Measuring Ocean Waves

Goes with Activity: Measuring Ocean Waves

Terms to know:

• Wave height: vertical distance from lowest (trough) part of wave to highest (crest) part of wave.• Amplitude: height of crest above still water level (1/2 wave height)• Wavelength: horizontal distance between two crests• Period: time between two adjacent crests

Diagram to show terms:

Diagram of wave properties

Speed of wave Equation

(T) period

(L) wavelength (C) speed Wave

Wave Steepness

)( wavelength

)(height wave steepness Wave

L

H

Deep Water depth = Wavelength/2

Deep water wave equations

• Wavelength (L) = 1.56 x wave period (T) squared

• Wave speed (C) = 1.56 x wave period (T) (m/s)

• Wave speed (C) = Wavelength (L)/Wave period (T)

Shallow water depth = wavelength/20

Shallow water wave equations

• Wave speed (C) = 3.13 x • Wave speed (C) = 3.13 x Depth of ocean (D)

• Wave speed (C) = Wavelength (L) / Wave period (T) • )

Question 6: Measuring Waves

Question 7: Measuring Waves