Rebecca Milner, Ray Bartlett, Andrew Bender, Craig McLachlan, Kate Morgan,

Simon Richmond, Tom Spurling, Phillip Tang, Benedict Walker, Wendy Yanagihara

Japan

#̂

#_Kyotop297

Tokyop70

Sapporo & Hokkaidō

p571

Shikokup641Kyūshū

p695

Okinawa & theSouthwest Islands

p768

Kansaip358

The Japan Alps &Central Honshū

p212

Mt Fuji &Around Tokyop156

NorthernHonshū

(Tōhoku)p501

Hiroshima &Western Honshū

p434

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Japan . . . . . . 6Japan’s Top 25 . . . . . . . . 10Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 24First Time Japan . . . . . . . 26What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 28If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 29Month by Month . . . . . . . 32Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Skiing in Japan . . . . . . . . 48Travel with Children . . . . 52Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 54Japan on a Budget . . . . . 59Hiking in Japan . . . . . . . . 61Visiting an Onsen . . . . . . 63Regions at a Glance . . . . 66

TOKYO . . . . . . . . . . . . 70History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Festivals & Events . . . . . . 115Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 135Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 142

Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

MT FUJI & AROUND TOKYO . . . .156Fuji Five Lakes . . . . . . . 158Mt Fuji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159Fuji-Yoshida . . . . . . . . . . . 163Kawaguchi-ko . . . . . . . . . 164Sai-ko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Shōji-ko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Motosu-ko . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Yamanaka-ko . . . . . . . . . . 167Hakone . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Hakone-Yumoto . . . . . . . . 170Miyanoshita & Kowakidani . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Chōkoku-no-Mori & Gōra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Sōun-zan & Sengokuhara . . . . . . . . . . 173Hakone-machi & Moto-Hakone . . . . . . . . . . 174Izu Peninsula . . . . . . . . .175Atami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Itō . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Shimoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Shira-hama . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Kisami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Matsuzaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Dōgashima . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

Shuzen-ji Onsen . . . . . . . 184Izu Islands . . . . . . . . . . 185Ō-shima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Nii-jima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Shikine-jima . . . . . . . . . . . 186Hachijō-jima . . . . . . . . . . . 186Kamakura . . . . . . . . . . . 187Yokohama . . . . . . . . . . . 192Chichibu & Oku-Tama . . 198Takao-san . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Oku-Tama . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Nikkō & Around . . . . . . . 200Nikkō . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Chūzen-ji Onsen . . . . . . .206Yumoto Onsen . . . . . . . . . 207Ogasawara Archipelago . . . . . . . . . 208Chichi-jima . . . . . . . . . . . .209Haha-jima . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210

THE JAPAN ALPS & CENTRAL HONSHŪ . .212Nagoya & Around . . . . . 213Nagoya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Inuyama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Gifu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Gujō-Hachiman . . . . . . . .230Kiso Valley Nakasendō . . . . . . . . . . . . 230Magome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Tsumago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Kiso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Narai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Hida Region . . . . . . . . . . 234Takayama . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Hida-Furukawa . . . . . . . . . 241Okuhida Onsen-gō . . . . . . 242Shirakawa-gō & Gokayama . . . . . . . . . . . 245Kanazawa & the Hokuriku Coast . . . . 248

ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP

CO

WA

RD

LION

/SH

UT

TE

RSTO

CK

©

OSAKA-JŌ P364

TU

PU

NG

ATO/S

HU

TT

ER

STOC

K ©

NISHIKI MARKET, KYOTO P304

Contents

Kanazawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249Noto Peninsula . . . . . . . . 258Kaga Onsen . . . . . . . . . . . 262Fukui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Toyama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265The Northern Japan Alps . . . . . . . . . . . 267Matsumoto . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Azumino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273Shirahone Onsen . . . . . . . 275Kamikōchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275Hakuba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Nagano & Around . . . . . 280Nagano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280Togakushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Obuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286Nozawa Onsen . . . . . . . . . 287Shiga Kōgen . . . . . . . . . . . 288Bessho Onsen . . . . . . . . . 289Karuizawa . . . . . . . . . . . . .290Gunma Prefecture . . . . 292Takasaki & Around . . . . . . 292Minakami Onsen-kyo . . . . 293Kusatsu Onsen . . . . . . . . . 295

KYOTO . . . . . . . . . . . 297History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . .330Festivals & Events . . . . . . 332Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337Drinking & Nightlife . . . . .348Entertainment . . . . . . . . . .350

Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352

KANSAI . . . . . . . . . . 358Osaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Kōbe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382Himeji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389Nara & Around . . . . . . . 391

