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ATLANTIC OCEAN

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

MAURITANIA

ALGERIA

SPAIN

CANARY ISLANDS

Saïdia

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Tangier

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EditorialAn unusual history A walk around town Atlantic or Mediterranean? An artists’ haven In the footsteps of the great travellers The Tangier experience Tangier in a new light Along the Atlantic coastline The Mediterranean and the foothills of the Rif Information and useful addresses

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Tangier’s Kasbah

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Editorial

Tangier, city of inspiration

Just a few kilometres from Spain, set between mountain and sea, a miniature paradise awaits the traveller, a shimmering white city framed by the brilliant blue of the skies above, the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean, and the blue-green of the Mediterranean. At the crossroads of seas and continents, where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic and Europe meets Africa, stands the city of Tangier, its face turned resolutely towards the sea. There is something altogether unique about the town, something impalpable, indefinable – a sense of freedom that hangs in the air like the scent of orange blossom.

Henri Matisse called Tangier “the painter’s paradise”, and when Eugène Delacroix first experienced the city, he exclaimed, “I’ve just been looking round the town, and at the moment feel like a man caught up in a dream, seeing things he is afraid will finally escape him”. Paul Bowles referred to it as a “dream city”, and no visit will deny that it only takes a few hours’ acquaintance with the place to fall helplessly under its spell.

The city has worked its magic on so many over the centuries, drawing artists and intellectuals, conquerors and beatniks, millionaires and eccentrics. This is the city that invented globalisation! Tangier is above all an atmosphere, and when you leave it, you have to wonder if it was all just a dream.

The Palais des Hôtes

Tangier bay

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An unusual history

A street in the kasbah

A sketch of Tingi, American Legation Museum

as Tangier was doing a good deal of trade with such major centres as Marseilles, Genoa, Venice and Barcelona. The city fell into Portuguese hands in 1471, only to be acquired by the English in 1661 as part of the dowry at the marriage of Charles II with Catherine of Braganza. The Alaouite dynasty won back Tangier in 1684 during the reign of Moulay Ismaël.

In the 19th century, European nations began sending increasing numbers of trading and diplomatic missions to Tangier, and in 1906 the Algeceras Conference provided for the city to be accorded special status. In 1925 it became an international zone under the sovereignty of the Sultan of Morocco. The period during which it enjoyed international status was Tangier’s golden age – the era of its great cultural and economic influence, and during which it gained the “romantic” reputation exploited by filmmakers and novelists.

There are signs of an ancient Phoenician settlement in the area – a few scant ruins, including a pair of necropolises, still remain – but the city itself was founded by the Carthaginians in the 4th century BC, as the trading-post of Tingi. In 146 BC, following the fall of Carthage, the town, now known as Tingis, became part of the Kingdom of Mauritania, which was allied to Rome and ruled by Juba II. Under Emperor Claudius, the kingdom became a Roman colony, Tingitan Mauritania, with Tingis as its capital. When the Arabs arrived in 706 AD, the city was taken by their general, Omeyyade Moussa Ibn Noussair, and it was from Tingis that Tarik Ibn Ziad’s army set off to conquer Spain in 711.

In the centuries that followed, Tangier became a coveted prize in the power struggles between the Idrissids and Umayyads of Spain, and then between the Almoravids, Almohads and Merinids – a prize that Portugal also had its eye on,

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A new wind is blowing here, though, with the recently opened Tangier-Med port linking the Kingdom’s motorways with the seaway of the Straits – a second golden age is about to begin!

It was also in Tangier, in the Mendoubia Park, that King Mohammed V delivered his 1947 speech declaring Moroccan Independence. Tangier was to keep its special status until 1960. Today, the city still has its cosmopolitan side, with a wide variety of outside influences contributing to its cultural diversity and unique personality.

Looking out over Tangier’s medina

The Kasbah’s Museum of Archaeology

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A walk around town

Entrance to the medina

Plaza de Toros

giant cannons. Down below, the fishing port is the scene of non-stop activity, orchestrated by the cries of the seagulls wheeling above.

