corrugated rib. Warning: While knitting, running your hand over the relief texture is a big time waster, let alone the sheer delight of colours.

Inspira is all about inspiration, where subtle or intense colour-plays can evoke a place, or even memories.

Some ideas: Murano glass-like tropical fish slipping among coral reefs....beach glass blues, browns and greens amidst pinky shells studding wet sands....deep cinnabar reds and pale celadon greens in a Chinese museum exhibit....that patchwork amber glow of passenger train windows against an urban evening landscape....or a rusting and graffiti-tagged freight train tracing through rural wheat fields....the gumdrop swirl of kindergartners sweeping over a playground at recess....Ayers-Uluru Rock, which shifts through more phases in one day than the moon holds in a month....the ginger rose bloom in Baby Sister's cheek on her first snowy day, snowflakes cupped within a dark curl of lashes....Grandpapa's sun weathered hand balancing Nana's iridescent tea cup on denim-clad knee....Where earth's curve of celestial blue meets the blackness of space, and starry sweep of infinity beyond....anything, really.

There must be eight million stories in the naked city. Get your groove on. Show and tell Ravelry world yours.

Teeny-weeny legalese: Inspira Cowl Copyright 2011 by celerystalk©, which includes the actual gal behind the name, everything written, photographs, the whole kip & kaboodle....born, bred, and for distribution through Ravelry™ world..... for personal use.....but if you need to make one to sell, and so stay alive another day, go for it. But if you are a business, go have your own talent to work up patterns. And pay them a decent wage, for crying out loud. Make your folks proud. Peace, love, out.

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Inspira Cowl ....Nitty Gritty Notes....continued...

IMPORTANT! Lessons you wisely should take from TaskForce Inspira (test knit event) :

• The most valuable lesson by far is to make your Inspira all your own. Modify it to your heart's content, & you will be better for it, Gentle Knitter. Age old knitting traditions are simply of knitted samples passed around. Inspira is at it's core simply a staggered corrugated rib. All these pages of of details are merely what I did for the four cowls you see photographed. So, why did I slave over this pattern(s) for the past six months?? Head :: Desk

• Gauge measurements in directions were taken in the middle of each cowl after blocking, & all yardage & meters are approximate.

• To avoid knitting in a spiral, knit one or two rows before joining, since it will be easier to see if the sts have twisted. Use the tail from casting on to close the gap. You could impress yourself by joining in a circle from the get-go, but increasingly I choose to expend my energies of high concentration elsewhere.

• To knit your cowl a little quicker, consider knitting all the sts for the 1st and last rounds of each rib. For example, instead of “K2 MC, P2 CC,” simply “K2 MC, K2 CC.”

• Arthritis issues: Consider knitting in stranded stockinette while maintaining the staggered patterning, & using purl sts for the two plain knit rounds. The welt-like effect of purl rounds separating smooth knit sts may be an interesting textural contrast. If purling is difficult, consider 'wrapping & turning' your work to continue working knit sts from the 'wrong' side at this point. This way, the 'right' side will appear purled for those two rounds.

• Decreasing, & by how much: pop on your cowl, see where it lays. Do you want to decrease now? Has it cleared your shoulders? Pinch the excess, count the the sts you will need to get rid of. Just remember to keep your final number of sts divisible by four (2X2 rib) if knitting Mesa rock, & by six (3X3 rib) if knitting Steampunk. You may also choose to knit a 2nd decrease round to funnel the opening closer to the neck.

ALERT! Read prior to casting on and don't come crying to me: From the TaskForce Inspira test-knit, many who used my CO numbers found their cowls turning out much too small. 'Tea cozy size,' one questionable person noted. My upper shoulders measure about 37 inches/94cm. Both Mesa

rock and Steampunk I made to drape over one shoulder, and wear as a light hug over both. And since I'm losing my grip – hey, watch yourself! – my tension is relaxed. If your measurements differ, or you desire a cowl that spans both shoulders, you will need to cast on more sts. How you determine that number is a matter of grave consulting with a calculator, your measurements, and perhaps not a little alchemy. Some actually knit a swatch. Seems a tad bit organized to me. Just remember to keep your final number of sts divisible by four if knitting Mesa rock, & by six if knitting Steampunk. Of course, should you decide to cast on more sts, you may also need more yarn. How much more? You are asking me a math question? ….walks away chuckling....

And now, a few pages from my field notebook.....be inspired to design your own unique pattern play.....

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