Nara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391Temples Southwest of Nara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402Yamato Plain . . . . . . . . . .405Yoshino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407Kii Peninsula . . . . . . . . . 408Kōya-san . . . . . . . . . . . . . .409Along the Kumano Kodō . . . . . . . . . . 415Shirahama . . . . . . . . . . . .420Ise-Shima . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Shiga Prefecture . . . . . . 426Ōtsu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .426Hikone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .426Nagahama . . . . . . . . . . . .428Northern Kansai . . . . . . 429Miyama-chō . . . . . . . . . . .429Kinosaki Onsen . . . . . . . . . 431Tango Peninsula . . . . . . . . 433

HIROSHIMA & WESTERN HONSHŪ . . . . . . . . . . .434Hiroshima & Around . . 435Hiroshima . . . . . . . . . . . . . 435Miyajima . . . . . . . . . . . . . .445Iwakuni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .449Onomichi . . . . . . . . . . . . .449Shimanami Kaidō Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452Tomo-no-ura . . . . . . . . . . 453Okayama & Around . . . 454Okayama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Naoshima . . . . . . . . . . . . .460Teshima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .465Shōdo-shima . . . . . . . . . .466Kurashiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .469Kasaoka Islands . . . . . . . 472Matsue & the San-in Coast . . . . . . 473Matsue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474Sakai Minato . . . . . . . . . . . 478Oki Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . 478

Daisen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481Tottori . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .482San-in Coast National Park . . . . . . . . . .483Izumo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .484Iwami Ginzan . . . . . . . . . .485Yamaguchi & Around . . 486Yamaguchi . . . . . . . . . . . . .486Tsuwano . . . . . . . . . . . . . .490Hagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 493Shimonoseki . . . . . . . . . . 497

NORTHERN HONSHŪ (TŌHOKU) . . . . . . . . 501Miyagi Prefecture . . . . . 505Sendai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .506Matsushima . . . . . . . . . . . 510Ishinomaki . . . . . . . . . . . . 511Naruko Onsen . . . . . . . . . 513Iwate Prefecture . . . . . . 514Morioka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514Hiraizumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 517Tōno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 519Sanriku Kaigan . . . . . . . 522Minami-Sanriku & Kesennuma . . . . . . . . . . . 523Rikuzen-takata & Ōfunato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 523Kamaishi & Ōtsuchi . . . . 525Aomori Prefecture . . . . 525Aomori . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526Hirosaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529Towada-ko . . . . . . . . . . . . 533Hakkōda-san . . . . . . . . . . . 534Shimokita Peninsula . . . . .535Akita Prefecture . . . . . . 537Akita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537Kakunodate . . . . . . . . . . .540Tazawa-ko . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542Nyūtō Onsen . . . . . . . . . .544Yamagata Prefecture . . 545Yamagata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545

Yamadera . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547Zaō Onsen . . . . . . . . . . . .548Ginzan Onsen . . . . . . . . . .550Tsuruoka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .550Dewa Sanzan . . . . . . . . . . . 551Sakata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553Niigata Prefecture . . . . 554Niigata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 554Sado-ga-shima . . . . . . . . 557Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen . . . .563Naeba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .564Myōkō Kōgen . . . . . . . . . . 565Fukushima Prefecture . 566Aizu-Wakamatsu . . . . . . .566Bandai Plateau . . . . . . . .568Kitakata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570

SAPPORO & HOKKAIDŌ . . . . . . . .571Sapporo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 577Central Hokkaidō . . . . . 588Niseko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589Otaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 593Shikotsu-Tōya National Park . . . . . . . . . . 595Tomakomai . . . . . . . . . . . . 601Northern Hokkaidō . . . 602Asahikawa . . . . . . . . . . . .602Biei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .604Furano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .605Daisetsuzan National Park . . . . . . . . . .609Wakkanai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 613Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park . . . . . . . . . . 617Eastern Hokkaidō . . . . . 621Abashiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 621Shari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 622Shiretoko National Park . . . . . . . . . . 623Akan National Park . . . . . .627Kushiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .634

Kushiro-shitsugen National Park . . . . . . . . . . 635Tokachi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636Hakodate . . . . . . . . . . . 636

SHIKOKU . . . . . . . . . 641Tokushima & The Anan Coast . . . . . . 644Tokushima . . . . . . . . . . . . 645Naruto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .649The Anan Coast . . . . . . . . 653Muroto-misaki . . . . . . . . . 655Iya Valley & Around . . . 656Iya Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 656Nishi Iya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 658Higashi Iya . . . . . . . . . . . . . 659Ōboke & Koboke . . . . . . .660Tsurugi-san . . . . . . . . . . . 661Kōchi & Around . . . . . . . 662Kōchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .662Shimanto City . . . . . . . . . 667Ashizuri-misaki . . . . . . . .668Ehime Prefecture . . . . 669Matsuyama . . . . . . . . . . . .669Ishizuchi-san . . . . . . . . . . . 679Uchiko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .680Ōzu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 681Yawatahama . . . . . . . . . . .682

Uwajima . . . . . . . . . . . . . .683Takamatsu & Kagawa Prefecture . . . . . . . . . . . 685Takamatsu . . . . . . . . . . . . 685Yashima . . . . . . . . . . . . . .689Marugame . . . . . . . . . . . .690Zentsuji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 691Kotohira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 691Kanonji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .694