The Kasbah is Tangier’s heart and soul, an imposing fortress with walls overlooking the medina and the whole city. You get to it from the Grand Socco via rue d’Italie and uphill along rue de la Kasbah. This is a district of venerable palaces, accommodating some truly superb residences. In Place de la Kasbah, the Sultan’s palace, “Dar el Mekhzen”, houses a museum of Moroccan arts, while the palace next door, Dar Chorfa, is home to a museum of antiquities and archaeology. Stop for a coffee at the Café du Détroit, which takes its name from the magnificent views of the Straits to be taken from its terrace.

The Grand Socco (Spanish for souk) at the entrance to the medina is undoubtedly the busiest part of the city. Its square is bordered by the former residence of the Mendoub (the Sultan’s representative) and its park. The Mendoubia Park is splendidly laid out, dominated by a giant banyan tree, and graced with a multitude of venerable dragon trees.

The Rue des Siaghines (“jewellers’ street”) leads to the Petit Socco, a picturesque little square surrounded by hotels and cafes that served as second homes to the city’s celebrities – Paul Bowles, Jean Genet, Paul Morand, Pasolini, and Camille Saint-Saëns among them. Leaving the Petit Socco, rue de la Marine takes you to Bab el Bahr (“the door to the sea”), guarded by a pair of borjs (fortified towers), one of which, Borj el Mosra, is decked with

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Arabo-Andalusian architecture

The Cervantes Theatre

ships navigating the Straits – earning the square its nickname of “Sour Al Maâgazine”, which roughly translates as “wall of indolence”. From there, rue Anoual takes you down to the astonishing Art Deco edifice of the Gran Teatro Cervantes. The theatre first opened its doors in 1913, and was the largest of its day in North Africa, boasting 1400 seats and equipped with cutting-edge stage machinery. Its boards have been walked by countless great performers, Lola Flores for one.

Boulevard Pasteur is the new town’s main thoroughfare, and in the holiday season can be found teeming with locals and visitors alike, taking a leisurely stroll in the sultry evening air. It leads to Place Faro, a vast terrace protected by antique cannons and affording magnificent panoramic views of the port, the bay, and the distant Spanish coastline. Locals spend hours on end there, contemplating the sea glittering in the sunlight and the graceful ballet of the

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Atlantic or Mediterranean?

Café Hafa

Malabata Castle

over to cruise-ship and yachting activities, following transfer of its passenger and merchant traffic to the new Tangier-Med port (45 km west of Tangier). Four focuses of activity are on the drawing board: cruise ships, fishing, the southern Spain/tour of Morocco , and yachting and accompanying events. Yachting activities are managed by the Tangier Royal Yacht Club.

Between two seas Twin capes symbolise entry into the city of Tangier: Cape Spartel on the Atlantic side and Cape Malabata on the Mediterranean. Cape Malabata, facing east towards the rising sun, is planted with pines and low trees and affords a 180° view over the Straits of Gibraltar – visit it in the morning, when the light is at its best. A little further on, you come to that decidedly strange edifice, Malabata castle, which, despite its medieval-style architecture, was actually built in the early 20th century. Cape Spartel is topped by a lighthouse put up in 1965, and is the perfect spot from which to experience the sun setting over the ocean. On the way there, it’s well worth taking the time to stop off at the Perdicaris belvedere.

Whatever you do, don’t miss out on a visit to Café Hafa for a refreshing glass of mint tea. The cafe enjoys a unique location, clinging to the cliffside in the shade of gardens and terraces and with panoramic views of the Mediterranean on the right, the Atlantic on the left, and the Andalusian coastline across the Straits. It first opened its doors in 1920, and has since been frequented by such famous names as Paul Bowles, the Rolling Stones and Randy Weston. Legend has it that the Beatles, Bob Marley and Sean Connery have all savoured a glass or two of mint tea there, along with the breath-taking view.

