lommekjent

BYENS BESTE • LOKALTIPS • HELT ENKELTREYKJAVĺK

Alexis Averbuck

Oversatt av Lotte Holmboe

00-title-contents-pk-rey1_NO ny.indd 1 09.04.15 10:21

Denne guiden inneholder

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Grillmarkaðurinn (s. 32)

Walk the Plank Små krabbeburgere nede i Den gamle havnen. (s. 45)

Hamborgara Búllan Reykjavíks mest popu­lære burgere. (s. 47)

Beste finere matDill En av Reykjavíks fi nes­te restauranter. (s. 57)

Þrír Frakkar Islandske toppretter i en koselig spisesal. (s. 58)

Grillmarkaðurinn Trendy stjernested for biffer og grillet fisk. (s. 32)

Fiskfélagið Fersk sjømat smaksatt med uvanlige kryddere. (s. 32)

Fiskmarkaðurinn Utsøkte islandske smaks­menyer. (s. 34)

Kolabrautin Islandsk møter italiensk på toppen av Harpa. (s. 59)

Beste restauranter utenfor ReykjavíkNarfeyrarstofa i Stykkis­hólmur drives av en pris­belønt kokk. (s. 113)

Plássið Pålitelig deilig sjømat og burgere i Stykkishólmur. (s. 114)

Lindin i Laugarvatn har fantas tiske ingredienser høstet i naturen. (s. 86)

Slippurinn på Heimaey har livlig stemning og havneutsikt. (s. 98)

Silfra nær Þingvellir har sakte mat av lokale in gre ­dien ser og bar. (s. 77)

Gamla Fjósið i et gammelt fjøs øst for Skógar byr på oksekjøtt fra gården. (s. 97)

Beste lokaleTiú Droppar «Ti dråper» er en fin kombinasjon av

kafé, bar og restaurant. (s. 60)

Ostabúðin «Oste butik­ken» er bare åpen til lunsj og serverer fangs­ten eieren har fått samme dag. (s. 59)

Grái Kötturinn Liten, vanskelig å finne, men flott til frokost og brunsj. (s. 58)

Við Fjöruborðið Sjømat­sted i havkanten i Stokks­eyri – lekker hummer­bisque. (s. 92)

Vitabar Fristende burgere i en bar i Reykjavík. (s. 62)

Beste veg-økoGló Fersk, økologisk og full av velsmakende urter og kryddere. (s. 122)

Grænn Kostur Økologiske og vegan­spesialiteter. (s. 59)

Islendingene elsker varme pølser og har grense­sprengende retter som røkt sauehode og fermen­tert hai. Men fokuset retter seg klarest mot Islands lekre ingredienser rett fra gården, sjømat fangste ne fra de iskalde farvannene, nyskapende meieri pro­duk ter (ikke gå glipp av skyr) og de smarte histo­riske konserveringsteknikkene dagens feirede nye nordiske kokker har brakt frem i lyset igjen.

MatkulturReykjavík er ikke bare Islands politiske hovedstad, men også den kulinariske. Tilbudet strekker seg fra et pulserende kafé-bar-miljø der avslappet kule reykjavikere holder til mens de nipper til fin kaffe og gumler sandwicher, kaker og vafler, til nye nordiske topp restau ranter der islandsk kokekunst blir tatt til det mest forfinede ekstreme.

Islandske spesialiteterSer du en kø i Reykjavík, ender den sannsynligvis ved en pýlsur-bod (pølsebod). Fiskisúpa (fiske-suppe) lages etter familieoppskrifter, og kjötsúpa (kjøttsuppe) lages vanligvis med grønnsaker og lammekjøtt. Ingenting overgår islandsk lamme kjøtt fra frittgående sauer som lever av gress og urter uten kunstige tilsetninger i fjellene og dalene.

Tidligere beholdt islendingene bare kjeven og tungen av þorskur (torsken) – en delikatesse – og eksporterte resten, men i dag er det som regel torskefilet på menyen, i tillegg til ýsa (hyse, kolje), bleikja (ishavsrøye) og den nesten kjøttaktige skötuselur (breiflabb). Om sommeren bør du prøve silungur (ferskvannsørret) og villtur lax (villaks). Du finner også vilt som hval, hákarl (gravet hai), reinsdyr og lundi (lundefugl) på menyen.

Beste mat på fartenBæjarins Beztu Reykavíks legen dariske pølsebod. (s. 32)

Lobster Hut Få med deg litt hummer ... i en sandwich eller i en salat. (s. 35)

Soup Car Lammestuing og vegansuppe ved Hallgrímskirkja. (s. 60)

matBeste

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topprestaurantene om sommeren.

fSelv om somme­ren slutter ofte ser­ve ringen rundt kl. 21.

fHusk at det er fred­ningsbestemmelser for hval, lundefugl og hai (se rammetekst, s. 45).

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Beste mat 125124 Beste mat

Reykjavík 871 +/-2: Landnåms-utstillingen (s. 26)I denne utstillingen, som er bygd opp rundt de eldste ruinene i Reykja­vík, møter den moderne tidsalderen vikingenes langhus. Her er det fullt av morsomme, fascine­rende og hypermoderne utstillinger.

Hvalsafari (s. 40)Hvalsafaribåtene legger ut fra Den gamle havnen i Reykjavík. De er på jakt et­ter de vakre kjempene som dykker, hopper og spruter vann utenfor kysten av Island. Se etter våge hval, knøl hval, finnhval med flere, pluss små lunde fugler.

Nasjonalmuseet (s. 24)På Islands nasjonalmuseum finner du landets mest verdifulle gjenstander. De utgjør en sti av ledetråder fra livet i landnåmstiden og videre fremover. Se på funnene og lær mer om islendingenes tøffe sjel.

