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TextileArtist.org Jeanette Appleton workbook October 2021

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TextileArtist.org

Jeanette Appleton workbookOctober 2021

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Texture with felting and stitch“In this workshop you’ll transform hand stitched transparent cloth by adding wool tops and then wet felting the layers.

You will explore running stitch using different thread types and thicknesses, sizes and stitch directions to create regular and random marks. By limiting the first sample to a simple colour scheme, such as black and white, the emphasis will be on the contrasts you create. The felting technique will distort the stitch, creating new and exciting textures and surfaces.

I encourage you to collect your emerging design ideas throughout the process. Documenting your research in this way will allow you to consider links with your own personal references and inspirations, for use in future projects.

By the end of the workshop you’ll have created a stitched and felted sample, and you will be ready to explore and experiment further with this technique.”

Jeanette Appleton

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

What you'll need• Open weave, transparent fabric pieces (25cm x 15cm / 10" x 6")

Choose two colours. These can be natural or synthetic fabrics, such as silk chiffon or polyester. Black and white materials are used in the demonstration, but you could choose another monochrome scheme using a different colour.

• Six threads/yarns Three black and three white (or dark and light) threads/yarns in various weights

• White sewing thread

• Fine Merino wool tops (total 25g / 1oz), in black, white, grey and two other colours

• Sheets of A4 / US Letter paper in white, grey and black

• A bar of pure olive oil soap Oliva brand is good as it is not too soapy

• Bubble wrap with small bubbles (45cm x 70cm / 18" x 28")

• Nylon open weave fabric Such as a plain nylon net curtain (35cm x 25cm / 14" x 10")

• A container or bowl, large enough to fit your hand in

• A soft plastic bag, in a size slightly larger than your hand

• Needles to fit your threads

• Pins

• Scissors

• Absorbent cloth, for soaking up any water spillage

• An old towel

• Camera/smartphone

• Fashion and/or interiors magazine images

• Access to a printer (optional)

• Two L-shapes cut from A4 / US Letter paper, to make a frame viewer (optional)

• Barrier cream or protective gloves for sensitive skin (optional)

• A3 pocket display book to use as a design folder (optional)

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

The creative stitch exercise

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step one

Choose two pieces of transparent cloth, one dark and one light (25cm x 15cm / 10" x 6"). Overlap the light fabric over the dark fabric by around 2cm / ¾", to make a square, then pin and tack with large running stitches using white sewing cotton.

Step two

Choose three black and three white (or dark and light) threads, in different thicknesses, and lay them over the fabric. Note how they change appearance and depth on the different backgrounds. Change the order of the threads around several times, to consider how they look. Photograph each arrangement and choose your favourite.

Step three

Stitch a line running stitch with your six threads, across the dark and light fabrics. Vary the length of the stitches.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step four

Create random marks on the top half of the fabric, stitching in different directions. Vary the length of stitches and the choice of thread. The felting process will reduce the spaces between these stitches. This will contort the fabric and make interesting marks and textures.

Step five

Place the piece onto white, then grey, and finally black paper. See which areas of stitch stand out on each of the three backgrounds. Take photographs to record your research.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step six

With the stitched fabric placed on one of your sheets of paper, you will now start to layer the wool tops. The scales on various wool fibres differ in size and grip. You will use fine Merino wool as it is easy to lay thinly, interlocks quickly and produces a firm, thin fabric after felting.

Pull away a quarter section of each of your wool, as this will help you to create thin layers. Lay them under the stitched fabric and photograph the result. Switch them around and photograph each arrangement, to record your research. This is a quick and easy way to experiment with colour choices. Choose your preferred wool colours and decide how you want to arrange them.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step seven

Fold the bubble wrap in half (bubbles inside) then place the smooth side down on top of the stitched fabric and wool. Flip everything over and remove the paper base.

Step eight

Practise handling the wool first. Lay a length of fibre over the palm of one hand, with the end of the wool protruding about 12cm / 5". Spread and flatten the wool out a little, then bring your thumb over the top, holding the fibre gently but evenly across your index finger.

Step nine

Grasp the wool with the other hand, with your fingers resting against the base of your thumb so that you can pull out a flat, even section of wool.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step ten

Gently ease thin layers from the wool tops and place them into position onto the back of the stitched fabric. The layers should lie in the same direction with some overlapping. Keep the layers thin, so that you can still see the stitches below.

Step eleven

Make another layer of wool in the opposite direction, across the first layer.

Step twelve

Gather the nylon net, plastic bag, soap and a bowl of warm water. Place the nylon net mesh over one half of the sample. Put your hand in the plastic bag and scrunch it up a little. Grab some water and sprinkle it over the net, until the wool becomes wet.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step thirteen

Skim the olive oil soap bar over the top, then lightly stroke the surface until a white film appears. In time you will become familiar with the right amount of soap to use; you don't want too much or too little!

Step fourteen

Carefully pull the net away from the wool and flip it over onto the dry half of the fabric. Now use one hand to ease the soapy cloth inwards. Use your other hand (covered by the bag) to gently massage the wrinkles together. Keep both hands flat and do not press down hard.

Step fifteen

Continue to ease the cloth inwards until it becomes slightly smaller than the other half. Repeat the process to soak, soap and shrink the second half of the fabric.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step sixteen

Fold the bubble wrap over the top of the wool, flip the fabric over and then open out the bubble wrap again. You can continue to massage the whole fabric a little longer, if necessary. At this pre-felt stage you can let the fabric dry and work more stitches into it.

Roll up the end of the bubble wrap and continue rolling until the sample is held inside. Then roll the tube back and forth, gently and without pressure. You may need to add more warm water and soap to keep the fabric moist.

After the first rolling, unroll the bubble wrap. Lift the sample and turn it 90°. Roll up the cloth in the bubble wrap again. Roll the tube back and forth once more.

Repeat this twice more, so that you have rolled the fabric from every edge. This stage should take about five minutes.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step seventeen

Once the wool is attached to the fabric you can help speed up the shrinking process by changing the water. Gently squeeze out the cold water. Dip the fabric into a bowl of warm water (but don't squeeze the water out this time) and lay it back onto the bubble wrap.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step eighteen

Add a little more soap and stroke across the fabric. Roll it up in the bubble wrap again, then roll the tube back and forth, a little more vigorously this time.

Keep on rolling and turning the cloth, until you are happy with the shape of the stitch and the texture of the cloth.

Wash the cloth gently in warm water to remove the soap and rinse in cold water. Pat dry with an absorbent cloth and leave the piece to dry flat, on a towel. Avoid hanging it up as this can distort the cloth.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Step nineteen

Decide what you would like to do with the finished sample. You could work more stitching into the sample to develop it into a finished piece. Or you could try folding and manipulating the sample, or placing it (or photographs of the sample) under fashion or interior design magazine cutouts, or use a frame viewer made out of L-shaped cut paper to help you come up with ideas.

On the computer you could manipulate your research photographs, and make up repeat patterns for future use.

Think about how you might use the felted fabric directly, or how the sample pattern might be used in other projects. These ideas can be mounted onto paper and placed in a design folder, along with any reference images with similar colours and textures, for future reference.

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Possible approaches

Wrap and fold the sample to generate ideas for using your textured fabric, such as wrist cuffs or a book cover.

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Play with printed images, placing the sample under cutouts of garments, bags or hats.

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Notes

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

TextileArtist.org Stitch Club

Notes

Jeanette Appleton workbook

Jeanette Appleton workbook

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