KYŪSHŪ . . . . . . . . . . 695Fukuoka & Around . . . . 698Fukuoka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .698Dazaifu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 707Karatsu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 708Imari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 710Hirado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 711Arita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 713Nagasaki & Around . . . 714Nagasaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 714Shimbara Peninsula . . . . . 727Central Kyūshū . . . . . . . 730Kumamoto . . . . . . . . . . . . 730Aso-san & Around . . . . . . 734Kurokawa Onsen . . . . . . . 737Yufuin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 738Beppu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 739Usuki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 746

ON THE ROAD

TAK

AS

HI YA

SU

I/500

PX ©

NATIONAL ART CENTER TOKYO P84

Contents

Takachiho . . . . . . . . . . . . . 747Southern Kyūshū . . . . . 749Kagoshima . . . . . . . . . . . . 750Sakurajima . . . . . . . . . . . . 757Satsuma Peninsula . . . . . 758Kirishima-yaku National Park . . . . . . . . . . 760Miyazaki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 762Aoshima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 766Nichinan-kaigan & Cape Toi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 767Obi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 767

OKINAWA & THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . 768Ōsumi Islands . . . . . . . .771Yakushima . . . . . . . . . . . . 771Tanegashima . . . . . . . . . . 776Amami Islands . . . . . . . 778Amami-Ōshima . . . . . . . . . 778Tokunoshima . . . . . . . . . . 781Okinoerabu-jima . . . . . . . 782Yoron-tō . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 784Okinawa-hontō . . . . . . . 785Naha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 786Southern Okinawa-hontō . . . . . . . . 792Motobu Peninsula . . . . . . 793

Northern Okinawa-hontō . . . . . . . . . 794Kerama Islands . . . . . . 794Aka-jima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 794Zamami-jima . . . . . . . . . . 796Kume-jima . . . . . . . . . . . 797Miyako Islands . . . . . . . 798Miyako-jima . . . . . . . . . . . 798Irabu-jima & Shimoji-jima . . . . . . . . . 801Yaeyama Islands . . . . . . 802Ishigaki-jima . . . . . . . . . . .802Iriomote-jima . . . . . . . . . .808Taketomi-jima . . . . . . . . . . 811Hateruma-jima . . . . . . . . . 812Yonaguni-jima . . . . . . . . . 813

Japan Today . . . . . . . . . . .816

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .818

The People of Japan . . 835

Japanese Cuisine . . . . . 840

Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 854

Architecture . . . . . . . . . 863

Traditional Japanese Accommodation . . . . . . 866

Sport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 870

Living Art of the Geisha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 872Environment . . . . . . . . . 874

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 880

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . .891

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 904

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 914

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 926

SPECIAL FEATURES

UNDERSTAND

O ff t h e Bea te n Tra c k . . . . . 4 6

Ski ing in Japan . . . 4 8

Hik ing in Japan . . . . 61

Vis i t ing an Onsen . 63

3D Tokyo Nat ional Museum I l lustrat ion . . . . . . 98

3D Tōdai - j i I l lustrat ion . . . . . 398

CO

WA

RD

LION

/SH

UTTER

STOC

K ©

PATTILAB

ELLE/GETTY IM

AG

ES ©

B-H

IDE TH

E SC

ENE/S

HU

TTERSTO

CK

©

PIU

S99/G

ETTY IMA

GES

©

CO

WA

RD

LION

/SH

UTTER

STOC

K ©

Kokuzo BosatsuSeated to the left of the Daibutsu is Kokuzo Bosatsu, the bodhisattva of memory and wisdom, to whom students pray for help in their studies and the faithful pray for help on the path to enlightenment.

Buddhas Around DainichiSixteen smaller Buddhas are arranged in a halo

around the Daibutsu’s head, each of which symbolises one of the Daibutsu’s diff erent

manifestations. They are graduated in size to appear the same size when viewed

from the ground.

KomokutenStanding to the left of the Daibutsu is Komokuten (Lord of Limitless Vision), who serves as a guardian of the Buddha. He stands upon a demon (jaki), which symbolises ignorance, and wields a brush and scroll, which symbolises wisdom.

The Daibutsu (Great Buddha)Known in Sanskrit as 'Vairocana' and in Japanese as the 'Daibutsu', this is the Cosmic Buddha that gives rise to all other Buddhas, according to Kegon doctrine. The Buddha’s hands send the messages 'fear not' and 'welcome'.

TamontenTo the right of the

Daibutsu stands Tamonten (Lord Who

Hears All), another of the Buddha’s

guardians. He holds a pagoda, which is said to represent a divine

storehouse of wisdom.

Hole in PillarBehind the Daibutsu you will nd a pillar with a

50cm hole through its base (the size of one of the Daibutsu’s nostrils). It’s said that if you can crawl

through this, you are assured of enlightenment.