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Harpa konsertsal (s. 55)

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Reykjavíks kunst og design 123

1 Reykjavík kunstmuseum – KjarvalsstaðirKjarvalsstaðir (s. 55) ligger ved parken Mikla­tún og er oppkalt etter Jóhannes Kjarval (1885–1972), en av Islands mest populære klassiske kunst nere. Det fredelige museet viser hans svært stem ningsfulle land­skaper og verker av mange viktige islandske 1900­tallsmalere.

2 Einar Jónsson MuseumEinar Jónsson (1874–1954) var en av Islands fremste skulptører, og hadde en dramatisk, allegorisk stil. Enar Jónsson.museet (s. 56) fyller atelieret som han designet, og de øverste etasjene har utsikt over byen. Skulp­turhagen (s. 56) bak museet er gratis.

3 HallgrímskirkjaGuðjón Samúelsson (1887–1950), Islands kanskje mest berømte 1900­tallsarkitekt, skap­te en markant islandsk estetikk. Reykjavíks Hallgrímskirkja (s. 50) er nok hans ypperste verk. Stikk rundt hjørnet til det

klassiske svømme­bassenget Sundhöllin fra 1937 (s. 57) for å se et annet eksempel.

4 DesignbutikkerIslandske kunstnere og designere skaper mye som kom bi nerer det vakre med det prak­tiske. Laugavegur er full av butikker som selger designerting. Kiosk i øst (s. 63) er et mote­fellesskap. KronKron (s. 63) har toppklær, og deres håndlagde sko er helt eksepsjonelle. Leynibuðin (s. 64) selger hippe, lokalt pro­duserte klær. Knøttlille Skúma Skot i vest (s. 64) er smekkfull av unike, håndlagde kunst­ og klesprodukter.

5 KunstGå ned mot sjøkanten for å se den populære skulpturen Sólfar, og stopp på veien i Kling & Bang (s. 56), et av byens beste gallerier for nye kunstnere. Skulp­turen Sólfar (s. 57) ble skapt av Jón Gunnar Árnason, og det skjelett­aktige drømmeskipet ligger mektig ved vannet og med snødekte fjell i det fjerne.

6 Harpa konsertsalReykjavíks strålende konsertsal Harpa (s. 55) med fasade av skinnende sekskanter, åpnet i 2011. Det ble tegnet av det danske firmaet Henning Larsen

Architects, det islandske firmaet Batteríið Archi­tects og den dansk­islandske kunstneren Olafur Eliasson. Husk å ta en tur inn for å se de buede glasspane lene og den flotte ut sikten over havnen.

2 RutenIslendingene har sans for pikant og spennende kunst og design. Byen er full av lokale attraksjoner som modernistisk arkitektur, kul samtidskunst og butikker fulle av funksjonelle, men kreative kunst­håndverksprodukter. Denne vandringen fører deg gjennom et utvalg av temaene, alt sammen i en kompakt og populær del av Reykjavík sentrum.

Start Reykjavík kunstmuseum – Kjarvalsstaðir

Slutt Harpa konsertsal

Lengde 3 kilometer; to timer

5 Ta en pauseStopp for et deilig økologisk måltid på Gló (s. 58), der menyen endres daglig og suppleres av en bred bar med kunstferdige og velsmakende salater. En fargerik samling lokale innbyggere strømmer til for de popu lære lunsjene, og det er rikelig med barer og kaffebarer like ved.

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Beste vandringer

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¨Parke rings begrens­ninger i sentrum (120 kr per time; bare mynter eller betalingskort med PIN­kode). Gratis fra kl. 18 til 10 mandag til lørdag og hele dagen søndag.

Regionalbuss og rundturery Best for ... Å se landskapet uten å kjøre selv, eller hvis du har lite tid.

¨Én- og flerdags turer (mange henter på ho tel­lene) kjører fra Reykjavík (se s. 128), eller bruk Strætó og busstur selska­pene som er oppført her, til transport. Gratiskartet Public Transport in Iceland viser alle rutene.

¨Selskapene tilbyr buss­kort, men noen er dyre, og du blir bundet til det selskapet. Sjekk på for­hånd, leiebil kan noen ganger være billigere.

¨Fra omtrent midten i mai til midt i september kjører vanlige rutebusser til de fleste stedene på Ring veien (vei 1), til de popu lære fotturområ­dene i sørvest, til større byer på halvøyene Rey­kja nes og Snæfellsnes, til Vestfirðir og til Austur-land. Resten av året

varierer rutene fra daglige til ikke­eksisterende.

¨ I små byer stopper bussene vanligvis ved den største bensin­stasjonen.

¨Strætó (%540 2700; www.straeto.is) driver Rey­kjavíks lang distanse­busser fra Mjódd buss­terminal (%557 7854), åtte kilometer sørøst for sentrum. Den betjenes av lokal bussene 3, 4, 11, 12, 17, 21, 24 og 28. Strætó har også bybusser og en mobil app. For lang­distanse busser bruk bare kontan ter, betalingskort med PIN­kode eller (mange) buss billetter.

¨Reykjavík Excursions (%580 5400; www.re.is) bruker BSÍ bussterminal (%562 1011; www.bsi.is; Vatnsmýrarvegur 10; W) sør for sentrum. BSÍ har billett skranke, turist­

brosjyrer, opp bevarings­bokser, bagasje opp beva­ring (500 kr per kolli per dag), Budget bilutleie og en kafeteria med Wi­Fi. Terminalen betjenes av Reykjavík­bussene 1, 3, 6, 14, 15 og 19. Reykjavík Excursions tilbyr for­hånds bestilt henting på hotellet for å frakte deg til terminalen.

¨Sterna (%551 1166; www.sterna.is; W) har avganger fra Harpa konsertsal (billetter kan kjøpes der). Bussene kjører overalt, unntatt til Vest­Island og Vestfirðir.

¨Trex (%587 6000; www.trex.is; W) kjører fra hoved­turistkontoret eller Harpa konsertsal og Reykjavík campingplass. Har busser til Þórsmörk og Land­manna laugar i sør.

konsertsal for 1300 kr. De kjører fra (og har en skranke i) bygnin gen med bilutleiebyrået Sixt, rundt 500 meter fra ter mi na len. Billett kan kjøpes av sjåføren eller på nettet.