Tangier Port Strategically located between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, Tangier is the Kingdom’s main Mediterranean commercial port, its busiest passenger port, and is also equipped with a yachting harbour. The many passenger shuttles between Europe and Morocco, along with great bulk carriers, trawlers, small fishing boats, and sailing yachts, all make use of the same channel of entry. A two-stage project is in the pipeline for turning Tangier’s port entirely

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Cap Spartel

The Caves of Hercules: Light from the AtlanticLocated on the Cape Spartel massif off the Atlantic coast, the Caves of Hercules are natural limestone formations, their damp and sombre interiors lit by a single passageway giving on to the ocean, the entrance to which bears an extraordinary resemblance to an outline map of the African continent. The caves are Tangier’s most popular tourist attraction, a truly out-of-the ordinary experience on account of their beauty, major archaeological interest, and mythological significance. According to the Ancient Greeks, it was here that Hercules came to rest after completing his 12 labours. The legend states that it was the demigod himself who created the Straits of Gibraltar, parting the mountains and bringing Jbel Tarik (Gibraltar) into being on one side and Jbel Moussa on the other. Myth is only a step away from reality...

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An artists’ haven

The bell tower of Tan-gier’s church

Tangier, city of inspiration

into legend – the El Minzah Hotel, the Continental Hotel, Café de Paris and Café Fuentès, to name but a few! But the city does not simply live on its past. While the ghosts of Eugène Delacroix, Henri Matisse, Oscar Wilde, William Burroughs and Tennessee Williams may still walk its street, it continues to attract and inspire creators from all corners of the world.

A tour of the artsThe streets of Tangier are teeming with artistic and literary memories. Countless painters, novelists, playwrights, poets, photographers, actors, filmmakers and couturiers from every nation under the sun have stayed here a while or made their home here, inspired and bewitched by the city’s magic. All of them have left their imprint, and many Tangier institutions have entered

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“Jewish Wedding” by Eugène Delacroix

Tangier through Matisse’s eyes

whose tomb overlooking the Straits bears the Arabic inscription, “He loved Morocco”.

A city that has caused much ink to flow The legendary bookshop “Librairie des Colonnes” was where the city’s intellectuals – such great literary names as Jean Genet, Paul Bowles, William Burroughs and Tennessee Williams – came to hone their craft. Some never left Tangier. If you’re passing through, take a look inside and browse through the works of some of the writers who fell under the city’s irresistible spell.

City of painters In speaking of Tangier, we cannot, of course, omit to mention the French painter Eugène Delacroix, who stayed there and said of the city, “There is matter for paintings to be found at every street corner”. Today, an art gallery bearing his name, located in rue de la Liberté, exhibits works by Moroccan and foreign painters. Following Delacroix’s first encounter with Tangier, the city’s colours and intense light became something of an obsession among his fellow painters, who came in droves to set up their easels there, enthralled by the works he brought back from his visit – Matisse, for one, Torres, and Mcbey, who could not tear himself away, and

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Tangier bay

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In the footsteps of the great travellers

Ibn Battouta

American Legation

in the Fuente Nueva district. The celebrated traveller, pilgrim, explorer and ambassador, an indefatigable scholar open to the world at large, was born in Tangier in 1304, and set off to make the pilgrimage to Mecca as an inexperienced young man of 22. The journey was to mark the beginning of one of the most extraordinary adventures of all time!

Ibn Battouta is often compared to the somewhat better known Marco Polo. They were, however, men of very different character. While Marco Polo and his brothers set out to explore unknown lands for commercial reasons, Ibn Battouta travelled in search of knowledge – which didn’t stop him from covering a considerably greater distance than his illustrious predecessor!.

The American Legation In 1777, Morocco became the first country to officially recognise the United States of America as an independent nation. In 1821, in order to seal this new found friendship, the Sultan, Moulay Slimane, gifted the legation to the American diplomatic mission, and it remains the only monument belonging to the United States outside their national territory. The vast residence was built in the 18th century, restored in 1920, and turned into a museum in 1956, conserving a varied collection of works tracing Tangier’s history from the 17th to the 20th century.

Ibn BattoutaWhile in Tangier, don’t forget to pay a visit to the grave of the city’s most emblematic son. Ibn Battouta’s tomb is to be found high up in the medina, in a little street

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Inside the museum

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The Tangier experience

On location in Tangier

The Mediterranean Nights Festival

a musical past littered with rock greats from the beat generation to the Rolling Stones – not forgetting Randy Weston, the illustrious jazz master who continues to visit and draw inspiration from the city.