Nyoirin KannonSeated to the right of the Daibutsu is Nyoirin Kannon, one of the esoteric forms of Kannon Bodhisattva. This is one of the bodhisattva that preside over the six diff erent realms of karmic rebirth.

FACT FILE

THE DAIBUTSUHeight 14.98mWeight 500 tonnes

Nostril width 50cm

THE DAIBUTSU-DEN HALLHeight 48.74m Length 57mNumber of roof tiles 112,589

Tōdai-jiVISIT THE GREAT BUDDHAThe Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Nara’s Tōdai-ji is one of the most arresting sights in Japan. The awe-inspiring physical presence of the vast image is striking. It’s one of the largest bronze Buddha images in the world and it’s contained in an equally huge building, the Daibutsu-den Hall, which is among the largest wooden buildings on earth.

Tōdai-ji was built by order of Emperor Shōmu during the Nara period (710–784) and the complex was finally completed in 798, after the capital had been moved from Nara to Kyoto. Most historians agree the temple was built to consolidate the country and serve as its spiritual focus. Legend has it that over two million labourers worked on the temple, but this is probably apocryphal. What’s certain is that its construction brought the country to the brink of bankruptcy.

The original Daibutsu was cast in bronze in eight castings over a period of three years. It has been recast several times over the centuries. The original Daibutsu was covered in gold leaf and one can only imagine its impact on Japanese visitors during the eighth century AD.

The temple belongs to the Kegon school of Buddhism, one of the six schools of Buddhism popular in Japan during the Nara period. Kegon Buddhism, which comes from the Chinese Huayan Buddhist sect, is based on the Flower Garland Sutra. This sutra expresses the idea of worlds within worlds, all manifested by the Cosmic Buddha (Vairocana or Dainichi Nyorai). The Great Buddha and the figures that surround him in the Daibutsu-den Hall are the perfect physical symbol of this cosmological map.

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Plan Your Trip

S E A O FJ A PA N

Miyajima R#•

#_

#•

#•

#•

Hiroshima

Osaka

Kyoto

TOKYO

Hakone

Nara

Himeji

Kōya-san

Honshū

Shikoku

#•

#•

#•

É

É

É

É

ÉÉÉ

É

SE

AN

PAV

ON

E/SH

UT

TE

RSTO

CK

©

Itineraries

Tokyo, Kyoto & Hiroshima

This is a classic route for first-time visitors. It hits many star attractions, can be done year-round and takes advantage of the excellent value and seamless travel offered by a Japan Rail Pass.

Start with a couple of days in Tokyo, getting your bearings and a taste of big-city Japan – the skyscrapers, the bustle and all that neon. Then hop on the bullet train for Kyoto.

You’ll need two or three days (mini-mum) to sample the best of Kyoto’s temples and gardens. From here you can make side trips to Nara, home of the Daibutsu (Great

Buddha), and Osaka, famous for its vivid nightscape and street food.

Take a one-night detour to the mystical mountain monastery Kōya-san (where you can spend the night in a Buddhist temple). Then head west on to Himeji to see Japan’s best castle, Himeji-jō.

Next stop is Hiroshima, for the mov-ing Peace Memorial Park. Further down the coast is Miyajima, with its photogenic floating shrine. You can spend the night in a ryokan (traditional inn) here before taking the train back to Tokyo. On your way back there, drop into the mountain hot-spring resort of Hakone to get your onsen fix.

2 WEEKS

36 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Atomic Bomb Dome, Hiroshima (p435)

Shibuya Crossing, Tokyo (p87)

LUC

IAN

O M

OR

TU

LA/S

HU

TT

ER

STOC

K ©

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

37

R

Honshū

Mt Fuji(3776m)

Shirakawa-gō

Nara

Kamikōchi

GokayamaShin-Hotaka

Onsen

Matsumoto

Nagano Obuse

Takayama

Kanazawa

Kyoto

Northern Japan Alps

#•#•

#•

#• #•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

38

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

This route highlights Japan’s traditional culture and its natural beauty. Spend several days exploring Kyoto and Kanazawa, known for their culinary and artistic traditions, and a week driving through the Japan Alps, the setting for charming rural hamlets and hidden onsen (hot spring) villages.

Spend the first few days in Kyoto, exploring the city’s famous temples, shrines and gardens. Be sure to budget time for the less-famous ones too, which are more peaceful, and for a day trip to Nara. Kyoto and Nara have excellent national museums with classical art and artefacts. In the evenings, stroll Kyoto’s historic geisha district.

Next take the train to Kanazawa, a city that, in its heyday, rivalled Kyoto in its contributions to the arts. As befitting its location near the Sea of Japan, Kanazawa is known for great seafood, but also for its lasting artisan tradition and its stroll-ing garden, Kenroku-en. Kyoto and Kanazawa are excellent places to shop for traditional crafts.