Airport Express (%540 1313; www.airportexpress.is; W) Kjøres av Gray Line Tours mellom Keflavík internasjonale flyplass og Lækjartorg i Reykjavík sentrum (1900 kr), eller dør til dør­transport til og fra hotellet (2400 kr). Se nettsiden for rute­ tider.

Reykjavík innen­lands­flyplass

¨Fra Reykjavík innen­landsflyplass (Reykjavíkur flugvöllur; www.reykjavik airport.is; Innanlandsflug) er det én kilo meter å gå til byen. Det er drosje­holdeplass her, og Strætó­ (%540 2700; www.straeto.is) buss 15 stopper nær Air Iceland-terminalen. Buss 19 stopper nær Eagle Air-terminalen. Begge kjører til sentrum og Hlemmur busstasjon.

Komme seg rundtLokalbussy Best for ... Turer i nærområdet når du ikke har lyst til å gå.

¨Strætó har bussruter rundt i Reykjavík og for­stedene med hoved­stasjoner i Hlemmur, i østenden av Lauga­ vegur og på Lækjar­ torg.

¨Rutetider på nettet og som mobilapp. Rutebok selges på Hlemmur buss­tasjon (0,50 kr). Gratis­kart som Welcome to Reykjavík City Map har også rutekart.

¨Mange busser kjører rundt Tjörnin og betjener sentrum, nasjonalmuseet og BSÍ bussterminal før de fortsetter.

¨Prisen er 350 kr. Kjøp billett på stasjonene eller betal på bussen (ingen vekslepenger). Over gangs­billetter (fra sjåfø ren) er gyldige i 75 minutter.

¨Én­ og tre­dagskort (900/2200 kr) selges på bussholde plasser, turist­konto rer, mange hoteller og større svømme­bassenger.

¨Bussene kjører kl. 07 til kl. 23 eller 24 daglig (fra kl. 10 på søndag) med 20 eller 30 minutters inter­valler. Begrenset natt­buss­service til kl. 02 fredag og lørdag.

¨Reykjavík City Card (s. 142) gjelder også som Strætó­busskort.

Bily Best for ... Dags­ og overnattingsturer ut på landet.

¨Fullstendig unødvendig hvis du bor i Reykjavík sentrum.

¨Veiene er gode i de mest besøkte om­ rådene.

¨Forhåndsbestill for å få best mulig avtaler. Hvis dere er to eller flere, kan det bli billigere enn buss.

¨Sjekk Carpooling in Iceland (www.samferda.is)

¨Mange bensinstasjo­ ner utenfor byene er ubetjent, så du trenger et beta lings kort med PIN­kode.

¨Bil med firehjulstrekk er bare nødvendig for turer i høylandet (F­veier, der det er forbudt å kjøre med tohjulsdrevne leiebiler).

Tips for å spare pengerTaxFree­shopping Alle med permanent adresse utenfor Island kan kreve opptil 15 prosent rabatt på kjøp når de bruker over 4000 kr på samme ut salgssted. Se etter butikker med «tax­free shopping»-skilt og få et skjema i kassen. Alle detaljer på www.taxfreeworldwide.com/Iceland.

Alkohol Planer om å drikke mye i Reykjavík? Kjøp alkohol i taxfreebutikken i an komst hallen på fly plassen til lavere priser enn i byen.

Komme seg rundt 141140 Praktiske tips

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Laugavegur og Skólavörðustígur (s. 48)Laugavegur er Reykjavíks fremste handlegate og er kjerneområde for kule kafeer, barer og restau- ranter. Kunstneriske Skólavörðustígur fører til berømte Hallgrímskirkja.

HøydepunkterEHallgrímskirkja

Gamle Reykjavík(s. 22)Her er Reykjavíks eld- gamle hjerte, med ruiner av et langhus fra viking- tiden, interessant arki- tektur og førsteklasses museer.

HøydepunkterENasjonalmuseetReykjavík 871 +/-2:Landnåmsutstillingen

Den gamle havnen(s. 38)Tidligere var dette en aktiv havn, men nå byr det fine, livlige området på en artig klynge museer og spisesteder. Hvalsafaribåtene legger ut herfra.

HøydepunkterEHvalsafari

Den gylne sirkelen(s. 74)

HøydepunkterEÞingvellirGeysirGullfoss

Vest-Island(s. 102)

HøydepunkterELandnåmssenteret

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Verdt en avstikkerHøydepunkterE

Den blå lagunenJökulsárlón

Sørkysten (s. 88)

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Laugavegur og Skólavörðustígur (s. 48)Laugavegur er Reykjavíks fremste handlegate og er kjerneområde for kule kafeer, barer og restau- ranter. Kunstneriske Skólavörðustígur fører til berømte Hallgrímskirkja.

HøydepunkterEHallgrímskirkja

Gamle Reykjavík(s. 22)Her er Reykjavíks eld- gamle hjerte, med ruiner av et langhus fra viking- tiden, interessant arki- tektur og førsteklasses museer.

HøydepunkterENasjonalmuseetReykjavík 871 +/-2:Landnåmsutstillingen

Den gamle havnen(s. 38)Tidligere var dette en aktiv havn, men nå byr det fine, livlige området på en artig klynge museer og spisesteder. Hvalsafaribåtene legger ut herfra.

HøydepunkterEHvalsafari

Den gylne sirkelen(s. 74)

HøydepunkterEÞingvellirGeysirGullfoss

Vest-Island(s. 102)

HøydepunkterELandnåmssenteret

Snæfellsjökull nasjonalpark

Verdt en avstikkerHøydepunkterE

Den blå lagunenJökulsárlón

Sørkysten (s. 88)

Reykjaví k og rundtByens områder

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Tips fra de som kjenner området best

Laugardalur (s. 66)

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Djammið natteliv (s. 52)

X Livlige barer X Festing med lokal­

befolkningenNoen velger å reise til Reykjavík utelukkende på grunn av nattelivet. Du er kanskje ikke klar over det, men i denne lille byen vet de virkelig hvor dan man fester. Det lokale uttrykket er djammið – en forfyllet bar-til-bar-vandring gjennom gatene i Reykjavík sentrum.

