M. Weber

M05 Weft Knitting Technologies – State of the Art I

Content

Stitch formation, needle arrangements, cams (CD)Loop drawing – needle notationNeedle selectionFlat knitting machine parametersFlat knitting pattern

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Loop drawing – needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

2

1

M. Weber

Loop drawing – needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

4

3

2

1

M. Weber

Loop drawing – needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

6

5

4

3

2

1

M. Weber

Loop drawing – needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

M. Weber

Loop drawing – needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

3

2

1

M. Weber

Loop drawing – needle notation

e. g. Half Cardigan

21

21

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Loop drawing – needle notation

e. g. Half Cardigan

21

21

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1

2

1

References: Weber: Wirkerei und Strickerei. DFV 2007

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Parameters of Flat Knitting Machines

1. Machine gauge, 2 – 20 E , E = needles per inch2. Yarn count in dtex / Nm

3. Area of needles, e. g. automatic flat knitting machine: 1,30 m – 3,05 m

4. Number of systems, 1 – 6 systems, (6 systems = 12 cams)5. Speed of carriage, up to 1,30 m/s

Glove and toe sock machines have different parameters, which changedepending on gauge and size.

[E] 2 2,5 3 3,5 4 5 7 8 10 12 dtex 7500 6667 5556 5000 3848 2843 1623 1422 972 871 Nm 6x16/2 6x18/2 5x18/2 6x24/2 5x24/2 4x24/2 2x22/2 2x24/2 2x36/2 1x24/2 6x34/2 4x34/2 2x28/2 2x34/2 1x24/2 2x44/2 [E] 14 16 18 20 dtex 607 373 318 250 Nm 1x28/2 1x48/2 1x54/2 1x80/2 2x40/1 1x54/2 1x60/2

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Yarn Count vs. Machine Gauge

0

1000

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

7000

8000

9000

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

1,14 g/ccmPolyamide

1,17 g/ccmPolyacryl

1,36 g/ccmPolyester

1,32 g/ccmWool

1,52 g/ccmCotton

gauge

dtexNm

6x 16/2

6x 24/2

2x 28/228/2

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Cellulosics 27%

PES 27%

PA 15%

Acryl 23%

Other Synthetics

WO1,4%

CO31%

Cellulosics4,6%

Acryl 2,5%

PA 5 %

PES48%

Others

PP 7,6 %

References: C. Edward Hayes:Textile Market Research NY/USA; IVC, Frankfurt/Germany; Fiber Organon, Arlington, VA/USAIn: Man-Made Fiber Year Book 2011 p. 4-12

Fibre Production - Faser ProduktionWorld Germany

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Technical

Apparel

Home + Carpet

Classification of Textile Application –Anwendungen textiler Produkte

World Germany

Home + Carpet

Apparel

Technical

References: C. Edward Hayes:Textile Market Research NY/USA; IVC, Frankfurt/Germany; Fiber Organon, Arlington, VA/USAIn: Man-Made Fiber Year Book 2011 p. 4-12

55 %

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Patterns of flat knitting

1. Cuff, border structures, starts

2. Cam setting only

- structural elements - stitch/ tuck/ float, e. g. (double) full cardigan, (double) half cardigan, knob, roll welt, Jacquards

3. Transfer/increase of stitches or tucks

e. g. Petinet, à jour, pelerine, Jacquards

4. Yarn carrier technology

- Stripes (colour change), striper technology

- Plating, intarsia, pile fabric or plush, weft

5. Needle bed racking

- Racking without transfer (stitch, tuck), e. g. racked welt,racked cardigan every (2nd) course

- Racking with transfer (stitch, tuck), e. g. Aran, cable stitch

6. Needle hook size and machine gauge, e. g. Multigauge®

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Starts

1. Without start, only pattern design

2. 1 x 1 (half racked)

3. 2 x 1 (without racking)

4. 2 x 2 (half racked)

5. Tubular (without racking)

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Starts

6. Start with pick-up (reed) 7. Start with no pick-up (holding down sinker )

source: Stoll M1 Plus

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Production technologies of flat knitting

1. Conventional knitting (26 steps)

- Front and back knitting, steaming, separating, cutting (8)

- Sleeves knitting, steaming, separating, cutting (8)

- Collar knitting, steaming, separating (3)

- shoulder seams, sleeves linking, side seams, collar linking,neatening of yarns, labelling, final inspection (7)

2. Fully Fashion (22 steps)

Cutting is not necessary

3. Integral knitting of whole garments (4 steps)

Whole garment knitting, neatening of yarns, labelling, steaming, final inspection

4. Gloves and toe socks

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Colour Jacquard

Front Backing

source: Stoll M1 Plus

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Double Face

Colour Jacquard backings

Horizontal stripe backing

Birds eye backing

Vertical stripe backing

Ladder backing

Single Face

Float backing

2-Colour 3-Colour 4-Colour etc

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Ladder full

Ladder 1 x 1

2-Colour Jacquard ladder backings

source: Stoll M1 Plus

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Ladder 1 x 2

Ladder 1 x 3

2-Colour Jacquard ladder backings

source: Stoll M1 Plus