Get a car and head for the mountains of Hida. The villages of Shirakawa-gō and Gokayama are famed for farmhouses with dramatically an-gled thatched roofs. In the World Heritage–listed Ainokura village, you can spend the night in one.

Continue to Takayama, a charming old post town with well-preserved wooden buildings (now housing galleries, sake breweries and craft shops) and narrow streets. For beautiful alpine scenery and hiking, head to Kamikōchi; then, for rustic onsen (hot springs), to Shin-Hotaka Onsen.

You’ll eat well in the mountains: local speci-alities include soba (buckwheat noodles), beef, hoba-miso (sweet miso paste grilled on a mag-nolia leaf) and foraged mushrooms and shoots.

From here drive east to the town of Matsu-moto, home to one of Japan’s best original cas-tles, Matsumoto-jō. Near Nagano, pretty Obuse, another well-preserved mountain town, is home to the Hokusai Museum. End your trip in Naga-no with a visit to the impressive Zenkō-ji temple.

Nagano has a shinkansen (bullet train) sta-tion so you can catch a train onward, or drive straight on to Narita Airport.

As snow can close mountain passes in winter, this route is best in spring, summer or autumn.

2 WEEKS Kyoto, Kanazawa &

the Japan Alps

TOO

YK

RU

B/S

HU

TT

ER

STOC

K ©

AR

TCH

AW

IN P

RE

MP

RA

SO

NG

/GE

TT

Y IMA

GES

©

Top: Kasuga Taisha, Nara (p395) Bottom: Shirakawa-gō (p245)

39PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

Japan often feels like a destination that requires a long trip and lots of advanced planning, but it needn’t be. Between Tokyo and the towns in its orbit, on the coast and in the mountains, you can cover a lot of varied terrain, taking in both contemporary and traditional Japan.

Basing yourself in Tokyo has several advantages: you won’t have to haul bags around while you travel and you can make plans on the fly, accord-ing to weather and mood. Though if you do back-to-back day trips, the JR Tokyo Wide Pass, which can be purchased in Japan, can save money.

For good transit connections, dining and en-tertainment options, Shinjuku is the best base, though other neighbourhoods, like Asakusa and Ueno on the east side, have cheaper digs.

In a few days, you can take in many of Tokyo’s highlights, such as the bright lights and 24-hour buzz of Shinjuku and Shibuya; Harajuku’s shrine, Meiji-jingū; the contemporary architec-ture along Omote-sandō; the seafood at Tsukiji Outer Market; and the charming old town of Yanesen. You can also just take it easy, hanging out in one of the city’s fun, bohemian haunts, like Shimo-Kitazawa.

Summer is the season for climbing Mt Fuji, which is a two-hour train ride west of Tokyo. You can do it as one long overnight climb – to hit the summit for sunrise – or stay a night in a moun-tain hut. Year-round you can visit the Fuji Five Lake region, to see Mt Fuji reflected in the lakes.

For shrines and temples head north to Nikkō, home of the grand World Heritage–listed Tōshō-gū, the 17th-century shrine for shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. There are hiking and onsen opportunities up this way, too. An hour south of Tokyo are more subdued Zen temples, founded centuries earlier, in the one-time me-dieval capital Kamakura. Kamakura, on the Pacific coast, has evolved into a hip beach com-munity with cafes and surf shops.

Round off your trip with a visit to Hakone, a hot-spring resort town in the mountains southwest of the city, about two hours away by train. There are spa complexes here for day trippers, or you can splurge on a night in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn).

1 WEEK

Tokyo, Mt Fuji & Around

Top: Mt Fuji Bottom: View from Tokyo City View (p81)

SIR

O46/S

HU

TT

ER

STOC

K ©

MAT

T MU

NR

O/LO

NE

LY PLA

NE

T ©

40

#

#

•

_

RMt Fuji(3776m)

TOKYO

Kamakura

Nikkō

R

#_

É

ÉÉ

É

É

É

#•

#•

#•

#_

É

É

Hakone

41PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

RUSSIA#•

DaisetsuzanNational Park

ShiretokoNational Park

TokachidakeOnsen

AkanNationalPark

Shikotsu-TōyaNational Park

#÷

#÷

#÷

Asahikawa

Sapporo#÷Kushiro-shitsugen

National Park

#÷

#•

#•

#•

Hakodate

#•

#•

Kushiro

Daisetsu KōgenSansō

É

É

É

É

É

É

Hokkaidō

#•

#•#•

É

FukiageRoten-no-yu

AsahidakeOnsen Sōunkyō

Onsen

É

42

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaidō, has much of what you want out of Japan: steaming onsen and rugged, volcanic peaks, city lights and foodie cred, as well as something you wouldn’t expect – the opportunity for an epic road trip. Snow falls early in Hokkaidō, so this is a summer trip.