Laugardalur (s. 66)

XGeotermiske bad X Parker og hager

En av de mest populære fri tidsaktivitetene på

Island er et langt bad og en trivelig prat i en av de geo termiske kildene. Et av de største bassengene ligger i Laugardalur, en dal med varme kilder. Like ved ligger et popu-lært spa, en botanisk hage, en travel barnepark og utmerkede museer for lokal kunst.

Viðey (s. 68) X Avskjermet øy X Havutsikt

Lille Viðey ligger rett utenfor kysten ved Reykjavík og var et av de første stedene på Island som ble bosatt. I dag er dette et ubebodd, drømme aktig tilflukts-sted. Her finner du unike kunst installasjoner og et

nettverk av fine gang- og sykkelstier som går på kryss og tvers – øya er et av reykjavikernes fore-trukne utfluktsmål.

Reykjanes (s. 72) X Forblåste landsbyer X Vulkanlandskap

Halvøya Reykjanes er mest kjent for den berømte Blå lagunen, men lokal befolkningen er mer opptatt av alt det andre: fiskerlandsbyer og ensomme fyr, dramatiske klipper og sjøfuglkolo-nier. Her møter du reykja-vikere som er ute på tur eller kjører ATV-er blant mineralsjøer, vulkaner, strender og røffe lava-felter.

Reykjavík er liten, lett å få tak på og veldig sjarmerende. I tillegg er beliggenheten ved sjøen helt nydelig. Likevel er det mest magiske ved byen menneskene. Reykjavikerne er livlige, kreative, lite selvbevisste folk som lar sine liv være preget av inspirasjon og innsikt. De kan virkelig å feste, og slår seg løs med avslappet stil.

Andre fine steder å oppleve området som en reykjaviker:

Tiú Droppar (s. 60)

Ostabúðin (s. 59)

Bæjarins Beztu (s. 32)

Lucky Records og 12 Tónar (s. 63)

Grái Kötturinn (s. 58)

Valdi’s (s. 44)

Vestmannaeyjar (s. 98)

Stokkseyri og Eyrarbakki (s. 92)

Rideturer på sørkysten (s. 93)

Våre yndlingsstier (s. 116)

Reykjaví k og rundtLokalkjent

Lokalkjent 1312

For mer informasjon, se Praktiske tips (s. 137)

ValutaIslandsk króna (kr)

SpråkIslandsk, mange snakker engelsk og/eller

skandinavisk

VisumMedlem av Schengen, så nordmenn

trenger verken pass eller visum for turist­opphold.

PengerBetalingskort dominerer, selv i svært

avsides liggende strøk (ha med kort med PIN­kode). Minibanker i alle byer.

MobiltelefonGod mobildekning. Besøkende med

GSM­telefoner kan bruke roaming. Kjøp et islandsk SIM­kort hvis du skal bli en stund.

TidssoneIsland ligger én time etter Norge.

Stikkontakter og adapterePå Island har man like stikkontakter som i Norge og strømmen holder 220V, akkurat

som her.

TipsSiden servicegebyrer og moms (merverdi­

avgift) alltid er inkludert i prisen, er det ikke nødvendig å tipse på Island. .

Ankomst Reykjavík

Islands internasjonale hovedflyplass, Keflaví­kur flugvöllur (KEF), ligger 48 kilometer vest for Reykjavík, på Reykjanes. Det er hyppige og praktiske flybusser til Reykjavík sentrum.

A Fra Keflavík internasjonale flyplassBuss Flybus (%580 5400; www.re.is; W), Airport Express (%540 1313; www.airport­express.is; W) og billigselskapet K­Express (%823 0099; www.kexpress.is), som har holdeplass et stykke unna terminalen, har busser som går mellom flyplassen og Rey­kjavík (50 minutter). Flybus tilbyr hente­ og bringe tjeneste til mange overnattingssteder (1950 kr til Reykjavík, 2500 kr til hotellet), og går også innom Den blå lagunen.

A Fra flyplassen

Keflavíkur flugvöllur Flyplassen har mini­banker, valutavekslingsmuligheter, bilutleie­firmaer, en informasjonsdisk og kafeer. Taxfreebutikkene i ankomstområdet selger alkohol til langt lavere priser enn på resten av Island. I tillegg er det en taxfreeskranke der du kan få tilbake penger på taxfreekjøp du har gjort på Island. Storkiosken 10­11 selger SIM­kort, og større turoperatører som Reykjavík Excursions og Grey Line har egne informasjonsdisker.

Komme seg rundtDu trenger ikke bil i Reykjavík sentrum, siden det er så lett å utforske byen til fots eller per buss. Skal du derimot reise rundt utenfor byen, bør du leie bil eller campingbil.

J LokalbussStrætó (%540 2700; www.straeto.is) driver et nettverk av regelmessige busser i Reykjavík og forstedene det er enkelt å benytte seg av. Sel skapet har også langdistansebusser (s. 141). Du finner rutetabeller på nett. Dessuten har de en smarttelefonapp og trykte rutetabeller som selges på Hlemmur busstas­jon (0,50 kr). Mange gratis kart, deriblant Welcome to Reykjavík City Map, har også kart over byens bussruter.

En billett koster 350 kr og kan kjøpes om bord (ingen vekslepenger). Bussene går fra kl. 07 til kl. 23 eller 24 hver dag (fra kl. 10 søndag). Fredag og lørdag kveld er det noen få nattbusser som går til kl. 02.