Mediterranean Nights The Mediterranean Nights Festival is held in the Mendoubia Park in the heart of the old town and is a week-long celebration of the ancient and modern musical heritages of three continents. It’s an ideal opportunity to discover upcoming young artists, and to get to see a variety of great names rarely to be found performing on the World’s usual tour

The city’s many hotels; restaurants and pianos bars provide a wide variety of nightlife in a range of relaxing and elegant settings.

From jazz to theatre via the cinema Depuis 2000, le festival de jazz Since the year 2000, Tangier’s annual jazz festival, Tanjazz, has been bringing together top names from throughout the world, with the superbly restored Palais Moulay Hafid des Institutions Italiennes as a venue. Jazz and more jazz is on the agenda, along with a richly diverse programme of artistic activities and intellectual encounters. With Tanjazz, Tangier has revived

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The Tanjazz Festival

share their experiences. The Tanja Latina Festival First held in 2008, the festival is entirely devoted to Latin music. Take to the floor to the sound of sambas, rumbas, salsas, and batucadas performed by top names from the world of Latin music.

The Tangier International Amateur Theatre Festival The festival is held every May under the honorary presidency of Pierre Bergé, arts patron and man of the theatre. Prizes are awarded by category (shows, actors, stage sets, and direction) by an international jury. The event also provides an opportunity for actors to meet their fans and for theatre companies from different countries to

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Tangier in a new light

Horse riding along

the seashore

Tangier golf club

very considerable dexterity, but the rewards make it all worth it – the white city of Tangier’s rooftops glinting in the sunlight as far as the eye can see. This is a course where experienced players can really try out their skills and where beginners can discover the joys of the game without frustration.

Tangier can also take pride in its cricket club, fruit of its bygone English heritage and a venue for matches between international teams.

An “oh so British!” heritage The first in a long tradition, Tangier’s Royal Golf Club was designed by Cotton and Pennink in 1914. His Majesty King Hassan II brought it up to date, but took care to preserve its natural, open, and spontaneous character. Typically British in design, the course runs between hills and valleys, with long narrow, slightly curved fairways, its 18 holes undulating among cypress, pines, firs, and eucalyptus. The par-4 fifth hole requires careful concentration and

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Tangier’s beaches are ideal for a wide range of water sports

holidaymakers. Alongside all this, of course, a full selection of classic sports is on offer, including tennis, horse riding, archery, and clay-pigeon shooting. A project is currently in the pipeline for transforming Tangier’s port into a cruise-ship and yachting harbour.

On the crest of a wave! In Tangier, the sea is at your service, with diving, windsurfing, jet-skiing, surfboarding and a range of other water sports all on the bill of fare, while the city’s yacht club provides pleasant surroundings and top-quality facilities for sailing enthusiasts. And, more recently, an aquatic theme park has opened to cater for younger

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Along the Atlantic coastline

The town of Larache

The Lixus archaeological site

The Azure Lixus resort, currently under construction, is designed as a destination for nature lovers and sailing and water-sports enthusiasts. The resort will include two 18-hole golf courses, a yachting harbour, shops and a forest park., and will also offer a range of activities connected with its hinterland (hunting, horse-riding and excursions). Focusing on “well-being, health and nature”, Lixus has selected a magnificent natural setting between the Punta Negra cliff, the Reggada hills, Oued Loukkos, and the Ras Armel forest, a profusion of pine trees, broom trees, dwarf palms and eucalyptus.

Larache Located 90 km south of Tangier, Larache lies at the mouth of Oued Loukkos. The Kasbah, with its winding archwayed streets, was built in 1491, and was once a pirate stronghold. The town centre features some fine examples of Andalusian architecture, and Jean Genet’s grave can be visited in the Spanish cemetery at the end of the corniche. The pinewood that begins just 500 metres from the central square stretches for kilometres along the ocean shoreline.