Start in Hakodate, Hokkaidō’s southernmost port, which has a charming 19th-century city centre. You can arrive via the new shinkansen (bullet train) line that opened in 2016, connect-ing Hakodate with Tokyo in four hours.

After a fresh seafood breakfast at Hakodate’s fish market, drive to Shikotsu-Toya National Park, home to caldera lakes and an active volcano. Budget time to soak in the springs of Noboribetsu Onsen inside the park.

Next stop: Sapporo, Hokkaidō’s capital city (and Japan’s fifth largest). Get your city fix here, among the neon lights of the dining and drinking district Susukino. Then head to Hokkaidō’s sec-ond city, Asahikawa; like Sapporo, Asahikawa is a famous ramen town. It’s also the gateway for Daisetsuzan National Park, Japan’s largest na-tional park and a mostly untouched wilderness of dense forest, high in the mountains.

There are three villages on the perimeter of the park: Tokachidake Onsen, Asahidake Onsen and Sōunkyō Onsen. All have hot springs, lodging and good day treks. Don’t miss Fukiage Roten-no-yu, near Tokachidake Onsen, one of Japan’s best in-the-wild onsen. It’s also worth spending a night at Daisetsu Kōgen Sansō, a truly remote mountain lodge.

Continue east to the World Heritage–listed Shiretoko National Park, land that Hokkaidō’s indigenous people, the Ainu, referred to as ‘the end of the world’. There are hikes here, through primeval woods, and more hidden hot springs.

Akan National Park is most famous for its startlingly clear and blue caldera lakes, Kussharo-ko and Mashu-ko. This is also the best place on Hokkaidō to learn about the Ainu; there are some (touristy) Ainu villages here, such as Akan Kotan.

Finally wend down to Kushiro-shitsugen National Park, home to the endangered Japa-nese red-crowned crane. From Kushiro it’s easy to get to New Chitose Airport, south of Sapporo.

2 WEEKS The Wilds of Hokkaidō

MIK

E LYV

ER

S/G

ET

TY IM

AG

ES ©

PIC

HIT TO

NG

MA

/SH

UT

TE

RSTO

CK

©

Top: Akan National Park (p627) Bottom: Tanchō-zuru (red-crested white crane), Kushiro-

shitsugen National Park (p635)

43PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

Considered off the beaten track, Kyūshū really delivers: it’s got a fantastic city in Fukuoka, riveting history in Nagasaki, excellent onsen and smoking volcanoes. Heading south, the Satsuma Peninsula dissolves into a chain of semi-tropical islands, including Okinawa, stretching into the Pacific. If you want to see something totally different, this trip is for you.

Fly into Fukuoka from Tokyo and spend a day exploring this hip city, known for its outdoor food stalls and rich, pork-bone ramen. You can tour Kyūshū easily by train – there’s a rail pass just for the island – but it helps to have a car. It’ll come in handy for working your way down the coast via the pottery town of Karatsu to Hirado, a small island that punches above its size history-wise. After visiting Hirado, Arita is another pottery town worth a stop on your way to Nagasaki.

History, of course, weighs heavily on Nagasaki, the second Japanese city destroyed by an atomic bomb. But Nagasaki also has a colourful cosmo-politan legacy that lives on today in its food and architecture. From Nagasaki cut into the heart-land to Kurokawa Onsen, one of Japan’s best onsen towns, where you can stay in a ryokan.

Next head south, past the active volcano Aso-san and the castle town Kumamoto (still recovering from a 2016 earthquake) to Kagoshima. The city at the tip of the Shima-bara Peninsula is known for tonkatsu (breaded and fried pork cutlets), shōchū (strong distilled liquor) and Sakura-jima – the smoking volcano that lords over the skyline. South of Kagoshima are the hot sand baths of Ibusuki.

Return the car and catch a speedboat from Kagoshima to Yakushima, an island with pri-meval, moss-strewn forests and seaside onsen. Spend the night (or longer for serious hiking).

Back in Kagoshima, take the slow ferry for an epic overnight ride to Okinawa-hontō, the larg-est of the Okinawa Islands. Spend a day or two exploring the capital city Naha, the former seat of the Ryūkyū Empire, sipping fresh juice from the market and enjoying island delicacies. From Naha, it’s a one-hour jet-foil ride to the idyllic, palm-fringed Kerama Islands – where you can get your beach fix. Then catch a flight back to Tokyo from Naha.