K BilBiler er det mest utbredte transportmiddelet utenfor Reykjavík. Det er dyrt å leie bil her, men du får stor frihet. Om sommeren kom­mer du stort sett frem overalt med to hjuls­trekk (NB! Ikke på høyfjellet og på F­veier). Om sommeren er det firehjulstrukne busser til høyfjellet. Ellers trenger du firehjuls trekk eller må bli med på en rundtur. Du kan leie biler på flyplassen, BSÍ bussterminal og noen steder i byen.

J RegionbusserIsland har et ganske bra bussnettverk mel lom de større turistdestinasjonene. Bussene går fra mid ten av mai til midten av september. Resten av året er det færre (eller ingen) avganger.

A InnenriksflygningerHar du dårlig tid, kan du få mest mulig ut av oppholdet ditt ved å bruke innenriksfly.

DagsbudsjettMindre enn 20 000 kr

X Sovesalsseng 4000–7000 kr

X Grillbar­mat/suppe til lunsj 1200–1800 kr

X Bussbillett til Den gylne sirkel 8500 kr

Mellomklasse 20 000–35 000 kr X Dobbeltseng i gjestehus 17 000–25 000 kr

X Måltid på kafé 1800–3000 kr

X Leie av en liten bil 14 000 kr

Det beste, mer enn 35 000 kr X Finere dobbeltrom 30 000–50 000 kr

X Hovedrett på topprestaurant 4000–7000 kr

X Leie av firehjulstrekker 30 000 kr

Nyttige nettsiderVisit Iceland (www.visiticeland.com) Den offisielle turisthjemmesiden.

Visit Reykjavík (www.visitreykjavik.is) Hoved­stadens offisielle turistnettside.

Reykjavík Grapevine (www.grapevine.is) Flott engelskspråklig nettavis/hjemmeside.

Iceland Review (www.icelandreview.com) Ny­heter, aktuelle tema, underholdning og mer.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/iceland) Informasjon om reisemålet, reise­forum og mer.

Forberedelser hjemmefraTre til seks måneder før Bestill all over­natting i Reykjavík og på resten av øya. Etter spørselen er alltid større enn tilbudet.

Én måned før Bestill opplevelses­ eller bussrundturer på landet.

Én uke før Bestill bord på topp restau ranter. Forhåndsbestill buss fra fly plassen hvis du vil til Den blå lagunen rett etter landing.

Før du drar

Til Beste transportReykjavík sentrum Flybus, Airport

Express, K­Express

Den blå lagunen Flybus: Blue Lagoon

Verdt å vite

Verdt å vite 1716

rundturer, i noen butikker og til noe under holdning.

¨Kortet kan kjøpes på turist kontoret, noen reise byråer, 10–11-super-markeder, HI-vandrerjem og på noen hoteller.

¨Barn går gratis på mange museer; Children’s City Card (24/48/72 timer 1000/2000/3000 kr) dekker andre tjenester.

Reisende med bevegelses­hemninger

¨ Island kan være mer problematisk enn andre steder i Nord-Europa for reisende med bevegelses-hemninger.

¨For detaljer om til gjen-gelighet bør du ta kontakt med infosenteret for personer med beve-gelses hemninger: Þekkingar miðstöð Sjálfsbjargar (%550 0118; www.thekkingarmidstod.is).

¨God Adgang (www.godadgang.dk) kan vise steder med god til gjen-gelighet.

¨For skredd ersydde turer for bevegelses-hemmede: All Iceland Tours (www.allicelandtours.

is) og Iceland Unlimited (www.icelandunlimited.is).

¨Reykjavíks bybusser har en «knelefunksjon» så rullestoler kan løftes på; andre steder har ikke busser ramper eller løfteanordninger.

Telefony Beste tips For lengre opphold, og for de mobil-avhengige, er islands ke SIM-kort billige og prak-tiske. Du trenger en ulåst GSM 900/1800-mobil.

¨ Islands landkode: %354 (NB: Island har ingen retningsnummer).

¨Telefonkatalog på nettet: http://en.ja.is.

¨Kjøp forhåndsbetalte SIM-kort i bokhandler, matvarebutikker eller bensinstasjoner. Det islandske teleselskapet Síminn (www.siminn.is/prepaid) har den beste nettdekningen; Vodafone (www.vodafone.is/en/prepaid) ligger ikke langt etter.

¨Startpakker for samtale og data omfatter lokale SIM-kort; Síminns koster 2000 kr (og har 2000 kr i startsaldo).

¨Det blir stadig færre telefonkiosker.

Turistinformasjony Beste tips Nettsider som www.visitreykjavik.is og www.grapevine.is gir deg all informasjon du trenger for et kort opp-hold. www.visitreykjanes.is, www.south.is og www.west iceland.is dekker resten av landet.

Hovedturistkontor (Upplýsingamiðstöð Ferðamanna; kart s. 28; %590 1550; www.visit reykjavik.is; Aðalstræti 2; h8.30–19 jun–midt sep, 09–18 man–fre, til 16 lør, til 14 søn midt sep–mai) Hyggelige ansatte og stabler med gratis brosjyrer, pluss kart og salg av billetter til Strætós bybusser. Bestill innkvartering, rundturer og aktiviteter. Også et sted der du kan få ut-betalt momsrefusjon du eventuelt har krav på.

Visum ¨EU­ og Schengen­land

Det er ikke nødvendig med visum for norske statsborgere.

¨Andre land Sjekk på www.utl.is.

Flyy Best for ... Raske hopp litt lenger.

¨ Innenlandsflygninger og flygninger til Grønland og Færøyene tar av fra Reykjavík innen lands-flyplass.

¨Air Iceland (%570 3030; www.airiceland.is) har fly­ruter og sightseeing flyg­ninger. Bestill på nettet.

Viktig info A–Å

Elektrisitet

230V/50Hz

I nødstilfeller ¨For nødtjenester,

ettersøkning og rednings-tjeneste ring %112

Offentlige høytidsdagerNyttårsdag 1. januar

Påske Skjærtorsdag og lang fredag til 2. påskedag (mars/april)

Første sommerdag Første torsdag etter 18. april

Arbeidets dag 1. mai

Kristi himmelfartsdag Mai/juni

1. og 2. pinsedag Mai/juni

Nasjonaldag 17. juni

Handelens dag Første mandag i august

Julen 24. til 26. desember

Nyttårsaften 31. desember

Pengery Beste tips Betalings-kort er svært vanlige, men husk at det som regel er nødvendig å bruke PIN-kode.