Near Larache, the ruins of the Carthaginian and Roman port of Lixus stand on the opposite bank of Oued Loukkos.

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The Portuguese bastion, Asilah

A street in Asilah

concerts. A strategically located port, Asilah has passed through Roman, Spanish and Portuguese hands, and its bastions, towers and defiant walls make for some pleasant walks along a shoreline dotted with restaurants serving excellent cuisine based on fresh local fish.

AsilahAsilah has a charm all of its own, its white houses with their touches of brilliant blue and subtle green distinguishing it from other towns in the region. Music fills its streets, paintings bring its medina walls to vibrant life, and, every summer, its International Cultural Festival provides a rich programme of theatre, dance, and

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The Mediterranean and the foothills of the Rif

Riffi women

Creeks along the Mediterranean coast

The first foothills of the Rif Mountains Turning inland, we come to the Rif, a young chain of Mountains and ideal ground for trekking and hiking enthusiasts. Talassemtane Park in the Chefchaouen region covers over 60,000 hectares of magnificent mountain massifs and plunging cliffs. The park is home to a wide selection of fauna, including wild boar, foxes, monkeys, Bonelli’s eagles, booted eagles, long-legged buzzards, and falcons. Opening on to these rugged and austere mountains, the town of Chefchaouen is a haven of well-being, a remaining fragment of old Andalusia. Its winding streets, medieval houses painted with blue-tinted whitewash and its fine old kasbah make it a favourite destination for artists, and indeed for all those who simply want to sit back and dream the day away.

The Mediterranean coast:Ksar Sghir Located on the right bank of the mouth of the Ksar Sghir river, on the Mediterranean coast, the town dates back to around 100 BC, as we know from the remains of an ancient fish-salting manufactory on the site. In 1458, Ksar Sghir was taken by the Portuguese, who remained in occupation until the early 17th century. Their departure was a cause for celebration among Arabs expelled from Andalusia, who were then free to come and make their homes there. These days, its main interest in the eyes of many tourists lies in the charm of its architecture, testimony to a bygone age, and the beauty of the creeks nearby.

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The foothills of the Rif Mountains

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Information and useful addresses

Entry formalitiesA valid passport for a stay of less than 90 days is required. An identity card may suffice, depending on country of origin, if the trip is organised by a travel agency for a group of over 3 people. A visa is required for some nationalities – enquire at a Moroccan consulate or diplomatic representation in your country. No specific vaccinations are required for entry into the Kingdom of Morocco. If you are bringing your pet along with you, however, you will need to be able to produce an anti-rabies certificate less than 6 months old.

Changing moneyMoroccan currency is the dirham, made up of 100 centimes. Foreign currency must be exchanged at banks or other accredited establishments.

Time zone Morocco is in the Greenwich time zone, and time is G.M.T.

Emergency phone numbers : Police 19Fire Brigade 150Directory enquiries 160Road safety services 177

Practical information

Regional Tourist Office :29, boulevard Pasteur Tel: 05 39 94 86 69/ 94 80 50 Fax: 05 39 94 86 61

Regional Tourism Council :139, avenue Beethoven, immeuble Hamza, appt 16 Tel: 05 39 94 18 37 Fax: 05 39 94 53 48

ONCF Railway station : MalabataCall centre: 08 90 20 30 40 Website: www.oncf.ma

Ibn Batouta Airport : Call center : 08 90 00 08 00 Golf : Royal golf de Tangierwww.golfdumaroc.com

Weather Forecast :www.meteoma.net

Office des Changes (Currency Regulator Authority):www.oc.gov.ma

: Women Creators Festival, Asilah: National Diplomatic Corps Rally: International Books and Arts Fair: Tanjazz Festival : Mediterranean Nights Festival : International Meeting, Tangier : Asilah International Cultural Festival : Tanja Latina

Event Calendar MarchMarchAprilJuneJuneJulyAugustNovember

Useful addresses and contacts

For further information: www.visitmorocco.com Photo credits: ONMT, Cécile Tréal & Jean-Michel Ruiz

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www.visitmorocco.com

Moroccan National Tourist Office