2 WEEKS Kyūshū & Okinawa

Top: Shuri-jō, Naha (p789) Bottom: Yakushima (p771)

TOR

AS

UN

/SH

UT

TE

RSTO

CK

©G

AR

Y SA

ISA

NG

KA

GO

MO

N/S

HU

TT

ER

STOC

K ©

44

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

R

AmamiIslands

OkinawaIslands

ŌsumiIslands PA C I F I C

O C E A N

E A S TC H I N A

S E A

Kerama Islands

Ibusuki

Yakushima

Fukuoka

#•

#•

Kagoshima

#•Kumamoto

Aso-sanKurokawa Onsen

Nagasaki

#•#•#•

#•Hirado

Arita

Karatsu

Naha

Kyūshū

SOUTHKOREA

#•#•

É

É

É

ÉÉ

É

É

#f

#•

#•

#•

R

45

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

#

# #

#

#

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

#

#

##

•

•

••

•

_

•

•

••

_

•

•

•

•

• •

•

•

•

•

•

••

•

•

•

•

•

••

•

•

•

•

•

•

••

R

Kyūshū

Shikoku

Yakushima

Tsu-shima

SOUTHKOREA

NORTHKOREA

CHINA

Aso-san(1592m)

Jixi

Tōnghuà

Hagi Nara

Himeji

Izumo

Hamada

Usuki

Mǔdānjiāng

Jílín

Dāndōng

Yánjí

Sìpíng

Liáoyán

Hēilóngjiāng

Jìngpò Hú

Shimonoseki

Oita

Kumamoto

Fukui

Kōbe

Hiroshima

Nagasaki

Fukuoka

KyotoOsaka

Wakayama

Miyazaki

Matsuyama Kōchi

Tokushima

Chángchūn

Hā'ěrbīn

Vladivostok

Okayama

Matsue Tottori

Kagoshima

PYONGYANG

SEOUL

OKIISLANDS

IYAVALLEY

KUMANOKODŌ

#•

Off the Beaten Track: Japan

##

# #

#

##

#

#

#

••

• •

•

••

•

•

•

CHINA

Okinawa-hontō

TanegashimaYakushima

KyūshūAmakusa

Islands

TokaraIslands

YaeyamaIslands

MiyakoIslands

AmamiIslands

P A C I F I CO C E A N

East ChinaSea

Amami

Hirara

Ishigaki

Nago

Níngbō

Okinawa City

Pǔtuóshān

Shànghăi

Kagoshima

NahaTaipei

#

#

•

• YONAGUNI-JIMA

#•

IRIOMOTE-JIMA

#•

See Southwest Islands Inset

mk0040selim0020

A few hours and a world away from the big cities of Kansai, Iya Valley has been called the ‘Shangri La of Japan’. Stay in a restored thatched-roof farmhouse and get a taste of traditional village life. (p656)

IYA VALLEY

On really clear days you can see Taiwan from Yonaguni-jima, Japan’s westernmost inhabited island. Divers come here to swim with hammerhead sharks and explore the mysterious ‘Atlantis of the Pacific’ ruins. (p813)

YONAGUNI-JIMA

Once a place of exile, these cliff-lined islands offer some spectacular scenery and a real feeling of getting away from it all. Very few foreigners ever make it here. (p478)

OKI ISLANDSTrek through the mountains of southern Kansai to reach three of the country’s most sacred Shintō shrines on this ancient pilgrimage route. (p415)

KUMANO KODŌ

Fringed by healthy coral reefs and covered with dense tropical jungle, the island of Iriomote-jima is one of Japan’s wildest places. (p808)

IRIOMOTE-JIMA#_

TAIWAN

Southwest Islands

46

PLAN YO

UR TRIP OFF T

HE B

EA

TE

N T

RA

CK

46

#

#

#

#

#

##

# #

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

#

#

•

•

•

•

•

••

• •

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

_

•

•

•

•

•

••

•

•

•

•

•

•

R

##

#

#

#

÷÷

÷

÷

÷

Honshū

Hokkaidō

RUSSIA

RUSSIA

Okushiri-tō

Mt Fuji(3776m)

Kakunodate

Biei

Hachinohe

Nikkō

Obihiro

ShinjōOshu

Takikawa

Abashiri

Ise

Sakata

Kushiro

Tsuruoka

Otaru

Hakodate

Gifu

Kanazawa

Tsu Shizuoka

Toyama

MaebashiMito

Yokohama

Utsunomiya

Kōfu

Akita

Aomori

Fukushima

Morioka

Yamagata

Nagoya

Nagano

Sapporo

Sendai

ChibaUrawa

Niigata

TOKYO

Towada-Hachimantai

National Park

Shikotsu-tōyaNational Park

AkanNationalPark

DaisetsuzanNational

Park

NotoPeninsula

P A C I F I CO C E A N

Sea ofJapan

Sea ofOkhotsk

SADO-GA-SHIMA

SHIRETOKONATIONAL PARK

RISHIRI-TŌ &REBUN-TŌ

#•DEWA SANZAN

mk0050selim0520#e

D

Ogasawara Archipelago(500km)

Almost as far north as you can go in Japan, these two islands burst into riotous blooms of wildflowers each year from May to August. They’re a true delight for hikers and photographers. (p618 & p617)

RISHIRI-TŌ & REBUN-TŌ

A wild outpost of rugged mountains and coastline, each August this island rocks to the sound of the famous Kodō Drummers during the fabulous Earth Celebration. (p557)