¨Den islandske valutaen heter króna (flertall krónur) og er skrevet kr i denne boken, ellers ofte skrevet ISK.

¨Betalingskort brukes overalt, og du finner minibanker overalt i sentrum.

¨Tips er ikke nødvendig siden service og MVA (merverdiavgift, moms) er med i prisene.

Rabattkort ¨Reykjavík City Card

(24/48/72 timer 2900/3900/ 4900 kr) gir gratis reise på byens Strætó-busser og på fergen til Viðey i tillegg til gratis adgang til Reykja-víks kommunale svømme-bassenger og varme bad og til de fleste viktige galle­rier og mu seer. Dessuten får du rabatt på en del

230V/50Hz

Viktig info A–Å 143142 Praktiske tips

Praktiske tipsPraktiske tips og triks – bl.a. om hoteller. Komme seg rundt

som lokalbefolkningenViktig informasjonom åpningstider, etc.

Lynguide til ReykjavíkHjelp til å forstå Reykjavík – hva du bør gjøre og hvordan.

Reykjavík på sitt besteTematiske lister over høydepunktene i byen og området rundt: Lett å planlegge!

Opplev ReykjavíkDet beste du kan se og gjøre, område for område og region for region.

HøydepunkterFå mest mulig ut av besøket

Verdt å viteTips for en best mulig reise

ByvandringerOpplev byen gatelangs

LokalkjentKjennernes Reykjavík

Byens områder og regionerHva du finner hvor

Byens beste kafeer, barer, under-holdning

00-title-contents-pk-rey1_NO ny.indd 2 09.04.15 10:21

Spesielt anbefalt: Se etter disse merkene!

1 Opplevelser

5 Spise

6 Drikke

3 Underholdning

7 Shopping

Lonely Planets ReykjavíkLonely Planet Lommekjent-guider er spesiallagd for å ta deg rett til hjertet av byen.

Her finner du severdighe-tene du bare må få med deg, samt tipsene som gjør besøket ekstra minneverdig. Vi har delt byen og regionen opp i om-råder det er enkelt å manøvrere i, med et bru kervennlig kart for hvert av områdene. Lonely Planets ekspertforfatter har sjekket ut alt det beste ved byen og dens omgivelser: byvandringer, mat, natteliv og shopping, for å nevne noe. Lokalkjent-sidene hvisker deg i øret hva som er ekstra genuint og spennende å utforske.

Her får du selvsagt de nød-vendige, praktiske tipsene for at alt skal gå som smurt under-veis: reiserute-forslag, hvordan komme seg rundt, hvor mye driks du bør gi på ulike steder.

Boka er din garanti for de virkelig store opplevelsene.

GarantiDu kan stole på alle anbefalin-ger i Lonely Planets guider fordi forfatterne våre besøker hvert eneste sted vi skriver om, også i forkant av nye utgaver. Vi tar aldri imot noe gratis fra noen, og forteller deg uhildet hvordan tingene faktisk er.

Disse symbolene gir deg praktisk infor-masjon om de anbefalte stedene:

% Telefonnummerh Åpningstiderp Parkeringn Ikke-røyki Internett-tilgangW Wi-Fi-tilgangv Vegetariske retter på menyenE Engelskspråklig meny

c Familievennlig# Kjæledyrvennligg Bussf Fergem Metro/T-banej Trikkd Tog

Finn hver anbefaling kjapt – på kart for hvert område:

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For omtale, se:E Høydepunkter s. 48æ Severdigheter s. 58ú Spise s. 60û Drikke s. 63ý Underholdning s. 64þ Shopping s. 66

Louvre, Tuileries og Opéra56verkene, iskremen og de ikke-søte delikatessene lages på stedet. Noen av dem er spesialiteter som er oppfunnet her, som baba rhum (brioche dynket i rom) og puit d’amour (butterdeig fylt med krem og toppet med karamell). (www.stohrer.fr, på fransk; 51 rue Montorgueil, 2e; retter €11,50–14,90; h07.30–20.30; mÉtienne Marcel eller Sentier)

L’Escargot FRANSK €€€

21 5 Kart s. 56 , G4

En enorm gullsnegle pryder den skog grønne fasaden til dette fredede monu mentet. Du fi nner også snegler på menyen, sammen med froske lår, biff chateaubriand med béarnaise saus, kalve brissel og hummer fra Bretagne fl ambert i whisky. Her har alle fra Proust til Bogie og Bacall vært gjester. (%01 42 36 33 51; 38 rue Montorgueil, 1er; menyer €80–150; hlunsj søn–fre, middag daglig; mLes Halles)

Drikke Harry’s New York Bar BAR

22 6 Kart s. 56 , C2

Denne skjønnheten av en mahogni bar er visstnok stedet vi har å takke for Bloody Mary. Drinken ble opp funnet her i 1921, etter at tomat juice på boks var blitt populært. (Harry’s fant også opp Blue Lagoon i 1960, men det kan vi tilgi dem.) I piano baren i kjelleren spilles det jazz klassikere. (www.harrys-bar.fr; 5 rue Daunou, 2e; h12.00–02.00 søn–

tor, til 03.00 fre og lør, pianobar 22.00–02.00 tir–tor, til 03.00 fre og lør; mOpéra)

Bar Hemingway BAR

23 6 Kart s. 56 , C2

Ifølge legenden skal Hemingway, be-væpnet med en maskinpistol, ha vært med på å frigjøre denne baren med trepanel på veggene og skinntrukket bar under andre verdenskrig. I dag er Ritz’ praktstykke fullt av bilder tatt av Papa. Her får du også byens beste mar ti nier. Et sted for fi nstasen. (www.ritzparis.com; Hôtel Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme, 1er; h18.30–02.00; mConcorde eller Madeleine)