SADO-GA-SHIMA

With no sealed roads and a healthy population of brown bears, Shiretoko earns the title of Japan’s last true wilderness. The rewards for tackling the tough trails here are long soaks in hot springs. (p623)

SHIRETOKONATIONAL PARK

This is as far off the beaten track as you can get in Japan. A full 25½-hour ferry ride from Tokyo, these semitropical islands – complete with whales, sharks and dolphins – feel like a different world. (p208)

OGASAWARAARCHIPELAGO

Complete the three-mountain hike that makes up this trail through thewilds of Yamagata, a favourite pilgrimage for the yamabushi (mountain priests). (p551)

DEWA SANZAN

47PLAN

YOUR TRIP O

FF TH

E BE

AT

EN

TR

AC

K47

926

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MTR/MRT station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kate Morgan Kyoto Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destina-tions such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a

freelance editor.

Simon RichmondTokyo Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered including Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s

penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching - follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches.

Tom Spurling Northern Honshū Tom Spurling is an Australian travel writer and high school teacher who has worked on 13 travel guides for Lonely Planet. His titles include Australia, Turkey, Central America, China, India and South Africa. On his second Japan guide he covered the mythical northeast where the wild things roam but the shinkansen Green Car still runs. He is looking forward to returning in winter to attempt to ski where he once trod.

Phillip TangHiroshima & Around, Okayama & Around Phillip Tang grew up on typically Australian pho and fish’n’chips. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cul-tures launched him into travel and writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. More pics and words: philliptang.co.uk. Phillip has made his home in Sydney, Melbourne, London and Mexico City. His travels include most countries in Europe, much of Asia

and Latin America, as well as the greatest hits of North America.

Benedict WalkerThe Japan Alps & Central Honshū, Matsue & Around, Tottori & Around, Yamaguchi & Around Born in Newcastle, Australia, notions of the beach are core to Ben’s idea of self, having travelled hundreds of thousands of kilometres from the sandy shores of home. Ben was given his first Lonely Planet guide (Japan) when he was 12. Two decades later, he’d write chapters for the same publication: a dream come true. A communications graduate and travel agent by trade, Ben whittled away his

twenties gallivanting around the globe. He speaks fluent Japanese and has contributed to LP’s Japan guide, twice. Ben thinks the best thing about travel isn’t as much about where you go as who you meet: living vicariously through the stories of kind strangers enriches one’s own experience. Ben has also written and directed a play, toured Australia managing the travel logistics for top-billing music festivals and is experimenting with a return to his original craft of photography and film-making.

Wendy YanagiharaAround Tokyo, Okinawa & the Southwest Islands Wendy serendipitously landed her dream job of writing for Lonely Planet in 2003, and has since spent the intervening years contributing to titles including Southeast Asia on a Shoestring, Vietnam, Japan, Mexico, Costa Rica, Indonesia, and Grand Canyon National Park. In the name of research, she has hiked remote valleys of West Papua, explored the tiny nooks and alleys of Tokyo sprawl, trekked on a Patagonian glacier, and rafted Colo-

rado River whitewater. Wendy has also written for BBC Travel, the Guardian, Lonely Planet Magazine, lonelyplanet.com, and intermittently freelances as a graphic designer, illustrator, and visual artist. Instagram: @wendyyanagihara

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415315th edition – Aug 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 035 2© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSRebecca MilnerCurator, Tokyo, Hokkaido, Osaka California born. Longtime Tokyo resident (14 years and counting!). Co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tokyo, Japan, Korea and Chi-na. Freelance writer covering travel, food & culture. Published in the Guardian, the Independent, the Sunday Times Travel Magazine, the Japan Times and more. After spending the better part of my twenties working to travel – doing odd jobs in Tokyo to make money so I could spend months at a time backpacking around Asia – I was

fortunate enough to turn the tables in 2010, joining the Lonely Planet team of freelance authors.

Ray BartlettKyushu Ray Bartlett has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or contact him for questions or motivational

speaking opportunities via www.kaisora.com, his website. Ray Bartlett currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico.

Andrew Bender Kansai Andrew is a native New Englander who worked in the financial industry in Tokyo and the film industry in Los Angeles before setting out to pursue his dream of travelling and writing about it. He has since authored more than three dozen LP titles as varied as Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Norway, Amsterdam, Germany and his cur-rent home of Southern California. He also writes the Seat 1A travel site for Forbes.com, and contributes to the Los Angeles Times and airline magazines. Catch his

work at www.wheres-andy-now.com.

Craig McLachlanHiking in Japan, Skiing in Japan, Shikoku Craig has covered destinations all over the globe for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in Queenstown, New Zealand, for half the year, he runs an outdoor activities company and a sake brewery, then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Describing himself as a ‘freelance anything’, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i and is also a Japanese interpreter, pilot, photographer, hiking guide, tour

leader, karate instructor and budding novelist. Check out www.craigmclachlan.com.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’