Angelina SALON DE THÉ

24 6 Kart s. 56 , C3

Tesalongen i belle époque-stil fra 1903 ligger under rue de Rivolis søyle gang. Den er så berømt for sin luksuriøse, afrikanske varme sjokolade (serve res med en skål pisket krem) at køen ofte står ut døren. (www.angelina-paris.fr, på fransk; 226 rue de Rivoli, 1er; h07.30–19.00 man–fre, fra 08.30 lør og søn; mTuileries)

Verjus VINBAR

25 6 Kart s. 56 , E3

Den nyskapende matelskerduoen bak denne nyåpnede vinbaren serverer fi ffi g barmat. Da dette ble skrevet, var planen å åpne en restau rant ved siden av. Dette er et sted å holde øye med. (www.verjusparis.com; 47 rue de Montpensier, 1er; h18.00–23.00 man–lør; mTuileries)

63Drikke

Ifølge legenden skal væpnet med en maskinpistol, ha værtmed på å frigjøre denne baren med trepanel på veggene og skinntrukketbar under andre verdenskriger Ritz’ praktstykke fullt tatttattta av Pav Pav apa. Her får du også byens beste marti nier. Et sted for (www.ritzparis.com; Hôtel Ritz PVendômeVendômeV , 1er; h18.30–02.eller Madeleine)

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Louvre, Tuileries og Opéra56

00-title-contents-pk-rey1_NO ny.indd 3 09.04.15 10:21

Lynguide tilReykjavík 7Høydepunkter .......................8Lokalkjent ............................. 12På fire dager ........................14Verdt å vite ........................... 16Kart: Reykjavíks områder ............................... 18

Opplev Reykjavík 21

Verdt en avstikker:Laugardalur ............................................66Viðey ........................................................68Den blå lagunen .....................................70Reykjanes ................................................ 72

Jökulsárlón ...........................................100

Den gamle havnen

Gamle Reykjavík

Laugavegur og Skólavörðustígur

Den gylne sirkelen

Sørkysten

Vest-Island

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22

48

74

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00-title-contents-pk-rey1_NO ny.indd 4 09.04.15 10:21

Reykjavíkpå sitt beste 119Byens beste vandringerHistoriske Reykjavík ............................120Reykjavíks kunst og design ................ 122

Reykjavíks beste Spise ...................................................... 124Kafeer og barer .................................... 126Museer, utstillinger og gallerier ...........127Rundturer .............................................. 128Praktnatur .............................................130Med barn ................................................131Shopping ............................................... 132Festivaler ............................................... 134Gratis ..................................................... 136

Praktiske tips 137Før du drar .........................138Ankomst Reykjavík ...........139Komme seg rundt ............ 140Viktig info A–Å ...................142Språk ................................. 144

00-title-contents-pk-rey1_NO ny.indd 5 09.04.15 10:21

01-quickstart-pk-rey1_NO.indd 6 09.04.15 10:24

Båthavn utenfor Harpa konsertsal (s. 55)RICHARD CUMMINGS/GETTY IMAGES ©

Velkommen til Reykjavík

I verdens nordligste hovedstad kombineres fargerike bygninger, et vilt natteliv og en lunefull sjel på glitrende vis. De snodige reykjavi­kerne har en sterk samfunnsånd som er preget av livsglede. De har skapt fascinerende museer, kul musikk og annerledes kafeer og barer. I tillegg er Reykjavík en førsteklasses base for å reise rundt og se Islands praktfulle natur: vulkaner dekket av isbreer, gnistrende fosser og strender med kullsvart sand.

Lynguide til Reykjavík

Høydepunkter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Lokalkjent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

På fire dager . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Verdt å vite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Kart: Reykjavíks områder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

7

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Reykjavík 871 +/-2: Landnåms-utstillingen (s. 26)I denne utstillingen, som er bygd opp rundt de eldste ruinene i Reykja­vík, møter den moderne tidsalderen vikingenes langhus. Her er det fullt av morsomme, fascine­rende og hypermoderne utstillinger.

Nasjonalmuseet (s. 24)På Islands nasjonalmuseum finner du landets mest verdifulle gjenstander. De utgjør en sti av ledetråder fra livet i landnåmstiden og videre fremover. Se på funnene og lær mer om islendingenes tøffe sjel.

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Reykjavík 871 +/-2: Landnåms-utstillingen (s. 26)I denne utstillingen, som er bygd opp rundt de eldste ruinene i Reykja­vík, møter den moderne tidsalderen vikingenes langhus. Her er det fullt av morsomme, fascine­rende og hypermoderne utstillinger.

Hvalsafari (s. 40)Hvalsafaribåtene legger ut fra Den gamle havnen i Reykjavík. De er på jakt et­ter de vakre kjempene som dykker, hopper og spruter vann utenfor kysten av Island. Se etter våge hval, knøl hval, finnhval med flere, pluss små lunde fugler.

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Hallgrímskirkja (s. 50)Hovedstadens landemerke av en kirke ligger øverst i sentrum og er synlig i milevis avstand. Fra toppen av det moder nis tis ke kirketårnet kan du nyte utsikten over byen, havet og snødekte fjell i det fjerne.

Gullfoss (s. 80)Det iskalde vannet tordner nedover trinnene i klippene og videre gjennom en imponerende smal fjellkløft til Islands gylne foss. Når solen skinner og får vannet til å glitre, lever Gullfoss virkelig opp til navnet sitt.

Þingvellir (s. 76)I historiske Þingvellir, der islendingene holdt landsdekkende ting i landnåms­tiden, sklir kontinentalplatene sakte fra hverandre. Fosser raser gjennom kløften og runesteiner minner om Islands tidligste historie.

Den blå lagunen (s. 70)La stresset vaskes bort i den over­jordisk vakre blå lagunen, den mest fancy utgaven av Islands varme kilder. Det knallturkisblå vannet varmes av vulkanske kilder og ligger omgitt av måne aktig lava. En unik opplevelse.

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Gullfoss Falls Gullfoss is a waterfall located in the canyon of the river hvita in southeast Iceland. Part of the Golden Circle tourist route.

Premium AccessLOURDES ORTEGA POZA/GETTY IMAGES ©

Lourdes Ortega Poza/Getty Images ©

492939581

People relaxing at Blue Lagoon spa, a geothermal spa in Icelandhot spring, spa

Premium AccessJONATHAN PERCY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Jonathan Percy/Getty Images ©

10 Høydepunkter10 Høydepunkter

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Gullfoss (s. 80)Det iskalde vannet tordner nedover trinnene i klippene og videre gjennom en imponerende smal fjellkløft til Islands gylne foss. Når solen skinner og får vannet til å glitre, lever Gullfoss virkelig opp til navnet sitt.

Den blå lagunen (s. 70)La stresset vaskes bort i den over­jordisk vakre blå lagunen, den mest fancy utgaven av Islands varme kilder. Det knallturkisblå vannet varmes av vulkanske kilder og ligger omgitt av måne aktig lava. En unik opplevelse.

Geysir (s. 78)Islands imponerende Geysir stiger opp fra et boblende og fresende geo­ter misk område som ligger midt i en over raskende frodig dal. Med jevne mellomrom skyter en av gey sirene kokende vann opp i luften med et stort svusj.

Snæfellsjökull nasjonalpark (s. 106)Snæfellsjökull nasjonalpark har ville strender, fargerike lava felter og en glitrende isbre på top pen, og er et av Islands beste turmål – enten som dags tur fra Reykjavík eller som en avslap pende langhelg.

Landnåmssenteret (s. 104)På livlige Borgarnes fant noen av hen­del sene i Islands mest dramatiske saga sted. Landnåmssenteret gjenskaper på flott vis hvordan øya ble oppdaget og bosatt. Den forteller også om Egil Skallagrimsson, kjent fra Egils Saga.

Jökulsárlón (s. 100)En glitrende prosjesjon av selvlysende blå isfjell kalver fra Breiðamerkurjökull og driver stille og rolig gjennom det skiftende lyset i den 25 kilometer lange lagunen Jökulsárlón. Når de kommer ut til havet, blir de møtt av seler.

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Djammið natteliv (s. 52)

X Livlige barer X Festing med lokal­

befolkningenNoen velger å reise til Reykjavík utelukkende på grunn av nattelivet. Du er kanskje ikke klar over det, men i denne lille byen vet de virkelig hvor dan man fester. Det lokale uttrykket er djammið – en forfyllet bar-til-bar-vandring gjennom gatene i Reykjavík sentrum.

Laugardalur (s. 66)

X Geotermiske bad X Parker og hager

En av de mest populære fri tidsaktivitetene på

Island er et langt bad og en trivelig prat i en av de geo termiske kildene. Et av de største bassengene ligger i Laugardalur, en dal med varme kilder. Like ved ligger et popu-lært spa, en botanisk hage, en travel barnepark og utmerkede museer for lokal kunst.

Viðey (s. 68) X Avskjermet øy X Havutsikt

Lille Viðey ligger rett utenfor kysten ved Reykjavík og var et av de første stedene på Island som ble bosatt. I dag er dette et ubebodd, drømme aktig tilflukts-sted. Her finner du unike kunst installasjoner og et

nettverk av fine gang- og sykkelstier som går på kryss og tvers – øya er et av reykjavikernes fore-trukne utfluktsmål.

Reykjanes (s. 72) X Forblåste landsbyer X Vulkanlandskap

Halvøya Reykjanes er mest kjent for den berømte Blå lagunen, men lokal befolkningen er mer opptatt av alt det andre: fiskerlandsbyer og ensomme fyr, dramatiske klipper og sjøfuglkolo-nier. Her møter du reykja-vikere som er ute på tur eller kjører ATV-er blant mineralsjøer, vulkaner, strender og røffe lava-felter.

Reykjavík er liten, lett å få tak på og veldig sjarmerende. I tillegg er beliggenheten ved sjøen helt nydelig. Likevel er det mest magiske ved byen menneskene. Reykjavikerne er livlige, kreative, lite selvbevisste folk som lar sine liv være preget av inspirasjon og innsikt. De kan virkelig å feste, og slår seg løs med avslappet stil.

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Laugardalur (s. 66)

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Reykjanes (s. 72) X Forblåste landsbyer X Vulkanlandskap

Halvøya Reykjanes er mest kjent for den berømte Blå lagunen, men lokal befolkningen er mer opptatt av alt det andre: fiskerlandsbyer og ensomme fyr, dramatiske klipper og sjøfuglkolo-nier. Her møter du reykja-vikere som er ute på tur eller kjører ATV-er blant mineralsjøer, vulkaner, strender og røffe lava-felter.

Reykjavík er liten, lett å få tak på og veldig sjarmerende. I tillegg er beliggenheten ved sjøen helt nydelig. Likevel er det mest magiske ved byen menneskene. Reykjavikerne er livlige, kreative, lite selvbevisste folk som lar sine liv være preget av inspirasjon og innsikt. De kan virkelig å feste, og slår seg løs med avslappet stil.

Andre fine steder å oppleve området som en reykjaviker:

Tiú Droppar (s. 60)

Ostabúðin (s. 59)

Bæjarins Beztu (s. 32)

Lucky Records og 12 Tónar (s. 63)

Grái Kötturinn (s. 58)

Valdi’s (s. 44)

Vestmannaeyjar (s. 98)

Stokkseyri og Eyrarbakki (s. 92)

Rideturer på sørkysten (s. 93)

Våre yndlingsstier (s. 116)

Reykjaví k og rundtLokalkjent

Lokalkjent 13

03-local-life-pk-rey1_NO.indd 13 09.04.15 10:25